Pennod 6 Arfordir Cymru

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-The coastline of Cardigan Bay.

-A most wonderful part of the world.

-With striking peninsulas,

-flowing rivers...

-..and sheltered coves.

-The stories are no

-less striking than the geography.

-This is Arfordir Cymru.

-In this programme, we travel

-from Llangrannog, past Aberporth...

-..before turning the corner

-at Gwbert and heading to Cardigan.

-Howell Harris had little

-to say about this area...

-..in the eighteenth century.

-He said sailors were better off...

-..shipwrecked

-in Pagan lands than here...

-..because locals

-were so uncivilised.

-I'm glad to say,

-I've witnessed none of that.

-The people are welcoming and

-the natural resources are wonderful.

-South of Llangrannog

-is the perfect cove of Penbryn.

-It entices someone

-to delve deeper inland...

-..and further back in time.

-The River Hoffnant

-flows to the sea on Penbryn beach.

-I'm heading inland

-to discover more...

-..about a story that's

-a favourite with local children.

-The River Hoffnant winds down

-through a sheltered wooded valley.

-In the darkness, a secret lurks.

-I've been searching for this -

-Carreg Samson.

-Numerous stones across the country

-are linked to a different story.

-It is said that Samson the giant

-was ploughing the land above me.

-A stone was stuck in his shoe.

-He removed it

-and threw it down the hill.

-As it rolled over and over

-it collected material around it...

-..and grew until it was this size.

-It came to rest

-right in the middle of the river.

-Not far from Carreg Samson,

-on open land...

-..is another stone,

-set by a man, not a giant this time.

-This is Carreg Corbalengus.

-Many questions have been asked

-about this stone.

-It stands above Penbryn,

-overlooking the sea.

-The inscription on the stone

-has been translated from Latin.

-"Here lies Corbalengus,

-the Ordovician."

-Creating memorials like this

-were an Irish tradition.

-Corbalengus had fought

-against the Irish.

-This use of their tradition

-was a way to mock the enemy...

-..in his memory.

-That's why an emphasis

-was placed on his nationality.

-Corbalengus the Ordovician...

-..a Brythonic tribe

-from Mid Wales during Roman times.

-The Ordovicians challenged the enemy

-and recorded the story in a rock...

-..to show that our forefathers

-are still here.

-It is possible to walk from Penbryn

-to Tresaith along the beach...

-..but it's fraught with danger.

-You can easily become surrounded

-by the sea.

-Many a sunbather has been caught

-by the tide over the years.

-On one occasion, at the beginning

-of the last century...

-..two innocent boys drowned,

-caught by the sea's merciless tide.

-There is a record of Tresaith's

-existence in the 16th century...

-..but no-one can agree

-about the name.

-Some say Abertaldwyn,

-others say Abersaith.

-The name of the pub, The Ship...

-..is said to have been used

-as the village's name.

-Later, the name Traeth Saith

-was adopted...

-..and the River Saith

-was so called...

-..since the river seemed to head

-towards the sea like an arrow.

-Some still argued

-during the last century...

-..that the name Tresaith

-was inappropriate.

-Into this cauldron of debate,

-in 1900...

-..came the novelist Allen Raine.

-Allen Raine was the pseudonym

-of Ann Adaliza Beynon Puddicombe.

-Originally from Newcastle Emlyn,

-she was well-known in England...

-..but here,

-overlooking these beautiful views...

-..she wrote

-some of her greatest works.

-"Over the sea came fitful gusts

-that curled the tips of the waves...

-"..into little white streaks.

-"Scarcely distinguishable

-from the seagulls...

-"..that were settling down

-on the surface in expectation....

-"..of what the north wind

-might bring."

-Yes, the wind and sea have inspired

-all kinds of people and stories.

-Some stories and traditions

-belong entirely to local people.

-The Cardigan Bay Coast Path

-stretches 60 miles...

-..from Ynyslas to Cardigan.

-As I head towards Aberporth...

-..I realise that some treasures

-can only be found on foot.

-This large, dark, menacing ravine

-is called Ogof Dwnsh.

-Dwnsh comes from the

-English word dungeon.

-It's easy to see why.

-There's 110 feet between me

-and the sea churning underneath me.

-Back in the 19th century...

-..local boys were challenged

-to leap across the gorge.

-I've been willing to do whatever

-was needed during this series...

-..but I won't do that!

-At one time,

-Aberporth was an important port...

-..linking Wales to Ireland.

-More recently,

-fishing was an important industry...

-..as the sea provided a living.

-John Davies has lived here

-throughout his life.

-He has a keen interest

-in the village's history.

-John, you were born in Aberporth.

-Yes, in a shop called London House.

-I used to be called

-John London House.

-There's always been a link

-between the village and the sea.

-The only work available here was

-farming, fishing or working at sea.

-Since when has your family lived

-in Aberporth?

-My father was born in the village.

-In the Ocean.

-His father was the master

-of the smack Ocean...

-..so he built a house

-and called it Ocean Villa.

-His father

-was the first captain of the Ocean.

-That takes you all the way back

-to the 18th century.

-There's a rich history

-of stories and names.

-There's an old map

-in front of us here.

-What can we see,

-in terms of caves and gorges...

-..as we travel from Tresaith

-over to Aberporth?

-What do we have here?

-As you walk along the coast path

-from Tresaith...

-..you come to Traeth Bach-y-Llety.

-On the map,

-it says Traeth Bach-yr-helyg...

-..but the original name

-was Llety'r Bwci.

-You pass Ogof Dwr Nel...

-..and then, around the corner,

-Ogof Goron.

-Do you know why they called

-it Ogof Goron?

-They used to say years ago...

-..that a bet was made that you

-couldn't dive under the arch.

-I can only think that someone

-never made it to the other side.

-That was the 'coron' (crown).

-I can't think of any other reason.

-Then you come to Ogof Pen Traeth

-Bach as it was originally called.

-One of the local children,

-Charlotte who lived in Henllys...

-..she fell into the cave

-when she was 14 years old.

-She lived for a while

-but died not long after.

-It was later called Ogof Charlotte.

-I can see Ogof Dwnsh on the map.

-I passed Ogof Dwnsh on my way here.

-You didn't leap across Ogof Dwnsh?

-You didn't leap across Ogof Dwnsh?

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-Yes, at one time.

-Yes?

-You're a far braver man than me.

-When I was younger.

-After passing Ogof Dwnsh,

-there's another cove.

-What's this?

-Ogof Castell Llidi - Castell Llidi,

-the only thing I can think of...

-..on the main road

-is Castell Prudd, Castell y Dolig...

-..and it goes back to Norman Times.

-There was a fort to protect

-the village, that's what I think.

-A fort made out of earth?

-Yes, that's where I think

-Llidi came from.

-That's the only explanation

-I can give.

-As you come around

-Ogof Castell-Llidi...

-You reach the beach.

-There's a rock that stretches

-into the sea called Carreg Duon.

-I think it's called Carreg Duon...

-..because of all the mussels -

-they're black.

-Today, you won't find any mussels

-there and it's no longer black.

-It's far lighter today.

-I see, I see.

-Then you come to a small island

-called Gilfach Garreg.

-How important

-do you think is preserving...

-..the old names and history

-of Aberporth?

-Preserving history is important.

-Yes, every village should do so.

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-We've reached Mwnt,

-from the English word mountain.

-At the foot of the mountain

-is Eglwys y Grog.

-It was an important church

-for pilgrims at one time...

-..but not every story here

-is as peaceful.

-It was a tradition

-during times of emergency...

-..for the church bells to be rung

-to warn local people of danger.

-Threats were none more real than

-when the Flemish attacked in 1155.

-This report from the beginning of

-the 20th century paints a picture...

-..of the scenes

-that would have been witnessed here.

-"We come without a stretch

-of imagination...

-"..picture to ourselves the landing

-at this silent and solitary nook.

-"Strong body of foreign warriors

-ready to hazard limb and life...

-"..in the attainment

-of their object.

-"Gradually driving the opposed

-natives up the steep cliffs...

-"..and grassy slopes

-to the strongholds.

-"We can also imagine

-the blowing of the war horn...

-"..as well as the gathering together

-of the neighbouring clans...

-"..thereby bringing about

-an accession of strength...

-"..which eventually carried

-everything before them...

-"..and brought the total defeat

-of the invaders."

-There was a celebration

-of this part-mythical victory...

-..on the first Sunday

-of every January.

-Sul Coch y Mwnt (Red Sunday),

-the red relating to the bloodshed.

-There were ball games and wrestling

-with numerous injuries sustained.

-There was also cock-fighting.

-The bank behind me

-was named Banc Ceiliogod.

-Heading back inland...

-..we pass Gwbert.

-It's a name that's caused people

-much confusion.

-According to some, it refers

-to Saint Cubert from Cornwall.

-Like so many stories along

-our coast, no-one is entirely sure.

-This is very common

-across such ancient land.

-It's inevitable that some

-explanations will be lost...

-..but in some places, if there

-is a little evidence for a name...

-..you can delve deeper

-and discover some wonderful stories.

-Research

-by Professor David Thorne...

-..shows that the name

-Glan Mor Ladis...

-..comes from a time when men and

-women bathed on separate beaches.

-For while,

-at the end of the 19th century...

-..there was an attempt to develop

-Gwbert into a Blackpool or Brighton.

-These mobile bathing huts

-were extremely popular.

-The beach had achieved a status

-above that of a normal beach.

-They also ensured

-that men and women...

-..didn't see each other

-changing into their bathers.

-Up to 1860, it was legal for men

-to bathe in the nude.

-It was very popular

-in this part of the world.

-This quote in The Observer

-from June 15, 1806...

-..refers to this part of Ceredigion.

-"Natives of both sexes

-are much addicted to sea bathing...

-"..during the summer nights.

-"On reaching the beach...

-"..they strip and take a promiscuous

-plunge without any ceremony.

-"The noise they make

-prevents the sleep of those...

-"..who do not partake

-of aquatic orgies."

-A stone's throw away

-is the town of Cardigan.

-Some say it was once called

-Dyngeraint.

-We can't confirm this,

-nor can we confirm...

-..the validity of one of

-the area's most wonderful stories.

-Allen Raine was one of the first

-to write about these two men.

-John and Daniel Evans

-from nearby Y Ferwig.

-A century ago they claimed

-they had vegetable oil...

-..which cured cancer.

-The author writes pessimistically

-about a Mrs Davies, Y Felin...

-..being treated by them.

-She hoped the brothers wouldn't

-make her any worse than she was.

-Davies, and three others,

-were eventually completely cured.

-The brothers' account book

-refers to some of them.

-"Mr David Evans

-cancer in the nose and neck.

-"Cured - 8."

-Another patient - "Too weak.

-Went home without paying anything.

-"Mr Beynon, cancer in the back.

-Cured and paid. 6."

-When these events happened,

-Allen Raine acknowledged...

-..that there maybe be truth

-to these stories.

-The practice was established

-in the early 20th century.

-The town's popularity increased

-as people visited them...

-..in search of a cure.

-The brothers died without passing

-the secret on to anyone...

-..apart from David, John's son.

-He had some success in America.

-Aneurin Bevan called

-for a scientific inquiry...

-..into the ingredients of the oil

-but it was never done.

-David was then prosecuted

-by a local woman....

-..who claimed he had poisoned her.

-She may have had a point

-as locals claimed...

-..there was arsenic in the oil.

-David withdrew to the shadows

-having had enough of public life.

-David died in 1961, without

-revealing his secret to anyone.

-The recipe is under lock and key

-in a bank, apparently.

-If it reappears one day...

-..it could rekindle interest

-in the lives John and Daniel Evans.

-The stories of the River Teifi...

-..are no less remarkable than

-the lives of the Evans brothers.

-Caradog Jones was once

-the river's head bailiff.

-Is it nice being back

-on the banks of the Teifi?

-It reminds me of the wonderful time

-I had on this river.

-Tell me about your work

-as a head bailiff.

-I'd visit the other bailiffs

-as the head bailiff.

-I'd help them out,

-I'd spend time out at sea.

-A bit of everything.

-It was a happy time.

-It was a young man's job, it became

-a burden for me towards the end.

-You had to be fit to chase poachers.

-It always upset me

-to see a poacher escaping.

-How did you go about

-trying to catch the poachers?

-I tried to find a place

-that was close to the river...

-..a pool where the poachers

-couldn't flee to the other side.

-That was the secret.

-Here, they would jump into the river

-because some of them were drunk.

-I remember one being swept

-into the net as I rescued him.

-You rescued the poacher?

-He was saved in his own net?

-He was drunk! He was washed

-into his net as the tide came in.

-I took him to the hospital -

-he tried to fight the doctor.

-What a palaver.

-It was a lot of fun.

-We had great days out

-in Tregaron court.

-When the bailiff lost a case

-to the poacher's solicitor...

-..they'd applaud in court!

-The poachers would call

-their grandmothers as witnesses.

-They were characters.

-I know you have a keen interest

-in the tributaries of the Teifi.

-Especially the Tweli.

-There's something about it that's

-different to all other rivers.

-Every stream that feeds the Tweli

-starts with the letter G.

-There's the Gwyddil...

-..Gwair, Graig and Groes.

-Up to Pencader, Gran.

-Then the Gwen feeds in.

-There are farm names too...

-..Blaen-Gwen, Nant-y-gragen,

-Blaen-Gyfre, Nant-y-gof.

-Do you know

-why they all start with G?

-I don't know.

-Further up, you have

-Gelli, Glas and Gwenffrwd.

-It's rather strange.

-Incredible. You also have an

-interest in names along the Teifi.

-This is some collection.

-These are names that haven't changed

-in at least the past 60 years.

-There are rocks

-either side of the river.

-Take Pwll Jac

-in Maesycrugiau for example.

-Men from London know about Pwll Jac

-because they fished there.

-There are hundreds of names.

-I think there are 136 in all.

-Really? Wow.

-These are established names.

-These rivers

-have a strong current...

-..not only large rivers such

-as this, but further inland too.

-There have been instances

-of great damage.

-A tributary which fed the Cothi

-in Gwernogle was called Clydach.

-There was a blind man on the bridge.

-He heard the commotion

-and didn't know what it was.

-It was a tidal wave.

-A girl managed to save him

-from the water...

-..and the first thing she saw

-was a cow floating over the bridge.

-A cow floating over the bridge?

-The bridge collapsed in the end.

-It eventually smashed

-the chapel door.

-When the minister walked into the

-chapel, he saw trout on the seats.

-The seats were like a trap,

-catching them.

-It was a strange sight to see.

-It was a strange sight to see.

-

-The chapel was a fish trap.

-Halcyon days.

-Halcyon days.

-

-Oh, yes.

-The Teifi is journey's end after we

-began on the Dwyryd in North Wales.

-I've heard a variety of accents...

-..and visited common and holy places

-along the way.

-We've seen striking landscapes...

-..towns and villages...

-..and vast wastelands...

-..along the border where

-the sea's swell meets the land.

-It comes as no surprise

-that our coastline...

-..produces so many stories...

-..as legends, superstitions

-and little secrets...

-..hiding behind the place names.

-We've always headed towards the sea

-to relax, play, work...

-..and live our lives.

-We've encountered some incredible

-stories on this journey...

-..along the coastline

-and there's always more to discover.

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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