Denmark Coast


Denmark

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Beaches, boats and bicycles.

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I must be in Denmark.

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For most of us, this is uncharted territory,

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but we're about to discover the stories we share

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with this spectacular coast.

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There are over 400 islands and the odd wind farm to explore.

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In the dunes of Denmark life really is a beach.

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This stunning wind-swept coast is apparently home

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to the happiest people on earth,

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and now we're here to meet them, our North Sea neighbours.

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Alice explores what gave the Vikings the edge over us, and everyone else.

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I am at the helm of a Viking longship, this is just amazing.

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Nick discovers what the great British breakfast owes to the pigs of Jutland.

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There are two porkers for every person in Denmark.

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That's over 12 million pigs.

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Miranda's on a deer stalk with a difference.

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And me? I want to know what the Danes have got to smile about.

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This is Coast and beyond.

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From Scotland we've crossed the North Sea to embark on a great Danish journey.

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I'm travelling down the coast of Jutland

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heading for the Isle of Fano in the south,

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starting as far north as you can go, Skagen.

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This is the tip of the top of Denmark,

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where two great bodies of water meet.

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Look at this, Denmark is a country that actually comes to a point.

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A few steps this way I'll be in the North Sea headed towards home.

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A few steps this way and I'll be in the Baltic, headed towards Russia.

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Now this is my kind of coast to coast walk!

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And I'm not the only one,

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crowds of Danes come here to witness the eternal battle

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between the twin seas.

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It's captivating to watch opposing currents collide

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as two waters wrestle for control.

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Many Danes make something of a pilgrimage

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to this picturesque province of Skagen.

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Why does the heart and soul of a nation seem to lie

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at it's most northerly tip?

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I'm hoping Skagen Museum Director, Lisette Vind Ebbensen can shed some light.

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Oh, yeah. It's so flat, and the sea on either side,

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it just feels like the sea could take it.

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Yes, take it all, yeah.

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British people are fond of saying that they are a sea-going island race.

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Do Danes have this connection to the sea?

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I think it is yes, and it probably goes back to the Vikings.

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We're still proud of the Vikings, I suppose,

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and the coast, and the sea does mean a lot.

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And, I mean, in Denmark you're always close to the sea,

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and especially here in Skagen where you have two different seas.

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I've heard, that the Danish are the happiest people in the world.

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Can that be true?

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Well, I've heard that as well, and I guess the Danes are very happy.

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-Why?

-There's only like 5.5 million people here

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and Danish people are happy people, they're warm,

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they have a lot of hygge.

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-Hygge?

-Hygge is really hard to translate to any language in the world.

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It's a very Danish word, and I suppose it means friendly or cosy.

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We can have a hyggeley time.

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A hyggeley time? You're making this up.

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-No.

-Is this just something that Danish people say to foreigners to make them go away?

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# Oh, the good life

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# Full of fun

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# Seems to be the ideal... #

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'For my first lesson in this uniquely Danish concept of hygge,

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'I've got to get on my bike like everyone else here.

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'Am I having hygge?

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'Maybe. Something tells me I need to investigate further.'

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Every summer in Skagen they celebrate the longest day

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with a giant bonfire and whole lot of hygge down on the beach.

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Sankt Hans is all about hygge.

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Sankt Hans is all about hygge.

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Sankt Hans, St John's eve,

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is a festival of light from the earliest times.

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The celebration of Sankt Hans is a very old tradition

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started by the Vikings or years before Vikings.

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You put the witch on the fire,

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then you light the fire sending the bad spirits away.

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You come dressed as you are,

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you don't have to dress up to come and hyggesheim.

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You'll go and sit on the beach,

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and you have some wine and it will all be hygge.

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And people will have a beer and just walk around, and have some small talk with each other.

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It's very romantic.

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When the students come down here to the bonfire

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and they want to throw their notes just before the fire is getting started.

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as a sign of "We don't need them any longer".

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So it has become a tradition

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that they all do that for Sankt Hans evening now.

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It's a big bonfire, you can feel it,

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we're standing 50 metres away,

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suddenly the heat is there and it's an incredible heat.

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It was a lovely evening,

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we had some good food and a very hyggely evening.

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It may be 11 at night, but the sun's yet to set

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and there's a lot more hygge to be had before dawn.

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Winds whip over northern Jutland.

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Its famous walking dunes

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have engulfed whole villages,

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so conifers and grasses were planted to anchor the landscape.

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But not everywhere has been pinned down.

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A small desert has been left to roam free,

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the Rabjerg Mile, a magic carpet of sand.

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This entire dune system is ceaselessly on the move.

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The whole thing began its journey over there on the west coast

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and it's moving across country towards the east.

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In 200 years or so this huge ocean of sand

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will have travelled cross-country from coast to coast.

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The surreal shifting sands of this fairytale world stretch down to the sea.

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Don't stand around too long or you'll get gobbled up.

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Now, this towering sand dune

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is surely impressive enough, but I'm told there's a sight

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at the top of it that's nothing less than spectacular.

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Look at that!

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That's like a special effect from a film about the end of the world.

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Lighthouses, as we all know,

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are built for protection from the power of the sea.

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How ironic, then, that this tower

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should have bee overwhelmed by a much slower moving wave...of sand.

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The light was lit for the first time in 1900

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and finally extinguished in 1968

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when the crew of this place had to admit defeat.

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Some 1,600 years ago, people from hereabouts in Jutland

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began getting in boats and heading for Britain.

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They left behind their own sandy shores

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and headed instead for the fertile lands of Kent

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and the Isle of Wight.

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The Jutes of Jutland were followed some 500 years later

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by more famous and fearsome Danes, the Vikings.

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Over on the east coast is Roskilde.

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It's an ancient capital of Viking power.

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Here, over 1,000 years ago,

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they planned raids on Britain, as Alice is about to explore.

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The cathedral at Roskilde is built on the site of a 10th century Viking church.

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Generations of Danish monarchs are buried here.

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But there's one Danish king who's missing from Roskilde,

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someone whose remains are buried in Winchester Cathedral.

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That's because in the early 11th century

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King Canute was the ruler not just of Denmark but of England.

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Canute was a colossus of the Viking world.

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He didn't only reign in Britain and Denmark,

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but also Norway and part of Sweden.

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In the 9th and 10th centuries the Vikings were THE European superpower.

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Each year, Roskilde throws a party to honour their warrior ancestors.

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The secret of Viking power wasn't the sword or the axe,

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but a weapon that guaranteed them speed and stealth.

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This is a reconstruction of the ultimate 10th century war machine,

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the longship.

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This one is called a Sea Stallion,

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and she's based on an actual Viking longship

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that was excavated from the fjord here at Roskilde.

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She looks absolutely beautiful sitting here in the calm waters

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of the harbour, but I do wonder just how sea-worthy she really is.

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I've been offered the unique opportunity of signing up

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for her 60-strong crew, but this is no free ride.

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It's hard physical work

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but it's quite relaxing in a weird way as well.

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The rhythmic nature of it,

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and there's a little pause at the end of each stroke where you just get to catch your breath.

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This isn't a pleasure cruiser, the Sea Stallion's a living laboratory.

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Building and sailing a replica of the ship found in this Fjord

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has given the archaeologists a valuable insight into Viking technology.

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Luckily for us when it was found

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most of the keel and some of the floor timbers were found,

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so by looking at that, the reconstructors were actually able to estimate

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the design, the length, the width and also the depth of the ship

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from, actually, just looking at those 25%.

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'This classic boat design was so successful

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'it was still being used by descendants of the Vikings,

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'the Normans, for their invasion of England in 1066.'

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And what about things like the colour of it?

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The colour of the Sea Stallion, the blue the yellow and the red,

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is actually from the Bayeux Tapestry.

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-Oh, lovely.

-Most of the boats on the Bayeux Tapestry

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have this blue, red and yellow colour...

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-Yes, very similar.

-The blue is the most powerful colour,

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it's the Royal blue, the expensive colour bought in the Arabic areas,

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and then the yellow and the red is ochre colours

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which we had in Scandinavia, that was most common colours to use here.

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So do you think that King Canute would have had similar ships

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when he brought his fleet over to Britain?

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I would expect so, yeah. At least a few of them would be this size.

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And this size of ship, this was exclusively a warship?

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Yeah, a warship is always long and narrow and has a shallow keel.

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In 2007, to discover how Viking warriors like Canute

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crossed from Denmark to attack the British isles,

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the Sea Stallion followed in their wake,

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attempting a hazardous voyage across the North Sea.

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When I first saw the ship lying there in the harbour

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she looked beautiful but it was hard to imagine

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how she was going to perform on the open sea, so how does she perform?

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That was a big question for me too in heavy sea and heavy weather.

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It's a wonderful ship, it's a wonderful ship.

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I'm amazed how it's coping with these big waves,

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five metres of waves and very steep, short waves.

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-Five metres?

-Five metres...

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Because I mean this rides very low in the water.

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Yes, it's not one metre, so looking up at these waves coming, "Argh!".

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Then you feel out there that it's a seagoing warship.

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So can you imagine King Canute taking his army across to Britain in ships

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like this, can you imagine what it would have been like for them?

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We were over there in one ship.

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They would have been sailing, maybe, 200 ships.

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It must have been an incredible sight.

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In 1015, Canute invaded England with a fleet of these ships.

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It probably took him just three days sailing from Denmark,

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his vessels both fast and seaworthy.

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When the longships reached the British coast,

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their shallow draft meant they could navigate up the rivers

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to take the English by surprise.

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Canute claimed the crown of England

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and cemented a relationship with our monarchy that has spanned the centuries.

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Which explains why Canute, King of Denmark and England

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doesn't rest here in Roskilde,

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but back in Britain at Winchester Cathedral.

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Vikings no longer race down this coast, but the Danes are still drawn to their shore.

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In the summer, whatever the weather,

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they'll head to the west of Jutland for its feel-good factor.

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I'm off to the beach, to continue my quest for hygge,

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the uniquely Danish sense of wellbeing or happiness.

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I'm going to need some tips from a Dane.

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Whenever you wash up on foreign shores a little local knowledge goes a long way.

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So I'm joining Mette Lisby,

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who's going to show me how to enjoy the seaside Danish style.

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I've been on a sort of pilgrimage in search of hygge,

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or to experience hygge.

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Is there hygge to be had on the beach?

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There is, but it's actually not the best place for hygge.

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Is it a bit too exposed and a bit too open on the beach?

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Exactly, yeah, and most people when you say "hygge"

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will think about the long winter evenings where it's dark

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outside and you have candles inside, you might even have a fireplace.

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'So it's hard to find hygge on the beach, but you don't have to go far.

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'Apparently, you head for your summer house.

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'One in four Danes has one.'

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-I'm more used to a hut with a door and a padlock.

-Oh, no, no.

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We have big beach houses, or summer huse, as we call them.

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Could I have one of those?

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-No.

-No?

-No, we're very protective of our beach houses.

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The rules are that you can only buy them if you're Danish.

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-Really!? No foreigners?

-No.

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That's not really in the spirit of the European Union.

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It's not at all, no. In Denmark, foreigners can't buy the beach houses.

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You're very possessive about your coast.

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Yes, I think so. Yeah, it's mentioned in all the national songs and anthems of Denmark.

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I think it's something we're proud of, really.

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You can come, you can look at it, but you can't stay.

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-And then you have to leave!

-When are you people going home?

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I'm not ready to throw in my beach towel just yet.

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There's hygge to be had out there somewhere.

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My search for coastal cosiness continues.

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Heading away from the open sea is the Limfjord,

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which twists and turns as it carries the coastline

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deep into the heart of Jutland.

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Carved out in the last ice age,

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the landscape around Limfjord's had a surprisingly big impact

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on the British breakfast.

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On the banks of the fjord, Nick's making himself at home.

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For generations, Britons have been connected to this country

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by what's written on the back of their bacon, Danish.

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Mass-marketing has always been a vital ingredient

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in the Danish recipe for success,

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but what got them started them on the business of selling us bacon,

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and why did we gobble it up?

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'One name is enjoyed by more homes in this country

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'for its consistent high quality than any other.'

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It's British consumers who have helped to make the Danes

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one of the biggest exporters of pig meat in the world.

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There are two porkers for every person in Denmark,

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that's over 12 million pigs.

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Surprisingly, this rich bacon business

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was built on very poor coastal terrain,

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a landscape familiar to rural expert Flemming Just.

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Is this a beach or a field?

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It's a field and in fact it is very typical for Jutland, sandy.

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It is just sand, isn't it? There's not a lot of nutrients in sand.

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Until the middle of the 19th century

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it was totally covered by heather and almost no forest.

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Once, this was a windswept wilderness without a pig in sight.

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It's transformation to bacon central

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began with a disastrous defeat for the Danes some 200 years ago.

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In the Napoleonic wars,

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Britain attacked Denmark to capture its fleet.

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In the aftermath, the Danes lost control of Norway

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as the map of Europe was re-drawn.

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Later, the Germans grabbed a chunk of Danish territory,

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their rich agricultural land in the south.

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To survive, the Danes had to make the most of their infertile coastal plains in North Jutland.

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Denmark's bacon boom was about to begin.

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So from that time on, they started to cultivate the heather land here in Jutland,

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so a kind of agricultural revolution at the same time as Britain had its industrial revolution.

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Those two revolutions, they combined,

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so Britain deliberately decided only to focus

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on their industrialisation and not care about farming.

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Britain couldn't feed itself,

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whereas Denmark became the larder for the British industrialisation.

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These sandy fields weren't good for growing crops,

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but pigs aren't that fussy,

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so this coastal region became farmland to feed us bacon.

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As intensive rearing replaced this rural idyll,

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pigs grew into big business,

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and 100 years later, Danish was one of the first foods advertised on British TV.

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Hello, there, I'm the Danish bacon Viking.

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The majority of Jutland's pigs end up here in Esbjerg.

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Denmark's largest North Sea port was founded in 1868

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especially for exports to us.

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But before they can be loaded onto ships, Danish pigs have to become Danish bacon.

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140 countries now buy Danish,

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but they claim the best cuts head our way.

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These are backs of bacon.

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7,000 of them are going through here today,

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and they're all bound for Britain.

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It's staggering to think how, from humble beginnings,

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shipping pig meat from this port really did save Denmark's bacon.

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Now they send us over 250 lorry-loads each week.

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That's 300,000 tonnes of the stuff every year.

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And it's not just bacon the Danes have fed us from here.

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Over the years we've spread butter that's past through this port,

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gulped lager, and even done a bit of building with the odd plastic brick.

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They've all passed through Esbjerg bound for Britain.

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Denmark's flat western coast

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takes a constant battering from the North Sea.

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The winter storms throw up 20 ft waves,

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so it's no wonder exposed towns like Thyboren are under threat.

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That's why the Danes are busy sucking up sand,

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only to pump it back onto the beach.

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A wee stroll along the shore suits me fine, but some people feel the need for speed.

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The North Sea beach marathon is one of the few anywhere in the world

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run entirely on sand, which makes this marathon especially tough.

0:25:280:25:33

Taking up the challenge is 68 year old retired Methodist minister Malcolm Brooks from Hereford.

0:25:330:25:39

I hear it's pretty tough,

0:25:390:25:41

but the tougher a marathon is the more attractive I find it.

0:25:410:25:44

I'll be really in touch with human beings' basic instincts,

0:25:440:25:48

muscle, body, the air, the sea, the sand,

0:25:480:25:51

the landscape, basic kind of primitive fundamental things.

0:25:510:25:55

Bring it on, bring it on.

0:25:550:25:57

I'm just up for it, it's great.

0:25:570:25:59

Got my shades to stop the glare from the sea and the sun,

0:26:000:26:05

got my energy gels.

0:26:050:26:07

See you later.

0:26:070:26:10

With 26 and a bit miles of soft sand to negotiate

0:26:130:26:17

in temperatures touching 30 degrees Celsius,

0:26:170:26:20

Malcolm's got his work cut out.

0:26:200:26:23

It's tough. It's hot.

0:26:230:26:25

It's much softer, much sandier, quite slippy and slidy.

0:26:250:26:31

I've done 19.7 miles.

0:26:390:26:43

The race has been on for almost seven hours,

0:26:480:26:52

but you are still having runners struggling

0:26:520:26:56

to get to the finish line, and the last runner is Malcolm Brooks.

0:26:560:27:00

Yeah, I mean I'm running on my own,

0:27:000:27:02

I'm right at the end, but I don't mind that.

0:27:020:27:05

Malcolm's twice the age of most of the competitors,

0:27:070:27:11

so there's no shame in coming 236th out of 236.

0:27:110:27:16

With Malcolm in they can all go home.

0:27:180:27:21

Very nice. The last bit was really, really tough.

0:27:250:27:30

I came home pretty breathless.

0:27:300:27:33

As I make my way down the Danish coast, concrete pill boxes are my constant companions.

0:27:410:27:47

They're the ruins of the fortifications for Hitler's so-called Atlantic Wall.

0:27:470:27:52

Although it never seemed very likely that the Allies would invade through Denmark.

0:27:520:27:56

But the Germans built bunkers here anyway.

0:27:560:27:59

The Atlantic Wall master-plan demanded concrete fortifications

0:27:590:28:03

all along the coast from Norway to Spain, so systematically,

0:28:030:28:08

rigorously, the war machine of the Third Reich rolled on regardless.

0:28:080:28:12

With each new tide, the North Sea erodes the foundations of the German occupation,

0:28:160:28:21

but there's one memory of that tyranny that will never be washed away,

0:28:210:28:25

what happened when the Holocaust came to Denmark.

0:28:250:28:28

To uncover a rarely told tale of how ordinary Danes outwitted the Nazis,

0:28:280:28:35

Alice is in Copenhagen.

0:28:350:28:38

Back in 1940, Copenhagen was like it is today,

0:28:450:28:49

a vibrant, cosmopolitan city, buzzing with life.

0:28:490:28:54

One April morning all that changed,

0:28:540:28:57

as the streets echoed to the sound of jackboots

0:28:570:29:00

when the Danish Government was forced to accept the protection of the Third Reich.

0:29:000:29:05

But by 1943, Germany was losing the war and Danish resistance was growing stronger.

0:29:050:29:12

Germany then took complete control in Denmark, and Hitler

0:29:120:29:16

ordered the arrest of all the country's Jews for transportation to the concentration camps.

0:29:160:29:23

The round-up was set to begin on the night of the 1st October, 1943,

0:29:230:29:28

Rosh Hashanah, the start of the Jewish New Year,

0:29:280:29:32

when the Nazis expected that Jewish families would be at home,

0:29:320:29:37

but most of them were already on the run.

0:29:370:29:40

Plans for the round-up had been leaked by a sympathetic German administrator.

0:29:410:29:47

Rabbi Bent Melchior was 14 at the time

0:29:470:29:50

when his father broke the fateful news to the Jewish community.

0:29:500:29:54

We went to synagogue very early on that morning,

0:29:540:29:59

and my father stopped the service,

0:29:590:30:02

went up and said "Listen".

0:30:020:30:06

There were 100, 120 people in the synagogue,

0:30:060:30:11

"I tell you this is life or death,

0:30:110:30:15

"don't be at home on Friday night".

0:30:150:30:18

That Friday night, the Germans raided the homes of Danish Jews

0:30:260:30:30

expecting to detain about 8,000 people,

0:30:300:30:33

but they found only 250.

0:30:330:30:36

Denmark's Jews were already in hiding.

0:30:360:30:41

And I remember early next morning, you know,

0:30:410:30:44

that was at a period when you still could have milk brought to your door every morning,

0:30:440:30:50

we heard one of these boys whistling,

0:30:500:30:53

and my father commented, "Can you understand

0:30:530:30:58

"that anybody can whistle on a day like that".

0:30:580:31:02

In 1943, much of Europe was under Nazi control.

0:31:080:31:13

Denmark's Jews had one desperate chance for freedom,

0:31:130:31:18

find a harbour and sail to neutral Sweden.

0:31:180:31:22

But getting there meant crossing a heavily guarded stretch of water.

0:31:220:31:26

Over the next three weeks, in secret,

0:31:280:31:31

thousands of families made for the coast to fishing villages like here at Gilleleje.

0:31:310:31:37

Praying that they wouldn't be betrayed by informers, scores of people hid out in the buildings

0:31:420:31:48

around here waiting for good weather,

0:31:480:31:51

and hoping that a fisherman might be able to ferry them to safety.

0:31:510:31:56

The fisherman that was given the responsibility to take us over

0:31:560:32:01

was a man who never had navigated away from the coast.

0:32:010:32:05

He had bought a compass,

0:32:050:32:08

but he didn't know how to use it.

0:32:080:32:10

Thank you!

0:32:100:32:12

About 20 men, women and children could be crowded onto a fishing boat of this size,

0:32:260:32:31

trusting in the fisherman to get them across this fairly narrow stretch of water

0:32:310:32:36

across to Sweden, which you can see, tantalisingly close on the horizon.

0:32:360:32:41

But they would have been all too aware that there were German patrol boats in the area.

0:32:410:32:45

It was terrifying,

0:32:450:32:48

I could not...

0:32:480:32:50

Excitement, I couldn't feel.

0:32:510:32:54

After several hours at sea, just before dawn

0:32:540:32:58

they arrived off the coast of what they thought was Sweden.

0:32:580:33:01

We saw land, we saw the lighthouse, the light going over the waters.

0:33:010:33:07

But in the darkness their skipper had sailed around in a circle.

0:33:070:33:11

We were at the southern point of Denmark,

0:33:110:33:14

and the people sitting at the lighthouse were not Swedes but were Germans.

0:33:140:33:21

The fisherman didn't know, we first thought he was a traitor,

0:33:210:33:25

but we realised he was as afraid as we were.

0:33:250:33:28

They tried again, but now in broad daylight,

0:33:280:33:32

exposed to patrolling German aircraft.

0:33:320:33:36

To get over in daylight, we were lying down on the wooden covers,

0:33:360:33:43

and who knew where we were going?

0:33:430:33:46

I mean, it was just a coincidence

0:33:460:33:50

that we actually got to a Swedish place,

0:33:500:33:54

and it was close to 1 o'clock, noon,

0:33:540:33:56

when by a miracle, a son of a Swedish fisherman

0:33:560:34:00

went to his father and they took us onboard on their boats,

0:34:000:34:05

and we came into land and I remember when he said,

0:34:050:34:09

"Valkommen till Sverige". Welcome to Sweden.

0:34:090:34:14

And I can tell you that

0:34:140:34:16

I'm still in touch with this little boy,

0:34:160:34:19

who's no longer six but something like 72.

0:34:190:34:25

On a day like this with a benign sea and Sweden clearly visible on the horizon,

0:34:250:34:31

it seems remarkable but not every boat was as sea-worthy as this one

0:34:310:34:36

and some of them just didn't make it.

0:34:360:34:38

There were tragedies, but 95% of Denmark's Jews,

0:34:380:34:41

almost 8,000 men, women and children were helped to safety in Sweden.

0:34:410:34:48

Together, ordinary Danes had defied Nazi tyranny,

0:34:480:34:53

in the darkest of times, a shining beacon of hope.

0:34:530:34:57

And to quote my late father, Jewish history has many examples

0:34:570:35:02

where Jews were helped to leave the country,

0:35:020:35:06

but where Jews were welcomed back that is a unique story,

0:35:060:35:10

and we were certainly welcomed back.

0:35:100:35:13

My journey continues south along the shore of Jutland.

0:35:290:35:34

This is a protected stretch of beach,

0:35:340:35:36

and you won't find many houses,

0:35:360:35:38

but strangely, you can park right on the sand.

0:35:380:35:42

No pay and display here,

0:35:420:35:44

but take local advice, tourists regularly get stuck,

0:35:440:35:48

and getting caught out by the tide costs more than a parking ticket.

0:35:480:35:52

Just behind the dunes, Miranda's seeking some residents

0:35:580:36:02

who've happily parked themselves in a very protected spot.

0:36:020:36:06

It's just after dawn, and I've come here to find some animals you don't

0:36:100:36:13

normally expect to be living by the sea, and that's red deer.

0:36:130:36:18

WHISPERING: This is great. I'm just at the edge of the forest, using the forest as cover.

0:36:320:36:36

The deer are feeding out on this open grassland.

0:36:360:36:38

You can just see the dunes, and obviously there's the sea just behind me.

0:36:380:36:43

He's just put his head down, but I think that the deer

0:36:440:36:48

feeding behind us is probably a young male, just had tiny antlers.

0:36:480:36:54

It's hard to get close to them. These shy creatures are easily spooked.

0:36:540:36:59

But the serenity of the scene isn't quite as it appears.

0:36:590:37:02

These red deer have rather noisy neighbours.

0:37:020:37:06

They share their home with the Danish army.

0:37:090:37:11

This is a restricted zone, off limits to everyone not driving a tank.

0:37:140:37:20

Oddly, this unusual relationship between wildlife and warfare seems to work.

0:37:210:37:27

I want to see it from the military perspective.

0:37:300:37:35

So, Fritz, tell me how long the Danish army has lived side by side with the red deer here?

0:37:350:37:40

We have actually being living together since 1928-29

0:37:400:37:45

approximately, so we know each other quite well, I have to say.

0:37:450:37:50

We have a little bit of a strange neighbourship because

0:37:500:37:53

when we are outside of our vehicles they are gone,

0:37:530:37:56

but when we're inside our vehicles we have no problems,

0:37:560:38:00

they can stay just beside the vehicle,

0:38:000:38:03

and it means they feel if we are starting shooting and so on.

0:38:030:38:07

They just slowly disappear from the area.

0:38:070:38:09

All around the shooting area there is a big forest

0:38:090:38:13

so the deer can go into the forest

0:38:130:38:15

and stay there for a long period and come out again if we are finished.

0:38:150:38:19

-And do you like having them around, is it nice?

-Very nice, yeah.

0:38:190:38:23

Despite the disruptions, the deer love being beside the sea.

0:38:230:38:27

There's tasty heather and shelter in the dunes from the constant wind.

0:38:270:38:32

It's early Autumn and the rutting season has begun.

0:38:360:38:39

Ole Daugaard-Petersen is head of the deer reserve.

0:38:390:38:44

There's some interesting activity going on in the group down there.

0:38:440:38:48

There's a large number of hinds and there's that big stag

0:38:480:38:51

that's constantly patrolling, looking after that group of females.

0:38:510:38:55

Just now the mature stags are rounding up the hinds and

0:38:550:39:00

the point is he wants to mate with all of them.

0:39:000:39:02

He wants to keep his competitors away,

0:39:020:39:05

and you will see the young stags

0:39:050:39:08

circling around the herd,

0:39:080:39:10

hoping to get the chance to get a go with the hinds,

0:39:100:39:13

and the mature stag, he will keep them away.

0:39:130:39:17

So he can keep going for two, three weeks rutting, no eat no nothing, and then you will see the stag,

0:39:170:39:24

suddenly he will be lying sleeping for a few minutes,

0:39:240:39:28

up again and so he carries on for three weeks,

0:39:280:39:31

and then it's done and he leaves his hinds.

0:39:310:39:34

He might have lost 30-40 kilos during those three weeks,

0:39:340:39:39

so he's really busy, you know?

0:39:390:39:41

Three weeks of rutting with barely a break,

0:39:440:39:48

these majestic stags have got some serious stamina.

0:39:480:39:52

We've reached Denmark's most westerly point, Blavandshuk.

0:40:030:40:07

A top spot for a great view.

0:40:100:40:13

Just three miles or so off the coast here is the most notorious reef

0:40:160:40:21

in the whole of the North Sea.

0:40:210:40:23

In the days of sail it was known to the skippers as Duyvels Horn. The Devil's Horn.

0:40:230:40:30

Once the graveyard of countless ships,

0:40:300:40:33

today, Horns Reef is helping to save the planet.

0:40:330:40:37

It's home to one of the world's largest off-shore wind farms.

0:40:370:40:41

This is a site that's set to be increasingly familiar off our shores,

0:40:410:40:46

but what you don't often see is how these big beasts get built.

0:40:460:40:50

At the port of Esbjerg, engineering and green enthusiast, Dick Strawbridge,

0:40:540:40:58

is about to discover how the pieces fit together.

0:40:580:41:01

They assemble what bits they can on the quayside before shipping them out to sea.

0:41:040:41:09

Bolting the blades on is job number one.

0:41:090:41:13

The bloke in charge is Siemens's technical wizard, Jesper Moeller.

0:41:130:41:18

-It's huge!

-This is a 45-metre blade made out fibreglass.

0:41:180:41:23

It's just literally fibreglass?

0:41:230:41:25

Yes, it's fibreglass, fibreglass and balsa wood, and it's cast in one piece.

0:41:250:41:30

Hold on, say, "It's cast in one piece again."

0:41:300:41:33

There's an echo, it's long enough to give you an echo.

0:41:330:41:35

The shape is developed over many years

0:41:350:41:38

and it's actually consisting of different aircraft blade shapes.

0:41:380:41:43

This is the tip, but you look at that, that's sharp.

0:41:430:41:50

It's not quite straight.

0:41:500:41:51

It has a slight curve, because when it's pointing up towards the wind

0:41:510:41:56

-it has a slight bend towards the wind...

-It flexes.

0:41:560:41:59

It flexes, then when the wind pushes on it, it straightens out.

0:41:590:42:03

Everything looks shiny and new right now, but out in the North Sea

0:42:030:42:08

these turbines are going to face a right battering.

0:42:080:42:12

So why go to all the trouble of sticking them nearly ten miles offshore?

0:42:120:42:16

Well, offshore has a lot of advantages.

0:42:160:42:18

It has a very stable flow of wind.

0:42:180:42:21

Lots of constant wind?

0:42:210:42:23

Yes, and also higher wind compared to onshore locations.

0:42:230:42:26

It's time for this land-lover to brave the North Sea and take a look.

0:42:280:42:33

The installation vessel is already on its way, and I'm hot on its heels.

0:42:330:42:38

Another good reason to build out here, no complaints from the neighbours.

0:42:410:42:45

But some people do have to live near the turbines,

0:42:450:42:49

and the maintenance team need a house.

0:42:490:42:52

We're about 14 kilometres off the Danish coast.

0:42:540:42:57

This is the accommodation platform, and we're in the middle of nowhere.

0:42:570:43:02

The engineers share the platform with an electrical sub-station.

0:43:020:43:07

There's lots of technology here,

0:43:070:43:09

and that's not surprising because all the electricity from the wind turbines

0:43:090:43:12

is sucked in here before being sent ashore,

0:43:120:43:15

and when the wind blows, there's enough electricity to power 20 million light bulbs.

0:43:150:43:20

This is a paradise for engineers.

0:43:270:43:30

It may look like the turbines are in nice neat rows, but it's more complicated than that.

0:43:300:43:34

The turbines aren't in a block, they're in a fan shape,

0:43:340:43:38

which means when the wind blows from the west

0:43:380:43:40

any turbulence doesn't reduce the efficiency of the other turbines,

0:43:400:43:44

so all the energy from the wind can be captured by the wind turbines and turned into electricity,

0:43:440:43:48

and there's absolutely masses of it.

0:43:480:43:51

The installation vessel is now in position,

0:43:560:43:59

and they've started to erect turbine number 70.

0:43:590:44:02

I'm on my way.

0:44:020:44:03

Denmark is the land of Lego, this is the ultimate big piece of kit to put together, isn't it?

0:44:050:44:10

Seapower with its crane is going to assemble it all, good job.

0:44:100:44:15

So, how do they do it?

0:44:150:44:17

Actually, it's a really simple system.

0:44:170:44:19

They drive a mono-pile into the sea bed about 20 metres, then they put the yellow section on.

0:44:190:44:23

It is actually the transition piece, and they make sure that's perfectly vertical.

0:44:230:44:28

Then they've already added on one piece of tower,

0:44:280:44:30

we're about to see a second piece of tower go on,

0:44:300:44:32

then they'll shove the turbine on the top and then the blades and it's done.

0:44:320:44:36

The engineers are battling to complete the job before the autumn storms hit.

0:44:390:44:44

In calm weather, they can put up three turbines in 24 hours of non-stop effort.

0:44:440:44:51

This thing is massive!

0:44:510:44:54

Thank you.

0:44:540:44:56

I've got to get myself one of these,

0:45:030:45:06

it's awesome.

0:45:060:45:08

This beauty is over 1.5 times taller then Nelson's Column,

0:45:150:45:20

but the technology doesn't stand still.

0:45:200:45:23

The ones planned for our seas are going to be even bigger than these guys.

0:45:230:45:27

Look out for them coming to a coast near you.

0:45:270:45:30

The Wadden Sea, a vast tidal mudflat,

0:45:370:45:40

an essential resting place for migrating birds.

0:45:400:45:45

Over 50 species can be found on it's marshlands

0:45:450:45:48

and over 10 million birds pass through every year.

0:45:480:45:52

I'm still on my quest to discover why Denmark is rated the happiest nation on earth.

0:45:570:46:03

I'm told it's linked to their unique concept of cosiness, or hygge.

0:46:030:46:09

So far on my journey, I've learned that Danish hygge is about community.

0:46:130:46:18

It's about coming together with family and friends for good times.

0:46:180:46:22

Maybe the mega flocks of birds are inspired by hygge too.

0:46:220:46:25

As evening approaches, thousands of starlings swoop and swerve

0:46:300:46:34

in search of a safe haven for the night.

0:46:340:46:37

Denmark has 406 happy isles, but there used to be one more,

0:46:490:46:54

a tiny outpost in the North Sea. Heligoland.

0:46:540:46:58

Then, around 200 years ago,

0:46:580:47:00

the British acquired this small community.

0:47:000:47:04

At first, we built Heligoland up, but ultimately we blew it up.

0:47:060:47:12

Mark's exploring Britain's remarkable bond to an ill-fated isle.

0:47:140:47:19

This newsreel from April, 1947, shows a Royal Naval officer

0:47:210:47:28

nine miles off the shore of Heligoland,

0:47:280:47:31

his thumb poised on a button that will trigger a massive explosion.

0:47:310:47:37

This British naval officer was about to set off

0:47:370:47:41

the largest non-nuclear explosion the world had ever seen.

0:47:410:47:47

But why, two years after the end of the war,

0:47:470:47:50

do the British want to devastate this tiny German island?

0:47:500:47:56

Heligoland had been wired with 7,000 tonnes of high explosive,

0:47:560:48:02

to be triggered at precisely 1 o'clock on the last of the BBC pips.

0:48:020:48:09

BEEPS

0:48:090:48:11

Why did we have such a grudge against this beautiful island,

0:48:130:48:17

an island that once used to be British?

0:48:170:48:20

For centuries, the proud fishing community of Heligoland had lived in relative peace.

0:48:200:48:26

Then, in 1807, Britain acquired the island from the Danes

0:48:260:48:31

after they backed the wrong side in the Napoleonic wars.

0:48:310:48:36

For 83 years, the Union flag flew over the Heligolanders,

0:48:360:48:41

but our flirtation with them had an explosive end.

0:48:410:48:45

Former Essex man Raymond Beves knows the story.

0:48:450:48:51

It's such a lovely place, sunny, sandy beaches...

0:48:510:48:54

And free and really clean, really clean.

0:48:540:48:58

70 years before we blew it up,

0:49:000:49:02

Britain was helping Heligoland develop as a tourist attraction.

0:49:020:49:06

Well, our tourism yeah, it was started up under British rule,

0:49:080:49:13

James Symmonds started it up in the 1860's-1870's,

0:49:130:49:15

and it was encouraged by the British, that's what started it up.

0:49:150:49:19

-It was a fashionable spa town?

-It was, it was.

-A spa island.

0:49:190:49:22

It was, it was. They knew at that time we needed something like that.

0:49:220:49:26

-Healthy air.

-Healthy everything, we had everything.

0:49:260:49:29

Oh, it was marvellous, a paradise in the North Sea, isn't it?

0:49:290:49:31

And it still is.

0:49:310:49:34

Heligolanders were happy to be part of the British empire,

0:49:340:49:39

but in 1890 the island became a pawn in the game of political chess

0:49:390:49:45

played between two imperial powers.

0:49:450:49:48

Against the islanders' wishes the British government agreed a swap,

0:49:480:49:53

giving Heligoland to Germany

0:49:530:49:55

in exchange for control of Zanzibar and chunks of East Africa.

0:49:550:50:00

It seemed a good swap

0:50:000:50:02

until you consider Heligoland's strategic location in the North Sea.

0:50:020:50:08

Germany transferred the island into a massively fortified naval base

0:50:080:50:15

to use against Britain in two World Wars.

0:50:150:50:18

During the Second World War this was a fortress island.

0:50:220:50:27

Down there were these U-boat pens.

0:50:270:50:29

It's hardly surprising that Heligoland became one of the key targets for the RAF.

0:50:290:50:36

Despite many air attacks, fortress Heligoland remained a threat.

0:50:360:50:41

By 1945, as the Allies advanced deep into Germany,

0:50:410:50:46

the island still refused to surrender.

0:50:460:50:49

Then came a knock-out blow, a 1,000 bomber raid.

0:50:490:50:53

'Heligoland, German naval base and fortress island,

0:50:560:50:59

'gets a shattering attack from heavies of RAF bomber command.

0:50:590:51:03

'After this operation, it was considered unlikely

0:51:030:51:06

'that any living thing could have survived on the island.'

0:51:060:51:09

Watch the step.

0:51:120:51:14

One islander who did survive is Erich Kruss.

0:51:140:51:19

As a boy he sheltered with his family

0:51:190:51:22

in the network of bunkers beneath the island.

0:51:220:51:25

So how many metres have we gone down?

0:51:250:51:28

About 18 metres, about 60 feet.

0:51:280:51:31

-A just enormous corridor.

-Yes.

0:51:310:51:35

This was where you sheltered?

0:51:350:51:37

Yes, it was very fearful.

0:51:370:51:40

1,000 aeroplanes

0:51:400:51:41

put 7,000 bombs on us

0:51:410:51:46

in three waves for 1 hour and 45 minutes.

0:51:460:51:50

Could you hear the bombs exploding?

0:51:530:51:56

Not only hear,

0:51:560:51:57

-everything was...

-Shaking.

-Shaking, yes.

0:51:570:52:04

-So it must have been terrifying, you must have thought a bomb must have come down.

-The light went off,

0:52:130:52:19

the children screamed, the women screamed.

0:52:190:52:23

What was it like when you emerged from the bunker?

0:52:230:52:25

There was nothing left on the top of the island.

0:52:250:52:31

The devastation, this is just like matchsticks.

0:52:310:52:36

And where was your house?

0:52:360:52:38

I don't know, I don't know.

0:52:380:52:40

Were the RAF right to bomb the island like they did?

0:52:400:52:44

It was war, but three weeks before the war ended it was not necessary.

0:52:440:52:50

So when you came out

0:52:500:52:52

your house was gone?

0:52:520:52:54

I just went from the bunker

0:52:540:52:57

with my mother to the ship and we left the island.

0:52:570:53:01

Homes were reduced to rubble,

0:53:040:53:06

but much of the Nazi war machine remained intact.

0:53:060:53:10

The victorious Allies decreed

0:53:100:53:13

that all German fortifications must be destroyed,

0:53:130:53:18

so the Heligolanders were exiled from the island while the Royal Navy

0:53:180:53:22

planned the total annihilation of the Nazi installations on Heligoland.

0:53:220:53:28

In 1946, a certain Captain Skipwith of the Royal Navy

0:53:310:53:36

inspected the battered and bombed island,

0:53:360:53:40

looking at what was left of the German defences.

0:53:400:53:43

Just before he left, he gave the order,

0:53:430:53:48

"Blow the bloody place up".

0:53:480:53:50

The Royal Navy demolition team

0:53:500:53:53

were tasked with creating what became known as the big bang.

0:53:530:53:58

Nearly 7,000 tonnes of high explosives and German munitions

0:53:580:54:03

were packed into the bunkers beneath Heligoland.

0:54:030:54:06

'Zero hour was to be the normal BBC time signal, at 1 o'clock, the last pip.

0:54:060:54:10

'The naval officer in charge waits aboard the cable ship Lesso to set off the tremendous charge.'

0:54:100:54:14

BEEPS

0:54:140:54:18

'Fire!'

0:54:180:54:20

'With a flash low rumble, the whole top of Heligoland seemed to lift and shatter.

0:54:240:54:29

'The job was done.

0:54:290:54:31

'Heligoland is completely destroyed.

0:54:350:54:37

'The island will remain deserted except for birds,

0:54:370:54:40

'just a shattered rock in the North Sea, a fitting memorial to the man who led Germany to destruction.'

0:54:400:54:45

This massive explosion shook the island to its very core,

0:54:450:54:51

creating huge craters and changing the shape of Heligoland for ever.

0:54:510:54:58

The islanders wouldn't give up their battered home.

0:55:050:55:08

After much protest, it was given back in 1952,

0:55:080:55:14

and former residents like Erich returned to rebuild their lives.

0:55:140:55:19

And after over 60 years,

0:55:190:55:20

have you really forgiven the British for what they did to your island?

0:55:200:55:25

I think so, everybody has forgiven.

0:55:250:55:27

Nobody who lives today is responsible for that 60 years before.

0:55:270:55:34

See? All those people dead.

0:55:340:55:37

Of course it's ironic that we were destroying something that was once part of Britain.

0:55:370:55:42

Yes. And my father, my grandfather,

0:55:420:55:46

my grandmother, my uncle was born British.

0:55:460:55:50

Britain's had a complex relationship with the tiny island of Heligoland.

0:55:520:55:57

Bonds of blood link our two islands, broken by the tragedy of war.

0:55:570:56:03

I'm on the final leg of my journey.

0:56:150:56:17

In my quest for happiness Danish style,

0:56:190:56:22

I'm off to visit a very contented community on the island of Fano.

0:56:220:56:27

My destination, the Isle of Fano, Denmark's oldest holiday resort.

0:56:410:56:47

Life here's laid-back, the legacy of a privileged past.

0:56:470:56:52

In 1741, this canny community clubbed together

0:56:540:56:58

and bought their island from the king,

0:56:580:57:02

and soon the good times started to roll with a whole lot of happiness ever since.

0:57:020:57:08

Originally, the island's wealth was built on ship building.

0:57:110:57:15

The money was put into bricks, mortar and thatch.

0:57:150:57:18

My quest to experience hygge in Denmark has come to a cosy conclusion.

0:57:180:57:24

For me, this place embodies what I understand of the Danish concept of hygge.

0:57:360:57:43

If it's about finding contentment in comforting, cosy places,

0:57:430:57:47

then there's definitely hygge here.

0:57:470:57:49

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:57:540:57:58

E-mail [email protected]

0:58:000:58:04

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