Chicago, The Windy City Great American Railroad Journeys


Chicago, The Windy City

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Transcript


LineFromTo

I have crossed the Atlantic,

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to ride the railroads of North America

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with my reliable Appleton's guide.

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Published in the late 19th century,

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my Appleton's general guide to North America

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will direct me to all that is novel, beautiful, memorable

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and striking in the United States.

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THEY SHOUT

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As I journey across this vast continent,

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I'll discover how pioneers and cowboys conquered the West.

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GUNFIRE

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And how the railroads tied this nation together,

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helping to create the global superstate of today.

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My rail journey across the United States from north to south

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has brought me to Chicago, Illinois, the industrial hub of the Midwest.

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At the time of my guidebook,

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amongst the smoke and steam of the late 19th century,

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a new kind of city was forged.

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It expressed its exuberance by reaching for the sky

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with architecture that turned its back on Europe.

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Here was created a distinctly American metropolis.

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I'm halfway along a route that began in Minnesota

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then followed the Mississippi River as far as Wisconsin.

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Making for the Great Lakes,

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I skirted the south-west shore of Lake Michigan

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from Milwaukee to Chicago.

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From where I'll cut a swathe through rural Illinois.

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The final leg of my journey will reunite me with Old Man River

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and the city of Memphis

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on its banks.

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This time, I am exploring in and around the nation's railway hub Chicago.

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After scanning the skyline from the Chicago River,

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I'll head to the city's fire training academy,

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make my way to Joliet to play some baseball,

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before returning downtown

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to investigate Chicago's evangelical past.

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Along the way, I make a few announcements...

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258, your train's never late!

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258, your train's never late!

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Strike out in America's national game...

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Here we go. You are looking like a natural already.

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And I am blown away by the Windy City...

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Chicago at sunset.

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Surely one of the world's most stunning cities.

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According to Appleton's,

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"Chicago ranks next in commercial importance to New York among

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"the cities of the United States."

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I suspect that Chicago would resent the comparison.

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In any case, its response is constant renewal.

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New buildings and attractions appear at a dizzying rate,

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and it defies any city to match its energy.

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-MAN OVER TANNOY:

-Ladies and gentlemen,

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in just a moment our next stop will be our final stop -

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Union Station, downtown Chicago.

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By the time of my guidebook,

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Chicago had emerged as the Midwest's major metropolis...

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Thank you.

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..and North America's greatest railroad centre.

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Today, Chicago's Union Station is still the hub of

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the United States' passenger rail network.

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I feel a special excitement when I'm coming to one of

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the world's great conurbations, my kind of town.

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Arriving in Chicago today,

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it's impossible not to be awed by its forest of high-rise buildings.

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This city has been an architectural innovator for

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the last 130 years.

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I'm navigating the Chicago River to admire

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the city's most striking structures,

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and I am boarding with architecture expert Jen Masengarb.

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Hello.

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Looking forward to this. After you, Jen.

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The modern skyscraper was born here in 1885

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when a metal-framed, ten-storey building was completed.

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It's no longer standing,

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but there's plenty left for architecture buffs.

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I suppose the best way to see Chicago's architecture is from the water.

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It is. The Chicago River is that sort of lifeblood of the city.

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Dominating us now seems to be a lot of glass-sided towers,

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highly reflective.

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This seems to be the big fashion these days.

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Even within that though you can see different eras in different ways

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that the glass was treated or different materials.

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One very beautiful thing about

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the amount of glass that has been used in the last few decades

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is that so much of the city is then reflected in those buildings.

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And as you pass by you get this kaleidoscope of the buildings,

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that they are all moving as you are moving.

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Yeah. One of the earliest buildings to do that is 333 West Wacker.

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For many Chicagoans, it's their favourite.

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Isn't that beautiful?

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One of the sounds of the cities is the trains.

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And that sound echoes all along the river.

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Union Station is right behind these skyscrapers

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and what you see underneath here are the train tracks

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with skyscrapers built on top of them

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because Chicago developed something called air rights.

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That you can actually buy the air of your neighbour's property

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and build something on top of them next door.

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It seems that the city has remained a playground for architects

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to experiment and innovate.

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Mostly the architecture we are seeing along the river is from the 20th century

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because the land along the river is precious and what happens often is

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that the buildings are demolished to build something larger and something taller.

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A skyscraper is a building designed to make the land pay.

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In the 19th century, as today,

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the high cost of land drove lofty ideas.

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The first skyscrapers were built to cope with Chicago's growing labour force

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as job-seekers piled into the city.

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Thank you for suggesting Federal Plaza because we see here

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-a range of Chicago architecture from different vintages.

-Yes.

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This lovely building behind us. Tell me about that.

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This is the Marquette Building. It was designed in 1894.

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The Marquette Building is kind of the epitome,

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a classic early Chicago skyscraper.

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About 18 to 20 stories, is kind of the typical height.

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And when you look at it,

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the Marquette Building draws our eye up.

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This is a new thought. How does the building meet the sky?

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So this generation of architects,

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they were really sort of thinking about that crown.

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Some borrowing from ancient Greece and Rome,

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some stripped of that,

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some borrowing more of kind of medieval detail.

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Was Chicago a suitable place to build tall buildings?

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I think Chicago is probably the worst place to build a skyscraper

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because Chicago has incredibly poor soil.

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It's like a clay mixture almost.

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The New York Times in 1891 likened it to a jelly cake.

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And so all the attempts through the 1880s and into the 1890s

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are to try to make the walls thinner

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and make the building lighter so that it doesn't sink so much

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-into our really poor soil.

-That is absolutely extraordinary.

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I mean, look at Chicago now. It's absolutely dominated by skyscrapers.

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In the late 19th century,

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Chicago's skyscrapers were impressive feats of engineering

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that expressed the city's triumph over calamity.

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Appleton's tells me that in October 1871,

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"Chicago was the scene of one of the most destructive conflagrations in history.

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"The flames swept with resistless fury.

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"The total area destroyed was nearly 3.5 square miles."

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This water tower was one of the few buildings to survive.

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My Appleton's tells me

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the fire originated in a small barn in DeKoven Street.

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Today the city's fire academy, on that same site,

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is a working memorial to the tragedy.

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Jerry.

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I am meeting Chicago firefighter Jerry Medina.

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Jerry, my Appleton's guidebook gives a description of the fire of 1871

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of total destruction.

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98,000 homeless, 17,000 buildings destroyed.

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-Is that accurate?

-Yes, very accurate.

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Sadly, unfortunately, 300 people also died as a result of that fire.

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How was it possible for a fire to do so much damage, do you think?

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Basically the fire was out of control.

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Back then everything was made of wood,

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plus there was no rain for several days.

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Everything was ready to burn.

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Whirlwinds of flame, known as fire devils,

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spread the blaze and the terror ever further.

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How long did it take to put out?

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It took about three days.

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The fire actually had to burn itself out.

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The flames eventually abated,

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leaving a city smouldering with anger.

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Rumours about how the fire began flew like cinders,

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settling on Irish immigrant Catherine O'Leary.

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It was said that as she milked her cow in the barn

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it kicked over a lantern,

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but historians have since suggested that her neighbour could have been to blame.

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As recently as about 15, 20 years ago,

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Mrs O'Leary was found to not to be the actual cause of the fire.

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Poor Mrs O'Leary.

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The fire was a very long time ago, but is it still, as it were,

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part of the culture and heritage of the city?

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You can ask a child about what happened in 1871 in Chicago?

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Right away, the first thing they will tell you -

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the Great Chicago Fire.

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So it is a huge, huge part of our history.

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Today the city is guarded by the largest fire department in the Midwest.

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Its firefighters respond to half a million emergency calls a year.

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Lieutenant Brett Snow is showing me what it takes

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to become one of Chicago's finest.

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Ready to rock and roll.

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-OK.

-All right.

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Into the kneeling position.

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-Into the kneeling position. There we go.

-This is kind of like...

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-using a firearm, almost, isn't it?

-Yeah.

-OK.

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The hose is under enormous pressure.

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I'm having to use great force just to keep it under control.

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I've got to imagine what it would be like to do this in a blaze

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or a terrible emergency,

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and think that guys from Chicago

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and all over do this every day of their lives.

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Wow! Certainly feeling the pressure, Brett,

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-it must be quite tiring, this?

-Yeah, it sure is.

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If you are not holding it correctly it can really wear you out fast.

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I can see that. I'm getting tired just doing this.

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Yeah, yeah.

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And for this hose there's roughly 175 gallons in a minute coming out.

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-Let's hope that deals with the fire.

-Yeah.

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-Very nice.

-Thank you, Brett.

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-I tell you what, I had a great time.

-Thank you.

-You did great.

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No fire hose can dampen my enthusiasm for the Chicago skyline.

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To see it at its best, I'm making my way to the Willis Tower,

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still widely known by its former name - Sears Tower.

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For a generation, this was the tallest building in the world.

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-WOMAN OVER SPEAKER:

-More than 24 feet per second.

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Eiffel Tower.

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The Bank of China Tower in Hong Kong.

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1,250 feet and the Empire State Building of New York.

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103 floors, 1,350 feet in one minute.

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HE LAUGHS

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Chicago at sunset.

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Surely one of the world's most stunning cities.

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One of the most iconic sights in Chicago is

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the elevated railway or L.

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They must have saved money,

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instead of going underground they build

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the railway at first-floor level. Boy, is it noisy.

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The earliest sections of the Chicago L date back to 1892,

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making this the second-oldest metro system in the United States.

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As railroads fanned out across the United States

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they helped to create a shared culture.

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And one past-time soon emerged as the nation's favourite.

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-MAN OVER SPEAKER:

-Let's play ball.

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Baseball.

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To investigate the national game,

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I'm going to strike out to Joliet, Illinois, base myself there,

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although it's not exactly on my home run.

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Today baseball is a multibillion dollar industry.

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But around the time of my guidebook, it was in need of reform.

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At the home of the Joliet Slammers,

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I'm hearing how the modern game was born

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with baseball historian David Shiner.

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David, do you have any theory as to why in the United States

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it's baseball that takes over rather than say a game-like cricket?

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Well, you know, Michael, it's seen as an American home-grown game

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and it's in the American psyche. It goes the deepest, historically.

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Baseball was a game that you could play with any amount of people

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at any time, on any kind of a field.

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A sport that was easily taken onto the frontier,

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you just needed a piece of wood and a ball, and there you go.

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MICHAEL CHUCKLES

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The first written rules for baseball date from the 1840s

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and the first professional club was established in 1869.

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Places like Chicago were no longer frontier towns,

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but busy industrial cities.

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As the game became professional,

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it became more of a game for immigrants,

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a game for people from all walks of life.

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Frankly, there were a lot more ruffians than gentlemen when

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the game became professional,

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and that lasted all through the 19th century.

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What could be done about the fact that

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it was becoming a bit of a rough and tumble game?

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Well, it had a lot of negative side effects.

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People being beaten up, a lot of gambling, a lot of roughness.

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So in 1876,

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the first league of clubs was founded

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and that was by a Chicago businessmen named William Hulbert.

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He started the notion that

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owners needed to pay for their clubs to be in the league,

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that there would be penalties if they didn't play their games

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in a fair way, and that the players, similarly,

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could be fined or suspended or even expelled from the game.

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And that was very controversial,

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but it led to the structure the National League

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that still exists 140 years later,

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so I think he has to be given a lot of credit.

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On my travels in Europe, I found that cricket and soccer, football,

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were very much stimulated by the railways.

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-Was that true of baseball?

-Absolutely, Michael.

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The railroads were vital to the spread of baseball.

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When you have a team having to go from Baltimore to Chicago,

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nearly 1,000 miles, the railroads are essential.

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People who played amateur ball liked to watch professionals

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so it became a spectator sport as well as a participant sport.

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In fact, by the time of the National League, often teams would

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schedule their games around when the trains arrived.

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I'm better suited to being a spectator than a participant,

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but I'm stepping up to the plate with coach Ryan Clevenger.

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So how do I hold the bat?

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Well, you are a right-handed batter,

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so you're going to want to put your left-hand at the bottom of the bat

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and your right-hand on top of there. You want to get them close together.

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If there is any separation it is harder to swing the bat.

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You want to start with the bat on your right shoulder.

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-On my right shoulder.

-And then as he's throwing the ball,

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-then you are going to start swinging.

-OK.

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Oh!

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Oh! There we go.

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You're looking like a natural already.

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Enough humiliation. I'm out of here.

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After that mediocre performance,

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I was hardly expecting to see my name in lights.

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Number 99, it's time to dine. Number 98. Thank you, ma'am.

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99. 106. 108, there's no more wait, the food tastes great!

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Hello, sir. Welcome to Portillo's.

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Thank you very much. I'm on a pilgrimage.

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Portillo is my name.

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-Oh, congratulations.

-Yeah, I feel I've come to my spiritual home.

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OK, good. Well, welcome. We're glad to have you.

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Tell me, what should I eat?

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-Italian beef sandwich.

-That sounds good.

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-Yes, OK.

-You can do that with peppers.

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So we have hot peppers or sweet peppers.

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-Hot peppers.

-Hot peppers, OK.

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Would you like any cheese on that? Mozzarella or cheddar?

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-Mozzarella.

-Mozzarella, OK.

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-Thank you.

-Any French fries with that?

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-We have got fries with cheese.

-No, I think that will be quite enough.

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-Thank you. Thank you very much.

-OK.

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So, the founder was called Portillo?

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Yes, Dick Portillo.

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Wow! And how did he start out?

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In 1963 in a trailer with no running water.

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How amazing.

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221, your order it out, done! 221.

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I see that when they're calling the orders, the girls are making rhymes,

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like you do in bingo in Britain.

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That's exactly what we do. Do you want to give it a shot?

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I'd love to. Thank you very much indeed.

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You are a Portillo, no problem. We'll give it a go.

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Can I get a short steak and a chocolate shake?

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258, your train's never late.

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258, your train's never late!

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256, the train to the sticks!

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Hi, how are you?

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You enjoy that now.

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247, train to heaven.

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283, in the land of the free.

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283.

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HE CHUCKLES

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Look at this understated little number.

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It's good. Italian beef in a restaurant with a Spanish name.

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It's fundamentally American.

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At the time of my Appleton's guidebook, Chicago's architects

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were not the only ones with celestial aspirations.

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Religious fervour swept mid-19th century North America.

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In the fast-growing cities,

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there were mass conversions and congregations in the thousands.

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Here in Chicago,

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this Christian evangelism was led by two men

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who played a starring role in the heavenly revival.

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The guidebook tells me that,

0:21:500:21:51

"The Great Tabernacle on Munro Street,

0:21:510:21:54

"where Messrs Moody and Sankey held their meetings,

0:21:540:21:57

"will see 10,000 persons and is used for sacred concerts

0:21:570:22:02

"and other religious gatherings."

0:22:020:22:04

This more modern church, even today, bears the name of Dwight Moody.

0:22:040:22:09

And in the words of the psalm,

0:22:090:22:11

I will "enter into his gates with thanksgiving."

0:22:110:22:14

The tradition of sacred concerts is clearly alive

0:22:300:22:34

and stomping at the Moody Church.

0:22:340:22:37

CHOIR SINGS

0:22:410:22:43

To discover how music helped to make Moody and Sankey household names,

0:22:450:22:49

I'm meeting church member Daniel Favero.

0:22:490:22:52

Choir, that was really beautiful.

0:23:160:23:18

May I say an enormous thank you to you?

0:23:180:23:21

That was magnificent.

0:23:210:23:23

Daniel, I have come here in pursuit of Messrs Moody and Sankey.

0:23:230:23:29

Who were these gentlemen?

0:23:290:23:31

On the vernacular of the day, 1880,

0:23:310:23:33

they were called workers in souls.

0:23:330:23:36

They were polar opposites in personality and background.

0:23:360:23:39

DL Moody was uneducated, he grew up in rural western Massachusetts.

0:23:390:23:44

Ira Sankey was the son of a bank president in Philadelphia.

0:23:440:23:47

How did two such diverse people meet?

0:23:470:23:50

They were both delegates to a YMCA meeting in Indianapolis, Indiana

0:23:500:23:54

in 1870 and there was a lull in the meeting,

0:23:540:23:57

DL Moody was sort of unconventional -

0:23:570:23:59

he hated it when it got boring,

0:23:590:24:01

and he said that suddenly a man stood up

0:24:010:24:02

and started singing and that was Ira Sankey.

0:24:020:24:05

So DL Moody ran up to him afterwards and he said,

0:24:050:24:07

"Come join my ministry in Chicago."

0:24:070:24:10

What sort of ministry had Moody had until then, then?

0:24:100:24:14

Well, he actually started as a Sunday school teacher

0:24:140:24:16

in the neighbourhood of Chicago called Little Hell.

0:24:160:24:20

It was a very rough neighbourhood. They called it Little Hell,

0:24:200:24:22

they said, because there is nothing there but bad men and worse women.

0:24:220:24:26

Moody hoped that Sankey's music

0:24:270:24:30

could help him to reach into Chicago's slums.

0:24:300:24:33

He believed that to save the inner-city poor

0:24:350:24:37

the message must be accessible.

0:24:370:24:39

DL Moody would speak extemporaneously,

0:24:420:24:44

he would relate to the audience, but he was very unorthodox.

0:24:440:24:47

He would not even preach with notes.

0:24:470:24:49

He said, "If I can't keep it in my head,

0:24:490:24:51

"I can't expect them to keep it in their head."

0:24:510:24:53

Is it fair to think of this as being the start of that

0:24:530:24:56

particular brand of American evangelism

0:24:560:24:58

-that's known across the world?

-I think so.

0:24:580:25:01

In the past, there had been large groups of evangelistic meetings, if you will,

0:25:010:25:06

but it was never planned the way these were.

0:25:060:25:09

You know, with a large auditorium,

0:25:090:25:10

have trained people to pray with people and they walk the aisle,

0:25:100:25:14

have contemporary worship music.

0:25:140:25:16

All these things were innovations of DL Moody.

0:25:160:25:19

A British traveller following my guidebook

0:25:210:25:24

might well have already experienced Moody and Sankey's evangelism.

0:25:240:25:28

In 1873,

0:25:290:25:30

the pair crossed the Atlantic on an international mission.

0:25:300:25:34

They were travelling from church to church throughout England, Wales,

0:25:340:25:37

-Scotland and Ireland.

-By train, I hope?

0:25:370:25:39

By train. They passed out flyers, saying,

0:25:390:25:42

"Come hear DL Moody preach the gospel,

0:25:420:25:44

"and come hear Ira Sankey sing the gospel."

0:25:440:25:46

It started very small, but it grew very quickly.

0:25:460:25:49

And by the time they got back to London after their two-year circuit,

0:25:490:25:53

in the last seven months,

0:25:530:25:55

over two million people came to hear him preach.

0:25:550:25:58

Extraordinary.

0:25:580:25:59

Moody and Sankey's British tour offered them both celebrity

0:25:590:26:03

and inspiration.

0:26:030:26:05

On a railway journey from Glasgow to Edinburgh,

0:26:050:26:08

Sankey spotted a poem in the newspaper

0:26:080:26:11

which sparked perhaps his best loved hymn.

0:26:110:26:14

The Ninety and Nine.

0:26:140:26:16

# There were ninety and nine that safely lay

0:26:160:26:20

# In the shelter of the fold

0:26:200:26:25

# But one was out on the hills away

0:26:250:26:29

# Far off from the gates of gold

0:26:290:26:35

# Away on the mountains wild and bare

0:26:350:26:39

# Away from the tender Shepherd's care

0:26:390:26:46

# But all through the mountains, thunder-riven

0:26:500:26:54

# And up from the rocky steep

0:26:540:26:58

# There arose a glad cry to the gate of heaven,

0:26:580:27:03

# "Rejoice! I have found My sheep!"

0:27:030:27:07

# And the angels echoed around the throne

0:27:070:27:12

# "Rejoice, for the Lord brings back His own!"

0:27:120:27:17

"Rejoice, for the Lord brings back His own!" #

0:27:170:27:25

The moment I stepped off the train at Union Station in Chicago,

0:27:290:27:33

I was aware of entering a throbbing metropolis.

0:27:330:27:36

This city shrugged off a devastating fire

0:27:360:27:39

and architecturally reached for the sky.

0:27:390:27:43

Its expansion upwards and outwards continues apace.

0:27:430:27:48

Its opulence shimmers from its glass-sided buildings,

0:27:480:27:52

reflected in Lake Michigan.

0:27:520:27:54

It stands proud and tall at the crossroads of America.

0:27:540:27:59

Next time, I gravitate to the ultimate marshalling yard...

0:28:010:28:07

So I call this the economy of motion.

0:28:070:28:10

Recreate the original brownie...

0:28:100:28:12

That is wicked!

0:28:120:28:13

Well done, Chef.

0:28:130:28:15

And discover the solution to the city's pollution...

0:28:150:28:19

Imagine when you have 30,000 cubic feet per second

0:28:190:28:21

of sewage coming out here. It will be beautiful.

0:28:210:28:24

A great image.

0:28:240:28:26

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