0:00:00 > 0:00:02It's the semi-final of The Great British Sewing Bee
0:00:02 > 0:00:04and the pressure is on.
0:00:04 > 0:00:08After last week's agonising decision about who created the perfect
0:00:08 > 0:00:11zip-fly and who rolled the finest silk hem,
0:00:11 > 0:00:13we're down to four contestants,
0:00:13 > 0:00:16all of whom want to stitch their way to victory
0:00:16 > 0:00:20and be crowned Britain's Best Amateur Sewer.
0:00:20 > 0:00:22They get a crown, right?
0:00:22 > 0:00:27Last time, making a pair of trousers separated the men from the boys.
0:00:27 > 0:00:29And you've got the fly the wrong way around.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32- Fitness instructor Stuart... - Oh, cheeky!
0:00:32 > 0:00:35..surprised the judges with his tulips.
0:00:35 > 0:00:36Love it. Brilliant!
0:00:36 > 0:00:40For the first time, Ann disappointed with her patch pockets.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43I think you could have been more ambitious.
0:00:43 > 0:00:45I think we'll leave it at that.
0:00:45 > 0:00:48- And after the silky blouse challenge...- It's gone Pete Tong.
0:00:48 > 0:00:49..and much debate...
0:00:49 > 0:00:52- We need to talk about that. - We do need to talk about this.
0:00:52 > 0:00:53..Tilly...
0:00:53 > 0:00:55I've lost my pins, I've lost everything.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58..and Mark were asked to leave The Sewing Bee.
0:00:58 > 0:00:59Oh, no!
0:00:59 > 0:01:01This week:
0:01:01 > 0:01:03# I'm in the semi-finals. #
0:01:03 > 0:01:05The semi-finalists face three more challenges,
0:01:05 > 0:01:08set by Savile Row's Patrick Grant
0:01:08 > 0:01:11and the nation's most experienced sewing teacher, May Martin.
0:01:11 > 0:01:13The fabric itself has got a mind of its own.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16But how will they cope with sewing on a miniature scale?
0:01:16 > 0:01:19The competition is fierce, isn't it? Fierce.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23What can they possibly do to transform this shapeless dress?
0:01:23 > 0:01:25I want to do something drastic like chop the skirt off.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29And after the most tricky made-to-measure challenge yet...
0:01:29 > 0:01:31I've got cramp in my fingers!
0:01:31 > 0:01:33..which one of them will be asked to leave The Sewing Bee?
0:01:33 > 0:01:36They're just going to crucify me!
0:01:36 > 0:01:39- I've not got enough fabric. - I can smell the tension.
0:01:41 > 0:01:43The tasks are getting harder.
0:01:43 > 0:01:45Only the best three will make it through to the final.
0:01:45 > 0:01:48This is The Great British Sewing Bee.
0:02:14 > 0:02:18We're back in east London, where the four remaining contestants
0:02:18 > 0:02:21are facing two solid days of sewing.
0:02:21 > 0:02:2381-year-old yoga devotee Ann
0:02:23 > 0:02:26is hoping her 75 years of sewing experience
0:02:26 > 0:02:28will hold her in good stead.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31Back again! This is absolutely amazing. Brilliant!
0:02:31 > 0:02:36She is very measured and knows her capabilities, which are great.
0:02:36 > 0:02:38But she never takes big risks.
0:02:38 > 0:02:41Up against Ann is 41-year-old fitness instructor
0:02:41 > 0:02:44and creative maverick, Stuart.
0:02:44 > 0:02:48I want to up my game, I want to be good enough to stay in.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52I really fought for Stuart last week because he showed flair,
0:02:52 > 0:02:53he showed individuality,
0:02:53 > 0:02:56but today there are some technical challenges.
0:02:56 > 0:02:5948-year-old hospital cleaner Sandra has honed her sewing skills
0:02:59 > 0:03:02making clothes for family and friends.
0:03:02 > 0:03:04I can't believe I'm here for the semi-final.
0:03:04 > 0:03:07The judges will not give you a second chance for getting it wrong,
0:03:07 > 0:03:09not at this late stage.
0:03:09 > 0:03:12Sandra needs to demonstrate to us that she knows how to fit.
0:03:12 > 0:03:15She needs to show us that the eye for fitting,
0:03:15 > 0:03:17as well as technical excellence, are there.
0:03:17 > 0:03:21And the fourth semi-finalist is 27-year-old perfectionist Lauren.
0:03:21 > 0:03:26Everything definitely feels much more tense.
0:03:26 > 0:03:28Everyone knows the levels of what you've got to do
0:03:28 > 0:03:31have just been pushed up a little bit.
0:03:31 > 0:03:33There's no corner to hide.
0:03:33 > 0:03:36I think Lauren needs to just show
0:03:36 > 0:03:39there is more about her than florals and frills.
0:03:39 > 0:03:42I think we need to see she's got a broader range of capabilities.
0:03:44 > 0:03:46Oh, Lordy!
0:03:46 > 0:03:50The semi-finalists have no idea what today's challenges will involve.
0:03:52 > 0:03:55I'm really excited about today and I'm really looking forward
0:03:55 > 0:03:58to watching all of them do their best work.
0:03:58 > 0:04:01We are looking to expose any weaknesses
0:04:01 > 0:04:05and to celebrate all the brilliant techniques they can bring to bear.
0:04:06 > 0:04:09Welcome back to The Sewing Bee
0:04:09 > 0:04:13and huge congratulations for getting into the semi-final.
0:04:13 > 0:04:16We always start with a challenge about following a pattern.
0:04:16 > 0:04:21The judges today would like you to make a child's dress.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24You can use whatever fabric you like.
0:04:24 > 0:04:26Lauren, you look terrified.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- Just a bit.- Absolute nightmare.
0:04:29 > 0:04:34Is it? Good luck. Off you go. Two-and-a-half hours. It starts now.
0:04:36 > 0:04:38In this first challenge,
0:04:38 > 0:04:42the judges want to test the sewers' ability to follow a pattern.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45As it's the semi-final, they want to see couture techniques
0:04:45 > 0:04:48carried out on a small scale.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51The pattern itself is for a toddler's summer dress.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54It's straight-forward but the finishing needs to be exquisite.
0:04:54 > 0:04:58Two pieces of fabric are sewn together with a special French seam,
0:04:58 > 0:05:00then gathered into fine pleats at the top
0:05:00 > 0:05:02with rows of shirring elastic.
0:05:02 > 0:05:07It's joined to form a tube and stitched on to the other side.
0:05:07 > 0:05:10Then rouleau loops are made by rolling two strips of fabric
0:05:10 > 0:05:13which are then attached to the shoulder and tied in a bow.
0:05:13 > 0:05:17What kind of fabric should these guys be choosing?
0:05:17 > 0:05:21- Something that's soft.- Like that. - We want this to gather up.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24If the fabric's too stiff, it won't sit well.
0:05:24 > 0:05:26We want it to ruche up.
0:05:26 > 0:05:31It's a nice, light, fine cotton fabric.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34So things like the shirring, where everything is elasticated
0:05:34 > 0:05:38and gathered up, if you had a fabric that was very thick,
0:05:38 > 0:05:42it would sort of be lumpy and wouldn't hang nicely.
0:05:42 > 0:05:44- Is this a good fabric, May? - Yes, you need something soft.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47- I wanted something lightweight. - A good choice.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50It's soft, so it'll move nicely.
0:05:50 > 0:05:53It's plain, so you don't have to worry about a pattern.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55But not everyone has gone for a simple option.
0:05:55 > 0:06:00I thought with a stripe, the bottom would look as good as the top.
0:06:00 > 0:06:04First thing I've got to do is find the rest of my pattern!
0:06:04 > 0:06:07I wanted a fine cotton
0:06:07 > 0:06:11and also that I thought would look pretty on a child.
0:06:11 > 0:06:16I think a child might be quite happy with the flowers on this print.
0:06:16 > 0:06:18I think it's rather fun.
0:06:18 > 0:06:21# 20 tiny fingers
0:06:21 > 0:06:23# 20 tiny toes... #
0:06:23 > 0:06:26Once the sewers have cut out the back and front of the dress,
0:06:26 > 0:06:28they need to stitch it together on one side,
0:06:28 > 0:06:31using their first couture technique.
0:06:31 > 0:06:33Using a French seam, join...
0:06:34 > 0:06:36Ah, now, French seams...
0:06:36 > 0:06:39I know what a French seam is. Phew! That's good.
0:06:39 > 0:06:41What is a French seam?
0:06:41 > 0:06:45You sew wrong side to wrong side, one row of stitching,
0:06:45 > 0:06:47then you turn it back, fold it, press it,
0:06:47 > 0:06:49and then you resew it again on the top
0:06:49 > 0:06:51so you've got two rows of stitching.
0:06:51 > 0:06:53So the raw edges are enclosed inside
0:06:53 > 0:06:56- and you've got a very, very strong seam.- Why is that important?
0:06:56 > 0:06:59One of the things about kids' clothes is they get washed a lot.
0:06:59 > 0:07:01You need a robust garment.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03It's almost like you sew the seam twice
0:07:03 > 0:07:05so that it hides any raw edges
0:07:05 > 0:07:08and it's just a neater way of finishing something off.
0:07:08 > 0:07:12It also means it's nice and soft on the inside for kids.
0:07:12 > 0:07:14When I've made children's clothes before,
0:07:14 > 0:07:18it's really just been as a little practice to myself.
0:07:18 > 0:07:21I've not actually made them for a child,
0:07:21 > 0:07:24just because they are kind of cute.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27What have you been practising for, Lauren?
0:07:27 > 0:07:30You're starting to sound like my mother-in-law now!
0:07:30 > 0:07:34It's many years since I did anything like this.
0:07:34 > 0:07:37Mother of five and grandmother of seven,
0:07:37 > 0:07:40Ann has an advantage over the other sewers in the semi-final,
0:07:40 > 0:07:43having made clothes for two generations of children.
0:07:43 > 0:07:46Funnily enough, we were talking about this last week.
0:07:46 > 0:07:50They reminded me of special dresses that I'd made for them
0:07:50 > 0:07:53and the excitement they felt in seeing them.
0:07:53 > 0:07:55It was great!
0:07:57 > 0:07:59Years ago, a friend of mine had a baby
0:07:59 > 0:08:04and I made two absolutely revolting baby dresses.
0:08:04 > 0:08:06Disgusting fabric.
0:08:06 > 0:08:10You know, really bizarre, like curtain fabric.
0:08:10 > 0:08:14I think it was a bit of a Sound Of Music moment, you know,
0:08:14 > 0:08:16"That would look cute."
0:08:18 > 0:08:21Not cute. Not cute, not clever.
0:08:21 > 0:08:23HE LAUGHS Poor child!
0:08:23 > 0:08:26It'll probably grow up psychologically damaged
0:08:26 > 0:08:28and it'll be all my fault.
0:08:28 > 0:08:31Every time they see a pair of curtains, they'll freak out.
0:08:33 > 0:08:35One hour 30 minutes left.
0:08:35 > 0:08:39That's one hour 30 minutes.
0:08:39 > 0:08:41- Don't panic. - I won't.
0:08:41 > 0:08:45I thought I would be further on by now. Time's flying past.
0:08:45 > 0:08:48Patrick and May's pattern doesn't specify how many rows
0:08:48 > 0:08:50of shirring elastic the sewers should use
0:08:50 > 0:08:53to gather the tops of their dresses.
0:08:53 > 0:08:57I don't know if there's an indication on the picture.
0:08:57 > 0:09:01I've got to shirr between here and here,
0:09:01 > 0:09:05so I reckon probably one, two, three, four lines of shirring should do it.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08Shirring shmirring.
0:09:08 > 0:09:11If I was to have five...
0:09:11 > 0:09:15One, two, three, four, five. That'll do.
0:09:15 > 0:09:20One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight.
0:09:21 > 0:09:25About seven to eight rows of elastic, I would like, in there.
0:09:25 > 0:09:29It might be too much for some people, but you know what?
0:09:29 > 0:09:31It's not going to make any difference
0:09:31 > 0:09:34until Patrick gets his tape measure out.
0:09:34 > 0:09:36The elastic has to be wound on to a bobbin
0:09:36 > 0:09:39before putting it into the machine.
0:09:39 > 0:09:40I'm just going to keep winding.
0:09:40 > 0:09:43- That's the shirring elastic. - That's the elastic.
0:09:43 > 0:09:45You reel that onto there.
0:09:45 > 0:09:47But you have to wind it on by hand.
0:09:47 > 0:09:52If you wind it on the machine it stretches as it goes on.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- You have to wind it on relaxed.- Ah!
0:09:55 > 0:09:57I'm not going to tell anybody.
0:09:57 > 0:10:02I'm going to put some shirring elastic on by machine.
0:10:02 > 0:10:07I've done it by machine at home in the past.
0:10:07 > 0:10:11Everybody else will be horrified.
0:10:11 > 0:10:15I think if I hold it like that in my hand,
0:10:15 > 0:10:18I can guide it, so it's not too tight.
0:10:21 > 0:10:24There we go.
0:10:24 > 0:10:27By hand it can be just too loose.
0:10:27 > 0:10:31With the bobbin of elastic in the machine,
0:10:31 > 0:10:33the fabric should ruche up easily.
0:10:33 > 0:10:37You are shirring, you are pushing a row of elastic along
0:10:37 > 0:10:39and as you machine stitch,
0:10:39 > 0:10:41the elastic gathers up the fabric.
0:10:43 > 0:10:46Crucial to perfect shirring is an even tension
0:10:46 > 0:10:49when holding the fabric as it passes under the machine foot.
0:10:49 > 0:10:53Making this little dress brings back the memories
0:10:53 > 0:10:56of when you have got three to do.
0:10:56 > 0:11:00The first one's a pleasure. The second one goes OK.
0:11:00 > 0:11:02By the time you get to the third one,
0:11:02 > 0:11:05you've had enough and want to get it finished.
0:11:05 > 0:11:08The unlucky person got the third one.
0:11:08 > 0:11:10It might have been a bit more roughly done.
0:11:11 > 0:11:15Even when a row is finished, tension is still critical.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19The trouble is, when you finish sewing,
0:11:19 > 0:11:22you've got to make sure you pull enough elastic through
0:11:22 > 0:11:24that you don't lose it.
0:11:24 > 0:11:28As you pull it and cut it, it springs back into the machine.
0:11:28 > 0:11:32My elastic just keeps pinging back into the bobbin.
0:11:38 > 0:11:41Each additional row of elastic needs to be stitched
0:11:41 > 0:11:43at precisely the same tension.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48And perfectly parallel to the last.
0:11:48 > 0:11:50This has got to be done quite by eye.
0:11:53 > 0:11:56I suppose I could draw a line, but I'm not going to.
0:11:56 > 0:11:58Is that in a straight line?
0:11:58 > 0:12:02Yeah, I've pressed a crease so I have a crease to follow.
0:12:02 > 0:12:04They are really into their parallel lines.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07They're really into parallel lines. Absolutely.
0:12:07 > 0:12:09They're like Blondie.
0:12:09 > 0:12:11I put sticky tape on my machine
0:12:11 > 0:12:14so I could line up the fabric as I stitch.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- Well done.- Check it out! - Shirring elastic, stage one.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25How are you getting on, Ann?
0:12:25 > 0:12:27Well, I'm getting there.
0:12:27 > 0:12:30I think I've ventured too many rows of elastic.
0:12:30 > 0:12:34- I think it's ambitious.- I've done four. How many have you done?
0:12:34 > 0:12:36I've done one, two, three, four
0:12:36 > 0:12:39and I've still got about another four to go.
0:12:39 > 0:12:43- Oh!- Blooming heck. You're doing eight? Sandra!
0:12:43 > 0:12:46- How many have you done?- Oh, shut up! - Get out of town!
0:12:46 > 0:12:49- It'll be fine.- How many have you done, Stuart?- Three.
0:12:49 > 0:12:52The little girl doesn't want it falling down, does she?
0:12:52 > 0:12:56No, but at the same time, it doesn't want to be like a tourniquet, Sandra.
0:12:56 > 0:12:59- Sorry?- Doesn't want to be like a tourniquet, either.
0:12:59 > 0:13:02Got to think about that child's comfort.
0:13:06 > 0:13:09Once the dress is joined together to form a tube...
0:13:09 > 0:13:12At the moment I'm doing the second French seam.
0:13:12 > 0:13:17..the next couture technique is to create rouleau straps.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22I'm turning my straps the right way. I've done the one fine.
0:13:22 > 0:13:24This one, I'm all fingers and thumbs.
0:13:24 > 0:13:26I think the pressure is getting to me.
0:13:26 > 0:13:30Rouleau straps are round tubes of fabric.
0:13:30 > 0:13:33How do you make it loop?
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- You have a piece of fabric which you've cut...- On the bias.
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- I like it! On the bias! - I'm learning.
0:13:40 > 0:13:43You have a piece of fabric that you cut at a 45-degree angle.
0:13:45 > 0:13:47- You then fold it in half.- OK.
0:13:47 > 0:13:50You machine your tube and then they've got a metal gadget
0:13:50 > 0:13:53with a hook on the end, which you feed up through the tube,
0:13:53 > 0:13:58- hook on the end and pull it through. - You pull it inside out!
0:13:58 > 0:14:00Got it, just!
0:14:05 > 0:14:10If you look at the way Ann is making hers, she's hovering with the iron,
0:14:10 > 0:14:14so the steam is going in and giving them a little press
0:14:14 > 0:14:17but she's not squashing them flat.
0:14:17 > 0:14:20- But Sandra has other ideas. - I'm not doing rouleau straps.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22I have done the one.
0:14:22 > 0:14:25I can demonstrate why I prefer to go with my own.
0:14:25 > 0:14:29There is never a completely right way of doing anything in sewing,
0:14:29 > 0:14:32you do what you are happy with.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34With a place in the final at stake,
0:14:34 > 0:14:39Sandra's decision not to follow the pattern could be dangerous.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42They want the rouleau strap.
0:14:42 > 0:14:44(They are not getting a rouleau strap.)
0:14:46 > 0:14:49Well, what's this? What's this finickety thing?
0:14:49 > 0:14:52- I don't like it. - What are you talking about?
0:14:52 > 0:14:54- Turn this inside out! - I haven't got time.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01Everyone, you have ten minutes. That's the ten minute call.
0:15:02 > 0:15:07The final instruction on the pattern is to find and add embellishment.
0:15:07 > 0:15:11It hadn't occurred to me to do anything outside the instructions.
0:15:11 > 0:15:14I thought that the test was to follow the instructions.
0:15:14 > 0:15:18Oh, embellishment of your ch... I didn't read that!
0:15:20 > 0:15:24I wanted to add something. I'm thinking another button.
0:15:24 > 0:15:28- There are other buttons going on. So button up.- OK.
0:15:28 > 0:15:31I'm going to make another bit of rouleau and tie a bow on the front.
0:15:31 > 0:15:34I haven't got time to think of anything else.
0:15:34 > 0:15:36Two little buttons and I had time
0:15:36 > 0:15:39so I'm putting a patch pocket on the front, as well.
0:15:39 > 0:15:42Let's never forget your success with the patch pocket.
0:15:42 > 0:15:44Just call me the Patch Man.
0:15:44 > 0:15:47I'm not really sure what I'm doing there.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56My pins are in the wrong way. I'll do it this way.
0:15:56 > 0:15:57You have 30 seconds, please,
0:15:57 > 0:16:00to put your beautiful dresses on the mannequins.
0:16:01 > 0:16:04How are you doing, guys?
0:16:11 > 0:16:1315 seconds.
0:16:13 > 0:16:16Sandra, I'll be honest, I am talking to you.
0:16:24 > 0:16:26Thank you. Finito.
0:16:26 > 0:16:28Stand away. Stand away. Look somewhere else.
0:16:28 > 0:16:30Finished. Massive well done.
0:16:30 > 0:16:32These are adorable.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36# I love you, a bushel and a peck
0:16:36 > 0:16:39# A bushel and a peck and a hug around the neck
0:16:39 > 0:16:43# A hug around the neck and a barrel and a heap
0:16:43 > 0:16:46# A barrel and a heap and I'm talking in my sleep
0:16:46 > 0:16:48# About you... #
0:16:50 > 0:16:52May, first impression?
0:16:52 > 0:16:56We've got even spacing with our shirring here.
0:16:56 > 0:17:00This is a lovely French seam. Yes, it is very well-executed.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03I like the detail. You've tied a knot on the end of your rouleau,
0:17:03 > 0:17:06which I think is really precise.
0:17:06 > 0:17:08The bow on the front is a beautiful detail.
0:17:08 > 0:17:10Very delicate. It's very beautifully done.
0:17:10 > 0:17:12Ann, well done. Are you happy with that?
0:17:12 > 0:17:14Very happy, yes, thank you.
0:17:22 > 0:17:24First impression? Really, really cute.
0:17:27 > 0:17:31However, the problem up here is if you were putting this
0:17:31 > 0:17:36on and off a child and you only had two rows of shirring,
0:17:36 > 0:17:41it's weak and it would take no time at all for the shirring to break.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44and it's by having several rows of it
0:17:44 > 0:17:46that you get the strength in the garment.
0:17:46 > 0:17:50Right. Now then, French seams. Quite a generous seam.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53One might say sort of on the elephant side.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56I think you need to refine your techniques a bit
0:17:56 > 0:17:58and scale them down a little bit.
0:18:06 > 0:18:10This is a beautifully executed rendition of this pattern.
0:18:10 > 0:18:12The obvious thing to say
0:18:12 > 0:18:15is just how beautifully delicate these straps are.
0:18:15 > 0:18:19I mean, this is just exemplary handling skills.
0:18:19 > 0:18:22I mean, really, really fabulous.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26It's extremely neatly sewn through the bodice.
0:18:26 > 0:18:27A fantastic piece of sewing.
0:18:27 > 0:18:30I think you've done a really, really good job.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32Your French seam is really fine.
0:18:32 > 0:18:35Smaller than Ann's. Good job.
0:18:41 > 0:18:46I've just been really impressed with the way those stripes are sitting around the garment.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50They are all sitting vertically and it's so easy to twist them,
0:18:50 > 0:18:52if that shirring hadn't been done nicely.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54A brilliant technique.
0:18:54 > 0:18:57- You haven't made rouleau loops. - I have.
0:18:57 > 0:18:59Well, you've made one and you've kind of,
0:18:59 > 0:19:01"Here's one I didn't make earlier."
0:19:01 > 0:19:03If my child was wearing that,
0:19:03 > 0:19:06they would want a strap that would stop on.
0:19:06 > 0:19:09In many senses you're right but we did ask you to follow a pattern
0:19:09 > 0:19:11we've got to be strict on it
0:19:11 > 0:19:14but what you've done through here is exemplary.
0:19:16 > 0:19:18Patrick and May will now rank the sewers'
0:19:18 > 0:19:20attempts from fourth to first.
0:19:22 > 0:19:26Sadly, Stuart, yours is number four. A little bit more shirring required.
0:19:26 > 0:19:30Sandra, you come in at number three, beautiful shirring
0:19:30 > 0:19:32but you had flat straps.
0:19:32 > 0:19:33Patrick, who is in at two?
0:19:33 > 0:19:36Very, very difficult to choose between the two of them,
0:19:36 > 0:19:40because both beautifully executed but second...
0:19:40 > 0:19:42Ann.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45- Congratulations to Lauren! - Yey!
0:19:45 > 0:19:49You won it because those straps are just exquisite.
0:19:49 > 0:19:53- Congratulations.- A huge well done. - THEY CLAP
0:19:53 > 0:19:58Go and have a rest before challenge number two, cos it's a biggie.
0:19:58 > 0:20:01You might want to have a sit down.
0:20:06 > 0:20:08I've not had anything up until now,
0:20:08 > 0:20:12and to finally get top in something, I'm really, really chuffed.
0:20:14 > 0:20:17I could have made rouleau that small but I didn't.
0:20:18 > 0:20:21I need to get myself a little higher in the league tables.
0:20:21 > 0:20:26I'm gutted. I can't help but say I'm absolutely gutted.
0:20:26 > 0:20:28It's the semi-final, I've got to up my game.
0:20:28 > 0:20:31If I don't, I'm really jeopardising my place.
0:20:35 > 0:20:38Four beautiful little girl's dresses.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40Now it is time for the alteration challenge.
0:20:40 > 0:20:42Our sewers have just 90 minutes
0:20:42 > 0:20:46to transform the trickiest high street buy yet.
0:21:00 > 0:21:04It's time for your alteration challenge.
0:21:04 > 0:21:08You've got an hour-and-a-half to dramatically alter this dress.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11At the moment it's quite shapeless. You can use pleats.
0:21:11 > 0:21:15You can use darts. You can use whatever you want.
0:21:15 > 0:21:20You've got an hour-and-a-half. Your time starts now.
0:21:22 > 0:21:24This shift stress is made of viscose,
0:21:24 > 0:21:28a fluid fabric commonly used in high street dresses.
0:21:28 > 0:21:31Wait a minute. I need to think a bit more.
0:21:31 > 0:21:34Wait a minute. Wait a minute. Wait a minute.
0:21:34 > 0:21:36Off-the-peg, it's very loose-fitting,
0:21:36 > 0:21:39so it's a perfect garment for a radical alteration.
0:21:39 > 0:21:42Being able to take a very straight-forward dress like this
0:21:42 > 0:21:44and give it some style
0:21:44 > 0:21:48and changing its shape is a really useful thing to be able to do.
0:21:48 > 0:21:51One of the most obvious things to do is to create a waist.
0:21:51 > 0:21:53We can put a couple of darts into the front,
0:21:53 > 0:21:55we can do the same at the back.
0:21:55 > 0:21:57We can take away in the side seams.
0:21:57 > 0:22:01We want to see innate understanding of how to create shape in a garment.
0:22:05 > 0:22:08I know what I want to do...
0:22:09 > 0:22:12..I just can't figure out the best way to do it.
0:22:12 > 0:22:15I'm going to taper the hem
0:22:15 > 0:22:18so that it fits in more closely at the side.
0:22:18 > 0:22:20I'm going to put some tucks at the front
0:22:20 > 0:22:26and I'm going to dart the back so that it fits more closely here.
0:22:27 > 0:22:30I almost want to do something drastic like chop the skirt off
0:22:30 > 0:22:32- but I think it would be quite a big...- You can!
0:22:32 > 0:22:35- I would feel quite nervous about doing it.- Don't!
0:22:35 > 0:22:38They want alteration, I think you would get points,
0:22:38 > 0:22:40I'll say this to everyone, for being a bit dramatic.
0:22:40 > 0:22:45You'd chop it off and then what? Attach it again, almost with a band?
0:22:46 > 0:22:49Like a belt that's attached.
0:22:49 > 0:22:51I'm obsessed by that idea!
0:22:51 > 0:22:55If there is any credit for being just a little innovative,
0:22:55 > 0:22:57I want to try and get it.
0:22:57 > 0:23:00I'm doing like a sort of almost like a zigzag ripple effect
0:23:00 > 0:23:05down the outside, hand sewing on the outside.
0:23:05 > 0:23:09If in doubt, call it punk. That's what I say.
0:23:11 > 0:23:14- Sandra, how are you, darling? - I'm fine. I'm putting some darts in.
0:23:14 > 0:23:18This is an alteration challenge but all I'm saying,
0:23:18 > 0:23:21I've said it to Lauren, because it's the semi-final,
0:23:21 > 0:23:23I think the judges want bravery.
0:23:23 > 0:23:25You need a lot more time for more bravery.
0:23:25 > 0:23:28- Do you?- I think so. Well, I do. - Don't say that!
0:23:28 > 0:23:30I've just persuade Lauren to cut her skirt off!
0:23:33 > 0:23:38- What have we had? An hour and 25? - I bet we've only got an hour now.
0:23:38 > 0:23:42"Contestants, you have three minutes. Three minutes."
0:23:42 > 0:23:44While Stuart, Ann and Sandra
0:23:44 > 0:23:47can repin their alterations if they aren't happy...
0:23:47 > 0:23:51If the dart's positioned wrong, it'll look dreadful.
0:23:51 > 0:23:55..Lauren is about to face the point of no return.
0:23:55 > 0:23:59What I'm going to do is make the top of the dress fitted
0:23:59 > 0:24:01but make the bottom of the dress pleated.
0:24:01 > 0:24:03I'm going to chop it off.
0:24:03 > 0:24:05But I want to make sure I chop it off straight.
0:24:05 > 0:24:07Here goes!
0:24:07 > 0:24:10Chop, chop, chop.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13No going back now.
0:24:14 > 0:24:17I've just got to go for it, I think.
0:24:19 > 0:24:2130 minutes gone and 60 to go.
0:24:24 > 0:24:2740 years ago it wasn't unusual to make your own clothes.
0:24:27 > 0:24:31Most homes had a sewing machine and most high streets a haberdashery.
0:24:31 > 0:24:34During the Second World War, home sewers were called on
0:24:34 > 0:24:36to play a vital role for king and country.
0:24:36 > 0:24:39And they had quite an illustrious role model.
0:24:41 > 0:24:44In 1939, the Queen Mother gathered the members of her staff
0:24:44 > 0:24:47in the Blue Drawing Room of Buckingham Palace
0:24:47 > 0:24:51twice weekly to make clothes for the troops fighting in World War Two.
0:24:51 > 0:24:54She showed the world that when faced with the terrible prospect of war,
0:24:54 > 0:24:56everyone would have to do their bit.
0:24:56 > 0:25:00Women from all walks of life were encouraged to gather together
0:25:00 > 0:25:03to form sewing work parties, known as Sewing Bees,
0:25:03 > 0:25:06using their skills to contribute to the war effort.
0:25:06 > 0:25:09The Queen Mother was a big role model at the time
0:25:09 > 0:25:12because she was the patron of the Women's Voluntary Service.
0:25:12 > 0:25:16They actually organised a lot of these Sewing Bees.
0:25:16 > 0:25:19They were a powerhouse of activity where women could come
0:25:19 > 0:25:21and really contribute to the war effort
0:25:21 > 0:25:23with something they had skills to do.
0:25:26 > 0:25:28They'd be quite noisy and boisterous
0:25:28 > 0:25:32but a real sense of community and a real sense of helping the home front.
0:25:32 > 0:25:35The sewing work parties were often led by a more experienced sewer
0:25:35 > 0:25:39who instructed the group on what was to be made that day.
0:25:39 > 0:25:43The Government actually produced patterns for things like scarves,
0:25:43 > 0:25:48balaclavas and sweaters that could be sent out to the Army and the Navy.
0:25:48 > 0:25:51They also started making camouflage nets
0:25:51 > 0:25:54and things really specifically for the war front.
0:25:54 > 0:25:56I always think it must be hard for the women
0:25:56 > 0:25:58who already knew their husbands were lost,
0:25:58 > 0:26:00to keep producing those things
0:26:00 > 0:26:03for other people's husbands and fiances who were out there.
0:26:03 > 0:26:08In 1941, wartime sewing took a desperate turn
0:26:08 > 0:26:11as industries became more focussed on the war effort,
0:26:11 > 0:26:15fabrics were scarce and clothes rationing was introduced.
0:26:15 > 0:26:19If you weren't wealthy enough to have a wardrobe full of clothes,
0:26:19 > 0:26:22it was a case of make-do-and-mend.
0:26:22 > 0:26:25When it comes to clothes, make-do-and-mend needn't be at all unfashionable.
0:26:25 > 0:26:26Listen to what you can do.
0:26:26 > 0:26:31Mrs Clarke made her frock from her husband's old plus-four trousers.
0:26:31 > 0:26:34To help people cope with clothes rationing,
0:26:34 > 0:26:38the Government issued leaflets, posters and newsreels
0:26:38 > 0:26:41which gave women ideas about how to make their clothes last longer
0:26:41 > 0:26:44and get creative with whatever material was to hand.
0:26:44 > 0:26:49Make-do-and-mend is about using your existing clothes
0:26:49 > 0:26:51or anything you have lying around the house to make new clothes.
0:26:51 > 0:26:54Clothes rationing continued until 1949, by which time
0:26:54 > 0:26:59Britain's make-do-and-menders had become increasingly resourceful.
0:26:59 > 0:27:01Tell me about this dress.
0:27:01 > 0:27:06They're made of silk maps which were issued to aircrews during the war.
0:27:06 > 0:27:10At the end of the war, these maps were sold off in department stores
0:27:10 > 0:27:13and people used them to make all sorts of clothes for themselves.
0:27:13 > 0:27:15Absolutely beautiful.
0:27:15 > 0:27:17People must have had amazing creativity
0:27:17 > 0:27:20and learnt a lot of new skills in a fairly short time
0:27:20 > 0:27:23to be able to produce this sort of thing.
0:27:23 > 0:27:24I suppose necessity breeds invention.
0:27:24 > 0:27:29People had no choice than to really improve their sewing skills.
0:27:29 > 0:27:31There is one person in our own Sewing Bee
0:27:31 > 0:27:35who developed her sewing skills thanks to clothes rationing.
0:27:36 > 0:27:39When I went off to college in 1949,
0:27:39 > 0:27:42I was wearing what to me looked a very smart,
0:27:42 > 0:27:47straight skirt made out of an old pair of my father's trousers!
0:27:48 > 0:27:52Well, in those days, men's trousers were Oxford bags,
0:27:52 > 0:27:56so they had lots of pleats at the front, lots of room in the seat.
0:27:56 > 0:27:59I think that he'd probably worn out the cuffs.
0:27:59 > 0:28:01So I was given these trousers to unpick
0:28:01 > 0:28:04and I made myself a skirt.
0:28:04 > 0:28:09That's what I wore when I went up to college as a student at 18.
0:28:09 > 0:28:12I hate having to make-do-and-mend,
0:28:12 > 0:28:14I think because I had to do it for so long.
0:28:16 > 0:28:2045 minutes to go, and with the new dress shapes pinned into place,
0:28:20 > 0:28:22sewing can begin.
0:28:22 > 0:28:25It's quite tricky, this is.
0:28:25 > 0:28:29Having removed the middle of her dress, Lauren is reattaching the top to the bottom.
0:28:31 > 0:28:34I should be able to just get everything done
0:28:34 > 0:28:36but it's not going to be neat on the inside.
0:28:36 > 0:28:40Let's assume I'm going to be fourth, in terms of skill.
0:28:40 > 0:28:44Can I raise my game by being different to the others?
0:28:46 > 0:28:49- Well, this is my attempt. - I wanted more of an A-line dress.
0:28:49 > 0:28:52I put two darts in the front, two in the back
0:28:52 > 0:28:54taken the side seams in,
0:28:54 > 0:28:57took that in a bit more around the waist.
0:28:57 > 0:29:01Whether she'll ever get it off or on, I don't know.
0:29:01 > 0:29:04- Has it got a bit of stretch in it? - It has.
0:29:04 > 0:29:06You should get it over the top.
0:29:09 > 0:29:13OK, everybody, half an hour left. That's half an hour.
0:29:13 > 0:29:16That will give me time to try and tart it up a bit.
0:29:16 > 0:29:19Once they've managed to change the shape of their dress...
0:29:19 > 0:29:21Don't be too small!
0:29:21 > 0:29:25..the sewers can use any remaining time to embellish their alteration.
0:29:25 > 0:29:28- Sandra, I'm just nicking your scissors.- OK.
0:29:33 > 0:29:35How are you going to finish it off?
0:29:35 > 0:29:37Are you going to put that band around?
0:29:37 > 0:29:39I'm still not 100% on that red.
0:29:39 > 0:29:42- I feel like it looks like an air hostess.- I'm not. I'm not.
0:29:42 > 0:29:45I'm glad you said that. I'm not 100% on it.
0:29:45 > 0:29:50I think something solid and bolder might look better.
0:29:52 > 0:29:55I'm just putting some braiding around,
0:29:55 > 0:29:57just to make it look a little bit different.
0:29:57 > 0:30:02But when I've held it up, it's like something my nan used to wear!
0:30:03 > 0:30:08- What are you doing?- It's got a zip on the back anyway, on the outside.
0:30:08 > 0:30:12- I'm just wondering if I can make... - A zip belt?- A zip flower.
0:30:12 > 0:30:15- You're thinking of just making a zip flower.- A zip flower.
0:30:15 > 0:30:20- Why wouldn't you?- I know.- It's like Debbie Harry's in the...- I know!
0:30:20 > 0:30:22I wasn't happy with my ribbon
0:30:22 > 0:30:24cos I felt like it looked like an air hostess,
0:30:24 > 0:30:27so I've gone for something a bit disco.
0:30:29 > 0:30:33Five minutes, everybody. Five minutes left.
0:30:33 > 0:30:35Bloody hell!
0:30:41 > 0:30:45I was thinking of putting that round the neck,
0:30:45 > 0:30:49but I can't do it to my satisfaction in the time.
0:30:49 > 0:30:53Rather than having it put on badly, I'm not going to put on at all.
0:30:55 > 0:30:58Guys, you have one minute left.
0:30:58 > 0:31:00Somebody's watch is wrong.
0:31:02 > 0:31:06That ain't bad for free-hand, is it?
0:31:06 > 0:31:11The judges said to radically change the dress.
0:31:11 > 0:31:17Radically change the look of it, the fit of it. It is a radical change.
0:31:20 > 0:31:23Oh, God! Please get on!
0:31:26 > 0:31:28Oh, shit.
0:31:28 > 0:31:31OK, that's it. Your time's up.
0:31:31 > 0:31:35Please put your dress on your mannequin.
0:31:35 > 0:31:38Place your mannequins at the end of your workstation.
0:31:38 > 0:31:41She can't breathe in, this one.
0:31:41 > 0:31:44The judges are going to judge.
0:31:46 > 0:31:51The challenge was to dramatically change the shape of this dress.
0:31:51 > 0:31:54May and Patrick are about to discover who succeeded.
0:32:01 > 0:32:06OK. Um... A few thoughts went through my head.
0:32:06 > 0:32:09Where's the nearest exit? That was the first one!
0:32:09 > 0:32:13- I wanted this kind of rippled effect down the outside.- Reshape it.
0:32:13 > 0:32:18You can make it more fitted by pulling the zips down.
0:32:18 > 0:32:20You fulfilled the brief
0:32:20 > 0:32:23and you've created something that's quite bonkers-looking.
0:32:23 > 0:32:26- Yep.- I'm not saying that this is something we'd
0:32:26 > 0:32:29put down a catwalk, but you've taken a big leap and you've done
0:32:29 > 0:32:33a load of work and actually it kind of almost makes sense.
0:32:33 > 0:32:37- Have you machined that on the inside? - No, I hand-sewed it.- On the outside?
0:32:37 > 0:32:41- Yes.- Because you found it was easier to control by working on the outside?
0:32:41 > 0:32:46It wouldn't stand up to any strain, however it's really wacky.
0:32:50 > 0:32:55If Stuart's dress is cheese, this is chalk.
0:32:55 > 0:32:57It couldn't be more different.
0:32:57 > 0:33:04- No.- But it is equally, in my mind, precise and elegant. It's lovely.
0:33:04 > 0:33:08The only thing I would say, Ann, it's absolutely beautiful,
0:33:08 > 0:33:10but you played safe.
0:33:14 > 0:33:18What's interesting is you've done a lot of things that are similar
0:33:18 > 0:33:22to Ann's, but you've decided to take that all the way through.
0:33:22 > 0:33:26I don't think they are quite as symmetrical
0:33:26 > 0:33:29perhaps as they could be.
0:33:29 > 0:33:33Your points, they might not be straight, but they are superb.
0:33:33 > 0:33:36- Show me.- They blend in beautifully with the garment, we've got
0:33:36 > 0:33:40no pokes or puckers, not all absolutely perfect,
0:33:40 > 0:33:44this one's a bit drunk here, but you displayed some good techniques.
0:33:51 > 0:33:53I...
0:33:53 > 0:33:55I really like it.
0:33:55 > 0:33:59I think, you know, you've adhered to your brief, which is
0:33:59 > 0:34:02you've dramatically changed the shape of this dress.
0:34:02 > 0:34:05The fact you've got this pleat popping out has produced this
0:34:05 > 0:34:09almost bustle-like effect on the back, which really gives it
0:34:09 > 0:34:13a beautiful silhouette from the side, as well as from the front.
0:34:13 > 0:34:16It really creates a very dramatic shape.
0:34:16 > 0:34:19This is very different to what we've seen from you so far
0:34:19 > 0:34:22and I really like it.
0:34:27 > 0:34:30A huge well done on your second challenge.
0:34:30 > 0:34:34Normally, you'd be going home at this point, but your third
0:34:34 > 0:34:37and final challenge of the semi-final is a really big one.
0:34:37 > 0:34:40So if you don't mind, we'll start on it tonight.
0:34:40 > 0:34:43Go, have a cup of tea, then come back to the sewing room
0:34:43 > 0:34:45and we will begin.
0:34:52 > 0:34:54At this point in the competition,
0:34:54 > 0:34:58there are two people that are incredibly closely matched.
0:34:58 > 0:35:04Both Ann and Lauren have delivered two excellent challenges.
0:35:04 > 0:35:08Lauren is excelling. She has stopped being a rabbit in the headlights.
0:35:08 > 0:35:10She has taken on board everything we have set her
0:35:10 > 0:35:13and she is really doing some wonderful work.
0:35:13 > 0:35:17I think, for me, at this moment in time, Stuart is the guy whose
0:35:17 > 0:35:21sewing across the two challenges has not been as high as the others.
0:35:21 > 0:35:23He's fun. He enjoys himself. He has a go.
0:35:23 > 0:35:26And he's grown throughout the competition
0:35:26 > 0:35:29and he just keeps surprising us with his style.
0:35:29 > 0:35:31Sandra is playing a bit safe.
0:35:31 > 0:35:34I think I'd like to see her take a few risks
0:35:34 > 0:35:38because she's such a good needlewoman and she needs to believe in herself.
0:35:38 > 0:35:40For the last challenge of the semi-final,
0:35:40 > 0:35:42the models have returned...
0:35:42 > 0:35:44Hello!
0:35:44 > 0:35:46..to be fitted with a garment
0:35:46 > 0:35:49that will test the sewers' tailoring skills.
0:35:49 > 0:35:51The judges wanted to give you tonight just to measure
0:35:51 > 0:35:54your models and cut your fabric.
0:35:54 > 0:35:57They would like you to make a jacket.
0:35:57 > 0:35:59Your time starts now.
0:35:59 > 0:36:02The sewers have an hour-and-a-half on the clock tonight.
0:36:02 > 0:36:05They have chosen the pattern and fabric for their jacket
0:36:05 > 0:36:08and had the chance to practice making them at home.
0:36:08 > 0:36:11I did do a pre-run and used my daughter.
0:36:11 > 0:36:14She was over the moon when it was on.
0:36:14 > 0:36:17It's still half-finished, but there we go.
0:36:17 > 0:36:19But with so many parts to each jacket,
0:36:19 > 0:36:21constructing it to fit their model perfectly...
0:36:21 > 0:36:24If you inhale, breathe in.
0:36:24 > 0:36:27..means there are plenty of opportunities for mistakes
0:36:27 > 0:36:30to be made and the Savile Row judge will spot any errors.
0:36:30 > 0:36:33Is this the hardest thing you've asked our sewers to do?
0:36:33 > 0:36:35I think it is the most technically demanding.
0:36:35 > 0:36:38We've been testing dress-making techniques today.
0:36:38 > 0:36:41In this challenge, we're going to test their ability to tailor a garment.
0:36:41 > 0:36:45- What are you after? Simplicity or beautiful execution?- Both.
0:36:45 > 0:36:49The more ambitious they are, the more we will credit them.
0:36:49 > 0:36:54Although it looks simple, there is a lot of work goes on inside this.
0:36:54 > 0:36:58I'm going to have to cut corners, a lot of corners.
0:36:58 > 0:37:01Ann's jacket is the classic boucle tweed,
0:37:01 > 0:37:03edge-to-edge style with no collar.
0:37:04 > 0:37:08This is the fabric that I'm using and it comes from Linton Tweed.
0:37:08 > 0:37:11I bought it over the Internet.
0:37:11 > 0:37:13That famous boucle tweed that everybody knows
0:37:13 > 0:37:18and assumes is French, it's made in the north-west of England.
0:37:18 > 0:37:20And it's wonderful.
0:37:20 > 0:37:23And there are so many mills in Yorkshire and across Scotland
0:37:23 > 0:37:25that are making for the very best couture houses
0:37:25 > 0:37:29and fashion houses in France and Italy and we don't celebrate it.
0:37:29 > 0:37:31- We don't know about it. - It's beautiful.
0:37:31 > 0:37:33It's something to be incredibly proud of.
0:37:33 > 0:37:38I've tried to do something on the jacket that I haven't done before.
0:37:38 > 0:37:44The collar overlaps and the jacket just comes edge to edge.
0:37:44 > 0:37:47Sandra's softly tailored fine burgundy tweed jacket
0:37:47 > 0:37:51has a wrap collar. But the fabric is already giving her problems.
0:37:51 > 0:37:55It is going to fray rather badly.
0:37:55 > 0:37:59My first step, I wasn't going to, will be to neaten all the edges
0:37:59 > 0:38:03before I even do anything else, to stop it fraying.
0:38:03 > 0:38:08The fabric that I'm using for the main part of the jacket
0:38:08 > 0:38:10is what's called boiled wool.
0:38:10 > 0:38:14The benefit of it is when you cut it, the edges don't fray.
0:38:14 > 0:38:17Stuart's boiled wool will become a boxy loose-fitting
0:38:17 > 0:38:21Alpine-style jacket with a stand-up Nehru collar.
0:38:21 > 0:38:24Stuart and, to a certain extent, Sandra, are making their garment
0:38:24 > 0:38:29and going to fit it on the fly which may work, it may not.
0:38:29 > 0:38:32Ann is taking the approach we would take in Savile Row,
0:38:32 > 0:38:35which is she is basting the jacket together,
0:38:35 > 0:38:37very lightly sewing it together
0:38:37 > 0:38:39and then it's not sewn properly until it fits correctly.
0:38:39 > 0:38:42So you can make quite substantial adjustments very simply.
0:38:44 > 0:38:46This won't be my actual jacket.
0:38:46 > 0:38:49This is the toile, which is a sort of practice jacket
0:38:49 > 0:38:51so that you can get the sizing right.
0:38:51 > 0:38:55Lauren is first making her jacket in a cheap calico cotton.
0:38:55 > 0:38:59Once it fits perfectly, she will use this toile as a template.
0:38:59 > 0:39:02I've had so many issues with fit before
0:39:02 > 0:39:07that I wanted to try and do every attempt to make the jacket fit.
0:39:07 > 0:39:12Her tweed-fitted hacking jacket will be lined with pink satin.
0:39:12 > 0:39:16- I've almost made the toile. - Wow! That's good going.
0:39:16 > 0:39:19But then I've not cut out anything else.
0:39:19 > 0:39:25That sounds so much lengthier process than Stuart or Sandra.
0:39:25 > 0:39:28At this point, your impressions are that Lauren and Ann
0:39:28 > 0:39:32are doing it classically and will create a better garment?
0:39:32 > 0:39:35They've got a much better chance of creating a better garment.
0:39:35 > 0:39:37Guys, you have one minute left
0:39:37 > 0:39:40and then you can go home and have a lie down.
0:39:40 > 0:39:43I'm going to cut the lining and then I'm ready for construction.
0:39:46 > 0:39:51I'm just hoping a good night's sleep will bring me back refreshed.
0:39:51 > 0:39:54And I hope everybody else gets a bad night's sleep!
0:40:01 > 0:40:05# You make my heart go tick a-tick a-tock
0:40:05 > 0:40:06# Tick a-tick tock... #
0:40:06 > 0:40:10Six hours remaining in the last challenge of the semi-final.
0:40:10 > 0:40:14Stitch the shoulder seams, that's the next thing I've got to do.
0:40:14 > 0:40:17Stuart and Sandra start sewing their jackets.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22But Ann and Lauren are still fitting their garments to their models.
0:40:22 > 0:40:25They've got a way to go before their fabric goes under the machine.
0:40:25 > 0:40:28- Lauren, how are you feeling? - Not great, to be honest.- Why?
0:40:28 > 0:40:32All I can hear is the buzz of sewing machines.
0:40:32 > 0:40:35- So do you feel behind? - And here I am, cutting out.
0:40:35 > 0:40:37You've got about ten minutes left...
0:40:37 > 0:40:39I'm kidding. You're going to be absolutely fine.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42Good! Brilliant! Done!
0:40:42 > 0:40:45Sandra is now having to go back
0:40:45 > 0:40:48and neaten her fraying fabric with an overlocker.
0:40:48 > 0:40:52It cuts and encloses the edges but can cause the fabric to stretch.
0:40:52 > 0:40:54Are you finding it falling apart
0:40:54 > 0:40:57and that's why you are doing all the overlocking?
0:40:57 > 0:40:58I'm gutted I had to overlock.
0:40:58 > 0:41:00I hadn't planned time for overlocking.
0:41:00 > 0:41:03The problem is it takes so long, doesn't it?
0:41:03 > 0:41:05Stuart has already machined the front
0:41:05 > 0:41:07and back of his jacket together.
0:41:07 > 0:41:11Stuart's making a jacket that isn't totally fitted.
0:41:11 > 0:41:13It is a more casual jacket.
0:41:13 > 0:41:15Does that still have to have the same fit?
0:41:15 > 0:41:19It is not going to fit the body in the sense that this one has
0:41:19 > 0:41:21that very sculpted Savile Row shape to it
0:41:21 > 0:41:25through the side seam, but we're still going to be expecting it
0:41:25 > 0:41:28to hang straight up and down.
0:41:28 > 0:41:32A standard jacket off-the-rack is cut for an idealised form,
0:41:32 > 0:41:34but everyone is different.
0:41:34 > 0:41:37If we take Stuart's model, for example. If you just come in...
0:41:37 > 0:41:39Hello, Alfonso.
0:41:39 > 0:41:41If you look, what you see, looking at him,
0:41:41 > 0:41:43come here and have a look,
0:41:43 > 0:41:47- is this shoulder is significantly lower than that one.- Yes! Oh!
0:41:47 > 0:41:51And what's going to happen there is the jacket is going to drop and swing away that side.
0:41:51 > 0:41:54We are going to be looking for that today.
0:41:54 > 0:41:56Yeah, OK. Thank you.
0:41:56 > 0:41:59Ann is fitting her model for the second time
0:41:59 > 0:42:00with her loosely sewn jacket
0:42:00 > 0:42:03and she has realised she needs to make an adjustment.
0:42:03 > 0:42:07This is called a floating chest piece
0:42:07 > 0:42:11and it's a piece of canvas that you put in this area,
0:42:11 > 0:42:15and because my model is quite full-busted
0:42:15 > 0:42:19and has a sort of hollow in the chest there,
0:42:19 > 0:42:21this fills up that hollow.
0:42:21 > 0:42:25She is very methodically going through it. I love her process.
0:42:25 > 0:42:27Of everyone here, it's as close to the way we do it.
0:42:27 > 0:42:30I just hope she gets it finished.
0:42:30 > 0:42:35Stuart is going to have to finish his to a quite exceptional standard.
0:42:35 > 0:42:40In the fitting he did, he chucked it on the model for a few seconds
0:42:40 > 0:42:42and said, "That looks fine."
0:42:42 > 0:42:46So it really had better be a good fit.
0:42:46 > 0:42:49Sandra is actually overlocking everything and I think
0:42:49 > 0:42:54only because her fabric, when she cut it out, it just started to fall apart.
0:42:57 > 0:43:00Three hours have gone in the challenge
0:43:00 > 0:43:03and Lauren still hasn't started sewing her jacket together.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08And that's not her only problem.
0:43:14 > 0:43:17I've lost, basically I've lost a bit of my jacket.
0:43:20 > 0:43:22I've not got enough fabric.
0:43:23 > 0:43:26With one vital piece missing,
0:43:26 > 0:43:29she is at a standstill and might not be able to finish the challenge.
0:43:36 > 0:43:38I can smell the tension.
0:43:38 > 0:43:41Four-and-a-half hours to go.
0:43:41 > 0:43:44Every week on the show, we give you a how-to guide.
0:43:44 > 0:43:47How to make something lovely for the home.
0:43:47 > 0:43:50This week, curtains.
0:43:51 > 0:43:55Cut your fabric and lining material to size.
0:43:55 > 0:43:57Press and hem both panels.
0:43:58 > 0:44:01Place them on top of each other, leaving the lining
0:44:01 > 0:44:04around five centimetres shorter than the curtain fabric at the bottom.
0:44:04 > 0:44:09Pin together then stitch the lining to the curtain along the side seams.
0:44:09 > 0:44:11At the top edge, fold in both layers
0:44:11 > 0:44:15and pin the heading tape along the width of the curtain.
0:44:15 > 0:44:18This is where you will attach the hooks.
0:44:18 > 0:44:23Fold the raw edges under the tape and stitch it in position.
0:44:24 > 0:44:27Tuck in curtain weights along the bottom hem and hand-sew them in.
0:44:27 > 0:44:31This will help it hang smoothly.
0:44:31 > 0:44:34Neaten the edges by folding in the hem on all remaining sides
0:44:34 > 0:44:37and corners and hand finish.
0:44:37 > 0:44:41Press and lightly steam on the wrong side up.
0:44:41 > 0:44:44Finally, draw up the strings from both ends of the tape,
0:44:44 > 0:44:49distributing the gathers evenly, and secure with a knot.
0:44:50 > 0:44:52Your curtains are now ready to hang.
0:44:57 > 0:45:01The sewers have four hours left to finish their jackets...
0:45:07 > 0:45:10..and Lauren needs to make up valuable time.
0:45:10 > 0:45:16I just thought I'd lost a bit but I found it, so panic over.
0:45:16 > 0:45:18I do really want to win.
0:45:18 > 0:45:21I know I can do it, it's just doing it in the time.
0:45:21 > 0:45:23It's just really hard.
0:45:23 > 0:45:25One of us is going to be leaving.
0:45:25 > 0:45:29I don't want to see anybody go and I don't want to see myself go.
0:45:29 > 0:45:31I'm pretending it's not going to happen
0:45:31 > 0:45:34and I'm just trying to keep as focused as I can.
0:45:36 > 0:45:41Ann is the only sewer to have chosen a tweed fabric with a pattern.
0:45:41 > 0:45:43When I put this on,
0:45:43 > 0:45:50the stripes of the jacket match up with the pink stripes going across.
0:45:50 > 0:45:52With Patrick's eagle eye on us today,
0:45:52 > 0:45:54they're going to match,
0:45:54 > 0:45:57they're going to match as well as I can get them to match.
0:45:57 > 0:46:01Once the main body of the jackets are sewn together,
0:46:01 > 0:46:05the sleeves can be fitted into the armholes.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08This is the bit that I'm most nervous about messing up.
0:46:09 > 0:46:12I'm putting my first sleeve in.
0:46:12 > 0:46:16The sleeve head is bigger than the hole it's going into.
0:46:16 > 0:46:21So this bit here is bigger than the bit it is being inserted into.
0:46:21 > 0:46:23So it literally needs to curve
0:46:23 > 0:46:26and be gathered round to actually mould and sit into the armhole,
0:46:26 > 0:46:30and that is quite a skilful thing to do
0:46:30 > 0:46:34because you are making a large area sit smoothly and roundly
0:46:34 > 0:46:37into a smaller area.
0:46:37 > 0:46:40It's a delicate process called easing.
0:46:40 > 0:46:43Most sewers pin the fabric in place before machining
0:46:43 > 0:46:46to ensure the sleeve head is gathered without puckers
0:46:46 > 0:46:49or pleats into the smaller armhole.
0:46:50 > 0:46:52The fabric, because it's stretchy,
0:46:52 > 0:46:56all the way through the construction that's been a little bit of a pain
0:46:56 > 0:46:59but now, I can actually stretch and put them together
0:46:59 > 0:47:02and that's where a bit of give in the fabric
0:47:02 > 0:47:04is actually really helpful.
0:47:04 > 0:47:08But not everyone is having to ease their sleeves.
0:47:08 > 0:47:10Bit tight around the back.
0:47:10 > 0:47:14Sandra's raglan sleeves attach higher up at the collar
0:47:14 > 0:47:17and that's where her easing issue lies.
0:47:17 > 0:47:20It fits around the jacket like that.
0:47:20 > 0:47:23But overlocking all the edges of her fraying fabric
0:47:23 > 0:47:27has caused the hole for Sandra's collar to stretch out of shape.
0:47:27 > 0:47:32It fits but not as nicely as I would have liked it to.
0:47:32 > 0:47:36- It's now larger than her collar piece.- I shall just ease that in.
0:47:36 > 0:47:38We will have to sort of stretch it a bit.
0:47:38 > 0:47:40It will stretch because it's wool,
0:47:40 > 0:47:42but I don't really want to give it that much.
0:47:49 > 0:47:51Half an hour left, that's half an hour.
0:47:52 > 0:47:56There is just time for hemming and any decorative touches.
0:47:56 > 0:47:58The fabric itself has got a mind of its own
0:47:58 > 0:48:01so I'm having to speak to it very, very firmly.
0:48:01 > 0:48:05I'm feeling rushed.
0:48:07 > 0:48:10The nature of the jacket is the fact it's an outer garment that has to look smart.
0:48:10 > 0:48:13We're looking for really beautiful, clean lines.
0:48:13 > 0:48:16We're looking for a very, very even distribution of fullness.
0:48:16 > 0:48:19Everyone, you have ten minutes left. That's ten minutes.
0:48:21 > 0:48:23Talk about working fast!
0:48:23 > 0:48:26I'm going to be sewing right to the end.
0:48:26 > 0:48:31We are looking for beautiful shaping and beautiful shoulders.
0:48:31 > 0:48:33I've got another sleeve to do.
0:48:33 > 0:48:35I shan't get the lining fastened down.
0:48:35 > 0:48:38They are just going to crucify me!
0:48:38 > 0:48:40It can't be a soppy garment.
0:48:40 > 0:48:42It's got to be precise.
0:48:42 > 0:48:44All right, then!
0:48:44 > 0:48:46I've got cramp in my fingers!
0:48:47 > 0:48:51I know it's not perfect but I think I have done enough.
0:48:51 > 0:48:56You have one minute left. One minute.
0:48:56 > 0:48:59More haste, less speed.
0:48:59 > 0:49:01Take that to Savile Row, Patrick!
0:49:01 > 0:49:05Five, four,
0:49:05 > 0:49:07three, two, one.
0:49:08 > 0:49:11- Brilliant. - SHE CLAPS
0:49:13 > 0:49:17Absolutely exhausted. Really exhausted.
0:49:17 > 0:49:20It was a sewing marathon.
0:49:20 > 0:49:23I don't think I've pressed it as much as I could.
0:49:23 > 0:49:26My hand-sewing isn't neat because I was doing it so quickly.
0:49:26 > 0:49:29I think my jacket looks OK on my model.
0:49:29 > 0:49:31In fact, I think she looks rather good in it.
0:49:31 > 0:49:35Everybody else has managed to finish and I haven't.
0:49:35 > 0:49:37I would say I'm going home.
0:49:37 > 0:49:40Lauren, please bring your girl up.
0:49:51 > 0:49:52OK.
0:49:57 > 0:50:00It is sitting quite level all the way around.
0:50:00 > 0:50:04The shoulders look like they are nice fit.
0:50:04 > 0:50:07You have kept the softness in the front, which I think is nice.
0:50:07 > 0:50:09Can I just have a quick look at the back?
0:50:09 > 0:50:11- It is a bit full there.- That's fine.
0:50:11 > 0:50:14You need a bit of back drape there to give you a bit of movement.
0:50:14 > 0:50:17If it's drum tight across the back, that's not going to work.
0:50:17 > 0:50:19Can we have a look at the inside?
0:50:21 > 0:50:24The finish on the inside is good.
0:50:24 > 0:50:26You'd neatened absolutely everything
0:50:26 > 0:50:29so there's no falling apart with this jacket, is there?
0:50:45 > 0:50:47Initially, I'm looking just at the front tipping up,
0:50:47 > 0:50:50which is a shame,
0:50:50 > 0:50:53- because this bit is just sitting up a bit.- I know.
0:50:53 > 0:50:57So the collar, sitting really well at the front. Nice and flat.
0:50:57 > 0:51:01- Your sleeve seam is just slightly tipping forward, isn't it?- Yes.
0:51:01 > 0:51:05Because you have overlocked the fabric and it stretched slightly.
0:51:05 > 0:51:07Overlooking stretched everything.
0:51:07 > 0:51:10It's pulling it out of shape as you were working it, which is a shame.
0:51:10 > 0:51:12Are we going to have a look inside?
0:51:12 > 0:51:16So the lining has been put in nicely. Not finished, but...
0:51:16 > 0:51:18Obviously, we've run out of time
0:51:18 > 0:51:22but what you have managed to do inside is neat and well managed.
0:51:36 > 0:51:39Slightly out of balance but not horrendously so.
0:51:39 > 0:51:43We're just not quite the perfect circle around the neck
0:51:43 > 0:51:45but a really nice curve into the back.
0:51:45 > 0:51:49So we've got a vertical line coming down here which means
0:51:49 > 0:51:53that your sleeve has been set in really symmetrically
0:51:53 > 0:51:56and you've got a lovely vertical line so it's got balance.
0:51:56 > 0:51:59Your fabric is just shouting, "this is a straight line",
0:51:59 > 0:52:00and you've done it.
0:52:00 > 0:52:03Round the back you've got a horizontal line
0:52:03 > 0:52:07going across the back here, balancing across from shoulder to shoulder.
0:52:07 > 0:52:09Shall we have a look inside?
0:52:09 > 0:52:13I think the finish inside is worthy of the finish on the outside.
0:52:13 > 0:52:16So there is a lot in here that is done very much to the standard
0:52:16 > 0:52:19that we would do it on Savile Row.
0:52:36 > 0:52:40The sleeves seem to be tipping off the shoulder is a little bit
0:52:40 > 0:52:42and perhaps could come across a bit.
0:52:42 > 0:52:45- I think they're supposed to be a bit higher up, aren't they?- Yes.
0:52:45 > 0:52:49I'm a bit disappointed that the binding around the top hasn't gone
0:52:49 > 0:52:51right into the seam. You have done that both sides.
0:52:51 > 0:52:54I'm going to undo it
0:52:54 > 0:52:56and just see how it falls when it is not buttoned up.
0:52:56 > 0:53:00What we are seeing now is what I suspected.
0:53:00 > 0:53:03I think when you did your fitting, I was watching,
0:53:03 > 0:53:06I don't think you spent long enough fitting him.
0:53:06 > 0:53:10It's here where, because he;s significantly dropped that side,
0:53:10 > 0:53:15- you know, you can see it at the bottom there quite clearly.- Yeah.
0:53:24 > 0:53:26The sewers can do no more.
0:53:26 > 0:53:29They can only wait for Patrick and May's decision.
0:53:29 > 0:53:33It would be wonderful to be in the final. Just being part of it.
0:53:33 > 0:53:39I think, I think that is what will be so great.
0:53:39 > 0:53:42"Oh, I've got through to the final!"
0:53:42 > 0:53:49I think I would feel a little guilty if I went through,
0:53:49 > 0:53:53in the fact that Stuart did as well as me.
0:53:53 > 0:53:57I'm sad that the challenges have come to an end,
0:53:57 > 0:53:59but I hope against hope
0:53:59 > 0:54:01that maybe I will get the chance to do it all one more time.
0:54:01 > 0:54:05I want one of those places in the final.
0:54:05 > 0:54:08I've put so much effort in, to not get one of those places,
0:54:08 > 0:54:10I would be devastated.
0:54:14 > 0:54:17You are about to choose who goes into the final.
0:54:17 > 0:54:21Why don't you take out the pieces that have worried you the most.
0:54:23 > 0:54:26There goes Sandra's jacket. And for you, Patrick?
0:54:26 > 0:54:31I think we have to put Stuart's dress alteration.
0:54:31 > 0:54:34Let's talk about Stuart in general. Sometimes he's completely wowed you.
0:54:34 > 0:54:37I've loved watching him develop and I have loved watching him sew
0:54:37 > 0:54:39but I think in the final,
0:54:39 > 0:54:44we need three people who are going to wow us with their sewing capability.
0:54:44 > 0:54:50Sandra is clearly a better sewer but she continually leaves things
0:54:50 > 0:54:53incomplete, and I think that is her great difficulty.
0:54:53 > 0:54:57Stuart is not such a great sewer but he gets the job done
0:54:57 > 0:55:00and I think therein lies the difficulty that we face,
0:55:00 > 0:55:03because we don't want to get into the last week
0:55:03 > 0:55:05and see half finished garments.
0:55:17 > 0:55:22As you know, every week, the judges choose their best piece.
0:55:22 > 0:55:26Our favourite piece for this week was...
0:55:26 > 0:55:30Ann's jacket which was, quite simply, beautiful.
0:55:30 > 0:55:31APPLAUSE
0:55:31 > 0:55:34- Oh, how lovely! - Gorgeous.
0:55:34 > 0:55:40Now, somebody's going to be leaving The Sewing Bee.
0:55:40 > 0:55:42The judges found it incredibly difficult
0:55:42 > 0:55:45because you've all just done extraordinary things
0:55:45 > 0:55:47at such a high standard,
0:55:47 > 0:55:52so I'm incredibly sorry to say the person who is leaving us...
0:55:57 > 0:55:59..is Stuart.
0:55:59 > 0:56:02I'm sorry. I don't want you to go.
0:56:02 > 0:56:04Well done. Well done.
0:56:04 > 0:56:06- We will miss you. - Absolutely fine.
0:56:06 > 0:56:09We wanted to say how hard it was
0:56:09 > 0:56:12because you have listened to everything we said.
0:56:12 > 0:56:16You've brought so much of a sense of fun to sewing
0:56:16 > 0:56:19that you need to be applauded for doing that
0:56:19 > 0:56:23because, you know, there is a joy in everything you do here.
0:56:23 > 0:56:24Thank you very much.
0:56:24 > 0:56:27Thank you for letting me have the opportunity to stay as long.
0:56:27 > 0:56:30- Are you crying, Sandra? - No.
0:56:35 > 0:56:39Thank you so much for the opportunity. I really appreciate it.
0:56:39 > 0:56:42For the judges to say that I brought a sense of fun
0:56:42 > 0:56:46and a joy to sewing, that's why I do it.
0:56:49 > 0:56:52And if I've communicated that, fabulous.
0:56:52 > 0:56:54We shall really miss you.
0:56:54 > 0:56:57- I know. - It's been lovely knowing you.
0:56:57 > 0:57:01Ann, Lauren and Sandra will see this journey through
0:57:01 > 0:57:05right to the very end, and I'm sad I won't be there with them,
0:57:05 > 0:57:07but the bigger picture is that I've made friends here
0:57:07 > 0:57:11that I'll have for the rest of my life.
0:57:11 > 0:57:14Come here. Mm! Well done.
0:57:16 > 0:57:18Well done.
0:57:20 > 0:57:23I'm buying you a bottle of wine tonight!
0:57:23 > 0:57:27Now, THAT, I will take you up on!
0:57:27 > 0:57:32If you want to sew or be creative or do anything else, do it.
0:57:32 > 0:57:36Enjoy it, because anyone can be creative.
0:57:36 > 0:57:39It doesn't matter how old you are, male, female,
0:57:39 > 0:57:42or what your experience or how much money you've got or how little,
0:57:42 > 0:57:44you just enjoy it.
0:57:55 > 0:57:57I've just got to try and do it for him.
0:57:57 > 0:58:02I've got to try and win for Stuart, to justify my place here.
0:58:03 > 0:58:07At the final, Lauren, Sandra
0:58:07 > 0:58:11and Ann tackle a complex pattern for a man's shirt.
0:58:11 > 0:58:14This is definitely the hardest. So complicated.
0:58:14 > 0:58:18Tension mounts when they're asked to demonstrate hand-sewing skills.
0:58:18 > 0:58:20It's like the blind leading the blind.
0:58:20 > 0:58:23Come on, you are great.
0:58:23 > 0:58:26And they create stunning evening gowns...
0:58:26 > 0:58:28The fight isn't over yet.
0:58:28 > 0:58:31..before one of them takes the title.
0:58:31 > 0:58:37The winner of The Great British Sewing Bee is...
0:58:39 > 0:58:42Feeling ready to sharpen up your sewing skills?
0:58:42 > 0:58:43Visit...
0:58:45 > 0:58:48..to find tips and ideas featured in the series.
0:58:58 > 0:59:01Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd