:00:18. > :00:25.Hello and welcome to The One Show, Best Of Britain with Lucy Siegle
:00:25. > :00:32.and Matt Allwright and the chance to see our favourite The One Show
:00:32. > :00:36.films. We're in the Cairngorms National
:00:36. > :00:41.Park. Isn't it beautiful? I love it. It is the biggest National Park in
:00:41. > :00:46.Britain. Twice the size of the lake district. Which is in itself very
:00:46. > :00:50.big. Here you get some of the UK's most exciting species, otters,
:00:50. > :00:57.ospreys, wildcats. Not to mention the Scottish cross bill. Don't
:00:57. > :01:02.forget. If you look in the rivers and the lochs, you may catch a
:01:02. > :01:08.glimpse of the superfish of the Highlands? Is it a bird or a plane?
:01:08. > :01:13.No, it is just a fish! For just a few weeks every year, our Scottish
:01:13. > :01:17.rivers play host to a wildlife story packed with drama and the
:01:17. > :01:24.ultimate determination. Because, this is a great time of
:01:24. > :01:32.the year to see Atlantic salmon making incredible leaps up weirs
:01:32. > :01:35.and waterfalls. Believe me, they will have a crack at anything!
:01:35. > :01:40.These salmon are trying to head home back up the very rivers that
:01:40. > :01:44.they were born. It is the final chapter of a massive migration.
:01:44. > :01:51.Most of the salmon you see leaping will have swum all the way to
:01:51. > :01:57.Greenland and back, dodging the jaws of sharks, seals, humans and
:01:57. > :02:02.all sorts of other predators. These are the lucky ones.
:02:02. > :02:07.Salmons spend years feeding at sea, but when they return they are
:02:07. > :02:13.focused on one thing, getting upriver to breed. That means battle
:02:13. > :02:17.against these mighty pitfalls, it looks exhausting, but in true The
:02:17. > :02:23.One Show spirit, I'm prepared to take the plunge. I'm going to
:02:23. > :02:33.attempt the impossible, trying to swim the last leg of a salmon's
:02:33. > :02:37.
:02:37. > :02:43.epic journey upstream. Wish me good luck! It's very, very cold! Argh!
:02:43. > :02:47.And like me, the salmon don't mind this chilly water, in fact, they
:02:47. > :02:54.use it as a tool to navigate their way home.
:02:54. > :02:59.The way that salmon try to find the exact river in which they were born
:02:59. > :03:07.is by using the chemical signature in each river, so basically, they
:03:07. > :03:10.sniff their way home. It smells like the River Tay to me! Even in
:03:10. > :03:16.this relatively calm stretch of water, the current is whipping
:03:16. > :03:26.along at ten miles an hour and I'm struggling. The only way I'll make
:03:26. > :03:27.
:03:27. > :03:35.it to the rapids is to cheat. But not even Michael Phelps could
:03:35. > :03:38.cope with these currents. I did say it was impossible. I went
:03:38. > :03:43.into the middle there where the stream was stronger. I must have
:03:43. > :03:47.gone about 20 metres before I was exhausted.
:03:47. > :03:53.I'm also very cold and salmon do that for hundreds of miles from the
:03:53. > :03:58.sea right to their spawning grounds much higher up. How-do they do it?
:03:58. > :04:03.OK. So maybe they are a little more streamlined than I am, but when
:04:03. > :04:08.they get the chance they rest in deep pools like this one, monitored
:04:08. > :04:13.by fisheries manager, David. Basically, the fish have swum up,
:04:13. > :04:17.they will stay in a nice deep pool that is secure and secluded and
:04:17. > :04:21.stay here basically until they are ready to spawn or ready to move
:04:21. > :04:26.upstream. What is the maximum height that
:04:26. > :04:30.they can jump over rapids? They have been recorded to jump up to 11
:04:30. > :04:35.feet. I think that is the British record, but that is really
:04:35. > :04:38.exceptional for a clear jump. Most of it is less than that.
:04:38. > :04:45.Back upstream is this river's largest obstacle, the National
:04:45. > :04:49.Trust for Scotland's Black Lynn waterfall. It is a five metre wall
:04:49. > :04:55.of water. To reach the top here, salmon must
:04:55. > :04:59.jump in stages, hoping to find small ledges along the way.
:04:59. > :05:05.Wow! There we go! What a cracking leap.
:05:05. > :05:10.Some of their largest leaps are equivalent to me jumping two
:05:10. > :05:20.double-decker buses! Only one in 1,000 salmon will ever make it back
:05:20. > :05:20.
:05:20. > :05:27.to breed, so seeing them leap is a real privilege.
:05:27. > :05:33.Wow! There we go. It just jumped out of nowhere and
:05:33. > :05:39.hit the rock and bounced straight back down. I tell you, having heard
:05:39. > :05:46.I could have a go at it myself, I am now full of admiration for these
:05:46. > :05:52.athletes in the fish world. I can't wait for the fish Olympics!
:05:52. > :05:56.Madrid, 2013! Exciting, isn't it, Matt? Yes, what does this landscape
:05:56. > :06:00.make you feel? Right now I want to dive into the water, but it is
:06:00. > :06:06.freezing. It makes me feel like writing
:06:06. > :06:13.poetry. Dark brown is the river, golden is the sand, it flows on
:06:13. > :06:18.forever with trees on either hand. That's buert, Matt, did you write
:06:18. > :06:26.that? -- that's beautiful, Matt, did you write it? No.
:06:26. > :06:32.This landscape was a huge source of inspiration for painters like John
:06:32. > :06:36.millet. But also many more.
:06:36. > :06:41.Here is Gyles Brandreth. Pull the poor wretch from her lay
:06:41. > :06:48.to muddy depths. Lines from Shakespeare's play, Ham let,
:06:48. > :06:55.describing the last moments of ham let's love, Ophelia as she drowns.
:06:55. > :07:00.As families are the words is a painting of Ophelia. It depicts the
:07:00. > :07:04.Shakespeare character as she takes her life in a river in Denmark
:07:04. > :07:09.after hearing that her lover, ham let has killed her father.
:07:09. > :07:13.There is debate as to whether Ophelia is alive or dead in this
:07:13. > :07:19.moment. My feeling is it is just that moment that the life has left
:07:19. > :07:25.her. Some like to believe she is alive, some like to believe she is
:07:25. > :07:29.just dead. There was a brother hood of
:07:29. > :07:32.painters and together they wanted to return to a more natural form of
:07:32. > :07:40.painting. One of the most interesting things
:07:40. > :07:46.about the pre- rafallites is that they had this move towards nature
:07:46. > :07:48.and painted outdoors. In the play, of course, Ophelia dies in Denmark,
:07:48. > :07:58.but the setting for the painting is English.
:07:58. > :08:00.
:08:00. > :08:06.I'm standing by the Hobbss Mill River in Surrey, where Miele spent
:08:06. > :08:12.time spenting with his friend. Art experts believe that Mielle
:08:12. > :08:19.painted the background to the painting here the Hobbs River, but
:08:19. > :08:27.we decided to find out the exact location that Mielle had chosen.
:08:27. > :08:31.This is the copy of the book that Milleas had written. Letters in the
:08:31. > :08:35.book reveal the distance between the lodgings of the painter and the
:08:35. > :08:39.riverbank where he was working on the painting. This provided
:08:39. > :08:48.evidence to help Barbara narrow down her search.
:08:48. > :08:54.What this told me was that Milleas could not have chosen his spot in
:08:54. > :08:58.This area as it was too far' way. Then Barbara unearthed another
:08:58. > :09:05.piece of the jigsaw. In the Surrey record office there
:09:05. > :09:08.was a scrap book written by Chatwin Stapleton, who was the vicar here
:09:08. > :09:15.at the time that the painters were here.
:09:15. > :09:22.What did the vicar report? Now, the vicar reported that the willow in
:09:22. > :09:26.the painting was the willow 100 yards above the bridge over the
:09:26. > :09:31.Hobbs Mill leading to Surbiton, and that was the back ground of the
:09:31. > :09:41.painting. So, Barbara had proved the experts
:09:41. > :09:43.
:09:43. > :09:48.wrong. The exact spot where Mealle had worked was close to the river
:09:48. > :09:52.of Old Surbiton. How did you feel when you made this
:09:52. > :09:58.dits covery? Well, very surprised and really delighted that it
:09:58. > :10:03.towelally had some conclusion to it. The painter spent 11 hours a day,
:10:03. > :10:10.six days a week here in all weathers, but happily his model was
:10:10. > :10:14.spared the river. Instead, Lizzie Siddell was allowed
:10:14. > :10:19.to pose in a bath of water in his London studio.
:10:19. > :10:23.The painter had this vision, he wanted to paint her properly
:10:23. > :10:29.floating in water so he could see the effects of what the water did
:10:29. > :10:35.to her hair and clothing. I think that she had the painting
:10:35. > :10:39.equivalent of photo genia, he knew that she would look wonderful in
:10:39. > :10:48.the water. She became ill as a result of
:10:48. > :10:56.posing for him. Milleas was one of the most
:10:56. > :11:01.captivating painters but what of poor Lizzie? She died, but lives on
:11:01. > :11:05.as art lovers everywhere as the tragic Ophelia.
:11:05. > :11:10.I genuinely love that painting, which I had as a poster on my wall
:11:10. > :11:20.as a student. Why didn't you have a normal poster
:11:20. > :11:20.
:11:20. > :11:24.as a student like Bob Marley. --? You are saying I'm not normal?
:11:24. > :11:28.Maybe eccentric. This area gets a whaping 1.5
:11:28. > :11:34.million visitor as year from all over the country, but this has not
:11:34. > :11:44.been such a tourism hot spot, in fact it would not be if it were not
:11:44. > :11:51.for the work of one wonderful woman. Gloria hundred ford?
:11:51. > :11:56.Queen Victoria. She bought Balmoral.
:11:56. > :12:01.I would imagine that the burgeoning and growing railway network of the
:12:01. > :12:07.era meant that more people had the opportunity to mimic the Monarch?
:12:07. > :12:12.Indeed, it became fashionable of going north of the border. We have
:12:12. > :12:17.an interesting way of doing fashion on show show. We have Dan Snow and
:12:17. > :12:23.Michael Douglas, he is a hair drers, but he deals with the hair. --
:12:23. > :12:28.dresser. Virn England, a prosperous, hard-
:12:28. > :12:34.working country it is often thought of as a peaceful period. The
:12:34. > :12:39.Victorian era is referred of as being a packed Britannica, people
:12:39. > :12:44.say that there were no major wars fought in it, but there was loads
:12:44. > :12:50.of fighting. The Crimean War pitted Russia against Britain, France and
:12:50. > :12:54.Turkey it was fought mainly in the modern-day Ukraine as the great
:12:54. > :12:58.powers justled for influence in the Asia minor and the Balkans. It was
:12:58. > :13:05.the military that led from the front. Pine years of a fashion for
:13:05. > :13:09.male grooming in the form of fantastic extravagant moustaches,
:13:10. > :13:14.obligatory for men. This is Bill, I have to create a
:13:14. > :13:18.wonderful moustache on him. What is wonderful face to do it on, look at
:13:18. > :13:25.that I can't wait. Bill, you have a book with images in it, tell us
:13:25. > :13:29.what they are about? This is my great, great granddad, William and
:13:30. > :13:33.his son. Who is this? That is a cousin.
:13:33. > :13:43.I think we should go author that, that is rather nice.
:13:43. > :13:50.That's a sporty moustache. Take a look... Oh, I say! Do you
:13:50. > :13:55.like that? That is rather dashing that, ain't it? It suits you! I met
:13:55. > :14:00.up with rosemary Mitchell, the director of a centre for Victorian
:14:00. > :14:06.studies in Leeds. Why do people have beards in the army? They are
:14:06. > :14:13.sort of man of action beards. Having lived out in the Empire, not
:14:13. > :14:19.having time for shaving. The beard has this expression of strength.
:14:19. > :14:24.Think of sampleson and deLila. The fashion for facial hair spread
:14:24. > :14:29.out. Sometimes the beards are linked to
:14:29. > :14:34.the Crimean War and a more positive assessment of the army and
:14:34. > :14:39.supporting this is the new imperial idea of manhood. Beards expressed
:14:39. > :14:48.the man who goes out there to explore the baundaries of the New
:14:48. > :14:53.World. This is a about expressing po tensey, maturity and adventure
:14:53. > :14:57.as well. For women, the influence was not the battlefield. The hair
:14:57. > :15:03.style reflected their role. Maternal home makers.
:15:03. > :15:07.So, flirtairbsness was out and prudishness was in.
:15:07. > :15:12.Those Victorian values, moral rek tued and hard work were closely
:15:12. > :15:16.linked to the growth of industry and the rejection of regency row
:15:16. > :15:21.monthcism. The early Victorians were defieng
:15:21. > :15:31.themselves against what they saw as degenerate era. So aiming to be
:15:31. > :15:33.
:15:33. > :15:37.It is about projecting an image which says trust me with your money
:15:37. > :15:43.for top facial hair had become symbolic with trustworthiness ant
:15:43. > :15:47.standing. People like Charles Dickens and Charles Darwin followed
:15:47. > :15:55.the trend which now included elaborate sideburns known as mutton
:15:55. > :16:00.chops. The Prince Albert is largely some big sideburns, or mutton chops
:16:00. > :16:10.or lamb chops, and we also keep a bit of a moustache as well. It
:16:10. > :16:20.
:16:20. > :16:25.Here he is, transformed into a van -- a Victorian gent. Mutton chops.
:16:25. > :16:31.They would suit you. They might make my it an almost chin that even
:16:31. > :16:36.bigger! -- enormous chin. The legacy of the Victorians is still
:16:36. > :16:40.with us to this day, not just the physical fabric of what they left
:16:40. > :16:44.behind, but also the birth of things like social responsibility,
:16:45. > :16:50.the beginnings of those struggles for a quality and rights that still
:16:50. > :16:55.improve our lives to this day. I think you would look really good
:16:55. > :17:04.with one of these Victorian bonnets. Really? The look I am going for is
:17:04. > :17:08.a future Edwardian. Interesting. It is almost working. Four of the five
:17:09. > :17:17.tallest peaks in Britain by in the Cairngorms, the tallest being Benn
:17:17. > :17:22.looked eerie at 1309 metres. It has a ghost. By the big grey man who is
:17:22. > :17:26.a bit like a yeti, but a man and a ghost. Maybe if we stand here long
:17:26. > :17:32.enough we will meet him. Every possibility. The only better view
:17:32. > :17:35.you could get than this one is of course if we were birds of prey, if
:17:36. > :17:45.you were an eagle. I am glad you said that because there is a
:17:46. > :17:47.
:17:47. > :17:55.falconer in Devon who thinks the Throughout history man has dreamt
:17:55. > :17:59.of flying and our fascination stemmed from birds. There... It is
:17:59. > :18:03.normally what I am looking for. But today I have come to Devon to meet
:18:03. > :18:07.a man who can't keep his feet on the ground. He has taken his
:18:07. > :18:13.passion for gliding one step further and he has learnt how to
:18:13. > :18:18.soar with the birds. Jonathan Marshall is more than just an
:18:18. > :18:23.adrenalin junkie. With his squadron of birds, he has used every trick
:18:23. > :18:26.in the book to try to soar like Lynne Neagle. This is your
:18:27. > :18:30.beautiful collection. He is a professional falconer and has
:18:30. > :18:38.trained many birds of prey, but there is one bird in particular he
:18:38. > :18:44.has formed a very special bond with. Who is this? This is Samson. He is
:18:44. > :18:51.giving me the RI! He is a golden eagle. What a handsome bird he is.
:18:51. > :18:55.How heavy is he? A very heavy. He is about 10 lbs at the moment. He
:18:55. > :19:00.could get heavier than that in the winter. How did you become
:19:00. > :19:04.acquainted with Samson? He was originally stolen from a zoo and
:19:04. > :19:10.kept in a wardrobe for four months. Somebody found dumped about it and
:19:10. > :19:13.the house was raided and they found the Eagle. He was brought down to
:19:13. > :19:18.me for rehabilitation. I also had to befriend him, which a lot of
:19:18. > :19:23.people think sounds corny, but you can't train a bird unless it trusts
:19:23. > :19:28.you. I had to sit with him night after night and we used to watch
:19:29. > :19:33.the telly, we watched the X Factor, the One Show. Eventually I got his
:19:33. > :19:39.trust and he is now in great condition. What does it feel like
:19:39. > :19:42.to fly with a golden eagle? You can't put it into words. You can't,
:19:42. > :19:46.but it is like having the most amazing secret that you can't tell
:19:46. > :19:51.anybody about because they will never understand it. When we fly
:19:51. > :19:56.together, it is just me and Sampson in his world. I don't have a mobile
:19:56. > :20:00.phone or any bills of people pestering. It is quiet and you are
:20:00. > :20:04.sharing the air with the most beautiful bird in the world.
:20:04. > :20:08.Sampson teaches me a lot about flying because he is born with a
:20:08. > :20:13.knowledge of the air and thermals and how to use them. I follow him
:20:13. > :20:20.and you can guarantee sooner or later he will find they left. Most
:20:20. > :20:25.hang-glider pilots used electronic instruments. I used a golden eagle.
:20:25. > :20:35.That is cool. Now it is my turn to see him in action. Time for his
:20:35. > :20:39.
:20:39. > :20:47.That wasn't as we planned! thought -- I said he was raring to
:20:47. > :20:51.go. We were supposed to have a little chat. Look at him go. If you
:20:51. > :20:58.watch, he is hardly flapping. The crows are flapping like mad and he
:20:58. > :21:01.is not beating the wing, he is just gliding. Obviously golden eagles
:21:02. > :21:05.spend an enormous amount of time in the wild soaring around. They can't
:21:05. > :21:12.afford to expend energy flapping. Those big wings hold him up without
:21:12. > :21:17.any effort. Golden eagles were once persecuted almost to the brink of
:21:17. > :21:24.extinction. But today, there are over 500 wild breeding pairs found
:21:24. > :21:28.mainly in the Scottish Highlands. With a wingspan of well over two
:21:28. > :21:34.metres, golden eagles can plummet down on to pray at speeds of up to
:21:34. > :21:39.50 mph. They are incredibly sharp - their sharp eyesight can see a
:21:39. > :21:46.rabbit from over a mile away so for Samson spotting a piece of meat in
:21:46. > :21:56.my hand is a piece of cake. Here he comes. Cricket as tight as you can.
:21:56. > :21:59.
:21:59. > :22:09.It is incredible. Can you feel the strength? Amazing. Like a
:22:09. > :22:13.pterodactyl descending. He will take my hand off! I will have to
:22:13. > :22:17.count all of my fingers later, but being so close to such a majestic
:22:17. > :22:26.bird and seeing the bond Jonathan and Sampson share has been a truly
:22:26. > :22:35.Well, there are not many people who can say they have flown with a
:22:35. > :22:40.golden eagle. It is while doubt here, we are 250 yards at least
:22:40. > :22:50.from the nearest cafe. -- it is wild. But people have made their
:22:50. > :22:50.
:22:50. > :22:54.homes here for decades. It is a bit longer than that. One was 6,000
:22:54. > :23:02.years ago. How do you find the stuff out? You have to look for the
:23:02. > :23:06.evidence, it is everywhere. Only a few people can spot these clues.
:23:06. > :23:11.The history of our land. It is a real skill. Thank goodness
:23:11. > :23:15.Angellica Bell is one of them. Hadrian's Wall in Northumbria, the
:23:15. > :23:19.boundary of the great Roman Empire which stretched all the way from
:23:19. > :23:23.here to Syria. It divided the wild tribes of the north from the
:23:23. > :23:27.citizens of Roman Britain. 90 miles to the south, a surprising new
:23:27. > :23:32.piece of evidence has emerged about the identity of people living here
:23:33. > :23:38.under Roman rule. Today York is better known for its Viking
:23:38. > :23:43.heritage, -- Viking heritage, but it was founded by the heritage --
:23:43. > :23:47.Romans in 71 A D. It quickly turned into a thriving town. Parts of
:23:47. > :23:51.there 30 that Roman wall that surrounded the town still stand.
:23:51. > :23:59.But it is underground that the most exciting discoveries about the
:23:59. > :24:03.Romans in Britain have been made. This lady is a Roman specialist.
:24:03. > :24:07.She has been re-examining remains from York dug up in the early 1900s
:24:07. > :24:13.and has made a surprising new discovery. What have you got to
:24:13. > :24:16.show us? And interesting find from the Roman York. It is the skull of
:24:16. > :24:21.a young woman who lived in the fourth century. If we look at her
:24:21. > :24:24.facial features, the width between her eyes and the shape of the nose
:24:24. > :24:29.indicate black and so street and then the shape of the nasal spine
:24:29. > :24:32.and the lower face indicate white ancestry. That suggests she was of
:24:32. > :24:37.mixed race. Do you think she travelled hit or she was born in
:24:37. > :24:41.this country? We asked the same question and we looked at her teeth.
:24:41. > :24:44.Through the water you drink and the food you eat, certain elements are
:24:44. > :24:48.deposited and this chemical fingerprinting technique tells us
:24:48. > :24:53.she is almost certainly not from York, she has come from somewhere
:24:53. > :24:57.slightly warmer, perhaps the Mediterranean. We assume this woman
:24:57. > :25:02.was a slave. For the Association of Africans and slavery is modern. In
:25:02. > :25:09.the Roman world, slaves came from other parts of the Empire, and also
:25:09. > :25:14.has -- skeleton shows us she was living a good life. Her grave goods,
:25:14. > :25:18.which were found in a stone coffin, tell us she was of very high status.
:25:18. > :25:24.We have this very beautiful necklace made of blue glass. Also,
:25:25. > :25:28.some bracelets. This is made of jet, which comes from nearby Whitby. It
:25:28. > :25:33.shows she was shopping for jewellery in York and one of
:25:33. > :25:37.elephant ivory. An African connection. Because of that, we
:25:37. > :25:42.have nicknamed her the ivory bangles lady. What these goods are
:25:42. > :25:46.saying is she was wealthy. We know the ivory bangles lady was 5 ft 1,
:25:46. > :25:52.about average for the time. And that she died in her early twenties.
:25:52. > :25:59.And now, thanks to facial reconstruction, we can reveal for
:25:59. > :26:02.the first time what she might have looked like. So what was life like
:26:02. > :26:07.for the ivory bangles lady in the fourth century? Surprisingly, she
:26:07. > :26:10.was not the only foreign immigrant living in Roman York. The Roman
:26:10. > :26:16.Empire was similar to the modern EU, with a free flow of people across
:26:17. > :26:20.Europe. Much like today, Roman York and other British cities were
:26:20. > :26:26.highly cosmopolitan and multicultural. This street was the
:26:26. > :26:32.main Roman road in York, and it is amazing to think that even 1,700
:26:32. > :26:37.years ago, there was a real mix of people. Either might have been a
:26:37. > :26:40.long way from Rome, but it was not a sleepy suburb. It had great trade
:26:40. > :26:45.networks and a large population. The ivory bangles lady would have
:26:45. > :26:50.enjoyed all the trappings of Roman life, such as shopping in the busy
:26:50. > :26:53.market forum and the favourite pastime of all Roman citizens. This
:26:53. > :26:57.bath house dates back to the fourth century and was part of a military
:26:57. > :27:01.fortress. Women would not have been allowed to be a thick, it would
:27:01. > :27:05.have been full of sweaty soldiers. One of whom might have been the
:27:05. > :27:09.ivory bangles Lady's husband. As the military hub for Britain's
:27:09. > :27:13.defence, this was one of the most important towns of the Roman Empire.
:27:13. > :27:18.It was so important, emperors came here. One of the most famous
:27:18. > :27:23.imperial visits was in 306 when this chap, Constantine the Great,
:27:23. > :27:27.was proclaimed Emperor right here in York. It is amazing to think the
:27:27. > :27:37.ivory bangles lady was living here around the time this great emperor
:27:37. > :27:39.
:27:39. > :27:43.A mixed-race woman living in York in the fourth century, I just
:27:43. > :27:47.wasn't expecting that. But the biggest eye-opener for me is
:27:47. > :27:50.discovering just how much people moved around during the Roman times
:27:50. > :27:54.and just how multicultural it really was.
:27:54. > :27:58.That is what the Romans did for us. Along with everything else. It has