International Week

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0:00:02 > 0:00:04As we enter our fourth week, our magnificent seven sewers

0:00:04 > 0:00:08are about to tackle techniques and fabrics from all over the world.

0:00:08 > 0:00:12The Great British Sewing Bee is going international.

0:00:12 > 0:00:13At the last sewing bee...

0:00:13 > 0:00:15I haven't got a bloody clue.

0:00:15 > 0:00:17..things got a little bit 50 Shades..

0:00:17 > 0:00:19At my age, I should know better.

0:00:19 > 0:00:21..as the sewers got their hands on lingerie.

0:00:21 > 0:00:24How can that fit on someone's boob?

0:00:24 > 0:00:27Charlotte won garment of the week for the first time...

0:00:27 > 0:00:29APPLAUSE

0:00:29 > 0:00:31..and after a disastrous Made-to-measure...

0:00:31 > 0:00:36- Jamie, isn't it a bit late for cutting out?- Yeah, it is.

0:00:36 > 0:00:37..Jamie's time in the sewing room

0:00:37 > 0:00:39ended earlier than anyone was expecting.

0:00:39 > 0:00:42You've been a bright star, Jamie.

0:00:42 > 0:00:44Now the seven remaining sewers...

0:00:44 > 0:00:46Ooh-ah.

0:00:46 > 0:00:48..will travel the world...

0:00:48 > 0:00:49Oh, come on.

0:00:49 > 0:00:51..with a Pattern Challenge from the Far East...

0:00:51 > 0:00:53Origami here. I'm losing my marbles.

0:00:53 > 0:00:56..an Alteration that could last forever...

0:00:56 > 0:00:57Blimey. It goes on and on and on.

0:00:57 > 0:00:59..and a Made-to-measure...

0:00:59 > 0:01:00- Look, you're matching.- Yes -

0:01:00 > 0:01:02I thought I'd have a go with a piece, you see?

0:01:02 > 0:01:04..all the way from West Africa.

0:01:04 > 0:01:05Josh.

0:01:06 > 0:01:07How are you?

0:01:07 > 0:01:09I'm all right, yeah. How are you?

0:01:26 > 0:01:28# Come fly with me

0:01:28 > 0:01:32# Let's fly, let's fly away. #

0:01:32 > 0:01:36My tactic for this week is not to overcomplicate things.

0:01:36 > 0:01:37Right, Joyce?

0:01:37 > 0:01:39I'm sorting myself out.

0:01:39 > 0:01:42I am actually going to go more simple

0:01:42 > 0:01:45but try and present a perfect garment.

0:01:45 > 0:01:47- Look what I've found. - An unpicker, Joyce.

0:01:47 > 0:01:49Well, I've been using my little one all this time.

0:01:49 > 0:01:51Not that I've used it a lot, you understand.

0:01:51 > 0:01:52I think mine's gone blunt.

0:01:52 > 0:01:54LAUGHTER

0:01:54 > 0:01:57I never thought I would be the last man standing.

0:01:57 > 0:02:00I need to start climbing up the ladder in the first two challenges.

0:02:00 > 0:02:03They are the ones that I have struggled with every week.

0:02:03 > 0:02:04We are all on a knife edge.

0:02:04 > 0:02:07Everybody is good. All it takes is one bad day

0:02:07 > 0:02:09and any of us could be leaving.

0:02:09 > 0:02:10Good morning, sewers.

0:02:10 > 0:02:16Now, this week each challenge focuses on a different country

0:02:16 > 0:02:17or a different culture.

0:02:17 > 0:02:20- Feeling OK so far?- No.- OK.

0:02:20 > 0:02:23Quite a lot of shaking heads. All right.

0:02:23 > 0:02:25Patrick, what do you have for them?

0:02:25 > 0:02:26I'll hand you out a pattern.

0:02:26 > 0:02:28A Chinese top.

0:02:28 > 0:02:30This one is called a qipao.

0:02:30 > 0:02:32It's tight fitting,

0:02:32 > 0:02:34it's got a Mandarin collar

0:02:34 > 0:02:37and it's made with an elaborate brocade.

0:02:37 > 0:02:39Has anybody made anything like this before?

0:02:39 > 0:02:41No.

0:02:41 > 0:02:43Welcome to International Week.

0:02:43 > 0:02:47You have three hours and 45 minutes.

0:02:47 > 0:02:49Your time starts now.

0:02:49 > 0:02:51- Whoo! - LAUGHTER

0:02:51 > 0:02:53No running.

0:02:53 > 0:02:54Mine.

0:02:54 > 0:02:56Ha-ha-ha.

0:02:56 > 0:02:57If you're having that, I'm having red.

0:02:57 > 0:02:59- Do you want to swap?- Yeah!

0:03:00 > 0:03:03I've chosen this really nice teal brocade.

0:03:03 > 0:03:05I really love the colour.

0:03:05 > 0:03:07I've gone for green just because I think it looks really rich

0:03:07 > 0:03:09and, like, emerald green,

0:03:09 > 0:03:13although I'm sure my Chinese friend is going to be like, "No, red.

0:03:13 > 0:03:15"Red, prosperity." I think.

0:03:15 > 0:03:18Silk brocade has been worn in China since the Middle Ages.

0:03:18 > 0:03:21Its combination of fine silk

0:03:21 > 0:03:24and gold thread demands very skilful sewing.

0:03:24 > 0:03:27I have worked brocade before and it just frays like mad.

0:03:28 > 0:03:30Why International Week?

0:03:30 > 0:03:32Well, we are surrounded in this country

0:03:32 > 0:03:34by clothes from all over the world,

0:03:34 > 0:03:36and so many of these pieces of clothing we see every day

0:03:36 > 0:03:39have inspired and transformed Western clothing.

0:03:39 > 0:03:41Let's talk about this top.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44It looks incredibly tricky.

0:03:44 > 0:03:45It will be tricky.

0:03:45 > 0:03:47It's asymmetrical.

0:03:47 > 0:03:49This edge is not on the grain

0:03:49 > 0:03:52so they have to be really careful how they sew that

0:03:52 > 0:03:53and don't stretch it.

0:03:53 > 0:03:55This collar looks tricky.

0:03:55 > 0:03:56They have to sew this Mandarin collar

0:03:56 > 0:03:58with complete and utter precision.

0:03:58 > 0:04:01Yes, it will be really obvious if it is not the same at the front.

0:04:01 > 0:04:04It will be really obvious if it doesn't fit here

0:04:04 > 0:04:06and that has to be beautifully top-stitched.

0:04:06 > 0:04:10We are looking for these panels to fit flush to the mannequin.

0:04:10 > 0:04:13And the darts have to be on the same level

0:04:13 > 0:04:15and they mustn't be what I call "poky".

0:04:15 > 0:04:18OK, so it's a closely fitted,

0:04:18 > 0:04:20really quite complex garment

0:04:20 > 0:04:22made with fabric that frays.

0:04:22 > 0:04:24- Yes.- Correct.- Wow.

0:04:25 > 0:04:28Never made a Chinese top before. I have worn one.

0:04:28 > 0:04:31It is something that, hopefully, I would like to wear

0:04:31 > 0:04:33if I get the opportunity afterwards.

0:04:33 > 0:04:37The qipao style top pattern contains seven separate pieces.

0:04:37 > 0:04:41Darts are sewn into the main front and back pieces to give shape.

0:04:41 > 0:04:45The two front panels are stitched to the back at the shoulders.

0:04:45 > 0:04:47An invisible zip is added to the right seam

0:04:47 > 0:04:50and a Mandarin collar is attached to the neck.

0:04:51 > 0:04:54This is the first time I have worked with brocade.

0:04:54 > 0:04:56The fabric is quite slippery

0:04:56 > 0:05:00so I've decided to use my pattern weights to put it down

0:05:00 > 0:05:02in the right places, and then I'll pin it.

0:05:02 > 0:05:05I went for the double pins and weights option

0:05:05 > 0:05:08just to be really sure nothing's moving!

0:05:08 > 0:05:11There is two darts in the back and four in the front,

0:05:11 > 0:05:13which is quite a few darts.

0:05:13 > 0:05:18I am tailor-tacking, so that I know where my darts need to go.

0:05:18 > 0:05:21Tailor's chalk rubs off shiny fabric

0:05:21 > 0:05:23so the sewers need to find other ways

0:05:23 > 0:05:26to mark the crucial positioning of the darts.

0:05:26 > 0:05:29So, I'm just marking the dots of the dart with the pins.

0:05:31 > 0:05:33Mark out all the different points in dot to dot,

0:05:33 > 0:05:35join it together, make a dart.

0:05:35 > 0:05:38I'm just go to join up the dots with a pen

0:05:38 > 0:05:39so I can see what I need to do.

0:05:39 > 0:05:41It's very important that the darts are even.

0:05:41 > 0:05:43Because this is such a tight-fitting garment,

0:05:43 > 0:05:46if they're not, then it will just look skew-whiff.

0:05:49 > 0:05:53Once marked, the fabric in the dart is folded in on itself

0:05:53 > 0:05:55and secured with a line of stitching.

0:05:55 > 0:05:58The darts are tricky

0:05:58 > 0:06:02only because you've got to have a nice, soft taper.

0:06:02 > 0:06:04You can't have a lump either end.

0:06:06 > 0:06:08I'm leaving the pins in.

0:06:08 > 0:06:10Sometimes I take them out so I don't sew over them,

0:06:10 > 0:06:12but in this case I'd rather break a needle.

0:06:13 > 0:06:15Take out my tailor's tack.

0:06:15 > 0:06:17With a press, that's the first one done.

0:06:17 > 0:06:20- Have you put the darts in? - I have one dart in.

0:06:20 > 0:06:22- Have you ever done anything like this before?- No.

0:06:22 > 0:06:24I've never done anything like this before.

0:06:24 > 0:06:26I haven't worked with this type of fabric before.

0:06:26 > 0:06:29Now, I don't want to bring up last week's Pattern Challenge...

0:06:29 > 0:06:31- Yes, you do. - Yeah, I can't help myself,

0:06:31 > 0:06:35but is it important to you that this week you do well?

0:06:35 > 0:06:36Absolutely, yeah.

0:06:36 > 0:06:39It's important that I finish and I do well.

0:06:41 > 0:06:44But not everyone's making progress.

0:06:44 > 0:06:46- Are you all right?- I'm OK, yeah.

0:06:46 > 0:06:51It's just taking me a while to cut out and transfer the markings

0:06:51 > 0:06:52and stuff like that.

0:06:52 > 0:06:54- So you haven't done any sewing at all?- No.

0:06:54 > 0:06:58- I want you to get a move on. - Yeah, I know.

0:06:58 > 0:07:01Is it bad that I am saying that? It's because I love you, Josh.

0:07:01 > 0:07:04I know. I know. It's my trouble, you see?

0:07:04 > 0:07:06Do you need this situation?

0:07:06 > 0:07:09- Yeah.- Shall I bring it? - Yes, please, yeah.- All right.

0:07:09 > 0:07:12- This is a beautiful fabric. - Thank you.

0:07:12 > 0:07:15# I'd love to get you

0:07:15 > 0:07:19# On a slow boat to China... #

0:07:19 > 0:07:22Once the darts are finished,

0:07:22 > 0:07:25there's even more precision required around the neckline.

0:07:25 > 0:07:27Is this bias binding?

0:07:27 > 0:07:28This is bias binding.

0:07:28 > 0:07:30You are brilliant, Joyce.

0:07:30 > 0:07:32I've just been at Josh's station.

0:07:32 > 0:07:35He has literally just opened the pattern.

0:07:35 > 0:07:37The bound asymmetrical neckline

0:07:37 > 0:07:40is the most noticeable part of the garment.

0:07:40 > 0:07:42The binding appears to go here.

0:07:42 > 0:07:45It just takes a lot of concentration to make sure

0:07:45 > 0:07:48that you're pinning the right sides together.

0:07:48 > 0:07:52Any flaws here and the classic lines of the qipao will be ruined.

0:07:52 > 0:07:53Don't stretch it.

0:07:53 > 0:07:57- See that row of stitching there? - Yes.- That holds it.

0:07:57 > 0:07:59- OK, but it's not pulled?- Oh, no.

0:07:59 > 0:08:02So I need to trim all this excess away

0:08:02 > 0:08:04and then I'll be able to fold it around like that

0:08:04 > 0:08:06and that's how it should finish off,

0:08:06 > 0:08:08so you won't be able to see any of the bias binding.

0:08:08 > 0:08:10It will be a nice clean edge.

0:08:10 > 0:08:15While most of the sewers are using the machine to attach their binding,

0:08:15 > 0:08:16Joyce has other ideas.

0:08:16 > 0:08:19My hand stitching is nothing compared to Charlotte's

0:08:19 > 0:08:22but it's on and it's secure.

0:08:22 > 0:08:25So now I'm concentrating on this little bit here.

0:08:25 > 0:08:28- Good morning.- Good morning. - Good morning, Jade.

0:08:28 > 0:08:32- How are you getting on? - Good. I've got my binding.

0:08:32 > 0:08:33Show me the...

0:08:33 > 0:08:35So, you sew it on and then it says fold it in half

0:08:35 > 0:08:38- and then top-stitch it on. - And what does it say halfway down?

0:08:38 > 0:08:41"Fold the binding to the wrong side of the garment

0:08:41 > 0:08:43"and press the pin in place."

0:08:43 > 0:08:46Oh, so the binding goes actually on the whole of the inside, does it?

0:08:46 > 0:08:47What does it say?

0:08:49 > 0:08:51- I did read it!- Did you?

0:08:51 > 0:08:54- Yes, I did read it.- Yeah? - Obviously, er...- Yeah.

0:08:54 > 0:08:56We wrote it in English, too.

0:08:56 > 0:08:57Are you sure?

0:08:57 > 0:08:59The binding goes along the inside.

0:08:59 > 0:09:01I've just learnt that.

0:09:01 > 0:09:04- The penny is dropping all around the room.- Mm.

0:09:04 > 0:09:07- What are we doing?- I did that. - Yeah.- But it doesn't.

0:09:07 > 0:09:10- It goes on at the inside. - Oh, it doesn't?

0:09:10 > 0:09:12Oh, all that hand-sewing for nothing.

0:09:12 > 0:09:13Oh, I prefer it showing.

0:09:13 > 0:09:18- Yeah, same. I was proper happy with my top stitching.- Dare I leave it?

0:09:18 > 0:09:20Isn't that more interesting?

0:09:20 > 0:09:21I'm going to leave it.

0:09:21 > 0:09:24Honestly, I like that.

0:09:24 > 0:09:26So I'll be marked down, but...

0:09:28 > 0:09:30"With the right sides together,

0:09:30 > 0:09:31"pin and sew the two front panels

0:09:31 > 0:09:33"to the back panel at the shoulder seam."

0:09:33 > 0:09:36The pattern demands that the qipao closes from left to right.

0:09:36 > 0:09:39I'm just trying to make sure I am crossing the right piece

0:09:39 > 0:09:40over the right piece.

0:09:40 > 0:09:44The Chinese considered a right to left fastening barbaric.

0:09:44 > 0:09:47I'm just trying to work it out in my own mind.

0:09:47 > 0:09:48Origami here.

0:09:48 > 0:09:50I'm losing my marbles.

0:09:50 > 0:09:52Right. Okey dokey.

0:09:52 > 0:09:56So many parts to it, with the left front, the right front, the upper...

0:09:56 > 0:09:58It's just very confusing to keep track.

0:10:02 > 0:10:05I honestly don't... I'm not on track,

0:10:05 > 0:10:08but I don't think I'm a mile behind where I want to be.

0:10:08 > 0:10:10That goes over there,

0:10:10 > 0:10:13that goes over there. OK.

0:10:13 > 0:10:15Right, next.

0:10:15 > 0:10:18Oh, God, the zip.

0:10:18 > 0:10:20We've seen some of them insert invisible zips,

0:10:20 > 0:10:22but it's never been in a Pattern Challenge before.

0:10:22 > 0:10:25Can we talk about this one? Because this one looks tricky.

0:10:25 > 0:10:27Will you open it for me and describe, Esme?

0:10:27 > 0:10:28Right.

0:10:28 > 0:10:33So what's important here is that this invisible zip

0:10:33 > 0:10:36goes up to this point here.

0:10:36 > 0:10:39So it won't go all the way to the top, so they're going to have

0:10:39 > 0:10:44to put the invisible zip in first and then put this on.

0:10:44 > 0:10:47It's just more the positioning of the zipper, I think, on this one.

0:10:47 > 0:10:48If you look at the back of it,

0:10:48 > 0:10:52the zip notch is quite far down in comparison to the top,

0:10:52 > 0:10:55so I don't know what way it sits, to be honest.

0:10:59 > 0:11:03Where do you line-up the top of the zip? On the left, front?

0:11:03 > 0:11:06I think you've got to do it to that side of the zipper tape,

0:11:06 > 0:11:09so that when it all gets turned the right way out,

0:11:09 > 0:11:11you won't see the edge of the zipper tape.

0:11:11 > 0:11:12Oh, I see.

0:11:15 > 0:11:18- Happy with it so far?- Erm...hm.

0:11:18 > 0:11:19Got a bit confused with the zip.

0:11:19 > 0:11:21Well, it should finish up here.

0:11:21 > 0:11:24I know, and I tried to measure it out but it just didn't...

0:11:24 > 0:11:29- Because all of a sudden now, this is going somewhere very different.- Oh.

0:11:29 > 0:11:32I measured it out and everything, and it didn't really work like that.

0:11:32 > 0:11:36- I think you might have to just... - Make do.- ..press on.- Oh, no, right.

0:11:36 > 0:11:41Let me see. That goes like so, I hope.

0:11:43 > 0:11:48- Jade, the side with the zip...- Yeah? - Because I'm totally confused there.

0:11:48 > 0:11:51I would have left that open on the armhole.

0:11:51 > 0:11:53- And it doesn't say to in the pattern.- No.

0:11:53 > 0:11:56Doesn't that make sense to leave it open there?

0:11:58 > 0:11:59One hour left...

0:11:59 > 0:12:02on your first International Challenge.

0:12:02 > 0:12:04This is where the garment's going to start,

0:12:04 > 0:12:09- hopefully, coming together. - This is a Mandarin collar.

0:12:09 > 0:12:11Never done one of these before.

0:12:11 > 0:12:14It's a little collar that just stands up all the way round

0:12:14 > 0:12:15close to the neck.

0:12:15 > 0:12:18You've got to iron up this edge a centimetre all the way along.

0:12:18 > 0:12:21Ow! Without burning your fingers.

0:12:21 > 0:12:23Hah! It's hot, it's hot, it's hot.

0:12:23 > 0:12:26The thing they're going to be looking for is that it's the same.

0:12:26 > 0:12:28Got to try and make sure I keep it really symmetrical.

0:12:28 > 0:12:33I've sewn the collar together and pressed under the underside.

0:12:33 > 0:12:36And I'm now attaching it to the neck.

0:12:36 > 0:12:39That gets pressed it like that. Duh-duh.

0:12:39 > 0:12:41So that's where we're at at the moment.

0:12:41 > 0:12:43My collar is going in.

0:12:43 > 0:12:46Whether it's a good collar or a bad collar, I've no idea -

0:12:46 > 0:12:48I've never made one of these before.

0:12:51 > 0:12:56I think I'm handling it OK. OK, that's that bit done.

0:12:56 > 0:12:57Showing the armhole facings,

0:12:57 > 0:13:00just catching them at top and bottom shoulder seams.

0:13:00 > 0:13:03Just so they don't all pop out like that, look, see?

0:13:03 > 0:13:05Normally you'd sew it all the way round.

0:13:05 > 0:13:08Half an hour left, sewers, half an hour left.

0:13:08 > 0:13:09We've only got half an hour left,

0:13:09 > 0:13:12so we're not sewing it all the way around.

0:13:12 > 0:13:14I'm just finding the middle point of the collar.

0:13:14 > 0:13:17Then, when I find the middle point of the neckline,

0:13:17 > 0:13:20I know how much ease is going to have to go in either side.

0:13:20 > 0:13:21Oh, come on.

0:13:21 > 0:13:24- Get your boobies out the way! - Do you need a hand, Charlotte?

0:13:24 > 0:13:26I can't get it on... Yes, please.

0:13:26 > 0:13:27If you have a minute.

0:13:29 > 0:13:33- I can help squeeze your shoulders. - You squeeze my shoulders.

0:13:33 > 0:13:36- There we go. There we go.- Phew!

0:13:36 > 0:13:38Seriously, imagine actually having to...

0:13:38 > 0:13:39- Did I undo the zip? - Have you undone the zip?

0:13:39 > 0:13:42- I haven't undone the bloody zip! - That helps, doesn't it?

0:13:42 > 0:13:44What a good idea if I undid the zip.

0:13:44 > 0:13:47The zip is undone.

0:13:47 > 0:13:49I stretched out my neckline.

0:13:50 > 0:13:54Can do nothing about that. Shouldn't have looked.

0:13:54 > 0:13:57I just put my top on my mannequin and I realised

0:13:57 > 0:14:00I stretched out the front edge, so I'm a bit annoyed about that.

0:14:00 > 0:14:02It's stretched out because I didn't do the stay stitching.

0:14:02 > 0:14:04Because I didn't read the pattern properly.

0:14:04 > 0:14:07The judges are so going to notice.

0:14:07 > 0:14:11- 15 minutes left.- Right, let's do it.

0:14:11 > 0:14:13Let's get the old frogging on.

0:14:13 > 0:14:15Frogging is an ornamental fastening

0:14:15 > 0:14:19traditionally used on Chinese garments instead of buttons.

0:14:19 > 0:14:21- Look, isn't that pretty? - That's so pretty!

0:14:21 > 0:14:23Yes, I thought so.

0:14:23 > 0:14:24You know where the frogs go

0:14:24 > 0:14:27because there's actually a marking on the pattern.

0:14:27 > 0:14:28It's not made easier

0:14:28 > 0:14:31by the mannequin being a lot taller than me.

0:14:31 > 0:14:34I love what hand sewing does for a garment,

0:14:34 > 0:14:36I just bloody hate doing it.

0:14:38 > 0:14:40It just really needs a press, but I don't think I'll have time.

0:14:40 > 0:14:44- One more.- I've run out of thread.

0:14:44 > 0:14:48- Oh, I'm so annoyed.- What's the hem?

0:14:48 > 0:14:51- Just a single fold?- I'm doing it twice because it's just such a mess.

0:14:51 > 0:14:53Look at the bottom of it now.

0:14:53 > 0:14:55SHE LAUGHS

0:14:55 > 0:14:57See, I've got threads everywhere.

0:15:00 > 0:15:03Never ideal to sew a hem in a rush. Ever.

0:15:03 > 0:15:05Tracey's happy! Are you done?

0:15:05 > 0:15:09- Yeah, I think so.- Tracey, shout for me "two minutes".- Two minutes.

0:15:09 > 0:15:11Are we all done?

0:15:11 > 0:15:14No, that was too nice, you have to do it with slightly more aggression.

0:15:14 > 0:15:15Just two minutes!

0:15:15 > 0:15:18A shock you had to say my name here, look.

0:15:19 > 0:15:21Two minutes, blimey.

0:15:26 > 0:15:29I don't how you work this contraption.

0:15:29 > 0:15:30Right, just ease it over.

0:15:34 > 0:15:35OK, the challenge is over.

0:15:37 > 0:15:40- Scissors down, scissors down. - My hands are here.

0:15:40 > 0:15:44Take your mannequins over to the judges.

0:15:44 > 0:15:46Mine's had a drink.

0:15:51 > 0:15:53Seven qipao tops made from scratch -

0:15:53 > 0:15:55but what will Esme and Patrick

0:15:55 > 0:15:59make of the first garments of International Week?

0:15:59 > 0:16:02Angeline, you're up first. Please bring your top forward.

0:16:08 > 0:16:10- It's a little bit tight.- Mm-hm.

0:16:10 > 0:16:13It could have been because on each seam you took too much

0:16:13 > 0:16:16- on the four darts and the two seams. - Mm-hm.

0:16:16 > 0:16:17Let's undo here.

0:16:17 > 0:16:19That's pretty good.

0:16:19 > 0:16:22I think this could have been pressed a bit better.

0:16:22 > 0:16:25And can you see how this is slightly baggy here?

0:16:25 > 0:16:28That collar is a little square, and that one's a little round,

0:16:28 > 0:16:30which is throwing me off a little bit.

0:16:30 > 0:16:33It's all there, it just lacks a little finesse.

0:16:40 > 0:16:45The front of this is really smooth and flat. The collar looks even.

0:16:47 > 0:16:48That's in well.

0:16:48 > 0:16:50All the important bits are right,

0:16:50 > 0:16:52all the darts are in the right place.

0:16:52 > 0:16:55The armholes look really neat and smooth.

0:16:55 > 0:16:59It's a really clean, crisp, precise piece of sewing.

0:16:59 > 0:17:02- There's not much I can really say to fault it.- Thank you.

0:17:02 > 0:17:04- You've done well.- Thank you.

0:17:13 > 0:17:16So, the first thing that strikes me

0:17:16 > 0:17:19is that you've taking your own path to finishing this edge.

0:17:19 > 0:17:21Honestly, I misread the pattern.

0:17:21 > 0:17:25I was actually going to come back to that and alter it, if I had time.

0:17:25 > 0:17:29OK. So, there's that. Let's have a look at your zip.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32Something is completely wro...

0:17:32 > 0:17:35You've done it your own way, you've given us a bound edge

0:17:35 > 0:17:37and you've given us a completely different opening,

0:17:37 > 0:17:40but actually you've done it quite nicely and it sits well.

0:17:40 > 0:17:43The darts are good, the collar looks good, but...

0:17:43 > 0:17:45It's not what we asked for.

0:17:45 > 0:17:48- You're infuriating, Joyce. - I'm sorry.

0:17:48 > 0:17:51- And...- I'm sorry. I did try.

0:17:55 > 0:17:59Let's have a look at the zip. OK, well, it goes up and down.

0:17:59 > 0:18:03But I think it can't quite be high enough. Did you go to the notch?

0:18:03 > 0:18:06I think I mismatched my notches.

0:18:06 > 0:18:10- So we've got one where the bosom will be coming through.- Yeah.

0:18:10 > 0:18:12You've sewn the darts nicely.

0:18:12 > 0:18:15But it's all in the right place, it's just...

0:18:16 > 0:18:18- Still waiting for that perfect sew.- Yeah.

0:18:24 > 0:18:27You haven't quite got this bit right.

0:18:27 > 0:18:31This zip should have finished higher up, which would have lifted that up.

0:18:31 > 0:18:35There's all sorts of stuff that's just pulling it out of shape here.

0:18:35 > 0:18:38And you've also overstretched this edge.

0:18:38 > 0:18:43Give it a little move around and it's starting to open up and gape.

0:18:48 > 0:18:50Judges.

0:18:50 > 0:18:53- Don't make me cry. - This one's not breaking.- I know.

0:18:53 > 0:18:57Because so much of it is so good, the darts are really neat,

0:18:57 > 0:19:01the seams are well together, and then you've just gone and done this.

0:19:01 > 0:19:05You've stretched that whole front edge so far out of shape that,

0:19:05 > 0:19:09really, it's kind of... barely wearable.

0:19:09 > 0:19:13Everything else is sewn really nicely and beautifully.

0:19:13 > 0:19:18- I'm really upset.- This just wasn't a good one for you.- No.

0:19:18 > 0:19:20Thank you very much, thank you, Charlotte.

0:19:28 > 0:19:31- WHISPERS:- Don't worry, it's only sewing, it's only sewing. It's OK.

0:19:38 > 0:19:40HE EXHALES

0:19:40 > 0:19:46- Right, Josh. Well, I don't think you've done badly at all.- Thank you.

0:19:46 > 0:19:50The collar is pretty even. The zip...

0:19:50 > 0:19:52..is pretty good as well.

0:19:52 > 0:19:54The most obvious bit, for me,

0:19:54 > 0:19:57is the way that it's sitting across the chest.

0:19:57 > 0:19:59And this is sitting really nicely across the chest.

0:19:59 > 0:20:01You've got your binding,

0:20:01 > 0:20:03the accuracy with which you've top-stitched it round there

0:20:03 > 0:20:04is really good.

0:20:04 > 0:20:07You were slow into it, but once you got there,

0:20:07 > 0:20:09it's a really good piece of sewing,

0:20:09 > 0:20:11so you should be very pleased with it.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14- Thank you very much. - Yes, you've done well.- Thank you.

0:20:16 > 0:20:20Esme and Patrick will now reveal who has mastered the qipao.

0:20:20 > 0:20:24In seventh place, after much philosophical rumination,

0:20:24 > 0:20:26it's Joyce.

0:20:26 > 0:20:30And only because you didn't follow the instructions.

0:20:30 > 0:20:32In sixth place is Jade.

0:20:32 > 0:20:36The front was wobbly, the zip wasn't in the right place.

0:20:36 > 0:20:39'Charlotte is fifth. Rumana is forth

0:20:39 > 0:20:41'and Angeline is third.'

0:20:41 > 0:20:43In second place...

0:20:45 > 0:20:49..is Josh. And well done, Josh.

0:20:49 > 0:20:52This is what it feels like to be in the top two!

0:20:52 > 0:20:54You did really well,

0:20:54 > 0:20:57and you were really panicked at the beginning but you pulled it back.

0:20:57 > 0:21:00- Thank you.- So, our winner is Tracy.

0:21:00 > 0:21:02APPLAUSE

0:21:02 > 0:21:06Very crisp, beautifully flat around the chest,

0:21:06 > 0:21:07a beautiful piece of sewing.

0:21:07 > 0:21:09Well, you can go and celebrate,

0:21:09 > 0:21:11make an enormous fuss of Josh, who...

0:21:11 > 0:21:14- Yeah.- Thank you.- Very well done. ..came second.

0:21:14 > 0:21:15And then when you come back,

0:21:15 > 0:21:19there will be the International Alteration Challenge.

0:21:19 > 0:21:24# I'm mad about the boy... #

0:21:24 > 0:21:26Well done, Tracy. Well done, Josh.

0:21:26 > 0:21:28I'm sorry I've kind of stole your thunder.

0:21:28 > 0:21:30You're all right, darling, you're all right.

0:21:30 > 0:21:33This feeling is as good a scoring the winning goal in football.

0:21:33 > 0:21:35Not that I get the chance to score very often.

0:21:35 > 0:21:37Absolutely chuffed to bits.

0:21:37 > 0:21:39Really, really thrilled with that.

0:21:39 > 0:21:42That wasn't my favourite judging experience.

0:21:42 > 0:21:44I think if Joyce hadn't had done a Joyce,

0:21:44 > 0:21:47I definitely would have been in seventh place.

0:21:47 > 0:21:49Everybody thinks I went off-piste,

0:21:49 > 0:21:53but there were only two things, you know, that I did differently!

0:21:58 > 0:22:01My favourite bit, I'm not sure it's yours,

0:22:01 > 0:22:04but are you ready for your International Week

0:22:04 > 0:22:05Alteration Challenge?

0:22:05 > 0:22:07As ready as we'll ever be.

0:22:07 > 0:22:08We're giving you a garment

0:22:08 > 0:22:12with literally yards of beautiful embroidered fabric.

0:22:14 > 0:22:15GASPS

0:22:15 > 0:22:17Hey!

0:22:17 > 0:22:19It is, of course, a sari -

0:22:19 > 0:22:21and from this we'd like you to make

0:22:21 > 0:22:23a piece of Eastern-inspired clothing.

0:22:23 > 0:22:26Remember, the cutting from the East

0:22:26 > 0:22:32is quite often based on a rectangle, a triangle or a square.

0:22:32 > 0:22:35- All right, judges, you have to leave now. Off you go.- Are you sure?

0:22:35 > 0:22:39- Yes, goodbye.- Goodbye. - The Monopoly board is set up.

0:22:39 > 0:22:42OK, you all have a selection of saris, choose your favourite.

0:22:42 > 0:22:46You've got an hour and a half. Your time starts now.

0:22:47 > 0:22:49- Reveal.- This one?

0:22:49 > 0:22:51Go for some of those.

0:22:51 > 0:22:54- I'll take this one.- That's a nice one.- Do you want that one?

0:22:54 > 0:22:57- That's gorgeous.- I want one with a big border, so I'm having this one.

0:22:57 > 0:23:00- I'm picking her up.- How do you even get these things undone?

0:23:00 > 0:23:01Charlotte!

0:23:01 > 0:23:03Blimey! It goes on and on and on.

0:23:03 > 0:23:06It just keeps going!

0:23:06 > 0:23:08The fabric is sheerer than I imagined.

0:23:08 > 0:23:11Consequently, I think it's got to be very gathered.

0:23:11 > 0:23:14You know, or else you'll see your knickers through it.

0:23:14 > 0:23:18This fabric is quite sheer. So you don't want something tight.

0:23:18 > 0:23:19What I'm looking for

0:23:19 > 0:23:23is just a sympathetic use of all of the bits of the sari fabric.

0:23:23 > 0:23:27How much plain fabric they have versus the embroidered sections,

0:23:27 > 0:23:29and how they use those, I think, will be important.

0:23:29 > 0:23:32The colours are vibrant, the embroidery is gorgeous,

0:23:32 > 0:23:35so we want them to make something absolutely fabulous.

0:23:35 > 0:23:40My plan is to make what we call an anarkali.

0:23:40 > 0:23:41Anarkali.

0:23:41 > 0:23:43I'm going to use the blouse bit of the sari,

0:23:43 > 0:23:45and then make these panels, stitch them together,

0:23:45 > 0:23:47and it gives a really flowy skirt.

0:23:47 > 0:23:49I'm going to stitch here for the armholes

0:23:49 > 0:23:51and have something flowing down,

0:23:51 > 0:23:54so it's going to be like a floaty, boxy top.

0:23:54 > 0:23:56- When my dad used to work in the Middle East...- Yeah?

0:23:56 > 0:23:58..he used to bring home lots of things like this.

0:23:58 > 0:24:00They're basically rectangles,

0:24:00 > 0:24:01so I'm going to use the border

0:24:01 > 0:24:03- on the sleeve and on the bottom. - Gorgeous.

0:24:03 > 0:24:07I want to make like a Turkish belly dancer's outfit.

0:24:07 > 0:24:09SHE HUMS

0:24:09 > 0:24:12With, like, baggy trousers and then a crop top.

0:24:12 > 0:24:14I think I might make some Israeli trousers.

0:24:14 > 0:24:17I'm making trousers like out of Aladdin.

0:24:17 > 0:24:19If I took that off...

0:24:21 > 0:24:22OK.

0:24:24 > 0:24:27Going to make loose trousers.

0:24:27 > 0:24:31One hour remaining to transform a sari.

0:24:31 > 0:24:32I need to measure the crotch distance,

0:24:32 > 0:24:34because you don't want your pants too tight,

0:24:34 > 0:24:36and I think I want them quite loose.

0:24:36 > 0:24:38I'm just measuring the length,

0:24:38 > 0:24:41just so that I can get the measurement spot on.

0:24:41 > 0:24:43I've cut it so that the top

0:24:43 > 0:24:46and the bottom of the trousers have this nice trim on it.

0:24:46 > 0:24:50I'm thinking about how wide actually I need the body part to be.

0:24:50 > 0:24:52I might make to fit me, never mind the dummy!

0:24:52 > 0:24:53SHE LAUGHS

0:24:53 > 0:24:55Then I can wear it.

0:24:57 > 0:24:59- Hello, darling.- Hello. - What are you making?

0:24:59 > 0:25:02I'm sewing these panels that make the skirt,

0:25:02 > 0:25:05- so it comes out in a flared skirt. - GASPS: Oh, look!

0:25:05 > 0:25:06That's so beautiful.

0:25:06 > 0:25:09I thought it'd be a real shame if we didn't do a sari.

0:25:09 > 0:25:11I've got loads at home, so it'll be really interesting

0:25:11 > 0:25:13to see what everyone comes up with,

0:25:13 > 0:25:14because then I can just refashion them.

0:25:14 > 0:25:18Maybe not my mum's wedding ones and things, but, you know...

0:25:18 > 0:25:20Sewers, you are halfway through.

0:25:21 > 0:25:25This is the little slit at the bottom of the side seam.

0:25:25 > 0:25:28Not the easiest thing in the world to sew,

0:25:28 > 0:25:30because the diamonds or whatever you call them

0:25:30 > 0:25:32keep stopping your needle.

0:25:32 > 0:25:35I'm just sewing the inseam of my trouser legs.

0:25:35 > 0:25:38Going really slowly over this big embroidered bit,

0:25:38 > 0:25:39because it's got little gems in it.

0:25:39 > 0:25:42Makes it less likely that you'll break a needle...

0:25:42 > 0:25:44I'm sewing in the sleeve and the side sleeve all in one,

0:25:44 > 0:25:47so it's like up and across.

0:25:47 > 0:25:50The sleeve when it's done will look like a big square.

0:25:50 > 0:25:53I'll just stretch the elastic as I sew it

0:25:53 > 0:25:55and then it should fit nicely around her waist.

0:25:56 > 0:25:59Doesn't quite meet over her hips.

0:25:59 > 0:26:02She has got quite an odd butt.

0:26:02 > 0:26:04Whilst his trousers ARE fitting,

0:26:04 > 0:26:07Josh still has another garment to make.

0:26:07 > 0:26:10I'm now trying to decide how I'm going to make my top.

0:26:10 > 0:26:11I want to use this,

0:26:11 > 0:26:13but I want it to be a little bit more revealing

0:26:13 > 0:26:16cos it is going to be a belly dancer top.

0:26:16 > 0:26:19Sewers, you have half an hour left,

0:26:19 > 0:26:23to change a sari into... something else.

0:26:25 > 0:26:27I'm gathering the trousers at the bottom,

0:26:27 > 0:26:31and these are the cuffs that they're going to go in.

0:26:31 > 0:26:33Have to make sure you can get your feet over it,

0:26:33 > 0:26:36and let's just hope it comes off

0:26:36 > 0:26:39and the judges forgive me for this morning.

0:26:39 > 0:26:41I might need to take the top in a little bit.

0:26:41 > 0:26:43I just want to check it fits...

0:26:43 > 0:26:46It'll be a disaster if it doesn't fit, which is kind of doesn't.

0:26:46 > 0:26:48Her butt is so big...

0:26:48 > 0:26:51But I'm just going to add a teeny-tiny panel,

0:26:51 > 0:26:54just from there to there.

0:26:54 > 0:26:55It doesn't fit!

0:26:55 > 0:26:57Oh... What to do?

0:26:57 > 0:26:59Will you do it on the other side?

0:26:59 > 0:27:01If I have time to do it on the other side.

0:27:01 > 0:27:03OK. So I need to undo this bit...

0:27:03 > 0:27:07Just going to make a gap in the seam, to open that up.

0:27:07 > 0:27:09There's triangles in the sari,

0:27:09 > 0:27:13so I'm just attaching the trimming at the base of the kimono.

0:27:13 > 0:27:15Can't touch this!

0:27:15 > 0:27:17- No, you can't. - This...is Hammer Time(!)

0:27:19 > 0:27:22This will be the sleeves for the belly dancer crop top thing.

0:27:24 > 0:27:26Look how beautiful this is!

0:27:26 > 0:27:28Are you making a waistband?

0:27:28 > 0:27:31No, I'm going to hide the horrible front.

0:27:31 > 0:27:34- So do a nice panel!- Exactly. - A bit like Esme's wearing today.

0:27:34 > 0:27:38So I've sewn to the inside of my waistband some casing,

0:27:38 > 0:27:41and I'm going to feed some elastic through and then sew it shut.

0:27:41 > 0:27:45I'm just sewing the elastic straight into the actual thing itself...

0:27:45 > 0:27:47I'm gathering the fabric into the bottom cuff -

0:27:47 > 0:27:52I've got to get a lot of fabric in a very small opening.

0:27:53 > 0:27:55You have ten minutes left, sewers!

0:27:55 > 0:27:56Oh, blimey.

0:27:56 > 0:27:59Just keep stitching, just keep stitching...

0:27:59 > 0:28:01Speed sewing is required.

0:28:05 > 0:28:06Sorry...

0:28:06 > 0:28:08Just hand-stitched this on.

0:28:08 > 0:28:09This is a secret,

0:28:09 > 0:28:10to hide the fact

0:28:10 > 0:28:14that I need to be able to get it onto the mannequin...

0:28:14 > 0:28:15I've not only used all of the trim,

0:28:15 > 0:28:19I was scraping to get the final bits for my cuffs.

0:28:19 > 0:28:22Got a bit of a big bum, this model...

0:28:23 > 0:28:24SIX minutes!

0:28:24 > 0:28:26Oh, shush, Claudia!

0:28:29 > 0:28:32Exactly what I was hoping for, puffy at the ankle...

0:28:33 > 0:28:35Ooh, I like that bit, I might have that on it.

0:28:35 > 0:28:38The panel obviously isn't an ideal thing to add in...

0:28:38 > 0:28:41Spotted on the little top that came with it,

0:28:41 > 0:28:44so I'm going to just hand-sew them on the front of there.

0:28:44 > 0:28:47Josh is the only person who's made TWO pieces.

0:28:47 > 0:28:48Good for Josh.

0:28:48 > 0:28:51Can't even thread the needle at the moment.

0:28:51 > 0:28:53One minute.

0:28:53 > 0:28:57There won't be a fastening on the back, because we haven't got time.

0:28:57 > 0:29:00I just think stitching is probably better than a pin in the back.

0:29:01 > 0:29:03Come on!

0:29:03 > 0:29:06- You'd wear that on the beach, wouldn't you?- Course I would!

0:29:09 > 0:29:11- Time's up!- That's it.

0:29:11 > 0:29:14Well done, everybody.

0:29:14 > 0:29:17All right, come on, guys. To the front, jiggle them around...

0:29:19 > 0:29:21Well done, love.

0:29:21 > 0:29:23Seven saris totally transformed -

0:29:23 > 0:29:26but what will the judges make of the sewers' attempts

0:29:26 > 0:29:28at Eastern-inspired alterations?

0:29:28 > 0:29:31MUSIC: Sweet Song Of India by The McGuire Sisters

0:29:33 > 0:29:37- Wow.- I'm absolutely delighted, these are genuinely fantastic.- Yeah.

0:29:37 > 0:29:39They fill the brief, hey?

0:29:39 > 0:29:41MUSIC: I Am The Walrus by Lord Sitar

0:29:43 > 0:29:45I think this looks great.

0:29:45 > 0:29:48- It's very clearly Eastern in its inspiration.- Yes.

0:29:48 > 0:29:50It's got a lovely shape to it.

0:29:50 > 0:29:53Fantastic use of the border here...

0:29:53 > 0:29:55and here, and on the bottom.

0:29:55 > 0:29:58- And we've got this little detail here.- This is lovely.

0:29:58 > 0:30:01- It's great!- I love this detail. - I mean, really well thought out.

0:30:06 > 0:30:09- We have some harem pants. - Yeah. I love these.

0:30:09 > 0:30:12I'd love to wear...something very similar!

0:30:13 > 0:30:15- Right!- Possibly even these ones in a quiet moment.

0:30:15 > 0:30:18Trousers are such a beautiful, full shape.

0:30:18 > 0:30:21And they've made a channel for the elastic to go in.

0:30:21 > 0:30:22The gathers are very even...

0:30:22 > 0:30:26I mean, these trousers just look absolutely spot on.

0:30:26 > 0:30:27I love 'em.

0:30:36 > 0:30:38- That's a kimono shape...- Yeah.

0:30:38 > 0:30:40..but they've cut it all in one.

0:30:40 > 0:30:42- So we've only got one seam here... - Yeah.

0:30:42 > 0:30:43Simple shapes.

0:30:43 > 0:30:45They've thought about

0:30:45 > 0:30:46how they've used the borders...

0:30:46 > 0:30:50Can you see we've got a V here and we've got a V here, as well?

0:30:50 > 0:30:53- Yeah.- So that's been really...

0:30:53 > 0:30:56- well thought about. - Is that the same both sides?- No.- No.

0:30:56 > 0:30:59Something's happened here where they've seamed the border

0:30:59 > 0:31:02and they've seamed it here, so obviously it wasn't long enough.

0:31:02 > 0:31:04They've run out of border, perhaps.

0:31:13 > 0:31:16So, again, we've got a drawstring trouser.

0:31:16 > 0:31:18This one not QUITE so good.

0:31:18 > 0:31:22And this person's used their top, and they've lengthened it...

0:31:22 > 0:31:24They've given us a lot in a very short space of time -

0:31:24 > 0:31:27I just think it's not quite as neat and tidy as some of the others...

0:31:27 > 0:31:30and it is just too small on the trousers.

0:31:36 > 0:31:38We've got elastic here...

0:31:38 > 0:31:41So they've done the same with the border.

0:31:41 > 0:31:43It's a bit snug around the seat.

0:31:43 > 0:31:45Oh... Hang on a minute.

0:31:45 > 0:31:46What's happened here?

0:31:46 > 0:31:48Well, obviously it was MUCH too small

0:31:48 > 0:31:50and they've had to insert a panel...?

0:31:50 > 0:31:52Maybe there wasn't enough material.

0:31:52 > 0:31:54If they'd inserted a panel on the other side

0:31:54 > 0:31:56we could have said it was jodhpurs.

0:32:02 > 0:32:04It's got a really nice shape to it,

0:32:04 > 0:32:06- all of these panels work extremely well...- Yes.

0:32:06 > 0:32:09I just feel that this is a little heavy.

0:32:09 > 0:32:11I quite like it.

0:32:11 > 0:32:13That's cos you're almost wearing it!

0:32:13 > 0:32:15Here's MY version.

0:32:15 > 0:32:17They obviously got inspired by me.

0:32:17 > 0:32:20Funnily enough, now I think about it...

0:32:20 > 0:32:23I like it, I think it gives it an accent.

0:32:23 > 0:32:25- It's pretty, isn't it?- It is. - The whole thing is...

0:32:25 > 0:32:27I think the whole thing works.

0:32:33 > 0:32:37Our second pair of very full harem-style pants.

0:32:37 > 0:32:39Which, again, I think are really pretty successful,

0:32:39 > 0:32:41I think the shape is fantastic on them.

0:32:41 > 0:32:44- They're very, very long, actually. - They're very long.

0:32:44 > 0:32:48- Can we get in?- No... Or is it just a band?

0:32:48 > 0:32:52It's almost like it's been sewn onto the stand. I think it has.

0:32:52 > 0:32:55- That is a drawback. Definitely.- Definitely!

0:32:55 > 0:32:58It's a stunning effect - but how do we get in?

0:33:00 > 0:33:03The judges will now rank the altered saris,

0:33:03 > 0:33:06starting with the least successful.

0:33:06 > 0:33:09Number seven, pink trousers.

0:33:09 > 0:33:10Oh, that's me.

0:33:10 > 0:33:14- The reason for this is they don't fit very well.- Mm.

0:33:14 > 0:33:18Sixth place, the turquoise harem pant.

0:33:18 > 0:33:22Joyce. They're a beautiful shape, they absolutely fulfil the brief -

0:33:22 > 0:33:23you just can't put 'em on.

0:33:23 > 0:33:25In fifth place is Josh...

0:33:25 > 0:33:27Angeline is fourth,

0:33:27 > 0:33:29and Rumana is third.

0:33:29 > 0:33:31In second place...

0:33:33 > 0:33:36..is the purple pants.

0:33:36 > 0:33:37Charlotte.

0:33:37 > 0:33:40- I want to see you wearing them! - Absolutely. I love them.

0:33:40 > 0:33:44You've grabbed this brief, you've used every bit to perfection...

0:33:44 > 0:33:46- Thanks.- Well done.- Thank you.

0:33:46 > 0:33:48In first place...

0:33:48 > 0:33:50is this, which is fabulous.

0:33:50 > 0:33:52Yay!

0:33:52 > 0:33:55Tracey! For the second time today...

0:33:55 > 0:33:57- A double first.- A double first.

0:33:57 > 0:33:59I think I'm getting the hang of this now!

0:34:00 > 0:34:04You've used the elements of the sari really nicely.

0:34:04 > 0:34:05Thank you.

0:34:05 > 0:34:09An enormous well done to all of you.

0:34:09 > 0:34:11Go home, eat something international,

0:34:11 > 0:34:13and we will see you back here tomorrow

0:34:13 > 0:34:16for the big Made-to-measure Challenge.

0:34:16 > 0:34:17Off you go.

0:34:17 > 0:34:19What a day!

0:34:19 > 0:34:22- Yeah, what a day.- Hey, superstar.

0:34:22 > 0:34:26To actually get two firsts is really more than I expected.

0:34:26 > 0:34:28Seriously, can I have yours?! Can I have it?

0:34:28 > 0:34:29SHE LAUGHS

0:34:29 > 0:34:31In terms of the first day

0:34:31 > 0:34:33this has definitely been my most successful -

0:34:33 > 0:34:36in fact you could probably say this has been

0:34:36 > 0:34:38my only successful first day!

0:34:38 > 0:34:41But I don't feel safe, in the slightest.

0:34:41 > 0:34:43- Well done.- That's good.

0:34:43 > 0:34:47Coming seventh and then sixth today is not my best day,

0:34:47 > 0:34:49and I feel rather despondent.

0:34:49 > 0:34:53So I'm going to have a very, very large glass of wine,

0:34:53 > 0:34:56and something to eat and watch a bit of telly.

0:35:02 > 0:35:05There's one challenge left in International Week.

0:35:05 > 0:35:08In just a few hours, someone will win Garment of the Week.

0:35:08 > 0:35:11And somebody else will have to leave the sewing room.

0:35:11 > 0:35:14For me there's only one person

0:35:14 > 0:35:17who's really stood out this week, and that's Tracey.

0:35:17 > 0:35:19Let's talk about Josh.

0:35:19 > 0:35:21He did really well on the Chinese top.

0:35:21 > 0:35:23He normally waits until the Made-to-measure

0:35:23 > 0:35:24before he pulls his finger out.

0:35:24 > 0:35:28Joyce, who had a brilliant week last week, almost came bottom in BOTH.

0:35:28 > 0:35:31- Is she in trouble?- She hadn't followed the pattern.- Yeah.

0:35:31 > 0:35:34Jade and Joyce are in the most precarious position.

0:35:34 > 0:35:37Unless she has a horrible disaster, Tracey is fine.

0:35:37 > 0:35:40But I don't think any of those others are absolutely safe at all.

0:35:40 > 0:35:44Everyone's future in the Sewing Bee now rests on their ability

0:35:44 > 0:35:46to make an international garment

0:35:46 > 0:35:48not to fit a mannequin, but a real person.

0:35:49 > 0:35:52- Hiya.- Hello, darling!

0:35:53 > 0:35:55Good morning, sewers!

0:35:55 > 0:35:57For your Made-to-measure Challenge

0:35:57 > 0:36:00the judges would love you to create a dress

0:36:00 > 0:36:02that's been inspired by West Africa.

0:36:02 > 0:36:06They've asked you to use a wax print fabric.

0:36:06 > 0:36:08You have five and a half hours.

0:36:08 > 0:36:11Enormous luck - your time starts now.

0:36:12 > 0:36:14Whilst the sewers have had a chance to practise

0:36:14 > 0:36:16their dresses at home...

0:36:16 > 0:36:18(She's getting naked.)

0:36:18 > 0:36:20..now they'll have to perfect the fit on their model,

0:36:20 > 0:36:23with their chosen West African fabric.

0:36:23 > 0:36:26Oh, I do like this fabric, I must confess.

0:36:27 > 0:36:30The fabric definitely has a weight to it. It's not too slippery...

0:36:30 > 0:36:34and it just feels like it's going to be really nice on the body.

0:36:34 > 0:36:37Traditional West African dresses are very, very fitted,

0:36:37 > 0:36:41very sculptural, it's all about accentuating the female form,

0:36:41 > 0:36:42producing that beautiful hourglass.

0:36:42 > 0:36:46But then on top of that you've got structured peplums...

0:36:46 > 0:36:49It's exaggerated, these are occasion pieces.

0:36:49 > 0:36:51The fabric has a rigidity about it,

0:36:51 > 0:36:55which enables you to get a really good shape on the peplum,

0:36:55 > 0:36:57and sticking out, and the shoulders -

0:36:57 > 0:36:58and it'll keep its shape.

0:36:58 > 0:37:01Wax print fabric, often called ankara,

0:37:01 > 0:37:03is actually an imitation of batik,

0:37:03 > 0:37:05an ancient Indonesian technique

0:37:05 > 0:37:10that utilises hot wax and dye to create colourful patterns on cloth.

0:37:10 > 0:37:13In 1854 a Dutch textile company found a way to mass-produce

0:37:13 > 0:37:17a batik-style fabric, and tried to sell it to customers in Indonesia.

0:37:17 > 0:37:20They were less than impressed.

0:37:20 > 0:37:23The mechanisation process caused imperfections in the textile.

0:37:23 > 0:37:26So you got a kind of crackle effect.

0:37:26 > 0:37:29Which made it seem sort of hugely inferior,

0:37:29 > 0:37:32so people really did not want to buy this product in Indonesia.

0:37:32 > 0:37:35But Dutch traders found a new market.

0:37:35 > 0:37:37Ships carrying the fabric to and from Indonesia

0:37:37 > 0:37:39were stopping in West Africa

0:37:39 > 0:37:41where it was swapped for food and essentials.

0:37:41 > 0:37:44BECAUSE of its imperfections the locals fell in love with wax print,

0:37:44 > 0:37:47as each piece was seen as totally unique.

0:37:47 > 0:37:51In West Africa, where they were being traded by saleswomen,

0:37:51 > 0:37:54these women would give the particular patterns stories,

0:37:54 > 0:37:55or give them local names.

0:37:55 > 0:37:58So it became really ingrained in the local culture.

0:37:58 > 0:38:01The Dutch printers were keen to listen to local saleswomen

0:38:01 > 0:38:04about what they wanted in the way of colour and design.

0:38:04 > 0:38:08It became much more of a kind of two-way process,

0:38:08 > 0:38:11and you would start to see local stories, local myths,

0:38:11 > 0:38:13images of things with particular symbolic meaning

0:38:13 > 0:38:14becoming part of the pattern.

0:38:14 > 0:38:19So it really becomes an important communicative fabric.

0:38:19 > 0:38:22Wax print is as popular in West African design as it's ever been.

0:38:22 > 0:38:26The reason why it's so popular and it's lasted to long

0:38:26 > 0:38:28is because it's cotton. Africa's a very hot continent.

0:38:28 > 0:38:30So it's very breathable,

0:38:30 > 0:38:33and you get so many designs that you don't have to stop on one print.

0:38:33 > 0:38:36The stiffness of the fabric

0:38:36 > 0:38:38makes it perfect for creating structure,

0:38:38 > 0:38:40so you can make things like beautiful bows -

0:38:40 > 0:38:42even make crazy head wraps and make them stand.

0:38:42 > 0:38:45The fabric sits really well on the body,

0:38:45 > 0:38:47especially if it's bespoke and tailor-made

0:38:47 > 0:38:49to the person's measurements.

0:38:49 > 0:38:50But how will OUR sewers cope,

0:38:50 > 0:38:53making bespoke dresses with this unique fabric?

0:38:53 > 0:38:57I've got the same fabric as Angeline. Which is always a worry!

0:38:57 > 0:38:59- Same fabric world.- I know!

0:38:59 > 0:39:03- Crazy.- Hashtag - awkward. - And that's before we even met!

0:39:03 > 0:39:07Whilst cutting their complex and bold prints...

0:39:07 > 0:39:09the sewers need to constantly think ahead...

0:39:09 > 0:39:12(One, two, three, four, five...)

0:39:12 > 0:39:16..to ensure the pattern will match along the seams of their dress.

0:39:16 > 0:39:19Are you thinking about how you're placing your pattern

0:39:19 > 0:39:21- on the fabric? - Yeah, I've cut out the front

0:39:21 > 0:39:24- and I've arranged these three up the centre front.- All right...

0:39:24 > 0:39:27I'm kind of focusing on the gold as my elements

0:39:27 > 0:39:28that I'm going to balance.

0:39:28 > 0:39:31Tracey is making a fitted knee-length dress

0:39:31 > 0:39:32with capped sleeves

0:39:32 > 0:39:34and a peplum at the waist.

0:39:34 > 0:39:36Look, you're matching. Yeah.

0:39:36 > 0:39:38I thought I'd have a go with the piece.

0:39:38 > 0:39:40Did you? Oh, so that is your trial?

0:39:40 > 0:39:42Yeah, this is a piece of ankara fabric.

0:39:42 > 0:39:45- Well - we've had a first and a first from you.- Yeah...

0:39:45 > 0:39:47Are we going to get a full house?

0:39:47 > 0:39:49Well, hopefully. You never know, do you?

0:39:49 > 0:39:54Josh has chosen to make this final challenge just a little bit harder.

0:39:54 > 0:39:57I think I might be the only person who's using the same fabric

0:39:57 > 0:40:01in two different colours to actually create a different effect.

0:40:01 > 0:40:03He's aiming to match his contrasting patterns

0:40:03 > 0:40:05all the way through the bodice and skirt

0:40:05 > 0:40:07of his full-length fitted dress,

0:40:07 > 0:40:09which has a peplum at the hem.

0:40:09 > 0:40:12Straight lines are quite easy to pattern-match,

0:40:12 > 0:40:15but when you're trying to match a pattern around a curve

0:40:15 > 0:40:17that curve in opposite directions

0:40:17 > 0:40:19it's then a little bit more confusing!

0:40:19 > 0:40:21Right...

0:40:21 > 0:40:23If they think they've positioned their pattern correctly...

0:40:23 > 0:40:27I'm going to be very careful with the placement of these circles

0:40:27 > 0:40:29on the bust.

0:40:29 > 0:40:32We want to avoid circle boobs at all costs.

0:40:32 > 0:40:34..the sewers' next challenge...

0:40:34 > 0:40:36Mm, I'm glad we've got this little trying-on...

0:40:36 > 0:40:39..is to ensure their cut pieces will fit their model.

0:40:39 > 0:40:41Put your hand down, that one...

0:40:41 > 0:40:44This is what you'd call a princess seam dress,

0:40:44 > 0:40:48which means the seams go over the bust and down the front.

0:40:48 > 0:40:51So that's where all the fitting goes - everything relies on all

0:40:51 > 0:40:55the panels intersecting together, because it's in six panels.

0:40:55 > 0:40:58So that everything can be adjusted to get it really snug and tight.

0:40:59 > 0:41:03- Do you think that feels too loose, there?- A smidgen.

0:41:03 > 0:41:06What I don't want is for it to become too tight for you.

0:41:06 > 0:41:08I'm concentrating on the fitting

0:41:08 > 0:41:10around the waist and around the sides.

0:41:10 > 0:41:11It's hard to fit

0:41:11 > 0:41:15because there is very little movement in the actual fabric.

0:41:15 > 0:41:18Angeline's tight-fitting bodice

0:41:18 > 0:41:19will have an asymmetrical peplum

0:41:19 > 0:41:20at the waist,

0:41:20 > 0:41:24and her short dress will have a choker in matching fabric.

0:41:24 > 0:41:27It's just ensuring that it moves the right way, as well -

0:41:27 > 0:41:30it's all about showing off the curves of the body.

0:41:30 > 0:41:32Let's pull this in nice and tight,

0:41:32 > 0:41:34let's take it in a bit here...

0:41:34 > 0:41:38You can't do this anywhere else but on the model.

0:41:38 > 0:41:39Joyce is repinning her bodice,

0:41:39 > 0:41:42hoping for a perfectly fitting princess seam dress

0:41:42 > 0:41:43with cap sleeves

0:41:43 > 0:41:46in a partial waist peplum.

0:41:46 > 0:41:49- Can we ask you something? - Oh, go on, then.

0:41:49 > 0:41:51Are you following instructions?

0:41:51 > 0:41:53Absolutely. I'm a changed woman today.

0:41:53 > 0:41:56- Fantastic.- I'm biddable...

0:41:56 > 0:41:58Biddable?! I can't imagine you ever being biddable.

0:42:00 > 0:42:04- You ask me to do anything, Patrick, and I'll do it.- Right. Fine.

0:42:04 > 0:42:06- I'd like you to make this dress beautifully.- I will.

0:42:06 > 0:42:08MUSIC: Pata Pata by Miriam Makeba

0:42:10 > 0:42:12And give me a spin...

0:42:12 > 0:42:15While most of the sewers are fitting using their final fabric...

0:42:15 > 0:42:17I think...we'll be fine.

0:42:17 > 0:42:19That's so much better.

0:42:19 > 0:42:21..after struggling in the first two challenges...

0:42:21 > 0:42:25You want the fitting to just look absolutely stunning.

0:42:25 > 0:42:28..Jade is now taking extra precautions.

0:42:28 > 0:42:29Are you fitting with the lining?

0:42:29 > 0:42:33I'm going to fit with the lining in case it needs taking in,

0:42:33 > 0:42:36because if I cut it out in the actual fabric and it needs taking in

0:42:36 > 0:42:38then the pattern match won't match.

0:42:38 > 0:42:40Jade's fully lined knee-length dress

0:42:40 > 0:42:42will be boned at the bodice

0:42:42 > 0:42:45and have a waterfall pleated peplum.

0:42:45 > 0:42:48So this is one continuous piece going all the way round, or...?

0:42:48 > 0:42:51- Well, I've actually cut it out in the lining...- Let's have a look.

0:42:51 > 0:42:54So that one, obviously, is at the front,

0:42:54 > 0:42:56but it's got the pleats in,

0:42:56 > 0:42:58- so it will be more gathered.- Yeah.

0:42:58 > 0:43:02And then you attach the fuller one on to it, which then obviously...

0:43:02 > 0:43:04- Cascades.- ..goes down your bum.

0:43:04 > 0:43:08Fitting a peplum to a standard dress is hard enough...

0:43:08 > 0:43:11So, basically, that will go like so.

0:43:11 > 0:43:14Because that's curved and this is straight, as you fit it,

0:43:14 > 0:43:15it will make it stick out.

0:43:15 > 0:43:17Can you see? It's, like, filling a bit?

0:43:17 > 0:43:19But with a bold pattern...

0:43:19 > 0:43:22I'm just attaching the peplum to the bodice.

0:43:22 > 0:43:23..it's even harder.

0:43:23 > 0:43:26I'm not finding it terribly easy to pattern match.

0:43:26 > 0:43:30Because I'm quite fussy, I like to get it right,

0:43:30 > 0:43:35but, um, sometimes perfection just takes so much time.

0:43:35 > 0:43:39- Josh? How are you feeling? - Ask me again when I'm on the skirt.

0:43:39 > 0:43:43- Have you not started the skirt? - It won't take me too long.

0:43:44 > 0:43:47My dress isn't going to have a peplum. It's going to have a ruffle.

0:43:47 > 0:43:50All of this fabric... which is quite long,

0:43:50 > 0:43:52is going to be gathered around the waste.

0:43:52 > 0:43:54Charlotte's gathered ruffle

0:43:54 > 0:43:56will flow from a fitted bodice

0:43:56 > 0:43:57into a pencil skirt.

0:43:57 > 0:44:01- How is it?- Good! I'm really pleased with it.- Lots and lots of gathering.

0:44:01 > 0:44:03- Oh, a boatload of gathering. - You're making a curtain.

0:44:03 > 0:44:06Tell me again why you chose to do this as a gathered rectangle,

0:44:06 > 0:44:08rather than a gathered...

0:44:08 > 0:44:11I wanted a lot of volume, a really, really huge amount.

0:44:11 > 0:44:13- You're getting lots of volume here.- Yes.

0:44:13 > 0:44:16But not necessarily any more volume at the end.

0:44:16 > 0:44:19It hopefully will sit nicely once it's finished.

0:44:19 > 0:44:21It's sort of hard to tell at the moment.

0:44:21 > 0:44:23It's going to be great, I'm sure.

0:44:23 > 0:44:25- I'm glad we had a chair. - Somehow you can say that...

0:44:25 > 0:44:28- and still make me terrified. - I don't know why.

0:44:28 > 0:44:32- Something...- It's something about the way you say it, I think.

0:44:32 > 0:44:34Just imagine I've said it differently.

0:44:36 > 0:44:39- (He hates the ruffle.) - Really?- I can't do anything else.

0:44:39 > 0:44:41I can't change my plan now.

0:44:41 > 0:44:43I couldn't go and draft a peplum and stick that on.

0:44:43 > 0:44:45I'm halfway through sticking this on.

0:44:45 > 0:44:48Rumana has also committed to something a little different.

0:44:48 > 0:44:50They're probably going to get a lot of peplums,

0:44:50 > 0:44:52so I've actually not gone for that.

0:44:52 > 0:44:56Instead, I've gone for a cape to go with the dress.

0:44:56 > 0:44:58Rumana's cape will be double layered

0:44:58 > 0:45:00and split down the middle.

0:45:00 > 0:45:01It'll cover her full-length,

0:45:01 > 0:45:03fitted sheath dress.

0:45:03 > 0:45:05My cape's big. It's structured.

0:45:05 > 0:45:08I think using a double layer has given a bit more body to it.

0:45:08 > 0:45:10So far, so happy.

0:45:10 > 0:45:12How much time do we have?

0:45:12 > 0:45:13One hour left!

0:45:14 > 0:45:18I'm just trying to work out the best way to attach a peplum

0:45:18 > 0:45:21that's actually in four different sections.

0:45:21 > 0:45:23It's not quite as easy as just, you know,

0:45:23 > 0:45:25putting a peplum on the bottom of a dress,

0:45:25 > 0:45:29because I need each four sections to match up perfectly.

0:45:31 > 0:45:34I mean, at this point it looks like most of them are going to finish.

0:45:34 > 0:45:35I'll check that it fits you.

0:45:35 > 0:45:38Really, this challenges boils down to how well they've fitted them.

0:45:38 > 0:45:40- Yes.- Not just how well they've sewn them.

0:45:40 > 0:45:42It's not something I'm used to doing.

0:45:42 > 0:45:45I don't tend to make things very fitted for myself.

0:45:45 > 0:45:47Some people are quite crooked.

0:45:47 > 0:45:50Well, most people have one shoulder higher than the other

0:45:50 > 0:45:52and one bosom bigger than the other.

0:45:52 > 0:45:55- Is that right?- That is right, yes. - I wouldn't know anything about that.

0:45:55 > 0:45:57No, of course you wouldn't.

0:45:57 > 0:45:59So let me check I've got it level.

0:45:59 > 0:46:02I'll take a little bit off the front. That might make a difference.

0:46:02 > 0:46:04This peplum can come up a bit more, you know.

0:46:04 > 0:46:08I managed to take it in a little bit on one of the seams,

0:46:08 > 0:46:11which has given me a little bit more snugness around the waist.

0:46:11 > 0:46:13It's better than it was.

0:46:13 > 0:46:15With the skirt attached to it,

0:46:15 > 0:46:17I need to bring it up a fraction more

0:46:17 > 0:46:19to fit as I would like it to fit.

0:46:20 > 0:46:21OK, so that's fine...

0:46:21 > 0:46:24As they make changes, hoping to achieve a perfect fit...

0:46:24 > 0:46:28Stop, stop, stop. Yep. A bit more.

0:46:28 > 0:46:30..the sewers still need to ensure their patterns

0:46:30 > 0:46:33match across the seams they're adjusting.

0:46:33 > 0:46:35Moment of truth.

0:46:35 > 0:46:37I'm hoping that the judges will pick up on the fact

0:46:37 > 0:46:40that I've tried to match all the way across,

0:46:40 > 0:46:43regardless of whether it's on a curve or not.

0:46:43 > 0:46:48Look at that, right there. The lines practically match.

0:46:48 > 0:46:50Across there.

0:46:50 > 0:46:52Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.

0:46:57 > 0:47:00Back's collapsing. I would have a look at it.

0:47:03 > 0:47:05My cape is done. I'm just pressing it.

0:47:05 > 0:47:08I'm going to attach some straps to my dress.

0:47:08 > 0:47:11Patrick noticed there was a bit of fullness in the back.

0:47:11 > 0:47:12Put it on me.

0:47:14 > 0:47:16- That is beautiful!- Do you think?

0:47:17 > 0:47:21- I need to do the back. - I feel like a superhero.

0:47:21 > 0:47:23Josh, how are you?

0:47:23 > 0:47:26- I'm all right, yeah, how are you? - Yeah, it's working.

0:47:26 > 0:47:29See if it removes the fullness.

0:47:29 > 0:47:30That feel OK?

0:47:31 > 0:47:34You have four minutes left, everybody.

0:47:34 > 0:47:36Every time, down to the last seconds.

0:47:39 > 0:47:41Hello, gathered bottom.

0:47:41 > 0:47:42Oh, my hook's not staying.

0:47:42 > 0:47:45Do you want to come over here? Quick, quick, quick.

0:47:45 > 0:47:47Fits her, stunningly.

0:47:52 > 0:47:53So happy.

0:47:53 > 0:47:57Today was just literally to prove myself to the judges.

0:47:57 > 0:48:00Come out, come out. Ha! Ha-ha!

0:48:00 > 0:48:04I love it. I am so happy with the fit. Turn around, turn around.

0:48:04 > 0:48:06One minute, sewers!

0:48:07 > 0:48:08On your arm.

0:48:10 > 0:48:12You look amazing!

0:48:12 > 0:48:14I think the ruffle is excellent

0:48:14 > 0:48:16and I don't care if Patrick doesn't like it.

0:48:16 > 0:48:18Let me know if you need me to zip you up.

0:48:21 > 0:48:24Oh, you look gorgeous!

0:48:24 > 0:48:27OK, sewers, that is the end of the challenge.

0:48:28 > 0:48:30You have to walk away from Angeline.

0:48:30 > 0:48:32Blimey.

0:48:32 > 0:48:36Finished! Finished! I have finished!

0:48:36 > 0:48:38- I did it! Oh, my God. - Are you so happy?

0:48:38 > 0:48:42MUSIC: Nylon Dress by Steven Amechi and his Empire Rhythm Skies

0:48:53 > 0:48:58The overall impression I'm getting is that it doesn't fit very well.

0:48:58 > 0:49:00And also...quite baggy here.

0:49:01 > 0:49:04- I agree with Esme. I can take in six inches around the waist...- Yeah.

0:49:04 > 0:49:06..without it being really close.

0:49:07 > 0:49:12- You've lined your peplum.- It's very crisp and even around the hem.

0:49:12 > 0:49:13There's a lot of good, crisp stuff.

0:49:13 > 0:49:17I think it's just the fitting really lets it down.

0:49:26 > 0:49:30- Well, I think yours does have a wow factor, don't you?- Yes.

0:49:30 > 0:49:32- THEY LAUGH - I love your nervous face!

0:49:32 > 0:49:35What really works well is the scale of the peplum

0:49:35 > 0:49:36compared to the skirt.

0:49:36 > 0:49:38You're the only person with a peplum

0:49:38 > 0:49:40- that's longer than the skirt underneath it.- Exactly.

0:49:40 > 0:49:43And because you've lined it, we can see absolutely all of that

0:49:43 > 0:49:46movement in the peplum, which is really impactful.

0:49:46 > 0:49:50- But the one thing is, you've hoiked it up with the straps...- Yeah.

0:49:50 > 0:49:52..so it's not falling down,

0:49:52 > 0:49:55but actually it's still too long in the body.

0:49:55 > 0:49:58But I think the choker brings the whole thing together.

0:49:58 > 0:50:00It has definitely got impact.

0:50:09 > 0:50:11- It has terrific impact.- Yes.

0:50:11 > 0:50:14You've thought about the motif very carefully,

0:50:14 > 0:50:18but it's just a little bulky round the tummy.

0:50:18 > 0:50:22There's just too much of it in the middle. Do you agree or disagree?

0:50:22 > 0:50:27Um, I'm actually more concerned about the darts. They're quite high.

0:50:27 > 0:50:32- Oh, really?- That is gaping, there. And this side's not fitting great.

0:50:32 > 0:50:35- Can we have a look at the zip? - So you've matched that there.- No.

0:50:35 > 0:50:38- Slightly off. - Fractionally, fractionally off.

0:50:38 > 0:50:40It's a shame because that bit's perfect.

0:50:40 > 0:50:42- THEY LAUGH - Yeah, it is!

0:50:52 > 0:50:54- I think I like it.- Yes.

0:50:54 > 0:50:56- It's quite dramatic, isn't it? - It is, isn't it?

0:50:56 > 0:51:02No peplums, no ruffles, no trains, but there's drama.

0:51:02 > 0:51:06I don't actually understand why you didn't just sew this up.

0:51:06 > 0:51:09- Because you could have put this over the head.- That's true.

0:51:09 > 0:51:11It does have a really nice hourglass shape to it.

0:51:11 > 0:51:14Actually, the dress itself is very flattering.

0:51:14 > 0:51:18- There's quite a saucy bit on this. - Yes.- Which is here.

0:51:18 > 0:51:23- Yes.- So you see a tiny bit of bosom.- I like it.

0:51:23 > 0:51:25- I do.- Why are you so shocked at liking my sewing?!

0:51:25 > 0:51:28Well, I don't know - cos I've never seen anything quite like it before.

0:51:28 > 0:51:30It's like something from another planet.

0:51:30 > 0:51:32Never mind another country.

0:51:32 > 0:51:34- But I think it works. - It does indeed.

0:51:34 > 0:51:39MUSIC: Fire Fire Fire by Ebenezer Calender & His Maringer Band

0:51:44 > 0:51:47I think the overall impression of the dress is very stunning.

0:51:47 > 0:51:51- The peplum's great.- Thank you.

0:51:51 > 0:51:54Definitely has a wow factor, but it's a little bit too tight.

0:51:55 > 0:51:58- Can you see how it's pulling over here?- Yeah.

0:51:58 > 0:52:01I also think it's a bit too low here.

0:52:01 > 0:52:03You did match it at the front.

0:52:03 > 0:52:07- I did, yeah.- Give you credit for doing that.- Thank you.

0:52:07 > 0:52:11I think, overall, it's crisply finished, the straps are neat.

0:52:11 > 0:52:15- I just think it's a little bit snug here and it's a bit low here.- OK.

0:52:25 > 0:52:27Your pattern is jarring.

0:52:27 > 0:52:29We've got a triangle then we've just got a smidge,

0:52:29 > 0:52:32then we've got half a smidge, then almost a whole triangle.

0:52:32 > 0:52:35You've run it really nicely down the centre,

0:52:35 > 0:52:38but by the side of it is actually a white triangle,

0:52:38 > 0:52:40whereas this is a black triangle.

0:52:40 > 0:52:44- I feel it's a bit long in the back. Can you see this?- Yeah.

0:52:44 > 0:52:50It's quite lumpy here. There's one other thing. It's got a real curve.

0:52:50 > 0:52:54Turn round. And I think this side might be worse. Yes.

0:52:54 > 0:52:57- Something's gone wrong over the hip. - Can you see?- Yeah.

0:52:57 > 0:53:01It's got a curve here, so it's almost like you took it in here,

0:53:01 > 0:53:03but you didn't take it far enough down.

0:53:03 > 0:53:09Instead of going in, out, in, out, it goes in, out, lump, in, out.

0:53:09 > 0:53:13Which is really obvious. It's a real shame, actually.

0:53:24 > 0:53:28- It's very crisp, very neat. - It looks really well fitted.

0:53:29 > 0:53:33This is all flat here. It's nice on the waist.

0:53:33 > 0:53:35The seams look lovely and flat.

0:53:35 > 0:53:38I think the fit, you've got that lovely hourglass shape to it.

0:53:38 > 0:53:41- It's not too tight.- No.

0:53:41 > 0:53:44I also like the lining you did.

0:53:44 > 0:53:47I wish there had been more of it...

0:53:47 > 0:53:49- Sorry.- ..so we had a bit more va-voom there.

0:53:49 > 0:53:52I think, overall, the whole thing works extremely well.

0:53:52 > 0:53:53Oh, thank you so much.

0:53:55 > 0:53:57Well done to all of you.

0:53:57 > 0:54:01International Week, by far my favourite.

0:54:01 > 0:54:04Go and have a bun and a group hug.

0:54:04 > 0:54:06When you come back, the judges will announce the Garment Of The Week

0:54:06 > 0:54:10and the person who will be leaving the Sewing Room.

0:54:14 > 0:54:17I've never sewn with an African wax print before.

0:54:17 > 0:54:20Love the fabric and really enjoyed making it.

0:54:20 > 0:54:22I think the judges will have a really tough decision today,

0:54:22 > 0:54:24cos there are a few people had a bad day yesterday

0:54:24 > 0:54:26but they've done better today.

0:54:26 > 0:54:27I'm not ready to go home.

0:54:27 > 0:54:29I want to stay here and keep fighting and learning.

0:54:29 > 0:54:32Sometimes you want to just be, like, "You know what? Stuff it."

0:54:32 > 0:54:34Chuck the whole thing and just walk out.

0:54:34 > 0:54:37But I don't want to go home yet.

0:54:37 > 0:54:40Can we just remind ourselves of the beginning of the day?

0:54:40 > 0:54:43The people in the bottom were Jade and Joyce.

0:54:43 > 0:54:46Joyce's dress is in contention for Garment Of The Week,

0:54:46 > 0:54:49so I think Joyce has pulled herself right out

0:54:49 > 0:54:52of all discussion on leaving the Sewing Bee.

0:54:52 > 0:54:53- In a nutshell...- Yes.

0:54:53 > 0:54:56..it boils down to a decision between Josh and Jade.

0:54:56 > 0:54:58Josh did have a good first day,

0:54:58 > 0:55:01- but this wasn't a successful Made-to-measure Challenge.- No.

0:55:01 > 0:55:02It really wasn't.

0:55:02 > 0:55:05It's really badly made, I have to say.

0:55:05 > 0:55:10You know, this lump here, on the side, look, that is bad, bad sewing.

0:55:10 > 0:55:12Jade, by contrast, had a poor first day,

0:55:12 > 0:55:16but I think this was one of our better Made-to-measure Challenges.

0:55:16 > 0:55:19The peplum's fabulous, but it wasn't lined,

0:55:19 > 0:55:21which would have emphasised that.

0:55:21 > 0:55:25I think you might have a genuinely impossible task.

0:55:25 > 0:55:29- I don't think it's a straightforward one, at all.- OK.

0:55:29 > 0:55:31Well, we'll leave you to it and we'll bring them in.

0:55:36 > 0:55:42A huge well done to all of you. Look at you, holding hands, a bit wobbly.

0:55:42 > 0:55:44Let's not do the bad bit, let's do the good bit.

0:55:44 > 0:55:47So, our Garment Of The Week this week...

0:55:47 > 0:55:50is...this one.

0:55:54 > 0:55:57The infuriating Joyce! I mean, it's beautiful.

0:55:57 > 0:56:01It's crisply sewn, it was a beautiful fit.

0:56:01 > 0:56:05- Oh, thank you so much. - I've never seen anyone so shocked!

0:56:05 > 0:56:08- Thank you. - And now the less lovely bit.

0:56:08 > 0:56:10We would like everyone to stay in forever and ever and ever,

0:56:10 > 0:56:14but unfortunately somebody's got to leave the sewing bee

0:56:14 > 0:56:18and the judges took a long time, deliberated, chatted,

0:56:18 > 0:56:22and the person who is leaving is...

0:56:28 > 0:56:32- ..is Josh.- Oh!- I'm sorry!

0:56:32 > 0:56:35- Josh!- I know.- Oh, Josh, I'm sorry.

0:56:39 > 0:56:43I've learnt so much from everyone and they're all so open to teaching

0:56:43 > 0:56:45and to helping and I think without the help of some of them,

0:56:45 > 0:56:48I probably wouldn't have made it through the first week,

0:56:48 > 0:56:49let alone to week four.

0:56:49 > 0:56:51It's been fantastic having him here,

0:56:51 > 0:56:55and it's great for him to learn all sorts of new things.

0:56:55 > 0:56:57I'm sure, when he leaves,

0:56:57 > 0:57:00he'll be more adventurous in what he makes.

0:57:00 > 0:57:03Well done. Honestly. You've been fantastic. Such a lovely guy.

0:57:03 > 0:57:07He's so enthusiastic. But I think this was just his week.

0:57:07 > 0:57:09I'm so shocked. I honestly thought it was me.

0:57:09 > 0:57:12I think it was a difficult decision to choose between Jade

0:57:12 > 0:57:17and Josh, but Jade's Made-to-measure was really very good.

0:57:17 > 0:57:19I'm so relieved that they didn't say, "Jade",

0:57:19 > 0:57:21that I can prove myself next week

0:57:21 > 0:57:24and I'm going to put absolutely everything I've got into it.

0:57:24 > 0:57:25Good luck, girls, eh?

0:57:26 > 0:57:29I thought I was on the way out today.

0:57:29 > 0:57:31I'll celebrate with my husband Hugh tonight

0:57:31 > 0:57:35and, do you know, I think we've got a bottle of champagne in the house.

0:57:35 > 0:57:38I'm really happy that I've got through, but...

0:57:38 > 0:57:41I absolutely hate that when somebody has to go.

0:57:41 > 0:57:44Coming into the competition, I thought that, you know,

0:57:44 > 0:57:47it's a competition and people are there for one reason,

0:57:47 > 0:57:50but you're really not. You're not.

0:57:50 > 0:57:53Doesn't matter, you know, what stretch of life,

0:57:53 > 0:57:56what your background is, how long you've been sewing for.

0:57:56 > 0:57:58You can learn and you can learn very quickly

0:57:58 > 0:58:01as long as you apply yourself and I hope that I've proved that

0:58:01 > 0:58:04to the judges as well as to people that are watching.

0:58:06 > 0:58:08Next time...

0:58:08 > 0:58:09I'm too young for this.

0:58:09 > 0:58:10..the sewers take a step back...

0:58:10 > 0:58:12Super groovy.

0:58:12 > 0:58:14..into the swinging '60s.

0:58:14 > 0:58:15Sex, drugs and rock and roll.

0:58:15 > 0:58:18They tackle dated machines...

0:58:18 > 0:58:19Oh, this is weird, man.

0:58:19 > 0:58:21..get groovy with PVC...

0:58:21 > 0:58:23I wouldn't wear that stuff if you paid me.

0:58:23 > 0:58:25..and glamorous with vintage patterns.

0:58:25 > 0:58:27- We're birthing.- We're birthing.

0:58:27 > 0:58:29But who will get Garment Of The Week?

0:58:29 > 0:58:30Magic!

0:58:30 > 0:58:31And who will be the next to leave?

0:58:31 > 0:58:33There's a black hole in the corner of the room,

0:58:33 > 0:58:35- sucking all the time into it.- I call it Patrick!