0:00:02 > 0:00:04It's the semifinal of the Great British Sewing Bee.
0:00:04 > 0:00:05Over the past six weeks
0:00:05 > 0:00:09our sewers have had to create some extraordinarily difficult items,
0:00:09 > 0:00:11from nylon anoraks to taffeta dresses.
0:00:11 > 0:00:14Well, this week they're about to face the biggest hurdle of all,
0:00:14 > 0:00:19because they have to make some amazing garments with no pattern -
0:00:19 > 0:00:20serious.
0:00:20 > 0:00:25Last week the quarterfinal saw the Sewing Bee go back in time.
0:00:25 > 0:00:29I shall never use a 1930s pattern again.
0:00:29 > 0:00:33Heather's blouse won her the pattern challenge for the third time.
0:00:33 > 0:00:37This collar is beautifully flat. The shirring is neat.
0:00:37 > 0:00:38Well done.
0:00:38 > 0:00:41Chinelo proved she could make do and mend like no other...
0:00:41 > 0:00:44It's pretty ingenious, actually.
0:00:44 > 0:00:46APPLAUSE
0:00:46 > 0:00:50..and Lynda's 1940s coat was awarded garment of the week.
0:00:50 > 0:00:52Oh, my God!
0:00:55 > 0:00:59But it was David who missed out on a place in the semifinal...
0:00:59 > 0:01:01- Oh!- Sorry!
0:01:01 > 0:01:04..and whose departure brought everyone to tears.
0:01:04 > 0:01:08I'm really sad that David's gone. He's been my hero.
0:01:11 > 0:01:14This week, a place in the final is at stake...
0:01:14 > 0:01:15This is the scary part!
0:01:15 > 0:01:18You could cut the air with a knife.
0:01:18 > 0:01:21So who will fall at the last hurdle?
0:01:21 > 0:01:22I feel sick!
0:01:24 > 0:01:26That's really exactly what I didn't want to do.
0:01:52 > 0:01:56Three challenges remain before The Great British Sewing Bee Final,
0:01:56 > 0:01:59and just three of the home sewers will make it through.
0:02:00 > 0:02:03I'm absolutely delighted to be in the semifinal!
0:02:03 > 0:02:05I can't actually believe I'm here.
0:02:05 > 0:02:06Learning support assistant Lynda
0:02:06 > 0:02:09has won garment of the week three times,
0:02:09 > 0:02:13but has been inconsistent across the challenges.
0:02:13 > 0:02:16- It's squint.- I know.- Sorry.
0:02:16 > 0:02:20Lynda's work varies. We need her to produce one of her best weeks
0:02:20 > 0:02:22to get her place in the final.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24Now I've got to this stage,
0:02:24 > 0:02:26there's that little, little butterfly-in-my-tummy feeling
0:02:26 > 0:02:30of being on the edge of something massive.
0:02:30 > 0:02:33Yoga teacher Tamara creates ambitious garments
0:02:33 > 0:02:37and has constantly surprised the judges with her originality.
0:02:37 > 0:02:38It's just amazing!
0:02:38 > 0:02:42I think she needs to strike a good balance between her natural
0:02:42 > 0:02:45exuberance and giving herself enough time to finish everything
0:02:45 > 0:02:48to the standard that we're looking for.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52Now I'm here in the semifinal I can see the finishing line
0:02:52 > 0:02:56and I think I want to make a big dash for it.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00Dressage trainer Heather is the most traditional sewer of the group.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03You have got a beautiful handpicked sewn-in zip.
0:03:03 > 0:03:07Heather is technically very, very good.
0:03:07 > 0:03:10However, sometimes she's playing safe,
0:03:10 > 0:03:14and I think if she plays it too safe, she could be in danger.
0:03:14 > 0:03:16The final is just so close,
0:03:16 > 0:03:20and there is no room for error - every stitch is going to count.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23Media graduate Chinelo is the youngest in the Sewing Bee
0:03:23 > 0:03:27and the only sewer not to have won the pattern challenge -
0:03:27 > 0:03:28although she excels at the others.
0:03:28 > 0:03:31I think it's incredibly impactful.
0:03:31 > 0:03:33The fitting is exceptional.
0:03:33 > 0:03:37Chinelo does have that natural flair for balance and fit.
0:03:37 > 0:03:39This week we've taken away the patterns,
0:03:39 > 0:03:42and this might just play to Chinelo's strengths.
0:03:49 > 0:03:52Congratulations on making it through to the semifinal.
0:03:52 > 0:03:54So, you know that the first challenge
0:03:54 > 0:03:56is when we give you a pattern.
0:03:56 > 0:03:59So, Patrick, what have you got for them today?
0:03:59 > 0:04:03Well, we've tested you on pretty much every pattern under the sun,
0:04:03 > 0:04:05so this week we'd like you to make a dress,
0:04:05 > 0:04:07but we're not going to give you a pattern at all.
0:04:07 > 0:04:08- Right.- Oh, my goodness!
0:04:08 > 0:04:11- We're going to have to make one ourselves!- No, no!
0:04:11 > 0:04:13Heather wants to weep already.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15We're giving you a mannequin,
0:04:15 > 0:04:17three metres of fabric and some pins.
0:04:17 > 0:04:22And what we would like you to do is cut it, pleat it, gather it,
0:04:22 > 0:04:23shape it, drape it,
0:04:23 > 0:04:28and we would love you to make us a dress using all those techniques.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30You do have three hours.
0:04:30 > 0:04:32Your time starts...
0:04:32 > 0:04:33now. Go.
0:04:37 > 0:04:38Oh, gosh.
0:04:40 > 0:04:41Does it drape?
0:04:41 > 0:04:43I think it's going to be fun, this challenge -
0:04:43 > 0:04:46I've not done anything like this before.
0:04:46 > 0:04:47I like this, it's pretty.
0:04:47 > 0:04:49Yes, I'm going to go for this one.
0:04:50 > 0:04:52I'm looking for a drapey fabric.
0:04:52 > 0:04:56But I don't want it too flimsy, cos I don't like floppy fabric.
0:04:56 > 0:04:58I'm really excited about this challenge, actually.
0:04:58 > 0:05:01It's a chance to really be quite creative...
0:05:01 > 0:05:03and I love that.
0:05:03 > 0:05:05There's not three metres on this.
0:05:08 > 0:05:10Oh, there is. Just three metres.
0:05:10 > 0:05:13I'm looking for drapey fabric, and I think I've got it.
0:05:13 > 0:05:15It feels all nice and soft, and...
0:05:17 > 0:05:20Hopefully it's going to be kind to me.
0:05:22 > 0:05:23I have done this,
0:05:23 > 0:05:26but generally I've had a lot more time to play with it.
0:05:29 > 0:05:31It's a lovely bit of cloth, as my mother would say.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34Let's see if I can get it right this time, eh, kids?
0:05:34 > 0:05:35Course you will.
0:05:36 > 0:05:39The only thing I've seen is when I've been in fabric shops
0:05:39 > 0:05:42and they've got the material pinned onto the mannequins,
0:05:42 > 0:05:44and I've always thought, "Wow, that's fabulous!
0:05:44 > 0:05:46"But I don't think I could ever do it."
0:05:46 > 0:05:48And here I am.
0:05:48 > 0:05:52Patrick and May, why have you chosen a no-pattern week?
0:05:52 > 0:05:55Any good sewer needs to be able to create garments from scratch,
0:05:55 > 0:05:58and for that they need to be able to either draft a pattern
0:05:58 > 0:05:59or drape a garment.
0:05:59 > 0:06:01I mean, it can be the case that people don't feel confident
0:06:01 > 0:06:05to make things without a pattern, but there are other ways.
0:06:05 > 0:06:08I'm going be making a halter neck sort of dress
0:06:08 > 0:06:12that's going to drape from the bust right down.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17This is going to go around the neck, like so.
0:06:17 > 0:06:19This is the first time I'm doing this,
0:06:19 > 0:06:22so I'm just going to be going off on a whim here.
0:06:22 > 0:06:26Chinelo and Lynda have both started by immediately draping
0:06:26 > 0:06:29and roughly pinning the fabric on the mannequin.
0:06:29 > 0:06:31What you doing?
0:06:31 > 0:06:33Right, making the skirt,
0:06:33 > 0:06:36then is going to be draped over the shoulders.
0:06:36 > 0:06:39But somehow I've got to figure... I want to make it into a top
0:06:39 > 0:06:45with some sort of fancy something, and make it up as I go along.
0:06:45 > 0:06:49Heather and Tamara have taken a more methodical approach.
0:06:49 > 0:06:52My plan is to make a little sketch first.
0:06:52 > 0:06:55Then I'll know what shapes I want on the mannequin,
0:06:55 > 0:06:57and then I'll cut it out.
0:06:57 > 0:07:00Well, I'm just sketching through a few little ideas.
0:07:00 > 0:07:03So, I'm just going to play and see how I feel about the fabric
0:07:03 > 0:07:06and then we'll crack on.
0:07:07 > 0:07:11Tamara, Tamara - can I tell you what I love about you?
0:07:11 > 0:07:14First thing you did was draw.
0:07:14 > 0:07:17- Yes.- Have you worked without a pattern before?
0:07:17 > 0:07:18Occasionally, yeah.
0:07:18 > 0:07:21Would you describe this as a tea dress?
0:07:21 > 0:07:24- Yes, very much a day dress, tea dress.- OK, gorgeous.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27- A picnic dress. - Picnic! Who doesn't love a picnic?
0:07:27 > 0:07:29OK, where do you begin?
0:07:29 > 0:07:31So you did... I love the fact you started with a belt.
0:07:31 > 0:07:34What I'm going to do is cut my pieces out and tuck them into that,
0:07:34 > 0:07:36so it helps me get it all together.
0:07:36 > 0:07:37OK, gorgeous.
0:07:37 > 0:07:40- Morning.- Good morning.- How are you? - All right.
0:07:40 > 0:07:44- So, you've got fabric draped on the bias.- I have.
0:07:44 > 0:07:45- It helps drape, doesn't it?- Yeah.
0:07:45 > 0:07:47- Because you've got this cross-way grain.- Yeah.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51Are you going to do anything more with all of this excess here?
0:07:51 > 0:07:55I'm going to cut this off, so it's going to be bias draped body,
0:07:55 > 0:07:58- and then I'm going to make a skirt part...- On the straight, or...?
0:07:58 > 0:08:00- I'm going to make it on the straight.- OK.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02- I think it looks great. - It's a good start.
0:08:02 > 0:08:03- Thanks.- Yeah.
0:08:04 > 0:08:07I'm actually pinning to the mannequin at this stage.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10Once I've finished I'll go round and baste stitch the whole thing.
0:08:10 > 0:08:12Then I'll take it off and sew it.
0:08:12 > 0:08:14With designs decided upon,
0:08:14 > 0:08:18the next challenge is securing the shapes in place...
0:08:18 > 0:08:20I won't be needing that!
0:08:20 > 0:08:21Ooh!
0:08:21 > 0:08:23The pins are on the floor.
0:08:23 > 0:08:25..with pins
0:08:25 > 0:08:26What are you...?!
0:08:26 > 0:08:27Whoops!
0:08:27 > 0:08:28Argh!
0:08:28 > 0:08:29I'm getting down.
0:08:32 > 0:08:34Hurry up, Claudia, I need those pins.
0:08:34 > 0:08:35All right!
0:08:37 > 0:08:39- Hello, Chinelo.- Hello.
0:08:39 > 0:08:41You've not cut this piece of fabric at all.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44I have, I have cut out the top half of it that I need,
0:08:44 > 0:08:46this is not what the top half of the dress is going to look like.
0:08:46 > 0:08:49Ah, OK. You're just pinning this out of the way for now.
0:08:49 > 0:08:51I'm just holding this up because I want that tulip shape.
0:08:51 > 0:08:53What an interesting shape.
0:08:53 > 0:08:55- OK.- OK.- Thank you!
0:08:57 > 0:08:59But as designs begin to form,
0:08:59 > 0:09:01it's not long before ideas start to change.
0:09:04 > 0:09:09I'm trying to fit the top onto the mannequin.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12I'm actually thinking this might look nice as an Empire line.
0:09:12 > 0:09:17See, this is how things are with me. This is what I like to do.
0:09:17 > 0:09:19I like to fiddle about and change things.
0:09:19 > 0:09:20It's lovely, I love it.
0:09:29 > 0:09:31(How do I do this, how do I do this, how do I do this?)
0:09:35 > 0:09:36OK...
0:09:39 > 0:09:42I'm doing a more fitted bustier at the top,
0:09:42 > 0:09:45because I think it'll show a bit more technique.
0:09:46 > 0:09:48Have you changed your plan?
0:09:48 > 0:09:49I did change my plan!
0:09:49 > 0:09:51Me too.
0:09:51 > 0:09:52Yeah? What did you go with instead?
0:09:52 > 0:09:55I've gone with something completely different.
0:09:55 > 0:09:57Hello, Tamara. What stage are you at now?
0:09:57 > 0:10:02- You've draped...?- I've draped it, so I'm going to stitch in my tucks.
0:10:02 > 0:10:04I'm going to hem this neckline here.
0:10:04 > 0:10:05What are you going to do...?
0:10:05 > 0:10:08- Oh, you've got tucks on the shoulders, as well.- Yeah.
0:10:08 > 0:10:10So I've got tucking there and some tucking at the waist,
0:10:10 > 0:10:14- and then for the skirt I'm going to attach a separate piece.- OK.
0:10:17 > 0:10:19One hour gone.
0:10:19 > 0:10:22Right, let's have a go tacking that in place.
0:10:22 > 0:10:25I'm just basting my pleats in.
0:10:25 > 0:10:30Stabilising it, so when I take it off the mannequin, they stay.
0:10:30 > 0:10:32Loose temporary basting stitches
0:10:32 > 0:10:34keep the pleats and tucks in place...
0:10:34 > 0:10:38I just don't want it to go, "Swoosh!"
0:10:38 > 0:10:42..to ensure the fabric retains its shape once taken off the mannequin
0:10:49 > 0:10:51Oh! I've gone all the way round.
0:10:51 > 0:10:53This is the scary part!
0:11:01 > 0:11:03It's not totally falling apart.
0:11:07 > 0:11:10So, I'm just detaching the pins.
0:11:10 > 0:11:13Really want to make sure my pleats are in line.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16Sometimes you just have to close your eyes
0:11:16 > 0:11:18and get it under the sewing machine.
0:11:20 > 0:11:24Draping fabric is the most ancient way of making clothes there is -
0:11:24 > 0:11:26just look at the Greeks and Romans.
0:11:26 > 0:11:30But draping fabric on a mannequin, that was made popular in the 1930s
0:11:30 > 0:11:34by a Parisian couturier who created a brand-new look
0:11:34 > 0:11:37that was going to be copied by generations to come.
0:11:39 > 0:11:42The availability of supple fabrics like chiffon and satin,
0:11:42 > 0:11:44following the end of World War I,
0:11:44 > 0:11:47enabled fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet
0:11:47 > 0:11:49to pioneer a new way of designing clothes,
0:11:49 > 0:11:52and she began to hone her art.
0:11:53 > 0:11:57What Madeleine Vionnet did was work directly on a stand,
0:11:57 > 0:12:00and the original stands were quarter scale, so she worked in miniature.
0:12:00 > 0:12:03So she didn't sketch designs, as most designers would do,
0:12:03 > 0:12:06she worked directly with fabric and with the human body.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11Born in 1876, Madeleine Vionnet
0:12:11 > 0:12:13started work as a seamstress aged 12,
0:12:13 > 0:12:16and after working for eminent fashion houses,
0:12:16 > 0:12:19she founded her own Parisian salon
0:12:19 > 0:12:22referred to as the "Temple of Fashion".
0:12:22 > 0:12:24One of Madeleine Vionnet's great innovations
0:12:24 > 0:12:26was the use of the bias cut.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29So in traditional fabrics you have a warp and a weft -
0:12:29 > 0:12:32by cutting across the fabric at a 45 degree angle
0:12:32 > 0:12:35you create the bias, which gives you stretch and elasticity
0:12:35 > 0:12:38that allowed her to create dresses that moved with the body
0:12:38 > 0:12:41and celebrated the form.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44After World War I women's fashion was at a crossroad.
0:12:44 > 0:12:47For some women, having tasted independence
0:12:47 > 0:12:48doing their bit for the war effort,
0:12:48 > 0:12:51they wanted to wear something more liberated.
0:12:51 > 0:12:55Well, it took Madame Vionnet's determination and visionary approach
0:12:55 > 0:12:57to make that happen.
0:12:57 > 0:13:00Before she came along
0:13:00 > 0:13:04it was normal for a woman to wear layers and layers of clothing.
0:13:04 > 0:13:09A heavily restricted corset, a bust enhancer, a bodice -
0:13:09 > 0:13:13layers to create an artificial shape.
0:13:13 > 0:13:16Vionnet combined her interest in ancient Greek art
0:13:16 > 0:13:18and her background in lingerie making,
0:13:18 > 0:13:20to create exquisite dresses
0:13:20 > 0:13:24that flowed over the contours of a woman's natural body
0:13:24 > 0:13:29It was completely perfect timing for Madeleine Vionnet to come along
0:13:29 > 0:13:32and be a woman who was creating clothes for other women
0:13:32 > 0:13:35who wanted to wear less restricted clothing
0:13:35 > 0:13:39that allowed them a physical freedom to go with the political freedom
0:13:39 > 0:13:41they were demanding.
0:13:41 > 0:13:46Considered one of the greatest couturiers of the 20th century,
0:13:46 > 0:13:49Vionnet's designs saw her become a true trendsetter
0:13:49 > 0:13:51for 1930s fashion.
0:13:51 > 0:13:55She remains an inspiration to many home sewers
0:13:55 > 0:13:58who choose to make beautiful clothes without using a pattern.
0:14:02 > 0:14:04Sewers, you have one hour to go.
0:14:04 > 0:14:07- HEATHER: You are kidding. - One hour.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10That is just the most depressing thing I have heard today.
0:14:13 > 0:14:17This is my first armhole pleat that I'm stitching in.
0:14:17 > 0:14:20People are so focused on what they are doing.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22You could cut the air with a knife.
0:14:28 > 0:14:32At the moment I've got two pieces - my skirt and bodice.
0:14:32 > 0:14:36Once this is joined up, then I'll have a bit of fun with draping.
0:14:36 > 0:14:37I HOPE it'll be fun.
0:14:38 > 0:14:41Not much time. Definitely panicking about the time.
0:14:41 > 0:14:43At this stage of the competition
0:14:43 > 0:14:46having an unfinished garment is not even an option.
0:14:47 > 0:14:50Cos third place, even, isn't that fantastic now!
0:14:50 > 0:14:53I think the atmosphere is very concentrated.
0:14:53 > 0:15:00Everybody's just trying so hard to get this challenge done in the time.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03So, yeah. Hard concentration.
0:15:05 > 0:15:07Oh, God...
0:15:07 > 0:15:09That's really exactly what I didn't want to do.
0:15:09 > 0:15:12Seam ripper.
0:15:12 > 0:15:15I've just caught the front and the back here.
0:15:15 > 0:15:18Right, let's do it again.
0:15:18 > 0:15:20I'm a bit of a perfectionist,
0:15:20 > 0:15:23and if it's not entirely right I'm not happy with it.
0:15:24 > 0:15:26Tamara, what are you doing now?
0:15:26 > 0:15:29I'm just adding a bottom part of the skirt.
0:15:29 > 0:15:32Once I've added that, I'm going to zip up the back.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36- OK. What happened to your waistband? - I scrapped that.
0:15:36 > 0:15:38There wasn't time.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41I'm literally just learning on the job, so...
0:15:41 > 0:15:43Well, that's kind of the point with this exercise -
0:15:43 > 0:15:45is that you slightly do it on the job.
0:15:45 > 0:15:48Some of you have planned more than others.
0:15:48 > 0:15:50Well, I did plan, and then I actually scrapped my plan,
0:15:50 > 0:15:53- because I felt it wouldn't work as well as this.- Right.- Yeah.
0:15:53 > 0:15:56I wanted to get as much drapey-drape as possible.
0:15:56 > 0:15:58All right. We'll get out of your way.
0:15:58 > 0:16:00That is lovely. That is a picnic dress, Patrick -
0:16:00 > 0:16:02you'd look good in it.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.
0:16:08 > 0:16:12Now the top and bottom sections of the dresses are joined together...
0:16:12 > 0:16:14That'll have to do.
0:16:14 > 0:16:16..the finishing touches can be made.
0:16:16 > 0:16:20I'm just putting all my fabric to the side...
0:16:20 > 0:16:25and I'm making a massive dirty great big pleat.
0:16:29 > 0:16:30I'm playing.
0:16:30 > 0:16:31This is the fun bit.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34You probably think I'm going to pleat this -
0:16:34 > 0:16:38this is pleated so I'm thinking... whether to pleat...
0:16:38 > 0:16:41Decisions! I'm thinking. I don't know what to do.
0:16:41 > 0:16:43What are you doing here?
0:16:43 > 0:16:46- Playing.- All I would say to you is don't do too much.
0:16:46 > 0:16:48- It can be a really simple dress. - Really?
0:16:48 > 0:16:51- It doesn't need to be yards of drapery.- Oh, right!
0:16:51 > 0:16:53Because what I really would like is a big bow,
0:16:53 > 0:16:55but I thought that wouldn't be enough.
0:16:55 > 0:16:59- You don't need to...- Fabulous. - ..give us three metres of fabric...
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- Brilliant.- ..on that dress. - That's great, then. That's great.
0:17:02 > 0:17:04Thank you!
0:17:05 > 0:17:06I love him.
0:17:10 > 0:17:15- Sewers, you have ten minutes. Ten minutes.- Oh, my God.
0:17:15 > 0:17:17It's a bit long all the way round.
0:17:19 > 0:17:22Almost. Almost done.
0:17:22 > 0:17:25I have no idea whether I've got enough time here.
0:17:25 > 0:17:28I just don't know. Just don't know.
0:17:28 > 0:17:30I'm just sewing the band down on the front,
0:17:30 > 0:17:34and then it's just tidying up and sewing the bow on.
0:17:34 > 0:17:39- Quickly...- Eight minutes.- Argh!
0:17:39 > 0:17:41I'm just putting in a little bar at the back.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46This wasn't planned, but like many things,
0:17:46 > 0:17:49you don't know how something's going to turn out
0:17:49 > 0:17:51until you actually do them.
0:17:51 > 0:17:53- It's exciting, isn't it?- Oh, yes!
0:17:53 > 0:17:57I mean, this is the true Magical Mystery Sewing Tour, isn't it?
0:17:57 > 0:17:59I don't know where my bow is going to go yet.
0:18:01 > 0:18:02Looks quite nice there.
0:18:04 > 0:18:08- Just about to do a rolled hem. - No, there's no time!
0:18:08 > 0:18:09No, there is.
0:18:09 > 0:18:10Three minutes.
0:18:12 > 0:18:15I shall be really disappointed if this doesn't work.
0:18:19 > 0:18:21OK, we're done. We're done, finished.
0:18:21 > 0:18:25You have to step away. Step away, Heather.
0:18:25 > 0:18:29Let us grab the mannequins, take them next door to the judges.
0:18:29 > 0:18:32# It's a great feeling
0:18:32 > 0:18:35# To suddenly find the clouds are silver-lined
0:18:35 > 0:18:37# When the sun breaks through... #
0:18:37 > 0:18:41Four dresses made in just three hours without a pattern.
0:18:43 > 0:18:46Chinelo, you come up first, please.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50# As long as I've got someone to embrace
0:18:50 > 0:18:54# As far as I'm concerned... #
0:18:56 > 0:19:00I'm not sure the skirt works for me.
0:19:00 > 0:19:05It isn't really a tulip. It's just hanging a little bit.
0:19:05 > 0:19:08I actually love the shape, I love this tulip shape.
0:19:08 > 0:19:11- Thanks, May. - Not completely symmetrical.
0:19:11 > 0:19:13But I think that it's ALMOST worked.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17I think the bodice - it's not terrifically evenly sewn.
0:19:17 > 0:19:19It's a bit lumpy-bumpy.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39The skirt looks very well balanced, it flows well.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43And I think the bow works very nicely.
0:19:43 > 0:19:46And also your bodice is really well fitting,
0:19:46 > 0:19:47it's very well executed.
0:19:47 > 0:19:49I think it is a very good demonstration
0:19:49 > 0:19:52of how you can build something on the mannequin.
0:20:05 > 0:20:08You've used tucks for shaping at the waist,
0:20:08 > 0:20:10and we've got some tucks under the armholes.
0:20:10 > 0:20:12You've got some going one way and some going the other,
0:20:12 > 0:20:14so you actually lose the effect.
0:20:14 > 0:20:16I just feel sometimes they are fighting each other.
0:20:16 > 0:20:20It feels a little bit overtucked,
0:20:20 > 0:20:23I think in some instances, a dart would have cleaned it up
0:20:23 > 0:20:26and actually given the draped sections a bit more impact.
0:20:41 > 0:20:44You instantly see how much better the front is sitting
0:20:44 > 0:20:46because it's on the bias, isn't it?
0:20:46 > 0:20:49And I love this draped neckline, I think that works really well.
0:20:49 > 0:20:52You've got all of these really nice pleats in the back,
0:20:52 > 0:20:54which give it a good shape.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58This pleat here, I'm not entirely convinced by.
0:20:58 > 0:21:01I think if you'd stuck to your smaller pleats all the way round,
0:21:01 > 0:21:03you would have had a bit more control,
0:21:03 > 0:21:08whereas because your pleat is so deep, it's got caught in, inside.
0:21:10 > 0:21:12Patrick and May will now reveal
0:21:12 > 0:21:14who has been the least and the most successful
0:21:14 > 0:21:17at draping a dress on the stand.
0:21:17 > 0:21:19Fourth place is Tamara.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23In third place, Chinelo.
0:21:27 > 0:21:28In second place is Heather.
0:21:28 > 0:21:31We liked the use of you bias cut on the bodice
0:21:31 > 0:21:32and the drape of the neckline.
0:21:32 > 0:21:35Which means, in first place, Lynda!
0:21:35 > 0:21:38APPLAUSE
0:21:39 > 0:21:43We felt that you had just executed the brief excellently
0:21:43 > 0:21:45and finished it to a really high standard.
0:21:45 > 0:21:46Thank you very much.
0:21:49 > 0:21:52# Clap your hands... #
0:21:52 > 0:21:54I am very, very happy.
0:21:54 > 0:21:58It's a great start to the semifinal. I'm so pleased I can't tell you.
0:21:58 > 0:22:01Coming last is always a bit rubbish,
0:22:01 > 0:22:04but even more so when you're in the semifinals.
0:22:04 > 0:22:06I do feel a bit vulnerable,
0:22:06 > 0:22:11so everything I do after this has to really impress both of the judges.
0:22:11 > 0:22:14That was a bit like a leg wax, I have to say.
0:22:14 > 0:22:16Very painful, and I'm just glad it was over!
0:22:18 > 0:22:19So, it was quite a good result.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25OK, it's time for our second challenge.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28As usual, our judges want our sewers to totally transform
0:22:28 > 0:22:30a high-street garment.
0:22:30 > 0:22:33This week it's a classic alteration,
0:22:33 > 0:22:35but the judges want perfection.
0:22:42 > 0:22:47We would like you to add a pair of sleeves to this dress.
0:22:47 > 0:22:50We are looking for symmetry, we're looking for a good finish.
0:22:50 > 0:22:53Now there are three measurements you need.
0:22:53 > 0:22:55The depth of the armhole.
0:22:55 > 0:22:58You need the circumference of the armhole,
0:22:58 > 0:23:01and your mannequins have arms,
0:23:01 > 0:23:04so you need to measure around the arm as well.
0:23:04 > 0:23:05OK?
0:23:05 > 0:23:07So-so?
0:23:07 > 0:23:08All right.
0:23:08 > 0:23:10Quite quiet. Enormous luck.
0:23:10 > 0:23:14You have an hour and 45 minutes. Your time starts now.
0:23:19 > 0:23:23When this challenge was announced, I thought, "Yes!"
0:23:23 > 0:23:25But then I thought, "Actually, no."
0:23:25 > 0:23:27Because you just don't know what they're looking for.
0:23:27 > 0:23:29I know that they're looking for perfection -
0:23:29 > 0:23:31this is the semifinals, after all.
0:23:31 > 0:23:32What are you doing, Tamara?
0:23:35 > 0:23:37What am I doing?
0:23:37 > 0:23:38No idea.
0:23:38 > 0:23:42I've made sleeves before, but not to put on a dress.
0:23:42 > 0:23:45Not to be done in a dress that's sleeveless.
0:23:45 > 0:23:46I've never done this before,
0:23:46 > 0:23:49but I know what a sleeve looks like when it's flat -
0:23:49 > 0:23:51it looks this shape.
0:23:51 > 0:23:54This is actually probably one of the most difficult challenges
0:23:54 > 0:23:57we've done, cos we're looking here for precision.
0:23:57 > 0:23:59In order to do this challenge correctly,
0:23:59 > 0:24:01- they're going to have to cut a pattern.- Yes.
0:24:01 > 0:24:03From scratch, and that's not an easy thing to do.
0:24:03 > 0:24:04It's an interesting shape.
0:24:04 > 0:24:07They need to understand how to draw that shape,
0:24:07 > 0:24:10so that it fits snugly round the underarm
0:24:10 > 0:24:14but then you've got some fullness to ease it over the top of the shoulder.
0:24:17 > 0:24:20I am just working out the size.
0:24:20 > 0:24:24It might take a couple of attempts, but I'll get there.
0:24:24 > 0:24:27By taking the circumference and depth of the armhole,
0:24:27 > 0:24:30the sewers can draft a pattern to create a sleeve
0:24:30 > 0:24:32which is both a good fit and symmetrical.
0:24:32 > 0:24:35May I ask you, what kind of sleeve are you going to make?
0:24:35 > 0:24:39I'm going to have a little gathered top into a little puff.
0:24:39 > 0:24:40Oh, lovely!
0:24:40 > 0:24:44So, I'd like to make a little gathered puff sleeve,
0:24:44 > 0:24:47so I need to make the top of my sleeve a bit wider
0:24:47 > 0:24:50so I have enough room to gather at the top.
0:24:50 > 0:24:53And I also want to gather around this part of the arm.
0:24:53 > 0:24:57So, I'm just working out what the circumference of the actual arm is,
0:24:57 > 0:25:01and then I'm going to allow a few more inches for my gathering.
0:25:01 > 0:25:03This is going to be sort of tucked
0:25:03 > 0:25:07to create fullness just around the head of the sleeve.
0:25:07 > 0:25:10I'm always doing crazy little things with sleeves,
0:25:10 > 0:25:12like all this, and funny little things.
0:25:12 > 0:25:15I hardly ever do just like a standard set-in sleeve.
0:25:15 > 0:25:19Lynda is the only one attempting sleeves with no gathers.
0:25:19 > 0:25:22That's the sleeve that will set in to the armhole.
0:25:22 > 0:25:25And that's the bit that's difficult, I would think, to get right.
0:25:25 > 0:25:29Her sleeves will have to sit smooth and flat against the shoulder seam,
0:25:29 > 0:25:32so it's crucial she takes accurate measurements
0:25:32 > 0:25:33What kind of sleeve are you doing?
0:25:33 > 0:25:37I'm thinking, down and then either into a cuff, if I've got time,
0:25:37 > 0:25:40or it'll be a band and a loop and button.
0:25:40 > 0:25:41Did you draw a pattern?
0:25:41 > 0:25:43Yes, ish.
0:25:43 > 0:25:45Let me have a look at it.
0:25:45 > 0:25:47I think it might be too big up there.
0:25:47 > 0:25:50The thing is, the problem for me is, I'm not a measurer.
0:25:50 > 0:25:52I do everything by looking.
0:25:52 > 0:25:55I know, but today you have to measure.
0:25:55 > 0:25:56Well, I have. Ish.
0:25:56 > 0:25:58Oh...
0:25:59 > 0:26:01Just going to look at some fabric.
0:26:01 > 0:26:03Once they've drafted their pattern,
0:26:03 > 0:26:06the sewers should choose an appropriate fabric.
0:26:11 > 0:26:15I need quite a stiff fabric for the look I'm going for with my sleeve.
0:26:15 > 0:26:17I need quite a bit of structure.
0:26:18 > 0:26:20Terrible, isn't it? Trying to choose.
0:26:23 > 0:26:25Trying not to offend Patrick.
0:26:25 > 0:26:27Trying to think of something that he's going to look at
0:26:27 > 0:26:29and not be, like, "Eurgh!"
0:26:29 > 0:26:30Decisions, decisions.
0:26:30 > 0:26:32Perhaps I ought to just leave that alone,
0:26:32 > 0:26:36cos I'd probably have to do some little French seams on that.
0:26:36 > 0:26:38I think I might do that...
0:26:38 > 0:26:40I'm not sure Patrick will approve of this.
0:26:42 > 0:26:44- Do- I- approve of it?
0:26:45 > 0:26:47I kind of approve of it.
0:26:47 > 0:26:51It's got enough crunchiness to gather,
0:26:51 > 0:26:56and enough body to hold the shape.
0:26:57 > 0:26:59I hope.
0:26:59 > 0:27:00Not sure, not sure, not sure.
0:27:03 > 0:27:05It's got a very obvious pattern...
0:27:07 > 0:27:09..so I've got to match that up.
0:27:13 > 0:27:14Let's go for it.
0:27:14 > 0:27:16Can't be dithering all day.
0:27:19 > 0:27:21It's a stripy fabric,
0:27:21 > 0:27:24so I am going to use those stripes to their advantage,
0:27:24 > 0:27:28by having them going horizontally on the sleeve.
0:27:32 > 0:27:34Satisfied she's cut out two identical sleeves,
0:27:34 > 0:27:38Chinelo moves onto fitting them into the armhole.
0:27:38 > 0:27:40I'm pinning the tucks along the top of the head of the sleeve,
0:27:40 > 0:27:44so I'm just trying to make sure they are perfectly symmetrical.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47Only God knows how many sleeves I've made in my lifetime!
0:27:47 > 0:27:48Some very unsuccessful ones.
0:27:49 > 0:27:52So, I'm just going to adjust my gathers.
0:27:52 > 0:27:55That way you can just feel round the sleeve
0:27:55 > 0:28:00and make sure your gathers are relatively even.
0:28:00 > 0:28:01I think because it's tailored
0:28:01 > 0:28:04I'm going to do a little pleat at the top.
0:28:04 > 0:28:06To achieve her straight sleeves,
0:28:06 > 0:28:10Lynda needs to make sure any gathering disappears.
0:28:10 > 0:28:12I've got a couple of gathers I don't want, there,
0:28:12 > 0:28:15so I'm going to have to try and ease those out.
0:28:15 > 0:28:16I'm not happy with those.
0:28:16 > 0:28:18Because they're neither here nor there.
0:28:18 > 0:28:19If you're going to have gathers,
0:28:19 > 0:28:22they should be proper gathers, or no gathers.
0:28:22 > 0:28:23I'm going to try to get those to no gathers.
0:28:23 > 0:28:25It's really awkward, this is.
0:28:28 > 0:28:30- Hello.- Hello, love.- How are you?
0:28:30 > 0:28:32I'll tell you when I've finished.
0:28:32 > 0:28:34- You've got to finish. - I've got to finish.
0:28:34 > 0:28:38I don't want to be alarming, but somebody is leaving tomorrow.
0:28:38 > 0:28:39Thanks(!)
0:28:39 > 0:28:40Just saying.
0:28:42 > 0:28:44Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.
0:28:44 > 0:28:45Really?!
0:28:45 > 0:28:47How do you all feel about that?
0:28:47 > 0:28:48Panic stricken.
0:28:51 > 0:28:53Ooh!
0:28:53 > 0:28:55Nearly sewed my finger as well.
0:28:55 > 0:28:58If I was doing it at home, I'd be tacking it and fussing about,
0:28:58 > 0:29:00but in here it's just like, "Brrrm!"
0:29:00 > 0:29:03It's the time that's the problem.
0:29:03 > 0:29:05It's not doing the task, it's the time.
0:29:10 > 0:29:12That's not too bad.
0:29:12 > 0:29:14Tamara, how are you doing?
0:29:14 > 0:29:15Panicking slightly.
0:29:15 > 0:29:18- What left have you got to do? - I'm doing some cuffs
0:29:18 > 0:29:20and I might have to reset in my little tuck as well,
0:29:20 > 0:29:21cos it's not perfect.
0:29:27 > 0:29:29Made cuffs lots of time.
0:29:29 > 0:29:31But not in a time like this.
0:29:31 > 0:29:33It's like, beat the clock!
0:29:33 > 0:29:35Sewers you have ten minutes.
0:29:42 > 0:29:45I genuinely can't be confident until Patrick's had his go.
0:29:45 > 0:29:46Honestly!
0:29:46 > 0:29:48I just need to hear what he has to say first,
0:29:48 > 0:29:50and then I'll smile or cry.
0:29:57 > 0:29:59I'm not happy with that, really.
0:29:59 > 0:30:00Come on, darling.
0:30:05 > 0:30:07It's not looking great.
0:30:07 > 0:30:09No, not pleased.
0:30:09 > 0:30:10They're not going to be happy.
0:30:10 > 0:30:1215 seconds.
0:30:12 > 0:30:14Ugh!
0:30:14 > 0:30:15Heather, I love you, but it's always you.
0:30:15 > 0:30:18- I know, of course it's always me... - And you walked away.
0:30:18 > 0:30:20- Don't touch it!- I-I-I... - OK, good, that's it!
0:30:20 > 0:30:23- I'm closing it.- We're done! - That's it. Good girl, Heather.
0:30:23 > 0:30:26The first time in Sewing Bee history...
0:30:26 > 0:30:29- Give me five! - ..I haven't had to shout at you.
0:30:29 > 0:30:30Well done, everybody.
0:30:30 > 0:30:32Please bring your mannequins up to the front
0:30:32 > 0:30:35and jumble them around. Come on.
0:30:35 > 0:30:40# I wish I was back in my baby's arms... #
0:30:40 > 0:30:43Four dresses transformed with sleeves -
0:30:43 > 0:30:47but which best demonstrate precision and symmetry?
0:30:47 > 0:30:48Interesting.
0:30:48 > 0:30:50Go and have a good old nosey.
0:30:54 > 0:30:55It's a shame...
0:30:55 > 0:30:58- It just seems to be pulling it out of...- Exactly.- ..shape a bit.
0:30:58 > 0:31:01This one's really lovely and this one's pulling out of shape.
0:31:01 > 0:31:03Cuffs are neatly done.
0:31:03 > 0:31:06We've got quite an uneven one here, though.
0:31:06 > 0:31:09- Buttonhole the wrong way.- Yes.
0:31:09 > 0:31:13Buttonholes need to run round the cuff and not up and down the side.
0:31:20 > 0:31:22For me, the left sleeve looks a little longer.
0:31:24 > 0:31:25Quarter of an inch.
0:31:25 > 0:31:29However, both of these rows of pattern on both of the sleeves
0:31:29 > 0:31:32are hanging absolutely vertically.
0:31:32 > 0:31:35Both of these shoulder lines are very smooth.
0:31:35 > 0:31:38- Yeah. No distortion at all to the front.- No distortion.
0:31:43 > 0:31:49Just one little pleat in the shoulder, but very evenly done.
0:31:49 > 0:31:53And some really nice top stitching around the cuffs.
0:31:53 > 0:31:55And a very neat little opening.
0:31:55 > 0:31:58- But it's tipping...- The pitch of the sleeve is slightly forward.
0:31:58 > 0:31:59- It's tipping forward, yes.- Yep.
0:32:08 > 0:32:11A very different choice of fabric, but I like it.
0:32:11 > 0:32:12And the balance on the patterns -
0:32:12 > 0:32:15- look at the pattern on the back. - Yeah.
0:32:15 > 0:32:20This pink stripe running right down the centre of that sleeve
0:32:20 > 0:32:23perfectly vertically, tucked into that pleat at the top.
0:32:23 > 0:32:26I've got exactly the same on this side.
0:32:26 > 0:32:29We've got a very smooth back armhole.
0:32:29 > 0:32:32Very, very well executed
0:32:32 > 0:32:34Patrick and May reorder the dresses
0:32:34 > 0:32:37to decide whose sleeves are the best.
0:32:37 > 0:32:39There's things that are bothering me.
0:32:39 > 0:32:42We're going to have to pick that out.
0:32:42 > 0:32:46- If we're nitpicking, this one curves a bit more forward.- Move them around.
0:32:46 > 0:32:47OK.
0:32:47 > 0:32:48So, that's your order.
0:32:48 > 0:32:50Yes.
0:32:50 > 0:32:53In fourth place, come forward - who created this?
0:32:56 > 0:32:57That's life.
0:32:57 > 0:33:00- Thank you.- Thanks, Lynda.
0:33:00 > 0:33:04Please could the creator of the dress in third place come forward?
0:33:06 > 0:33:08A lot of processes in there.
0:33:08 > 0:33:09Thank you.
0:33:10 > 0:33:14Please could the master who created the dress in second place
0:33:14 > 0:33:16come and get her?
0:33:17 > 0:33:20Really very professional-level execution.
0:33:20 > 0:33:22Thanks very much, thank you.
0:33:22 > 0:33:26And that means in first place it's Chinelo!
0:33:26 > 0:33:28APPLAUSE
0:33:29 > 0:33:34It's a really well-thought through, well-executed alteration.
0:33:34 > 0:33:36- Very well done.- Are you happy? - I am very happy.
0:33:36 > 0:33:40Especially after challenge one, when he was so mean...
0:33:40 > 0:33:42- Thank you, Patrick(!) - ..about your tulip skirt.
0:33:42 > 0:33:45She finds you very scary, you have to be nicer.
0:33:45 > 0:33:46Well done, Chinelo! Well done.
0:33:48 > 0:33:52Obviously tomorrow's still very, very important,
0:33:52 > 0:33:55but I'll definitely be able to sleep better tonight
0:33:55 > 0:33:58knowing that I have come first in this challenge.
0:33:58 > 0:34:01I'm feeling a little bit deflated, but the only way is up.
0:34:01 > 0:34:06I am nearly, nearly there, I need to just get my head down tomorrow,
0:34:06 > 0:34:09because I want that ticket to finals, please.
0:34:10 > 0:34:14I'm really disappointed to come last, and I think I'm in trouble.
0:34:18 > 0:34:21- # Good morning - Good morning
0:34:21 > 0:34:23# We've talked the whole night through
0:34:23 > 0:34:26- # Good morning... # - Day two, and our sewers' last chance
0:34:26 > 0:34:29to secure themselves a place in next week's final.
0:34:29 > 0:34:32Lynda gave us a fantastic draped dress,
0:34:32 > 0:34:35and then let herself down with the sleeves.
0:34:35 > 0:34:36Lynda yo-yos.
0:34:36 > 0:34:39Sometimes she's at the top, sometimes she's at the bottom.
0:34:39 > 0:34:41Heather's done well. She's technically competent,
0:34:41 > 0:34:43she just needs to make sure she pushes herself enough.
0:34:43 > 0:34:48And you loved Chinelo's sleeves - but you didn't like her drapery.
0:34:48 > 0:34:50I wasn't a big fan of it, personally. May liked it.
0:34:50 > 0:34:53I mean, I think Tamara is somewhere in the middle.
0:34:53 > 0:34:56This last challenge is an incredibly complicated challenge,
0:34:56 > 0:34:59and I think who goes home will entirely hinge on
0:34:59 > 0:35:03who does well in this challenge we've got here before us.
0:35:03 > 0:35:06As usual, the sewers will produce a made-to-measure garment
0:35:06 > 0:35:08but instead of fitting it for a model,
0:35:08 > 0:35:10they'll be making it to fit themselves.
0:35:13 > 0:35:16For the final challenge,
0:35:16 > 0:35:18the judges would love to see you
0:35:18 > 0:35:21recreate a favourite item of clothing.
0:35:21 > 0:35:23It can be something you've bought in a shop,
0:35:23 > 0:35:26it could be something that you have made before,
0:35:26 > 0:35:28they just want to see how you replicate it.
0:35:28 > 0:35:30You've got six and a half hours.
0:35:30 > 0:35:33Your time starts now.
0:35:33 > 0:35:37The sewers have had a chance to practise this challenge at home.
0:35:37 > 0:35:40They've brought in their own fabric but as it's "no-pattern week",
0:35:40 > 0:35:42they only have their favourite garment to make a copy from.
0:35:42 > 0:35:44Where's my pin dog?
0:35:44 > 0:35:45SHE SIGHS
0:35:45 > 0:35:49And the garments they've brought in couldn't be more diverse.
0:35:49 > 0:35:51This is the dress I'm making.
0:35:51 > 0:35:53I call it my Mary Poppins dress
0:35:53 > 0:35:58because these silhouettes remind me of Mary Poppins.
0:35:58 > 0:36:02Lynda's wrap-style dress has long sleeves and a pleated skirt.
0:36:02 > 0:36:05She's going to replicate it in a firm stretch fabric.
0:36:05 > 0:36:08I'm a nursery nurse so I'm Mary Poppins
0:36:08 > 0:36:11and my great-great aunt was a nanny.
0:36:11 > 0:36:13And you can see from the fashion there,
0:36:13 > 0:36:15she is very Mary Poppins-ish.
0:36:15 > 0:36:18This is auntie Alwin in the roaring '20s.
0:36:18 > 0:36:20She was actually a nanny as well
0:36:20 > 0:36:23and I can see where I get my skinny legs from now.
0:36:26 > 0:36:28It's one of my old favourite dresses.
0:36:28 > 0:36:31My husband and I hosted a Valentine's event in our church,
0:36:31 > 0:36:34and this is what I wore to the very first one that we did.
0:36:34 > 0:36:37Chinelo's strapless party dress has a boned bodice
0:36:37 > 0:36:40and is decorated with 42 strips of gathered organza.
0:36:40 > 0:36:42She'll reproduce it with flat strips
0:36:42 > 0:36:46which she plans to gradiate in a different colour.
0:36:46 > 0:36:48- So, I'm going to be using a cotton lining...- OK.
0:36:48 > 0:36:51..and I've got all these strips of organza to sew on to this.
0:36:51 > 0:36:54- These are all sewn on in individual pieces?- Individual pieces, yes.
0:36:54 > 0:36:56- You're absolutely crazy. - CHINELO LAUGHS
0:36:56 > 0:36:58But it looks amazing.
0:36:59 > 0:37:02- TAMARA:- So, what I'm copying is...
0:37:02 > 0:37:05the first yoga outfit I treated myself to
0:37:05 > 0:37:08when I officially became a yoga teacher.
0:37:08 > 0:37:11Tamara's yoga outfit is made up 22 sections
0:37:11 > 0:37:15and her copy will feature different types of contrasting stretch fabric.
0:37:15 > 0:37:20I've sketched out the panels in my vest and my leggings
0:37:20 > 0:37:22and I've alphabetised them.
0:37:22 > 0:37:23It's like a jigsaw puzzle
0:37:23 > 0:37:26Why didn't you just choose something easy?
0:37:26 > 0:37:29- I don't play it safe, Claudia. - No, I know. Crazy, but OK.
0:37:30 > 0:37:33It's a silk satin dress.
0:37:33 > 0:37:36Just a plain little shift dress.
0:37:36 > 0:37:40It's a dress that I wore for an exhibition
0:37:40 > 0:37:42when I was painting in Sweden
0:37:42 > 0:37:45so it does have some nice memories for me.
0:37:45 > 0:37:49Heather's simple shift dress has darts at the front and back.
0:37:49 > 0:37:51She'll remake it in a cream satin.
0:37:51 > 0:37:56It's been a tiny little bit tight and I will make sure
0:37:56 > 0:37:59there's a little bit of room for manoeuvre in this one.
0:38:03 > 0:38:05Why have you asked them to do this challenge?
0:38:05 > 0:38:09I think it's demonstrating a really useful set of skills -
0:38:09 > 0:38:12demonstrating how to take a pattern from something
0:38:12 > 0:38:15but also lots of people have an item in the wardrobe
0:38:15 > 0:38:18that they absolutely love, but it can be getting old,
0:38:18 > 0:38:21and how wonderful to be able to recreate that garment?
0:38:21 > 0:38:24But this is the semifinal. Isn't this just copying?
0:38:24 > 0:38:26I mean, how difficult is it?
0:38:26 > 0:38:28It's substantially difficult.
0:38:28 > 0:38:30It's not just tracing the outline of a piece of fabric,
0:38:30 > 0:38:32it's inserting the darts,
0:38:32 > 0:38:34it's inserting whatever tucks and pleats are in there,
0:38:34 > 0:38:37it's understanding how the geometry all works.
0:38:37 > 0:38:40There are several methods to ensure an accurate copy
0:38:40 > 0:38:43and each sewer is taking a different approach.
0:38:43 > 0:38:48Tamara is making a pattern from a cheap micro fibre cloth.
0:38:48 > 0:38:51So, I want something that's going to stretch a little
0:38:51 > 0:38:54and be a little bit more like fabric so I'm going to place this on top of
0:38:54 > 0:38:57my pieces and then I'm going to feel for the seam
0:38:57 > 0:38:59and draw round those shapes.
0:38:59 > 0:39:04I've measured the waist and then the hem of the skirt
0:39:04 > 0:39:08so I've basically got to transfer the measurements onto the paper.
0:39:08 > 0:39:13I've got this bit of fabric, which is a bit of old curtaining stuff
0:39:13 > 0:39:15and I thought the best way to do it
0:39:15 > 0:39:20is to make those darts in a piece of fabric first
0:39:20 > 0:39:24and then lay that back down and then draw around my model
0:39:24 > 0:39:26so when I open it up,
0:39:26 > 0:39:27I've got the true shape.
0:39:27 > 0:39:31A piece of what would've originally been the pattern
0:39:31 > 0:39:34so you can see how different the shape is...
0:39:34 > 0:39:37of the bust darts once it's let out.
0:39:38 > 0:39:42I've used the original to draw that on the fabric.
0:39:42 > 0:39:46For the skirt, because it's got pleats in it,
0:39:46 > 0:39:50what I do is measure those and I've allowed that for the fabrics.
0:39:50 > 0:39:53That's my pattern.
0:39:53 > 0:39:55As you can see, it's not conventional.
0:39:55 > 0:39:57It's my way.
0:40:00 > 0:40:03Once they're satisfied with their patterns,
0:40:03 > 0:40:05cutting out the new fabric can begin.
0:40:05 > 0:40:08I'll cut out the skirt using the pattern I've just made
0:40:08 > 0:40:10and I'll put my markings on it
0:40:10 > 0:40:13where the organza strips are going to go onto it.
0:40:15 > 0:40:19- A many-pieced outfit. Is that this one here?- Yes.
0:40:19 > 0:40:20How have you dealt with things like
0:40:20 > 0:40:22the differential stretch in the fabric?
0:40:22 > 0:40:24I'm making sure that when I place the pieces on the fabric,
0:40:24 > 0:40:27they're going to be stretching in the right way.
0:40:27 > 0:40:29- You've got quite a complex shape here, haven't you?- Mm-hm.
0:40:29 > 0:40:32Just think about how you want the pieces to go together -
0:40:32 > 0:40:35- the right way up in the right order. - Yes, I do.
0:40:35 > 0:40:38- Right, crack on.- Yes, you've got quite a lot of work to do.
0:40:38 > 0:40:41- Thanks.- I'm looking forward to seeing it.- Thank you.
0:40:44 > 0:40:50Well, everybody else is doing incredibly complicated stuff.
0:40:50 > 0:40:55Obviously, now, I'm worrying that this is going to be too simple
0:40:55 > 0:40:58but this is it.
0:41:06 > 0:41:08LYNDA SIGHS
0:41:08 > 0:41:09OK.
0:41:11 > 0:41:13I don't have enough fabric.
0:41:14 > 0:41:17I just cut it and I thought
0:41:17 > 0:41:19there's not enough hanging over the table.
0:41:21 > 0:41:22I feel sick.
0:41:22 > 0:41:25My daughters are going to kill me.
0:41:29 > 0:41:32Would it help if you were able to get some more fabric from the haberdashery?
0:41:32 > 0:41:35It would really, really help. I'm going to cry.
0:41:35 > 0:41:38- Let's not waste any more time.- No. - Thank you.
0:41:38 > 0:41:39Go and have a look in the haberdashery.
0:41:39 > 0:41:42- Find yourself some fabric. - Thank you so much.
0:41:48 > 0:41:51I'm looking for stretch fabric.
0:41:59 > 0:42:02I'm just so happy to have anything.
0:42:04 > 0:42:07I could cry now with relief.
0:42:08 > 0:42:11I think Lynda's all right. Initial panic over.
0:42:11 > 0:42:13The only thing that slightly concerns me,
0:42:13 > 0:42:14she's got quite a mobile fabric.
0:42:14 > 0:42:16Yes, the original garment was in stretch.
0:42:16 > 0:42:19However, this stretch is slightly different.
0:42:19 > 0:42:20It's a softer fabric so..
0:42:22 > 0:42:24Heather's is the simplest garment in the room.
0:42:24 > 0:42:27The execution and the finish needs to be perfect
0:42:27 > 0:42:29and the fit needs to be perfect as well.
0:42:29 > 0:42:31Chinelo has given herself an awful lot to do.
0:42:31 > 0:42:33She's got a lot to cut out,
0:42:33 > 0:42:34she's had a lot of pattern pieces to do
0:42:34 > 0:42:37she's got an awful lot of sewing to put this garment together.
0:42:37 > 0:42:40They're really chalk and cheese, those two.
0:42:40 > 0:42:42Tamara's is quite a complicated pattern.
0:42:42 > 0:42:45There are a lot of pieces that actually look quite similar.
0:42:45 > 0:42:47She's got to be very careful about how she marks them
0:42:47 > 0:42:50so she knows which one is which and it's all in stretch.
0:42:50 > 0:42:52I think she's given herself a lot to do.
0:42:52 > 0:42:56I'm now piecing together my vest top.
0:42:56 > 0:43:01My pattern pieces will fit better if I attach the side pieces first
0:43:01 > 0:43:03and then I'll attach them to the middle piece.
0:43:03 > 0:43:08I'm just making doubly sure that all the lines run into each other.
0:43:09 > 0:43:13Three hours remain to finish constructing their favourite garment.
0:43:13 > 0:43:19I've got to sew the strips of organza on and once I've done that,
0:43:19 > 0:43:21I can start constructing my dress.
0:43:21 > 0:43:27I have made the same shape of dress in two hours at home.
0:43:27 > 0:43:30I'm giving myself an hour to sew those strips on.
0:43:31 > 0:43:35TAMARA: I have my overlocker for the interior seams
0:43:35 > 0:43:37and it's just a matter of making sure
0:43:37 > 0:43:39everything is in line with each other.
0:43:41 > 0:43:42Now, I'm going to do my pleats
0:43:42 > 0:43:45and we know what Patrick's like with a tape measure
0:43:45 > 0:43:47so I'm using my tape measure to measure them carefully
0:43:47 > 0:43:49before I put them under the machine.
0:43:49 > 0:43:52I'm actually scared now of this.
0:43:52 > 0:43:55The whole fabric thing has put me right off.
0:43:55 > 0:43:57Really unsettled me altogether.
0:43:59 > 0:44:02I'm endeavouring to put in an invisible zip.
0:44:02 > 0:44:08I'm going for absolute accuracy and perfect fit.
0:44:08 > 0:44:11If it isn't, I'm going to be ripped to shreds
0:44:11 > 0:44:15because my dress is so simple.
0:44:15 > 0:44:18While Heather reaches the final stages of her dress,
0:44:18 > 0:44:20Chinelo plans more.
0:44:20 > 0:44:22Looks like this is frill corner.
0:44:22 > 0:44:24This is definitely frill corner at the moment.
0:44:24 > 0:44:28What I'd done was I'd sewn on the first row,
0:44:28 > 0:44:31and I went to put the second row on there.
0:44:31 > 0:44:34But I didn't quite like the way the overlay was,
0:44:34 > 0:44:37so I'm adding another row to the centre.
0:44:37 > 0:44:40- Have you got the time? - Em... I reckon I do.
0:44:40 > 0:44:43It's cos we need to see your construction of your dress.
0:44:43 > 0:44:45Yeah. Don't worry.
0:44:48 > 0:44:50May's worried about time.
0:44:51 > 0:44:56Yeah, it's a lot of sewing to do but I'll do it.
0:45:00 > 0:45:03I'm just doing the back seam here...
0:45:03 > 0:45:08and the last bit just beyond the zip is always a difficult bit.
0:45:09 > 0:45:12So, how many more little bits have you got to put together now?
0:45:12 > 0:45:15I have one there, one there, one there, one there.
0:45:15 > 0:45:17So you're over-locking as you go?
0:45:17 > 0:45:18Yep, so it's nice and neat
0:45:18 > 0:45:20and then depending on how much time I've got left,
0:45:20 > 0:45:23- I would like to topstitch with a zigzag.- Yes.
0:45:34 > 0:45:37- LYNDA:- I'm not enjoying this at all.
0:45:37 > 0:45:39This fabric is nothing like the fabric I wanted to use,
0:45:39 > 0:45:41it's far more stretchy.
0:45:41 > 0:45:43It's the semifinal.
0:45:43 > 0:45:47They're going to be looking for perfection and this isn't it.
0:45:47 > 0:45:49How much do you want to make the final?
0:45:49 > 0:45:53Oh, I would love to make the final, it would be so exciting.
0:45:53 > 0:45:56Sad to leave at this stage, I think, for all of you.
0:45:56 > 0:45:58Yeah, it would. Exactly.
0:45:58 > 0:46:01- I'm going to have a word and say... - All of us can stay.
0:46:01 > 0:46:02Do you know what I mean?
0:46:02 > 0:46:05Let's bring back Dave. Let's phone Jenni.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08- Let's get Julie in.- Let's get them all back.- Nobody should leave.
0:46:14 > 0:46:15One hour left.
0:46:18 > 0:46:21I'm just seeing how the arms fit.
0:46:21 > 0:46:24They could do with taking a little bit away.
0:46:24 > 0:46:28I'm just looking at that bit there.
0:46:28 > 0:46:30I just still want that in, just a fraction.
0:46:31 > 0:46:35And I want that in there, just there, see?
0:46:35 > 0:46:37I want to check that it fits before I put the facings on.
0:46:37 > 0:46:40OK. That's quite hoo-hoo.
0:46:40 > 0:46:42I don't think it'll be too low.
0:46:42 > 0:46:44You're going to put it on, are you?
0:46:44 > 0:46:47But I'm bigger than you, Claudia.
0:46:47 > 0:46:50What statement are you making with this dress?
0:46:50 > 0:46:52It's not like that on me, honestly.
0:46:53 > 0:46:55I'm nearly finished with my skirt.
0:46:55 > 0:46:57I've just got three of the lines to go
0:46:57 > 0:47:00but I really just want to do my bodice now.
0:47:01 > 0:47:05I haven't got much time to finish. Time is always a concern.
0:47:07 > 0:47:10Sewers, you have 45 minutes.
0:47:10 > 0:47:1245 minutes.
0:47:16 > 0:47:20You look intently focused on what you're doing.
0:47:20 > 0:47:21- I am.- How are you getting along?
0:47:21 > 0:47:23I had to change my plan a little bit,
0:47:23 > 0:47:26where I was going to put the organza on the bodice, topped bodice,
0:47:26 > 0:47:29I'm going to do that so it's only just going to be on the skirt now.
0:47:29 > 0:47:31Just a plain top but you've got it all round...?
0:47:31 > 0:47:32I've got it on the skirt, yeah.
0:47:32 > 0:47:35- OK, so not a massive change. - No, not a massive change but
0:47:35 > 0:47:38just making sure I have a finished garment.
0:47:38 > 0:47:42- TAMARA:- I have overlocked the seam of my leggings
0:47:42 > 0:47:46and now I'm going to finish it off by stitching over the top.
0:47:49 > 0:47:50It is very quiet in there, isn't it?
0:47:50 > 0:47:52I mean it's been very quiet all day.
0:47:52 > 0:47:54I think, finally, they've realised
0:47:54 > 0:47:56that this is the serious end of the competition
0:47:56 > 0:48:00and they've got half an hour left to see themselves into the final.
0:48:00 > 0:48:03I'm not happy with the crossover,
0:48:03 > 0:48:05so I'm undoing it and redoing it.
0:48:05 > 0:48:09It's really difficult with the fabric to keep everything straight.
0:48:09 > 0:48:11It's not sitting right in the front.
0:48:11 > 0:48:14Where you see the most, it's sort of puckered there.
0:48:14 > 0:48:16Sewers, you have ten minutes left.
0:48:16 > 0:48:18Terrific.
0:48:18 > 0:48:19SHE CHUCKLES
0:48:23 > 0:48:26What did I do with my needle?
0:48:29 > 0:48:31This isn't rolling my hem.
0:48:35 > 0:48:39- LYNDA:- The seam still isn't perfect, I must go over that bit again.
0:48:39 > 0:48:40SHE SIGHS
0:48:40 > 0:48:42It's just a total nightmare today.
0:48:48 > 0:48:50Oh, I can't believe I've just done that.
0:48:50 > 0:48:53That was perfect and I've just slipped.
0:48:55 > 0:48:59I don't want to panic everyone but we've got to get dressed.
0:49:00 > 0:49:02I hope I've sorted it.
0:49:03 > 0:49:05- Heather?- Mm-hm?
0:49:05 > 0:49:06- Let's go.- OK.
0:49:09 > 0:49:13Tamara, get yoga'd up. Let's do downward dog.
0:49:14 > 0:49:16It's still not right.
0:49:20 > 0:49:22That's lovely
0:49:22 > 0:49:26OK, that's it. Time is up.
0:49:26 > 0:49:27You are in your favourite clothes.
0:49:27 > 0:49:31Please come and stand by your stations.
0:49:34 > 0:49:36In just six and a half hours,
0:49:36 > 0:49:39the semifinalists have made a brand-new copy
0:49:39 > 0:49:41of an old garment.
0:49:41 > 0:49:44- HEATHER:- I don't think I have done enough to impress the judges, no.
0:49:44 > 0:49:46I think it's too simple.
0:49:46 > 0:49:49It's a mess. It's not a semifinal garment.
0:49:49 > 0:49:51My daughters will be gutted.
0:49:51 > 0:49:55There is nothing I can do, just hope really.
0:49:55 > 0:49:59Really, really hope I've done enough to stay in for the final
0:49:59 > 0:50:01but you just don't know.
0:50:19 > 0:50:22'So what will May and Patrick make of their reproductions,
0:50:22 > 0:50:26'before deciding which three will be entering the final?'
0:50:26 > 0:50:32Chinelo, please come forward with both your original and the new.
0:50:42 > 0:50:44I think it's nicely balanced.
0:50:44 > 0:50:47The darts all look like they're sitting in the right place.
0:50:47 > 0:50:50A little uneven in some of the sewing
0:50:50 > 0:50:52but I think the way that you've graded it through the skirt
0:50:52 > 0:50:55is really elegant and I think works extremely well.
0:50:55 > 0:51:00I think the way in which you have attached layers is very good
0:51:00 > 0:51:05because you had to do it very evenly and it's worked very well.
0:51:05 > 0:51:07Comparing it with the original,
0:51:07 > 0:51:08I think I prefer this one.
0:51:08 > 0:51:10- Oh, thank you.- It's really lovely.
0:51:10 > 0:51:13Yeah, I think what you've done is update it
0:51:13 > 0:51:15and actually make it a little more refined
0:51:15 > 0:51:18and a much more stunning piece of clothing. Very well done.
0:51:18 > 0:51:19Thank you.
0:51:34 > 0:51:36I have to say for me,
0:51:36 > 0:51:39I find the fit a tiny bit disappointing
0:51:39 > 0:51:41because it's quite tight round your hips
0:51:41 > 0:51:46and, across the back, we've got quite a bit of wrinkling.
0:51:46 > 0:51:50I know you took some in, and perhaps too much on the hips,
0:51:50 > 0:51:52so it's not sliding down your body.
0:51:52 > 0:51:54It just looks too long in the back bodice for me.
0:51:54 > 0:51:57Overall, I think there's a lovely shape to it.
0:51:57 > 0:51:59Needs a fraction off on the shoulder.
0:51:59 > 0:52:02Yeah, we've got a bit where it's not sitting there.
0:52:02 > 0:52:05But if we look at what you started with,
0:52:05 > 0:52:08it's very, very clear that you've done an extremely accurate job
0:52:08 > 0:52:11of translating that into a new pattern.
0:52:11 > 0:52:13Thank you.
0:52:30 > 0:52:32You had a nightmare of a day, didn't you?
0:52:32 > 0:52:34I did, I did indeed.
0:52:34 > 0:52:36Can you just drop your hands for me?
0:52:36 > 0:52:38- Do I have to?- Yes, you do.
0:52:39 > 0:52:42The waistline is going for a bit of a walk.
0:52:42 > 0:52:44Let's talk about the pleats.
0:52:44 > 0:52:45I measured them.
0:52:45 > 0:52:46Yeah, I was going to say,
0:52:46 > 0:52:51the pleats look terrific, very even and very well spaced.
0:52:51 > 0:52:53So, I think it's clear you've put a lot of effort into those
0:52:53 > 0:52:55and you've managed those very well.
0:52:55 > 0:52:59- And you've matched your pattern on your seams.- That's right.
0:52:59 > 0:53:01However, sadly,
0:53:01 > 0:53:03they're tilting forward
0:53:03 > 0:53:07so I think this is an issue with the balance of front and back.
0:53:21 > 0:53:25Well, I think this outfit of yours works incredibly well.
0:53:25 > 0:53:27A multi-panelled garment.
0:53:27 > 0:53:28Yeah, not just multipanels
0:53:28 > 0:53:31but multipanels in multiple different fabrics
0:53:31 > 0:53:36with entirely different properties of stretch and weight.
0:53:36 > 0:53:38This is a complicated pattern.
0:53:38 > 0:53:41I mean this should be sitting right on the hip and it is.
0:53:41 > 0:53:45This seam on the legging is designed to sit just underneath the kneecap
0:53:45 > 0:53:46and it does that.
0:53:46 > 0:53:49You know, your shoulder seam is bang on the centre of your shoulder.
0:53:49 > 0:53:52And I do like some of the techniques you have used.
0:53:52 > 0:53:55You have used this three-step zigzag, this top-stitching.
0:53:55 > 0:53:57Your leggings are a really good fit.
0:53:57 > 0:53:59Really good.
0:54:01 > 0:54:04Girls, a huge well done. That was incredibly hard.
0:54:04 > 0:54:07It's time for you to have a break.
0:54:07 > 0:54:11When you come back in the room, the judges will reveal
0:54:11 > 0:54:13who WON'T be coming back for the final.
0:54:15 > 0:54:16I'm not ready to leave.
0:54:16 > 0:54:19I'm not ready to call my husband and say I'm coming home.
0:54:19 > 0:54:20I just don't want to go yet.
0:54:20 > 0:54:23'I had no idea I'd get as far as this,'
0:54:23 > 0:54:26but to have that chance of going to the final
0:54:26 > 0:54:27is just the best thing ever.
0:54:27 > 0:54:32I really, really hope that I have done enough to get through -
0:54:32 > 0:54:33I really, really do.
0:54:38 > 0:54:40I really, really want to be in the final.
0:54:43 > 0:54:45I think it's horrible to leave in week one.
0:54:45 > 0:54:48I think it's probably worse to leave in the semifinal
0:54:48 > 0:54:51because you've got so close. What's going on in your head?
0:54:51 > 0:54:54They've all varied from challenge to challenge.
0:54:54 > 0:54:56So we have to consider all sorts of things.
0:54:56 > 0:54:58- You weren't mad for Heather's fit. - I wasn't at all.
0:54:58 > 0:55:02I didn't think the back of Heather's dress fitted at all well.
0:55:02 > 0:55:05I felt it was the simplest garment - it should have been the most perfect.
0:55:05 > 0:55:06Let's talk about Lynda's.
0:55:06 > 0:55:09We all noticed immediately that Lynda made a big
0:55:09 > 0:55:12mistake in the construction of this dress.
0:55:12 > 0:55:14Lynda can be terribly inconsistent.
0:55:14 > 0:55:17Cos she won the first challenge - you two went nuts for that.
0:55:17 > 0:55:20Yes, that was very good. The first two challenges,
0:55:20 > 0:55:25Tamara didn't do very well, and yet she's made a brilliant yoga outfit.
0:55:25 > 0:55:29Well, I will leave you two, cos you haven't made a decision either way.
0:55:29 > 0:55:33- We just need to have a final chat. - OK.
0:55:44 > 0:55:49First of all, enormous well done. Let's do the good bit first.
0:55:49 > 0:55:53This week, garment of the week is...
0:55:55 > 0:55:57SHE SQUEALS
0:55:57 > 0:56:01Tremendous pattern-cutting skills,
0:56:01 > 0:56:03and excellent execution on a really tricky fabric.
0:56:03 > 0:56:06Huge well done. Garment of the week in the semifinal.
0:56:08 > 0:56:12Now, here's the hideous bit. Somebody has to go.
0:56:17 > 0:56:21So, the person leaving the Sewing Bee is...
0:56:28 > 0:56:30It's Lynda.
0:56:32 > 0:56:34- Sorry.- I thought it was me.
0:56:34 > 0:56:38- Oh, I'm sorry.- Thank you so much.
0:56:38 > 0:56:41Thank you. Oh, it's worth going!
0:56:41 > 0:56:44'I do feel more confident now.'
0:56:44 > 0:56:46My son-in-law actually said to me,
0:56:46 > 0:56:48when I said I was coming on the programme,
0:56:48 > 0:56:52"Are you any good, then, at sewing?" I said, "I don't know, to be honest,
0:56:52 > 0:56:54"we're about to find out."
0:56:54 > 0:56:55It's been a pleasure.
0:56:55 > 0:56:59And I've loved it - it's been an experience of a lifetime.
0:56:59 > 0:57:03Even when times got tough I stuck it out - I'm proud of myself for that.
0:57:08 > 0:57:09You're perfect.
0:57:12 > 0:57:15'I'm really, really sad that Lynda's gone.'
0:57:15 > 0:57:20She's been absolutely the life and soul of our little group.
0:57:20 > 0:57:23'She has had us all in stitches all the time.'
0:57:23 > 0:57:25Yeah, of course we're going to miss her.
0:57:25 > 0:57:29'I got garment of the week - really, really chuffed.'
0:57:29 > 0:57:32I seriously worked my socks off to get that perfect.
0:57:32 > 0:57:35'I managed to pull it out the bag last minute.'
0:57:35 > 0:57:37If can do it now, I can do it next week.
0:57:39 > 0:57:42'Winning is definitely in reach now, so I really, really, really need'
0:57:42 > 0:57:45to go home and practise - practise my little heart out,
0:57:45 > 0:57:50'just come back fighting for that Great British Sewing Bee title,
0:57:50 > 0:57:52cos I want to win!
0:57:52 > 0:57:54Mwah-ha-ha!
0:57:57 > 0:57:59At the final Sewing Bee...
0:57:59 > 0:58:03I've given myself a lot of work to do, but it's the final -
0:58:03 > 0:58:05what else to do?
0:58:05 > 0:58:08..there can only be one winner, and the judges demand couture.
0:58:08 > 0:58:12What we're testing this week is the finishing skills
0:58:12 > 0:58:14that take a well-assembled garment
0:58:14 > 0:58:17and turn it into a beautiful piece of sewing.
0:58:17 > 0:58:20But will the pressure prove too much for some?
0:58:21 > 0:58:24I just want this to be over now, to be honest.
0:58:24 > 0:58:26And who will hold their nerve
0:58:26 > 0:58:29to be crowned Britain's best amateur sewer?
0:58:29 > 0:58:31I'm going hell for leather.
0:58:31 > 0:58:33I can't not finish this one.
0:58:33 > 0:58:35Halleluiah!
0:58:38 > 0:58:40If you'd like to take up your own sewing projects
0:58:40 > 0:58:43inspired by the series, go to: