Pioneers and Firsts

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0:00:04 > 0:00:05For over a decade now,

0:00:05 > 0:00:10you've been bringing the Flog It! team your unwanted antiques and collectables,

0:00:10 > 0:00:13and we've helped you sell around £1 million worth to date.

0:00:13 > 0:00:17- 1,275.- I don't believe it! - I'm going to sell.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20Yes! I like that sound, that is the "sold" sound.

0:00:20 > 0:00:22Don't you just love auctions?

0:00:22 > 0:00:26During that time we've all learnt a great deal about the items that

0:00:26 > 0:00:28have passed through our hands.

0:00:28 > 0:00:31In this series I want to share some of that knowledge with you,

0:00:31 > 0:00:35so stand by to hear our experts' Trade Secrets.

0:01:04 > 0:01:06The world of antiques is full of wonderful

0:01:06 > 0:01:10and valuable objects of all kinds.

0:01:10 > 0:01:13But the most interesting pieces are generally those

0:01:13 > 0:01:16produced by mavericks and pioneers,

0:01:16 > 0:01:19people who dared to do things differently.

0:01:19 > 0:01:21So in today's show we are celebrating the men and women

0:01:21 > 0:01:26whose innovation and genius have left a lasting legacy.

0:01:28 > 0:01:30We get a glimpse of the true brilliance

0:01:30 > 0:01:32of Flog It's favourite maverick.

0:01:32 > 0:01:37It's probably one of the best pieces of Moorcroft I've seen on Flog It!

0:01:37 > 0:01:39At £1,500...

0:01:39 > 0:01:42- Sold!- Not bad, eh?

0:01:42 > 0:01:44One of haute couture's trendsetters

0:01:44 > 0:01:47proves to be a surprise hit at auction.

0:01:47 > 0:01:50I was flabbergasted. I think I said it three times.

0:01:50 > 0:01:513,4...

0:01:51 > 0:01:53I am flabbergasted!

0:01:53 > 0:01:59And I trace the history of a truly ground-breaking enterprise.

0:01:59 > 0:02:02It's said they hopped and skipped down Toad Lane just after midnight

0:02:02 > 0:02:06thrilled to bits that they opened their honest, Co-operative shop.

0:02:11 > 0:02:14There are some names we quite often hear on the show

0:02:14 > 0:02:17and instantly you think of William Moorcroft, George Jones,

0:02:17 > 0:02:21Geoffrey Baxter of Whitefriars Glass fame.

0:02:21 > 0:02:23You've probably got a few yourself.

0:02:23 > 0:02:24The list is a long one.

0:02:24 > 0:02:27But there's something all these people have in common

0:02:27 > 0:02:30with each other - they are all pioneers of their field.

0:02:30 > 0:02:33But what makes them worthy of the collectors' interest?

0:02:33 > 0:02:39Pioneers are probably one of the most important types of people

0:02:39 > 0:02:42because they bring about the changes

0:02:42 > 0:02:45that we need to develop as a society.

0:02:45 > 0:02:51My definition of "pioneer" is someone that goes somewhere

0:02:51 > 0:02:53that nobody has been before.

0:02:53 > 0:02:55It might be discovering a continent,

0:02:55 > 0:02:58but perhaps it's working in a new material.

0:02:58 > 0:03:02Somebody like Charles Horner, who worked out of Halifax

0:03:02 > 0:03:06and was fabulous with Art Nouveau jewellery.

0:03:06 > 0:03:10William Morris was a pioneer. Mackintosh was a pioneer.

0:03:10 > 0:03:14Anything by them would be incredibly expensive.

0:03:14 > 0:03:17Why not think in terms of Georg Jensen jewellery?

0:03:17 > 0:03:22You can buy a Georg Jensen silver ring for less than £100.

0:03:22 > 0:03:24Great names all of them.

0:03:24 > 0:03:27We've had the privilege of encountering many works

0:03:27 > 0:03:29by those pioneering craftsmen of the past.

0:03:31 > 0:03:34And we've stumbled on more modern ones too.

0:03:34 > 0:03:35At a valuation day in 2009,

0:03:35 > 0:03:39Thomas Plant got his hands on an item

0:03:39 > 0:03:42from one of the giants of 20th-century fashion.

0:03:42 > 0:03:45Tell me about it and how it came into your possession.

0:03:45 > 0:03:47Well, my grandmother gave it to me

0:03:47 > 0:03:49when I was about ten and I've had it ever since.

0:03:49 > 0:03:53I don't know much more about it other than it's Christian Dior, I believe.

0:03:53 > 0:03:56It is Christian Dior. We can see it from here.

0:03:56 > 0:03:58The mark there is Christian Dior.

0:03:58 > 0:04:02Of course that conjures up all these wonderful fashion items etc

0:04:02 > 0:04:04and high-end jewellery.

0:04:04 > 0:04:07But this is Christian Dior the costume jeweller

0:04:07 > 0:04:08we are looking at here.

0:04:08 > 0:04:11Christian Dior - after the Second World War

0:04:11 > 0:04:15he sort of established his business

0:04:15 > 0:04:20as the first global fashion house.

0:04:20 > 0:04:25You have the aspirational haute couture which the Hollywood stars

0:04:25 > 0:04:28would wear, by Christian Dior.

0:04:28 > 0:04:34And I think in the '50s and '60s his costume jewellery was aspirational.

0:04:34 > 0:04:38You could actually buy a piece of Christian Dior. He'd realised

0:04:38 > 0:04:44that there was going to be demand for his product, his design.

0:04:44 > 0:04:48And hence, that's why his costume jewellery is so good

0:04:48 > 0:04:49and desirable.

0:04:49 > 0:04:53Now, it is costume jewellery, we should explain that.

0:04:53 > 0:04:55You've got the mauve stones and the pink, and this is glass

0:04:55 > 0:04:59or diamante or paste, as we call it, on a base metal.

0:04:59 > 0:05:05"Vintage" is a new word for antiques. Vintage is very cool.

0:05:05 > 0:05:08So if you're going out to a party

0:05:08 > 0:05:11and you're putting on vintage Dior, they'll all ask,

0:05:11 > 0:05:13"Where is that from?" "Actually, it's vintage."

0:05:13 > 0:05:15It's Dior, isn't it?"

0:05:15 > 0:05:17It would probably make over £50,

0:05:17 > 0:05:21but I should have the estimate sort of £70-£100.

0:05:21 > 0:05:23If it had been...

0:05:23 > 0:05:27an unknown piece of costume jewellery, which you get

0:05:27 > 0:05:30quite a lot, I'd probably have said not worth selling.

0:05:30 > 0:05:32£20-£30, £5-£10.

0:05:32 > 0:05:36It's quite a difficult subject to sell in a traditional saleroom

0:05:36 > 0:05:39- like this, but we're going to give it a go.- OK. Here we go.

0:05:39 > 0:05:42Fingers crossed. You never know what's going to

0:05:42 > 0:05:44happen at an auction. let's check this one out.

0:05:44 > 0:05:48And as it happened, quite a few bidders also wanted to check it out.

0:05:48 > 0:05:53110. 120. 130. 140. 150. 160.

0:05:53 > 0:05:57- At 160.- Gosh! - Lady's bid now. 160. 170 now.

0:05:57 > 0:06:01160. At 160. 170 on the phone. 180.

0:06:01 > 0:06:03190 if you like. 190.

0:06:03 > 0:06:08- 200. At 200.- They absolutely love this!- They do know it's paste?

0:06:08 > 0:06:10220.

0:06:10 > 0:06:12230. 240.

0:06:12 > 0:06:15I was flabbergasted. I think I said it three times.

0:06:15 > 0:06:18- 340.- I am flabbergasted.

0:06:18 > 0:06:19Did you miss something, Thomas?

0:06:21 > 0:06:23400. 420.

0:06:23 > 0:06:25SHE GASPS

0:06:25 > 0:06:28- Do they know something we don't know?- I don't know!

0:06:28 > 0:06:31- What's going through your mind right now?- Oh, I can't believe it!- Money!

0:06:31 > 0:06:33Good old Nana!

0:06:33 > 0:06:36At £440. It's on the phone at 440...

0:06:38 > 0:06:41- Incredible! £440. Angela, that's wonderful!- Thank you so much.

0:06:41 > 0:06:45- That's great.- Good old Nana, eh? - Yeah, good old Nana!

0:06:45 > 0:06:47I can get something really nice with that.

0:06:47 > 0:06:49I am flabbergasted.

0:06:49 > 0:06:50Auctions are a real education

0:06:50 > 0:06:54and whenever I see a piece of Christian Dior

0:06:54 > 0:06:58costume jewellery now, I give it a lot more attention than I used to.

0:06:58 > 0:07:01Me, too, Thomas!

0:07:01 > 0:07:04Since that auction I won't pass a piece of paste jewellery

0:07:04 > 0:07:06without checking it out to see

0:07:06 > 0:07:08if it bears one of the big fashion house names.

0:07:08 > 0:07:12Without doubt it was the mark of the pioneering designer Dior

0:07:12 > 0:07:15which made Angie's bracelet fly.

0:07:15 > 0:07:19Now, Elizabeth Talbot knew she was on to a winner when she came across

0:07:19 > 0:07:25a piece of pottery by a designer who is a firm favourite on this show.

0:07:25 > 0:07:27I did like Beryl's vase.

0:07:27 > 0:07:28Her Moorcroft vase was a delight.

0:07:28 > 0:07:32It's probably one of the best pieces of Moorcroft I've seen on Flog It!

0:07:32 > 0:07:34What can you tell me about it?

0:07:34 > 0:07:38My parents had it as a wedding present in 1929,

0:07:38 > 0:07:40so it's been around all my life.

0:07:40 > 0:07:42'William Moorcroft was a pioneer to the extent'

0:07:42 > 0:07:46that his methods of production were very individual,

0:07:46 > 0:07:49from the handcrafting of the pot on the wheel through to the

0:07:49 > 0:07:50tube lining, a bit like decorating a cake.

0:07:50 > 0:07:53Throughout the 20th century his designs

0:07:53 > 0:07:57and his factory's successive designs have remained very much

0:07:57 > 0:08:00accessible and relevant to the generations that have followed on.

0:08:00 > 0:08:04It's a very distinctive and quite a rare pattern by Moorcroft.

0:08:04 > 0:08:06I have to hold my hands up at this point

0:08:06 > 0:08:09and say I can't remember the name of the pattern.

0:08:09 > 0:08:12But it is one of the rarer patterns.

0:08:12 > 0:08:16The whole methodology of production was very pioneering

0:08:16 > 0:08:19and it hasn't been bettered or really improved on in terms of that

0:08:19 > 0:08:21type of pottery since the late 19th century.

0:08:21 > 0:08:24His factory is renowned for the double firing.

0:08:24 > 0:08:28So the pot with the colour was fired

0:08:28 > 0:08:31and then the clear glaze was put on top and then it was fired again.

0:08:31 > 0:08:35And that's what's really lifts those marvellous colours out

0:08:35 > 0:08:37and makes it so vibrant and distinctive.

0:08:37 > 0:08:41What do you think it might be worth, offered to the market?

0:08:41 > 0:08:46Well, I would have thought it has to be at least £150-£200,

0:08:46 > 0:08:49but I think it might be more than that.

0:08:49 > 0:08:50Well, it might be, yeah.

0:08:50 > 0:08:52It's rather charming

0:08:52 > 0:08:55when people underestimate the value of their items,

0:08:55 > 0:08:58and it makes my job so much easier and far more enjoyable

0:08:58 > 0:09:01when I can break good news rather than having to beat them

0:09:01 > 0:09:04down from high expectations which are not achievable.

0:09:04 > 0:09:08I would like to see this sell for between £700 and £1,000.

0:09:11 > 0:09:13- Does that please you?- Yes!

0:09:13 > 0:09:17And the man whose job it was to make good on Elizabeth's estimate

0:09:17 > 0:09:22was Flog It! regular Will Axon. So what did he make of the vase?

0:09:22 > 0:09:24This was a nice early piece.

0:09:24 > 0:09:28A William Moorcroft piece, signed on the base, an impressed Moorcroft.

0:09:28 > 0:09:30The shape was quite interesting,

0:09:30 > 0:09:35that sort of subtle baluster vase, which is very desirable.

0:09:35 > 0:09:39You can value them to a certain degree on the more general patterns, by size and shape.

0:09:39 > 0:09:42- OK.- But I suspect if she had known the name of the pattern,

0:09:42 > 0:09:45which incidentally is Moonlit Blue,

0:09:45 > 0:09:47I mean, at £700-£1,000

0:09:47 > 0:09:50they'd be queuing up with the chequebooks at that sort of estimate.

0:09:50 > 0:09:52- I would.- Yeah.

0:09:52 > 0:09:58I've got interest. At 500. 550. 600. 650. 700.

0:09:58 > 0:10:01At 700. And it's in the market. 750. 800.

0:10:01 > 0:10:09850. 900. 950. 1,000. 1,100. 1,200. 1,300.

0:10:09 > 0:10:11- They absolutely love it.- 1,400.

0:10:11 > 0:10:151,450. It all helps. 1,500.

0:10:15 > 0:10:19And another 50. At 1,500 I'm bid here. Try me again, sir.

0:10:19 > 0:10:22At £1,500 I'm bid here. At 1,500.

0:10:22 > 0:10:24Who else is in now? At £1,500. Are you sure?

0:10:24 > 0:10:30I shall sell it. The hammer is up. On commission then, at £1,500...

0:10:30 > 0:10:35- Sold!- Not bad, eh? What are you going to put all that money towards?

0:10:35 > 0:10:40- Go on a train journey to Austria. - Oh, are you?- Oh, how romantic!

0:10:40 > 0:10:44This particular vase sold very well indeed, partly because of the

0:10:44 > 0:10:49pattern, which is relatively rare, so a very choice collector's piece.

0:10:49 > 0:10:53It was a nice size and the pattern suited the shape

0:10:53 > 0:10:55and the condition was great.

0:10:55 > 0:10:57Yes, Beryl's vase certainly had a lot going for it,

0:10:57 > 0:11:02especially the name Moorcroft, whose items always do the business.

0:11:02 > 0:11:06There are of course other pioneering potters. Take Clarice Cliff,

0:11:06 > 0:11:10she was a leading businesswoman whose Jazz Age designs

0:11:10 > 0:11:11bucked the trend.

0:11:11 > 0:11:13Today there's a huge market for her work

0:11:13 > 0:11:16and we see many pieces on the show.

0:11:16 > 0:11:18- The magic name of Clarice Cliff. - Absolutely.

0:11:18 > 0:11:21Which is so desirable and so collectable.

0:11:21 > 0:11:24Clarice Cliff is an old Flog It! favourite.

0:11:24 > 0:11:27If you're eager to become a Clarice Cliff collector,

0:11:27 > 0:11:31get to know your subject. When buying always check condition.

0:11:31 > 0:11:34This is key. But it's also worth researching the pattern.

0:11:36 > 0:11:39I've never seen this in this blue colour before.

0:11:39 > 0:11:43You'd normally see this colour in reds and greens.

0:11:43 > 0:11:45Clarice Cliff always does well at auction,

0:11:45 > 0:11:48but some of her rarer designs can fly.

0:11:48 > 0:11:502,200.

0:11:50 > 0:11:53Gosh, this is rare! They know something we don't know, Philip.

0:11:53 > 0:11:552,600. 2,700.

0:11:55 > 0:11:582,800.

0:11:58 > 0:12:01Are we all done at £2,700?

0:12:01 > 0:12:07Hammer's gone down. What a wonderful moment. £2,700!

0:12:08 > 0:12:09What a result!

0:12:09 > 0:12:12But it isn't just the great designers like Clarice Cliff

0:12:12 > 0:12:14who demonstrated a pioneering spirit.

0:12:14 > 0:12:18It was also the merchants who sold their wares.

0:12:18 > 0:12:22In 1875 a new London emporium opened its doors.

0:12:22 > 0:12:26It quickly became known for its eclectic and cutting-edge stock.

0:12:27 > 0:12:33Arthur Lasenby set up Liberty's, which was a quite new

0:12:33 > 0:12:38and innovative type of department store at that time.

0:12:39 > 0:12:44And his association with the finest craftsmen

0:12:44 > 0:12:49and artists of the day certainly showed in the goods that he sold.

0:12:50 > 0:12:53He wanted to sell things which were, erm, innovative.

0:12:55 > 0:12:57The most exciting goods, the best quality goods.

0:12:59 > 0:13:04They are made of pewter and the pewter is hand-hammered.

0:13:04 > 0:13:07They have these asymmetric squares on them

0:13:07 > 0:13:12and we have the little enamelled medallions in the middle.

0:13:12 > 0:13:16So they are aesthetically pleasing.

0:13:16 > 0:13:22If we look on the back, we can see that these are called Tudric.

0:13:22 > 0:13:27Tudric was the name for the Arts And Crafts pewter

0:13:27 > 0:13:31that was made for Liberty & Company.

0:13:31 > 0:13:34We had all sorts of boxes.

0:13:34 > 0:13:38We had we had frames of clocks, Arts And Crafts, Art Nouveau -

0:13:38 > 0:13:42these were the themes, the feeling that these items had.

0:13:42 > 0:13:45- Where did you get them? - Well, they belong to my son, really.

0:13:45 > 0:13:50- I'm just bringing them in on his behalf.- Where did he get them?

0:13:50 > 0:13:53- I believe he got them at a boot sale.- A car boot story, I love them!

0:13:53 > 0:13:55How much did you pay for them?

0:13:55 > 0:13:57Not a lot, knowing my son.

0:13:57 > 0:13:59Probably under a tenner, I'd think.

0:13:59 > 0:14:05I would put an auction estimate on these of £60-£80.

0:14:05 > 0:14:07They may do more than that.

0:14:07 > 0:14:13We do have a pair and they do have the Tudric name on them.

0:14:13 > 0:14:16Anita was confident that the car boot napkins were going to

0:14:16 > 0:14:18make a good return on their money.

0:14:18 > 0:14:21What did auctioneer Claire Rawle think?

0:14:21 > 0:14:24I love it if something has Liberty on it because you know it is

0:14:24 > 0:14:28going to appeal across the board and is going to make good money.

0:14:28 > 0:14:32That name is just so popular.

0:14:32 > 0:14:38And this one I have to start away at £100.

0:14:38 > 0:14:43- At 100.- Wow.- At 100. Do I see 110 in the room? At £100.

0:14:43 > 0:14:48110. 120. 130. The bid is in the room now at £130.

0:14:49 > 0:14:54At £130. Are you all done? Selling then at 130...

0:14:54 > 0:14:56- 130.- The hammer's gone down.

0:14:56 > 0:14:59Do you know, I wish it was as easy to turn

0:14:59 > 0:15:02£4 into £130 just like that every day of the week.

0:15:03 > 0:15:05It was a good price for the napkin rings.

0:15:05 > 0:15:10I felt they made good money and it was down to the Liberty's name.

0:15:10 > 0:15:15When you see the name Liberty and Tudric on an item, you know

0:15:15 > 0:15:18that it's going to soar.

0:15:19 > 0:15:23So the next time you're trawling a car boot, jumble sale or a

0:15:23 > 0:15:26charity shop, it's definitely worth keeping an eye out for this stamp.

0:15:28 > 0:15:31But what other innovative names are worth considering?

0:15:31 > 0:15:36Well, Rene Lalique was a great pioneer in 20th-century glass-making.

0:15:36 > 0:15:40And he was widely copied as a result afterwards by other glass-makers.

0:15:40 > 0:15:44But they never managed to achieve the sort of design quality

0:15:44 > 0:15:48and the production quality that Lalique used to achieve.

0:15:48 > 0:15:51There was quite a range of glass that was produced - bowls

0:15:51 > 0:15:55and vases and, of course, car mascots.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58Sue, very nice to see you here in Hereford Cathedral.

0:15:58 > 0:16:00Has this come off one of your cars?

0:16:00 > 0:16:03Unfortunately not, because I think he would have gone on a Rolls-Royce.

0:16:03 > 0:16:07- HE LAUGHS - Right! He's a Lalique mascot.

0:16:07 > 0:16:09He's a falcon, known as the Faucon.

0:16:09 > 0:16:15- Yes, yes.- Designed in 1925, I believe.- Oh, really?

0:16:15 > 0:16:19And we've got the moulded Lalique mark just there.

0:16:19 > 0:16:21What you did in those days, of course,

0:16:21 > 0:16:23you didn't just have your Rolls-Royce with your

0:16:23 > 0:16:25silver lady or whatever on the front,

0:16:25 > 0:16:27you'd get your own mascot that you fancied for your car.

0:16:27 > 0:16:31So you'd go and you say you wanted want a falcon or an eagle or a fox,

0:16:31 > 0:16:33and then you'd have that done.

0:16:33 > 0:16:36So they weren't made for specific cars,

0:16:36 > 0:16:39they were made for the people who then bought them for their cars.

0:16:39 > 0:16:41Condition, the chip to the beak,

0:16:41 > 0:16:45which obviously drastically compromises the value.

0:16:45 > 0:16:46There were often damaged, of course.

0:16:46 > 0:16:50A glass mascot on front of a car isn't going to last long,

0:16:50 > 0:16:53and I would have thought a few of them probably got pinched.

0:16:53 > 0:16:56I think in good condition, this is £500's worth.

0:16:57 > 0:17:03- I would have thought about 400-ish. - £400-£500 in good condition.

0:17:03 > 0:17:07- But because of the chip, I'd halve it, probably.- As much as that?

0:17:07 > 0:17:11- So 200 to 300, I'd think, is sensible.- Really?

0:17:11 > 0:17:14- That's interesting.- I think so. - I would have thought less.

0:17:14 > 0:17:18- You'd have thought less?- Yes. - Less than 200?

0:17:18 > 0:17:19Well, that's what I'd just guessed.

0:17:19 > 0:17:23Well, I figure 200 to 300 is a sensible guide on it.

0:17:23 > 0:17:25There's a huge demand for all sorts of Lalique,

0:17:25 > 0:17:29especially the early Lalique, and especially car mascots, actually.

0:17:29 > 0:17:33But I'm acutely aware of the fact that any damage -

0:17:33 > 0:17:37particularly on a piece of glass, that can't be restored, it can't

0:17:37 > 0:17:40be made good, it's always going to have that chip on its beak -

0:17:40 > 0:17:43I thought that would drastically reduce the price.

0:17:43 > 0:17:46Was Adam right? Time to find out.

0:17:47 > 0:17:51- I'm bid £500.- That's a good start.

0:17:51 > 0:17:52At £500 only.

0:17:52 > 0:17:54At 520.

0:17:54 > 0:17:57- Twice the price already!- £520 only.

0:17:57 > 0:17:59520.

0:17:59 > 0:18:01550 on the telephone. 580.

0:18:01 > 0:18:03On the net, 580.

0:18:03 > 0:18:08- That's the beauty of auctions, isn't it?- Two people or more...- Exactly.

0:18:08 > 0:18:09600 on the telephone.

0:18:09 > 0:18:13620 on the net. 650. 680.

0:18:13 > 0:18:14700.

0:18:15 > 0:18:18£700 only, on the telephone.

0:18:18 > 0:18:19720.

0:18:21 > 0:18:22At £720...

0:18:22 > 0:18:25On the net at 720.

0:18:25 > 0:18:26Is there any more?

0:18:26 > 0:18:29£720 and done...

0:18:29 > 0:18:32- Thank you. - It's made its money. 720.

0:18:32 > 0:18:34It was damaged. Um...

0:18:34 > 0:18:36But I'm not surprised it made what it did

0:18:36 > 0:18:39just because of the strong areas of collecting.

0:18:39 > 0:18:44- That's fabulous, Sue.- I'd have got 700-800 if it was perfect. - That's fabulous.

0:18:44 > 0:18:46I never thought it would make anything like that.

0:18:46 > 0:18:49Indeed, I had undercooked the estimate.

0:18:49 > 0:18:52Partridge values falcon too low.

0:18:53 > 0:18:56We are quite familiar with the work of Rene Lalique on Flog It!

0:18:56 > 0:18:59And often we see high prices realised at auction.

0:18:59 > 0:19:03But Sue's car mascot, that took us all completely by surprise.

0:19:03 > 0:19:05It had double the appeal.

0:19:05 > 0:19:08The Lalique collectors were fighting it out

0:19:08 > 0:19:10with the car mascot enthusiasts.

0:19:10 > 0:19:14And there really is a huge market out there for the rarer designs.

0:19:15 > 0:19:22In 2011 a Rene Lalique mascot of a fox sold for around £125,000.

0:19:22 > 0:19:26And if you're interested in pioneering makers like Lalique,

0:19:26 > 0:19:29what should you be aware of?

0:19:29 > 0:19:31Never underestimate the value of a good name.

0:19:31 > 0:19:34It can increase the worth of a collectable exponentially.

0:19:34 > 0:19:36Incredible! £440.

0:19:36 > 0:19:40- Angela, that's wonderful! - Thank you so much, that's great.

0:19:40 > 0:19:43If you're investing in pieces from one of the leading potteries,

0:19:43 > 0:19:46consider shape, colour and rarity of pattern

0:19:46 > 0:19:49to find a winner.

0:19:49 > 0:19:51And always think out of the box.

0:19:51 > 0:19:55It's not only the designers' names you should keep an eye out for.

0:19:55 > 0:19:58The association with an innovative retailer like Liberty

0:19:58 > 0:20:00can help a collectible soar.

0:20:06 > 0:20:09Liberty never revealed the names of its designers,

0:20:09 > 0:20:12but between 1899 and 1912,

0:20:12 > 0:20:16there was one prolific artist on its books whose work was so distinctive,

0:20:16 > 0:20:20his name just couldn't be kept secret.

0:20:20 > 0:20:24It's made by Liberty and the famous designer Archibald Knox

0:20:24 > 0:20:26and when you put those two names together,

0:20:26 > 0:20:29- of course it's a very, very collectible field.- Yeah.

0:20:29 > 0:20:33The nice thing with Knox's work is it's very different.

0:20:33 > 0:20:36You can see in his designs almost immediately

0:20:36 > 0:20:40if it's an Archibald Knox piece, the way it's organic,

0:20:40 > 0:20:41the enamelling is wonderful,

0:20:41 > 0:20:45you get a very rich texture in the enamelling,

0:20:45 > 0:20:47which is very appealing and which, of course,

0:20:47 > 0:20:50adds a lot of value to the pieces.

0:20:50 > 0:20:53And when Knox collectibles come up for sale,

0:20:53 > 0:20:55they achieve great prices.

0:20:55 > 0:21:00All done at £430? Any advance on 430? 430.

0:21:00 > 0:21:03They've done it, £430. That'll do you, won't it?

0:21:03 > 0:21:04Oh, yeah, champion, there.

0:21:07 > 0:21:11Archibald Knox was born on the Isle of Man in 1864.

0:21:11 > 0:21:15At a young age, he joined the newly-opened Douglas School of Art,

0:21:15 > 0:21:18where he developed a lifelong interest in Celtic design.

0:21:20 > 0:21:22His creative talent blossomed

0:21:22 > 0:21:25and he designed a huge range of both ornamental

0:21:25 > 0:21:28and utilitarian objects - clocks, jewellery,

0:21:28 > 0:21:31tea sets, boxes, garden ornaments,

0:21:31 > 0:21:35ink wells, carpets, fabrics and even gravestones.

0:21:36 > 0:21:39His work at Liberty made him a household name.

0:21:39 > 0:21:41He was one of their leading designers,

0:21:41 > 0:21:44creating items for its Pewter Tudric range

0:21:44 > 0:21:47and the Cymric range, made from precious metals.

0:21:47 > 0:21:52Knox's sense of his Celtic ancestry can be seen in the stylised knots

0:21:52 > 0:21:54decorating many of his wares.

0:21:54 > 0:21:58These were often intertwined with flowering Art Nouveau motifs.

0:21:58 > 0:21:59What I particularly like about it

0:21:59 > 0:22:03are these little sort of Art Nouveau, heart-shaped roundels here,

0:22:03 > 0:22:04which are rather nice.

0:22:05 > 0:22:09So what do you need to know if you're interested

0:22:09 > 0:22:11in collecting items by Archibald Knox?

0:22:11 > 0:22:13Get to know your subject.

0:22:13 > 0:22:16Although Knox's Liberty pieces weren't signed,

0:22:16 > 0:22:19his designs often shout his name, but if in doubt,

0:22:19 > 0:22:21look at a pattern number,

0:22:21 > 0:22:24which can be related to a known book of Knox designs.

0:22:25 > 0:22:30When considering one of Knox's silver items from the Cymric range,

0:22:30 > 0:22:32check for a clear hallmark

0:22:32 > 0:22:37and make sure the item hasn't been altered or isn't a cast copy.

0:22:37 > 0:22:39Pewter is far softer than silver,

0:22:39 > 0:22:42so with Knox's items from the Tudric range,

0:22:42 > 0:22:46consider the clarity of the design and the original patination.

0:22:46 > 0:22:48You should also take into account

0:22:48 > 0:22:51any wear to the pattern from over-polishing.

0:22:51 > 0:22:55If you're only going to invest in one Knox collectible,

0:22:55 > 0:22:58then his clock cases in either silver or pewter

0:22:58 > 0:23:00are a timeless favourite,

0:23:00 > 0:23:04especially those which incorporate enamels into the decorative scheme.

0:23:10 > 0:23:14Pioneers work across all areas of society, not just in design.

0:23:16 > 0:23:18In mid-19th century Rochdale,

0:23:18 > 0:23:22the Industrial Revolution brought benefits but also misery,

0:23:22 > 0:23:26with long working hours, low pay, grinding poverty and hunger.

0:23:28 > 0:23:30But those desperate living conditions

0:23:30 > 0:23:32proved to be a force for good.

0:23:32 > 0:23:35Back in 2007, I went to find out more.

0:23:36 > 0:23:39A radical group of young men who, appalled at what they saw,

0:23:39 > 0:23:42decided to offer the people of Rochdale an alternative,

0:23:42 > 0:23:45a different way to feed their families and a chance

0:23:45 > 0:23:47to escape the appalling poverty

0:23:47 > 0:23:50and the conditions that most of them faced.

0:23:50 > 0:23:53These young men were called the Rochdale Pioneers

0:23:53 > 0:23:56and it was here 160 years ago

0:23:56 > 0:24:01that their story began, right here in Toad Lane.

0:24:01 > 0:24:02In fact, this building,

0:24:02 > 0:24:06number 31, is regarded as the home of the Co-op.

0:24:06 > 0:24:09This is where the Co-op began.

0:24:09 > 0:24:11Let's go in.

0:24:14 > 0:24:18So who were the men who started the Co-op, the Rochdale Pioneers?

0:24:18 > 0:24:20Well, I've come to find out

0:24:20 > 0:24:23and I'm here to meet the Co-op's historian, Dorothy Greaves.

0:24:23 > 0:24:26- Hello, Dorothy.- Hello.- Thank you so much for talking to me today.

0:24:26 > 0:24:29Where did it all start and why?

0:24:29 > 0:24:33Well, it started because of the absolute poverty in this area.

0:24:33 > 0:24:37People were starving because wages had gone right down from, say,

0:24:37 > 0:24:40up to £2 a week to five shillings, six and ninepence.

0:24:40 > 0:24:44When you had eight children, six and ninepence didn't go very far.

0:24:44 > 0:24:46Of course, shop keepers used to adulterate their food

0:24:46 > 0:24:47to make more profit.

0:24:47 > 0:24:50What, give the wrong weights and the wrong measures?

0:24:50 > 0:24:51They put sand in the oatmeal,

0:24:51 > 0:24:54plaster of Paris and chalk in the flour,

0:24:54 > 0:24:58- brown earth in the cocoa.- Really?! - Leaves from the trees in the tea.

0:24:58 > 0:25:02And, of course, they put the blobs of lead on the back of the scales.

0:25:02 > 0:25:05Now, everybody knew the lead was there, of course they did,

0:25:05 > 0:25:08but everybody was in debt to the shopkeepers.

0:25:10 > 0:25:13Angered by the poverty the people of Rochdale faced,

0:25:13 > 0:25:17the Pioneers decided to save a small amount of their wages each week

0:25:17 > 0:25:20so they could start their own co-operative shop.

0:25:21 > 0:25:25They got £28 together and started looking for an empty shop

0:25:25 > 0:25:27and then they came across this building.

0:25:27 > 0:25:30So then it was a question of, "Right, lads, what's next?"

0:25:30 > 0:25:33"Ee, well, we better do summat wit' t'walls."

0:25:33 > 0:25:34"What about a counter?"

0:25:35 > 0:25:38"I think a few planks and two barrels will do it."

0:25:38 > 0:25:40- Incredible, isn't it? - And then they bought some scales.

0:25:40 > 0:25:44No lead on these scales. This was an honest co-operative, of course.

0:25:44 > 0:25:48So tell me about the very first opening day.

0:25:48 > 0:25:50- What happened? - That was a red-letter night.

0:25:50 > 0:25:51- Oh, a night?- Oh, indeed.

0:25:51 > 0:25:54Yes, don't forget these men had to do their own jobs during the day.

0:25:54 > 0:25:56They couldn't give their jobs up,

0:25:56 > 0:25:58so they were supposed to open at seven o'clock,

0:25:58 > 0:26:01but there was such a big crowd waiting outside making such a noise,

0:26:01 > 0:26:03all the cheeky doffers from the mill shouting,

0:26:03 > 0:26:05"Come on, when are you going to open?"

0:26:05 > 0:26:06"Hurry up, what are you selling?"

0:26:06 > 0:26:08"Come on, it's dark, it's cold! Come on!"

0:26:08 > 0:26:10All that noise made these men nervous.

0:26:11 > 0:26:15The three anxious Pioneers in the shop that night were

0:26:15 > 0:26:18James Smithies, Billy Cooper and Sam Ashworth.

0:26:18 > 0:26:22Seven o'clock came and went, got to ten to eight, still haven't opened.

0:26:22 > 0:26:26James said, "Come on, you lads, who's going to open the door?"

0:26:26 > 0:26:29"Oh, no," they go.

0:26:29 > 0:26:32So he went round and he opened the door wide.

0:26:32 > 0:26:35There was such a rush forward from outside to see what was happening.

0:26:35 > 0:26:38They heard so many stories, but what do they see?

0:26:38 > 0:26:40This tiny dark room.

0:26:40 > 0:26:42Just a few flickering candles.

0:26:42 > 0:26:44Nine sacks on the floor.

0:26:44 > 0:26:46And a bit of butter on the end of the counter.

0:26:46 > 0:26:50One or two ladies walked in, then they walked out.

0:26:50 > 0:26:54Then an old lady walked in and she asked for sugar.

0:26:54 > 0:26:57And that was the very first sale here.

0:26:57 > 0:27:01They went on to have a lovely evening and actually took five shillings and fourpence.

0:27:01 > 0:27:04- I mean, how great can you get? - Yeah, history was made.- Indeed.

0:27:04 > 0:27:07It said, they hopped and skipped down Toad Lane just after midnight,

0:27:07 > 0:27:12thrilled to bits that they had opened their honest co-operative shop.

0:27:12 > 0:27:17So what happened when the group realised this was a roaring success?

0:27:17 > 0:27:20One of the big things they did was to decide that

0:27:20 > 0:27:232.5% of their profits would to go education.

0:27:23 > 0:27:26- They realised knowledge is power. - It is.

0:27:26 > 0:27:28So they actually had a school for their members upstairs.

0:27:28 > 0:27:29They did so many things.

0:27:29 > 0:27:33And then, eventually they decided, let's have a nice big department store."

0:27:33 > 0:27:38So by 1867, they bought a piece of land higher up Toad Lane

0:27:38 > 0:27:41and they built a magnificent department store.

0:27:44 > 0:27:46What an inspirational story.

0:27:46 > 0:27:49The Rochdale Pioneers proved what can be achieved

0:27:49 > 0:27:52when people come together and work for a common cause.

0:28:00 > 0:28:03The world of antiques would be a poorer place

0:28:03 > 0:28:06without the talent and vision of those rare individuals

0:28:06 > 0:28:11whose pioneering approach pushed the boundaries of their craft.

0:28:11 > 0:28:14- Oh!- Not bad, eh?!

0:28:14 > 0:28:16And there's little doubt

0:28:16 > 0:28:19that the astonishingly innovative work they produce

0:28:19 > 0:28:24will continue to be sought after for many more years to come.

0:28:24 > 0:28:26Well, that's it for today's show.

0:28:26 > 0:28:29I hope you've enjoyed it, so go out there, buy some antiques,

0:28:29 > 0:28:32have some fun and put some of this knowledge to good use.

0:28:32 > 0:28:34And see you next time for more Trade Secrets.