0:00:02 > 0:00:05We are back. We have ten brilliant home sewers who are ready
0:00:05 > 0:00:07to take their hobby to new heights.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09We have a brand-new sewing room
0:00:09 > 0:00:11and a beautiful haberdashery
0:00:11 > 0:00:13full of every conceivable fabric.
0:00:13 > 0:00:15We also have these mannequins,
0:00:15 > 0:00:17who are just waiting - they're excited -
0:00:17 > 0:00:21about being adorned with the trickiest garments yet.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26Britain's army of home sewers grows bigger every year.
0:00:26 > 0:00:27Sewing means everything to me.
0:00:27 > 0:00:29I can't imagine a life without it.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32I'd be naked, apart from anything else!
0:00:32 > 0:00:34- Making it to the sewing room... - Oh!
0:00:34 > 0:00:36..has never been harder.
0:00:36 > 0:00:38I can't believe I'm here. It's so exciting.
0:00:38 > 0:00:40It was one of my life goals.
0:00:40 > 0:00:41I'd like to think I can bring
0:00:41 > 0:00:44a little bit of something different to the sewing room.
0:00:44 > 0:00:46Each week, our passionate amateurs
0:00:46 > 0:00:49will be asked to make three beautiful garments.
0:00:49 > 0:00:53I am a perfectionist. It could be my downfall. Hope not.
0:00:53 > 0:00:57Every stitch will be scrutinised by Savile Row's Patrick Grant.
0:00:57 > 0:00:58In my world, it's all about precision...
0:00:58 > 0:01:01the finest materials, the most beautiful execution...
0:01:01 > 0:01:03That's what I want to see from our sewers.
0:01:03 > 0:01:05And from the world of fashion,
0:01:05 > 0:01:07film costume maker and senior lecturer
0:01:07 > 0:01:11at the world-renowned Central Saint Martins School of Fashion,
0:01:11 > 0:01:12Esme Young.
0:01:12 > 0:01:13I am really looking forward to this.
0:01:13 > 0:01:15What I am looking for from the perfect sewer
0:01:15 > 0:01:17is a range of techniques...
0:01:17 > 0:01:19and their imagination and their individuality
0:01:19 > 0:01:21coming out in the garments.
0:01:21 > 0:01:24I'll probably find it quite hard not to say what I think.
0:01:24 > 0:01:26The competition will begin...
0:01:26 > 0:01:28Must remain calm.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32..with three demanding tests of basic construction.
0:01:32 > 0:01:33Great(!)
0:01:33 > 0:01:36'But who has the discipline to follow a pattern...'
0:01:36 > 0:01:37Why on earth have I done this?
0:01:37 > 0:01:39'..the imagination to transform a garment...'
0:01:39 > 0:01:43- It's not something I would wear on a summer's day.- You don't know that.
0:01:43 > 0:01:47'..and the precision to make a stunning made-to-measure skirt?'
0:01:47 > 0:01:49- It's sexy.- Is she making you blush?
0:01:49 > 0:01:52'And who amongst these ten new sewers...'
0:01:52 > 0:01:53Argh!
0:01:53 > 0:01:55'..could go on to win...'
0:01:55 > 0:01:56Oh!
0:01:56 > 0:01:58'..The Great British Sewing Bee?'
0:01:58 > 0:02:03- That is date night. Isn't it? - Have you been on my dates?
0:02:22 > 0:02:26'The Sewing Bee has moved south of the river, to Bermondsey,
0:02:26 > 0:02:29'the heart of Victorian London's wool and leather trade.
0:02:29 > 0:02:31'Our new sewing room is a former tannery
0:02:31 > 0:02:34'that once supplied clothing manufacturers across Britain
0:02:34 > 0:02:36'and its empire.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39'It's about to become a hive of industry once again.'
0:02:39 > 0:02:43A huge welcome to our lovely sewers.
0:02:43 > 0:02:45Let me introduce you to your judges -
0:02:45 > 0:02:47Patrick and the fantastic Esme.
0:02:47 > 0:02:51They are going to help you and of course do a bit of judging.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53So, sorry about that! THEY LAUGH
0:02:53 > 0:02:56This week is all about basic construction techniques.
0:02:56 > 0:02:59The first challenge is the pattern challenge.
0:02:59 > 0:03:01- Esme...- Yep. - ..what have you got for them?
0:03:01 > 0:03:04Here are your patterns. Can you dish those out to everybody?
0:03:04 > 0:03:07OK, what we are doing is a top.
0:03:07 > 0:03:11- No sleeves, no fastenings - simple. - But there is a catch.
0:03:11 > 0:03:14We want you to use a linear pattern on the bias, and by using
0:03:14 > 0:03:18the bias, create a chevron pattern down the front and the back.
0:03:18 > 0:03:20You have got two and a half hours.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23Enormous luck... Your time starts now.
0:03:26 > 0:03:28At each Sewing Bee,
0:03:28 > 0:03:32the first challenge will test the sewers' ability to follow a pattern.
0:03:32 > 0:03:37I want a nice bold stripe, I think. I just don't know.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40I'm waiting for the fabric I want to come out at me.
0:03:40 > 0:03:44They are free to choose any fabric they like from the haberdashery,
0:03:44 > 0:03:46but it must deliver the perfect chevron
0:03:46 > 0:03:48Patrick and Esme are looking for.
0:03:48 > 0:03:50- So this is what you are after, that chevron.- Yes.
0:03:50 > 0:03:53All the way down the front and, of course, all the way down the back.
0:03:53 > 0:03:56Esme, what is cutting on the bias?
0:03:56 > 0:04:01Cutting on the bias is laying your pattern at 45 degrees to the grain.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04- So the grain is where the stripe is.- Got you.
0:04:04 > 0:04:05You see? It is not stretching.
0:04:05 > 0:04:08If I go like that, it stretches.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12So here, they have cut it on the bias, so the grain is here,
0:04:12 > 0:04:13and the bias is here.
0:04:14 > 0:04:19The fabric is volatile, so it takes the shape of the body.
0:04:19 > 0:04:21Cutting and sewing on the bias is tricky.
0:04:21 > 0:04:23This is a deceptively tough challenge.
0:04:23 > 0:04:25Can I confirm that you will both be modelling these?
0:04:25 > 0:04:29- Absolutely.- That's all I wanted to know. I'm going in.- OK.
0:04:29 > 0:04:31I don't want to spend too much time looking and picking
0:04:31 > 0:04:33and overthinking it.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35So I will just try and pick one really quick -
0:04:35 > 0:04:37something that catches my eye.
0:04:37 > 0:04:38Angeline is an events manager
0:04:38 > 0:04:41and grew up on her family's farm in Northern Ireland.
0:04:41 > 0:04:43Do you want to go back and lay some nice eggs?
0:04:43 > 0:04:45'I have been sewing for about ten years.'
0:04:45 > 0:04:48My brother bought me a sewing machine for Christmas one year,
0:04:48 > 0:04:50and I remember spending the whole of Christmas Day
0:04:50 > 0:04:51trying to thread it.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53I have went for a floral print,
0:04:53 > 0:04:55but there are black and white striped lines.
0:04:55 > 0:04:58Bit of stretch in it, but we should be OK.
0:04:58 > 0:05:01Oh, the haberdashery is amazing! I want it in my house.
0:05:01 > 0:05:03That seems perfectly reasonable.
0:05:03 > 0:05:05We don't need bedrooms or anything(!)
0:05:05 > 0:05:09Married mum-of-three Charlotte is an editor of a medical journal,
0:05:09 > 0:05:12and her passion has overrun the family garage.
0:05:12 > 0:05:14I love seeing my kids wear things that I have made.
0:05:14 > 0:05:16I made them a set of matching pyjamas for Christmas,
0:05:16 > 0:05:19but I don't think they have all worn them together since then,
0:05:19 > 0:05:21because they're in the wash at different times,
0:05:21 > 0:05:24but they all wore them together and it was just so cute!
0:05:24 > 0:05:25I'm not very good at deciding.
0:05:25 > 0:05:27I have got this one, which is nice and floaty,
0:05:27 > 0:05:29but that makes it harder to sew.
0:05:29 > 0:05:31Millions of pins and I'll be fine.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33With their striped fabric chosen...
0:05:33 > 0:05:36Need to get this just right, actually.
0:05:36 > 0:05:38..the sewers need to work out how best
0:05:38 > 0:05:40to cut out their pattern pieces.
0:05:40 > 0:05:41Right...
0:05:41 > 0:05:43The four pattern pieces -
0:05:43 > 0:05:45two for the front, and two for the back -
0:05:45 > 0:05:47are cut at a 45 degree angle
0:05:47 > 0:05:49along the bias of the fabric.
0:05:49 > 0:05:51When they are joined together at the centre seam,
0:05:51 > 0:05:53the linear pattern should match perfectly,
0:05:53 > 0:05:56forming the chevron the judges have asked for.
0:05:56 > 0:05:57Have you made a top like this before?
0:05:57 > 0:06:00I have never made a top like this before.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03I have done on the bias, and that sort of...
0:06:03 > 0:06:05matching stuff.
0:06:05 > 0:06:0971-year-old grandmother of nine Joyce lives in West Sussex
0:06:09 > 0:06:12and is a retired school's administration officer.
0:06:12 > 0:06:14She has been sewing for almost 60 years.
0:06:14 > 0:06:19I get my sewing inspiration from all sorts of places, and what I have
0:06:19 > 0:06:22started doing is taking pictures in shops on my mobile phone...
0:06:22 > 0:06:26if I like something. Which is a bit cheeky, really.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29It worries me that the fabric is very slippy,
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- it is going to be difficult to match.- It's volatile.
0:06:33 > 0:06:34Well, yes. Well done, you.
0:06:34 > 0:06:36I'm going to be honest with you, Esme used it earlier
0:06:36 > 0:06:38and I have stolen it.
0:06:38 > 0:06:40So you've just pinched it. Good thinking.
0:06:40 > 0:06:42Whilst cutting on the bias,
0:06:42 > 0:06:46every move the sewers make has the potential to distort the fabric.
0:06:46 > 0:06:47You can see I'm shaking.
0:06:47 > 0:06:51And distorted fabric will never match at the centre seams.
0:06:51 > 0:06:53I am not used to cutting fabric on the bias.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56If you handle it too much, then it just sort of grows.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59But one sewer has chosen the most unstable fabric
0:06:59 > 0:07:02on offer in the haberdashery.
0:07:02 > 0:07:04Oh, hello. Somebody has been brave.
0:07:04 > 0:07:06- Georgette.- Yeah, bit of georgette.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09Jamie's georgette is a fine, slippery fabric
0:07:09 > 0:07:11usually reserved for evening wear.
0:07:11 > 0:07:13Have you cut on the bias before?
0:07:13 > 0:07:15Bits and bobs, but not a huge amount.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19- And have you used georgette before? - Once before.- And how did that go?
0:07:19 > 0:07:21It was tricky. I will be honest, it was tricky.
0:07:21 > 0:07:23BUT...if you're going to cut on the bias,
0:07:23 > 0:07:26might as well use something that stretches anyway.
0:07:26 > 0:07:28- Well, good luck... - Thank you.- ..with that.
0:07:28 > 0:07:31Jamie is from Exeter and gave up a career in teaching to be
0:07:31 > 0:07:34a stay-at-home dad to look after his deaf son Harry.
0:07:34 > 0:07:37You could say that sewing's in the blood.
0:07:37 > 0:07:38Growing up with my nan,
0:07:38 > 0:07:40she was hand-sewing gloves for a local company,
0:07:40 > 0:07:44and I grew up with sewing machines and needles and pins all around me.
0:07:44 > 0:07:47This is slightly different to what I normally do.
0:07:47 > 0:07:50Normally, I am at home... I would have my head in the washing machine.
0:07:50 > 0:07:52Well, that's what I will tell the wife anyway.
0:07:54 > 0:07:58To cut on the bias was on the list to practise.
0:07:58 > 0:08:02I didn't think it would be a first week thing, so... Whoops!
0:08:02 > 0:08:04Duncan is a maths tutor.
0:08:04 > 0:08:07He began sewing three years ago and is already making
0:08:07 > 0:08:09made-to-measure womenswear for his friends.
0:08:09 > 0:08:11I'll go for a half down on the bum and then we can see.
0:08:11 > 0:08:14'The preparation is the most important thing for me.
0:08:14 > 0:08:18'If you take your time, measure, cut and make sure that is all
0:08:18 > 0:08:22done beautifully, then when you come to sew, that is fun and easy.
0:08:22 > 0:08:24- Do you always cut on the floor? - Yeah.- Do you?!
0:08:24 > 0:08:25Sort of what I am used to.
0:08:25 > 0:08:27- And have you ever cut on the bias before?- Never.
0:08:27 > 0:08:29It is really scary.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32I am quite quick with the sewing. I just always take my time cutting.
0:08:32 > 0:08:35- OK, take your time, but not too much...- No, no.
0:08:35 > 0:08:37..is a big suggestion.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40# Be cool, relax... #
0:08:40 > 0:08:42Even if the sewers think they have
0:08:42 > 0:08:45cut out their first pieces accurately...
0:08:45 > 0:08:47that is only the beginning.
0:08:47 > 0:08:50I think the most difficult part is cutting the pieces
0:08:50 > 0:08:52so the stripes match.
0:08:53 > 0:08:56To create a perfect chevron down the centre seam...
0:08:56 > 0:09:00- Doesn't say.- ..their second piece must have stripes
0:09:00 > 0:09:01running in the opposite direction.
0:09:01 > 0:09:04Then all the stripes on both pieces need to meet.
0:09:04 > 0:09:06Some of them appear to be matching,
0:09:06 > 0:09:07and then some of them are slightly off.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10Seems to be the movement in the fabric.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12Any slipping or stretching during cutting
0:09:12 > 0:09:15and the chevrons that they have matched will be gone.
0:09:15 > 0:09:17My kids would just tell me to chill out.
0:09:17 > 0:09:20They would also tell me not to go out in the first round.
0:09:21 > 0:09:24Position is really important in this task.
0:09:24 > 0:09:26I just want to get them cut, and then, hopefully,
0:09:26 > 0:09:27the sewing will be a doddle.
0:09:27 > 0:09:30Rumana lives in East London and she is a junior doctor.
0:09:30 > 0:09:34I have been sewing since I was probably about seven.
0:09:34 > 0:09:36The first thing I ever made was actually a dress for my Barbie.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39My mum had made me a dress for Eid,
0:09:39 > 0:09:43and so I used the scraps of it to make her a matching one.
0:09:43 > 0:09:46I think I made one of my tops slightly longer than the other,
0:09:46 > 0:09:47with all the shifting.
0:09:47 > 0:09:51I'm just going to pretend that it was meant to be that length.
0:09:51 > 0:09:53If lining up the chevrons wasn't tricky enough...
0:09:53 > 0:09:54Whoa-whoa-whoa.
0:09:54 > 0:09:58..one sewer has made this first challenge twice as hard.
0:09:58 > 0:10:01- You are making a chevron out of a chevron.- Yes.
0:10:01 > 0:10:03I have given myself a bit of a job, I have realised.
0:10:03 > 0:10:05What we are going to need is a bit of a square.
0:10:05 > 0:10:08It will end up with kind of a square, and then come down.
0:10:08 > 0:10:10And have you cut on the bias before?
0:10:10 > 0:10:12Yes, a long time ago.
0:10:12 > 0:10:14Mum-of-two Tracey is a retired primary school teacher
0:10:14 > 0:10:17and lives in Derbyshire with her husband Chris.
0:10:17 > 0:10:19- Don't you want me to measure your neck?- My fat neck on...
0:10:19 > 0:10:21THEY LAUGH
0:10:21 > 0:10:24My husband likes me to sew, but I'm terrible for buying fabric.
0:10:24 > 0:10:25I think I am one piece away from appearing
0:10:25 > 0:10:27on a programme called Hoarders.
0:10:27 > 0:10:30It was very strange coming away and leaving Chris, my husband,
0:10:30 > 0:10:33at home last night. He is perfectly capable of cooking
0:10:33 > 0:10:35and looking after himself. He'll not starve.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37He might have to go to Tesco, though,
0:10:37 > 0:10:39and he doesn't like doing that.
0:10:39 > 0:10:43Whilst Tracey, Jamie and Joyce are ready to begin sewing...
0:10:43 > 0:10:45- Joyce.- Yes?
0:10:45 > 0:10:47- Can I ask for your help for a moment?- Of course you can.
0:10:47 > 0:10:51..matching and cutting on the bias is still proving tricky for some.
0:10:51 > 0:10:52- What's this? Your front?- Yes.
0:10:52 > 0:10:54I made one slightly longer than the other.
0:10:54 > 0:10:57I might just trim that off now before it becomes a headache.
0:10:57 > 0:10:59Look, there's your match. Can you see? You have got your match.
0:10:59 > 0:11:02- Do you want a hand up?- Yes, please.
0:11:02 > 0:11:03You all right?
0:11:04 > 0:11:05I've done it wrong again.
0:11:05 > 0:11:07Every time I cut it out, I cut it out,
0:11:07 > 0:11:11and when I go to place them back together, the wrong sides match.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14Josh plays football for Cardiff Metropolitan University.
0:11:14 > 0:11:17Entirely self-taught, his sewing skills
0:11:17 > 0:11:19are now in constant demand by his team-mates.
0:11:19 > 0:11:21- Just a touch more.- A touch more?
0:11:21 > 0:11:23'When I told the boys that I had a sewing machine,
0:11:23 > 0:11:25'I think at first people laugh.
0:11:25 > 0:11:28'But then when we get new tracksuits, I will get all the boys'
0:11:28 > 0:11:31giving me some money to alter their tracksuits
0:11:31 > 0:11:32so it actually fits them.
0:11:32 > 0:11:34What are we doing here?
0:11:34 > 0:11:38I somehow... I have cut it out the wrong way, so it doesn't actually...
0:11:38 > 0:11:40- Two bits the same.- Oh, my God.
0:11:40 > 0:11:42Yeah? Does that make sense? So now you have got the chevron.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- Where do I match my back...? - I love you for helping.
0:11:45 > 0:11:47- Shall we get some pins and cut this puppy?- I'm going.
0:11:47 > 0:11:50- Yes, love you, thank you so much.- Pleasure.
0:11:50 > 0:11:52Charlotte, you are a magnificent woman.
0:11:53 > 0:11:55As they sew their pieces together,
0:11:55 > 0:12:00all the careful work to match the chevrons can easily be undone.
0:12:00 > 0:12:02If there is any movement in the fabric either away,
0:12:02 > 0:12:04the chevron won't match when I'm finished.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07They have got to be right, otherwise I will get picked up on it.
0:12:07 > 0:12:09Hopefully that has matched. Has that matched?
0:12:09 > 0:12:12I have got the effect I wanted with this square
0:12:12 > 0:12:15along the centre, but further down, it has gone slightly out here.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18So I'm just going to unpick that last little bit and move it across.
0:12:18 > 0:12:20This is the front. I didn't think
0:12:20 > 0:12:21I would do it, but I did.
0:12:21 > 0:12:22SHE LAUGHS
0:12:22 > 0:12:24Jade is from Eastbourne,
0:12:24 > 0:12:27and, at just 18, is the competition's youngest ever sewer.
0:12:27 > 0:12:29- What colour would you like?- Pink.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32'I love sewing for my sister,
0:12:32 > 0:12:33and then there is the dogs.
0:12:33 > 0:12:34Come on, Jessie.
0:12:34 > 0:12:38'I have made bandannas and little tutus.'
0:12:38 > 0:12:41Is that a dog on a sewing machine? Hold on, just look at that.
0:12:41 > 0:12:43- Jessie.- Hello, Jessie.
0:12:43 > 0:12:44Who are these individuals?
0:12:44 > 0:12:47That's my dad, that is my little sister Gemma...
0:12:47 > 0:12:49- They must be so proud of you. - They are.
0:12:49 > 0:12:52I think they are. My little sister, Gemma,
0:12:52 > 0:12:53when she knew I was coming up,
0:12:53 > 0:12:56she goes, "So who is going to have your room?"
0:12:56 > 0:12:58I was like, "I'm only going for four days."
0:12:58 > 0:13:00I just feel like, because we are on camera,
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- should we give Gemma your room now? - No.- OK.- She's not allowed it!
0:13:05 > 0:13:09You have an hour and a half left. You have had an hour.
0:13:09 > 0:13:12- Oh, my God. Uhh! - How are you feeling?
0:13:12 > 0:13:15Stressed, but, you know, this is my stressed face.
0:13:15 > 0:13:17I'm right in thinking that,
0:13:17 > 0:13:21if I then put a seam line down there, that would be the chevron?
0:13:23 > 0:13:26- You all right? - Yeah. Well, I'm assuming
0:13:26 > 0:13:27I have got it right now. I just...
0:13:29 > 0:13:31Statistically, you have to.
0:13:34 > 0:13:37I am hand-basting it all, to try and line it all up.
0:13:37 > 0:13:39It is slow going at the moment.
0:13:39 > 0:13:42But it is even slower going for Ghislaine.
0:13:42 > 0:13:44No, it's not it either.
0:13:44 > 0:13:46Ghislaine's family are from Martinique,
0:13:46 > 0:13:49and she now works as an office manager in London.
0:13:49 > 0:13:51I love vibrant prints in my sewing.
0:13:51 > 0:13:54When I make things for myself, every time I make a seam,
0:13:54 > 0:13:57I like to try it on to see if it fits.
0:13:57 > 0:13:59And I find it a lot easier to do that in my underwear.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05Gosh, you have given yourself a heck of a challenge here.
0:14:05 > 0:14:06Absolutely.
0:14:06 > 0:14:08This is a linear pattern,
0:14:08 > 0:14:10but it doesn't have straight edges,
0:14:10 > 0:14:12so this black stripe here is at a different position
0:14:12 > 0:14:14to the edge of the black stripe here.
0:14:14 > 0:14:17- Exactly.- It may NOT line up on the edge of the sewing line.
0:14:17 > 0:14:20- I don't think it will. We'd like to give you a little tip.- Yes, please?
0:14:20 > 0:14:23Ditch this fabric and start with something straight.
0:14:23 > 0:14:28What have I done to myself? What have I done?
0:14:28 > 0:14:32I mean, we're not telling you what to do.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34OK, one more fabric. I'm changing fabric.
0:14:34 > 0:14:36GHISLAINE LAUGHS You're not?!
0:14:36 > 0:14:37- I am!- You don't have time!
0:14:37 > 0:14:40- I-I have.- Just grab anything.
0:14:40 > 0:14:43- OK.- Of course you can use that. - I don't like pink and...
0:14:43 > 0:14:44It doesn't matter.
0:14:47 > 0:14:50- OK, OK, OK, OK! - Well, this is madness.
0:14:50 > 0:14:53The fabric is more stable, so I am not going to waste as much time.
0:14:53 > 0:14:55Basically, I have got an hour left.
0:14:55 > 0:14:58It doesn't bother me that Ghislaine is using the same fabric as me.
0:14:58 > 0:15:01She has obviously got good taste.
0:15:01 > 0:15:03Sewers, you have one hour left.
0:15:03 > 0:15:04Here we go.
0:15:04 > 0:15:06Yes!
0:15:06 > 0:15:08CHARLOTTE LAUGHS
0:15:08 > 0:15:11That's all right, I am happy now. I got patterns matching.
0:15:11 > 0:15:13You finding it really slippery?
0:15:13 > 0:15:15I've got big fat hands, that's what it is.
0:15:15 > 0:15:19On the front. Not my colour, but it is matched quite well, so...
0:15:19 > 0:15:22it was worth spending the time hand-tacking it all.
0:15:22 > 0:15:23There we go, not too bad.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26The fabric being so much more stable,
0:15:26 > 0:15:29I don't have to pin so much, the cutting is a lot easier.
0:15:29 > 0:15:32While Ghislaine is finally making progress...
0:15:32 > 0:15:34You've cut and sewn the back, now you're going back to cutting again.
0:15:34 > 0:15:38- Yes.- ..Rumana's inaccurate cutting is starting to catch up with her.
0:15:38 > 0:15:42- It is just so slippery.- Yeah. - It just kept moving.
0:15:42 > 0:15:44This is the point of this challenge.
0:15:44 > 0:15:47These pieces have to all be exactly the size of the pattern.
0:15:47 > 0:15:48Now, none of the three you have cut
0:15:48 > 0:15:50- are actually the size of the pattern.- Yeah...
0:15:50 > 0:15:52I'm just going to restart.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56- This is the back.- Cut the back. - We want the front.- Yes.- Don't panic.
0:15:56 > 0:15:58It is very hard not to panic.
0:15:58 > 0:16:00- Sorry, we have made you panic.- Yes!
0:16:00 > 0:16:03- We didn't mean to.- Please, go. - Right, we will.
0:16:05 > 0:16:07Check that one there...
0:16:07 > 0:16:08CHARLOTTE GASPS
0:16:08 > 0:16:10This is... Ohhh.
0:16:10 > 0:16:14The next stage in Esme and Patrick's pattern...
0:16:14 > 0:16:16takes cutting and sewing on the bias to the next level.
0:16:16 > 0:16:21The next instruction says to make the bias strip that's going to
0:16:21 > 0:16:22finish the neckline off.
0:16:22 > 0:16:25Many of the garments we wear have a neckline that is
0:16:25 > 0:16:28neatened and reinforced...
0:16:28 > 0:16:30with something called bias binding.
0:16:30 > 0:16:33- Have you put bias binding on a bias top before?- No.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35- Ohh.- OK.- Is that going to be fun?
0:16:35 > 0:16:37I think so.
0:16:38 > 0:16:41First, they need to cut a strip of fabric on the bias that is
0:16:41 > 0:16:44exactly the same length as the opening for the neck.
0:16:45 > 0:16:48"Press the strip lengthways", done that.
0:16:48 > 0:16:50"Wrong sides together", yeah.
0:16:50 > 0:16:52"And mark the quarters with pins."
0:16:52 > 0:16:54This would go on the back neck.
0:16:54 > 0:16:56Then you put it between the notches.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59Now, the really tricky bit here...
0:16:59 > 0:17:01- The front of the V?- Yes.
0:17:01 > 0:17:04Between here and here is shorter than between there and there.
0:17:04 > 0:17:09So, if I go like this... Can you see how that is going all wobbly?
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- Yes.- Because that edge... - Can't you just chop it?
0:17:12 > 0:17:15- No.- OK.- You can't just chop it.
0:17:15 > 0:17:17- You need to ease this in.- I see.
0:17:17 > 0:17:20Because you need that length there.
0:17:20 > 0:17:24Sewn, to start with, with all the raw edges together,
0:17:24 > 0:17:27so, at the minute, all the raw edges are there,
0:17:27 > 0:17:32and what we're going to do next is turn that all the way over,
0:17:32 > 0:17:35so that you then end up with a really neat neck edge.
0:17:35 > 0:17:36CHARLOTTE SIGHS
0:17:36 > 0:17:39I cut my bias binding on the straight grain
0:17:39 > 0:17:42instead of on the bias, so it doesn't stretch.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45Just glad I realised before trying to sew it on.
0:17:45 > 0:17:47Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.
0:17:47 > 0:17:48- RUMANA:- OK.
0:17:48 > 0:17:50Ahh! That doesn't help.
0:17:50 > 0:17:52I have just stitched the neckline.
0:17:52 > 0:17:54Feel like I am on the home straight.
0:17:56 > 0:17:59Should check this other armhole is all right.
0:17:59 > 0:18:01That's better.
0:18:01 > 0:18:04Second time lucky. I hope it doesn't get to third time lucky.
0:18:04 > 0:18:06Then I will be really nervous.
0:18:08 > 0:18:10I'm shaking!
0:18:10 > 0:18:12I am really far behind everyone else.
0:18:14 > 0:18:16Loads and loads of pressing.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19You need an iron more than you need a sewing machine, really.
0:18:20 > 0:18:24Oh, no. I think my bias binding is too long.
0:18:25 > 0:18:26It might have stretched.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29Charlotte, what stitch are you using to neaten the edges
0:18:29 > 0:18:31- of the armholes?- Just zigzagging. - Just a zigzag, yeah?
0:18:31 > 0:18:33I'm going to sew the difference at the back
0:18:33 > 0:18:34and then cut it off and hope.
0:18:36 > 0:18:40Yes! Just check that I have a chevron, and I do.
0:18:40 > 0:18:43Look at you. You were done about two hours ago.
0:18:43 > 0:18:45TRACEY LAUGHS
0:18:45 > 0:18:47- Are you happy with it? - Yes, I am. Yes, yes.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49It's just a shame it won't fit me.
0:18:49 > 0:18:51- Jade, how are you doing?- Done.
0:18:51 > 0:18:53- Putting it on?- Yeah. - You're done?- Yeah.
0:18:53 > 0:18:55I have heard a couple of "I've finished",
0:18:55 > 0:18:58which isn't exactly where I am yet.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02I'm stitching the binding, but you can see, it just moves so much.
0:19:02 > 0:19:05Sewers, you have got ten minutes.
0:19:05 > 0:19:06SHE SIGHS
0:19:07 > 0:19:11This is the maddest, quickest sewing I have ever done.
0:19:12 > 0:19:13That'll do.
0:19:15 > 0:19:16HE GROANS
0:19:23 > 0:19:24I'm trying to do the hems,
0:19:24 > 0:19:27because I don't have time to fix the rest of it.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- It's terrible. - It's not great. At all.
0:19:30 > 0:19:32One minute left!
0:19:32 > 0:19:35I haven't finished an arm, it needs to be pressed, can I just press it?
0:19:35 > 0:19:36Yep. QUICKLY!
0:19:36 > 0:19:38Do I have to get rid of all the threads?
0:19:38 > 0:19:41"Do I have to get rid of all the threads?"
0:19:41 > 0:19:42I've never been asked that before.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45- It's an idea, I've got scissors. Pull it off!- OK, OK, OK!
0:19:45 > 0:19:48- Which way is the right way? - I don't...
0:19:48 > 0:19:50- Armholes are hilarious. - All right, everybody, that is it!
0:19:50 > 0:19:53First challenge of the Sewing Bee is finished.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55Give yourselves a round of applause.
0:19:59 > 0:20:03It is so bad! I want to go home. I'm done.
0:20:03 > 0:20:07Sewers, please bring your mannequins forward for the...judgey bit.
0:20:09 > 0:20:12# If I had a needle and thread
0:20:12 > 0:20:15# Tell you what I'd do... #
0:20:15 > 0:20:19'Ten chevron tops cut on the bias in just two-and-a-half hours.
0:20:19 > 0:20:22'But what will Esme and Patrick make of the first garments
0:20:22 > 0:20:24'of this year's Sewing Bee?'
0:20:25 > 0:20:29Charlotte, please bring your lovely chevron girl up.
0:20:33 > 0:20:37Now, the thing that I notice with this, that is matching,
0:20:37 > 0:20:39it's slightly out here.
0:20:39 > 0:20:43And here. The shoulders are matching and the back is matching.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46The front here is flat, which is good.
0:20:46 > 0:20:48It is sitting pretty nicely.
0:20:48 > 0:20:49I think it is very neatly sewn,
0:20:49 > 0:20:52I think the pattern matching is pretty near spot-on.
0:20:52 > 0:20:54- Yeah, well done.- Thank you.
0:20:57 > 0:21:00I was quite worried about you actually.
0:21:00 > 0:21:02Because you used georgette.
0:21:02 > 0:21:06- This is one of the hardest fabrics to choose.- I would have said so.
0:21:06 > 0:21:09It matches really beautifully all the way down.
0:21:09 > 0:21:11Again, matching on the back...
0:21:11 > 0:21:14Given what a delicate fabric this is to work with,
0:21:14 > 0:21:17this binding is spot-on. We are seeing that nice shape.
0:21:17 > 0:21:21I think this is a very good use of the bias on a fabric.
0:21:21 > 0:21:22Thank you.
0:21:28 > 0:21:31You have put your chevrons pointing up.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33Usually feels more natural
0:21:33 > 0:21:35if the pattern follows the general shape of the garments.
0:21:35 > 0:21:39- You have run out of time...- Yes. - ..so the armholes are not finished.
0:21:39 > 0:21:43Here, it is really, really stretched.
0:21:43 > 0:21:46Your binding all needs to be controlled and perfectly hidden.
0:21:46 > 0:21:48- Have you ever done that before?- No.
0:21:48 > 0:21:51Well, you will probably try it again, won't you?
0:21:51 > 0:21:53- (No, never.)- No? - LAUGHTER
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- Yeah, you're an optimist. - I'm an optimist.- Never again.
0:21:59 > 0:22:03In terms of matching the pattern, you have done exceptionally.
0:22:03 > 0:22:05You clearly took a lot of time over that!
0:22:05 > 0:22:08The hem is too fat, so it's hanging down.
0:22:08 > 0:22:12The binding on the bank is narrower here...than here.
0:22:14 > 0:22:16Overall, it's neat, it's tidy.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19This binding, although it has stretched a little bit,
0:22:19 > 0:22:20it is nearly done.
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- The matching is pretty good. - Pretty good?
0:22:23 > 0:22:26How good does it need to be to be "good"?
0:22:26 > 0:22:27- Tiptop. - PATRICK LAUGHS
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- You had a problem with cutting it out, didn't you?- Yes.
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- Well, it is going up... and the back is going down.- Yeah.
0:22:36 > 0:22:37THEY LAUGH
0:22:37 > 0:22:39Fourth time lucky, it would have been.
0:22:39 > 0:22:40SHE CHUCKLES
0:22:42 > 0:22:44Fractionally pulled out of shape here,
0:22:44 > 0:22:46but the matching, most of the way down, is really good.
0:22:46 > 0:22:49But where you have fallen down is on the binding.
0:22:49 > 0:22:53- Can you see, you've stretched it? - Absolutely. Yes.
0:22:58 > 0:23:00You are the only person that has chosen not
0:23:00 > 0:23:02to use a straight pattern.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04It gives us this natty sort of...
0:23:04 > 0:23:06I don't know why I said "natty"... Why did I...?
0:23:06 > 0:23:08CLAUDIA LAUGHS LOUDLY
0:23:08 > 0:23:12What you have given us is this really lovely kind of
0:23:12 > 0:23:13Aztec appearance to the front of it.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17The back is not so well matched, but overall,
0:23:17 > 0:23:21- I do like your choice of fabric. And it works.- Thank you.
0:23:25 > 0:23:27- You had a rocky start, didn't you?- Yes.
0:23:27 > 0:23:30- And you had to get a new fabric.- Yes.
0:23:30 > 0:23:33This is matched pretty good. A little bit off here.
0:23:33 > 0:23:36I love how tough you are!
0:23:36 > 0:23:38Really near perfect, to me.
0:23:38 > 0:23:40You have just stretched it out a little bit here,
0:23:40 > 0:23:42but given that you started all over again
0:23:42 > 0:23:44about an hour into the challenge,
0:23:44 > 0:23:46I am amazed that you have completed it.
0:23:51 > 0:23:55Well... In a way, the chevron is disguised with the roses.
0:23:55 > 0:23:58- It is kind of mind-boggling, that is.- It is tough to see.
0:23:58 > 0:24:00- It is matched here... - Let's look at the back.
0:24:00 > 0:24:01What do you think, Patrick?
0:24:01 > 0:24:04- Is it matched or isn't it? - I think it is.
0:24:04 > 0:24:08In a way, it is quite clever, because actually, it doesn't matter.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11If it didn't, because it has got these flowers on,
0:24:11 > 0:24:14- from a distance, you wouldn't notice.- Mm-hmm.
0:24:14 > 0:24:16The Pattern Challenge is ranked.
0:24:16 > 0:24:18Patrick and Esme will now reveal who has
0:24:18 > 0:24:23matched their expectations and whose sewing needs to improve.
0:24:23 > 0:24:24In tenth place...
0:24:24 > 0:24:26Rumana. Just wasn't complete.
0:24:26 > 0:24:29In ninth place, Josh.
0:24:29 > 0:24:32Duncan is eight, Ghislaine seventh,
0:24:32 > 0:24:35Joyce sixth, Jade fifth and Tracey is fourth.
0:24:36 > 0:24:38Third place is Angeline.
0:24:38 > 0:24:42- You did really well. The matching is good. Well done.- Thank you.
0:24:42 > 0:24:45So, in second place...
0:24:48 > 0:24:53..Charlotte. Beautiful pattern matching, lovely flat neck.
0:24:53 > 0:24:55It was extremely close. Very well done indeed.
0:24:55 > 0:24:57Jamie is number one.
0:24:57 > 0:25:00OTHER CONTESTANTS CHEER AND APPLAUD
0:25:00 > 0:25:02And, Jamie, your matching is fantastic.
0:25:02 > 0:25:07You chose a really difficult fabric. The finishing is great. Well done.
0:25:07 > 0:25:10- Are you happy?- I am very happy!
0:25:10 > 0:25:14A huge well done to all of you. It is now time for a break.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16Relax, and we'll see you back here for my favourite -
0:25:16 > 0:25:18the Alteration Challenge.
0:25:18 > 0:25:19- Well done.- Thank you.
0:25:19 > 0:25:21# It's a great feeling
0:25:21 > 0:25:24# To suddenly find the clouds are silver-lined... #
0:25:24 > 0:25:27I'm a little bit shocked to come first.
0:25:27 > 0:25:28I didn't really expect it.
0:25:28 > 0:25:30I cannot believe I just came second.
0:25:30 > 0:25:34I put that top on the mannequin and thought, "Ugh!"
0:25:34 > 0:25:36I think Esme was stricter than Patrick today,
0:25:36 > 0:25:38he was being very kind.
0:25:38 > 0:25:41I think I sewed that top in about 45 minutes altogether.
0:25:41 > 0:25:4345 minutes!
0:25:43 > 0:25:45I am not really used to being down the bottom,
0:25:45 > 0:25:47but I now want to make sure that I do better every time,
0:25:47 > 0:25:50and I will get better every time hopefully.
0:25:50 > 0:25:53I know they call it Basic Construction Week,
0:25:53 > 0:25:55but I'm pretty sure that's quite advanced.
0:25:57 > 0:25:59Pattern Challenge done
0:25:59 > 0:26:02and we have ten beautiful bias-cut tops to prove it.
0:26:02 > 0:26:04But now for something completely different.
0:26:04 > 0:26:09The sewers have to think fast and sew fast as they revamp
0:26:09 > 0:26:13something old and sort of frumpy into something new and fabulous.
0:26:13 > 0:26:16All in just an hour and a half.
0:26:16 > 0:26:19It's now time for the Alteration Challenge.
0:26:19 > 0:26:23This week, as we know, is about basic garment construction,
0:26:23 > 0:26:27so they have chosen something with lots of fabric.
0:26:27 > 0:26:29Patrick, will you reveal?
0:26:29 > 0:26:31We are giving you...
0:26:31 > 0:26:32the maternity dress.
0:26:32 > 0:26:37And we would like you to reshape it into something wearable
0:26:37 > 0:26:39that fits this mannequin.
0:26:39 > 0:26:43Drape, cut, dart, use the haberdashery,
0:26:43 > 0:26:48add other colours, braids, whatever you want, be really imaginative.
0:26:48 > 0:26:51The brilliant thing is, they aren't here - no offence.
0:26:51 > 0:26:54When they walk in, they won't know who has done what.
0:26:54 > 0:26:57- In the nicest possible way, ciao. - Ciao.- You can go.
0:26:57 > 0:27:01You have 90 minutes. Blow the judges' minds.
0:27:01 > 0:27:03Your time starts...now.
0:27:09 > 0:27:11When I had my kids, I did not wear maternity dresses.
0:27:11 > 0:27:15And if I had, it wouldn't have been one like this.
0:27:15 > 0:27:18I'm trying to work out what I can do, what I can change.
0:27:18 > 0:27:21This is the first time I have ever done anything like.
0:27:21 > 0:27:23I have no clue, I am winging it.
0:27:23 > 0:27:24This is their first opportunity to
0:27:24 > 0:27:27show us something, really, about their creative skills.
0:27:27 > 0:27:30The whole point of this is to get away from the shackles
0:27:30 > 0:27:33of the pattern and express something about themselves.
0:27:33 > 0:27:36If my students were doing this, what would absolutely come out
0:27:36 > 0:27:40is who they are, where they have come from, their point of view.
0:27:40 > 0:27:42We have got yards of fabric here,
0:27:42 > 0:27:44we have got a completely lining underneath it.
0:27:44 > 0:27:46You could take the whole thing apart,
0:27:46 > 0:27:49recut it and create something absolutely different.
0:27:49 > 0:27:52I think I would stick a hole here, and, you know, play.
0:27:53 > 0:27:55The dress that Patrick and Esme have given them
0:27:55 > 0:27:59is made from a basic, lightweight, woven viscose.
0:27:59 > 0:28:03- OK.- It is easy to shape, and the sewers' options should be endless.
0:28:03 > 0:28:08- What are you making?- I am making a pencil skirt.
0:28:08 > 0:28:12- And do you alter a lot? - Not really.
0:28:12 > 0:28:16I'm thinking pencil skirt, exposed zip, elastic waistband.
0:28:16 > 0:28:18I'm going to cut the skirt from the top
0:28:18 > 0:28:20and create a waistband with this denim.
0:28:20 > 0:28:23I want to make a nice, tight-fitted skirt.
0:28:23 > 0:28:26I am hoping to make a skirt, I'm going to do some pleats,
0:28:26 > 0:28:28so then it fits the mannequin.
0:28:28 > 0:28:32This is ribbing, it's very stretchy and quite strong so I'm going
0:28:32 > 0:28:35to try and use it as the waistband for a little miniskirt.
0:28:35 > 0:28:37But not everyone's making a skirt.
0:28:37 > 0:28:40I've chopped the side seams down, going to take those in,
0:28:40 > 0:28:42I've split the back cos it had a horrible pleat in there,
0:28:42 > 0:28:44I'm going to put a zip in,
0:28:44 > 0:28:47and I'm going to pop a couple of darts in the front,
0:28:47 > 0:28:51cut the neckline down and around, ruche it up
0:28:51 > 0:28:54and pop the lining in for the other side, then stick the skirt back on.
0:28:54 > 0:28:57- Have you got time to do all of that? - Yeah, if I am quick.
0:28:57 > 0:28:58It is going to be a dress,
0:28:58 > 0:29:01I am actually thinking of putting darts in.
0:29:01 > 0:29:05And where the darts go, to add a godet, you know?
0:29:05 > 0:29:06Very ambitious.
0:29:06 > 0:29:09The godet is a triangular piece of fabric inserted
0:29:09 > 0:29:11into a garment to create volume.
0:29:11 > 0:29:14And it is the other fabric that I'm going to add on
0:29:14 > 0:29:15that I hope makes the garment.
0:29:15 > 0:29:18It looked like a dress that could do some gathering,
0:29:18 > 0:29:20so I thought making a waistband with casing,
0:29:20 > 0:29:22then I'm going to put something through it to gather it.
0:29:22 > 0:29:24I'm probably going to shorten the hem as well,
0:29:24 > 0:29:26cos I don't really like how long it is.
0:29:26 > 0:29:28Some lace. Lace, lace, lace.
0:29:28 > 0:29:31I'm going to make it into a top with a zip down the front,
0:29:31 > 0:29:35and then use some lace on the collar and the sleeves.
0:29:35 > 0:29:37A nice, white chunky zip.
0:29:37 > 0:29:40I don't do much recycling stuff really.
0:29:40 > 0:29:43Bit of experience of making things bigger.
0:29:43 > 0:29:45Sewers, you have one hour left.
0:29:45 > 0:29:47Want to prove to the judges that I can finish a garment.
0:29:47 > 0:29:50I'm so scared after what happened this morning,
0:29:50 > 0:29:54just finishing the garment will be an achievement for me.
0:29:54 > 0:29:56I have put in denim side panels.
0:29:56 > 0:29:57Sort of done the side seam.
0:29:57 > 0:29:59And I'm currently unpicking the centre back
0:29:59 > 0:30:02so that I can put this in.
0:30:02 > 0:30:06I'm not happy with the zip, but I will get on with the rest of it
0:30:06 > 0:30:09and see if I can fix it a little bit later on.
0:30:09 > 0:30:11It's quite a chunky zip cos I want it to be visible.
0:30:11 > 0:30:13I don't think I've lifted my head once to see
0:30:13 > 0:30:15what anybody else is doing.
0:30:15 > 0:30:19I'm currently making the contrasting underlap going
0:30:19 > 0:30:21underneath the blue.
0:30:21 > 0:30:25I have created a waistband and I am gathering the fabric together.
0:30:25 > 0:30:28I'm just trying to finish up the gathers
0:30:28 > 0:30:29so that it's quite evenly distributed.
0:30:29 > 0:30:32- This looks so pretty, your choice of fabrics.- I hope so.
0:30:32 > 0:30:35Not something I would wear on a summer's day, but...
0:30:35 > 0:30:38- You don't know that.- Well... - With a glass of white...- Exactly.
0:30:38 > 0:30:41..a bowl of pistachios, you might want to throw that on.
0:30:41 > 0:30:44I might do after a bottle or two of red.
0:30:45 > 0:30:48Sewers, you've got 30 minutes left
0:30:48 > 0:30:51and then the scary couple will be coming upstairs.
0:30:51 > 0:30:54If I get this, the zipper, in and the back seam done,
0:30:54 > 0:30:56then I've a wee bit more time to play with.
0:30:58 > 0:31:01I've just sewn in one side of my zip.
0:31:01 > 0:31:03This might have to be done a few times,
0:31:03 > 0:31:06considering I've only ever done one of these before.
0:31:06 > 0:31:08- HE SIGHS - That wasn't very good, was it?
0:31:08 > 0:31:11I'm actually enjoying this more than I thought I would be,
0:31:11 > 0:31:14but let's see what it looks like at the end.
0:31:14 > 0:31:16Duncan, I'm just going to be honest with you, are you doing enough?
0:31:16 > 0:31:18Yeah, it is quite simple.
0:31:18 > 0:31:21- I might make a little neck scarf if I have time.- Make a neck scarf!
0:31:21 > 0:31:23I hope the transformation's big enough.
0:31:23 > 0:31:26I mean, I'm going to put an invisible zip in, as well.
0:31:26 > 0:31:28So I decided to go for a bit of a funky back.
0:31:28 > 0:31:31Don't know if that will be enough to impress the judges.
0:31:31 > 0:31:34I'm attaching a deep lace all the way around the bottom.
0:31:34 > 0:31:37That is date night, isn't it?
0:31:37 > 0:31:40- Have you been on my dates? - SHE LAUGHS
0:31:40 > 0:31:41Sewers, you've got ten minutes.
0:31:41 > 0:31:43OK, OK, OK.
0:31:43 > 0:31:45It's a neck scarf.
0:31:45 > 0:31:48I think this will add a little extra to it.
0:31:48 > 0:31:52Oh, gosh, that's a terrible zip. I've got a lot of puckering here.
0:31:52 > 0:31:56I'm just going to iron it as well as I can.
0:31:56 > 0:31:57Five minutes!
0:31:59 > 0:32:01I can't get my needle through.
0:32:03 > 0:32:04I'm not panicking.
0:32:04 > 0:32:07I'm going to attach this, then, back onto the bodice.
0:32:07 > 0:32:09But that'll be OK, I can do that.
0:32:14 > 0:32:16- 30 seconds!- Argh!
0:32:24 > 0:32:26All right, that's it, time!
0:32:28 > 0:32:30Come on, bring them up.
0:32:31 > 0:32:35# It must be something psychological... #
0:32:35 > 0:32:39It's judgment time, and Esme and Patrick will have no idea
0:32:39 > 0:32:41whose alteration is whose.
0:32:45 > 0:32:47First reactions, please.
0:32:47 > 0:32:50There are a lot of skirts. There are a couple that stand out,
0:32:50 > 0:32:52but there are a few for me that seem to be lacking
0:32:52 > 0:32:54a little bit of wow.
0:32:54 > 0:32:56I'm really disappointed.
0:32:56 > 0:33:00I was so excited about this, but look at those skirts.
0:33:00 > 0:33:01I mean, look at that skirt!
0:33:06 > 0:33:10Not only is it not very adventurous, it's just not very well done.
0:33:10 > 0:33:12Are you trying to make it fit?
0:33:12 > 0:33:15- Yes! I'm trying my best. - Have you succeeded?- No.
0:33:17 > 0:33:19We've got another skirt.
0:33:19 > 0:33:20They haven't gathered it evenly,
0:33:20 > 0:33:22they've put a little pleat in the back.
0:33:22 > 0:33:24The depth of it is relatively even.
0:33:24 > 0:33:26They've made a little neckerchief,
0:33:26 > 0:33:28obviously had a bit of spare time at the end there.
0:33:28 > 0:33:31I'd have rather have seen the time put into doing something
0:33:31 > 0:33:33a little more adventurous on the skirt.
0:33:36 > 0:33:39- Another gathered skirt. - And a waistband.
0:33:39 > 0:33:43In 90 minutes, I would have expected something considerably punchier.
0:33:48 > 0:33:49Another skirt.
0:33:49 > 0:33:52The waistband doesn't fit very well, it should have been shaped.
0:33:56 > 0:34:00It's a fairly simple A-line-ish skirt.
0:34:00 > 0:34:03Well, this seems to be the rage. It fits the stand quite well.
0:34:03 > 0:34:06Well, that is true. It just lacks wow.
0:34:09 > 0:34:11- It's a skirt.- Yep.
0:34:11 > 0:34:14Do you think this bow has been made from scratch?
0:34:14 > 0:34:15Yeah, it must have been.
0:34:15 > 0:34:18- It is a good combination of fabrics and colours.- Yeah.
0:34:18 > 0:34:20They all work harmoniously. I quite like it.
0:34:25 > 0:34:28This person has put a bit of elastic on the waist.
0:34:28 > 0:34:31There is a lot of reshaping in the back here.
0:34:31 > 0:34:34- I like the blue and the orange. - I do, too. It's simple.
0:34:34 > 0:34:37I think it's quite striking. It's wearable and it's different.
0:34:37 > 0:34:40- It is wearable, yeah. - I quite like it.
0:34:46 > 0:34:51This person tried to be experimental and play with the fabric.
0:34:51 > 0:34:53They've used a lot of different techniques. They've draped,
0:34:53 > 0:34:56- they've tucked.- Yup. - They've inserted a zip.
0:34:56 > 0:34:59The lining has been used to extend the length,
0:34:59 > 0:35:00which I think is really very clever.
0:35:00 > 0:35:03What we asked for was a bold statement.
0:35:03 > 0:35:04And this is bold, all right.
0:35:08 > 0:35:11This has had godets put into it.
0:35:11 > 0:35:15It's quite hard to sew a godet, but they've done that quite neatly.
0:35:15 > 0:35:17Obviously, it has a lot more shape through the waist
0:35:17 > 0:35:19and it's been shaped through the back.
0:35:19 > 0:35:21- At least it's shown some adventure.- Yes.
0:35:25 > 0:35:27I'm not a great fan of lace.
0:35:27 > 0:35:31The overall shape hasn't changed, really, very much at all.
0:35:31 > 0:35:33And that zip's too long.
0:35:33 > 0:35:37I mean, just make it at the right length and finish it correctly.
0:35:37 > 0:35:41- They haven't been clear enough or bold enough about it.- Yeah.
0:35:41 > 0:35:45So who's shown the imagination and skill to transform a garment?
0:35:45 > 0:35:47In tenth place,
0:35:47 > 0:35:50it is the lace-trimmed tabard.
0:35:50 > 0:35:53Up you come, Tracey!
0:35:53 > 0:35:55I thought it was quite flouncy.
0:35:55 > 0:35:58- I mean, it is flouncy, that's for sure.- That's for sure.
0:35:58 > 0:36:00In ninth place,
0:36:00 > 0:36:03this one, with the grey inserted side panels.
0:36:04 > 0:36:09That doesn't, to me, in skirt form, say you.
0:36:09 > 0:36:10Duncan is eighth,
0:36:10 > 0:36:12Josh seventh,
0:36:12 > 0:36:14Ghislaine sixth,
0:36:14 > 0:36:15Charlotte fifth,
0:36:15 > 0:36:17and in fourth place is Angeline.
0:36:18 > 0:36:22In third place is this blue and orange dress.
0:36:23 > 0:36:25It's quite striking.
0:36:25 > 0:36:27In second place...
0:36:30 > 0:36:33It's the sequinned insertions.
0:36:33 > 0:36:36It was a bold idea, it's got impact.
0:36:36 > 0:36:39Overall, I think it's an excellent piece of work, so well done.
0:36:39 > 0:36:42In first place is this one.
0:36:42 > 0:36:44THEY CLAP Come on, Jamie!
0:36:46 > 0:36:48You were bold, you tried to do a bit of draping,
0:36:48 > 0:36:52you used the lining, you really took on the challenge.
0:36:52 > 0:36:56It's not to show us how technically competent you are,
0:36:56 > 0:37:01- it's about your ability to imagine clothes.- Thank you so much.
0:37:01 > 0:37:04That's the end of your first day on Sewing Bee.
0:37:04 > 0:37:08Go home, we'll see you tomorrow for the big challenge.
0:37:08 > 0:37:12- Jamie's flying.- I thought it was all going to go wrong.- Aw, give off!
0:37:12 > 0:37:15Today has taught me I can loosen up a little bit.
0:37:15 > 0:37:16I guess I was a bit brave,
0:37:16 > 0:37:18braver than I would be in my own sewing room.
0:37:18 > 0:37:22I came second. I would rather have come first.
0:37:22 > 0:37:25I wasn't quite happy with my final outcome.
0:37:25 > 0:37:29It isn't as outrageous as me, in a way.
0:37:29 > 0:37:31That challenge was horrible.
0:37:40 > 0:37:43Just one challenge remains before one sewer is awarded
0:37:43 > 0:37:47Garment of the Week, and someone is asked to leave the sewing room.
0:37:47 > 0:37:49Jamie came first twice.
0:37:49 > 0:37:51The way that he handled that very difficult georgette,
0:37:51 > 0:37:53was really fantastic.
0:37:53 > 0:37:56Angeline did well on the alteration challenge.
0:37:56 > 0:37:58I liked her selection of colours.
0:37:58 > 0:38:02Charlotte came second in the chevron challenge.
0:38:02 > 0:38:04She was kind of panicking with the cutting out,
0:38:04 > 0:38:07but actually she matched it really well.
0:38:07 > 0:38:09Do you have an inkling about who might be leaving?
0:38:09 > 0:38:12Duncan definitely struggled with his finishing.
0:38:12 > 0:38:14Rumana, I think, perhaps nerves got the better of her
0:38:14 > 0:38:16- in the first challenge. - Yeah, I agree.
0:38:16 > 0:38:20Josh, had he just finished off those armholes, I think he'd have finished
0:38:20 > 0:38:22quite a lot further up,
0:38:22 > 0:38:24and I think Tracey's in that mix, as well.
0:38:26 > 0:38:30For each week's final challenge, there will be no mannequins.
0:38:30 > 0:38:33The sewers will be making clothes that must fit a real person.
0:38:33 > 0:38:35All right? Nice to meet you.
0:38:35 > 0:38:39Welcome back, sewers. For your first made-to-measure challenge,
0:38:39 > 0:38:41the judges would like you to make skirts.
0:38:41 > 0:38:44You can make mini, maxi, anything you like,
0:38:44 > 0:38:47but the fit has to be perfect.
0:38:47 > 0:38:50You have five hours. Enormous luck.
0:38:50 > 0:38:51Your time starts now.
0:38:53 > 0:38:55All right, must remain calm.
0:38:55 > 0:38:58This is the second skirt I've made in my entire life.
0:38:58 > 0:39:00For the made-to-measure challenge, the sewers have had a chance
0:39:00 > 0:39:03to practise at home with their chosen pattern.
0:39:03 > 0:39:05- Does that feel too tight? - No, that feels OK, actually.
0:39:05 > 0:39:08But now, for the first time, they'll be working
0:39:08 > 0:39:11with their chosen fabric and must fit their skirt to their model.
0:39:11 > 0:39:14Isn't a skirt quite simple, cos that's just about the waist?
0:39:14 > 0:39:16The waist is very important,
0:39:16 > 0:39:18but they might have a tight-fitting skirt.
0:39:18 > 0:39:21What I'm really intrigued to see is at what point
0:39:21 > 0:39:23they start trying it on the model.
0:39:23 > 0:39:25If you were doing this challenge,
0:39:25 > 0:39:27how many times, then, would you be holding it up to the model?
0:39:27 > 0:39:29How many measurements would you take?
0:39:29 > 0:39:32I wouldn't hold it up, I'd put it on the model and pin it.
0:39:32 > 0:39:34We're also going to see whether they understand fabric,
0:39:34 > 0:39:36as well as whether they understand fit.
0:39:36 > 0:39:39- Once the sewers have measured their models...- Perfect.
0:39:39 > 0:39:43..they'll need to adjust the size of their standard pattern piece...
0:39:43 > 0:39:45Right, let's do some cutting.
0:39:45 > 0:39:48..and cut their fabric to the new measurements for a perfect fit.
0:39:48 > 0:39:52I've chosen this taffeta. It's got a nice body to it.
0:39:52 > 0:39:55It's quite swishy and sticky-outy, and it's going to have a
0:39:55 > 0:39:59bit of a petticoat underneath, so it's going to be quite '50s-ish.
0:39:59 > 0:40:02Charlotte's 1950s three-quarter-length circle skirt
0:40:02 > 0:40:05- will have a high waistband.- I've got everything down to the minute.
0:40:05 > 0:40:08I've got 20 minutes to cut it out and I'm already 15 minutes into that
0:40:08 > 0:40:10and I've cut one bit.
0:40:10 > 0:40:14So I'm doing a circle skirt, so the main fabric is 100% silk,
0:40:14 > 0:40:16but it's actually not too bad to work with.
0:40:16 > 0:40:20And I just think all these little petals give it really nice movement.
0:40:20 > 0:40:22Duncan's silk petal skirt
0:40:22 > 0:40:23will be lined on the inside
0:40:23 > 0:40:27and will have a ribbed, stretch cotton waistband.
0:40:27 > 0:40:29I think these petals, they're catching on pins,
0:40:29 > 0:40:33so I've just really taken the time to make sure I don't snag it.
0:40:33 > 0:40:35My thoughts for this fabric was quite summery.
0:40:35 > 0:40:37Me and my friends always go to the races in the summer,
0:40:37 > 0:40:40a big day out, and I love the thought of girls going to the
0:40:40 > 0:40:42races in nice, long skirts.
0:40:42 > 0:40:44Josh is using stretch denim
0:40:44 > 0:40:45to make a flared skirt,
0:40:45 > 0:40:47which is fitted to a yoked waist.
0:40:49 > 0:40:51There should be one more piece.
0:40:51 > 0:40:55I can't find the back waistband piece.
0:40:55 > 0:40:57No, it's not here.
0:40:57 > 0:41:00The plan was to cut it all out and sew it together,
0:41:00 > 0:41:02and now I'm probably going to have to construct
0:41:02 > 0:41:06one of my pattern pieces by guessing.
0:41:06 > 0:41:09While Josh's lost pattern piece has just made his skirt
0:41:09 > 0:41:11even harder to make...
0:41:11 > 0:41:13I'm going to have to draft one.
0:41:13 > 0:41:16..one sewer has risked self-drafting all their pattern pieces.
0:41:16 > 0:41:20I don't do lots of self-drafted patterns,
0:41:20 > 0:41:23but when you want the perfect fit, sometimes it is best.
0:41:23 > 0:41:26Jade's making a high-waisted tutu skirt,
0:41:26 > 0:41:28with two contrasting net fabrics.
0:41:28 > 0:41:31It'll be fastened with an oversized metal zip.
0:41:31 > 0:41:34- And that's going to be exposed? - Yeah, that's going to be exposed.
0:41:34 > 0:41:36- You're going to see that down the centre back.- OK.
0:41:36 > 0:41:39The first thing that I want to do is just cut the waistband out,
0:41:39 > 0:41:42because this is the most crucial part.
0:41:42 > 0:41:44- And are you boning this?- I am.
0:41:44 > 0:41:46Jade's waistband is so large,
0:41:46 > 0:41:50she needs to support it with thin lengths of plastic called boning.
0:41:50 > 0:41:53It kind of gives more shape, so it actually fits into your curves.
0:41:53 > 0:41:54How are you going to sew it in?
0:41:54 > 0:41:58What I'll do is I'll sew into the seam, so hopefully
0:41:58 > 0:42:00if I get it in-between the seams, you won't be able to see...
0:42:00 > 0:42:03OK, so you've obviously done boning before.
0:42:03 > 0:42:07Yeah, I made my prom dress, so I had to have boning in it.
0:42:07 > 0:42:10It's actually a pattern I found online,
0:42:10 > 0:42:13and it's actually a combination of an apron pattern and a self-drafted
0:42:13 > 0:42:16kind of pattern, where I'm just going to add in my own tweaks to it.
0:42:16 > 0:42:18Rumana's full-length gathered skirt
0:42:18 > 0:42:20will have a Japanese obi-style
0:42:20 > 0:42:21wraparound waistband.
0:42:21 > 0:42:24That sits quite high on the waist, it's high-waisted,
0:42:24 > 0:42:27and then you've got these ties that come off and go round again,
0:42:27 > 0:42:30so I'm just matching the end of the waistband with the tie.
0:42:30 > 0:42:32This is the fiddliest bit.
0:42:32 > 0:42:36Once I get this done, I can make sure it fits and then carry on.
0:42:36 > 0:42:38Right, missus, let's do this.
0:42:38 > 0:42:41Angeline has already finished cutting out,
0:42:41 > 0:42:43allowing her to begin pinning on her model.
0:42:43 > 0:42:45I do make a lot of clothes for my friends,
0:42:45 > 0:42:48so I'm used to making for other people. I think this will be fine.
0:42:48 > 0:42:52She's making a tight-fitting pencil skirt with a gathered peplum
0:42:52 > 0:42:54and contrasting piped trim.
0:42:54 > 0:42:56You can go, missus.
0:42:56 > 0:42:59I'd like to impress Esme, especially after the alteration comments.
0:42:59 > 0:43:01I know what they're looking for now,
0:43:01 > 0:43:05so that gives me the opportunity, then, to just go mad.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08- Oopsy-daisy. Can you just hold it there?- Yeah.
0:43:08 > 0:43:09Wiggle as best you can.
0:43:09 > 0:43:12I'm going to try and avoid sticking pins in you.
0:43:12 > 0:43:13Before any seams are sewn...
0:43:13 > 0:43:16I can see where I need to pull it in a little bit.
0:43:16 > 0:43:19..the sewers should take the time to check their cut pattern pieces
0:43:19 > 0:43:21against their model.
0:43:21 > 0:43:24Oh, gosh, that looks great.
0:43:24 > 0:43:26Ghislaine is making a wraparound skirt,
0:43:26 > 0:43:28gathered with box pleats
0:43:28 > 0:43:29and a bow fastening.
0:43:29 > 0:43:32I've done my waistband already with my bow,
0:43:32 > 0:43:34and then I'm going to attach the whole thing
0:43:34 > 0:43:40and I've got three metres of hand-stitched hem to do.
0:43:42 > 0:43:43How're you doing, Tracey?
0:43:43 > 0:43:45All right, I'm starting to put the waistband on.
0:43:45 > 0:43:47So it should come round like that
0:43:47 > 0:43:51and then tuck in into a really nice pleat, like this.
0:43:51 > 0:43:53Right, turn round again.
0:43:53 > 0:43:55The fitting of the waistband is the most important thing,
0:43:55 > 0:43:58purely because that's the only part that is going to be slick
0:43:58 > 0:44:00and fitted to the model's body.
0:44:00 > 0:44:02I'm just going to look at it from a distance.
0:44:02 > 0:44:04If you don't get this bit right, it's pretty pointless
0:44:04 > 0:44:05- doing the skirt.- Turn round.
0:44:07 > 0:44:08Brilliant.
0:44:08 > 0:44:11- SEWING MACHINE WHIRS - I haven't done any fitting yet.
0:44:11 > 0:44:14I'm just waiting to do my zip, so then I get this big rectangle
0:44:14 > 0:44:16and I can just gather the top to fit her properly.
0:44:16 > 0:44:19Small, little bits that had to be taken in,
0:44:19 > 0:44:22but otherwise I've actually drawn it OK.
0:44:22 > 0:44:25While Jade's self-drafted waistband is ready for boning,
0:44:25 > 0:44:29it's the moment of truth for Josh's guesswork.
0:44:29 > 0:44:31I lost the pattern piece and I just had to guess.
0:44:31 > 0:44:36I just want to get it to fit correctly.
0:44:36 > 0:44:39- I think that's a little bit too loose here, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:44:39 > 0:44:42So I'm going to bring it in just a little bit up there,
0:44:42 > 0:44:45so we want about half an inch again.
0:44:45 > 0:44:47- Is that all right there? - Yeah, that feels good.
0:44:47 > 0:44:49The waistband fits brilliant.
0:44:49 > 0:44:54I've never fitted to a model before, and I just hope it doesn't show.
0:44:55 > 0:44:58Even if they're happy with their first fittings...
0:44:58 > 0:45:00OK, I think we're good.
0:45:00 > 0:45:03..some of the sewers have chosen to make this first made-to-measure
0:45:03 > 0:45:05challenge even harder.
0:45:05 > 0:45:07Am I being brave working with chiffon?
0:45:07 > 0:45:09Probably, or stupid, one of the two.
0:45:09 > 0:45:11Jamie is going to apply
0:45:11 > 0:45:14a flounce, made of delicate chiffon, to the front of his skirt.
0:45:14 > 0:45:18The kind of style I would like to wear if I was going to wear a skirt,
0:45:18 > 0:45:19I guess.
0:45:19 > 0:45:22He's hoping his flounce will add a feature to his classic
0:45:22 > 0:45:23A-line skirt.
0:45:23 > 0:45:28I've got to say, I don't love a flounce, but...
0:45:28 > 0:45:31I'm looking forward to seeing this garment because the colours
0:45:31 > 0:45:34work really well and there's a beautiful lightness to all of this.
0:45:34 > 0:45:37- So you'll have hemmed that? - Yes, rolled hem.
0:45:37 > 0:45:39That's going to show us some fine skills,
0:45:39 > 0:45:41if you can do a nice, neat rolled hem on that one.
0:45:41 > 0:45:44- Why do I open my mouth? - THEY LAUGH
0:45:45 > 0:45:48- Done that bit. - Tracey is also taking a risk.
0:45:48 > 0:45:51She's the only sewer attempting pockets.
0:45:51 > 0:45:53So it kind of goes there.
0:45:53 > 0:45:57Waistband's here, and then the front of the skirt will come there,
0:45:57 > 0:46:00so you'll actually see this part of the design.
0:46:00 > 0:46:02Tracey's making a woollen circle skirt,
0:46:02 > 0:46:04with front hip pockets.
0:46:04 > 0:46:06The trickiest bit is the trim on the pocket,
0:46:06 > 0:46:10cos it'll be a pleat on the bias, which is a bit fiddly.
0:46:10 > 0:46:12It's actually called a pleating board.
0:46:12 > 0:46:15It's just made out of lining paper and card, it's nothing fancy.
0:46:15 > 0:46:18So that will then curve along the edge of the pocket, like that.
0:46:20 > 0:46:23This is the first godet that's gone in and I've got another...
0:46:25 > 0:46:26..seven to do.
0:46:26 > 0:46:30Joyce is the only sewer attempting a multi-panelled skirt.
0:46:30 > 0:46:32Eight godets, cut from stretch jersey fabric,
0:46:32 > 0:46:35should give the skirt volume.
0:46:35 > 0:46:37How many different bits have you had to cut out?
0:46:37 > 0:46:39One, two, three, four, five, six,
0:46:39 > 0:46:40seven, eight, nine, ten,
0:46:40 > 0:46:43- 11, 12.- 12!
0:46:43 > 0:46:46Look, at the moment, we're there.
0:46:46 > 0:46:49- So that's your skirt so far?- Yes.
0:46:49 > 0:46:52I don't want anyone to panic, but how long have you got?
0:46:53 > 0:46:56Sewers, you have one hour left!
0:46:58 > 0:47:00It will go like that.
0:47:00 > 0:47:01Oh, great.
0:47:05 > 0:47:09My rolled hem is on a curve, so that makes it even more tricky.
0:47:09 > 0:47:12And this beautiful chiffon slips all over the place.
0:47:13 > 0:47:19I am attaching my bias binding, and I have got this much to go.
0:47:19 > 0:47:21So that's the finished effect on the pocket.
0:47:21 > 0:47:23So, happy with that.
0:47:23 > 0:47:24All my threads keep snapping
0:47:24 > 0:47:26when I'm trying to do my gathering stitch.
0:47:26 > 0:47:28This is the peplum.
0:47:28 > 0:47:32I love the effect that it gives at the bottom, that curved appearance.
0:47:32 > 0:47:37OK, I'm just going to have a look and see if it's currently even.
0:47:37 > 0:47:38It is.
0:47:40 > 0:47:43I'm just doing a double hem, where you fold the fabric up once
0:47:43 > 0:47:45and then you fold it over again,
0:47:45 > 0:47:47so all the raw edges are concealed on the inside.
0:47:50 > 0:47:52We could really carefully try this on,
0:47:52 > 0:47:53just make sure it's not madly off.
0:47:56 > 0:47:58This is my fear.
0:47:58 > 0:48:00Turn round, please.
0:48:00 > 0:48:03I have just added bias bind around the hem.
0:48:03 > 0:48:05Because I'm trying to take out the blue in this fabric,
0:48:05 > 0:48:07I have the blue piping,
0:48:07 > 0:48:10and then the blue bias bind will just finish it off.
0:48:10 > 0:48:12Boys and girls, 20 minutes!
0:48:12 > 0:48:15Yes, I am drowning in a lot of net.
0:48:19 > 0:48:21Keep calm and sew on.
0:48:21 > 0:48:25# Soon I will be done with the troubles of the world
0:48:25 > 0:48:28# Soon I will be done with the troubles of the skirt. #
0:48:28 > 0:48:30Good, good, good.
0:48:30 > 0:48:32- With a good press...- Yeah. - ..I'm happy.
0:48:32 > 0:48:35- Oh, that's dangerous. - HE SIGHS
0:48:35 > 0:48:38I am very roughly evening up the hammer.
0:48:38 > 0:48:41The sort of look-and-chop approach to hemming.
0:48:48 > 0:48:50Five minutes, everybody! Five minutes.
0:48:50 > 0:48:51You're done.
0:48:51 > 0:48:53Oh, God, this is mad, this is mad.
0:48:53 > 0:48:55I've just got a horrible crease in this bit.
0:48:59 > 0:49:02God, actually, could you take it off for a second?
0:49:02 > 0:49:05- Duncan, you all right?- I need to turn it and stitch it, I think.
0:49:05 > 0:49:07I'm just really hoping this fits. Sorry.
0:49:10 > 0:49:13- HE SIGHS - OK...
0:49:13 > 0:49:15- That's lovely.- Yeah, really good.
0:49:15 > 0:49:17SHE SIGHS
0:49:19 > 0:49:21This is so ropey.
0:49:23 > 0:49:27Oh, God, everyone has made such amazing things.
0:49:27 > 0:49:29Yeah, get yourself tucked in nice and good.
0:49:29 > 0:49:32- Right, Duncan...- I know, I know. - ..you have one minute.
0:49:36 > 0:49:38- OK.- OK.
0:49:38 > 0:49:40OK, your time is up!
0:49:40 > 0:49:42THEY CLAP
0:49:43 > 0:49:46Well done.
0:49:46 > 0:49:47I'll drink my tea now.
0:49:47 > 0:49:50I'm sorry they didn't put a drop of whisky in it, frankly,
0:49:50 > 0:49:51but there we go.
0:49:51 > 0:49:54You're going to show your beautiful creations to the judges
0:49:54 > 0:49:57and then they're going to choose Garment of the Week. Yay!
0:49:57 > 0:50:00And ask somebody to leave, but let's not make a fuss about that.
0:50:01 > 0:50:07# I'm all dressed up with a broken heart...#
0:50:07 > 0:50:11Ten skirts, made to measure from scratch in just five hours.
0:50:17 > 0:50:19First impressions?
0:50:19 > 0:50:23I think it fits really well under her arse.
0:50:23 > 0:50:26- LAUGHTER - That was the intention.
0:50:26 > 0:50:31- It's sexy.- Is she making you blush? - SHE LAUGHS
0:50:31 > 0:50:33No, it is, it's a great fit.
0:50:33 > 0:50:36It's absolutely fitted, to the point that it flares out with that peplum.
0:50:36 > 0:50:40The height of that waistband, just the overall balance of it,
0:50:40 > 0:50:42is really nice.
0:50:42 > 0:50:45And the blues are really well matched in the print
0:50:45 > 0:50:47and the piping and the bias at the bottom.
0:50:47 > 0:50:49I think it's a knockout.
0:50:57 > 0:50:58That wide waistband, I really like.
0:50:58 > 0:51:01I think the depth of that band is spot-on.
0:51:01 > 0:51:04- And you've matched it here, haven't you?- Yeah.
0:51:04 > 0:51:07I think these seams could've been a little bit better pressed,
0:51:07 > 0:51:09and then almost you wouldn't see the join.
0:51:09 > 0:51:12I was very intrigued with the idea of turning an apron into a skirt
0:51:12 > 0:51:14and doing the wrapping.
0:51:14 > 0:51:16I think that works really well.
0:51:21 > 0:51:24First thing to say is that it moves really well.
0:51:24 > 0:51:26The waist looks like a good fit.
0:51:26 > 0:51:28In one way, it works fabulously, the fabric,
0:51:28 > 0:51:31it's got that weight to it and it moves,
0:51:31 > 0:51:33but we can't see the cut of your skirt.
0:51:38 > 0:51:40The overall effect is really good.
0:51:40 > 0:51:44My only criticism would be, this is a light, light fabric
0:51:44 > 0:51:46and it's going to wrinkle like mad.
0:51:46 > 0:51:49All of this pleating, it really needs a solid press.
0:51:55 > 0:51:59I'm really intrigued to see your pockets with the pleating.
0:51:59 > 0:52:01That's worked, hasn't it?
0:52:01 > 0:52:04There's too much fabric here. You haven't moved it round evenly.
0:52:04 > 0:52:06There is a rise and fall in that bottom hem.
0:52:06 > 0:52:09The big difficulty with a circle skirt
0:52:09 > 0:52:11is keeping it level all the way round.
0:52:19 > 0:52:21I love your spotty flock fabric.
0:52:21 > 0:52:23I also like the fact that you've lined your spots
0:52:23 > 0:52:26up right down the centre front, which I think is really important.
0:52:26 > 0:52:28But you haven't on the back, have you?
0:52:28 > 0:52:31And it really, really jumps out at you.
0:52:42 > 0:52:44First things first, shall we talk about the fit?
0:52:44 > 0:52:47Shall we talk about the flounce, cos it hits me in the eye?
0:52:47 > 0:52:50It's a very, very difficult thing to do,
0:52:50 > 0:52:53to roll a hem on such a delicate fabric.
0:52:53 > 0:52:55It's a bit lumpy and bumpy.
0:52:55 > 0:52:58I think it's a very good fit there, it's a good fit on the seat.
0:52:58 > 0:53:02My big thing is just the point at which this flounce finishes.
0:53:02 > 0:53:04I think it would have been way better
0:53:04 > 0:53:06if it had gone all the way round.
0:53:06 > 0:53:09It's almost like you've got a front and then a different back.
0:53:09 > 0:53:11Very fair comment.
0:53:16 > 0:53:19- The overall impression is fantastic. - Yes.
0:53:19 > 0:53:22What I particularly like is the way the grey and the black
0:53:22 > 0:53:24are showing through one another.
0:53:24 > 0:53:27The silver highlights the edge. That works well.
0:53:27 > 0:53:30The way that you've balanced the silver of the binding
0:53:30 > 0:53:35with the chunky, oversized metal zip, I think shows, A - confidence,
0:53:35 > 0:53:38and, B - a thought about the coherence of the whole thing.
0:53:38 > 0:53:40You've shown your style and your personality
0:53:40 > 0:53:43- in this skirt, definitely. - Thank you.
0:53:53 > 0:53:55I think this fabric is really pretty.
0:53:55 > 0:53:57I think it does work, but where I am a little concerned,
0:53:57 > 0:54:00- it is a bit loose on the waist. - Yeah.
0:54:00 > 0:54:02Can you see how it's jutting out like that?
0:54:02 > 0:54:05If it had been shaped, it would have sat closer to the body.
0:54:05 > 0:54:08The major thing, I think, is the uneven hem.
0:54:08 > 0:54:11You did it quickly and you did it freehand, you've just got to make
0:54:11 > 0:54:14sure it's absolutely perfect, cos these things matter.
0:54:25 > 0:54:28I think it's not the most complicated skirt,
0:54:28 > 0:54:31but you've executed it extremely well.
0:54:31 > 0:54:33I love the choice of fabric.
0:54:33 > 0:54:35Actually, it's got a bit of stretch in.
0:54:35 > 0:54:38- And you lost your yoke pattern, didn't you?- Yes.
0:54:38 > 0:54:42That's stressful for you, but you have managed to make it work.
0:54:42 > 0:54:46I think the fit's really good. It's hugging all the way round.
0:54:46 > 0:54:52In terms of level, it's near enough bang on, so very well done on that.
0:54:52 > 0:54:54Thank you.
0:54:54 > 0:54:57So you all did brilliantly, a huge well done.
0:54:57 > 0:55:01Go and have a group cuddle, and then, when you come back,
0:55:01 > 0:55:06Patrick and Esme will announce the Garment of the Week, yay,
0:55:06 > 0:55:09but then will sadly choose somebody to leave the Sewing Bee.
0:55:14 > 0:55:17I'm not ready to leave. I don't think anybody wants to leave.
0:55:17 > 0:55:20I really want to stay, just to prove to them that I can finish something.
0:55:20 > 0:55:23'I'm just really happy that I managed to make a skirt.'
0:55:23 > 0:55:26The longer I'm here, I'll keep learning and I hope that
0:55:26 > 0:55:28I'll just keep getting better.
0:55:28 > 0:55:32I think Josh has probably rescued himself with what I think is
0:55:32 > 0:55:34a really competent piece of sewing.
0:55:34 > 0:55:37It fitted well, the hem was great.
0:55:37 > 0:55:38Tracey's overall...
0:55:38 > 0:55:42I mean, I think we both agree that we do not love this.
0:55:42 > 0:55:44But Duncan's lacked ambition.
0:55:44 > 0:55:47And then we placed Tracey in the middle for this one.
0:55:47 > 0:55:48It was pretty well done.
0:55:48 > 0:55:50Duncan did a good job of matching the pattern,
0:55:50 > 0:55:53but some of the overall finish let him down.
0:55:53 > 0:55:55This is Tracey's. We've got this puckering here
0:55:55 > 0:55:58and the hem was uneven.
0:55:58 > 0:56:01Duncan's, the fabric's pretty, the hem's very uneven
0:56:01 > 0:56:03and he chopped it by eye.
0:56:03 > 0:56:05Well, that didn't work.
0:56:05 > 0:56:08I think it's tough to call between the two.
0:56:08 > 0:56:11- We probably need to have a... - Confab.
0:56:16 > 0:56:20First, the judges are going to reveal their Garment of the Week,
0:56:20 > 0:56:22so this is the good bit.
0:56:22 > 0:56:24Patrick, reveal.
0:56:24 > 0:56:27Our Garment of the Week this week is...
0:56:29 > 0:56:31THEY CHEER
0:56:32 > 0:56:38And the reason we chose it was fit, finish and fabric.
0:56:38 > 0:56:41- Thank you.- Now the horrible bit,
0:56:41 > 0:56:45because we've just met you and we don't want any of you to leave.
0:56:45 > 0:56:47The judges have deliberated.
0:56:47 > 0:56:52It was not easy, and the first person leaving the Sewing Bee is...
0:56:58 > 0:57:00It's Duncan. THEY GASP
0:57:00 > 0:57:02Sorry! I'm sorry.
0:57:04 > 0:57:06It's fine. It's fair.
0:57:06 > 0:57:10'Everyone else is just so talented. I did my best.'
0:57:10 > 0:57:13The second challenge, that's where maybe
0:57:13 > 0:57:15I feel that I could have done something different.
0:57:15 > 0:57:17- Oh, thanks.- You've been brilliant.
0:57:17 > 0:57:19It was a difficult decision, as always.
0:57:19 > 0:57:21'It's sad that anybody has to leave
0:57:21 > 0:57:24'and nobody wants to be the one who goes home on the first week,'
0:57:24 > 0:57:26but he's done fantastically well to get this far.
0:57:26 > 0:57:29- Let me give you a hug. - Oh, thank you.
0:57:29 > 0:57:33'I found sending Duncan home really, really hard.'
0:57:33 > 0:57:36If Duncan were one of my students, I would say, "Sew more,"
0:57:36 > 0:57:40cos when you sew, you learn how a garment is constructed.
0:57:40 > 0:57:44You always get better. The more you do, the better you get at it.
0:57:44 > 0:57:47I know that it was the last challenge for me
0:57:47 > 0:57:49that actually secured my place in the next week.
0:57:49 > 0:57:51I'm just so happy that I did what I did.
0:57:51 > 0:57:53I don't want anybody to go home!
0:57:53 > 0:57:56Really, really relieved, pleased,
0:57:56 > 0:57:59ecstatic, emotional, everything!
0:57:59 > 0:58:01Next week, I'm really going to go for it and really prove
0:58:01 > 0:58:04that I've deserved to get past week one.
0:58:04 > 0:58:06'There's incredible sewers in there,'
0:58:06 > 0:58:09so to be awarded Garment of the Week is overwhelming
0:58:09 > 0:58:11and just very humbling.
0:58:13 > 0:58:14I'm really proud,
0:58:14 > 0:58:16and I know my friends and family will be proud of me.
0:58:16 > 0:58:19I'm slightly disappointed for them, that's the thing.
0:58:19 > 0:58:21But, you know, it's been so much fun.
0:58:23 > 0:58:28On the next Sewing Bee, the sewers make children's clothes.
0:58:28 > 0:58:29There you go, little man.
0:58:29 > 0:58:31Patterns go pint-size...
0:58:31 > 0:58:33Oh, my God, these cuffs are teensy.
0:58:33 > 0:58:35..alterations get slippery...
0:58:35 > 0:58:37Come on!
0:58:37 > 0:58:40- ..and they get worked up over wool. - Ooh!
0:58:40 > 0:58:43But who will get Garment of the Week?
0:58:43 > 0:58:45The pressure is on.
0:58:45 > 0:58:47And who will be the next to leave? SHE GASPS
0:58:47 > 0:58:49- This has got to come off. - CLAUDIA SCREAMS