Episode 2

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05It's week two in our search for Britain's best amateur sewer.

0:00:05 > 0:00:08Last week everybody used the following word a lot - godet.

0:00:08 > 0:00:11All the time! If you know what one is, call me.

0:00:12 > 0:00:15The sewers started off by tackling basic fabrics -

0:00:15 > 0:00:17cotton, wool and silk.

0:00:17 > 0:00:19Not really my colour.

0:00:20 > 0:00:23Heather's cotton top won the first challenge.

0:00:23 > 0:00:25It is absolutely beautiful.

0:00:25 > 0:00:28- Tamara proved... - Oh, that's nice!

0:00:28 > 0:00:30..a master of transformation.

0:00:30 > 0:00:33All together, it has been a big success.

0:00:33 > 0:00:35That back's lovely, I love that!

0:00:35 > 0:00:37But it was Julie's silk diamante nightie...

0:00:37 > 0:00:40You don't get these in Marks & Spencer, you know!

0:00:40 > 0:00:41..that won garment of the week.

0:00:45 > 0:00:48This week the sewers face patterned fabric.

0:00:48 > 0:00:52Any competent sewer needs to know how to handle pattern.

0:00:52 > 0:00:53Patterns have to work well,

0:00:53 > 0:00:55they have to flow well through the garment.

0:00:55 > 0:00:59So who can make a pattern flow around a pleated skirt?

0:01:00 > 0:01:02Which way shall I make it fit?

0:01:02 > 0:01:05How on earth will they combine two men's shirts?

0:01:05 > 0:01:07This is guerrilla sewing!

0:01:08 > 0:01:11- And which patterned pyjamas... - Bung those on.

0:01:11 > 0:01:13..will produce the perfect fit?

0:01:13 > 0:01:15- My model's got particularly good legs.- Absolutely.

0:01:18 > 0:01:20Patrick had my 'jamas on!

0:01:45 > 0:01:47The nine sewers return to the sewing room.

0:01:47 > 0:01:51They have no idea what two garments they'll be asked to make today...

0:01:53 > 0:01:55..but one thing they CAN be sure of -

0:01:55 > 0:01:58one of them will be asked to leave at the end of tomorrow.

0:02:00 > 0:02:01Lovely to see you all again.

0:02:01 > 0:02:05This week the judges would like to see

0:02:05 > 0:02:08how you deal with patterned fabric.

0:02:09 > 0:02:11Simon looks nervous!

0:02:11 > 0:02:14Of course, first challenge is the pattern challenge.

0:02:14 > 0:02:16I hope May's been nice, its only week two.

0:02:16 > 0:02:20- What have you chosen? - We'd like you to make a skirt,

0:02:20 > 0:02:22with box pleats at the front and the back

0:02:22 > 0:02:25and a zip in the side seam.

0:02:25 > 0:02:30And we would like you all to choose a clearly patterned fabric.

0:02:30 > 0:02:34We are going to be looking for the matching of the pattern

0:02:34 > 0:02:37through the pleats and all the way round the skirt.

0:02:37 > 0:02:42Good luck, you have three hours. Your time starts now!

0:02:43 > 0:02:47The Sewing Bee's haberdashery's full of different patterned fabrics.

0:02:47 > 0:02:50I don't work with patterned fabric a lot,

0:02:50 > 0:02:52because it takes you twice as long to make the things

0:02:52 > 0:02:55because you've got to constantly match things up.

0:02:55 > 0:02:59Which design the sewers choose could determine how successful they'll be.

0:03:01 > 0:03:04I want something pretty, maybe with a bigger print

0:03:04 > 0:03:06so it's easy to match up.

0:03:06 > 0:03:08It's like doing wallpaper.

0:03:11 > 0:03:15The fabric should match horizontally across four box pleats,

0:03:15 > 0:03:18two at the front of the skirt and two at the back.

0:03:18 > 0:03:22Each pleat should be 4cm deep on either side,

0:03:22 > 0:03:24and they're created by folding the fabric in on itself

0:03:24 > 0:03:27in opposite directions. Once folded,

0:03:27 > 0:03:31the design should appear to run uninterrupted across the pleats.

0:03:31 > 0:03:34As long as they make allowance for the fact, you know,

0:03:34 > 0:03:38if the pattern isn't going to work with that depth of pleat,

0:03:38 > 0:03:40they could change it, but what they have to bear in mind is,

0:03:40 > 0:03:44if you make these pleats deeper, you're shortening this distance

0:03:44 > 0:03:45all the way around, and if they don't sit

0:03:45 > 0:03:47and think about it before they start,

0:03:47 > 0:03:50they are going to put themselves in an impossible situation later on.

0:03:51 > 0:03:54I'm just looking to see how big the pleat is.

0:03:54 > 0:03:57I've never done a box-pleat skirt before.

0:03:57 > 0:03:59I'm feeling quite good about this challenge.

0:03:59 > 0:04:02I think I deal with the ones you don't know about quite well.

0:04:05 > 0:04:07Jenni is the lead singer of a band.

0:04:07 > 0:04:09Her husband Kirk plays lead guitar

0:04:09 > 0:04:11and she makes most of their stage clothes.

0:04:11 > 0:04:14Anything that's lying around the house

0:04:14 > 0:04:16is being turned into any kind of garment.

0:04:16 > 0:04:19Shirts are being cut up, curtains are being cut up.

0:04:19 > 0:04:22No matter how crazy, Jenni seems to the able to make it.

0:04:24 > 0:04:27I'm making sure my pattern is the same on both skirts,

0:04:27 > 0:04:30so where it ends, it ends on the same side.

0:04:30 > 0:04:31So that's where I am at the moment.

0:04:33 > 0:04:34- Good morning.- Hello.

0:04:34 > 0:04:38How did the width of these pleats match with the width of your design?

0:04:38 > 0:04:40- How's that going to look through the pleat?- Absolutely no idea!

0:04:43 > 0:04:46When making clothes for her job as a children's entertainer,

0:04:46 > 0:04:49Tamara never worries about pattern-matching.

0:04:49 > 0:04:50I think Tamara, when she's sewing,

0:04:50 > 0:04:53a lot of character comes out in her work,

0:04:53 > 0:04:56and lots of bright colours, lots of flamboyant things

0:04:56 > 0:05:00- and a few mistakes turn into a bit of magic.- Lovely!

0:05:00 > 0:05:06Patrick did mention, did I think about what the box pleats would do?

0:05:06 > 0:05:09I guess I understand now. If I'd chosen something quite linear,

0:05:09 > 0:05:11I could have lined up the lines.

0:05:11 > 0:05:14I chose this particular fabric

0:05:14 > 0:05:18because of a very strong repeat in its pattern.

0:05:21 > 0:05:24Heather's been making clothes for the last 40 years,

0:05:24 > 0:05:26including the dress she wore on her wedding day.

0:05:26 > 0:05:28Aw!

0:05:29 > 0:05:31Shortly after I first met her, I got exposed to

0:05:31 > 0:05:34this side of her. We were going out to a party and she said,

0:05:34 > 0:05:37"I know, I'll just go and get some material and make a blouse to wear."

0:05:37 > 0:05:39Three hours later this beautiful garment appeared,

0:05:39 > 0:05:42and I said, "Yeah, that's really quite cool!"

0:05:42 > 0:05:46The challenge of creating a box-pleated skirt with a pattern

0:05:46 > 0:05:49is to make sure when the box pleats are closed,

0:05:49 > 0:05:53the pattern is absolutely seamless and continuous.

0:05:56 > 0:05:59Which way shall I make it fit?

0:05:59 > 0:06:02To ensure continuity of pattern across the pleats,

0:06:02 > 0:06:05the sewers need to mark out where the fold should go.

0:06:05 > 0:06:07Can I borrow your pencil?

0:06:07 > 0:06:10- I don't know what I've done with mine!- Yeah, help yourself.

0:06:11 > 0:06:13They look like bingo pens.

0:06:13 > 0:06:14Bingo pens!

0:06:14 > 0:06:16They do, don't they?

0:06:16 > 0:06:20- I don't know, I've never been to bingo.- Well, you wouldn't!

0:06:22 > 0:06:25When Julie sews with patterned fabric,

0:06:25 > 0:06:27she uses local Yorkshire tweeds and checks.

0:06:27 > 0:06:30Julie uses different materials and different patterns,

0:06:30 > 0:06:34she mixes and matches them up, but somehow it does tend to come off.

0:06:34 > 0:06:36She's very good at it.

0:06:36 > 0:06:39I tend to go for a plain skirt.

0:06:39 > 0:06:42I don't think box pleats particularly suit me.

0:06:42 > 0:06:44I always think they add weight to you.

0:06:44 > 0:06:46I made a skirt with box pleats for my O Level,

0:06:46 > 0:06:50when I was about 15, so I think that was the last time.

0:06:50 > 0:06:54Cerina usually sews with plain fabric to produce party dresses

0:06:54 > 0:06:56for herself and her daughters.

0:06:56 > 0:07:01Cerina sews mainly in the dining room and mainly after midnight.

0:07:01 > 0:07:04She just loves to express herself,

0:07:04 > 0:07:07so sewing is just an extension of that creative flair.

0:07:07 > 0:07:10Look at this! Is this a proper tool box?

0:07:10 > 0:07:13Plumber's tool box. Gingham's not really my scene.

0:07:13 > 0:07:16No. This is the best sewing kit I've ever seen!

0:07:18 > 0:07:21Last week I came eighth in the pattern challenge.

0:07:21 > 0:07:23I might do a little bit better.

0:07:23 > 0:07:27I'd just be happy to stay out of the relegation positions.

0:07:28 > 0:07:30David regularly matches patterns

0:07:30 > 0:07:33when making soft furnishings for his home.

0:07:33 > 0:07:37David has made curtains, he's made a duvet.

0:07:37 > 0:07:41One weekend, my dad and I, drinking, playing Yahtzee,

0:07:41 > 0:07:45while David and my mum were busy sewing and making a dress.

0:07:45 > 0:07:50I think the box-pleat skirt's doable. It's just matching the pattern.

0:07:50 > 0:07:54If the box pleat was exactly one check wide, it would be really easy.

0:07:56 > 0:07:58To match the pattern across the pleats,

0:07:58 > 0:08:00David could increase or decrease their depth,

0:08:00 > 0:08:04but unless he allowed for this when cutting out the fabric,

0:08:04 > 0:08:07he'll risk changing the size of his skirt around the waist.

0:08:07 > 0:08:09I would have liked the pleats on the pattern

0:08:09 > 0:08:12to match one box width, but it's slightly bigger than that.

0:08:12 > 0:08:14It's about a box and a half.

0:08:14 > 0:08:16- You can adjust it.- Yeah.

0:08:16 > 0:08:19You could deepen or make shallower those pleats,

0:08:19 > 0:08:21but then you're going to have to adjust the whole skirt

0:08:21 > 0:08:25- all the way round to make it all fit together.- Thanks, Patrick.

0:08:28 > 0:08:29Having marked out the pleats,

0:08:29 > 0:08:33it's time to see if the fabric matches once folded.

0:08:33 > 0:08:34Doesn't it look perfect, Patrick?

0:08:34 > 0:08:37Yes, it does, actually.

0:08:37 > 0:08:39Look at that! Look! You see?! Come on!

0:08:39 > 0:08:42If you peek-a-boo, it's the same underneath.

0:08:42 > 0:08:45I mean, that is pattern-matching perfection right there.

0:08:48 > 0:08:51I'm having problems already, because my fabric,

0:08:51 > 0:08:53when I line them up, the pattern doesn't continue.

0:08:53 > 0:08:55I think I might have to get another fabric,

0:08:55 > 0:08:59because maybe the width of the pleats are not good for this fabric.

0:08:59 > 0:09:02But then if I do that, I feel like I might not finish.

0:09:02 > 0:09:05Chinelo has never attempted pattern-matching...

0:09:07 > 0:09:10..although she made all the outfits for her church choir.

0:09:10 > 0:09:12Chinelo is very creative.

0:09:12 > 0:09:15I've seen Chinelo sew for about 48 hours.

0:09:15 > 0:09:18and I'm not joking. She's only had three hours' sleep in two days.

0:09:18 > 0:09:20She loves it!

0:09:20 > 0:09:2345 minutes into the challenge,

0:09:23 > 0:09:26and Chinelo is looking for a new fabric.

0:09:28 > 0:09:31- Hello.- Hello.- What's happened?

0:09:31 > 0:09:33When I've matched it up, it doesn't match.

0:09:33 > 0:09:36It's not looking like it's going to go totally invisible, the pattern.

0:09:36 > 0:09:38Oh! What about that?

0:09:40 > 0:09:42- I don't think this is a good idea. - OK.

0:09:44 > 0:09:47I'm probably just going to stick with the pattern I've got.

0:09:47 > 0:09:49That's pretty! Stick with that. That's going to be gorgeous!

0:09:49 > 0:09:51Yes, I think I'm just going to do that.

0:09:51 > 0:09:54- I'm sorry I'm not helpful. - No, no, you've been very helpful.

0:09:54 > 0:09:56- Thank you.- Where does this go?

0:09:57 > 0:10:00I have decided to stick with this fabric,

0:10:00 > 0:10:02but I'm going to cut it the other way.

0:10:02 > 0:10:05Instead of the orange going vertically,

0:10:05 > 0:10:07I'm going to make it go horizontally.

0:10:11 > 0:10:13Our sewing room's haberdashery is crammed full

0:10:13 > 0:10:17of beautiful patterned cotton that our sewers can choose from.

0:10:17 > 0:10:19Back in the 17th century,

0:10:19 > 0:10:22you could only get those fabrics on the black market,

0:10:22 > 0:10:25and therefore wearing them meant you were breaking the law!

0:10:27 > 0:10:29During the reign of Charles II,

0:10:29 > 0:10:32fashionable ladies wanted to emulate the styles at court,

0:10:32 > 0:10:36which were made of embroidered cloth and silk brocades.

0:10:36 > 0:10:38But these were prohibitively expensive

0:10:38 > 0:10:40to all but the aristocracy.

0:10:40 > 0:10:44Plain wool and linen fabrics were all that most people could afford,

0:10:44 > 0:10:47but that all changed in 1631, when the East India Company

0:10:47 > 0:10:52was granted permission to import beautiful patterned chintz,

0:10:52 > 0:10:55which was printed on much more affordable cotton.

0:10:58 > 0:11:02Giorgio, what do you mean when you say Indian chintz?

0:11:02 > 0:11:05An Indian chintz is a piece of white cotton cloth

0:11:05 > 0:11:07that has been drawn and then printed.

0:11:07 > 0:11:11The word "chintz" comes from the word "chint"

0:11:11 > 0:11:14that means to spray or to sprinkle.

0:11:15 > 0:11:19Indian craftsmen used extracts from local plants and produce,

0:11:19 > 0:11:22from lemon juice to buffalo milk to beeswax,

0:11:22 > 0:11:26to produce bright, long-lasting dyes for the production of chintz.

0:11:26 > 0:11:30The dyes were then applied by hand with a printing block.

0:11:31 > 0:11:36- So that's how it would start, with the small woodcut?- Yes.

0:11:36 > 0:11:39- This is our red. - A brilliant colour. OK.

0:11:40 > 0:11:43Like this. And that's the final result.

0:11:43 > 0:11:48What you do next is you might wish to use another block to do

0:11:48 > 0:11:52some other parts, or you might start pencilling in the colour.

0:11:52 > 0:11:54And it would end something like this?

0:11:54 > 0:11:58- Yes, this is a very complicated type of cloth.- It's so beautiful.

0:11:58 > 0:12:01- Was this very expensive? - No. It would have been quite cheap.

0:12:01 > 0:12:04This is a very ornate cloth that would have competed with

0:12:04 > 0:12:07the beautiful silks, but the silks would have been

0:12:07 > 0:12:0910, 15, 20 times more expensive.

0:12:13 > 0:12:16When chintz was first brought over from India to the UK,

0:12:16 > 0:12:20it was for bedroom furnishings, for quilts, for curtains.

0:12:20 > 0:12:23Once that fabric was worn out, it was given to the servants

0:12:23 > 0:12:24and they made clothes out of them.

0:12:24 > 0:12:28Well, this lightweight, beautiful cotton suddenly caught on,

0:12:28 > 0:12:32and from then, it was brought over to be used for dressmaking.

0:12:33 > 0:12:37Every woman suddenly wanted dresses made of affordable Indian chintz,

0:12:37 > 0:12:40and with all the colours and designs available,

0:12:40 > 0:12:43it soon became so highly fashionable that the sales of

0:12:43 > 0:12:45British wool and linen plummeted,

0:12:45 > 0:12:47leading the government to ban its import.

0:12:47 > 0:12:50The ban was put in place in 1701,

0:12:50 > 0:12:53but of course, there was a loophole.

0:12:53 > 0:12:56Basically what happened, you could import chintz

0:12:56 > 0:13:00only if it was for the export market, so you would arrive at the customs

0:13:00 > 0:13:03with your consignment of chintz,

0:13:03 > 0:13:05you would be asked where it was destined for,

0:13:05 > 0:13:08you would say the colonies, you would reload your bundles of chintz,

0:13:08 > 0:13:10and then you would sail around to Deal,

0:13:10 > 0:13:13moor off the south-east Kent coast, and of course,

0:13:13 > 0:13:16this is where you start getting the market for contraband chintz.

0:13:16 > 0:13:19So women would jump in their horse and carriages and just

0:13:19 > 0:13:22- bomb down to Kent to get themselves some new fabrics?- Absolutely.

0:13:22 > 0:13:26How risky was it wearing chintz in public?

0:13:26 > 0:13:29Unfortunately, things took a very dark turn in 1712,

0:13:29 > 0:13:31where you would get the weavers taking to the streets.

0:13:31 > 0:13:34They are actually throwing ink over women wearing chintz

0:13:34 > 0:13:36and even ripping the gowns from their backs.

0:13:38 > 0:13:42In 1759, the law banning imported chintz was lifted,

0:13:42 > 0:13:45and soon British mills started making imitation copies.

0:13:46 > 0:13:49So the next time you buy some patterned fabric,

0:13:49 > 0:13:52spare a thought for those brave women who would

0:13:52 > 0:13:55go down to the docks to get their hands on some contraband chintz.

0:14:00 > 0:14:04Two hours left to finish a box-pleated skirt.

0:14:05 > 0:14:08If they are sure they have accurately matched the pleats

0:14:08 > 0:14:11- across the front and back sections...- Here we go.

0:14:11 > 0:14:14- ..the sewers can stitch them into position.- Woo-hoo!

0:14:19 > 0:14:20Those elephants are all going that way,

0:14:20 > 0:14:23and those elephants are all going that way. Sorted!

0:14:23 > 0:14:25Happy with that!

0:14:25 > 0:14:31Right, then, "Stitch the side seams, leaving the left side open."

0:14:34 > 0:14:37Simon grew up surrounded by fabric.

0:14:37 > 0:14:40His dad is a weaver for a woollen mill in Bradford.

0:14:40 > 0:14:42I can make the cloth,

0:14:42 > 0:14:45but he just comes along and sews it all together.

0:14:45 > 0:14:50I just don't know where he gets it from, our Simon. Brilliant.

0:14:50 > 0:14:52- How are you getting along? - The pattern's gone off.

0:14:52 > 0:14:55You have to match at some point, and you also have to decide

0:14:55 > 0:14:57where it's not going to match and it's how you treat that.

0:14:57 > 0:15:00- So you've got the horizontal... - The horizontal works here,

0:15:00 > 0:15:02but once you go over the top of the soldier,

0:15:02 > 0:15:04the patterns no longer match,

0:15:04 > 0:15:07and as long as the centre looks right, then you're in good nick.

0:15:07 > 0:15:09Thank you.

0:15:13 > 0:15:15- How's it going? - I ignored the pattern,

0:15:15 > 0:15:18because they didn't work with the pattern of the fabric.

0:15:18 > 0:15:22- Did you just tell May, "I ignored the pattern"?- Yeah.

0:15:22 > 0:15:26- Wow. A brave policeman. - So why did you change your pleats?

0:15:26 > 0:15:29I adjusted my pleats, so this is one full square.

0:15:29 > 0:15:32- So you wanted complete symmetry? - Yeah.- Hold it up for us.

0:15:34 > 0:15:38- Oh, right.- Holy moly! That's for...

0:15:38 > 0:15:40Well, it would be nice for a doll.

0:15:43 > 0:15:47He's tried to make the checks totally symmetrical in both directions,

0:15:47 > 0:15:51so he's taken out too much fabric.

0:15:55 > 0:15:57Halfway through the challenge.

0:15:57 > 0:15:59Once the front and back sections are joined,

0:15:59 > 0:16:02the side seam is completed with a zip.

0:16:03 > 0:16:06Get a longer piece of cotton and we'll be away with it.

0:16:06 > 0:16:08The judges want the sewers to showcase their hand-sewing,

0:16:08 > 0:16:11so they've asked for a special kind of zip.

0:16:11 > 0:16:13- What is a lapped zip?- A lapped zip.

0:16:13 > 0:16:16You have a fold of fabric that covers the zip.

0:16:16 > 0:16:18What you do is you machine the first side in,

0:16:18 > 0:16:22and then the hand-picked zip, it's a tiny, tiny stitch.

0:16:22 > 0:16:25This is a lovely test of hand-sewing skills.

0:16:25 > 0:16:27It needs to be done delicately to look right.

0:16:28 > 0:16:30It's really big. I don't get it.

0:16:30 > 0:16:34I'm finding the instructions for the zip a little bit confusing.

0:16:34 > 0:16:37So I'm just going to put it in how I think it should go in

0:16:37 > 0:16:38and hope for the best.

0:16:39 > 0:16:43Julia's decided to go for a zip she's more familiar with.

0:16:44 > 0:16:46I'm just sewing the concealed zip in.

0:16:47 > 0:16:51A concealed or invisible zip is machine-stitched into a garment

0:16:51 > 0:16:54and involves no hand-stitching at all.

0:16:54 > 0:16:57They're going to tell me off because I'm not following the instructions.

0:16:57 > 0:16:59I know I'm going to get into trouble!

0:17:02 > 0:17:03This is an invisible zip.

0:17:03 > 0:17:06- But it asks for a lapped zip. - I know, I'm hoping they won't mind.

0:17:09 > 0:17:13- You've met May.- But invisible zips look much nicer in a side seam!

0:17:13 > 0:17:16Sweetheart, it LOOKS much nicer,

0:17:16 > 0:17:18but you'll get points for a lapped zip.

0:17:18 > 0:17:20OK.

0:17:20 > 0:17:22Linda sews for her family

0:17:22 > 0:17:25and was encouraged to enter the Sewing Bee by her daughter, Sarah.

0:17:25 > 0:17:27She would do anything for anybody.

0:17:27 > 0:17:30It's really nice to see her doing something for herself for a change.

0:17:30 > 0:17:33She made my prom dress, and she also made my wedding dress.

0:17:33 > 0:17:35I wish I could wear it every day!

0:17:36 > 0:17:41I've taken the offending zip out, and I've put a lapped zip in.

0:17:41 > 0:17:44I'm just following the instructions.

0:17:44 > 0:17:46It says, "Finish the zip by sewing the pin flap

0:17:46 > 0:17:50"with neat pin-prick stitches," so I'm doing that by hand.

0:17:50 > 0:17:53Sewers, you've got 30 minutes left.

0:17:55 > 0:17:58I'm not going to have time for this. Come on! Really?

0:17:59 > 0:18:03You know something? I think I'm ahead! Yes!

0:18:05 > 0:18:06Cool.

0:18:08 > 0:18:12I've cut a new waistband in an attempt to have it roughly match

0:18:12 > 0:18:15the pattern on the front of the skirt.

0:18:15 > 0:18:19Matching the waistband to the top of the skirt is tricky.

0:18:19 > 0:18:22It should be closer than it would have been, anyway.

0:18:24 > 0:18:27Eh-up. He's like a great white, isn't he?

0:18:30 > 0:18:32I'm just applying the waistband,

0:18:32 > 0:18:37but I've just realised that I've put it on...wrong.

0:18:37 > 0:18:40I've lined up the pattern, and that's the back of the skirt,

0:18:40 > 0:18:45not the front, so I'm just going to quickly unpick it and reapply it.

0:18:45 > 0:18:47A little bit stressed. I can't lie.

0:18:49 > 0:18:52Once attached, the waistband is finished off

0:18:52 > 0:18:54with a neat machine-sewn top stitch.

0:18:54 > 0:18:57I've just got to make sure that the top stitching here is

0:18:57 > 0:19:00perfectly perfect, right on the edge.

0:19:00 > 0:19:02But Julie's doing her own thing again.

0:19:02 > 0:19:04I'm going to hand-stitch it down,

0:19:04 > 0:19:07because I think sometimes it creates a better finish.

0:19:07 > 0:19:11I always get told off, I've just got to face that, telling off.

0:19:13 > 0:19:18- Everyone, you've got only five minutes left.- Oh, jeez! Oh, man!

0:19:23 > 0:19:27- Just little finishing touches.- I think it's sweet. I really like it.

0:19:28 > 0:19:33- I've got sweaty fingers now.- I need that chalk they give to gymnasts.

0:19:33 > 0:19:35I need some.

0:19:36 > 0:19:39- How you doing, Jen? - Have you finished?- Yes.- Oh, don't.

0:19:39 > 0:19:41Go away! I don't want to talk to you.

0:19:41 > 0:19:4560 seconds. Put the skirts on the mannequins.

0:19:45 > 0:19:47- SHE GASPS - I've got a gap there! There shouldn't be.

0:19:49 > 0:19:52Just hoping this actually does fit on my mannequin.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55I haven't seen David try his on the mannequin.

0:19:59 > 0:20:01Dave, you've done the same as me.

0:20:01 > 0:20:04I must have made it too small, and I don't know how I've done it.

0:20:05 > 0:20:08Yes! Finished. Woo-hoo!

0:20:08 > 0:20:12Because it doesn't fit, it looks better pinned on.

0:20:14 > 0:20:17Time is up.

0:20:17 > 0:20:20Please, bring your mannequins into the haberdashery.

0:20:20 > 0:20:24- Do you think they'll notice? - Asking a bit much, that, I think.

0:20:24 > 0:20:27MUSIC PLAYS

0:20:31 > 0:20:34The nine box-pleated skirts will now be judged by May and Patrick.

0:20:37 > 0:20:40Tamara, please bring your lovely skirt forward.

0:20:46 > 0:20:47This was one pattern

0:20:47 > 0:20:50- that I was worried about.- Yes.

0:20:50 > 0:20:52Actually, you've handled it extremely well.

0:20:52 > 0:20:56I mean, it runs straight down the centre and, actually,

0:20:56 > 0:20:58even on the waistband,

0:20:58 > 0:21:02this little curl here becomes a continuation through this leaf.

0:21:08 > 0:21:10I think there's an issue with the pleats at the front.

0:21:10 > 0:21:14They don't actually meet. There's a little bit of a gap there.

0:21:14 > 0:21:17Your waistband line - you're almost there in the front.

0:21:17 > 0:21:19Just a smidgen out there.

0:21:23 > 0:21:28Horizontally, this orange line that runs continually all the way

0:21:28 > 0:21:30through is pretty good.

0:21:30 > 0:21:33The prick stitching - a teensy-weensy bit smaller.

0:21:38 > 0:21:41This matching is absolutely spot-on.

0:21:41 > 0:21:45You have got a beautifully hand-picked sewn-in zip.

0:21:45 > 0:21:48I mean, this is lovely, neat, even.

0:21:48 > 0:21:50This is a really great-looking skirt.

0:21:55 > 0:21:58- The first thing I noticed... - I know, I know.

0:21:58 > 0:21:59THEY LAUGH

0:21:59 > 0:22:03I think I were that obsessed with my elephants meeting on the pleats

0:22:03 > 0:22:05that I think I must have taken too much fabric.

0:22:05 > 0:22:07And...I see...

0:22:07 > 0:22:10- I know, I know.- ..an invisible zip. - I know, I know.

0:22:10 > 0:22:14And, although the hand-stitched waistband is a pleasing look,

0:22:14 > 0:22:16- what did it say on the brief?- Yeah.

0:22:16 > 0:22:20Cos we'd like to see how well you top-stitch along an edge.

0:22:20 > 0:22:21I would've done it fantastic.

0:22:21 > 0:22:23LAUGHTER

0:22:29 > 0:22:32There is no obvious centre to this pattern but, actually, it is

0:22:32 > 0:22:34running straight up and down.

0:22:34 > 0:22:38A little bit of a gap in the pleats at the top but this...

0:22:38 > 0:22:42This lap on the zip is very neat, conceals the zip perfectly.

0:22:42 > 0:22:44Overall, it's a good sew.

0:22:49 > 0:22:53Pattern-matching-wise, we've almost got exactly the same amount

0:22:53 > 0:22:57running all the way down, but it is a shame

0:22:57 > 0:23:00that the waistband isn't quite lining up.

0:23:07 > 0:23:09That lap is really nice.

0:23:09 > 0:23:12It's...it's sitting very flush with the skirt.

0:23:12 > 0:23:14Pretty good sew altogether.

0:23:18 > 0:23:20So, I know what's happened here.

0:23:20 > 0:23:23You've adjusted the size of the pleats but what have you not done?

0:23:23 > 0:23:27- Adjusted the size of the skirt front and skirt back.- Yeah.

0:23:27 > 0:23:34It is just worth saying that those pleats are pretty near perfect.

0:23:34 > 0:23:37You've done some beautiful tiny stitches.

0:23:37 > 0:23:40- They are almost invisible, aren't they?- Yeah.

0:23:40 > 0:23:42If this mannequin was two sizes smaller,

0:23:42 > 0:23:45this would be an excellent skirt.

0:23:45 > 0:23:46But it isn't.

0:23:49 > 0:23:52Patrick and May now reveal which box-pleated skirts are the worst

0:23:52 > 0:23:54and which are the best.

0:23:54 > 0:23:58In ninth place was Julie.

0:23:58 > 0:24:00It doesn't fit the mannequin

0:24:00 > 0:24:03and generally just needs to be a little bit tidier overall.

0:24:04 > 0:24:08And in eighth place, Simon. Your pattern-matching -

0:24:08 > 0:24:10not good enough this time, I'm afraid.

0:24:12 > 0:24:14Jenni takes seventh position,

0:24:14 > 0:24:15David, sixth,

0:24:15 > 0:24:17Lynda's fifth,

0:24:17 > 0:24:18Chinelo is fourth

0:24:18 > 0:24:20and Cerina is third.

0:24:20 > 0:24:23And in second place, Tamara.

0:24:23 > 0:24:25Beautiful pattern-matching

0:24:25 > 0:24:28but your stitching could've been just a tiny bit better.

0:24:28 > 0:24:31And, obviously, number one is Heather.

0:24:31 > 0:24:32APPLAUSE

0:24:32 > 0:24:34So, congratulations to you.

0:24:36 > 0:24:39You completely followed the brief that we set

0:24:39 > 0:24:41and executed it extremely well.

0:24:41 > 0:24:42So, well done.

0:24:46 > 0:24:49What can I say? I produced a pile of rubbish

0:24:49 > 0:24:52and I got what I deserved so I can't really say much else.

0:24:52 > 0:24:56Absolutely amazing. That was a repeat performance of last week.

0:24:56 > 0:24:58How lucky can I get?

0:24:58 > 0:25:02Heather's won second time around so she's the one to watch.

0:25:02 > 0:25:05But I'm right behind you, Heather!

0:25:08 > 0:25:12OK, so that challenge was all about following instructions,

0:25:12 > 0:25:13about being precise.

0:25:13 > 0:25:17Now that has all gone - there are no instructions.

0:25:17 > 0:25:20The sewers have to use their creativity, their brains

0:25:20 > 0:25:23and, if you don't mind me using this word, their oomph.

0:25:27 > 0:25:30The next challenge - it's an alteration challenge.

0:25:30 > 0:25:33What garments have you got for them?

0:25:33 > 0:25:39This week, we have got not one but two men's shirts.

0:25:39 > 0:25:41What we are asking you to do

0:25:41 > 0:25:44is really the opposite of pattern-matching.

0:25:44 > 0:25:48It's understanding how you take two garments and combine them together

0:25:48 > 0:25:52and how you take two patterns and create something completely new.

0:25:52 > 0:25:56Let's wow them. You've got an hour and a half. The rails are in there.

0:25:56 > 0:25:57Off you go.

0:26:01 > 0:26:07- Quick, quick, quick.- Oh. - Oh, good God.- Oh, no. They're vile.

0:26:07 > 0:26:10These sewers have over 50 patterned shirts to choose from.

0:26:10 > 0:26:13They need to carefully pick two that work well together to produce

0:26:13 > 0:26:15one completely different garment.

0:26:16 > 0:26:18No. No idea.

0:26:18 > 0:26:20Patrick and May are leaving the sewers

0:26:20 > 0:26:24to get on with this challenge alone, so they'll have no idea

0:26:24 > 0:26:26who is responsible for which transformation.

0:26:28 > 0:26:30What do you hope to find out?

0:26:30 > 0:26:34What I'm hoping to see here is a kind of innate understanding

0:26:34 > 0:26:37of how shape and pattern work on the body.

0:26:37 > 0:26:38Do you want them to totally

0:26:38 > 0:26:41take these shirts apart and remodel them?

0:26:41 > 0:26:43They can completely deconstruct them

0:26:43 > 0:26:46and they can use all of the elements in them in a different way or

0:26:46 > 0:26:49they can just use bits of the shirts, but we want them to be brave.

0:26:51 > 0:26:53Hop it, missus.

0:26:56 > 0:26:59I'm trying to be conscious of the pattern

0:26:59 > 0:27:01because I know that this is pattern week

0:27:01 > 0:27:05so even though they say, "No brief," I'm pretty sure they'll crucify us

0:27:05 > 0:27:06if our pattern's messed up.

0:27:06 > 0:27:09If they want patterns they can have patterns.

0:27:09 > 0:27:11And if there's one thing I've definitely got here,

0:27:11 > 0:27:12it's lots of patterns.

0:27:16 > 0:27:18I'm going to make it a dress.

0:27:18 > 0:27:23A little girl's dress, with a gathered skirt.

0:27:24 > 0:27:26I'm enjoying ripping this up.

0:27:26 > 0:27:28Cerina has had the same thought.

0:27:28 > 0:27:31She is also making a child's dress.

0:27:31 > 0:27:35- A little sailor dress.- Oh, lovely.

0:27:35 > 0:27:38Is this something you would have ever done before?

0:27:38 > 0:27:42- I made a dress out of my wedding dress...- Did you?

0:27:42 > 0:27:45..for my 18-month-old

0:27:45 > 0:27:49- who promptly sicked up on it. - They do that.- As they do.

0:27:49 > 0:27:51That was a good use of the wedding dress.

0:27:51 > 0:27:55Jenni's planning to turn two checked shirts into a skirt.

0:27:56 > 0:27:59I've cut out the front part of my skirt

0:27:59 > 0:28:04and on the back I'm going to do alternative sides like this.

0:28:04 > 0:28:05I'm going for it. I can do this.

0:28:07 > 0:28:12- Hello.- Hello.- What are you doing?- A skirt.- A skirt.

0:28:12 > 0:28:15These are two totally different fabrics.

0:28:15 > 0:28:18- I'm just fascinated by your choice. - Well, the tones are very similar.

0:28:18 > 0:28:20The only problem is this fabric is very different than this.

0:28:20 > 0:28:24- But I quite like the fact that they are so dramatically different.- Yes.

0:28:24 > 0:28:29- You won this challenge last week. - I did. Pressure! No pressure.

0:28:29 > 0:28:33- Is that too much pressure? - No, I love this kind of thing.

0:28:33 > 0:28:38- Sewers, you have one hour left. - Serious?- I am.

0:28:38 > 0:28:42I want to see how different patterns might work next to one another

0:28:42 > 0:28:46and how those colours and patterns will be complementary to each other.

0:28:46 > 0:28:50We don't want to see a shirt that's just been cut down and altered

0:28:50 > 0:28:54and slightly changed shape and just a band added of another colour.

0:28:55 > 0:28:56What are you making?

0:28:56 > 0:29:00I was going to just sort of keep one shirt intact and add to it

0:29:00 > 0:29:03but I think I'll also give it some darts

0:29:03 > 0:29:06so that it becomes a sort of dress as well.

0:29:06 > 0:29:09- Right, so, a shirt dress. - Yes. Shirt dress.

0:29:09 > 0:29:12Heather and Julie are also making women's shirts...

0:29:12 > 0:29:16I'm going to put a couple of pleats in the back seeing as I've had

0:29:16 > 0:29:18a bit of pleat practice this morning.

0:29:18 > 0:29:21..but they're using the fabric from their second shirt

0:29:21 > 0:29:23to add more feminine features.

0:29:23 > 0:29:27I'm going to put a ruffled frill around the bottom of it.

0:29:29 > 0:29:32I'm making some scallop features for of the front.

0:29:32 > 0:29:35I've never done this before. I'm just making it up as I go along,

0:29:35 > 0:29:37but it looks more like the Loch Ness Monster.

0:29:42 > 0:29:45- What are you making?- I'm making, like, a button-down boob tube.

0:29:45 > 0:29:48- Love a boob tube.- Me too.

0:29:48 > 0:29:50And I'll cut out the sides so it gives some structure.

0:29:50 > 0:29:53- You know, give it a bit of...- Yes. - ..a nipped-in waist sort of thing.

0:29:53 > 0:29:56- It's going to be gorgeous. - That's what I'm going to...

0:29:56 > 0:29:57All right, I'll get out of your way

0:29:57 > 0:29:59- cos you guys haven't got long. - No, we haven't.

0:30:01 > 0:30:0445 minutes remaining to combine the two shirts.

0:30:07 > 0:30:11David, I feel that we're close enough that I can say this to you -

0:30:11 > 0:30:15your choice of fabric is borderline hilarious.

0:30:15 > 0:30:17It's pretty awful, isn't it?

0:30:17 > 0:30:20- Are you making a skirt? - I'm making a skirt.

0:30:20 > 0:30:23OK. You've already done that in the blue flowers.

0:30:23 > 0:30:27What are you doing in this paisley, striped...?

0:30:27 > 0:30:32I'm sticking a big triangular panel in the front.

0:30:32 > 0:30:34Oh, lovely. OK, all right.

0:30:36 > 0:30:38These are the pieces of my bow.

0:30:39 > 0:30:41Oh, gosh, what's happened there?

0:30:41 > 0:30:42If I don't get this bow done,

0:30:42 > 0:30:44my top's not going to have the effect I want it to

0:30:44 > 0:30:46and I won't have used both fabrics.

0:30:49 > 0:30:51All right - to the room for a bit of ribbon.

0:30:54 > 0:30:58Looking OK - got nice, big, shiny bit in the middle.

0:30:58 > 0:30:59OK, looks kind of dressy.

0:30:59 > 0:31:03OK, I have a skirt, so I'm halfway there, but if I can get a hem,

0:31:03 > 0:31:06I think that'll be good enough, hopefully.

0:31:08 > 0:31:10Sewers, you have 15 minutes left.

0:31:11 > 0:31:14Just adding a bit more interest, trying to make it more feminine.

0:31:16 > 0:31:18This is guerrilla sewing.

0:31:18 > 0:31:19SHE LAUGHS

0:31:21 > 0:31:22Oh, come on!

0:31:22 > 0:31:24Just breathe. Wait.

0:31:25 > 0:31:27Getting those sweaty fingers again.

0:31:31 > 0:31:35It's boring. But at least it'll be finished on time.

0:31:35 > 0:31:37I have a hem! I have a hem.

0:31:38 > 0:31:41Question is, do I push it and try to get that pocket on?

0:31:42 > 0:31:44Look at the back!

0:31:44 > 0:31:47Oh, they are going to cry with joy.

0:31:52 > 0:31:54SHE SIGHS

0:32:00 > 0:32:01I'm attached!

0:32:02 > 0:32:04OK, that's it, sewers.

0:32:04 > 0:32:06Oh, my life!

0:32:06 > 0:32:09Bring your mannequins forward and we'll jumble them up.

0:32:09 > 0:32:10Up you come.

0:32:15 > 0:32:17Patrick? May? You can enter.

0:32:18 > 0:32:19Goodness me!

0:32:21 > 0:32:24- They're amazing!- Good, isn't it?- Yup.

0:32:26 > 0:32:27# Why don't you join the group?

0:32:27 > 0:32:30# It's better than being a party poop

0:32:30 > 0:32:32# Obbligato

0:32:32 > 0:32:34# Pizzicato

0:32:34 > 0:32:35# Guy Lombardo... #

0:32:35 > 0:32:38Let's start at the beginning.

0:32:39 > 0:32:42- The bow is fabulous. - That is fantastic.

0:32:42 > 0:32:43And it's attached up here.

0:32:43 > 0:32:47- Beautifully staged. - Brilliantly draped.- It is.

0:32:47 > 0:32:50- Step forward girl number two.- Yes.

0:32:50 > 0:32:55To have the vision to take this insane-looking shirt

0:32:55 > 0:32:58and to take the sleeves and make this belt

0:32:58 > 0:33:00and this big pleat at the back.

0:33:00 > 0:33:01- It's like a cummerbund.- Yup.

0:33:01 > 0:33:02Just amazing!

0:33:03 > 0:33:08- May is genuinely freaked out. - I'm really impressed!

0:33:09 > 0:33:10Right...

0:33:10 > 0:33:15It's a little simpler in its overall concept.

0:33:15 > 0:33:18It hasn't got the flair in the colour.

0:33:21 > 0:33:25Striped shirting, cut on the diagonal.

0:33:25 > 0:33:27Tucks in the back - very effective.

0:33:30 > 0:33:35This fabric doesn't quite work for me with that other one.

0:33:36 > 0:33:38Step forward, Junior.

0:33:40 > 0:33:41This is fantastic!

0:33:41 > 0:33:44I think it's a really good choice of two fabrics.

0:33:44 > 0:33:46I think it's a good choice of trim.

0:33:46 > 0:33:48And clever to cut the little sailor collar.

0:33:48 > 0:33:51Yeah, that's terrifically clever.

0:33:51 > 0:33:52OK...

0:33:53 > 0:33:57- I mean, it's simpler... - However, we've got scallops.

0:33:57 > 0:33:59Given my non-love of scallops,

0:33:59 > 0:34:02that's not a badly executed scallop at all.

0:34:05 > 0:34:09- Again, I mean, that's a complete and utter transformation.- Yes.

0:34:09 > 0:34:13- Nice use of the spots on there. - And lovely little gathered skirt.

0:34:13 > 0:34:16Very cute and very effective.

0:34:16 > 0:34:17And finally...

0:34:19 > 0:34:22- Pleats in the back.- Yes.

0:34:22 > 0:34:26- Good use of a pocket, recycling. - Really very good.

0:34:27 > 0:34:30Patrick and May now rearrange the mannequins in the order

0:34:30 > 0:34:33of which garments demonstrate the most dramatic

0:34:33 > 0:34:34and successful transformation.

0:34:36 > 0:34:39Whoever owns number nine, please come up.

0:34:42 > 0:34:44I don't want to be associated with this garment.

0:34:44 > 0:34:46It's hideous.

0:34:46 > 0:34:48Can I tell you what our thought was?

0:34:48 > 0:34:51Of all of them, it was the least transformed.

0:34:51 > 0:34:53- It still looks like a shirt.- Yes.

0:34:53 > 0:34:57Whoever owns this lovely human, number eight.

0:34:57 > 0:34:58Heather.

0:34:58 > 0:35:02Again, it's still very similar to a shirt in appearance.

0:35:02 > 0:35:04Come on, Hermione, we're leaving.

0:35:04 > 0:35:06LAUGHTER

0:35:06 > 0:35:10David is seventh, Julie, sixth.

0:35:10 > 0:35:12Jenni is fifth.

0:35:12 > 0:35:14Lynda is fourth.

0:35:14 > 0:35:15Cerina is third.

0:35:17 > 0:35:22Could the owner of this piece please step forward?

0:35:25 > 0:35:28Amazing - really, really well done. It's a total transformation.

0:35:28 > 0:35:32It shows great understanding of the female form

0:35:32 > 0:35:34and of how material drapes.

0:35:34 > 0:35:37So you need to be incredibly proud of it.

0:35:37 > 0:35:38Well done.

0:35:38 > 0:35:42And the winner is Tamara - well done!

0:35:42 > 0:35:44APPLAUSE

0:35:44 > 0:35:48I didn't see the original shirt, but I can only imagine it was

0:35:48 > 0:35:51probably one of the foulest shirts ever to grace a human body

0:35:51 > 0:35:55and you've transformed it into something that looks really

0:35:55 > 0:35:58very modern and very cool-looking.

0:35:58 > 0:35:59Tamara, well done!

0:36:00 > 0:36:02So, a huge well done.

0:36:02 > 0:36:05Time to go home, have a nap, have a cocktail

0:36:05 > 0:36:08and we will see you tomorrow for the big one.

0:36:10 > 0:36:14So glad they saw how much effort went into the finish of that garment,

0:36:14 > 0:36:18cos I literally squeezed every ounce of energy

0:36:18 > 0:36:21and creativity out of my body and my bones to produce it.

0:36:21 > 0:36:24It's lovely to be rewarded with second place,

0:36:24 > 0:36:28but I need to win - I need to win one of these challenges soon!

0:36:30 > 0:36:34Tomorrow is a completely new challenge, a new day,

0:36:34 > 0:36:37and hopefully, this time, I am going back up.

0:36:42 > 0:36:45Just the final challenge remains - at the end of which

0:36:45 > 0:36:47one person will be awarded Garment Of The Week

0:36:47 > 0:36:50and another will be asked to leave the Sewing Bee.

0:36:51 > 0:36:54The boys didn't have a brilliant day, did they?

0:36:54 > 0:36:56David's skirt, even though he matched the pattern,

0:36:56 > 0:36:57was too small.

0:36:57 > 0:37:00Simon came last in the alteration challenge.

0:37:00 > 0:37:05I mean, if I had to put my money on somebody leaving the competition,

0:37:05 > 0:37:10I'd think it'd sit somewhere between Simon, David and Julie,

0:37:10 > 0:37:11at this point.

0:37:11 > 0:37:13Because Julie came last in the first challenge.

0:37:13 > 0:37:16The skirt wasn't brilliant, but I think she's definitely got

0:37:16 > 0:37:19more talent and skill than she showed us yesterday.

0:37:19 > 0:37:22Absolutely, yeah - I mean, Julie needs to excel today.

0:37:24 > 0:37:25In this last challenge, the sewers

0:37:25 > 0:37:29will create a made-to-measure outfit for a male model.

0:37:29 > 0:37:31- Simon - nice to meet you. - Nice to meet you.

0:37:31 > 0:37:34- I'm so happy you've got dark hair. - Yes.

0:37:34 > 0:37:36Because I've got pink fabric -

0:37:36 > 0:37:38- it's going to look lovely with your dark hair.- Great.

0:37:40 > 0:37:42For this made-to-measure challenge,

0:37:42 > 0:37:47the judges would like you to make a pair of men's pyjamas

0:37:47 > 0:37:49using a patterned fabric.

0:37:49 > 0:37:54You have six hours and your time starts...now.

0:37:56 > 0:37:58The sewers have chosen their own fabric

0:37:58 > 0:38:01and whatever style of pyjamas they fancy.

0:38:01 > 0:38:03Soft, quite soft?

0:38:03 > 0:38:05Yeah, it's nice.

0:38:05 > 0:38:07They've been given their models' measurements in advance,

0:38:07 > 0:38:10so have had the chance to practise making it at home,

0:38:10 > 0:38:13but it's the first time they've fitted it to the real person.

0:38:13 > 0:38:1542...

0:38:15 > 0:38:17Pyjamas, shouldn't it just be baggy?

0:38:17 > 0:38:20I mean, it needs to be a comfortable fit on the body,

0:38:20 > 0:38:22but we want them to make sure

0:38:22 > 0:38:24that the shoulders finish in the right point,

0:38:24 > 0:38:25the sleeves must be the right length,

0:38:25 > 0:38:28the trousers need to finish at the floor and not, you know,

0:38:28 > 0:38:29four yards beyond their feet.

0:38:29 > 0:38:31I'm just going to go and measure my model's arms,

0:38:31 > 0:38:35because I just need to make sure he hasn't got ones like an orangutan.

0:38:38 > 0:38:39I'm cutting out the pattern,

0:38:39 > 0:38:42which I've just adjusted for my model, Chris.

0:38:42 > 0:38:45He's got a long pair of legs,

0:38:45 > 0:38:48so I've had to add a couple of inches at the bottom of the pattern.

0:38:48 > 0:38:51David's brushed cotton, checked pyjamas

0:38:51 > 0:38:55have a collar trimmed with piping and elasticated trousers.

0:38:56 > 0:38:59- Have you measured this little character?- This chap? Yeah.

0:38:59 > 0:39:01- He's a big boy.- Love it.

0:39:02 > 0:39:05This fabric design is by William Morris -

0:39:05 > 0:39:07very, very traditional fabric.

0:39:07 > 0:39:09But it's been shrunk down.

0:39:09 > 0:39:10The original design would've been larger.

0:39:10 > 0:39:13Cerina's floral cotton lawn

0:39:13 > 0:39:15will become a pair of pyjamas with a large, piped collar

0:39:15 > 0:39:17and drawstring bottoms.

0:39:17 > 0:39:21Visually, what jumps out is these little pairs of carnations.

0:39:21 > 0:39:23I'll have to make sure those are in line.

0:39:24 > 0:39:27Because the stripe is quite wide,

0:39:27 > 0:39:30there's a danger of getting it exactly wrong

0:39:30 > 0:39:31rather than exactly right.

0:39:33 > 0:39:34Here we go.

0:39:34 > 0:39:36Heather's bold-stripe cotton pyjamas

0:39:36 > 0:39:39have a collar, patch pocket and elasticated trousers.

0:39:40 > 0:39:42Is this stage vital?

0:39:42 > 0:39:44Pinning on the pattern is really important,

0:39:44 > 0:39:47because when you're using a striped pattern like this,

0:39:47 > 0:39:49you need to make sure that the seams are going to match,

0:39:49 > 0:39:52that the stripes run and meet.

0:39:52 > 0:39:56- That's decided now?- Yes, absolutely. If you don't get this bit right,

0:39:56 > 0:39:59you're playing catch-up the whole way through.

0:40:00 > 0:40:03Tamara's using the busiest fabric in the room.

0:40:05 > 0:40:06Tell me how you've dealt with your pattern.

0:40:06 > 0:40:10What I've done is picked out a detail in the pattern

0:40:10 > 0:40:11which is easy to match up.

0:40:11 > 0:40:14- Underneath, I've just matched it. - Brilliant.

0:40:14 > 0:40:18I'm hoping that's going to sort me out with matching the pattern.

0:40:18 > 0:40:21- Do you think that's all right? - I'm not going to tell you.

0:40:21 > 0:40:22SHE LAUGHS

0:40:22 > 0:40:24Tamara's newsprint pyjamas

0:40:24 > 0:40:27will need to match word-for-word across the front opening

0:40:27 > 0:40:28and patch pocket.

0:40:34 > 0:40:38Simon has opted for exactly the same style of pyjamas as Tamara.

0:40:39 > 0:40:43Do you feel any particular pressure, given that your next-door neighbour

0:40:43 > 0:40:47- is making from exactly the same pattern as you?- Is she?

0:40:47 > 0:40:50- Different fabrics.- Yeah, yeah. Yeah, nice fabric.

0:40:50 > 0:40:53If I'm honest, I'd say I like yours a little more,

0:40:53 > 0:40:56but...that's just personal preference.

0:40:56 > 0:40:57SIMON LAUGHS

0:41:00 > 0:41:03Simon's brushed cotton checked pyjamas

0:41:03 > 0:41:06also have a patch pocket and drawstring trousers.

0:41:06 > 0:41:08I really like my cloth, actually.

0:41:08 > 0:41:10I'm pleased with it, cos it's lovely and soft.

0:41:10 > 0:41:12It's very traditional, Simon, just like you.

0:41:12 > 0:41:14Oh! I'm not sure how to take that.

0:41:14 > 0:41:16SHE CHUCKLES

0:41:18 > 0:41:20Good morning - tell me what you're making.

0:41:20 > 0:41:23It's a pyjama top and some shorts. Very basic.

0:41:23 > 0:41:24All right - how basic?

0:41:24 > 0:41:27Extremely basic?

0:41:27 > 0:41:29- Collar?- No collar.

0:41:29 > 0:41:30- Cuffs?- No cuffs.

0:41:30 > 0:41:32- Fly?- No fly.

0:41:32 > 0:41:35- It's going to need to be very, very good.- I know, I know.

0:41:37 > 0:41:40Chinelo's pull-on V-neck top and elasticated shorts

0:41:40 > 0:41:43are made from a crisp striped cotton.

0:41:43 > 0:41:48I'm just getting my centre folds in for the back and front.

0:41:48 > 0:41:51My plan is a basic pattern, done very well.

0:41:51 > 0:41:55I'm going for this design, because my model's got particularly good legs -

0:41:55 > 0:42:00Roddy is going to look a dude in this blue-and-white stripy number.

0:42:00 > 0:42:03- Aren't you, Roddy?- Absolutely. - Oh, he's the man.

0:42:04 > 0:42:07Julie's short-sleeved top has a contrast collar

0:42:07 > 0:42:10and the elasticated shorts have a button-fly opening.

0:42:12 > 0:42:13Is it hard to match up, though?

0:42:13 > 0:42:16It's fiddly, because of the tiny stripes.

0:42:16 > 0:42:19- That's my worry.- But it'll be effective when it's done.

0:42:22 > 0:42:24Once the fabric's cut out...

0:42:26 > 0:42:27..construction begins.

0:42:32 > 0:42:34The only thing I haven't done before is piping

0:42:34 > 0:42:36and I'm putting piping on this,

0:42:36 > 0:42:39so fingers crossed it works out as well as it should.

0:42:39 > 0:42:44Lynda's red piping will run all the way round the edge of the collar,

0:42:44 > 0:42:45down the front opening

0:42:45 > 0:42:48and across the pocket of her candy-striped pyjamas.

0:42:49 > 0:42:52- How are you getting on? - Well, I'm going to be honest.

0:42:52 > 0:42:54I've used piping, and I've never used it before.

0:42:54 > 0:42:58Well, we're looking for a very high-quality pyjama,

0:42:58 > 0:43:01so piping is important - piping is important.

0:43:06 > 0:43:08Piping is a decorative technique,

0:43:08 > 0:43:11where thin strips of fabric are sandwiched between the seams.

0:43:13 > 0:43:16Every stage of piping needs to be well-executed.

0:43:16 > 0:43:19You have to be very precise, both cutting it, making it

0:43:19 > 0:43:21and attaching it.

0:43:21 > 0:43:24Will you be very impressed by very good piping?

0:43:24 > 0:43:26- I certainly will. - Show me your impressed face.

0:43:27 > 0:43:28Oooh!

0:43:30 > 0:43:32I have no experience in piping whatsoever,

0:43:32 > 0:43:37but you can't not have a bit of piping on a bit of PJ, can you?

0:43:37 > 0:43:41Jenni's back piping will decorate her classic pyjamas,

0:43:41 > 0:43:43which are made from a complex pattern

0:43:43 > 0:43:45featuring hats and moustaches.

0:43:45 > 0:43:47This is a new experience for me.

0:43:47 > 0:43:50But hopefully, it gives me the finish I'm looking for in the pyjamas.

0:43:52 > 0:43:55Well, it's the first time I've used piping, and I've messed up

0:43:55 > 0:43:57so I'm trying to undo it to put it right.

0:43:57 > 0:44:00This has seriously messed up my timing.

0:44:02 > 0:44:06I'm just concerned that Patrick's going to say that it's too wide,

0:44:06 > 0:44:09- but I quite like it wide, so you can see it, right?- Yes!

0:44:09 > 0:44:14And if you don't sell it as piping, but as something else,

0:44:14 > 0:44:16as a flourish, as a border...

0:44:16 > 0:44:18I guess you could say border, couldn't you?

0:44:18 > 0:44:22- Which section is this? - That's the collar.

0:44:22 > 0:44:25I'm just about to get into the collar, which is the scary part.

0:44:29 > 0:44:31Mm...

0:44:32 > 0:44:35I'm just trying to work out how this collar goes on.

0:44:36 > 0:44:39What we should see is a nice, neat notch

0:44:39 > 0:44:44and these notches need to be at the same point, the same angle,

0:44:44 > 0:44:49and the pattern needs to run into them at exactly the same point.

0:44:49 > 0:44:50We need to see them finishing accurately.

0:44:53 > 0:44:55I've gone for round collars.

0:44:55 > 0:44:58They are a bit more difficult because you've got to make sure that

0:44:58 > 0:45:01the curve is the same on both sides, and symmetrical.

0:45:01 > 0:45:03I'm really trying to be careful today,

0:45:03 > 0:45:06because I had a bad day yesterday, I need to impress.

0:45:09 > 0:45:13- This is the collar, so this will get turned.- Look, perfectly matched up.

0:45:13 > 0:45:19- And hopefully, matched up into the middle.- Yeah. Come on!

0:45:21 > 0:45:2490 minutes remain to finish a pair of men's pyjamas.

0:45:30 > 0:45:35I don't want it too tight, because if it's pyjamas, it's a casual fit.

0:45:38 > 0:45:41- I think I might be a little bit ahead of Simon.- Where are you?

0:45:41 > 0:45:44- Sleeves, putting the sleeves in the shoulder.- Oh.

0:45:45 > 0:45:48That's actually our armhole, that's then the shoulder

0:45:48 > 0:45:51and then it comes back through in the armhole.

0:45:51 > 0:45:54And then what I will then do is put the two sides together...

0:45:55 > 0:45:56And so, and I have a sleeve.

0:45:56 > 0:46:01The sleeves are a tiny bit shorter than I would have liked.

0:46:01 > 0:46:02But they're OK, for pyjamas.

0:46:02 > 0:46:04You don't want them hanging in your porridge, do you?

0:46:04 > 0:46:08This is my cuff, where it sews together.

0:46:08 > 0:46:11I'm going to stitch down here, so when you fold back,

0:46:11 > 0:46:14you'll have no seam, but you'll have your piping showing.

0:46:17 > 0:46:21Chinelo has no cuffs on her pyjamas, but she is attaching a patch pocket.

0:46:21 > 0:46:23I'm just putting my pocket in,

0:46:23 > 0:46:27but I'm making sure that it disappears once I've put it in.

0:46:27 > 0:46:30So it's in, so if the pins weren't there,

0:46:30 > 0:46:33you probably wouldn't see the pocket if you looked at it from afar.

0:46:35 > 0:46:37Look at that.

0:46:38 > 0:46:40Slightly matched in terms of pattern.

0:46:40 > 0:46:43It's gone off a bit here but the pattern-matching will do, I think.

0:46:43 > 0:46:47Simon, his jacket's all over the place.

0:46:47 > 0:46:50- Did you notice the pocket doesn't match?- Oh, OK.

0:46:50 > 0:46:52It's so sad, because it's only half a check out.

0:46:53 > 0:46:56Tamara, who's doing the same pattern,

0:46:56 > 0:47:00the match across the front of that pyjama jacket is absolutely perfect.

0:47:00 > 0:47:03- Cool.- OK.- Thank you very much.

0:47:04 > 0:47:07Sewers, you have one hour left.

0:47:07 > 0:47:10One garment down, one to go.

0:47:10 > 0:47:11Trousers...

0:47:11 > 0:47:15- So the sewers fit their models for a second time...- Good boy.

0:47:15 > 0:47:16SHE CHUCKLES

0:47:16 > 0:47:19..to ensure the trousers are roomy around the seat...

0:47:19 > 0:47:21That's great. OK, lovely, thanks.

0:47:21 > 0:47:23..before sewing up the side seams.

0:47:28 > 0:47:32- Bung those on.- Like that? - Yeah, stick 'em on like that.

0:47:37 > 0:47:41- They might be on backwards, turn around?- Feels like it.

0:47:41 > 0:47:42Yeah!

0:47:42 > 0:47:45Take them off, put them on the right way round.

0:47:45 > 0:47:46He had them on backwards.

0:47:49 > 0:47:51David's trousers are a rather snug fit.

0:47:51 > 0:47:53It's supposed to sit on the hip.

0:47:53 > 0:47:55But there's not really very much he can do.

0:47:55 > 0:47:58As I was just testing the size, he's ripped the seam.

0:48:01 > 0:48:03The trousers should be secured at the top

0:48:03 > 0:48:05with a drawstring or elasticated waistband,

0:48:05 > 0:48:09but some sewers are also attempting to insert a fly.

0:48:09 > 0:48:13I've done a classic fly. I've never done it before.

0:48:13 > 0:48:15But I thought it went with the traditional-type pyjamas

0:48:15 > 0:48:17that I've made.

0:48:17 > 0:48:21This is the fly. Oh, I've just sewn it shut, haven't I?

0:48:21 > 0:48:23SHE LAUGHS

0:48:25 > 0:48:28- Oh, Simon!- What? - I've just sewn my fly shut.

0:48:28 > 0:48:30HE LAUGHS

0:48:30 > 0:48:32I shouldn't worry about it. You don't really need it.

0:48:32 > 0:48:35If it's drawstring, you just drop 'em, don't you?

0:48:38 > 0:48:43Sewers, you've got 30 minutes left. 30 mins.

0:48:43 > 0:48:47Right, Mark, if you'd like to take your kit off.

0:48:48 > 0:48:50I love saying that.

0:48:52 > 0:48:53What have they got left to do?

0:48:53 > 0:48:56Well, a lot of them are doing their buttonholes.

0:48:56 > 0:48:59They have to line up, so buttonholes on this side

0:48:59 > 0:49:01need to be evenly spaced.

0:49:01 > 0:49:04There's a lot of tension in that room.

0:49:04 > 0:49:05They're rushing to get finished.

0:49:05 > 0:49:08And one thing you cannot do with a buttonhole,

0:49:08 > 0:49:09you have got to take your time.

0:49:09 > 0:49:12It's like the icing on the cake, it's the finishing touch.

0:49:18 > 0:49:19Oh, hang on a minute.

0:49:19 > 0:49:22I thought I'd got the bottom level when I put my buttons on,

0:49:22 > 0:49:24and they could all do with going up a little bit.

0:49:24 > 0:49:26They're looking nice.

0:49:27 > 0:49:29Oh, you're the man.

0:49:29 > 0:49:32Whoo! Patrick had my 'jamas on!

0:49:35 > 0:49:40You've got ten minutes left, I'm afraid. Only ten minutes.

0:49:40 > 0:49:41Blimey.

0:49:47 > 0:49:51Oh, no, sorry, no. Not quite finished with it yet.

0:49:55 > 0:49:57- You have got five minutes. - That's not long enough.

0:50:00 > 0:50:03- They're kind of big for you, aren't they?- Slightly massive for me.

0:50:06 > 0:50:08I don't have time to sort anything out now.

0:50:08 > 0:50:11You have only one minute left, sewers, one minute.

0:50:12 > 0:50:13It's not going to happen, is it?

0:50:15 > 0:50:19- Very comfortable.- Just say to me, "Do you want some papers, darling?"

0:50:19 > 0:50:23- Do you want some papers, darling? - See?

0:50:25 > 0:50:27Thank you. Very nice.

0:50:27 > 0:50:30OK, that's it. The challenge is over.

0:50:30 > 0:50:34Step away from your models. Don't even look at them any more.

0:50:34 > 0:50:38# My baby kissed me good night

0:50:39 > 0:50:42# And I'm glad to relate

0:50:43 > 0:50:46# That by the time I got home

0:50:48 > 0:50:51# I was feeling great.... #

0:50:51 > 0:50:54Nine pairs of men's pyjamas, constructed in just six hours,

0:50:54 > 0:50:58but what will Patrick and May make of them?

0:50:58 > 0:50:59First up, it's Jenni.

0:51:01 > 0:51:02# And all because you kissed me

0:51:05 > 0:51:06# Good night. #

0:51:06 > 0:51:08Definitely that top looks too long,

0:51:08 > 0:51:12and those trousers definitely look a bit long.

0:51:12 > 0:51:16The piping is beautifully on the edge, and it's very, very fine.

0:51:16 > 0:51:17You've executed it very well.

0:51:17 > 0:51:21Barring the obvious, that it looks a little bit too large,

0:51:21 > 0:51:23I'd say it's a very good pair of pyjamas.

0:51:29 > 0:51:32Looking at the pattern, it's a very good match.

0:51:32 > 0:51:37- All the way into the sleeve.- May we look at your trousers, please?- Sure.

0:51:37 > 0:51:41Right. A little on the snug side, would you say, David?

0:51:41 > 0:51:43At model's request.

0:51:49 > 0:51:55The placement of these stripes versus the edge of your revers here

0:51:55 > 0:51:59is absolutely spot on, and if we turn him round,

0:51:59 > 0:52:04the stripes through the collar run absolutely perfectly.

0:52:04 > 0:52:06But the front edges do not match.

0:52:06 > 0:52:10No, because I was in such a hurry to get the buttons on. That's why.

0:52:15 > 0:52:17For me, this piping is a bit big.

0:52:17 > 0:52:22I'd like to see it probably half of that size. But it is very even.

0:52:22 > 0:52:25Originally when I looked at it, it was absolutely spot on going across.

0:52:25 > 0:52:28It's just slightly slipped, hasn't it?

0:52:28 > 0:52:33- Can we see the top of your trousers, please?- There was a fly, but...

0:52:33 > 0:52:37- It's a fly that's no longer flying. - I accidentally sewed it up.

0:52:44 > 0:52:47It looks very crisp, and it's very nicely even.

0:52:47 > 0:52:49The collar's sitting very nicely.

0:52:49 > 0:52:51The pattern is running slightly off the edge here.

0:52:51 > 0:52:55The white stripe starts there and ends up here.

0:52:55 > 0:52:57Looking at the trousers, I think

0:52:57 > 0:53:00we definitely could have done with a button on that fly.

0:53:00 > 0:53:04There's a danger of a certain amount of indecency there.

0:53:04 > 0:53:07Just an overall impression, I think it's a nice...

0:53:07 > 0:53:10I'd probably wear that. I'd wear it out, never mind at home.

0:53:15 > 0:53:18The pocket is beautifully top-stitched.

0:53:18 > 0:53:23You've got the centre of a stripe right in the centre of this V.

0:53:23 > 0:53:26That is crucially important, I think, on any pattern.

0:53:26 > 0:53:28Everything you've done, you've done very neatly.

0:53:28 > 0:53:30You just haven't done as much.

0:53:35 > 0:53:40The first big thing that leaps out at me is here.

0:53:40 > 0:53:43These two lapels are not at all even.

0:53:43 > 0:53:46I think we've got pretty good matching across the front.

0:53:46 > 0:53:48The pocket isn't lined up.

0:53:55 > 0:53:58Well, I have to say that the piping is very good.

0:54:00 > 0:54:04The stripe here running very evenly down the front edge,

0:54:04 > 0:54:09and also, you've chosen to cut the collar running the other direction,

0:54:09 > 0:54:14but you've got that running perfectly evenly round the edge.

0:54:14 > 0:54:18- That was a bit of luck, then! - Let's not call it luck.

0:54:18 > 0:54:21- Let's call it skill. - I planned it like that.

0:54:21 > 0:54:25I think it's a really excellent, really excellent pair of pyjamas.

0:54:29 > 0:54:33The pattern is running round the body,

0:54:33 > 0:54:36and also, you've centred the pattern in the back.

0:54:37 > 0:54:40Those collars, it's quite a big collar.

0:54:40 > 0:54:43But it's very even, and it sits nicely,

0:54:43 > 0:54:46and the pattern-matching is excellent across the top.

0:54:47 > 0:54:50Sewers, thank you so much.

0:54:50 > 0:54:52It's now time for you to go and have tea and cake.

0:54:52 > 0:54:55The judges will choose their favourite garment of the week,

0:54:55 > 0:54:59and sadly, they'll announce who's going home.

0:55:04 > 0:55:07I'm very proud of my pattern-matching.

0:55:07 > 0:55:10It paid off.

0:55:10 > 0:55:12My confidence has dwindled massively.

0:55:12 > 0:55:14I might be packing my little bag tonight

0:55:14 > 0:55:16and saying goodbye to everybody and going home.

0:55:16 > 0:55:18I think I did quite a nice job.

0:55:18 > 0:55:23- But I don't know if it's enough to redeem myself.- Not confident at all.

0:55:23 > 0:55:27I did find it quite difficult. So just fingers crossed.

0:55:30 > 0:55:35- How hard has it been to choose who's going?- Tough.

0:55:35 > 0:55:37I think we started off yesterday.

0:55:37 > 0:55:40Simon had two pretty weak challenges.

0:55:40 > 0:55:42He was bottom in the first,

0:55:42 > 0:55:44and he was second from bottom in the second.

0:55:44 > 0:55:47But his pyjamas weren't terrible.

0:55:47 > 0:55:50- David had some issues. - Julie didn't do too well.

0:55:50 > 0:55:53Her first challenge, the skirt, she didn't make it fit.

0:55:53 > 0:55:56But you liked her pyjamas, though? You said you'd wear them.

0:55:56 > 0:56:00I think the pyjamas were really pretty good.

0:56:05 > 0:56:08Let's do the good bit first.

0:56:08 > 0:56:11And announce the best garment.

0:56:11 > 0:56:16May and I's favourite garment of this week is...

0:56:16 > 0:56:17this one.

0:56:24 > 0:56:28- Thank you so much.- Well, it was a near-flawless piece of sewing.

0:56:28 > 0:56:30- We were really very impressed. - Thank you. Thanks.

0:56:33 > 0:56:37Now the horrible bit. Somebody unfortunately has to leave.

0:56:37 > 0:56:39That person is...

0:56:46 > 0:56:48Simon.

0:56:48 > 0:56:51- So sorry.- Can we just come and rub ourselves against you anyway?

0:56:51 > 0:56:54- Can we come and give you a hug? - Thank you.

0:56:55 > 0:56:57You've been great,

0:56:57 > 0:56:59and you have been such a fun part of what we've been doing.

0:56:59 > 0:57:01Thank you very much.

0:57:01 > 0:57:05Simon's such an enthusiastic sewer, but I think his inexperience told.

0:57:05 > 0:57:09He doesn't have the techniques that everybody else has.

0:57:09 > 0:57:12His pattern-matching wasn't as good as it could have been.

0:57:12 > 0:57:14We were a bit disappointed.

0:57:14 > 0:57:16My performance left a bit to be desired,

0:57:16 > 0:57:20but I've certainly kept up with the big kids.

0:57:20 > 0:57:23Simon's my little mate, my little six-foot-four mate.

0:57:23 > 0:57:26And I am really, really sad to see him go.

0:57:26 > 0:57:29It's definitely made me aware that I can do it,

0:57:29 > 0:57:31and I'm quite good at it, actually.

0:57:31 > 0:57:32Definitely.

0:57:35 > 0:57:37I'm absolutely gobsmacked.

0:57:37 > 0:57:41I can't believe my pyjamas were chosen as garment of the week.

0:57:41 > 0:57:45- You've left me alone with all these women.- Last man standing!

0:57:45 > 0:57:48It's going to be me and seven women.

0:57:48 > 0:57:52Most men's dreams, but in this situation, it's a bit intimidating.

0:57:55 > 0:57:57At the next Sewing Bee:

0:57:57 > 0:58:01The sewers take on a completely different kind of fabric...

0:58:01 > 0:58:05- It's a bit S&M, isn't it?- It does have a hint of that about it.

0:58:05 > 0:58:08- ..when they're asked to produce clingy leggings.- You know what?

0:58:08 > 0:58:09It's not bad.

0:58:09 > 0:58:11They take a simple T-shirt

0:58:11 > 0:58:14and fashion it into something completely different.

0:58:14 > 0:58:15Don't want a baggy bottom.

0:58:15 > 0:58:20And finally, take on the most fitted made-to-measure garment yet.

0:58:20 > 0:58:22This is going to be a total disaster.

0:58:25 > 0:58:26I want to drown in a bucket of gin.

0:58:28 > 0:58:32'Applications for the next series of Sewing Bee will be closing soon,

0:58:32 > 0:58:34'so if you or someone you know would like to apply,

0:58:34 > 0:58:37'please go to bbc.co.uk/sewingbee.'

0:58:37 > 0:58:40'You'll also find ideas therefore sewing projects

0:58:40 > 0:58:42'inspired by the series.'