0:00:02 > 0:00:04In this week's Great British Sewing Bee, there will be cutting,
0:00:04 > 0:00:07there will be stitching, there might even be gluing -
0:00:07 > 0:00:08which strictly isn't sewing, but there's
0:00:08 > 0:00:10a place in the quarterfinal up for grabs,
0:00:10 > 0:00:14so they can pretty much do whatever they like.
0:00:14 > 0:00:16- Last time...- Come here, Fred.
0:00:16 > 0:00:18..the sewers made children's clothes...
0:00:18 > 0:00:20I don't like kids' clothes.
0:00:20 > 0:00:23..David's dungarees won him his first-ever challenge...
0:00:23 > 0:00:27That's a good, solid sew, which is exactly what we were looking for.
0:00:27 > 0:00:30For the second time, the judges awarded Lynda...
0:00:30 > 0:00:33- Cocktail - you and me?- Why not? - Why wouldn't we?
0:00:33 > 0:00:35..with garment of the week...
0:00:35 > 0:00:37..and sent Cerina home.
0:00:37 > 0:00:39So upset!
0:00:39 > 0:00:43- This week, the six remaining sewers...- Phew!
0:00:43 > 0:00:45..face the most difficult fabrics yet.
0:00:45 > 0:00:47That's going to be a brute.
0:00:48 > 0:00:50They must tackle nylon...
0:00:50 > 0:00:53Easing this is not very easy.
0:00:53 > 0:00:56- ..handle leather for the very first time...- Ow!
0:00:56 > 0:00:57..and in a new twist...
0:00:57 > 0:00:59I'm not going to go right underneath!
0:00:59 > 0:01:02- ..make velvet trousers... - (WOLF WHISTLE)
0:01:02 > 0:01:03..for themselves.
0:01:03 > 0:01:05Control yourself, Heather.
0:01:31 > 0:01:33I slept awful last night.
0:01:33 > 0:01:36I dunno, maybe the nerves are getting the better of me nowadays
0:01:36 > 0:01:38cos we're getting so far in
0:01:38 > 0:01:43and a chance of the final's not such a distant hope.
0:01:43 > 0:01:46It's difficult to try and put yourself somewhere in the group
0:01:46 > 0:01:50because everybody has strengths and weaknesses and every week
0:01:50 > 0:01:51there's a surprise,
0:01:51 > 0:01:54so you just don't really know quite where you are with it.
0:01:54 > 0:01:57We're over halfway through the Sewing Bee.
0:01:57 > 0:02:00Now we need to find out whether they can handle the really tricky stuff.
0:02:00 > 0:02:01They need to impress us
0:02:01 > 0:02:04with their skills using more challenging types of fabric.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07Everyone is still in with a chance of winning.
0:02:07 > 0:02:08Hopefully it'll be me!
0:02:13 > 0:02:16Good morning, everybody. Are you ready for some more challenges?
0:02:16 > 0:02:20- Oh, yes.- You say yes - you might say no in a minute.
0:02:20 > 0:02:26This week the judges want to see how you cope with very tricky fabrics.
0:02:26 > 0:02:28Challenge one is nylon.
0:02:28 > 0:02:29Oh, no!
0:02:29 > 0:02:33- No? Have any of you worked with nylon before?- No!
0:02:33 > 0:02:35Patrick, what have they got to do?
0:02:35 > 0:02:41This week's pattern is for an anorak with rib on the cuff and waistband.
0:02:41 > 0:02:46We want the anorak to be shower-proof - with no pin holes in the wrong places.
0:02:46 > 0:02:48You have three hours.
0:02:48 > 0:02:50This one's tricky.
0:02:50 > 0:02:52Your time starts...now.
0:02:53 > 0:02:55That's a bit hard - an anorak?
0:02:55 > 0:02:57I hate anoraks - I hope I don't hate them
0:02:57 > 0:02:59at the end of the challenge, actually.
0:02:59 > 0:03:02Maybe I should love them. Then I'll do it well!
0:03:02 > 0:03:05I love anoraks - absolutely love 'em.
0:03:05 > 0:03:08Most of the sewers haven't sewn with nylon before,
0:03:08 > 0:03:11so figuring out how to handle it will be the first challenge.
0:03:11 > 0:03:13- I can't iron this, can I?- I don't think you can iron any of them.
0:03:13 > 0:03:15It's nylon. It'll just melt.
0:03:15 > 0:03:17This is entirely new to me.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20It'll be fascinating to see how it turns out.
0:03:22 > 0:03:26That's serious nervous laughter, like "Ugh!"
0:03:26 > 0:03:29I never wear nylon. It's a bit sweaty.
0:03:29 > 0:03:33It's not something I would want to associate with, myself.
0:03:35 > 0:03:38Is nylon one of the trickiest materials to use?
0:03:38 > 0:03:42It slips and slides, It moves about.
0:03:42 > 0:03:44They have to think about how they handle it.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47We want it to be waterproof so they've got to be careful
0:03:47 > 0:03:49how they pin it, otherwise they'll end up with holes.
0:03:52 > 0:03:55I'm pinning in my seam allowance so they don't poke holes
0:03:55 > 0:03:58into the main fabric, cos it's supposed to be waterproof.
0:03:58 > 0:04:03I know that - from reading the pattern - the seams are going to be covered.
0:04:03 > 0:04:06Each sewer has their own method of avoiding pinpricks in their jackets.
0:04:06 > 0:04:09I put my jar on top to hold the pattern down.
0:04:09 > 0:04:13May said, "I don't want any holes in it that shouldn't be in it."
0:04:13 > 0:04:16I think she might have been referring to pins.
0:04:16 > 0:04:18Look at you!
0:04:18 > 0:04:20You clever rabbit.
0:04:20 > 0:04:21You're taping the pattern.
0:04:21 > 0:04:25I used to cut out fabric and I used to use sellotape the whole way round.
0:04:25 > 0:04:27- Did you?- To stabilise the fabric.
0:04:27 > 0:04:31They used to make the Army waterproofs out of this when I was in the TA.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34- That's why you've gone full combat. - Yeah!
0:04:35 > 0:04:36So that's the front.
0:04:38 > 0:04:42The bomber-jacket style anorak is fastened with an open-ended zip.
0:04:42 > 0:04:47The pattern is made up of two front and one back section,
0:04:47 > 0:04:49a collar, two sleeves,
0:04:49 > 0:04:53ribbing and waterproof tape.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56Once they've cut out their pieces, the next challenge is
0:04:56 > 0:04:58working out how they all slot together.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02"Pin sleeve to front of sleeve."
0:05:02 > 0:05:04Oh!
0:05:04 > 0:05:07The front and back sections of the anorak are joined together
0:05:07 > 0:05:11diagonally across the shoulder, creating raglan sleeves.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14If you're not used to putting something like this in -
0:05:14 > 0:05:15is it incredibly hard?
0:05:15 > 0:05:18Most sleeves would be a set-in sleeve.
0:05:18 > 0:05:22A shoulder is constructed and then a sleeve is set in.
0:05:22 > 0:05:24This - there's no shoulder insertion,
0:05:24 > 0:05:26so it's actually a very straightforward sew.
0:05:26 > 0:05:31Story goes that Lord Raglan, Wellington's aide-de-camp,
0:05:31 > 0:05:36was injured in the battle of Waterloo, had his arm chopped off, and his tailor developed this sleeve
0:05:36 > 0:05:39to make it easier for him to pull his jacket on and off with one arm.
0:05:41 > 0:05:43Feels nice.
0:05:43 > 0:05:47Well, I'm just trying to work out exactly what's going on here.
0:05:47 > 0:05:52So "Sleeve seam wrong sides together, stitch into place."
0:05:52 > 0:05:55The pattern demands that the raglan sleeve seams are exposed on the
0:05:55 > 0:06:00outside of the garment - something none of the sewers are used to.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03We're to sew wrong sides together, which is opposite to normal.
0:06:03 > 0:06:06You normally stitch right sides together.
0:06:06 > 0:06:08So when I sew these you won't have the
0:06:08 > 0:06:11seam on the inside. The seam will be on the outside
0:06:11 > 0:06:14which is why you use the tape to cover up the seams.
0:06:14 > 0:06:15Pull sides together.
0:06:16 > 0:06:20Once confident the sleeves' seams are in the right position,
0:06:20 > 0:06:21sewing can begin.
0:06:21 > 0:06:25So we're just sort of going for it, really.
0:06:25 > 0:06:28As if the pattern itself wasn't tricky enough,
0:06:28 > 0:06:31this week the sewers are using an unfamiliar machine
0:06:31 > 0:06:34with a walking foot, designed to grip slippery fabric.
0:06:34 > 0:06:36How do you get it going?
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- What?- How do you make it stitch?
0:06:39 > 0:06:42Um, you need to put your foot down.
0:06:42 > 0:06:45No, as in...your needle, down.
0:06:45 > 0:06:48- Right.- You should be able to go now.
0:06:48 > 0:06:49Ooh!
0:06:51 > 0:06:54I'm a little virgin as it comes to a little walking foot.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57It's very difficult, cos normally you'd only have one
0:06:57 > 0:06:59set of teeth guiding your fabric, whereas with this,
0:06:59 > 0:07:01you've got two.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03Just working with a new machine, it's a little bit slower
0:07:03 > 0:07:07but hopefully we can trot on a bit.
0:07:07 > 0:07:11Having raced ahead of the others, Lynda is now unpicking.
0:07:12 > 0:07:16I've sewn the right sides together instead of the wrong sides together.
0:07:16 > 0:07:18This is typical me, this is!
0:07:18 > 0:07:20Not thinking, just steaming ahead.
0:07:24 > 0:07:26Sewers, you have two hours left.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29"Place the tape onto the seam with the shiny side down,
0:07:29 > 0:07:33"overlapping both sides of the seam equally."
0:07:33 > 0:07:36To ensure the anorak is waterproof, the shoulder seams are sealed
0:07:36 > 0:07:38with waterproof tape.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40"Place the strip of tissue paper over the tape
0:07:40 > 0:07:46"and using the point of the iron, run it along the seam tape slowly to start the bonding process."
0:07:46 > 0:07:49The temperature of the iron needs to be just right.
0:07:49 > 0:07:53I'm worried about melting it, this fabric, because it's nylon.
0:07:53 > 0:07:56Too cool - and the tape won't stick.
0:07:56 > 0:08:01That's the first thing they're going to do, start picking at these heat-sealed seams.
0:08:01 > 0:08:02The point of this tape is it's not just
0:08:02 > 0:08:04there for the next 30 minutes.
0:08:04 > 0:08:09It needs to be on there for the whole life of this jacket, so it needs to be really well applied.
0:08:09 > 0:08:12This is scary, a bit. Is anyone else doing it yet?
0:08:18 > 0:08:19I'm just doing a little mock-up.
0:08:19 > 0:08:21The iron's at what temperature?
0:08:21 > 0:08:24- I don't know. It doesn't say. - OK.
0:08:24 > 0:08:27- Are you allowed to say?- No.
0:08:27 > 0:08:29That seems to be melting a little bit,
0:08:29 > 0:08:31so I might put it on a little bit warmer.
0:08:31 > 0:08:33I also would maybe think about
0:08:33 > 0:08:35whether you want the steam on or not.
0:08:39 > 0:08:42I've gone off the centre a little bit.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45The judges will spot that at 20 paces.
0:08:45 > 0:08:49I need to make sure that they're really well stuck, cos I know they're going to be picking at it.
0:08:49 > 0:08:53Some of your sealing is just coming away there.
0:08:53 > 0:08:55A little reseal of that.
0:08:55 > 0:08:59I found I had to hold the iron on it for a while.
0:08:59 > 0:09:02Like, look at that. I'm going to have to do that again.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04I haven't done a very good job of that.
0:09:04 > 0:09:07I'm not at all happy with it. But that's MY problem.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12Waterproof fabric may be tricky to sew with,
0:09:12 > 0:09:14but imagine a time when it didn't exist.
0:09:14 > 0:09:16It wasn't until the 19th century
0:09:16 > 0:09:19when a Scottish chemist named Mackintosh made an important
0:09:19 > 0:09:22discovery that wet-weather gear went into production.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26And not surprisingly, a lucrative business was born.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31In Georgian Britain, when it rained, most men donned a thick,
0:09:31 > 0:09:35lined woollen greatcoat, but this wardrobe staple would soon be
0:09:35 > 0:09:37replaced by something rather better at the job.
0:09:37 > 0:09:42In 1823, Charles Mackintosh patented a waterproofing process
0:09:42 > 0:09:46that he'd discovered when he mixed Indian rubber and the
0:09:46 > 0:09:52waste materials that came from - of all things - street gas lighting.
0:09:53 > 0:09:56What he was trying to do was create something for his father,
0:09:56 > 0:09:57who owned a dye works
0:09:57 > 0:10:00so he was using the waste products from the local gas factory.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02He wanted some ammonia, to create a dye.
0:10:02 > 0:10:06Instead, he found out that with another waste product, which is
0:10:06 > 0:10:08naphtha, he could melt India rubber.
0:10:08 > 0:10:11And then he thought, "If I can melt it, I can spread it."
0:10:11 > 0:10:14So what he did was then he started trying to perfect it.
0:10:14 > 0:10:15There's the cotton on top
0:10:15 > 0:10:19and then in between that, he put a layer of rubber, then cotton again.
0:10:19 > 0:10:20So it's like this sandwich
0:10:20 > 0:10:22and you squash it all together with a mangle.
0:10:22 > 0:10:25'The rubberised fabric went into production
0:10:25 > 0:10:28'and was soon in demand from the armed forces,
0:10:28 > 0:10:32'the new police force and even Arctic explorers.'
0:10:32 > 0:10:34What did this discovery do for the ordinary men
0:10:34 > 0:10:36and women of Georgian Britain?
0:10:36 > 0:10:38It didn't really work that well.
0:10:38 > 0:10:40Mackintosh found this amazing invention
0:10:40 > 0:10:43but for those of us who tried to wear it, it was a bit of a disaster.
0:10:43 > 0:10:45You'd go out in the Mackintosh coat, it would smell
0:10:45 > 0:10:48and also it's really inconvenient because if it got cold,
0:10:48 > 0:10:52it got really stiff, and if it got hot, it got really, really sticky.
0:10:54 > 0:10:56Mackintosh had to improve his product -
0:10:56 > 0:11:00so he went into business with another inventor, Thomas Hancock,
0:11:00 > 0:11:04and together they set out to perfect waterproof clothing.
0:11:04 > 0:11:07Hancock's family owned a coach company.
0:11:07 > 0:11:09Seeing a gap in the market for clothing that would protect
0:11:09 > 0:11:12coach drivers and passengers from the rain,
0:11:12 > 0:11:15he'd also started experimenting with Indian rubber.
0:11:16 > 0:11:20Hancock helped in developing a robust solution that was actually
0:11:20 > 0:11:23better than the one that Mackintosh had previously developed.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26It was more spreadable, had a higher rubber content,
0:11:26 > 0:11:28which made the fabric more waterproof
0:11:28 > 0:11:30and more impervious to the great British weather,
0:11:30 > 0:11:34so it was a totally waterproof fabric but more flexible, odourless
0:11:34 > 0:11:40and it was more amenable to the heat and to the cold and wintertime to.
0:11:40 > 0:11:45In 1824, Hancock and Mackintosh began producing coats with this new
0:11:45 > 0:11:47improved waterproof fabric.
0:11:47 > 0:11:51They had a brand-new business and Hancock fulfilled his ambition.
0:11:51 > 0:11:53What he set out to do in the first place was
0:11:53 > 0:11:56the protection of the coach drivers.
0:11:56 > 0:11:59Working with Charles Mackintosh made that a possibility,
0:11:59 > 0:12:03and both combined, made something really fantastic.
0:12:03 > 0:12:07Waterproof raincoats are still being produced in factories in
0:12:07 > 0:12:12Scotland today, using the techniques pioneered by Mackintosh and Hancock.
0:12:12 > 0:12:15This iconic piece of clothing has stood the test of time,
0:12:15 > 0:12:20paving the way for waterproof garments just like the anoraks
0:12:20 > 0:12:22made in our Sewing Bee.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29The sewers are halfway through. 90 minutes to go.
0:12:31 > 0:12:36So I'm now at this stage, so I need to stitch my armholes.
0:12:38 > 0:12:41Once I've done my sleeve seam,
0:12:41 > 0:12:46I will have the remnants of a coat by the end of this stitch but
0:12:46 > 0:12:50I need to move on to the ribbing, which I'm not looking forward to.
0:12:53 > 0:12:58- Attaching the ribbed waistband and cuffs evenly...- Nice and stretchy.
0:12:58 > 0:13:02..into the stiff nylon requires preparation and precision.
0:13:02 > 0:13:07God, that's really stretchy. That's going to be a brute.
0:13:07 > 0:13:10So this is a bit tricky because you've got stretchy ribbing
0:13:10 > 0:13:13which is very, very movey, and then this is very, very structured.
0:13:13 > 0:13:15I've marked my centre
0:13:15 > 0:13:16back with the back piece
0:13:16 > 0:13:18and I'm matching them up, so I'm pinning them together.
0:13:20 > 0:13:24I'm then going to stretch this
0:13:24 > 0:13:27to the width of the fabric underneath.
0:13:29 > 0:13:32Once again we've arrived at a tricky and crucial moment.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34What are you doing?
0:13:34 > 0:13:37- I'm...- He's putting his cuff in. - OK.- What he said!
0:13:37 > 0:13:40- Is it difficult?- It's a pain in the bum.- It's fiddly.- Why?
0:13:40 > 0:13:43That starts off that size, the cuff that it's going into is that size,
0:13:43 > 0:13:45you've got to get that into that.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48- This doesn't look right. Is this right?- This is right.
0:13:48 > 0:13:49Oh, well done!
0:13:49 > 0:13:53'If the ribbing isn't stretched evenly onto the nylon,
0:13:53 > 0:13:55'the seams will pucker.'
0:13:55 > 0:13:58This is going to be a little bit tricky.
0:14:00 > 0:14:02Oh, gosh, this is kind of off...
0:14:02 > 0:14:04Oh, gosh.
0:14:04 > 0:14:07I really, really want to do this...get this right.
0:14:07 > 0:14:11Sewers, you have one hour left. One hour.
0:14:11 > 0:14:13I think I need to get my skates on.
0:14:15 > 0:14:17Pin collars...
0:14:19 > 0:14:21Heather has moved on to the jacket collar.
0:14:21 > 0:14:25Because it's on a curve, it's a little bit tricky
0:14:25 > 0:14:27to ease this fabric in.
0:14:27 > 0:14:31If the collar slips against neck-hole as they sew...
0:14:31 > 0:14:33Easing this is not very easy!
0:14:33 > 0:14:35..it could pucker around the seam.
0:14:37 > 0:14:38SHE SIGHS
0:14:39 > 0:14:41My collar doesn't fit.
0:14:41 > 0:14:43I've tried all ways to get it to fit,
0:14:43 > 0:14:45so I'm going to cut a bigger one.
0:14:47 > 0:14:49I've got one little catch there.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53That's been caused, because the fabric doesn't stretch that much,
0:14:53 > 0:14:58it's a little bit difficult to get the curve equal all the way through.
0:14:58 > 0:15:00If that's the only thing that's wrong, I shall be lucky.
0:15:02 > 0:15:05- How have you found putting this collar on?- Awful.
0:15:05 > 0:15:08I'm undoing it again. It looked a bit shabby.
0:15:08 > 0:15:10- You don't have much time left. - I know.
0:15:10 > 0:15:14- I'm going to do it, though.- All right, I'll leave you to do it.
0:15:14 > 0:15:17I hope nobody's going to try this out in the rain!
0:15:17 > 0:15:20Everyone, you have half an hour left.
0:15:20 > 0:15:22Are you serious?
0:15:22 > 0:15:25They're all being a bit slow this morning.
0:15:25 > 0:15:27They ought to be putting their zips in now.
0:15:27 > 0:15:31And they should be getting on to that all-important topstitching.
0:15:34 > 0:15:37I'm just trying to topstitch my zip at the moment.
0:15:37 > 0:15:41The final component of the anorak is the waterproof zip,
0:15:41 > 0:15:45which should be neatly topstitched along the front opening...
0:15:45 > 0:15:49So I'm going all the way up the zip, all the way around the top of the collar, to come back down.
0:15:49 > 0:15:53..to give the anoraks a sharp finish.
0:15:53 > 0:15:56I've just got to topstitch my collar now.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59MACHINE JAMS Uh, are you serious?
0:16:03 > 0:16:06Sewers, you have five minutes left.
0:16:06 > 0:16:09Five minutes to put your anoraks on your mannequins.
0:16:10 > 0:16:13Ahh, come on. I think I've knackered it.
0:16:13 > 0:16:18I can't find my foot. I was doing so well!
0:16:18 > 0:16:22When you keep messing up, you've got to work at the speed of light.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27A-ha-ha! I found it on the floor.
0:16:31 > 0:16:33Go!
0:16:33 > 0:16:37I've got topstitching left to do, and I don't think I'll have time to do it.
0:16:37 > 0:16:41- Sewers, you have 60 seconds left. - What?!- That is one minute.
0:16:41 > 0:16:42I've had it.
0:16:47 > 0:16:50HE SIGHS Oh, that's terrible.
0:16:50 > 0:16:52I've finished my coat!
0:16:54 > 0:16:56OK, that's time.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59Why did they put it so far away?!
0:16:59 > 0:17:04- No topstitching.- No, I haven't got any topstitching, either.
0:17:04 > 0:17:06Come on, Army boy.
0:17:06 > 0:17:10This is my dream come true, David.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17Six anoraks in just three hours,
0:17:17 > 0:17:19but whose will impress Patrick and May?
0:17:19 > 0:17:23Jenni, please bring Mr Yellow Arms.
0:17:29 > 0:17:32Topstitching, it's not absolutely straight.
0:17:32 > 0:17:35It's not perfect, but it's doing its job.
0:17:35 > 0:17:39- Good cuffs, no pleats or puckers. - Phew!
0:17:39 > 0:17:45Difficult to bond two completely different fabrics with one tape,
0:17:45 > 0:17:49because obviously you can't apply more heat to one side than the other.
0:17:49 > 0:17:53- The fact that you've got that very well bonded is great credit to you. - Thank you.
0:17:57 > 0:17:58Your topstitching is all on.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01Needs to be a little bit closer to the edge.
0:18:01 > 0:18:06To your credit, it's very even. It's just a little bit too far away.
0:18:06 > 0:18:08And, in the main, your tape is secure.
0:18:08 > 0:18:10I can see a tiny couple of places
0:18:10 > 0:18:13where it's just trying to come off the edge, but, on the whole, it's on.
0:18:17 > 0:18:18No topstitching.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21I mean, it's plainly clear to everyone now, I hope,
0:18:21 > 0:18:23why we've asked you to topstitch.
0:18:23 > 0:18:26You can't press it into shape, you have to stitch it into shape.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29We've got some puckering where you've joined the collar to the jacket,
0:18:29 > 0:18:33- which is a shame.- But... Oh, no, spoke too soon.
0:18:33 > 0:18:36Tape just coming away in a couple of...
0:18:36 > 0:18:38Well, it's certainly coming away there.
0:18:43 > 0:18:46Unfortunately, it's clear to everyone you've run out of time
0:18:46 > 0:18:48and we haven't got a finished garment.
0:18:48 > 0:18:50The collar's not attached,
0:18:50 > 0:18:53and we can see right here where the clock stopped!
0:18:53 > 0:18:57- And from the back...- I know. - ..it's squint.- I know.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00Sorry.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07The first thing to notice is you haven't got to the topstitching,
0:19:07 > 0:19:09and it's meant that the collar looks bumpy,
0:19:09 > 0:19:13- and this front edge along the zip, bumpy.- I know, I ran out of time.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17It just leaves it all looking a little bit puffy and bulgy.
0:19:17 > 0:19:22But, looking at your sleeve, we have no pleats or puckers.
0:19:28 > 0:19:31It looks really good, and all this topstitching,
0:19:31 > 0:19:36we can see the difference in how secure all of the edges are.
0:19:36 > 0:19:38Really even, and well executed.
0:19:38 > 0:19:41The seam tape... really well secured.
0:19:41 > 0:19:44This is a jacket I would be very happy to wear myself.
0:19:44 > 0:19:46I think this is really very good.
0:19:46 > 0:19:47SHE GASPS
0:19:47 > 0:19:49THEY LAUGH
0:19:49 > 0:19:51Pick yourself up off the floor!
0:19:54 > 0:19:57'So what do Patrick and May really think?'
0:19:58 > 0:20:03Number six is Lynda today. Not one of your most comfortable sews.
0:20:03 > 0:20:08In fifth place, Heather. Didn't get round to the topstitching,
0:20:08 > 0:20:11and slightly uneven in a couple of places.
0:20:11 > 0:20:15'Chinelo is fourth, and David is third.'
0:20:15 > 0:20:19Second is Jenni. Really marginal whether it was second or first.
0:20:19 > 0:20:22Which means, in first place, Tamara!
0:20:22 > 0:20:24APPLAUSE
0:20:24 > 0:20:26Finally!
0:20:26 > 0:20:29That is a really professional-looking
0:20:29 > 0:20:31piece of sewing. Hard to find any fault in it
0:20:31 > 0:20:33All of you go and have a cup of tea,
0:20:33 > 0:20:36and, when you come back, we'll give you the next challenge
0:20:36 > 0:20:38which is really quite terrifying.
0:20:43 > 0:20:48My mum told me, "Keep your cool, stay calm, read the pattern,"
0:20:48 > 0:20:50and that's exactly what I did.
0:20:50 > 0:20:52Pipped to the post! I was so gutted.
0:20:52 > 0:20:57'But, that said, dead proud of myself. Second position, that's awesome.'
0:20:57 > 0:20:59I don't like coming last at all, obviously,
0:20:59 > 0:21:03and it's making me worry about the next challenge.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07Nylon jackets, incredibly challenging.
0:21:07 > 0:21:10Now, our judges want our sewers to transform,
0:21:10 > 0:21:14to alter a high-street garment, using totally different fabric,
0:21:14 > 0:21:18but one that's just as difficult to handle.
0:21:18 > 0:21:23Patrick, what would you like them to have a fiddle with?
0:21:23 > 0:21:28This week...we'd like to give you this high-street top,
0:21:28 > 0:21:33and we'd like you to alter it with yet another challenging fabric.
0:21:36 > 0:21:37Leather.
0:21:37 > 0:21:40Do whatever you like with the leather.
0:21:40 > 0:21:42You can use haberdashery.
0:21:42 > 0:21:46Change that top into something really exciting.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50You have an hour and a half. Your time starts now.
0:21:50 > 0:21:52You two, off you go. Go, go. Bye-bye.
0:21:54 > 0:21:58- Got to be purple.- That's nice, I like that combination.- OK.
0:21:58 > 0:22:01Smells good.
0:22:01 > 0:22:03I've gone for this black suede leather.
0:22:03 > 0:22:05The whole monochrome thing is in, isn't it?
0:22:05 > 0:22:10I love a bit of leather! Yes, I can see me getting into leather.
0:22:10 > 0:22:13I've never worked with leather but, I tell you what, it's lovely.
0:22:13 > 0:22:15It cuts really easily.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19It's a skin and I presume you get one chance to pierce it, and that's it.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22So, for me, I think it's about watching what I do with my needle.
0:22:22 > 0:22:25This challenge is interesting because, for the first time,
0:22:25 > 0:22:28we're giving them a material that is not a traditional textile.
0:22:28 > 0:22:31It's different in the way that it's handled,
0:22:31 > 0:22:34it cuts in a different way, you have to sew it in a different way.
0:22:34 > 0:22:37A lot of the leather is so fine that you can sculpture it,
0:22:37 > 0:22:38you can change the shape of it,
0:22:38 > 0:22:41but we don't want something just thrown at it.
0:22:41 > 0:22:44"Oh, yes, I've applied a little shape here."
0:22:44 > 0:22:47We want something that looks good with that garment.
0:22:47 > 0:22:51The button-back top is made from a heavy double-knit jersey,
0:22:51 > 0:22:53an ideal backing for the leather,
0:22:53 > 0:22:56as it's of a similar weight and stretch.
0:22:56 > 0:23:00This challenge is right up my street, I love doing things like this.
0:23:00 > 0:23:05I am just making a little frill to go right around the front of my top.
0:23:05 > 0:23:06So far, so good!
0:23:06 > 0:23:09Tell me exactly what you're doing,
0:23:09 > 0:23:10and for why.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13I've switched so the back is now the front.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17I think I'm going to apply this around the neck.
0:23:17 > 0:23:20- What I think I'm going to do is... - Oh, my God! Are you using that?
0:23:20 > 0:23:22- Sorry to swear...- Yes. I'm going to cut shapes out of this,
0:23:22 > 0:23:25and have this underneath so this shows through.
0:23:25 > 0:23:27What are you doing now?!
0:23:27 > 0:23:31There's no warning with you, Tamara, you're just cutting into it!
0:23:32 > 0:23:35I'm actually going to do a backless leather top.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38So it will be very...demure at the front
0:23:38 > 0:23:40but the wow factor will be in the back, cos I know Patrick likes that.
0:23:40 > 0:23:45Cut off the neck to make it into a sweetheart neckline.
0:23:45 > 0:23:49I've cut out the side panel, and I've made it out of leather instead.
0:23:49 > 0:23:53I'm going to do almost a sort of bustier front.
0:23:53 > 0:23:56Well, at least this is what I've sort of got in my mind, because...
0:23:56 > 0:23:59I'm not doing a very good job of freehand with it here.
0:23:59 > 0:24:06I'm going to make a wrap front with a plunging neckline.
0:24:06 > 0:24:08Leather marks easily when pinned,
0:24:08 > 0:24:10so Patrick and May have given the sewers a sticky tape
0:24:10 > 0:24:13to position it onto the supporting fabric.
0:24:13 > 0:24:16Instead of using your pins, you chuck it on here.
0:24:16 > 0:24:18You "chuck it on"?
0:24:18 > 0:24:21Oh... Oh! I don't know what you've just done!
0:24:21 > 0:24:23- HE LAUGHS - I don't know what you've just done!
0:24:23 > 0:24:24Claudia, go away!
0:24:24 > 0:24:29- OK, focus on this bit for a minute. - Let's do it together.- Unfurl it.
0:24:29 > 0:24:31I think...
0:24:31 > 0:24:34I'm no expert, but I think maybe you cut tiny bits.
0:24:34 > 0:24:36I'll leave you. Good luck with the tape.
0:24:36 > 0:24:40- Maybe just put it on the machine. It's an idea.- Yeah!
0:24:40 > 0:24:42'One hour remaining.'
0:24:42 > 0:24:46I was worried about leather, but now, having had a look at it,
0:24:46 > 0:24:48it shouldn't be that difficult.
0:24:48 > 0:24:52Whoa! There she blows!
0:24:52 > 0:24:54To help the sewers stitch through the leather,
0:24:54 > 0:24:57all the machines have been fitted with needles
0:24:57 > 0:25:02with a blade-like point designed to pierce through tough fabrics.
0:25:02 > 0:25:04I can't believe how lovely this is to sew.
0:25:04 > 0:25:07I would love a top out of leather.
0:25:07 > 0:25:10I might make myself one. Who knows?
0:25:10 > 0:25:14I'm appliqueing this patch of leather onto our top
0:25:14 > 0:25:20with a relatively wide zigzag, just to get a nice firm edge
0:25:20 > 0:25:24to my leather, because the leather's stretchy and the garment's stretchy.
0:25:24 > 0:25:27I think this is called reverse applique,
0:25:27 > 0:25:32but it's where you cut away fabric to show a fabric underneath.
0:25:32 > 0:25:36I haven't done this since I was probably about...12 years old,
0:25:36 > 0:25:39and I certainly haven't ever done it with leather.
0:25:39 > 0:25:43Oh! A bit of leather applique.
0:25:43 > 0:25:46I'm just going to cut out this piece now.
0:25:46 > 0:25:49That whole section? So you're keeping the sort of yoke,
0:25:49 > 0:25:52if you like, but somebody will wear it and they'll be bare?
0:25:52 > 0:25:54This is a "date night" top.
0:25:54 > 0:25:56Oh, it's a "date night" top. I like "date night" tops.
0:25:56 > 0:25:58I know! You can't get enough of it.
0:25:58 > 0:26:00Oh, I can't! I could do this all day.
0:26:02 > 0:26:07I've cut the back to make it tight and I've cut the top off it
0:26:07 > 0:26:10so I'm just sewing it on now, to the sides.
0:26:12 > 0:26:14Neither of my daughters would wear this
0:26:14 > 0:26:16but would have when I was young.
0:26:16 > 0:26:19I have names, by the way, for all my clothes,
0:26:19 > 0:26:23like my egg top because it's bright yellow and I wore it one day
0:26:23 > 0:26:25down to my daughter's and I had white trousers on.
0:26:25 > 0:26:28She opened the door and I said, "I feel like an egg."
0:26:28 > 0:26:31I hope this is going to be my success story top.
0:26:33 > 0:26:37Look at you! This is bold! Can I just show the cameras?
0:26:37 > 0:26:40That's the front. I'm a normal human being, just wearing a white top.
0:26:40 > 0:26:42Thanks very much.
0:26:42 > 0:26:44- Ow!- Ow!
0:26:44 > 0:26:46I've got a lilac leather back with...
0:26:46 > 0:26:50Shut up! Shut up!
0:26:50 > 0:26:52It's a Rouleaux loop.
0:26:53 > 0:26:55Everyone, you have 30 minutes.
0:27:00 > 0:27:01What's going on?
0:27:03 > 0:27:06It's not even holding it together. It's just a big mess.
0:27:08 > 0:27:09It's very small.
0:27:09 > 0:27:12I need to find a way to hide it and stop it from coming up.
0:27:12 > 0:27:15Actually, maybe if I did it right on the edge,
0:27:15 > 0:27:16that would hold it in place.
0:27:16 > 0:27:19What about that thing, the overlord... The overlocker?
0:27:19 > 0:27:21The overlord!
0:27:22 > 0:27:25- Honestly!- No?- No, no overlord!
0:27:25 > 0:27:27No overlord, OK.
0:27:27 > 0:27:30I wanted the focus to be on the shoulders and neckline,
0:27:30 > 0:27:33so I'm just embellishing that as I go.
0:27:33 > 0:27:35It's constantly evolving.
0:27:43 > 0:27:45That technique...
0:27:45 > 0:27:48I don't have a name
0:27:48 > 0:27:51but it did release some tension.
0:27:51 > 0:27:55You don't have the hem level, so you can hack away at it
0:27:55 > 0:27:57and make big splodgy holes.
0:27:58 > 0:28:01It probably looks awful.
0:28:01 > 0:28:03Yeah, it does look awful, but I like it.
0:28:04 > 0:28:07Everyone's doing a lot more drastic than I have, I think.
0:28:07 > 0:28:08I'm making a corsage.
0:28:08 > 0:28:10Lynda's making a corsage.
0:28:12 > 0:28:15I've seen my granddaughter's got one on her hair band or something
0:28:15 > 0:28:19and I'm trying to recreate it but I'm not sure how it goes.
0:28:21 > 0:28:24Getting the needle through the leather is really, really difficult.
0:28:24 > 0:28:26It's very, very thick.
0:28:26 > 0:28:28I don't know how I can join it all together.
0:28:31 > 0:28:35Maybe if I do one at a time. That sorts that out.
0:28:36 > 0:28:39I think I might have chipped a tooth.
0:28:40 > 0:28:44Everyone, you have ten minutes left. That is ten minutes.
0:28:45 > 0:28:49I'm just deciding what to do with the neck edge, at the moment.
0:28:49 > 0:28:52I think I might tuck it in and tack it in underneath.
0:28:52 > 0:28:55Toying at whether to make a kind of necklace which sits on,
0:28:55 > 0:28:57with leather bits falling off it.
0:28:57 > 0:29:00Little buttons at the back, just to take it in.
0:29:00 > 0:29:03I'm just going put two buttons at the bottom as well.
0:29:10 > 0:29:13They said radically change and alter your top.
0:29:13 > 0:29:15I think they'll hate it.
0:29:17 > 0:29:19Ooh! Mind that!
0:29:22 > 0:29:24Green is for leaves, to go with my flower.
0:29:27 > 0:29:29Don't do this at home! End up at the dentist.
0:29:31 > 0:29:34Did you just use tape or did you use the machine?
0:29:34 > 0:29:37I did use the machine, although you can see half the tape.
0:29:37 > 0:29:38Oh, David!
0:29:38 > 0:29:41It's sticky tape. Just roll it over and no-one will notice.
0:29:43 > 0:29:45- Are those leather leaves?- Yes.
0:29:45 > 0:29:47Come on! Come on!
0:29:56 > 0:29:58Trim, trim, trim, trim.
0:30:00 > 0:30:02Guys, your time's up!
0:30:02 > 0:30:04Your tops have to be on your mannequins.
0:30:04 > 0:30:07Bring them forward. We'll jumble them around.
0:30:07 > 0:30:09# Oops! My heart went oops
0:30:09 > 0:30:11# The moment that we met
0:30:11 > 0:30:13# My heart went oops
0:30:13 > 0:30:15# I never will forget
0:30:15 > 0:30:19Patrick and May have no idea whose alteration is whose.
0:30:19 > 0:30:22Well, there's certainly been an awful lot of work gone on
0:30:22 > 0:30:25in the hour and a half since we left the room.
0:30:25 > 0:30:28And I'm surprised at the range of things that have been done.
0:30:28 > 0:30:30There's a lot of different techniques here.
0:30:35 > 0:30:38Without that, I'd say it was a much better-looking garment.
0:30:38 > 0:30:42I don't understand why we've got grosgrain and lace
0:30:42 > 0:30:43and floral buttons.
0:30:49 > 0:30:52We've obviously had a bit of trouble with the seaming down here.
0:30:52 > 0:30:55A nice idea. The a combination of the two leathers isn't bad
0:30:55 > 0:30:59but it seems to me a little bit confused in its execution.
0:30:59 > 0:31:01I just feel this looks a little bit messy.
0:31:06 > 0:31:10That's a clever bit of cutting to make that sit and flute like that.
0:31:10 > 0:31:14Yeah. And the lace is quite nicely and neatly attached
0:31:14 > 0:31:15all the way round.
0:31:20 > 0:31:23I think I'd have liked to have seen all of this just cut out
0:31:23 > 0:31:27and disappeared and end up with a nice V-neck.
0:31:32 > 0:31:34Some really nice panelling here.
0:31:34 > 0:31:38Actually, a nice use of the fact that leather can be left
0:31:38 > 0:31:40as a raw edge.
0:31:44 > 0:31:48A very nice, smooth line both over the bust
0:31:48 > 0:31:50and down through this line.
0:31:50 > 0:31:53And also, a good use of some leather circles which have been
0:31:53 > 0:31:57sewn together to make this lovely flower.
0:31:57 > 0:32:00To give the sewers a clear indication of their success
0:32:00 > 0:32:01with handling leather,
0:32:01 > 0:32:05Patrick and May put the mannequins in order of preference.
0:32:05 > 0:32:09- OK.- So, then, can we invite the creator of blue Hiawatha, please?
0:32:11 > 0:32:13David!
0:32:13 > 0:32:16Be confident in what you've created and look at it and think,
0:32:16 > 0:32:19"Is that a nice piece of clothing?" If it is, don't think,
0:32:19 > 0:32:22"I've got five minutes left. I need to do more."
0:32:23 > 0:32:26Please could the owner of number five come up?
0:32:26 > 0:32:27It's Heather!
0:32:27 > 0:32:31The little bit of suede you put in the front was nicely executed
0:32:31 > 0:32:33and then the rest of it just went a bit mad.
0:32:33 > 0:32:35It did. It went completely mad.
0:32:37 > 0:32:40'Tamara is fourth and Jenni is third.'
0:32:40 > 0:32:41So here are your top two.
0:32:41 > 0:32:43And there they both are.
0:32:45 > 0:32:47Could the creator of number two come and get her?
0:32:49 > 0:32:51ALL: Ah!
0:32:52 > 0:32:54Well done on a great garment.
0:32:54 > 0:32:55I like the way in which you
0:32:55 > 0:32:57cut the curve on the suede.
0:32:57 > 0:32:59It works very, very well.
0:32:59 > 0:33:02- Thank you.- And the winner is Lynda!
0:33:05 > 0:33:07Well done.
0:33:07 > 0:33:08Surprise.
0:33:08 > 0:33:10You've done a fantastic job here.
0:33:10 > 0:33:12It shows just what you can do
0:33:12 > 0:33:15with the right material in the right place. It's just a really
0:33:15 > 0:33:17well-executed sew.
0:33:17 > 0:33:19You did brilliantly. Nylon and leather.
0:33:19 > 0:33:23You all deserve awards. Go home. Have some doughnuts.
0:33:23 > 0:33:28We'll see you tomorrow for a big challenge with a tricky fabric.
0:33:29 > 0:33:32You know, I never do very well in these challenges,
0:33:32 > 0:33:35so to come first was absolutely brilliant.
0:33:35 > 0:33:39Second again. I need to climb up soon but I was very happy.
0:33:41 > 0:33:46Today I came fifth and fifth. Tomorrow I'm going to really panic,
0:33:46 > 0:33:49pray, and hopefully sew really well.
0:33:55 > 0:33:58One more challenge and one more day, at the end of which Patrick
0:33:58 > 0:34:02and May must decide who will be going forward to the quarterfinal.
0:34:02 > 0:34:04How did they do yesterday?
0:34:04 > 0:34:07Tamara finally resisted the urge to go off-pattern
0:34:07 > 0:34:12and ended up sewing a really fantastically professional-looking garment.
0:34:12 > 0:34:14Lynda had a totally mismatched day.
0:34:14 > 0:34:17She lost the anorak challenge and then she came top.
0:34:17 > 0:34:21Lynda went from zero to hero in just those two challenges.
0:34:21 > 0:34:24What yesterday showed us is that it's very difficult to pick
0:34:24 > 0:34:26a frontrunner, and it's very difficult to pick
0:34:26 > 0:34:27who might be in trouble.
0:34:27 > 0:34:29Nobody is secure.
0:34:29 > 0:34:31It hinges on how well they do with this challenge.
0:34:31 > 0:34:33After you, Lynda, darling.
0:34:33 > 0:34:36As usual, the sewers have had a chance to practise this challenge
0:34:36 > 0:34:38at home, but for the first time in the sewing room,
0:34:38 > 0:34:41they'll be making a made-to-measure garment for themselves.
0:34:41 > 0:34:43So to ensure the perfect fit, they'll be pairing up.
0:34:45 > 0:34:47- Good morning, everybody. - ALL: Morning.
0:34:47 > 0:34:50So this week is all about tricky fabrics.
0:34:50 > 0:34:53Today the judges would like to see how you cope with velvet.
0:34:54 > 0:34:57They'd like you to make a pair of velvet trousers.
0:34:57 > 0:35:01They suggest you all choose a fit buddy and you help each other
0:35:01 > 0:35:03with measuring, etc.
0:35:03 > 0:35:06You have six and a half hours, to make a pair...
0:35:06 > 0:35:08Can't wait to see yours, David!
0:35:08 > 0:35:12..of velvet trousers. Your time starts now!
0:35:16 > 0:35:19Velvet trousers. Who wears velvet trousers?
0:35:20 > 0:35:23I haven't made velvet trousers. I've made other things in velvet
0:35:23 > 0:35:26and I love it but it's a beast to sew.
0:35:26 > 0:35:29Velvet is most commonly made from cotton, woven together
0:35:29 > 0:35:33in two layers. This is then sliced apart, revealing a tightly
0:35:33 > 0:35:36packed cut thread, or pile, which sits proud
0:35:36 > 0:35:38on the surface of the fabric.
0:35:38 > 0:35:40I just always call it a hairy fabric.
0:35:42 > 0:35:44The pile can be brushed in either direction.
0:35:44 > 0:35:46This is called the nap.
0:35:46 > 0:35:49The sewers need to pin their patterns on to the velvet,
0:35:49 > 0:35:53so that the nap brushes in the same direction, or the trousers will end up looking patchy.
0:35:54 > 0:35:58If you brush it one way, it looks dark. If you brush it
0:35:58 > 0:36:01the other way it's all shiny...ish.
0:36:01 > 0:36:05I'm going to choose to go down the fabric,
0:36:05 > 0:36:09simply because I love that wonderful sheen.
0:36:10 > 0:36:13Heather's making a classic pair of slim-fitting trousers,
0:36:13 > 0:36:17out of a firm cotton velvet, which will be half lined on the inside.
0:36:18 > 0:36:22I'm afraid I'm abusing the judges' furniture. I hope they don't mind.
0:36:22 > 0:36:26I'll be off this before they get in here anyway, I hope.
0:36:26 > 0:36:29I have never worked with velvet before,
0:36:29 > 0:36:32so I'm a little bit nervous about the challenge
0:36:32 > 0:36:34but I love velvet.
0:36:34 > 0:36:38I would kill for a velvet suit, so I'm looking forward to making them.
0:36:38 > 0:36:40But it's going to be a tricky one!
0:36:41 > 0:36:45Jenni is making high-waisted trousers, with a zip fly,
0:36:45 > 0:36:47tapered at the ankle with turn-ups
0:36:47 > 0:36:49out of a fluid synthetic silk velvet.
0:36:51 > 0:36:52Your velvet, to me...
0:36:52 > 0:36:54I'm just going to be honest
0:36:54 > 0:36:55with you. It feels really "floopy".
0:36:55 > 0:36:57Are you all right with that?
0:36:57 > 0:37:00Erm...yeah. Because it's a tapered trouser, I'm not too worried
0:37:00 > 0:37:03- about the "floopiness". - Are you worried about time?
0:37:03 > 0:37:06I have practised with velvet at home and I didn't complete in time.
0:37:06 > 0:37:09Oh, my God. I'm getting out of your way. Bye, snazzy girl.
0:37:11 > 0:37:13I've actually got boots on today
0:37:13 > 0:37:18because my legs are very fat at the top and really thin at the bottom.
0:37:18 > 0:37:21So I've worn the boots to try and even out the shape of my legs.
0:37:21 > 0:37:24I don't know whether that's cheating or just being crafty.
0:37:24 > 0:37:26I don't know.
0:37:26 > 0:37:28Lynda's making a classic straight-legged trouser
0:37:28 > 0:37:31with a zip fly and side pockets.
0:37:31 > 0:37:33Once, I've used velvet in the past.
0:37:33 > 0:37:36I think it was 30 something years ago.
0:37:36 > 0:37:38And I made a lovely velvet dress with a white collar,
0:37:38 > 0:37:44for my daughter, Sarah. And that's the only time I've ever used velvet.
0:37:44 > 0:37:46Where's my tape measure?
0:37:46 > 0:37:51I'm making a gentleman's pair of trousers from this pattern.
0:37:51 > 0:37:53Very Saturday Night Fever.
0:37:54 > 0:37:58David's chino-style trousers will have a front fly and side pockets.
0:37:58 > 0:38:01- Hello.- You all right, mate? How are you doing?
0:38:01 > 0:38:04- I'm all right. Who's your fit buddy? - I'm going to go with Tamara.
0:38:04 > 0:38:07Love it. And also, you'll be used to buddying up.
0:38:07 > 0:38:09# Nee-naw, nee-naw. #
0:38:09 > 0:38:10"Come on. I've got your back!"
0:38:10 > 0:38:13- It's all about the buddy system. - That's what we're doing now.
0:38:13 > 0:38:16- Get down!- I'm not getting down. I've got business to do.
0:38:16 > 0:38:20Fine! I'm just in my own little police velvet world.
0:38:20 > 0:38:22Wouldn't it be marvellous if we just gave everyone
0:38:22 > 0:38:25- a velvet uniform to wear? - Why wouldn't you?
0:38:25 > 0:38:28It would stop crime overnight. People would be too busy laughing.
0:38:30 > 0:38:33I've cut my trousers and I'm now tacking them together
0:38:33 > 0:38:35before I make them up.
0:38:37 > 0:38:39Sewing velvet cannot be rushed.
0:38:39 > 0:38:42To prevent the seams from puckering, the two leg pieces should be
0:38:42 > 0:38:45secured together before going under the machine.
0:38:46 > 0:38:48Velvet has the tendency to creep.
0:38:48 > 0:38:51Because the piles are sitting next to each other, they can move,
0:38:51 > 0:38:54so really careful handling.
0:38:54 > 0:38:56Where could people really go wrong?
0:38:56 > 0:39:01Any surface stitching could look awful. Also, seams, if they move,
0:39:01 > 0:39:03you could have one piece of fabric
0:39:03 > 0:39:06puckering on another piece of fabric. Bulk!
0:39:06 > 0:39:10Velvet is bulky, so there are all sorts of things to think about.
0:39:10 > 0:39:13The rule of thumb is, if you think you've got enough pins in,
0:39:13 > 0:39:16double it. Because it's a bit of a walking fabric.
0:39:16 > 0:39:19What I want to do is get it right first time
0:39:19 > 0:39:21and not have to chase this.
0:39:22 > 0:39:24Here we go.
0:39:30 > 0:39:31I'm going to sew this together.
0:39:31 > 0:39:32Just sewn on like that.
0:39:32 > 0:39:34There's your pocket, then.
0:39:40 > 0:39:43I have practised this challenge. I made it in an awful velvet.
0:39:43 > 0:39:46I think it was furniture velvet, actually.
0:39:46 > 0:39:47And it was just awful.
0:39:47 > 0:39:51Chinelo's skinny-legged trousers are topped with an asymmetric
0:39:51 > 0:39:55peplum ruffle, which is lined in a contrast fabric.
0:39:55 > 0:39:57Have you worked with velvet before?
0:39:57 > 0:39:58A hundred million thousand times.
0:39:58 > 0:40:01A hundred million thousand? That's a lot.
0:40:01 > 0:40:02It's one of my favourite fabrics.
0:40:02 > 0:40:05Why do you love it so much? Cos it's difficult to sew with.
0:40:05 > 0:40:07I just think it looks luxurious.
0:40:07 > 0:40:11I feel like I could drape myself somewhere when I wear velvet.
0:40:11 > 0:40:13- I love you, Chinelo-chops. - On a piano or something...
0:40:13 > 0:40:16A piano! We need a piano for judging.
0:40:16 > 0:40:18..whilst my husband plays it, oiled up.
0:40:18 > 0:40:20We've just turned a corner
0:40:20 > 0:40:23but don't think that that image isn't staying with me.
0:40:28 > 0:40:31I'm just doing my side seams so I can do my first fitting.
0:40:33 > 0:40:35Tamara's Capris pants are made from
0:40:35 > 0:40:37a lightweight cotton velvet.
0:40:37 > 0:40:39She's lining the inside of the waistband
0:40:39 > 0:40:42and a back pocket with a contrast print.
0:40:42 > 0:40:44Are you still riding high on anorak?
0:40:44 > 0:40:47Of course not! That doesn't mean anything.
0:40:47 > 0:40:50You're only as good as your last garment.
0:40:50 > 0:40:51Gosh! You suddenly became May.
0:40:51 > 0:40:55You, happily, have got police boy, on crutches, to be your fit buddy.
0:40:55 > 0:40:57- Aren't I lucky?- Is he useful?
0:40:57 > 0:41:00We're going to have our first fitting very shortly.
0:41:00 > 0:41:03Great. I'll get my trousers off.
0:41:03 > 0:41:05Go on, Dave, get them off.
0:41:05 > 0:41:07- WOLF WHISTLES - Control yourself, Heather!
0:41:12 > 0:41:14- (Jen, I'm just going to go in.)- OK.
0:41:14 > 0:41:17To achieve a good fit, the sewers have paired up.
0:41:17 > 0:41:19Jenni is Heather's fit buddy.
0:41:21 > 0:41:23I should have had the Bridget Joneses on.
0:41:25 > 0:41:27I wasn't going to say that.
0:41:27 > 0:41:29How important is it to have a fit buddy?
0:41:29 > 0:41:33It's virtually impossible to do a good fit on yourself.
0:41:33 > 0:41:34What are you aiming for?
0:41:34 > 0:41:37- The back of the calf, here? - Just above the ankle, actually.
0:41:37 > 0:41:40As soon as you bend down to tack a hem,
0:41:40 > 0:41:42you know, the trousers ride up.
0:41:42 > 0:41:44As soon as you turn round to look at the back,
0:41:44 > 0:41:48you're twisting the whole trouser out of shape and out of balance.
0:41:48 > 0:41:50You're trying to put something around
0:41:50 > 0:41:52all sorts of curves in three dimensions.
0:41:52 > 0:41:56It's almost impossible to get a really good fit
0:41:56 > 0:41:58without standing straight up and down
0:41:58 > 0:41:59while the clothes are being fitted on you.
0:41:59 > 0:42:02Chinelo is my buddy. When I was slim,
0:42:02 > 0:42:08I was not the same shape as Chinelo but we've both got big bums.
0:42:08 > 0:42:11- Not big! Round.- Round bums.- Yes.- Yes.
0:42:11 > 0:42:14So I think we'll be good to fit on each other.
0:42:16 > 0:42:19- Just be careful with the pins. - Yes, I will.
0:42:19 > 0:42:22- What I'm doing, David, is making sure that your centre seam...- Yeah.
0:42:22 > 0:42:25..is in the centre of your darts.
0:42:25 > 0:42:26You're fantastic.
0:42:26 > 0:42:28I'm not going to go right underneath.
0:42:28 > 0:42:29What do you mean? Why not?
0:42:29 > 0:42:33If you don't mind! There's friends and there's friends.
0:42:35 > 0:42:37Feels like it could go in.
0:42:37 > 0:42:40- Yeah, it can, a little bit. - Ooh, careful.
0:42:40 > 0:42:43My tights are interfering with the velvet.
0:42:43 > 0:42:47- Yeah.- So I've taken my... - ..knickers off.
0:42:47 > 0:42:49- I've taken my tights off.- OK.
0:42:49 > 0:42:51But you will see my bottom.
0:42:51 > 0:42:53If you take that in there, look...
0:42:54 > 0:42:58- You'll have to go from the top seam, obviously.- Yeah.- Yeah.- OK.
0:42:58 > 0:43:00That's where it needs to sit...
0:43:00 > 0:43:02- OK.- Brilliant. Thank you, darling.
0:43:03 > 0:43:05Hopefully we're nearly there. Hopefully.
0:43:09 > 0:43:11Sewers, you're halfway through.
0:43:13 > 0:43:15This zip is going to be in the front of my trousers
0:43:15 > 0:43:18so when my trousers are zipped up, it just looks like a seam.
0:43:18 > 0:43:22While Chinelo's inserting a straightforward invisible zip...
0:43:22 > 0:43:25It has to be perfect cos if it's not, it'll look silly.
0:43:25 > 0:43:28..Jenni is attempting a more complex fly fastening.
0:43:28 > 0:43:36This piece here is the under-flap of the fly.
0:43:36 > 0:43:39When you undo your zip, you can see this flap here -
0:43:39 > 0:43:42that's basically what I'm doing now.
0:43:43 > 0:43:45There's quite a lot of layers on there.
0:43:45 > 0:43:49I think there's about four layers of fabric.
0:43:49 > 0:43:51And it's just struggling a little bit.
0:43:51 > 0:43:53No, I don't like you.
0:43:56 > 0:43:58A fly.
0:43:59 > 0:44:01That's the best one I've ever done.
0:44:01 > 0:44:04There's Patrick, looming over there.
0:44:04 > 0:44:07All I heard was, "It's the best one I've ever done."
0:44:07 > 0:44:09He's going to wonder how bad the other two were.
0:44:11 > 0:44:14I've got a wrinkle in my zip, which is a shame.
0:44:14 > 0:44:16When I did it at home it was perfect.
0:44:16 > 0:44:17Typical, isn't it?
0:44:18 > 0:44:20He's bound to see it.
0:44:21 > 0:44:24He'll spot that at 20 paces.
0:44:24 > 0:44:27Morning. Now, what're you doing?
0:44:27 > 0:44:29Nothing, Patrick.
0:44:29 > 0:44:34- I'm not happy with my zip.- No. I can see that.- Don't look yet.
0:44:34 > 0:44:36- Got a little bit of a wrinkle. - A pucker.- Yeah.
0:44:37 > 0:44:39Difficult unpicking velvet.
0:44:39 > 0:44:43- I know. I'm going to see what I can do without unpicking it.- OK.
0:44:43 > 0:44:47- I'll leave you to get on with it. - I'll have a try with this zip.- Good.
0:44:48 > 0:44:49Everyone's seen my
0:44:49 > 0:44:54wrinkled zip, so I'm trying to iron it out, press it out.
0:44:56 > 0:44:58Steam it out? Anything it out.
0:45:03 > 0:45:05I'm doing my waistband at the moment.
0:45:05 > 0:45:09On the pattern, there's a V at the very front,
0:45:09 > 0:45:11but the back is quite plain.
0:45:11 > 0:45:12So I've made my own
0:45:12 > 0:45:15pattern piece. I'm going to put a V in the back as well.
0:45:15 > 0:45:22I'm making sure that my V point lies in line with the centre back seam.
0:45:23 > 0:45:26This is the interfacing for the waistband.
0:45:26 > 0:45:29It's stiffening. It gives it some body.
0:45:29 > 0:45:31So I put it in the centre here.
0:45:31 > 0:45:35And when that folds over, that gives a nice waistband.
0:45:37 > 0:45:40- Hello, green velvet lady.- Hi.
0:45:40 > 0:45:42Let me have a look. Ooh, that's nice.
0:45:42 > 0:45:46Um, I've done the fly and I've done my pockets.
0:45:46 > 0:45:50Waistband needs to look really stiff and very crisp.
0:45:50 > 0:45:52And that fabric hasn't got an awful lot of structure
0:45:52 > 0:45:54- compared with some of the other velvets.- I know.
0:45:54 > 0:45:58Velvet's a difficult fabric anyway. This one is particularly slippy.
0:45:58 > 0:46:03I'm going to sew in this sturdy interfacing with my waistband.
0:46:03 > 0:46:08I'd be tempted to double this up because this is a very soft fabric.
0:46:08 > 0:46:11- I know you're worried about time, so we'll leave you.- Thank you.
0:46:11 > 0:46:1514 plus 14 is...
0:46:15 > 0:46:19Chinelo is the only sewer adding an extra layer on top of her trousers.
0:46:20 > 0:46:23I like peplums because of the shape they give.
0:46:23 > 0:46:24They make your waist
0:46:24 > 0:46:28look smaller and hips look bigger and I like that kind of shape.
0:46:32 > 0:46:34I've just cut out the length of my peplum.
0:46:34 > 0:46:37Then, I'll move this up four inches on this central line.
0:46:40 > 0:46:41It makes it longer at the back.
0:46:46 > 0:46:47See? When it's held up like that...
0:46:50 > 0:46:54Heather is the only sewer adding an extra layer underneath her trousers.
0:46:54 > 0:46:58I'm going to half-line my trousers because
0:46:58 > 0:47:00when you get warm, velvet tends to stick to you a little bit.
0:47:00 > 0:47:04I've just literally made a copy of my trousers
0:47:04 > 0:47:07and these will just slip onto the insides.
0:47:07 > 0:47:11They look like giant bloomers, don't they?
0:47:30 > 0:47:31What's the matter?
0:47:31 > 0:47:35- Can you put it right? - Not without re-doing my waistband.
0:47:35 > 0:47:37(The thing is, it should be...)
0:47:37 > 0:47:40That's fine. It's supposed to be like that.
0:47:40 > 0:47:41(Thanks, darling.)
0:47:44 > 0:47:48I've done the double interfacing, so I've got a nice, stiff waistband.
0:47:48 > 0:47:51But I was so concerned about the velvet
0:47:51 > 0:47:57and the lining that I've put my waistbands on the wrong way round.
0:48:04 > 0:48:06Sewers, you have half an hour left.
0:48:21 > 0:48:24Seems roughly about right. Do you want to look?
0:48:24 > 0:48:26- That's cool.- Yeah?- Thank you very much.- No worries.
0:48:29 > 0:48:31Because velvet bruises easily,
0:48:31 > 0:48:33the hems should be delicately hand-sewn.
0:48:33 > 0:48:36I love hand-sewing. Lovely.
0:48:36 > 0:48:38My favourite thing to do.
0:48:38 > 0:48:41But David plans a short cut.
0:48:41 > 0:48:44Tell me what hems you're going to do on these.
0:48:44 > 0:48:47I'm going to try to do a blind hem with the machine.
0:48:47 > 0:48:49The mere fact that you have to fold the velvet
0:48:49 > 0:48:51as you put it under
0:48:51 > 0:48:56the machine, you are creasing your velvet, so that is really crucial.
0:48:56 > 0:48:59On Savile Row we'd normally sew this by hand.
0:48:59 > 0:49:01Quite tempted to do it by hand.
0:49:04 > 0:49:07Sewers, you've got ten minutes. Ten minutes left.
0:49:10 > 0:49:15I'm very, very quickly trying to hand-sew my hem.
0:49:25 > 0:49:28I don't mind-hand sewing. It's good when you've got time, not great
0:49:28 > 0:49:30when you haven't.
0:49:30 > 0:49:33I'm hemming my trousers, I've only got five minutes.
0:49:33 > 0:49:36So to say it's rushed is an understatement.
0:49:40 > 0:49:41Right.
0:49:46 > 0:49:49Just got to put my bar and hook on now
0:49:49 > 0:49:51but I want to press my waistband at least.
0:49:53 > 0:49:55I'm just sewing in my hook and eye
0:49:55 > 0:49:59but finding this whole process quite upsetting.
0:49:59 > 0:50:00There's nothing worse than
0:50:00 > 0:50:04putting all your effort into a waistband that's wrong.
0:50:04 > 0:50:06One minute. One!
0:50:13 > 0:50:17I think they're good enough for a dinner party.
0:50:17 > 0:50:18Lovely.
0:50:18 > 0:50:22Right. That's it. That's it. Time's up.
0:50:22 > 0:50:25Chinelo, I need to see you. Oh, yes.
0:50:25 > 0:50:29What I haven't told you is we're all going to a velvet trouser
0:50:29 > 0:50:31party back at mine. Well done. Look at you.
0:50:33 > 0:50:34Honest opinion? I hate them.
0:50:34 > 0:50:38They're terribly finished and the waistband's not right.
0:50:38 > 0:50:41But at least I'm not walking around in my pants.
0:50:41 > 0:50:45JOLLY '20s MUSIC
0:50:47 > 0:50:50The sewers will now model their own trousers
0:50:50 > 0:50:51for Patrick and May to judge.
0:50:51 > 0:50:55First up, the goddess that is Lynda.
0:51:01 > 0:51:05I would say those are a really good-fitting pair of trousers.
0:51:05 > 0:51:10- Thank you. They feel lovely.- Yeah. - Nice, flat waistband.
0:51:10 > 0:51:15Also we cannot see where you stitched your hems.
0:51:15 > 0:51:16Invisible.
0:51:16 > 0:51:18Can we look at the fly as well?
0:51:18 > 0:51:20Can we have a look?
0:51:20 > 0:51:23- One little pucker. - That's what I was worried about.
0:51:23 > 0:51:26But it's a very neatly sewn and well-fitted pair of trousers.
0:51:35 > 0:51:38They fit you really well. They really are a good fit.
0:51:38 > 0:51:41Some really lovely top stitching around your waist.
0:51:41 > 0:51:44The execution of that peplum is really, really good.
0:51:44 > 0:51:45It's been nicely handled.
0:51:45 > 0:51:49But you haven't concealed the hook and bar.
0:51:49 > 0:51:52Somehow it's pulling open a bit but...
0:51:52 > 0:51:55I think overall it's a pretty good pair of trousers.
0:51:55 > 0:51:57- Yeah. Well done. Well done. - Thank you very much.
0:52:06 > 0:52:08I think your darts are slightly uneven.
0:52:08 > 0:52:10This one is just slightly
0:52:10 > 0:52:12deeper than that one but they're very cleanly pressed.
0:52:12 > 0:52:15And I measured them as well. It must be about two stitches.
0:52:15 > 0:52:19Really well inserted zip. Putting a zip in on a fabric like this
0:52:19 > 0:52:21is tricky, isn't it?
0:52:21 > 0:52:24- Everything you've done, you've done well. Well done.- Well done.
0:52:24 > 0:52:29- Thank you very much, Heather.- Thank you.- Jenni, please come forward.
0:52:38 > 0:52:42I have to say, Jenni, that this was probably one of the most difficult
0:52:42 > 0:52:44velvets to work with in the room. It just bounced all over
0:52:44 > 0:52:46- the place, didn't it?- Yes.
0:52:46 > 0:52:48Now, what happened with the waistband?
0:52:48 > 0:52:51In my attempt to ensure I had a stiff waistband,
0:52:51 > 0:52:53as per Patrick's requirement,
0:52:53 > 0:52:55I lost it for a moment and put it on the wrong way round.
0:52:55 > 0:52:58Yes, your shaping should be slightly different.
0:52:58 > 0:53:02I think the fly isn't quite right, it's not concealing all of that
0:53:02 > 0:53:05- zip as it should be.- No.
0:53:05 > 0:53:08- What's going on at the bottom? - It's double.
0:53:08 > 0:53:10It just looks a little bit lumpy.
0:53:10 > 0:53:12They're not sitting cleanly round the bottom.
0:53:12 > 0:53:13OK.
0:53:22 > 0:53:25I think they're a very, very good fit.
0:53:25 > 0:53:27They don't appear to be dragging, hanging nicely.
0:53:27 > 0:53:29I'm a bit concerned that we're seeing
0:53:29 > 0:53:32a little bit of that facing coming through.
0:53:32 > 0:53:35That just needs controlling somehow. If you're going to put
0:53:35 > 0:53:37a contrast inside,
0:53:37 > 0:53:41you have to make absolutely sure that it's all on the inside.
0:53:41 > 0:53:43This pocket looks smashing.
0:53:43 > 0:53:47Can I turn you sideways? We have got a tiny bit of movement here
0:53:47 > 0:53:49but a minor detail.
0:53:49 > 0:53:52Overall, it's a very good pair of trousers.
0:54:02 > 0:54:05- I think they're a good-fitting pair of trousers.- Thank you.
0:54:05 > 0:54:08Your darts are pressed out well
0:54:08 > 0:54:11and you've done a good job with the pockets.
0:54:11 > 0:54:14But on this side we've got some walking. The back part
0:54:14 > 0:54:19of the seam is flat and the front bit, there's some fullness in there,
0:54:19 > 0:54:21where it's moved as you've sewn it.
0:54:21 > 0:54:23The fly's well executed.
0:54:23 > 0:54:27Maybe just needed a prick stitch along the edge just to keep
0:54:27 > 0:54:30that velvet closed but it is covering the zip which is
0:54:30 > 0:54:33the important thing. Overall, a perfectly wearable pair of trousers.
0:54:33 > 0:54:34Thank you.
0:54:40 > 0:54:45Thank you for your brilliant trousers and indeed your modelling.
0:54:45 > 0:54:50Go and have a relax. The judges will deliberate.
0:54:50 > 0:54:51And when you come back in,
0:54:51 > 0:54:54they will announce who will be leaving the sewing room.
0:54:56 > 0:55:00Velvet trousers. I was so excited but I just completely underestimated
0:55:00 > 0:55:05what I was letting myself in for. It was a tough, tough day.
0:55:05 > 0:55:09Yesterday wasn't a great day for me. I just don't know
0:55:09 > 0:55:11whether I've done enough to stay.
0:55:14 > 0:55:17Let's talk about who's going.
0:55:17 > 0:55:21I think there are probably a couple of contenders.
0:55:21 > 0:55:26- OK.- Sadly, Jenni's trousers really were a bit of a mess.
0:55:26 > 0:55:29The waistband - we've got a huge mistake here -
0:55:29 > 0:55:30the fly wasn't terrific.
0:55:30 > 0:55:34These turn ups are not very good at all.
0:55:34 > 0:55:36Jenni didn't cope with that challenge very well.
0:55:36 > 0:55:39Heather came fifth in the first two challenges.
0:55:39 > 0:55:42Well, her trousers were really good.
0:55:42 > 0:55:45But not the most complicated construction - no pockets.
0:55:45 > 0:55:47They were the simplest pair of trousers.
0:55:47 > 0:55:51This wasn't very well finished, wasn't one of our best anoraks.
0:55:51 > 0:55:52She could be in trouble.
0:55:52 > 0:55:55I think, for sure, Heather needs further consideration.
0:56:01 > 0:56:02Good luck, guys.
0:56:12 > 0:56:16Before the bad news, the good news.
0:56:16 > 0:56:20And the judges can reveal their garment of the week. Patrick.
0:56:20 > 0:56:23This week we chose...
0:56:23 > 0:56:26- this garment.- ALL: Yey!
0:56:26 > 0:56:28So congratulations, Tamara,
0:56:28 > 0:56:31brilliant, professional piece of sewing.
0:56:31 > 0:56:34And Patrick would quite like to buy it from you.
0:56:34 > 0:56:36Now the hideous bit.
0:56:39 > 0:56:43The person who's leaving the Sewing Bee is...
0:56:48 > 0:56:50I'm really sorry. It's Jenni.
0:56:50 > 0:56:52I told you.
0:56:52 > 0:56:55- Oh, sorry.- No, it's good. It's the right decision.
0:56:55 > 0:56:56You're our most inexperienced sewer
0:56:56 > 0:57:00but you have done some brilliant sewing.
0:57:00 > 0:57:03Given the very limited amount of time that Jenni has been sewing,
0:57:03 > 0:57:06she has really impressed both May and I.
0:57:06 > 0:57:09It's sad to be losing her to the competition
0:57:09 > 0:57:10but, at the end of the day,
0:57:10 > 0:57:13we're looking for the best sewer and this week that wasn't Jenni.
0:57:13 > 0:57:16It's getting harder to say goodbye to people each week now,
0:57:16 > 0:57:19especially Jenni. It's going to be really hard not having
0:57:19 > 0:57:21her in the room and her energy.
0:57:21 > 0:57:24- Cos she's my Jenni baby.- Yeah.
0:57:24 > 0:57:28Sewing, for me, gives you everything you can ever imagine.
0:57:28 > 0:57:30You think of something in your head
0:57:30 > 0:57:33and you're able to recreate that in a garment that you can wear.
0:57:33 > 0:57:36Anybody can pick up a needle and thread and make something,
0:57:36 > 0:57:38and that's just phenomenal.
0:57:40 > 0:57:41I love you guys.
0:57:43 > 0:57:46I didn't think I'd be in this long but to be
0:57:46 > 0:57:50though now to the quarterfinal is brilliant.
0:57:50 > 0:57:52Wow!
0:57:54 > 0:57:56At the next Sewing Bee...
0:57:56 > 0:57:58I'd better get a shift on.
0:57:58 > 0:58:02..the quarterfinalists face a mysterious pattern.
0:58:02 > 0:58:04It's almost like it's in Morse code.
0:58:04 > 0:58:07They transform an entire man's suit.
0:58:07 > 0:58:09That's a big bloke, isn't it?
0:58:09 > 0:58:13And take on the heftiest made-to-measure challenge so far.
0:58:13 > 0:58:14It's so bulky!
0:58:16 > 0:58:18A classic coat.
0:58:18 > 0:58:19I have got a lot to do.
0:58:19 > 0:58:20RIPPING
0:58:20 > 0:58:22Oh, lordy!
0:58:24 > 0:58:28Applications for the next series of Sewing Bee will be closing soon,
0:58:28 > 0:58:30so if you or someone you know would like to apply,
0:58:30 > 0:58:34please got to... bbc.co.uk/sewingbee
0:58:34 > 0:58:36You'll also find ideas there
0:58:36 > 0:58:38for sewing projects inspired by the series.