Deserts Planet Earth


Deserts

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A third of the land on our planet is desert.

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These great scars on the face of the Earth appear to be lifeless,

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but surprisingly none are.

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In all of them, life manages somehow to keep a precarious hold.

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Not all deserts are hot.

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Fifty-mile-an-hour winds,

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blowing in from Siberia, bring snow to the Gobi Desert in Mongolia.

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From a summer high of 50 degrees centigrade,

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the temperature in mid-winter can drop to minus 40,

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making this one of the harshest deserts of all.

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Few animals can survive these extreme changes.

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Wild Bactrian camels, one of the rarest mammals on the planet,

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and perhaps the hardiest.

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Their biggest problem is the lack of water, particularly now in winter

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when the little there is, is locked up as ice.

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Surprisingly, snow here never melts.

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The air is just too cold and too dry for it to do so.

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The sun's rays turn it straight into vapour.

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It evaporates.

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But it is the only source of water, so Bactrian camels eat it.

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Elsewhere in the world, a camel at a waterhole can drink

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as much as two hundred litres during a single visit.

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Here the strategy is to take little and often, and with good reason,

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for filling the stomach with snow could be fatal.

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The camels must limit themselves to the equivalent of just ten litres a day.

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LOUD MATING CALL

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Winter is the time for breeding.

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This extraordinary performance is a male Bactrian camel's way

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of attracting the attention of a passing female.

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In summer, the camels can't stray far from waterholes,

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but now, with mouthfuls of snow lying everywhere,

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they can travel widely in search of mates.

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Today, less than a thousand of these desert specialists remain in the wild.

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The Gobi, hostile though it is, is their last stronghold.

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There is no other desert quite like the Gobi.

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But why is this place a desert?

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There is one simple and massive cause - the Himalayas.

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Clouds blowing from the south hit this gigantic barrier.

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As they are forced upwards, so they empty their moisture on the

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mountain slopes, leaving little for the land on the other side.

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From space, deserts are very conspicuous.

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Dunes of sand, hundreds of miles long, streak their surface.

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With no cloak of vegetation to conceal them,

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strange formations are exposed in the naked rock.

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Africa's Sahara is the largest desert of all.

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It's the size of the United States

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and the biggest source of sand and dust in the entire world.

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Sandstorms like these appear without warning

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and reduce visibility for days over areas the size of Britain.

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Dromedaries, single-humped camels, take these storms in their stride.

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The heavy sand rises only a few metres above the ground,

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but the dust can be blown five thousand metres up into the sky.

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The ferocious wind, armed with grains of sand, is the agent that shapes all deserts.

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Reptiles have armoured scaly skins that protect them from the stinging grains.

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For insects, the bombardment can be very severe indeed.

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The only escape is below the surface.

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As the winds rise and fall, swirl and eddy, so they pile the sand into dunes.

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These sand seas can be hundreds of miles across.

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In Namibia,

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the winds have built some of the biggest dunes in the world.

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Star dunes, like these, can be three hundred metres high.

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Grains swept up the flanks are blown off the crests of the ridges, so it's only the tops that are moving.

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The main body of these dunes may not have shifted for 5,000 years.

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Few rocks can resist the continuous blast of the sand-carrying wind.

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These outcrops are standing in Egypt's White Desert,

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but they will not do so for much longer.

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They are being inexorably chiselled away and turned into more sand.

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Now lumps of heavily-eroded rocks have been marooned in a sea of sand.

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These jagged pyramids, a hundred metres tall,

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were once part of a continuous rocky plateau.

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The blasting sand will eventually eliminate them altogether.

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The relentless power of the wind ensures that the face of a desert

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is continually changing.

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But there is one constant presence...

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..the desert sun.

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The sun's heat and power to evaporate water has had a profound

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effect on the bodies and habits of everything that lives here.

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This sun, potentially, is a killer,

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and the red kangaroos must acknowledge that.

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Right now, while the sun is low,

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there is no immediate cause for concern.

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But this situation won't last long.

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Australia is the world's most arid continent

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with blistering daytime temperatures.

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Every hour the temperature rises by five degrees centigrade.

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Soon the heat will reach a critical point.

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Any kangaroo out in the open is in serious danger of overheating.

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In the full sun, the temperature on the ground soars to 70 degrees.

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By midday, the radiation is so intense they must take shelter.

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In the shade, they are shielded from much of the sun's energy,

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but their body temperature can still rise.

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So they lick saliva onto their forearms,

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where there is a network of blood vessels

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close to the surface of the skin, and as the saliva evaporates, their blood is cooled.

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This thermal image shows just how effective the process is.

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The blue areas on the body are the cooler parts.

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As the saliva dries, it has to be replaced, and this is a real drain

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on the kangaroo's body fluids.

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Even in the shade, the earth is baking hot,

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so the kangaroos dig away the warmed top soil to get at

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the cooler ground beneath.

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By staying in the shade and licking to control their body temperature,

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kangaroos manage to get through

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the hottest part of the day without heat stroke.

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But for the majority of desert animals,

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this strategy would not be enough for survival.

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The extraordinary ears of the fennec foxes of Africa radiate heat,

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but the animals have another way of keeping cool.

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They spend their days underground and only emerge at sunset.

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Darkness brings huge changes.

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In the Sahara, the temperature can drop as much as

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thirty degrees during the night,

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so it is cool enough to allow these desert fox cubs to play.

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All sorts of creatures now appear,

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including some really unexpected ones.

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Toads have permeable skins and would quickly die from desiccation

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out in the daytime heat.

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It is only now that they can leave shelter.

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The same is true for scorpions,

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even though their shells are actually watertight.

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In fact, most small desert creatures are nocturnal, so it's only now

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that you can judge just how much life there can be in a desert.

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But moisture lost, even at night, has to be replaced some time,

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somehow.

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And that problem dominates the lives of all desert dwellers.

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The Atacama in Chile. This is the driest desert in the world.

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Some parts may not see rain for fifty years, and with such a record

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you would expect the place to be completely barren.

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These are South America's camels - guanacos.

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They are very good at conserving moisture,

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but they nonetheless need a regular supply of water.

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They get it partly from cactus flowers,

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but that explanation raises another question.

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How do the cacti survive without rain?

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Hot winds suck all the moisture from the surface of the land.

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Clearly there must be something else that takes the place of rain.

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The secret is a cold sea current that runs parallel to the land.

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The cold water cools the moist, warm air above it

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and that produces banks of fog.

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At the same time, wind blowing on to the shore sweeps the fog inland.

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Before long the cacti are dripping with dew.

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The fog is so regular that moisture-loving lichens

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are able to grow on the cacti and they absorb liquid like a sponge.

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In a land of almost no rain,

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these precious drops are life-savers for many different creatures.

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Further inland, the air remains so warm that its moisture

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does not condense, so this slender strip of desert

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is virtually the only part of the Atacama where life can exist.

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And without the fog, this land too would be empty.

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The guanacos make the most of the dew,

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but it will not remain for long.

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In an hour or two,

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the sun will have burnt it off and dried the surface of the cacti.

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The Sonoran Desert in Arizona is not quite so dry as the Atacama.

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Some rain does fall,

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but it is infrequent and when it does arrive,

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animals and plants have to be ready to make the most of it.

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And it's coming.

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When the summer monsoon blows in, the giant saguaros, one of the

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biggest of all cacti, are ready to take full advantage of it.

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After a rainstorm, the saguaro's long shallow root system sucks up the water,

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and the pleats on its trunk enable it to expand rapidly.

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When full, a saguaro stem can store up to five tons of water,

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and that's enough to see it through many months of drought.

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The trunks of these huge plants provide homes for the Gila woodpecker.

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But birds are not the only animals to benefit

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from the presence of the cacti.

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During four weeks of the summer

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the saguaros bloom - at night - to attract visitors.

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The pollen and nectar with which these flowers are loaded attract

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long-nosed - and long-tongued - bats.

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The bats left Mexico a few days earlier to escape the heat of summer

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and are on their way north to the southern United States.

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To get there they have to cross the Sonoran Desert.

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But the desert is so big

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that for most of the year they would be unable to cross it.

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Now, with the saguaro in bloom, they can refuel on the way.

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So the saguaro's success in developing a way to store water

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is now crucial

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to most of the animals that live or even travel through this land.

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The scarcity of rain determined the shape of this icon of the desert,

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but water, scarce though it is,

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has also, like the wind, shaped the land itself.

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In the deserts of Utah,

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ancient rivers flowing across sandstone country

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steadily widened their canyons

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until now the land between them has been reduced

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to spires and pinnacles.

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With little or no soil to retain water on the surface of the land,

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life here is scarce indeed.

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And when resources are limited, conflict is never far away.

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These are Nubian ibex,

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and they are squaring up for a duel.

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And when trouble starts, a smart ibex knows that the best thing to do

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is to gain higher ground.

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These are actually subordinate male ibex

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but their fights are, nonetheless, serious.

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Losing one might mean never getting the chance to breed - ever.

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When competitors are evenly matched, as they are here,

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duels can last for an hour.

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In this heat, the effort is truly exhausting,

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PANTING GRUNTS

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but victory here will gain important ranking points

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on a male's way to the top.

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There's so much at stake that not all play fair.

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The battle has produced a winner,

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but the ultimate prize is not his yet.

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That currently belongs to the dominant male ibex.

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His rank earns him the loyalty of a harem of females

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and they follow him closely as he travels across this desert

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searching for food and water.

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He doesn't have to waste time looking for mates -

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they're his for the taking.

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So he can concentrate, with them, on keeping fit and healthy.

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Lizards are desert specialists,

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but here, their numbers are extraordinary.

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These crevices in South Africa contain

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the highest density of lizards in the world.

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They are called flat lizards, for obvious reasons,

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and they flaunt their multi-coloured bellies in territorial disputes.

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He's made his point, and now it's time to find some food.

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As the day warms up, the lizards move away from their cracks

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and head down to the bottom of the gorge.

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Their goal is the river.

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There is no food at the edge, but this desert river holds a secret.

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Each day, blackfly rise from turbulent stretches of the river.

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This is what the lizards have come for.

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The blackfly never land, so the lizards have to leap for their food.

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In one day,

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each of these acrobatic little lizards may catch fifty flies.

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There are plenty of flies to go round,

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even with hundreds of lizards competing for them.

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Away from these rapids,

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flat-lizard populations are found in much smaller numbers,

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but here, one unusual abundance has produced another.

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Deserts are created by the lack of water,

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but what actually kills animals here is not heat or thirst

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but lack of food.

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DEEP VOCAL RUMBLE

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So how on earth does a plant-eater this size survive

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in a place apparently totally devoid of vegetation?

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Elephants in Namibia are the toughest in Africa,

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and they need to be.

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What little food exists is so dispersed

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that these elephants walk up to 50 miles a day as they travel

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up the dry river channels searching for something to eat.

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At times, the task looks truly hopeless.

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Elephants may seem out of place in this landscape,

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but they are not the only ones.

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Amazingly, lions live here too.

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In savannah country,

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huge herds of game support prides containing 20 lions or more.

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But to live here, lions have had to change their habits.

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Prides are much smaller, and their home ranges are very much bigger.

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And there's an added problem.

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Their food is always on the move.

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Like the elephants,

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the lions must travel great distances to find enough to live on.

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But lions can't go everywhere.

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They won't attempt to cross this field of sand dunes,

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and the oryx know it.

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The lions must wait for the oryx to leave the safety of the dunes -

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which eventually they must, to find food and water -

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and then the lions will ambush them.

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The elephants have found some of their favourite food.

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Grasses are the staple diet of all elephants,

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but this herd concentrates on digging up the roots,

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which have more nutrition and moisture than the stems.

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It's the sort of behaviour that can make all the difference

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in a place of serious shortages.

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Yet all this can change

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in an instant.

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The fortunes of many deserts are ruled by distant rains.

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This water fell as rain in mountains more than a hundred miles away.

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It's known as a flash flood

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and called that because the water may run for just a single day.

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It's an event that only happens once or twice a year at the most.

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The sandy river-bed acts like a giant strip of blotting paper,

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sucking up the water as soon as it appears.

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But every square metre of soil moistened by this river

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will increase the chances of survival

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for those that live here.

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Water holes are filled temporarily.

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Elsewhere in Africa, elephants drink every day,

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but the lack of water here means that desert elephants can only refill their tanks

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once every four or five days.

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Within a week the flash-flood has produced a flush of green,

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more than enough to draw the oryx out of the dunes.

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It's a rare chance for them to build up their food reserves.

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The flood has made life easier for the lions, too.

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The flesh of this oryx will keep the family going for a week at the most

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but for a while, the hunting will be easier

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now that the river channel has turned green.

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The good times for lions and oryx are brief,

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but these are the short moments that make it possible

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to live in deserts the year round.

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Death Valley is the hottest place on earth,

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yet even this furnace can be transformed by water.

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A single shower

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can enable seeds that have lain dormant for 30 years or more

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to burst into life.

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And there hasn't been a bloom like this one for a century.

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The periods of boom in Death Valley are short.

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But they're just frequent enough to keep life ticking over.

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A sudden flush of vegetation is what every desert dweller waits for

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and, when it happens, they must make the most of it.

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There is no other species on the planet that responds as quickly

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and as dramatically to the good times as the desert locust.

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Eggs that have remained in the ground for 20 years begin to hatch.

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The young locusts are known as "hoppers"

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for at this stage they're flightless.

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They find new feeding grounds

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by following the smell of sprouting grass.

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Normally it takes four weeks for hoppers to become adults

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but, when the conditions are right, as now,

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their development switches to the fast track.

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As the vegetation in one place begins to run out, the winged adults release pheromones -

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scent messages - which tell others in the group that they must move on.

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And when groups merge, they form a swarm.

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An adult locust eats its entire bodyweight every day,

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and a whole swarm can consume literally hundreds of tons of vegetation.

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They HAVE to keep on moving.

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The swarm travels with the wind.

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It's the most energy-saving way of flying.

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Following the flow of wind means that they are always heading towards areas of low pressure -

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places where wind meets rain, and vegetation starts to grow.

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As they fly, swarms join up with other swarms

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to form gigantic plagues several billion strong

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and as much as 40 miles wide.

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They will consume every edible thing that lies in their path.

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This is one of Planet Earth's greatest spectacles.

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It's rarely seen on this scale and it won't last long.

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Once the food has gone,

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the steady roar of a billion beating locust wings will once again be replaced

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by nothing more than the sound of the desert wind.

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Of all the places visited by the Planet Earth team,

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the most remote was Mongolia's Gobi desert.

0:48:110:48:14

This was the location for one of the most remarkable desert animals of all,

0:48:140:48:19

the elusive wild Bactrian camels.

0:48:190:48:22

The trip required months of planning

0:48:270:48:30

but arriving in Mongolia's capital, Ulaanbaatar,

0:48:300:48:33

was merely the start of what was to be the most challenging of shoots.

0:48:330:48:38

We're going for a two-month trip, and basically this area is so remote

0:48:380:48:42

that we take everything we need with us.

0:48:420:48:45

Two months' supply of food, fuel.

0:48:450:48:48

And in the area we are going to there is no viable source of water

0:48:480:48:51

so we have to bring that in, too.

0:48:510:48:53

It really is a quest. And the quest for camels begins today.

0:48:530:48:56

From Ulaanbaatar, the team were going to have to travel for a further five days

0:48:560:49:02

to get to where the camels live.

0:49:020:49:05

Despite its huge size, Mongolia has only 500 miles of paved road.

0:49:060:49:11

So it wasn't long before they were heading cross-country.

0:49:110:49:15

But even their off-road vehicles were to struggle in this terrain.

0:49:150:49:21

And with few vehicles, petrol stations were rather Heath-Robinson affairs,

0:49:250:49:30

without any of the usual safety considerations.

0:49:300:49:34

The Gobi desert is as large as Holland,

0:49:380:49:41

but surprisingly difficult to find without any roads or signs.

0:49:410:49:45

CONVERSATION IN MONGOLIAN AND RUSSIAN

0:49:450:49:50

The team were heading for the outer part of Outer Mongolia

0:49:500:49:54

and, in this vast, remote and rugged wilderness

0:49:540:49:57

they were going to have to find a group of animals

0:49:570:50:00

whose population numbered a mere 800.

0:50:000:50:03

The small community of Bayantorol was the gateway to the Gobi Desert

0:50:100:50:16

and home to an expert tracker called Choi Jin.

0:50:160:50:19

His skills were vital in the search for wild camels.

0:50:190:50:22

And it appeared the camels needed him, too.

0:50:220:50:25

He killed two wolves which...

0:50:250:50:27

Which killed...five?

0:50:290:50:31

-50

-camels. Two wolves killed 50 camels.

0:50:380:50:42

This is what he tells us now.

0:50:420:50:45

Choi Jin has been tracking wild camels for 50 years

0:50:450:50:49

so if anyone was going to get Henry to within filming distance of these elusive animals, then it was him.

0:50:490:50:55

Reliable vehicles were also vital to the success of the trip.

0:50:560:51:01

The team's Russian-made supply vehicle may have needed to be warmed up with a blowtorch each morning,

0:51:010:51:08

but in the event of a breakdown they would be more than covered

0:51:080:51:12

by the collection of spare parts brought along by the Mongolian drivers.

0:51:120:51:17

It was comforting to know that here was a vehicle whose engine could be rebuilt by a man with a file

0:51:170:51:24

in the middle of the Gobi desert.

0:51:240:51:27

Fortunately, they weren't depending on it for a quick getaway.

0:51:270:51:31

MOTOR GRINDS ENGINE KNOCKS

0:51:310:51:34

Since leaving Ulaanbaatar, the team had driven 1,500 miles

0:51:370:51:41

through the middle of Mongolia.

0:51:410:51:43

The supply vehicle had done the same, but they'd had to give it several days' head start.

0:51:430:51:49

But before leaving Bayantorol,

0:51:540:51:56

the team had had to deal with some local politics, as Tom explains.

0:51:560:52:01

Our interpreter...

0:52:020:52:04

decided to pick a fight

0:52:040:52:08

with the stand-in head of the park

0:52:080:52:11

and head-butted him in the face...

0:52:110:52:14

which is not ideal for relations.

0:52:140:52:17

Anyway, our driver, who was also very drunk,

0:52:170:52:22

decided that this was his chance to step in.

0:52:220:52:26

He's a big lad and...

0:52:260:52:28

He then punched our interpreter in the face.

0:52:280:52:32

Yeah, he knocked him flat.

0:52:350:52:37

Luckily, there were no hard feelings the following morning,

0:52:380:52:42

and the team were able to get on with the serious business of finding wild camels.

0:52:420:52:47

It wasn't long before Choi Jin spotted some promising signs.

0:52:470:52:53

Apparently one of the ways in which you can tell how fresh the prints are

0:52:530:52:58

is very, very small detail.

0:52:580:53:00

If he sees a small stone in the print that has got sand on it,

0:53:000:53:05

like that, he knows that it's very recent because otherwise that sand would have blown away.

0:53:050:53:10

It's very loose little grains of sand.

0:53:100:53:12

It's very small, a tiny size. That's why he is walking across such a large area.

0:53:120:53:16

Sure enough, up ahead, the team had their first sighting of wild camels.

0:53:160:53:22

They were already running.

0:53:220:53:24

Poaching has made wild camels very nervous of people.

0:53:240:53:29

They're about 3km or 4km away.

0:53:290:53:30

They spotted us from that distance. That'll be our real problem, getting close to these animals.

0:53:300:53:35

They are capable of spotting us from about 5km

0:53:350:53:38

and running for 70km in the opposite direction.

0:53:380:53:41

This is what is going to make this filming incredibly difficult.

0:53:410:53:44

But we are going to need all Henry's accomplished film skills

0:53:440:53:49

to get us close. We know he can do it.

0:53:490:53:52

-What do you think?

-..I don't know.

0:53:520:53:55

It was easy to understand Henry's doubts

0:53:570:53:59

when faced with the sheer scale of the landscape,

0:53:590:54:03

the scarcity of camels and their fear of people.

0:54:030:54:06

After their first sighting, the team saw nothing for five days.

0:54:080:54:14

So, Choi Jin told us

0:54:160:54:18

he had spotted...

0:54:180:54:20

three or four miles away, very far.

0:54:200:54:23

Can barely tell what it is.

0:54:230:54:26

Sometimes I wonder how we do it,

0:54:260:54:28

how he does it, because it's just watching patterns, changing patterns

0:54:280:54:32

and the heat haze on the horizon.

0:54:320:54:35

But at this distance, they weren't going to get any useful footage.

0:54:350:54:39

A lucky break was needed.

0:54:390:54:41

And an overnight snowstorm didn't seem to be it.

0:54:410:54:46

With the temperature plummeting to minus 20 the team - and breakfast -

0:54:460:54:50

needed a thawing out first.

0:54:500:54:52

We are having a competition to see who warms up first -

0:54:520:54:55

my hands or this frozen can of pilchards.

0:54:550:54:58

That's what it's come to.

0:54:580:55:01

Eating frozen pilchards straight out of the tin.

0:55:010:55:05

That's all we've got for breakfast.

0:55:050:55:07

I think I might pass.

0:55:070:55:09

The vehicles were useful for spotting camels but, to get close,

0:55:110:55:16

the team had to be on foot.

0:55:160:55:18

After walking hundreds of miles they were still no nearer to a sequence,

0:55:180:55:22

and it wasn't helped by having one less camel to film.

0:55:220:55:26

Gobi wolves had got to this one first.

0:55:280:55:31

They saw the car.

0:55:360:55:38

Obviously, that's a window...

0:55:380:55:40

The reflection, low sun.

0:55:420:55:46

The rear ends of running camels

0:55:460:55:48

continued to dominate the team's filming.

0:55:480:55:52

And it was beginning to cause frustrations.

0:55:520:55:54

So, no footage today.

0:55:540:55:56

They are supreme long-distance travellers,

0:55:560:56:01

these animals.

0:56:010:56:03

We are finding it difficult to keep up in the vehicle, let alone by foot.

0:56:040:56:09

I am absolutely knackered

0:56:090:56:10

and slightly annoyed that we haven't got the footage that we want the last couple of days.

0:56:100:56:17

I guess it's camels 1, film crew nil.

0:56:170:56:21

Fortunately, Choi Jin's sharp eyes remained on form.

0:56:280:56:32

And when combined with sheer dogged perseverance,

0:56:320:56:35

the team's luck finally began to change.

0:56:350:56:38

Not only did they start getting head-shots of camels,

0:56:430:56:47

but fascinating behaviour.

0:56:470:56:49

INTERMITTENT "CREAKY GATE" SQUEAKS

0:56:490:56:52

Strange mating rituals

0:56:520:56:55

and snow eating.

0:56:550:56:58

Wild camels remain one of our planet's least known animals,

0:57:000:57:04

so this unique footage was much needed publicity

0:57:040:57:08

for a species on the verge of extinction.

0:57:080:57:12

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:57:390:57:43

E-mail [email protected]

0:57:430:57:46

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