The Hudson's Bay Boys


The Hudson's Bay Boys

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The Canadian Arctic. Wild, majestic and alluring.

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For 300 years, it drew thousands of Scots to work for the Hudson's Bay Company,

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trading with the native Inuit across the frozen planes.

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Working on a dairy farm in Dumfriesshire, it seemed quite exotic and quite exciting.

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The Hudson's Bay Boys fell in love with the land and its people.

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I've just enjoyed every single minute that I've lived in this beautiful community,

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in this beautiful land.

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But were shaken to the core when the Inuit survival was threatened.

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What it did was destroy a way of life, really, just basically overnight.

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Totally unfair, and really made me extremely angry.

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The Bay Boys lived thousands of miles apart,

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spread across this vast territory.

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Now, they are coming together.

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This has been absolutely a trip of a lifetime.

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They changed the Arctic.

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As a Scot, I felt very privileged to be part of the team that developed the government.

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-And the Arctic changed them.

-When I left, I felt a loss.

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When I came back, I found...

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I found it again.

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The Inuit have survived in the Arctic for 1,000 years.

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Nomads hunting for food in the harshest conditions.

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And for the furs they trap, they found a willing buyer.

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The Hudson's Bay Company.

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Set up in 1670, it recruited young men in search of adventure.

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Thousands of Scots took up the challenge,

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and by the 20th century, they made up half the workforce.

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I saw an advert in the Scotsman newspaper,

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and it said, come north, young man, to the Hudson's Bay Company.

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We left Scotland and I didn't really know what to expect.

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It was an adventure.

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The thing that used to blow me away was I would suddenly look up

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and look around, look at these mountains over here, and it would

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just suddenly hit me like a ton of bricks, my God, I live in the Arctic!

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I'm in the Canadian Arctic. I couldn't believe it.

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Donald Manns was posted to Pangnirtung,

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which lies at the edge of the frozen Arctic Circle.

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Other Hudson's Bay outposts were

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scattered across Canada, so the Bay Boys rarely saw each other.

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Now, four Scottish Bay Boys are coming from across Canada

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for a unique reunion.

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We're going to pick up the Bay guys at the airport,

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and try and get the pipes tuned in.

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I broke my chance just before they are coming in,

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so I have got my old chanter that sounds dreadful,

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so it's a bit of a panic.

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PIPES PLAY

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I'm among the last Bay Boys that came across, so this is

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really quite something, all these guys to come together with the tradition

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that goes from 1600s onwards of Scots coming into the Arctic

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and coming to the Hudson's Bay from many different parts of Scotland.

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The recruitment from Scotland stopped in the 1980s.

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These are the last of the Scottish Bay Boys.

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This is one of the last chances for an event like this to happen,

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because none of us are getting any younger.

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-Hello. How are you doing?

-Hello, Johnny boy. How are you doing?

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Beautiful, beautiful.

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I haven't seen this fella since 1966.

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-When he stepped off the plane, Cambridge Bay.

-June 13.

-Wearing a violet shirt.

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It was my first posting. It's 44 years ago, almost to the day.

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I was here, and it's 42 years since I left, so it's quite an occasion.

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We had a bit of catching up to do.

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In the 1900s, modern life caught up with the Inuit.

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By the '60s, they abandoned their nomadic existence

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and formed communities around Hudson's Bay posts.

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Every outpost had a general store, from which a Hudson's Bay Boy

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traded basic supplies for furs brought in by Inuit hunters.

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They established that a little outpost,

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so you can get the basics, sugar, tea, flour.

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-Tobacco.

-They had posts in different places.

-That's right.

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-They had so many of them.

-Perry River, Cape Parry.

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These were all small outpost camps.

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Hudson Bay stores, that one guy would be there.

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He would have no electricity, no running water, etc, etc.

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I mean, some guys would wait six months before they would get mail!

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I remember the big shortwave radio sitting in the corner

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of Bob's office, and there was always stories about the boys who'd

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speak Gaelic back and forth.

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I always thought it was fantastic, just fascinating.

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Usually the store would be a store and a little staff house combined, right?

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-And that was it. You would listen to the radio.

-Shortwave radio.

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Shortwave radio them big bush radios and you would read.

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Charles Dickens, Christmas Carol, A Tale Of Two Cities, you know,

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any of that. Any of that kind of stuff.

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-And you knew it from back to front because you read it.

-Read it twice.

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For the Scottish Bay Boys, the Arctic offered a new start.

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I came across here not long after my father died,

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and you're a young guy, 20-years-old,

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you don't really understand the emotions at running inside you.

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And you go a bit wild, you know?

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And I came north here and grew up, actually matured, grew up

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and got a chance to grow up away from home, in a different situation.

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We were given responsibilities,

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we were put in charge at the age of 20 of a 1.5 million store.

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I think the Hudson's Bay Company in some ways saved my life.

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And through the company, soon after arriving, he met a local Inuit girl.

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Donald married Meeka in 1983.

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I'm preparing a big meal for the Hudson Bay Boys.

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I cooked some caribou, some fish, some halibut, some ribs and haggis.

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And my sister has cooked some rabbit and Arctic hare.

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It's all different.

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There's Yorkshire pudding, so it's all different kinds.

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I'd just like to thank everybody for coming along.

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It's a wee celebratory feast.

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We have about every single Arctic animal,

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including the wild haggis,

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that also grazes the plains of Pangnirtung.

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And as my mother used to say, "Stick in till you stick oot."

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THEY LAUGH

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Come on, you must know Address To A Haggis.

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Far fa' ye...

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Far fa' your honest, sonsie face, Great chieftain o' the puddin' race.

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Aboon them a' ye tak your place, Painch, trip or thairm,

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Weel are ye wordy of a grace, As lang's my arm.

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APPLAUSE

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Your hurdies like a distant hill, Your pin wad help to mend a mill

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In time o' need,

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While thro' your pores the dews distil

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Like amber bead.

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His knife...

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-Oh, shut up!

-LAUGHING

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The temperatures have plummeted overnight.

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It's minus 20 and visibility is poor.

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Pretty white out there.

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But it should burn off...

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I hope.

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The Bay Boys are braving the extreme conditions to go on

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one last hunting trip together.

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They plan to camp out overnight

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and travel to the frozen water's edge to hunt seal.

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Donald and his Inuk brother-in-law, Noah, a local hunter,

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will guide the Bay Boys.

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The last time that I went sealing on the frozen sea ice

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was a long time ago.

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It would be really nice to get one today.

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But we don't know what it's going to be like until we get down there.

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Like Donald, Bay Boy John Graham made his home in the Arctic.

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Leaving the family farm in Selkirk in 1976,

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he was posted to Iqaluit, where he met his Inuk wife, Eva.

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They're asking for Elizabeth.

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Yeah, they already selected who's supposed to skin them.

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The seal is at the heart of the Inuit way of life.

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And every year, the community holds a festival to celebrate the animal.

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One, two... Move back!

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And the highly-prized skills of the hunters.

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Just about every house would have one of those wooden racks outside,

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with the sealskin pelts actually stretched out on them.

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The ladies would string them up on those wooden frames

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and basically get them prepared for bringing in to the store

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for selling to the Hudson's Bay Company.

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The fur trade, really, it was what the Hudson's Bay Company was all about.

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And absolutely hundreds of sealskins would be brought into the store

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here in Iqaluit.

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I was fortunate enough to be one of the few at Iqaluit,

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probably I was the last one trained

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actually in the process of grading the furs.

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So you take the seal, basically.

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I mean, these are beautiful examples of seals.

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You just loved when the hunters brought in this type of pelt here.

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It's got a beautiful finish to it,

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there's absolutely no grease or anything on the surface of the fur.

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When you look at these sealskins, one realises just how

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important that was to the local economy for the Inuit hunters.

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Because, you know, someone comes in at the end of the hunting season,

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it's an expensive business doing that in the Arctic.

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But these folks,

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these families relied on the tariff that we paid for these skins.

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That paid for their food and groceries for the winter.

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On the hunting trip, the Bay Boys

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have been travelling for an hour,

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with the wind chill taking temperatures down

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to a biting minus 40.

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They're setting up base camp 40 miles from the water's edge.

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I'll have to eat my piece.

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That would be nice!

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That place was so cold, the margarine on the toast froze.

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LAUGHING

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This is exhilarating.

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This morning has been exciting. It feels good.

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64 years old, you know, getting on in life.

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Got to watch your step, your old ticker.

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It's... Who wouldn't, right?

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Good company, beautiful scenery and here we are pitching a tent

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so we can have a cup of tea.

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I'm going to follow the rest of the guys

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and leave here because I haven't a clue what I'm doing.

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There's a job for a tall man.

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This is the old Red Duster, as some used to call it.

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This was the Hudson Bay flag.

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So we thought it appropriate to bring it along on this trip here.

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The last time we put a flag up

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was in 1966 in Mount Pelly, Cambridge Bay.

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I used that pillowcase and I wrote "Scotland forever".

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There was me, you and Dave Dickson from Tighnabruich.

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So here we are again, 2011. 40-plus years later.

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-It was probably taken off somebody's bed.

-It was my bed!

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-Blowing like a bugger, it was.

-It was. It was blowing.

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The oldest of the group, Jim Deyell,

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was posted to the remote island community of Sanikiluaq in 1968.

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Jim spent two years on the island, and as a Bay Boy lifer,

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he continued to work for the Company across the Arctic

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until he retired to southern Canada.

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This is the Hudson's Bay Company Store, where I worked in 1968.

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Quite different from what it was then.

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Wow! Not much left of the old girl at all.

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Boy, oh boy!

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This is where we had the cash register.

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Everything was served from behind the counter.

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There was no such thing as self-service in those days.

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It was all here on the wall, lined up in some orderly manner.

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I remember I used to know pretty much where everything was by...

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I just had to turn and it was almost like a sequence of buying things.

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Certain customers would have a sequence of buying things.

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Some would come in and their highest priority was maybe flour and sugar,

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and others would come in and the first they wanted was cigarettes.

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So I got to a point where I would almost know where

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I was going to go next.

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When I first saw him, he was huge. Huge man!

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He had muscles and he had red hair and my first impression was,

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"Oh, my goodness, he's a monster!"

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But he was gentle, too.

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And I was... He was kidding a lot, too.

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So I liked him right away.

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What's all this fur on your head? You look like a bear!

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Like Dora, many people remember Jim.

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-What happened to your hair?

-Same thing to you!

-I know - I lost mine.

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Did you find yours?

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Stay away from me, you bad girl.

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People welcomed him as part of the community and their culture.

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And they automatically trust the person,

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cos they know the person is going to help one way or another.

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At the tender age of 19, Jim was relied on heavily by the community.

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As a Bay Boy, responsibilities included all that was required

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for this community, all the souls in it.

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That was clothing, that was food. All their needs for a year.

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And making sure you had it right.

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The medical work, the dental work, the midwifery...

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Looking after dogs, giving them rabies shots,

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all the extracurricular...

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There was a vast amount of stuff, frankly.

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In 1969, Jim featured in a German documentary.

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It shows how he and other Bay Boys took on

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the role of doctor in the community.

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These little lungs...

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She's not breathing too well.

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Let's see what these little lungs say.

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We'll have to get on to that nurse again.

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'What have you given her so far? Over.'

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Roger. So far I've given her ampicillin, 250mg.

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Intramuscular.

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What else can you advise me to give her?

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The poor little girl.

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This cursed weather, you know. Is it always like this?

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Every time we need a plane.

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When he couldn't deal with the situation himself,

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Jim would call out a plane to airlift the patient.

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Once, though, on the remote island, help was simply too far away.

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It was totally out of control. No book told me anything about this.

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I was told later that the only thing I could do was drill

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a hole in her head to relieve the pressure from the meningitis,

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the membrane of the brain that was swelling.

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I had no means to drill a hole in anyone's head

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and I don't think even then I would have attempted something like that.

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At the time, I wanted to do more. I just didn't know what I could do.

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I'd never seen a death like that - a person losing control

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of one bodily function after another in fairly rapid succession.

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I can see people looking at me yet, saying, "What are you going to do?"

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And there was nothing I could do.

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But Jim also played a part in bringing new life to Sanikiluaq

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when he delivered a baby boy.

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Jimmy is what's known as my saunik.

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The word saunik is an Inuit word and it literally means "from my bone".

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He's not my biological son,

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but he is essentially me, and I him.

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We haven't seen a whole lot of each other or kept in touch that much

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so I'm looking forward to seeing Jimmy.

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The biggest event in the Bay Boy calendar

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was the annual sealift where 95% of the post supplies for the year

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were landed and when all the skins bought over the previous year

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were shipped out.

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You've got the frozen Arctic Ocean.

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That is only open for three months of the year

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so that's a very narrow window

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in which to get all the goods and supplies here to the post

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so that you're all set up for the remainder of the year.

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You only have one chance to do that.

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The first sealift began in the late 17th century

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as the Hudson's Bay Company sought to exploit its trade with the Inuit.

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The sealift was the highlight of the year, really, for the company.

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We'd all be working together in great big chains moving the cases.

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A real sense of community involvement

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and that was necessary to get all the goods from the ship

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and into the warehouses.

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We have all these good memories with our elders

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and we talk about it quite often. It was a very exciting time because

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it was a time we saw different people.

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Cos we'd been seeing the same old people all winter long.

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The ship comes in and all these new people,

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they are shaking hands, and they're patting your head.

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And... Yeah, and they smell good. Because they wash. We didn't!

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Ann remembers helping out with the sealift as a child.

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Our payment was hard candy and hardtack biscuit, and tea.

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And that was very exciting and that was overwhelmingly good

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because we didn't get to have those treats.

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The new people, they have music, the squeezebox music,

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Scottish music and there'd be dances at night

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after we worked all day long.

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SCOTTISH FIDDLE MUSIC

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And this went on for all night long. Not just a few hours, all night.

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Jim and the other Bay Boys had a reputation

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throughout the Arctic for partying.

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And the Friday night dance was a fixture across the North.

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We were encouraged not to fraternise.

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I thought it was discriminatory, really.

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If you're told not to do a thing, what's the first thing you do? You do it, right? You know?

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I guess you'd put it, there was a lot of debauchery went on.

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-It was...

-Speak for yourself!

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But that was the way it was. You had this relationship

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with the community and, you know... Right?

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Am I right or what? Just ask any of these guys, they'll tell you.

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I would say, put us in the same category as Rasputin.

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LAUGHTER

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The mad monk from Russia.

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Overall, though, there was a moral code.

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Yeah, we got drunk and the ends got a little loose, you know.

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But overall, no.

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We hung out with the folks we worked with.

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And Inuit worked in the store, they were our friends.

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-I never thought of Inuit as any different than anybody else.

-No.

-No.

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That's the kind of way your thought processes when you're 18, I suppose.

0:27:210:27:26

That's why... Look, he's married an Inuit, he's married an Inuit. I was married to an Inuit.

0:27:260:27:30

Three out of five, right?

0:27:300:27:32

Four.

0:27:320:27:34

Four, sorry, my apologies. Four out of five, and it wasn't unusual.

0:27:340:27:37

We identified with the folks in the town,

0:27:370:27:40

more I think than anybody else.

0:27:400:27:42

I felt I was part of the community. I guess I've always felt that.

0:27:420:27:47

During his posting to Sanikiluaq, Jim became

0:27:520:27:55

so involved with the community he helped deliver a baby boy.

0:27:550:27:59

It's been 20 years since he last saw his Saunik and namesake, Jimmy.

0:28:040:28:09

(INAUDIBLE)

0:28:120:28:13

-It's all right, now.

-Thanks.

0:28:170:28:19

Annie. Come on, where's my hug?

0:28:190:28:23

-Good to see you again.

-You too.

0:28:270:28:29

-You got thin.

-Yep!

-Just like me!

0:28:290:28:33

I was taken into their family.

0:28:350:28:38

They gave me everything. They had little, very little really.

0:28:380:28:42

Poverty was really a way to describe Sanikiluaq in all forms.

0:28:420:28:48

But even then, that which they had they gave to me,

0:28:480:28:52

they shared with me, provided for me.

0:28:520:28:54

-Uh, my family's here.

-Hey!

0:28:540:28:58

Wow. That's your family? What happened? Where did we all come from?

0:28:590:29:04

I know this one!

0:29:040:29:05

-(INAUDIBLE)

-Hello.

-I won't remember all these names, of course.

0:29:070:29:13

And there is the family, eh? Who's this guy down here in the middle?

0:29:130:29:18

-Anybody you know?

-That's me!

-That's you, Jimmy.

0:29:180:29:22

-Grandmother.

-Grandmother herself. She was smoking a pipe there.

0:29:240:29:30

-It had that little thing.

-Lid.

-The lid, the metal lid.

0:29:300:29:34

Yeah, that's right.

0:29:340:29:36

You're my second mum. You're first mum, I think.

0:29:360:29:39

Back in the 1960s,

0:29:440:29:46

Jimmy's family made sure that Jim was looked after in his own home.

0:29:460:29:50

Big chimney on it, never was there before.

0:29:500:29:52

Go in. Go inside.

0:29:540:29:57

One of the sisters, Annie, became Jim's housemaid.

0:30:000:30:03

In you go.

0:30:030:30:04

Moves on and it changes, Annie, eh?

0:30:060:30:08

-All the houses and everything around us now, it's all different.

-Yeah.

0:30:080:30:12

Some nights I would just open the curtains

0:30:120:30:14

and I would sit and look at the stars and play my accordion.

0:30:140:30:18

Remember that? Maybe you don't.

0:30:180:30:21

Annie's mum saw that Jim missed his family in Shetland.

0:30:210:30:26

What your mother was to me was like a mother to me, really.

0:30:260:30:29

Because I sometimes thought that if I wasn't nicely dressed or clean

0:30:290:30:34

or looking good, then your mum would be upset.

0:30:340:30:38

She was like a mum.

0:30:380:30:39

-Thank you.

-She was like a mum.

0:30:390:30:43

Then you came along and this house was as clean as any house

0:30:430:30:45

I ever lived in.

0:30:450:30:47

Sometimes I tease my wife about that. She says, "Oh, really?"

0:30:470:30:50

Me?!

0:30:500:30:52

-Still after all these years.

-Still after all these years, I know.

0:30:560:31:01

And you've got more hair than me now! Even though it's white.

0:31:010:31:05

For Jim, being a young Hudson's Bay Boy was tough but unforgettable.

0:31:240:31:31

There was great stress in it.

0:31:350:31:36

At the time I didn't dwell on the stress

0:31:360:31:39

and maybe the reason I didn't dwell on the stress

0:31:390:31:42

is that the love that was reciprocated to me, that was...

0:31:420:31:47

I just felt part of their family.

0:31:470:31:50

The stress in that sense was eliminated.

0:31:500:31:53

It's when I left, you know...

0:31:530:31:55

When I left I was smoking 60 cigarettes a day

0:31:550:31:58

so there were signs obviously that things were heavy on me.

0:31:580:32:02

But it's when I left, I felt lost and when I came back, I found...

0:32:020:32:08

I found it again.

0:32:100:32:11

The Bay Boys are continuing their journey across the ice

0:32:230:32:27

to the open water.

0:32:270:32:28

Donald's Inuit brother-in-law must check the ice is solid.

0:32:300:32:34

If you walk about drive about down there...

0:32:380:32:42

We could lose a machine and lose people that way.

0:32:420:32:46

-if we don't check anything.

-I think that it's a mile thick!

0:32:460:32:49

LAUGHTER

0:32:490:32:50

They must travel 40 miles to the flow edge

0:32:550:32:59

where they're hoping to hunt for seal.

0:32:590:33:02

If it's really, really cold and you're seal hunting

0:33:130:33:17

in the middle of the winter, and somebody gets a seal

0:33:170:33:20

and you go over, you can feel the cold into the middle of you.

0:33:200:33:24

And then you have some raw seal meat.

0:33:240:33:27

It's just like a little furnace has gone off inside you.

0:33:270:33:30

My wife loves it when you come back with a nice, fresh seal

0:33:360:33:40

and she can share it with the family and she's proud of me

0:33:400:33:45

because I've been out hunting.

0:33:450:33:47

I mean, it's not... This isn't part of my culture

0:33:470:33:50

so you do what you can to fit in.

0:33:500:33:52

Meeka also introduce Donald to ice fishing,

0:33:590:34:03

the Inuit way of catching Arctic char.

0:34:030:34:06

When the sun comes and it gets warmer,

0:34:150:34:18

we just want to be up at the lake.

0:34:180:34:19

And the work gets in the way sometimes!

0:34:220:34:25

Ooh, that's one.

0:34:280:34:30

We usually go as a family, always going with my sister

0:34:320:34:36

and my brother's also going.

0:34:360:34:39

Yeah!

0:34:400:34:41

Just to be outside and have a family time.

0:34:430:34:47

Sit here in quiet place.

0:34:480:34:50

I'm just waiting for that catch!

0:34:540:34:57

For me it's not even about the fishing,

0:35:000:35:02

I just love being here with Meeka.

0:35:020:35:04

It's something we can do together, something that makes her happy, something she loves.

0:35:040:35:09

Whoo!

0:35:100:35:12

Donald and Meeka have three children and four grandchildren.

0:35:150:35:19

The family speak both Inuktitut, the Inuit language, and English.

0:35:200:35:26

For them all, they've benefited immensely from their Inuit heritage.

0:35:260:35:32

They're very much I think at home with who they are.

0:35:320:35:36

They have their Inuit background and their Scottish background,

0:35:360:35:41

and quite proud of both of them.

0:35:410:35:44

Lunchtime! Come and get them before they disappear in snow.

0:35:440:35:49

Want a bowl...?

0:35:530:35:55

It's very hot.

0:35:560:35:59

You know what, there's nothing better...

0:36:030:36:05

CONVIVIAL CHATTER

0:36:080:36:11

I think Inuit people are...

0:36:110:36:15

they're a stunningly attractive race,

0:36:150:36:19

they're beautiful people, with a unique culture

0:36:190:36:23

that they can be so proud of. And I'm so happy that my kids

0:36:230:36:27

have been able to, er...have that.

0:36:270:36:33

On the hunt, the Bay Boys have reached the open water.

0:36:460:36:49

It's absolutely spectacular.

0:36:510:36:53

It's hard to believe that we're standing here

0:36:530:36:56

on ice at the floe edge on Cumberland Sound.

0:36:560:37:00

I feel kind of blessed to be here, to tell you the honest truth about it all.

0:37:030:37:07

Just being here kind of makes this trip for me,

0:37:090:37:13

to be honest, it really does.

0:37:130:37:15

Never thought I'd see myself on the...

0:37:150:37:20

here at the floe edge on Cumberland Sound.

0:37:200:37:22

It's quite spectacular, and the ice floe's just gently moving.

0:37:230:37:30

The slushy surface, a kind of gelled water, that's in a semi-frozen state

0:37:310:37:38

is just moving gently past us,

0:37:380:37:41

and there's a lovely piece of clear water out there that we're

0:37:410:37:44

hoping we can see a seal's head pop up

0:37:440:37:47

and then we'll hopefully have something for supper tonight!

0:37:470:37:51

For centuries, Inuit hunted seal,

0:38:110:38:13

and the outside world found it acceptable.

0:38:130:38:16

Fur was a must-have fashion item in the '60s.

0:38:240:38:28

But taste changed.

0:38:310:38:33

In 1977, Brigitte Bardot staged a photo call on the Canadian ice,

0:38:370:38:42

to denounce the cruelty of killing baby seals for their fur.

0:38:420:38:46

Images of the seal cull on the east coast of Canada

0:38:490:38:52

highlighted the killing of seals for their fur across the world.

0:38:520:38:57

Across Europe, activists lobbied their governments to ban the trade in seal fur from Canada.

0:39:000:39:07

PROTESTERS SHOUT

0:39:100:39:12

I got a call from Bob Young, who was the manager at the time,

0:39:180:39:23

and he had a memo that had come in,

0:39:230:39:27

and he said the seal prices had changed.

0:39:270:39:30

And when I looked at the prices I was quite shocked.

0:39:300:39:34

We were told why it was happening, that there was a market collapse,

0:39:340:39:38

but the people here didn't understand that.

0:39:380:39:41

I mean, it was "What do you mean? You were paying 32 yesterday,

0:39:410:39:44

"and today you're telling me that the skin is worth 8?"

0:39:440:39:48

I mean, it was just a disaster.

0:39:480:39:50

And there was nothing one could do about it.

0:39:500:39:52

The fact that Inuit hunted adult seal for food and fur,

0:39:530:39:58

and killed just five per cent of the total cull,

0:39:580:40:01

did not protect them.

0:40:010:40:04

It was annoying,

0:40:040:40:06

to see Inuit lumped in in this suddenly fashionable thing,

0:40:060:40:11

and people making judgments on Inuit,

0:40:110:40:16

based on their own ignorance, on not understanding what the whole picture was.

0:40:160:40:21

Totally unfair. And really made me extremely angry.

0:40:210:40:25

What it did was destroy a way of life, really, basically overnight.

0:40:250:40:30

What it did was put people on welfare,

0:40:310:40:34

that's the bottom line of it.

0:40:340:40:35

They stayed here in town all the time.

0:40:420:40:46

A lot of impact on family, and suicide gone up, skyrocketed.

0:40:460:40:50

A lot of kids, young people, were killing themselves.

0:40:520:40:55

A lot. I mean, a lot.

0:40:550:40:58

And the Greenpeace didn't do nothing.

0:40:590:41:03

They wanted to save seals, that's it.

0:41:030:41:05

For the Inuit, it was a social catastrophe.

0:41:120:41:15

For the Bay Boys, it meant making a choice.

0:41:190:41:22

They chose to stay.

0:41:240:41:26

Neil Greig settled with his Inuit family in Kuujjuaq.

0:41:320:41:36

It's the largest settlement in Nunavik,

0:41:360:41:39

the Inuit region of northern Quebec.

0:41:390:41:42

The collapse of the fur trade hit this town pretty hard.

0:41:470:41:52

In this part of town

0:41:520:41:54

you'll certainly find a substantial amount of substance abuse,

0:41:540:41:58

alcohol, drug abuse,

0:41:580:42:00

which today has become a major problem for us in the community.

0:42:000:42:06

-This one is my daughter, Joanna...

-Hello.

0:42:150:42:19

This is my granddaughter, Leanna, from my older son.

0:42:190:42:22

Iko is Joanna's son - my grandson.

0:42:220:42:25

And then we have Robert, who is my son,

0:42:250:42:28

and he's holding onto Gabriel,

0:42:280:42:31

who is Joanna's adopted son.

0:42:310:42:34

And then we have, over in the far corner... ALL LAUGH

0:42:350:42:41

we have Simeone Greig, who is Joanna's son,

0:42:410:42:46

our grandson.

0:42:460:42:48

He's 15 now,

0:42:480:42:50

and Simeone was somewhat handicapped when he was born.

0:42:500:42:56

And he's lived with us off and on ever since then, so...

0:42:560:43:01

He's the one that's always laughing.

0:43:010:43:03

Simeone was brain damaged

0:43:070:43:08

when his mother was run over by a local drunk driver when she was pregnant.

0:43:080:43:13

It was horrific, it was, erm...difficult.

0:43:150:43:18

It's hard to put everything in words...

0:43:180:43:23

You know, we still get emotional when we talk about it,

0:43:230:43:26

we still get angry when we talk about it.

0:43:260:43:29

I mean, you've seen our grandson. He's happy.

0:43:310:43:34

For us, as long as HE'S happy, we're happy.

0:43:340:43:36

It was tough at the time, but you've got to move on.

0:43:360:43:38

You can't rest in the past, and live in the past.

0:43:380:43:43

After the accident,

0:43:510:43:53

Neil worked with the community to set up a treatment centre.

0:43:530:43:56

It's the first to use traditional culture to help the Inuit

0:44:010:44:05

overcome their addiction.

0:44:050:44:07

I'm here for the treatment, for healing.

0:44:130:44:15

Cos I had an alcohol and drugs problem,

0:44:150:44:19

and I couldn't handle it any more.

0:44:190:44:21

THEY CONVERSE IN OWN LANGUAGE

0:44:210:44:27

'When I got here, I started a programme,

0:44:280:44:31

'it changed me. Changed me a lot.'

0:44:310:44:34

I feel lighter.

0:44:350:44:38

It helps...

0:44:400:44:43

This treatment really helps.

0:44:430:44:46

Neil also saw that locals needed help

0:44:560:44:58

to preserve their traditional lifestyle.

0:44:580:45:01

We were scared that through the collapse of the fur trade,

0:45:030:45:06

we were going to lose all the traditions

0:45:060:45:08

and harvesting that people did in the past.

0:45:080:45:11

So we put in place the Hunter Support Programme,

0:45:110:45:14

and in essence it's to help those hunters

0:45:140:45:18

and trappers make a decent living,

0:45:180:45:21

and to ensure that the culture of that continues.

0:45:210:45:24

The Hunter Support Programme has enabled people like Thomas to learn the ancient skills.

0:45:360:45:42

Rock ptarmigan.

0:45:430:45:46

His first fox yesterday, and his first ptarmigan today.

0:45:460:45:50

Very good for the young people.

0:45:500:45:53

Tradition to keep our youngsters like this hunting. It's very good.

0:45:530:45:59

I used to drink a lot before, but now I don't. Now I live off the land.

0:46:120:46:18

And I am happy for that.

0:46:180:46:19

It's more fun hunting than drinking.

0:46:220:46:25

You can remember the next day.

0:46:270:46:30

Very good stuff when it's fresh.

0:46:340:46:38

We prefer to eat it like this all the time.

0:46:380:46:40

And this is our special dip...

0:46:440:46:47

..Beluga whale dipped in fat, or seal oil, whichever you prefer.

0:46:500:46:57

We ferment it, and then we use it as a dip.

0:46:580:47:01

And it's very good, we use it with all our food.

0:47:020:47:05

It's very important to keep our heritage,

0:47:070:47:10

to keep our young people learning, teaching them.

0:47:100:47:14

This is what we eat, this is who we are.

0:47:160:47:19

I don't think we're going to have much chance of a seal.

0:47:280:47:32

I think we should head for camp. What do you think, Noah, good idea?

0:47:320:47:37

Okey-doke. Let's get going.

0:47:370:47:40

We've fed our eyes if we haven't fed our bellies, eh?

0:47:400:47:42

Beautiful.

0:47:420:47:44

In sub-zero conditions, Inuit hunters often spend days waiting for a seal.

0:47:460:47:52

But with darkness approaching, the boys head back to base camp.

0:47:530:47:57

Like Neil, none of the other Bay Boys

0:48:390:48:42

thought the collapse of the seal fur trade was a reason to leave.

0:48:420:48:46

I never ever thought once about going back to Scotland, I don't think

0:48:470:48:51

that's the kind of folks that we are -

0:48:510:48:53

we got a mission, you got a job to do,

0:48:530:48:55

and you forge ahead and you get it done,

0:48:550:48:57

and you're not happy until it's, er...completed to the...you know,

0:48:570:49:01

highest standards or whatever.

0:49:010:49:03

I never thought about going anywhere else.

0:49:030:49:06

In fact, the fact that this happened maybe compelled me all the more to stay.

0:49:060:49:10

I mean, I still love Scotland dearly,

0:49:100:49:13

but this is my home here now,

0:49:130:49:17

and it's taken a long time to realise that.

0:49:170:49:21

But one day you wake up, and you go,

0:49:210:49:23

"Well, actually, things just don't get better than this. This is where it's at."

0:49:230:49:28

My wife said to me, part of me lives in the north,

0:49:280:49:31

part of me lives in the Shetlands, and she has the balance.

0:49:310:49:34

And that's the way it is.

0:49:340:49:36

For me, I'd been a big fish in a small pond.

0:49:360:49:41

And so with kind of an ego-driven guy like I am,

0:49:410:49:44

that was what really sort of got me engaged.

0:49:440:49:49

John Todd settled in Rankin Inlet,

0:49:530:49:56

after a nine-month stint with the Hudson's Bay Company.

0:49:560:49:59

From here, he joined forces with the Inuit

0:50:080:50:10

and set about building a business empire.

0:50:100:50:13

I am obsessed by trying to do the right thing,

0:50:230:50:28

trying to make sure that the folks that I've grown up with

0:50:280:50:31

get a fairer opportunity, you know, get some chances

0:50:310:50:35

of jobs and prosperity.

0:50:350:50:37

I mean, half the folks I grew up with lived in poverty.

0:50:370:50:41

John's entrepreneurial flair saw him grow into a millionaire.

0:50:440:50:48

And in the '90s, he became a key political figure.

0:50:530:50:56

I used to pinch myself every day,

0:50:570:50:59

thinking I've gone from a Bay Boy making 146.26 a month

0:50:590:51:04

to the number two guy in the territory as the finance minister.

0:51:040:51:08

For some reason I'm nervous.

0:51:090:51:11

Mr Speaker, today it's my pleasure to present the first budget

0:51:110:51:15

of the legislative assembly of the Northwest Territories.

0:51:150:51:18

'As a Scot, I felt then as I feel now,

0:51:180:51:20

'very privileged to be part of the team

0:51:200:51:22

'that developed the Nunavut government,

0:51:220:51:25

'which was a major constitutional change in Canada

0:51:250:51:29

'that really put the Inuits' future in the hands of Inuits,

0:51:290:51:34

'because you have a government that is now run and controlled

0:51:340:51:39

'by the folks that live in the country

0:51:390:51:41

'and that are basically the custodians of the Arctic.'

0:51:410:51:44

Now John is turning his attention to mining,

0:51:470:51:49

which he believes is the key to the future prosperity of the Inuit.

0:51:490:51:53

Here we are with a real,

0:51:560:51:58

once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to create some jobs,

0:51:580:52:02

give the kids some opportunity, and I think that it'll only come by once.

0:52:020:52:08

-Hello.

-Hello. Welcome to Meliadine.

0:52:150:52:18

Thank you very much. Good to be here. Me too.

0:52:180:52:21

John's spent decades lobbying big business

0:52:230:52:26

and government to invest in mineral exploration in the Arctic.

0:52:260:52:30

And here at the Meliadine mine, they have found one of the largest

0:52:300:52:35

undeveloped gold deposits in Canada.

0:52:350:52:37

Right there. See that? That's gold.

0:52:370:52:41

You haven't got a larger nugget you can give me

0:52:410:52:43

to take home with me as a gift?

0:52:430:52:44

-We do not.

-Oh, OK. All right. That's kind of disappointing!

0:52:440:52:48

THEY LAUGH

0:52:480:52:50

Mining in the Arctic is controversial,

0:52:520:52:54

but many Inuit see it as a way to secure their future.

0:52:540:52:58

You're a millionaire. I'm poor.

0:52:590:53:02

THEY LAUGH

0:53:020:53:04

More than half of those working at the mine

0:53:050:53:07

are from the surrounding communities.

0:53:070:53:09

-Do you like the work you do?

-I really like it.

-Yeah? Make good money?

0:53:130:53:17

-Yeah.

-New skidoo? All that kind of stuff?

-Yeah.

0:53:170:53:22

LAUGHTER

0:53:220:53:25

-How about you? You're from?

-Er, Rankin.

-Rankin, right?

-William.

0:53:250:53:30

Oh, OK, OK. I knew the face!

0:53:300:53:33

-So you're doing OK, right?

-Yeah.

0:53:330:53:35

Do you think you would have had a job without the mining thing?

0:53:350:53:38

-To be honest with us?

-Er, no.

-You don't think so?

0:53:380:53:42

-I don't think so either. You know? It's been tough, right?

-Yeah.

0:53:420:53:46

When you see it happening, it kind of overwhelms you, to be honest.

0:53:470:53:52

Because I don't think anybody give a shit for these people, to be honest.

0:53:520:53:56

I think they're kind of left out of the loop,

0:53:560:54:00

if you want to call it that, in my opinion,

0:54:000:54:02

and I think this kind of sense of...

0:54:020:54:06

I call it economic independence is going to make the country better

0:54:060:54:10

and it's going to make the communities better,

0:54:100:54:12

and for me at a very personal level, it... It makes you feel good.

0:54:120:54:17

I can't say any more.

0:54:190:54:21

Here in Rankin Inlet and across the Arctic,

0:54:370:54:39

the economic and cultural prospects are looking good.

0:54:390:54:43

The seal fur trade has expanded to Asia

0:54:440:54:48

and the young Inuit are reconnecting with the old way of life.

0:54:480:54:52

It's the end of the hunting trip,

0:55:060:55:08

and the Bay Boys are heading back to Pangertot.

0:55:080:55:12

Soon they'll return to their different corners of Canada.

0:55:260:55:30

But not before one last celebration.

0:55:310:55:34

We've tried to piece together a dance, like the old days,

0:55:450:55:49

like the things we used to go to in the community hall,

0:55:490:55:52

the way it used to be, and it's rare that they happen now

0:55:520:55:56

so it's quite special to pull it together

0:55:560:55:58

and we're looking forward to everybody managing to make it in.

0:55:580:56:02

I think we'll have a good night.

0:56:020:56:04

LIVELY ACCORDION MUSIC PLAYS

0:56:040:56:06

Whoo!

0:56:110:56:12

WHOOPING

0:56:140:56:16

The Arctic, really, has made me the person I am.

0:56:200:56:23

Even though I've been away, when I come back, we haven't been forgotten.

0:56:230:56:30

I will say this for certain -

0:56:300:56:32

I got far more from the Arctic than I ever gave. This place...

0:56:320:56:36

It's in many ways my home.

0:56:380:56:39

I fell in love with the landscape and the people.

0:56:440:56:48

This community has been so good to me over the last 36 years that I have been here.

0:56:480:56:55

I've just enjoyed every single minute

0:56:550:56:58

that I've lived in this beautiful community, in this beautiful land.

0:56:580:57:02

I think probably, for me, it's the people.

0:57:040:57:07

It's about what the people have given me in me being here.

0:57:070:57:11

I wouldn't be who I am now without the support and the kindness of so many people.

0:57:110:57:17

CHEERING

0:57:170:57:19

-Take care. See ya!

-Take care.

0:57:460:57:50

-Cheers.

-God bless.

-Goodbye.

0:57:520:57:54

The Scots may have stopped coming to work for the Hudson's Bay Company in the Arctic

0:58:010:58:06

but the Bay Boys and all those who came before them will not be forgotten.

0:58:060:58:12

Subtitling by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:58:220:58:26

E-mail [email protected]

0:58:260:58:31

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