Life of a Mountain: A Year on Blencathra


Life of a Mountain: A Year on Blencathra

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Of all the fells and mountains in the English Lake District,

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this one, just over my shoulder,

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is probably one of the most easily recognised -

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it is Blencathra.

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For a long time it wasn't Blencathra.

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It was Saddleback.

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Years ago, when Victorian travellers passed along this way,

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they would see Blencathra for the first time,

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with a natural saddle on the ridge,

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and it became known as Saddleback.

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But fortunately, thanks to the efforts of the guidebook writer,

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Alfred Wainwright,

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who wrote seven pictorial guides to the English Lake District,

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he promoted the name Blencathra, and thankfully the old name,

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the romantic name, is back in vogue.

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This is a working environment,

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it's been a working environment for thousands of years.

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It's the life and soul to everybody around this area.

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The people of Threlkeld live and work beneath this mountain.

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but, to the first-time visitor,

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this is the place where you should come, onto Threlkeld Common,

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with your map and your guidebook, and just get to know the mountain.

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Get to know it so you can actually decide where you're going to start,

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how you're going to explore this place.

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Will you spend every Sunday for the next winter going up and down

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just to find out every nook and cranny?

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Perhaps you should.

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This one smells, actually.

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This is well full, this drain.

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It's a nice day, today, but

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if anything, I quite like it when it's really wet.

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Because at least you can see where the water's going.

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I mean, today it's quite dry here,

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but we're clearing this drain out.

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Well, I've often asked myself why it is I come out.

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And it's literally being out in the open, in the countryside,

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it's the old chestnut of putting something back.

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-Yes, it is.

-But also it's a nice long, slow walk up a fell.

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Our volunteer group

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who support Fix the Fells are an absolutely fantastic bunch.

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They're quite a small group and we always need more long-term support,

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so if any one has any free time, they're always very welcome

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to come out and help us and experience more about what we do.

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But in 2014, they gifted 1,497 days to Fix the Fells, which is enormous.

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And we just couldn't do it without them.

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They're the real backbone of what we do and support our rangers

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in doing some of the bigger project work.

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So was the... Did you do that...

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What, benching, or?

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-Well, all this was done by a machine.

-Right.

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'Many of the paths we work on have been here for centuries.'

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They used to be for purposes of work,

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so the miners would use them, they were packhorse routes,

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they were coffin routes.

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So we would, you know, work on all of those

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and we'd use the same type of techniques.

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And over time, after we've finished the work,

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it will start to blend in as the grass repairs, returns,

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and it just starts to look and feel like it's been there for ever.

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One of the things we use to repair the paths is obviously rock.

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We try and source that from as close to the project as possible.

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So on Blencathra, when we're repairing paths here,

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we'll try and find rock from elsewhere on the mountain.

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And we have to fly that to the site by helicopter,

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which sounds exciting and glamorous,

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and it is great when you get to go up in it,

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but sometimes we're held up by the weather

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and it can take a long time, and it is quite expensive to do it.

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But it is the most cost-effective way.

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This path here that we're on,

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about 15 years ago, it was in a really bad way

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and the path above here was quite badly gullied.

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In fact, right the way down it was gullying.

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There was material spilling down the side right the way to the bottom

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of the comb. We had to do something with it, but

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we wanted to retain the integrity of the path as best we could.

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So we brought a machine up from the bottom,

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and we don't like using machinery in the hills if we can help it,

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but sometimes it's the best way of doing it.

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Unfortunately, we couldn't get past this slab of bedrock here,

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so we had to do the rest of this by hand.

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Although at the time it looked like a really good job,

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and it looked as though it was one piece of work right the way through,

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you can now see that the hand-done stuff above

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is beginning to fail now.

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We're getting back to the gullying again.

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There are some cuts that need putting in

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to stop the material from spilling off the path.

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Skiddaw House is the highest youth hostel in Britain,

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not only in England, but in Britain.

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I've lived here 8½ years,

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and worked here eight years.

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The building dates back about 200 years.

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The lord who used to own all the land around

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actually had it built as a shooting lodge.

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I must say, it's a bit different living here, as you can imagine!

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With no mains electricity,

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and being very dependent on our Jeep to service the hostel.

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Even though the hostel is called Skiddaw House

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and it's referred to as being at the back of Skiddaw,

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we are equally close to Blencathra Mountain,

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so you can see it through all the front windows of the hostel.

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All of these years I've been here,

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I must confess I've only been to the top of Blencathra once,

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and that was last year, actually.

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When I told a friend a couple of years ago,

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a local friend, that I hadn't been, she looked rather shocked,

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and she said, "I'm going to have to come and stay at your hostel

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"and take you to the top of Blencathra!"

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I can't say that we do get lonely.

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First of all, there's two of us

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and then we can listen to the radio so we know what's happening

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in the world, if we want to, and we've got the phone line.

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I really like living here because it's just a special place.

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Years ago, before I met my partner, before I knew I would live here,

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the Lake District for me had a different connection

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because I studied English at university in France,

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so to me, the Lake District had the literary connection of Wordsworth

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and all the other poets.

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I was born and bred here in Threlkeld around about 77 years,

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nearly 78 years ago, which is a long time.

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But I've always lived here.

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Some people may say that I'm a bit of a stick-in-the-mud,

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but I've always admired the area,

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and appreciated the area that I live in.

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Threlkeld and Blencathra and its relationship is quite interesting.

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I would think that probably 80% of people who were born and bred here

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have never been up Blencathra,

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and never wish to go up it.

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That is not for the local people.

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You're a bit funny in the head

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if you live here and you go up Blencathra.

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You know? It's for the tourist.

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And that is the general thing.

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Of course, at one time, it was appreciated by the village,

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not for its beauty, but for the work.

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There was mines at Threlkeld,

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which started way back in the Elizabethan times, probably,

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maybe even before - they mined for lead.

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People didn't come here because it was a nice place to live.

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People came here to work.

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The way of life in this village has changed beyond recognition,

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from the day, the days when I was a child, there were miners,

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there were quarrymen, there were forestry workers,

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there were farmers,

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that were bonded together by their work.

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Because if we have lost anything in Threlkeld,

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we've lost the old community spirit

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of the village that we did have.

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Some may say no, but I think, yes, we have.

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Compared to what it used to be when I was a child.

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So I live between Blencathra and Clough Head.

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I'm actually on the Clough Head side of a river.

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But I walk out of the door and I think,

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"Which way do I go as a fell runner? Clough Head, Blencathra?"

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80% of the time it's Blencathra.

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It just draws me to it.

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A lot of people run on the roads, do marathons and things on the road.

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But people, I think, are looking for something different,

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something more exciting.

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They can realise how actually boring it is running on a road.

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So they start doing trail races.

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And then, sort of, the next stage up from that is fell running.

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Well, I have to tell you that they already do fell running.

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They go out with us and they've done little races on the fell,

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haven't you, Jonty? You go running.

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Out in the fells, I enjoy just running round the fells,

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but I don't do too many races,

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but there are certain ones, like this one, that are just the best.

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You feel like you need to turn out for them.

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It's also a horseshoe, I love the horseshoes,

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it's just got a really nice feel to it.

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It's just very complete, isn't it?

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You go up one side, along the ridge to the top,

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and then down the other side. How more perfect can you get than that?

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Yeah, I enjoyed the view - a great view from the top of Blencathra.

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I can look over to where I live, which is nice.

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I didn't have a long look.

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Get to the top and straight down as fast as I could.

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Run-wise, I was pretty slow at the moment, actually.

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Not feeling my best.

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Just a bit off the pace at the moment, but that happens sometimes.

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I still enjoyed it.

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Basically, most of Blencathra is fairly grassy.

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There's a few of the rocky ridges, so obviously Sharp Edge,

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that's really well known.

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It's an accident blackspot, isn't it?

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A lot of people have died on there,

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so I tend to not run on there very much.

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You know, I can get over it, but it's just not enjoyable,

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so I don't bother.

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Other than that, it's pretty much grassy,

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and so runnable and quite easy.

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What I love about fell running is just the freedom.

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Just to be out on the fells by myself in all weathers.

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You know, I just enjoy being outside, and running on it.

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To me, running is quite a natural thing to do.

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If I'm feeling fit, then I can just,

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I much prefer to just run along at a steady pace, rather than walk.

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We moved here in 2004,

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the end of 2004,

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when my husband, Tim,

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took the job as head of the Blencathra Field Centre.

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I do feel a real connection to Blencathra, unsurprisingly,

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living on it.

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But painting it so often, I do feel that link to it.

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I particularly like painting the saddle and Sharp Edge.

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And I really like strong colours and shape patterns in a painting

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and I think you get that with Blencathra.

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And when you paint, whatever you're painting,

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you take more notice of the colours and the form.

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There is a spiritual feel to Blencathra.

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People do say that, and I do think it's true.

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It stands there in all its majesty,

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demanding that you look at it and respect it, really.

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You can't live here

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and not want to at least take a photograph,

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or paint or write.

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If you don't,

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I think there's probably something a bit wrong with you!

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Some people say to me

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that you've got one of the best jobs in the country.

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I think I have. I've got one of the best views.

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We always say it's probably the finest view from an office

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in the country, looking one-way at Helvellyn, the other way at Skiddaw.

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Before it was a field centre, it was a sanatorium for tuberculosis

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and occupied a brilliant position on the mountain,

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experiencing fresh air, diet, exercise.

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One of the early pioneers of the sanatorium was Dr Wilbert Goodchild.

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He was a medical superintendent, he really established it in 1903.

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He actually lived here until 1944, when he died in Yonder End,

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where I live now. Of course, I hope I'm not going to die in that house,

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but it was his life's work, and he was a very inspirational character.

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He was an early pioneer of the environmental movement.

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He established the first hydro scheme in the 1920s,

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generating electricity.

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It was an idea that inspired me to do the same thing

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and develop our own hydro scheme.

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We are generating over 50 kilowatts of electricity

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up in the Roughten Gill.

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Of course, we're very much at the forefront of climate change.

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And we do study that with our young people.

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We also study rivers, the Glenderaterra,

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we see how those processes shaped the landscape.

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RUSHING WATER

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We're at the Glenderaterra beck, just on the side of Blencathra.

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Over the course of this field trip they've been learning about

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flooding and the hydrology in the river.

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Yesterday we were in Keswick looking at flood defences,

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and this puts it all into context as well.

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Thinking of why this area might be at risk of floods.

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So we've got Skiddaw slate geology,

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which means we've got very fast run-off in the area,

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and few trees to intercept any water, as well.

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So it all mixes with what the students are learning about

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in their whole geography course,

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so it's another reason to bring them out here.

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It makes it a lot easier to understand

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when you can do it in the actual river,

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rather than just looking at it on the whiteboard.

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You've got more understanding of what the river's like,

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rather than just being taught it.

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Yeah, you can write about it in your exam, your actual experiences.

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So, being outside doing this job is fantastic.

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It's much better than sitting in a classroom all the time.

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The kids appreciate it more,

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they get their concepts they learn at school into real-world contexts.

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And it just makes my life fantastic as well,

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being outside and not sitting in an office,

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or anything like that all day.

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I live just along the road.

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There's a mountain surrounding it,

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which you can go up whenever you like.

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Especially in the morning,

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when the sun has just rised,

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and all the mountains are just seeing the sun,

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and it looks really, really nice.

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I think we're lucky living by Blencathra

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because it's a really nice mountain.

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I think it's about 7,000 years old.

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And I think it was made by a glacier.

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It's different from quite a lot of mountains

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because it's got different shapes.

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Because one end's like, nice and smooth,

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and in the middle, it's like, all rocky.

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You can find different types of birds

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and you can find different types of little insects,

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like cricket and bees.

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And on the heather you can find

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a load of beetles and crickets jumping around.

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And on the heather that's in bloom you can see lots of bees

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and wasps, collecting nectar.

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Good morning.

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Stuart.

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-David, as I live and breathe.

-Nice to see you again. And Ed?

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Nice to meet you, how are you doing?

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-I'm all right.

-You guys know each other already, then?

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-Yes.

-We've done some of this stuff before.

-We have.

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-We've got form.

-We've got form in this.

-Nice spot.

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It is, absolutely wonderful. Scales Tarn, you know.

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-Beautiful.

-And we're doing Sharp Edge, I believe.

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-So I understand.

-Which would be that, there?

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That's it there, wonderful skyline we've got there.

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Have you ever had anybody freak out and not want to do it?

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-Yeah.

-No, no.

-I'm not great with heights, but I'm going to try it.

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No, no, no. We'll just take our time.

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And if you sit down, you sit down. You know?

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-How do you mean?

-There's bits up there...

-You do it on your bum?

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-If you have to.

-Come on, let's go. You going to lead the way?

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-Yeah.

-You should.

-Just take our time.

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Just go steady.

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It would be nice if the wind would drop a little bit.

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-Yeah.

-OK. Any tips?

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Just use your hands where you need to.

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Don't be frightened to sit down if you need to as well.

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-OK.

-These are just general tips for life, really, you're offering now!

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Yeah! Yeah, it works out that way.

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But it is a bit of a black spot

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so far as the mountain rescue are concerned,

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so we do our best not to have to call them out.

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Now, we need to, we need to stick to the ridge.

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OK. Whoa! It's getting pretty windy up here.

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Have we got to the bit I'm allowed to do on my bum yet?

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No, not yet!

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OK.

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This is getting interesting.

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Is this the bit where I can sit down?

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You can sit here, yes indeed.

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Tell me when we get to the bit I can do on my bum!

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-Yeah.

-OK.

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Whoa, that is a long way down. OK...

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Just get a hold...

0:23:250:23:27

-Right.

-Good handhold, good foothold. Just watch what you're doing.

0:23:270:23:31

-Sound.

-Woo!

0:23:310:23:34

-Right.

-I mean, you could just jump over that, couldn't you?

0:23:350:23:38

If you were of a mind to.

0:23:380:23:39

-What?

-You could just leap that, couldn't you?

0:23:390:23:42

-Well, you could, yeah.

-But...

0:23:420:23:44

..I didn't feel like it.

0:23:450:23:46

No, I certainly didn't bloody feel like leaping it.

0:23:510:23:54

Woo. That was interesting.

0:23:560:23:58

As in a... "I never want to do it again" kind of way!

0:24:000:24:04

In a sort of...

0:24:040:24:05

But you can see now why it's called Sharp Edge

0:24:050:24:09

and previously it was called Razor's Edge.

0:24:090:24:11

-Razor's Edge?

-Razor's Edge, yeah.

0:24:110:24:13

-Yeah.

-How long ago was it called that?

0:24:130:24:15

I have no idea. Wainwright talks about it, the previous name.

0:24:150:24:19

Talks about how you could shave with it, or something like that.

0:24:190:24:23

Dave does not look like a man who wants to talk about shaving.

0:24:230:24:26

-No, that's true.

-No.

0:24:260:24:27

Doesn't look like a man who's fond of such a thing as a razor.

0:24:270:24:30

Much prefers being called Sharp Edge.

0:24:300:24:32

Are we nearly there yet, David?

0:24:320:24:34

Nearly there?

0:24:340:24:35

-You all right? You happy?

-I wouldn't go that far!

0:24:380:24:41

Happy might be a bit much, yeah.

0:24:410:24:42

Nice spot here. I'm just going to go in here and have a little cry.

0:24:450:24:48

OK, you have a little weep, get it out.

0:24:480:24:52

-You'll feel better.

-I'll feel better, yeah.

0:24:520:24:54

Nice, this, isn't it? Why do we bother?

0:24:550:24:58

Why do we bother?

0:24:580:24:59

I might take up a new hobby.

0:25:010:25:02

I might start going to traction engine rallies.

0:25:020:25:06

I might start doing...

0:25:070:25:09

-Airfix kits.

-Yeah!

0:25:090:25:11

THEY LAUGH

0:25:110:25:13

I have got this...

0:25:140:25:16

Oh.

0:25:160:25:17

I prefer to come down these things backwards, actually.

0:25:170:25:21

OK. I prefer not to be here at all.

0:25:210:25:25

Right.

0:25:270:25:28

Whoa!

0:25:330:25:34

'Tis but a Sunday afternoon stroll.

0:25:400:25:42

There's only a couple of bits there

0:25:440:25:46

where, if you'd fallen, you'd have really been in trouble.

0:25:460:25:49

-Do you think?

-Most of it, I think, you'd only fall so far.

0:25:490:25:52

I suppose people who don't like this sort of thing would say

0:25:520:25:55

is, "You know when you're in the pub?

0:25:550:25:58

"There's NO bits where you can fall and kill yourself!".

0:25:580:26:01

-Yeah.

-Well, there are in some pubs.

0:26:010:26:03

I reckon there are pubs not far from here

0:26:030:26:06

-that are more dangerous than this.

-Probably right, actually.

0:26:060:26:09

Anyway, that's Sharp Edge finished.

0:26:090:26:11

I enjoyed it. I really liked it.

0:26:110:26:13

I did in a mad way, yeah.

0:26:130:26:15

I felt like Louis Walsh there. "I liked it!"

0:26:150:26:18

No, it's good, yeah.

0:26:180:26:20

It's...

0:26:200:26:21

It's very... It's quite involved.

0:26:210:26:24

You've got to pick your way very carefully.

0:26:240:26:26

I think people must be nuts to come up here in the ice and snow.

0:26:260:26:29

It's... Yeah, it's the first time for both of us,

0:26:420:26:45

and we're staying really close by.

0:26:450:26:48

And we wanted to climb the hill that we could see out of the window.

0:26:480:26:53

Yeah!

0:26:530:26:55

It's so nice, for England.

0:26:550:26:57

It's convenient, despite how exhausted I feel.

0:26:570:27:01

Yes, to escape, you know, we were just saying, from New York,

0:27:010:27:05

to do anything like this, we would have to fly somewhere,

0:27:050:27:08

book a holiday or, you know,

0:27:080:27:10

spend days trying to do something like this.

0:27:100:27:13

Whereas this is a day trip for us.

0:27:130:27:14

We'll be back home comfortably in our bed.

0:27:140:27:17

And she'll sleep.

0:27:190:27:21

The kids have done a few Munros in Scotland,

0:27:210:27:23

so they found this a wee bit easier.

0:27:230:27:25

And obviously because the weather's been a lot calmer as well.

0:27:250:27:29

-This one was harder.

-He thought it was harder!

0:27:290:27:32

Walking up Blencathra, or any fell in the Lake District,

0:27:320:27:35

the pain is like giving birth.

0:27:350:27:37

It's painful, but it's worth it for the final result.

0:27:370:27:41

-The view.

-Only the women would know that.

0:27:410:27:43

-Yeah, yeah.

-And you forget about it afterwards.

0:27:430:27:47

It's just brill being up here. I love Blencathra, me!

0:27:480:27:51

I think I'll go and see if any of these people want a photo with me.

0:27:510:27:54

Maybe one of those selfies.

0:27:540:27:56

Or an autograph. They're free, you know, even from a Yorkshireman.

0:27:560:28:00

# On summit ridge, a fountain head

0:28:190:28:21

# So oft a tear, a voice shed

0:28:210:28:24

# And sunrise in its glory greets the mountain

0:28:240:28:28

# The mountain feels, consoles and heals

0:28:300:28:33

# Kindles and inspires

0:28:330:28:35

# Many a yarn and fable spun between the fire

0:28:350:28:40

# Of rock and sun

0:28:400:28:42

# For generations, dawn to dusk

0:28:440:28:47

# A hardy folk have earned a crust

0:28:470:28:50

# The studies and hard work on the mountain

0:28:500:28:53

# In summertime the pilgrims throng

0:28:550:28:58

# To climb, to cycle, walk or run

0:28:580:29:01

# Step lightly on Sharp Edge, my son

0:29:010:29:03

# The shepherd

0:29:030:29:05

# He shined a warning

0:29:050:29:07

# 500 million years

0:29:350:29:39

# What mortal could define

0:29:390:29:41

# Such chiselled art is worlds apart

0:29:410:29:44

# A monument in time

0:29:440:29:47

# As time and spirits like an eagle soar and glide

0:29:470:29:50

# When mountains meet the sky

0:29:500:29:53

# And spirits like an eagle soar and glide

0:29:550:29:59

# When mountains meet the sky

0:29:590:30:02

# When mountains meet the sky

0:30:100:30:12

# When mountains meet the sky. #

0:30:170:30:20

Of course, it's the mountain with two names.

0:30:290:30:33

Saddleback - Wainwright might not have liked it,

0:30:330:30:36

but at least it does what it says on the tin.

0:30:360:30:38

But Blencathra...

0:30:380:30:40

That takes us into a world of myths and legends.

0:30:400:30:45

A landscape populated by strange creatures

0:30:450:30:48

such as the two immortal fish

0:30:480:30:50

that live in Bowscale Tarn behind the mountain.

0:30:500:30:54

And apparently, they'll talk to you, if the mood takes them.

0:30:540:30:58

It must be true, because William Wordsworth wrote about it.

0:30:580:31:02

And then, if you're lucky,

0:31:020:31:04

and you turn up at Souther Fell on Midsummer's Eve,

0:31:040:31:09

You might just get a chance to see the spectral army,

0:31:090:31:14

which marches across the fell and disappears into a cleft in the rock.

0:31:140:31:19

Dozens of people claim to have seen it.

0:31:190:31:22

But these local myths and legends pale into insignificance

0:31:220:31:26

compared with the great sweep of Arthurian legend

0:31:260:31:30

that lies across this landscape.

0:31:300:31:32

Near Eamont Bridge, at Penrith, is King Arthur's Round Table,

0:31:330:31:38

a Neolithic henge,

0:31:380:31:40

where King Arthur and his knights apparently gathered.

0:31:400:31:44

Further down the River Eamont there's Pendragon Castle,

0:31:440:31:48

named after Uther Pendragon, Arthur's father.

0:31:480:31:53

Then there's this place,

0:31:530:31:55

"Blenc...artha".

0:31:550:31:57

Arthur's seat.

0:31:570:31:59

Arthur's throne,

0:31:590:32:01

from which he led the defence of Britain

0:32:010:32:04

against the invading Saxons

0:32:040:32:06

in the late fifth and early sixth centuries.

0:32:060:32:09

Or maybe not.

0:32:090:32:11

But it doesn't matter, because an echo,

0:32:110:32:14

a faint echo of those heroic, epic times

0:32:140:32:19

remains in the name of our mountain, Blencathra.

0:32:190:32:24

We're in the hamlet of Wescoe, near Threlkeld,

0:32:300:32:33

on the shoulder of Blencathra, where a man who has been described

0:32:330:32:37

as the greatest poet writing in English

0:32:370:32:40

in the second half of the 20th century,

0:32:400:32:42

lived and worked for a while.

0:32:420:32:44

The family of WH Auden bought this holiday cottage in the early 1920s.

0:32:440:32:50

And Auden regarded it as his northern bolthole,

0:32:500:32:55

where he could test out the craft of his poetry.

0:32:550:33:00

From his base here at Westcoe, Auden spent joyous days

0:33:000:33:04

exploring the mine workings on the outer slopes of Blencathra.

0:33:040:33:10

Mines for zinc and lead and copper.

0:33:100:33:13

Graphite mines in Borrowdale,

0:33:130:33:16

that he could see from his office window across the valley.

0:33:160:33:20

And eventually, the images that he gathered on these trips

0:33:200:33:24

found their way into the essence of his work.

0:33:240:33:27

And we've got Blencathra to thank for that.

0:33:270:33:31

It's a bit breezy, mate, isn't it?

0:33:370:33:39

Come on, keep it up. Good lad.

0:33:390:33:41

Wow, look at this. The colours here.

0:33:420:33:44

I bet you could if you could see over that wall, pal.

0:33:440:33:48

I think for many people visiting Cumbria today,

0:33:490:33:51

there's a real focus on Wordsworth and on daffodils.

0:33:510:33:54

And as a writer in the Lakes, you know,

0:33:540:33:57

there's a real self-consciousness about that

0:33:570:34:00

sheer volume of literature

0:34:000:34:02

that's been written about this landscape over the centuries.

0:34:020:34:04

I think the process of really just being here

0:34:040:34:07

and just exploring the landscape, being outside,

0:34:070:34:10

seeing the landscape first-hand, and moving through it,

0:34:100:34:13

and just trying to capture something of the essence of the place

0:34:130:34:16

and maybe, hopefully, your work is adding something

0:34:160:34:18

to the overall stewardship of this place.

0:34:180:34:20

I think it's probably true to say that a poem could be considered

0:34:200:34:24

as the shortest form of a short story.

0:34:240:34:26

So really, every word in there has got to earn its keep.

0:34:260:34:30

So you're trying to distil it down,

0:34:300:34:32

really to keep the essence of the place.

0:34:320:34:34

And hopefully to speak to people about the experiences you've had

0:34:340:34:37

out on the fell, so here we are, sat here in autumn,

0:34:370:34:41

and it's taken me probably since about March

0:34:410:34:43

to work through this poem.

0:34:430:34:45

Whether it's finished is another question - you be the judge of that.

0:34:450:34:48

Certainly, you come back to it in a year's time, maybe,

0:34:480:34:50

and you'll see something else out on the fell

0:34:500:34:53

and you'll tweak the words again.

0:34:530:34:54

Or you'll learn something new in your craft,

0:34:540:34:56

and find that you've maybe, you know, not quite got it right.

0:34:560:34:59

Certainly, you know, it's an evolving process.

0:34:590:35:01

'Blencathra.

0:35:030:35:04

'A geology of cloudscape.

0:35:060:35:08

'Layering time in a wind rush of changing light.

0:35:090:35:12

'Herdwicks fossilised in bracken-fronded strata

0:35:140:35:18

'Move imperceptibly,

0:35:180:35:20

'grazing down the fell,

0:35:200:35:22

'one grain at a time.

0:35:220:35:24

'Ravens with wind ruffle of outstretched fingers test the air.

0:35:250:35:29

'Inquisitors searching you with gabbro eye.

0:35:310:35:34

'And still it endures.

0:35:340:35:37

'Wept from a glacier's grazing undertow,

0:35:370:35:40

'which never saw a horse to shape a saddle, yet, here it is.

0:35:400:35:45

'But who could wrangle, tame a mountain such as this?

0:35:450:35:49

'Cloud-ratcher, mist-splitter,

0:35:510:35:53

'snow-etcher,

0:35:530:35:55

'anvil to winter's hammer blows.

0:35:550:35:58

'Fashioning spring's curving light to fit the combe

0:36:000:36:03

'and pave the walker's pilgrimage.

0:36:030:36:06

'Returning by sheep-trod ridge, edge, grass bleached moor.

0:36:070:36:13

'Bitpart in another day in the life of a mountain.'

0:36:140:36:20

I'm the luckiest person in the world, to live here.

0:36:240:36:27

It's just wonderful.

0:36:270:36:29

The farm's been in the family for 104 years.

0:36:290:36:33

It was bought on the 11th November, 1911.

0:36:330:36:38

Obviously it's only 50 acres, which means it's tiny,

0:36:380:36:41

even Lake District sizes,

0:36:410:36:44

it's very, very small.

0:36:440:36:46

So we have diversified.

0:36:460:36:48

Which does involve a lot of work, so we farm tourism,

0:36:480:36:53

or tourists now, as well as sheep.

0:36:530:36:56

The animal side of things is really William's input.

0:36:560:37:01

He's absolutely marvellous.

0:37:010:37:03

He runs sort of rare breeds, as well as some semi-commercials.

0:37:030:37:09

Late autumn, early winter,

0:37:140:37:17

the diversified side of things calms down.

0:37:170:37:20

So it gets quieter.

0:37:200:37:23

From the farm side of things,

0:37:230:37:25

it's obviously tupping time, so Will's sorts all the sheep out

0:37:250:37:28

into their various breeds.

0:37:280:37:30

Then we decide what we're going to keep pure,

0:37:320:37:34

and what we're not going to keep pure.

0:37:340:37:36

We decide what we want for meat lambs,

0:37:360:37:40

and what we want for fleeces.

0:37:400:37:42

Because we're trying to diversify further

0:37:420:37:46

by processing our own fleece into actually knitting yarn.

0:37:460:37:52

Oh, Blencathra. I've been up it loads of times.

0:37:550:37:57

Aye, I see it every day.

0:37:570:37:59

When we're working on the farm. Any time we go anywhere,

0:37:590:38:02

if we go to Penrith or Keswick, we drive right past it.

0:38:020:38:06

It's quite dominating, it's part of daily life.

0:38:060:38:08

Yeah.

0:38:100:38:11

Yes, yeah, it's keeping an eye on us.

0:38:110:38:13

Aye, it's a hard place to work and farm.

0:38:160:38:19

A lot of rainfall.

0:38:200:38:22

You're quite isolated.

0:38:220:38:23

Road access isn't very good.

0:38:230:38:25

And when the snow comes it can be, it can linger and cause problems.

0:38:250:38:32

Yes, but luckily we've got the visitors that come.

0:38:320:38:36

And that makes it better.

0:38:360:38:38

THUNDER RUMBLES

0:38:400:38:43

Hello, good evening. You don't need me to tell you

0:38:480:38:50

that we've had an exceptional amount of rain.

0:38:500:38:52

Over two months' worth of rain in 72 hours in some parts of Cumbria.

0:38:520:38:56

And, while the worst of the rain is over,

0:38:560:38:59

we do have further spells of rain this week.

0:38:590:39:01

They wouldn't normally cause us any problems,

0:39:010:39:03

but the ground is so saturated, the river levels so full,

0:39:030:39:06

it's a very sensitive situation out there,

0:39:060:39:08

so keep tuned to the Environment Agency and the forecasts

0:39:080:39:10

as we go through the next few days...

0:39:100:39:13

-Yeah, no, that's right.

-Everyone's going absolutely potty.

0:39:550:39:59

-That's what we're trying to avoid.

-And that's what you need to avoid.

0:39:590:40:02

That's why we put it at the start,

0:40:020:40:04

with the map of where they are and how to get round it, sort of thing,

0:40:040:40:06

-or where it is, an alternative route.

-Do you like the bridge?

0:40:060:40:10

-Sorry?

-Do you like our bridge?

0:40:100:40:12

Yeah.

0:40:120:40:13

That's one to have some work done on it, I think.

0:40:150:40:18

-Really?!

-The railway bridge is on the Keswick railway line.

0:40:180:40:22

It has, as you can see by the damage, been absolutely devastating,

0:40:220:40:28

so my son and I went round, dear old Will, we went round,

0:40:280:40:33

we picked the gates off the hinges, we strapped them to the fences,

0:40:330:40:37

we moved the sheep as best we could.

0:40:370:40:40

And then it's out of your hands.

0:40:410:40:43

The implications are huge.

0:40:430:40:45

For example, the other day we had to bring some animal feed in

0:40:450:40:50

and it all has to come in in sacks,

0:40:500:40:52

because we've obviously got no vehicle access,

0:40:520:40:55

you're not going to get a car over that, or even through the river.

0:40:550:40:59

So the cost implications are enormous,

0:41:000:41:03

and sadly it's put us out of business,

0:41:030:41:07

because we can't have visitors staying,

0:41:070:41:10

using our wonderful scaffolding as their form of access,

0:41:100:41:14

so the ongoing effects of the storm are actually going to be felt

0:41:140:41:20

for quite a long time.

0:41:200:41:22

From a very personal point of view,

0:41:220:41:24

seeing this damage, it's devastating,

0:41:240:41:27

it's almost like a bereavement,

0:41:270:41:29

because your whole life,

0:41:290:41:32

and your life's work, has gone.

0:41:320:41:35

And we're basically left with a blank canvas to build it up again.

0:41:350:41:40

I've been a photographer,

0:43:250:43:27

trying to be a professional photographer, since 1996,

0:43:270:43:31

but before that I was actually a chemist,

0:43:310:43:35

but my dad, my father, was always a bit of a photographer,

0:43:350:43:38

and used to teach me how to take pictures and things,

0:43:380:43:42

and I'd follow him into the hills, especially in and around Scafell,

0:43:420:43:46

Scafell Pike, up in the mountains, the big mountains.

0:43:460:43:48

He loved the big mountains.

0:43:480:43:50

And now I just,

0:43:500:43:52

I'm just really happy when I'm out in the landscape,

0:43:520:43:54

and if there's a really good light, I'm very driven by the light.

0:43:540:43:59

I just feel I've got to capture that landscape.

0:43:590:44:02

So, I'm here now at Tuffet Tarn,

0:44:060:44:09

which I've been coming to for many years,

0:44:090:44:11

trying to get a decent picture of Blencathra.

0:44:110:44:15

This little tarn is quite handy,

0:44:150:44:17

because it gives us a bit of foreground to the mountain.

0:44:170:44:21

At the moment, it's a bit of a monochromatic sort of image.

0:44:210:44:25

The first time I came to Blencathra,

0:44:300:44:33

I actually climbed it up Sharp Edge back in 1986,

0:44:330:44:38

I think, 30 years ago.

0:44:380:44:40

And in those days I was quite brave

0:44:400:44:43

and it was winter - winter conditions.

0:44:430:44:46

And I just remember it was very foggy.

0:44:460:44:48

Luckily, the fog hid the sheer drops either side.

0:44:480:44:52

But nowadays, I've lost my nerve,

0:44:520:44:55

so I don't think I'll be doing it in winter conditions.

0:44:550:44:57

I'm a bit of a coward.

0:44:570:44:59

The other thing, Blencathra, it's been teasing me for years,

0:44:590:45:02

because I've tried all sorts of different viewpoints.

0:45:020:45:06

It's a very long, wide mountain.

0:45:060:45:09

And I've been up on the old coach road over there.

0:45:090:45:12

And when you look across, if you want to get the whole mountain in,

0:45:120:45:17

you get quite a wide angle lens, but it makes it look fairly small.

0:45:170:45:21

But if you zoom in on it,

0:45:210:45:22

then you're chopping off most of Blencathra either side,

0:45:220:45:26

so you either have to do a panorama and stitch a few images together...

0:45:260:45:30

Also, because of, like I said before, it faces south,

0:45:300:45:34

the best way to get a more three-dimensional image

0:45:340:45:38

is to have side lighting or backlighting,

0:45:380:45:41

so, because Blencathra faces south,

0:45:410:45:43

you go early in the morning or in the evening,

0:45:430:45:47

but I just find Blencathra hard.

0:45:470:45:49

It's a hard mountain to photograph.

0:45:490:45:51

Sharp Edge in winter.

0:46:000:46:01

Glorious.

0:46:010:46:03

Full-on winter with a few spikes on my feet, the crampons.

0:46:030:46:08

Fantastic.

0:46:110:46:12

So, this is a mini mountaineering expedition.

0:46:170:46:22

It's...Sharp Edge at its best.

0:46:220:46:26

Full winter conditions.

0:46:260:46:29

You could say, who needs to go up the Himalaya

0:46:300:46:32

or the Alps when it's like this?

0:46:320:46:34

But as lethal as any mountain ridge.

0:46:360:46:38

It's not going to be forgiving if I slip off to the left.

0:46:380:46:41

That's it. It's about 500 foot down there, by the looks of it,

0:46:410:46:46

300-500 foot.

0:46:460:46:47

Fall off this and you're just straight down.

0:46:470:46:50

Sharp Edge. In the snow.

0:46:520:46:55

What more could you want?

0:46:570:46:58

We've got it to ourselves.

0:47:040:47:06

There we go.

0:47:140:47:15

Fantastic.

0:47:150:47:17

Yep, value for money.

0:47:180:47:20

Sharp Edge in winter.

0:47:210:47:24

But I've been here when it's just been sheet ice

0:47:270:47:30

and that's when it's most dangerous.

0:47:300:47:32

I was here once with a friend who set off on the thin sheet ice,

0:47:320:47:35

the ice just broke away and he was just slipping over the edge there.

0:47:350:47:38

We just caught him.

0:47:380:47:40

And I've been here in verglas, which is really thin black ice.

0:47:400:47:44

And that's really scary.

0:47:440:47:45

That's as if someone's come up here and coated it in butter,

0:47:450:47:48

or some sort of cooking oil.

0:47:480:47:50

That's pretty grim as well.

0:47:500:47:51

So, today is fantastic conditions.

0:47:510:47:54

It's as good as being in the Himalaya or the Alps.

0:47:560:47:58

Or the Karakoram. I'm in my element here.

0:47:580:48:01

It's fantastic. The snow.

0:48:010:48:03

The clouds are parting.

0:48:030:48:05

We're getting blue sky.

0:48:050:48:07

Who'd be anywhere else?

0:48:070:48:09

I remember seeing pictures that the Abraham brothers took

0:48:110:48:15

on the side of Sharp Edge here.

0:48:150:48:19

It was in summer, most of it.

0:48:190:48:21

But some hairy and quite loose,

0:48:210:48:24

sort of, unsound climbing down there.

0:48:240:48:27

But some great photographs taken

0:48:270:48:29

from those huge plate cameras that they had to lug up.

0:48:290:48:33

It was quite impressive.

0:48:330:48:34

Of course, the Abrahams are based in Keswick,

0:48:340:48:37

had a studio not far from here.

0:48:370:48:39

Fantastic all-time photographers.

0:48:390:48:42

And this is the last bit up the face.

0:48:430:48:49

There's sort of gullies you can go up here.

0:48:490:48:51

Or straight up the mixed ground.

0:48:510:48:53

-What are you doing later on, anyway?

-Eh?

-What are you doing later on?

0:48:590:49:03

Might go to the pub, actually.

0:49:030:49:06

Be rude not to, wouldn't it?

0:49:080:49:10

Yeah, after this, but then for my tea, go down The Lion.

0:49:100:49:15

Well, if it stays like this, we're on a winner.

0:49:150:49:18

Ha! As soon as I said that...

0:49:210:49:23

The weather's changing!

0:49:230:49:26

What did I say that for?!

0:49:260:49:28

There's sort of good ground, thin snow coverage.

0:49:300:49:32

We're all right on that.

0:49:320:49:34

It gets a bit tricky in mixed terrain, doesn't it?

0:49:340:49:38

Ups and downs...

0:49:380:49:39

Well, I like the fact it's just... You've got comfortable boots on.

0:49:390:49:43

It's like going for a walk.

0:49:430:49:45

And then the bonus is you snowboard down at the end of it.

0:49:450:49:47

So, why wouldn't you?

0:49:470:49:50

Basically.

0:49:500:49:51

Better on mixed terrain, I think, as well.

0:49:510:49:53

A bit easier than skis.

0:49:530:49:55

But just, once again, fun - fun to be had!

0:49:550:49:59

# Oo-oo-oo-oo-oo

0:50:560:50:58

# Oo-oo

0:50:580:50:59

# Oo-oo-oo

0:50:590:51:01

# Oh-ho

0:51:010:51:03

# Oo oo-oo

0:51:030:51:05

# Oo-oo, oo oo-oo

0:51:050:51:08

# We turn our faces to the wind

0:51:080:51:12

# And in our hearts begin to sing

0:51:130:51:18

# The timeless song

0:51:180:51:19

# That re-unites the Earth and sky

0:51:190:51:28

# Beyond the boundaries of time

0:51:280:51:33

# The past and present side by side

0:51:330:51:37

# Our ancestors

0:51:370:51:40

# And all our futures unified

0:51:400:51:46

-# We are one

-Spirit and land

0:51:470:51:51

# Spirit and land are one

0:51:510:51:56

# Are one

0:51:560:51:58

-# Spirit and land

-Spirit and land

0:51:580:52:01

# Spirit and land are one

0:52:010:52:07

# Are one

0:52:070:52:10

# We walk the paths our fathers walked

0:52:100:52:14

# And sing the songs our mothers sang

0:52:140:52:18

# A song of joy, a song of hope

0:52:180:52:23

# For those to come

0:52:230:52:28

# We turn our faces to the wind

0:52:300:52:34

# And in our hearts begin to sing

0:52:340:52:38

# A song of hope

0:52:380:52:40

# A song of joy

0:52:400:52:43

# A song of love

0:52:430:52:47

# Spirit and land are one. #

0:52:500:53:01

APPLAUSE

0:53:030:53:07

Absolutely lovely.

0:53:070:53:09

Really picks up the feel of the mountains,

0:53:090:53:11

and evokes all the feelings.

0:53:110:53:13

Very nice indeed.

0:53:130:53:15

That was amazing.

0:53:150:53:16

It was just like hearing the wind whispering through the trees,

0:53:160:53:19

on the fell up there. Yeah, fantastic.

0:53:190:53:22

Brilliant. Excellent. Really enjoyed it.

0:53:220:53:24

Yeah, thank you very much. That was lovely. Loved it.

0:53:240:53:28

Thank you. Even the dog loved it.

0:53:280:53:31

LAUGHTER

0:53:310:53:33

-Did you like it?

-Yes!

0:53:330:53:35

Can you sing it again?

0:53:350:53:37

The year's come full circle.

0:54:490:54:51

And here I am again on Threlkeld Common, having a look at Blencathra.

0:54:510:54:56

What makes Blencathra special to people?

0:54:560:54:59

It's what every hill walker wants to do.

0:54:590:55:02

It's what every hill walker remembers climbing.

0:55:020:55:05

Their first ascent, that first adventure.

0:55:050:55:08

It's etched in their minds for ever.

0:55:080:55:10

It's five fells. It's five fells that make one very special mountain.

0:55:110:55:17

And yet it's not the biggest.

0:55:170:55:19

It's 18th in a list of the high points in England.

0:55:190:55:24

Cross Fell in the Pennines is higher than Blencathra.

0:55:240:55:29

But who would remember going up Cross Fell?

0:55:290:55:31

Walt Unsworth, in his book about the high fells of Lakeland, in 1972,

0:55:330:55:39

said that there was nothing to compare with Blencathra.

0:55:390:55:42

Alfred Wainwright suggested that Blencathra

0:55:420:55:46

was a mountaineer's mountain.

0:55:460:55:49

And on a day like today, perhaps he's right.

0:55:490:55:52

But surely... SURELY it's more than that?

0:55:520:55:55

It's the people's mountain.

0:55:550:55:58

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