0:00:02 > 0:00:08This programme contains some strong language
0:00:08 > 0:00:11- 5 billion kilometres of roads network our planet.- 400-foot drop.
0:00:11 > 0:00:16- Instant death then, yeah? - Yet the desire to communicate and trade means new routes
0:00:16 > 0:00:18are being forged through increasingly challenging terrain.
0:00:18 > 0:00:22- Keep as close as you can there. - Yeah, but am I OK with that drop?
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- Across Arctic tundra... - Zero visibility on the pass, we are mid-drift.
0:00:26 > 0:00:28Over mountain passes...
0:00:30 > 0:00:32Through jungle...
0:00:32 > 0:00:33Go, Fogle, go!
0:00:33 > 0:00:37These roads fight a constant battle with nature.
0:00:37 > 0:00:39Let's just calm it down.
0:00:39 > 0:00:42But their very existence is testament
0:00:42 > 0:00:47to man's ingenuity and driving them requires courage and determination.
0:00:47 > 0:00:49Oh, get out. Whoa-a-a!
0:00:55 > 0:00:59Comedians Rhod Gilbert and Greg Davies are attempting
0:00:59 > 0:01:03to drive across Nepal, one of the poorest, least developed,
0:01:03 > 0:01:06most mountainous countries on earth.
0:01:06 > 0:01:07Oh, look out!
0:01:07 > 0:01:08Jesus.
0:01:08 > 0:01:11With a population of 30 million,
0:01:11 > 0:01:15Nepal is sandwiched between two giant superpowers, China and India.
0:01:17 > 0:01:19Ah, no way, no way, this is awful.
0:01:19 > 0:01:22Following the path of ancient Himalayan trade routes,
0:01:22 > 0:01:26their journey will take them along heart-stopping mountain tracks...
0:01:26 > 0:01:31- Ha-ha, that must've been a buzz! - ..and death-defying highways...
0:01:31 > 0:01:33- Woah!- Oh!
0:01:34 > 0:01:37..thrown into an intense culture that will both shock...
0:01:37 > 0:01:41That is the maddest thing I have ever seen in my life.
0:01:41 > 0:01:42..and inspire.
0:01:42 > 0:01:44- Chickens!- They're alive!
0:01:44 > 0:01:49Together, they will take on a rugged mountainous landscape.
0:01:49 > 0:01:52Don't look now, but the earth is literally giving way beneath us down there.
0:01:52 > 0:01:56And endure hundreds of miles of torturous driving
0:01:56 > 0:01:57on one of the world's most dangerous roads.
0:01:57 > 0:02:03- Whoa!- What you genuinely don't know is that could at any moment really come down.
0:02:03 > 0:02:04I think this is probably the end of the road.
0:02:20 > 0:02:23Rhod and Greg are starting their journey
0:02:23 > 0:02:25at the busy India-Nepal border crossing.
0:02:25 > 0:02:28- Why exactly are we dressed like this?- I don't know!
0:02:28 > 0:02:32We literally look like a budget swat team.
0:02:32 > 0:02:33LAUGHTER
0:02:33 > 0:02:37These guys have known each other for nearly ten years
0:02:37 > 0:02:40and they've never travelled together to anywhere like this.
0:02:44 > 0:02:47- Jesus.- These are the road signs we've got to get the hang of.
0:02:47 > 0:02:49That's the one I'm worried about.
0:02:49 > 0:02:52This is the one I'm worried about - a giant walking along the road
0:02:52 > 0:02:56- squashing cars.- That's a picture of you, mate. Hey, man, we're in Nepal.
0:02:56 > 0:02:59There's a welcoming committee here.
0:03:00 > 0:03:02Oh, hello, that's the car.
0:03:02 > 0:03:03Namaste.
0:03:03 > 0:03:04My name is Raja.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08- Raja, Rhod, nice to meet you. - Raja, I'm Greg, nice to meet you.
0:03:08 > 0:03:11What tips can you give us about driving?
0:03:11 > 0:03:14We have to drive slowly, not fast, be careful, you know?
0:03:14 > 0:03:21Raja is handing over a workhorse four-wheel drive for their journey across Nepal.
0:03:21 > 0:03:24The blessing is meant to ensure their safety.
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- Put this for the good luck. - That's Ganesh for good luck.
0:03:28 > 0:03:29And we have to pray for them.
0:03:29 > 0:03:31Ganesh will look after us.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34Yes. This is your garland.
0:03:34 > 0:03:37This goes round here? And one round Ganesh?
0:03:37 > 0:03:42You've done this before, haven't you? Is there more?
0:03:42 > 0:03:45- Tikka for good luck.- Is this tikka like chicken tikka?- Yeah.
0:03:45 > 0:03:47'I've never been anywhere like this before.
0:03:47 > 0:03:50'I just didn't get the call to go travelling'
0:03:50 > 0:03:52when I was younger. I've travelled a lot in the last few years
0:03:52 > 0:03:58with comedy, but staying in quite nice hotels, that's part of the reason why I came, really -
0:03:58 > 0:04:00I've never ever really experienced anything like this,
0:04:00 > 0:04:04and it is a sensory overload. It's just madness.
0:04:04 > 0:04:06The shoe is coming out!
0:04:06 > 0:04:11This is the shoe for the wheels, no puncture, no accidents.
0:04:11 > 0:04:15This shoe stops the tyres from getting punctured.
0:04:17 > 0:04:19This is my second time in Nepal, I was here in 1992,
0:04:19 > 0:04:23so about 20 years ago. It's just chaos, the roads are full
0:04:23 > 0:04:26of mopeds with 17 people on them, there's chicken riding bikes,
0:04:26 > 0:04:30some of these big lorries, they just shoot around the corners.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33It's monsoon season and apparently the roads can just disappear
0:04:33 > 0:04:36when you're on them. The roads are just full of goats,
0:04:36 > 0:04:38rabid dogs, cows everywhere.
0:04:38 > 0:04:41I just saw a man with one leg and a stick
0:04:41 > 0:04:43and a ganja pipe beating up a bull with a stick.
0:04:45 > 0:04:46It's just chaos.
0:04:52 > 0:04:55Right then, let's hope Ganesh is switched on.
0:04:55 > 0:04:57Do your stuff, Ganesh.
0:04:57 > 0:05:01For the next week, Rhod and Greg will drive 400 kilometres
0:05:01 > 0:05:04from the Indian to the Chinese border across Nepal.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08The first leg of their journey will cross the flat plains
0:05:08 > 0:05:11of the Terai, then climb up the twisting mountain roads
0:05:11 > 0:05:14to the town of Pokhara, nestled below the Himalayas.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20The middle section of their drive means taking on the deadly
0:05:20 > 0:05:24Prithvi Highway that twists and turns its way to the capital,
0:05:24 > 0:05:25Kathmandu.
0:05:29 > 0:05:32The Arniko Highway is the final leg and takes them
0:05:32 > 0:05:37north through deep ravines to the Chinese border at Friendship Bridge.
0:05:39 > 0:05:42But they begin their journey heading north,
0:05:42 > 0:05:45on the busy Indian-built Siddhartha Highway.
0:05:48 > 0:05:49This is mayhem.
0:05:50 > 0:05:51It's mayhem.
0:05:51 > 0:05:54God Almighty, the economy of this country must be screwed
0:05:54 > 0:05:57if this is a road into a big town.
0:05:57 > 0:06:01That's the thing, I think most of the roads have been built by other people -
0:06:01 > 0:06:03the Chinese have built them, the Indians have built them.
0:06:04 > 0:06:08The road they're on now was for centuries a vital section
0:06:08 > 0:06:12of the route used to trade salt and grain between India and Tibet.
0:06:14 > 0:06:19In 1968, Indian money helped to upgrade the road from a rough track.
0:06:19 > 0:06:22Today, it's heavily congested, with buses and trucks carrying
0:06:22 > 0:06:26fuel and goods into Nepal and carpets and clothing into India.
0:06:27 > 0:06:29That town was what then?
0:06:29 > 0:06:32- Why, you thinking of buying a place?- Horrible, wasn't it?
0:06:32 > 0:06:36Well, it wasn't horrible, it's just this is what it's like.
0:06:36 > 0:06:37It's just this poor.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- Well, in the context of what we're used to.- Well, yeah.
0:06:40 > 0:06:42- It's just shocking. - Yes, it's shocking, yeah.
0:06:42 > 0:06:44- Oh, look out.- Look out. Ooooh!
0:06:44 > 0:06:46See, there's going to be a lot of that, but worse.
0:06:46 > 0:06:48That's it, toot, "I'm here."
0:06:48 > 0:06:51I'm going to start breaking down this culture of tooting.
0:06:51 > 0:06:53I'm only going to toot when it's necessary.
0:06:53 > 0:06:55I'll be the toot god.
0:06:55 > 0:06:59Look, watch this cow. Give him a toot.
0:06:59 > 0:07:01Are you allowed to toot them?
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- You allowed to toot cows? Who knows. - Is that disrespectful?- I don't know.
0:07:04 > 0:07:06Am I all right there?
0:07:06 > 0:07:08Yeah, go on, you're fine.
0:07:09 > 0:07:12It's just a massive culture shock, isn't it?
0:07:12 > 0:07:15Do you want to look at this and find our route to Kathmandu?
0:07:15 > 0:07:17What's that say there?
0:07:17 > 0:07:20- Butwal.- Butwal, 19 kilometres.
0:07:20 > 0:07:22Right, see if you can find Butwal.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25Yes, I can. Does this ring a bell?
0:07:25 > 0:07:27Siddharthnagar?
0:07:27 > 0:07:29- HE LAUGHS - "Does it ring a bell?"
0:07:29 > 0:07:32It's heading towards Pokhara, which is where we're headed,
0:07:32 > 0:07:35- we're going up into the mountains. - Oh, my life.
0:07:35 > 0:07:37Look out, you've got a goat there, a cow there,
0:07:37 > 0:07:39and a massive truck coming towards you.
0:07:39 > 0:07:42Truck or cow, I never thought I'd have that dilemma.
0:07:42 > 0:07:45Does Bhairahawa ring any bells? Look around for signs.
0:07:45 > 0:07:48Let me try and get something through to you now - it doesn't matter
0:07:48 > 0:07:51how many towns you now list to me, you could list 100 towns
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- and they won't ring a bell, none of them would ring a bell. - OK, I'm going to do it now.
0:07:54 > 0:08:01Mustang? That rings a bell, doesn't it? It bloody rings a bell!
0:08:01 > 0:08:05- It does ring a bell, Mustang! - Hang on, rabid dog attack.
0:08:05 > 0:08:06Two warring dogs.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09OK, er, Kathmandu, does that ring a bell?
0:08:09 > 0:08:13Yeah, that rings a bell. Ha-ha-ha, you are a prick, honestly!
0:08:17 > 0:08:19After several hours driving on the flat,
0:08:19 > 0:08:22mountains rear up on the road ahead.
0:08:24 > 0:08:28We're going about five hours up into the mountain there above the cloud.
0:08:28 > 0:08:32And this road, I think, is going to get progressively worse.
0:08:38 > 0:08:43Right, we're off tarmac now, we are off tarmac.
0:08:44 > 0:08:46What have we let ourselves in for?
0:08:47 > 0:08:50They're crossing a major geographical junction,
0:08:50 > 0:08:55where the Indian continental plate collides with Asia.
0:08:55 > 0:08:59The colossal forces at work here continue to push the Himalayan range
0:08:59 > 0:09:02six centimetres higher every year.
0:09:02 > 0:09:03Oh!
0:09:04 > 0:09:07They get so bloody close to you.
0:09:09 > 0:09:13Rhod and Greg are looking out for a roadside shrine,
0:09:13 > 0:09:15dedicated to the Hindu god of drivers.
0:09:17 > 0:09:19What are we doing now?
0:09:19 > 0:09:22- This is to make our journey good luck?- Yes.
0:09:22 > 0:09:24Powerful forces of creation
0:09:24 > 0:09:27and destruction are central to Hindu belief.
0:09:27 > 0:09:32They are mirrored in the natural forces which shape the mountains.
0:09:32 > 0:09:36THEY SPEAK LOCAL LANGUAGE
0:09:36 > 0:09:38As the Himalayas are thrust ever upwards,
0:09:38 > 0:09:42all the while erosion acts to reduce the mountain.
0:09:44 > 0:09:47These two gargantuan forces act simultaneously to form
0:09:47 > 0:09:48the mountainous terrain
0:09:48 > 0:09:52and produce hazards that make the Himalayas a dangerous place.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58- Namaste!- Namaste.
0:09:58 > 0:10:02What were you saying, when you was praying?
0:10:02 > 0:10:04- And the weather? Good? - The weather is good!
0:10:04 > 0:10:08Yeah? This is good. I'm glad we came to you.
0:10:09 > 0:10:13- Thank you, bye-bye.- Bye-bye.
0:10:13 > 0:10:17Rock fall area. Brilliant(!) How do you feel after being blessed by the priest?
0:10:17 > 0:10:19I'm not a religious man but I felt vaguely reassured.
0:10:19 > 0:10:22Man, that's a bad bit of road.
0:10:22 > 0:10:25Need to be pretty careful about now.
0:10:26 > 0:10:28- I tell you, I don't like... - Look at this.
0:10:28 > 0:10:31I don't like the look of these rocks.
0:10:31 > 0:10:35I don't like the fact that up there...
0:10:35 > 0:10:39- Oh, God, if this comes down on us, mate.- Yeah, yeah.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44- I don't like the drop down this side.- Is it bad?
0:10:44 > 0:10:47- 300, 400 feet, absolutely sheer. - Instant death then, yeah?
0:10:49 > 0:10:53They're due to spend their first night in the hilltop town of Tansen,
0:10:53 > 0:10:56once a major stop on the old trade route.
0:10:56 > 0:10:59Are you sure this is the turn? Because this is as rough as...
0:10:59 > 0:11:05Some inspired map reading finds them on a back road used by the locals.
0:11:05 > 0:11:08Oh, this is bad. Right, now this looks mental.
0:11:08 > 0:11:12Shit. Hang on a minute, hang on a minute. Woah, woah.
0:11:12 > 0:11:15- Big drop there, you know.- Huh? - There's a big drop here.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19- Down, now, now! Stop! - Am I close enough there?
0:11:19 > 0:11:23- Brilliant work, that was tight. - Oh, my God, look at this.
0:11:25 > 0:11:27Oh, God.
0:11:27 > 0:11:29Up, up.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32Shit, we've lost that wheel.
0:11:32 > 0:11:34Uh...
0:11:34 > 0:11:37The shortcut is proving to be a real challenge
0:11:37 > 0:11:40and nightfall is quickly approaching.
0:11:41 > 0:11:43Just watch this.
0:11:43 > 0:11:46It's a real struggle but, hours later,
0:11:46 > 0:11:49they make it to the ancient hilltop trading town of Tansen.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07Their hotel is several hundred feet above the town
0:12:07 > 0:12:10and in the morning, Rhod and Greg find themselves surrounded by mist.
0:12:10 > 0:12:15We arrived here by a sort of clumsy old off-road route.
0:12:15 > 0:12:17We're going back through the town of Tansen.
0:12:17 > 0:12:22This is Rhod's first day driving, you may have gathered.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25- He's a little anxious, aren't you? - I'm really anxious.
0:12:25 > 0:12:28- Do you know where we're going? - Just head down.
0:12:28 > 0:12:31I'm a very nervous driver. Very cautious, conservative.
0:12:31 > 0:12:33I'm not as good a driver as you because I'm not aware
0:12:33 > 0:12:36of the size of the vehicle and I'm desperately worried
0:12:36 > 0:12:40about crushing A, a mangy dog or B, a woman the size of a grain of rice.
0:12:40 > 0:12:43There's lots of weird little shops in Tansen.
0:12:43 > 0:12:46There's a reason for that. I'll attempt to tell you why.
0:12:46 > 0:12:52Like this one, for example, if you can see it. I'll stop outside it. Hello, namaste? Good morning.
0:12:52 > 0:12:55- Namaste's a great greeting. - It is a great greeting
0:12:55 > 0:12:57because it accounts for everything you want to say.
0:12:57 > 0:13:00We must get the literal translation.
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- It's something like "God within you".- "God within you", yeah.
0:13:04 > 0:13:07- Look at this, this is bad. - All these interesting little shops,
0:13:07 > 0:13:10- I could be telling you all about this.- Tell me about it then.
0:13:10 > 0:13:14Well, if you look, you'll see most of the stuff will come from India.
0:13:14 > 0:13:18- Most of the stuff comes from India? - Yeah, and there's a reason for that.
0:13:18 > 0:13:24- Right.- This used to be a mighty Nepalese kingdom.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27They were eventually killed off by a plague, someone sent a plague
0:13:27 > 0:13:29and that killed the king. Anyway, the point is...
0:13:29 > 0:13:35- How do you send a plague? - I dunno. I don't know.- I don't know.
0:13:35 > 0:13:39Tansen, it was originally a trade route from India,
0:13:39 > 0:13:43a vital trade route, right? You listening?
0:13:43 > 0:13:48And then a big road was built that cut out this town
0:13:48 > 0:13:51- so it was essentially bypassed. - What should I be doing now?
0:13:51 > 0:13:55I've got my foot on the brake, I could smash these people any second.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58- So the road instantly stopped this...- Great(!) Can you guide me
0:13:58 > 0:14:02- past this chicken, motorbike and woman carrying a bag? - There's loads of room!
0:14:02 > 0:14:07- That's why I'm not confident, the room in the vehicle. - Right, stop, stop the car.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10I'm going to finish this sentence. Right...
0:14:10 > 0:14:14So, because it had been cut off, instantly the town had to adapt
0:14:14 > 0:14:19and it did, it instantly adapted by selling Indian goods to the locals.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22Ah, right, OK.
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- Oh, my God.- Ask this bloke where his stuff's from.- Hello, namaste.
0:14:26 > 0:14:30In your shop, it's from India or Nepal?
0:14:30 > 0:14:33Nepal, Nepal? Everything?
0:14:33 > 0:14:35Nepal. OK, thank you.
0:14:37 > 0:14:40There's going to be exceptions to the rule, though.
0:14:40 > 0:14:44Right, I'm going to ask this one. I'm going to ask this one.
0:14:44 > 0:14:50Morning, namaste! Is it from Nepal or India, the food?
0:14:50 > 0:14:52- The food, Nepal.- Nepal? - Yeah.- OK, thank you.
0:14:52 > 0:14:58- So that's Nepal 2-0 India, eh? - That's clearly Indian stuff.
0:14:58 > 0:15:01- Do you want me to stop and ask?- 2-1, let's just call it 2-1.- You cannot!
0:15:01 > 0:15:05I tell you what you can do is go and buy some crisps in that shop. We need snacks.
0:15:05 > 0:15:08- Now is not the time. - Well, I'm going to get them then.
0:15:08 > 0:15:12I want to see if my theory's right that all of these are Indian.
0:15:14 > 0:15:18- So it's Indian or Nepal? - Nepal.- Nepal, Nepal.
0:15:18 > 0:15:24Right, well, I'll be honest with you, mate, you shouldn't be here!
0:15:24 > 0:15:27This is an illegal sweet shop. Let's get this closed down right now.
0:15:29 > 0:15:32Their goal today is to reach the town of Pokhara
0:15:32 > 0:15:36so Rhod seeks some wisdom about the road ahead.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39What's your advice for us trying to drive to China?
0:15:39 > 0:15:42- Have courage, you know, have courage.- Have courage?
0:15:42 > 0:15:46- And this is the landslide season? - Yes, optimum landslide season.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49- Optimum landslide season? - Climax season.
0:15:49 > 0:15:52When I get scared, I get scared when the buses
0:15:52 > 0:15:55come round the corner and they swing right out.
0:15:55 > 0:15:59When I am on bus, I'm scared I may die.
0:15:59 > 0:16:01Anytime it might hit, you know,
0:16:01 > 0:16:05because carelessness is very common here in Nepal.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09So when you're on the roads, you think anytime you might die?
0:16:09 > 0:16:11Yes, because they drive very carelessly, you know.
0:16:11 > 0:16:15The rules have not been implemented honestly.
0:16:15 > 0:16:20Right, so there's rules but people ignore them? Thank you very much.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25Right, Pokhara, here we come.
0:16:25 > 0:16:29We've got about four hours of busy highway, haven't we?
0:16:29 > 0:16:33Yeah, so you, I imagine, will have some sort of coronary en route.
0:16:33 > 0:16:37It's 80 kilometres from Tansen to Pokhara.
0:16:37 > 0:16:42There is only one road, but the boys are having trouble finding it.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45Look at this, man. Am I supposed to be going up there?
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- Ah, no, this is totally going up. - Yeah.- Pokhara?
0:16:49 > 0:16:54- This way.- Not this way? - Not this way.- Thank you.
0:16:54 > 0:16:59Do a three-point turn on a deadly cliff. Anyone?
0:16:59 > 0:17:03I need to do a three-point turn, I think I'll do it on a deadly cliff.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06- This is just shale here. - Ah, well done Rhod.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09Oh, my God, I'm not in gear.
0:17:09 > 0:17:12Oh, ho-ho-ho!
0:17:13 > 0:17:20Here we go. "In public should men, A, always wear a shirt,
0:17:20 > 0:17:28"B, at least wear a hat. C, none of the above?"
0:17:28 > 0:17:32- Buzz.- Gilbert, Wales.- Always wear a shirt.- Congratulations.- Thank you.
0:17:32 > 0:17:36"If you get invited for a meal at a private home,
0:17:36 > 0:17:38"what are you expected to bring with you?
0:17:38 > 0:17:41"A, some form of pastry."
0:17:41 > 0:17:44Don't be ridiculous!
0:17:44 > 0:17:47"B, a traditional flower garland for the hostess.
0:17:47 > 0:17:50"C, fruit or sweets."
0:17:52 > 0:17:58- I've got a feeling it's C, fruit or sweets.- Oh, God, correct.- Yeah!
0:17:58 > 0:18:01Have you got some sort of access to my brain?
0:18:03 > 0:18:07Around the corner, they come across another far more sobering custom
0:18:07 > 0:18:10that stops them in their tracks.
0:18:10 > 0:18:13Oh, my God.
0:18:13 > 0:18:17I didn't think you'd be able to so clearly see the body, did you?
0:18:19 > 0:18:20Oh, my God.
0:18:24 > 0:18:27- Did you think you'd be able to see...?- I'd no idea.
0:18:27 > 0:18:30I've never seen anything like that in my life, to be honest.
0:18:32 > 0:18:35Hindus believe in re-incarnation
0:18:35 > 0:18:38and that cremation spiritually benefits the departed soul,
0:18:38 > 0:18:40releasing it from the entrapment of the body.
0:18:43 > 0:18:49Seeing a body burning like that on top of a fire,
0:18:49 > 0:18:52simply that physical sight leaves you pretty numb.
0:18:52 > 0:18:56We tend to hide the physical details of death in England,
0:18:56 > 0:18:58you know, you don't...
0:18:58 > 0:19:02You very clearly see that that's a person there.
0:19:02 > 0:19:04You think about your family, though, don't you?
0:19:04 > 0:19:09You inevitably think about how you would feel in a situation like this.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12It's genuinely quite overwhelming, to be honest.
0:19:25 > 0:19:28Rhod and Greg have made it to Pokhara,
0:19:28 > 0:19:31a town surrounded by the magnificent Himalayan peaks
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- of the Annapurna range. - Woah, look at the views!
0:19:34 > 0:19:38That's the whole of Pokhara beneath us there, and the lake.
0:19:38 > 0:19:41Oh...! You...oh!
0:19:41 > 0:19:43This town depends on tourism from trekkers
0:19:43 > 0:19:47but the boys have come here to explore the controversy
0:19:47 > 0:19:50around one new mountain road.
0:19:50 > 0:19:53Woah, cow on the left, bus on the right.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55Yep, always take the bus out.
0:19:55 > 0:19:57Basically, in Nepal's development,
0:19:57 > 0:20:01roads are pretty much at the heart of everything,
0:20:01 > 0:20:03the heart of progress, the heart of controversy.
0:20:03 > 0:20:06This is one of the more controversial roads, isn't it?
0:20:06 > 0:20:10Because it goes through the Annapurna conservation area
0:20:10 > 0:20:13and this area, really, historically, has just been trekked.
0:20:13 > 0:20:14So people have been on foot.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18Trekkers are just ramblers but they're under 40.
0:20:18 > 0:20:20Trekkers are annoyed about this new route,
0:20:20 > 0:20:23which has just been blown out of the mountain.
0:20:23 > 0:20:25They're annoyed about it
0:20:25 > 0:20:26because they think it ruins the trekking scenery.
0:20:28 > 0:20:30There were no roads in Nepal before the 1950s
0:20:30 > 0:20:33and for centuries a huge network of paths
0:20:33 > 0:20:35carried people and goods between villages.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39New roads are essential for Nepal's development
0:20:39 > 0:20:41but some of them are contentious.
0:20:41 > 0:20:44This is the Annapurna Road and it's not finished.
0:20:44 > 0:20:48It goes from there, all the way up into the Annapurna conservation area.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51We've been told that this is going to be dangerous and difficult.
0:20:51 > 0:20:54Let's hope it's not too frightening because...
0:20:55 > 0:20:57It's an open defecation free zone.
0:20:57 > 0:20:59That is a blow
0:20:59 > 0:21:02because I've been saving something special for this road.
0:21:02 > 0:21:05Don't even think about crapping your pants!
0:21:08 > 0:21:11All right, ease down, action man!
0:21:11 > 0:21:14I'm giving it some laldy, mate, that's what I'm doing.
0:21:14 > 0:21:17You want laldy, I'm going to give it laldy, yeah.
0:21:17 > 0:21:20I didn't ask you to give it laldy!
0:21:20 > 0:21:22Look at the road, man!
0:21:22 > 0:21:25It's literally just been hacked out of the side of this mountain.
0:21:25 > 0:21:30- I'm starting to get...oh! - Look at this! State of this!
0:21:32 > 0:21:34- You're doing very well. - Thank you, mate.
0:21:34 > 0:21:37THEY GROAN WITH EACH JOLT
0:21:37 > 0:21:40Ow, ow, ow!
0:21:40 > 0:21:42Oh, now we are...
0:21:42 > 0:21:44Hold onto your vertebrae!
0:21:47 > 0:21:50Ah, don't get too close to that edge.
0:21:50 > 0:21:55I am bloody glad that it's not really raining and monsoon.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58- Oh, this cow's gone mental.- Jesus!
0:21:58 > 0:22:00Good cow, good cow, good cow.
0:22:03 > 0:22:05Right, concentrate here because over the left-hand side
0:22:05 > 0:22:10we've got a 1,200 metre drop. Don't look down to the side.
0:22:13 > 0:22:17During monsoon season, it's unusual to be able to see any mountains
0:22:17 > 0:22:19but as they reach the end of the road,
0:22:19 > 0:22:22some of the 7,000-metre peaks of the Annapurna range
0:22:22 > 0:22:24briefly show themselves.
0:22:26 > 0:22:29That is literally the end of the road.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32This is as far as vehicles can get
0:22:32 > 0:22:35but from here hundreds of tourists trek for eight days
0:22:35 > 0:22:37to reach the Annapurna base camp.
0:22:37 > 0:22:40So this is pretty much the start of the conservation area.
0:22:40 > 0:22:44The proposed route is to carry on through here, isn't it?
0:22:44 > 0:22:46Yeah, I think so.
0:22:46 > 0:22:48Look at this!
0:22:48 > 0:22:50Oh, wow!
0:22:50 > 0:22:53BELLS JANGLE
0:22:53 > 0:22:56This is about as far as you can get with a car
0:22:56 > 0:22:59but obviously there's other ways to travel!
0:22:59 > 0:23:00Hey, boy, come on.
0:23:00 > 0:23:02Look at the box.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04- This for the road, is it? - This is for the road.
0:23:04 > 0:23:07- Yes.- Yes, where you going?
0:23:07 > 0:23:10We're not going anywhere. We're here.
0:23:10 > 0:23:14- Do many tourists use this road? - Yes, this way the tourists.
0:23:14 > 0:23:17- So when it's not monsoon, tourists come here?- Yes.
0:23:17 > 0:23:21Yes, in bus. Now raining time, not good way.
0:23:21 > 0:23:25No, it's not good. Only idiots would come up here in the rainy time.
0:23:25 > 0:23:30Do people on, er...people who live up here,
0:23:30 > 0:23:32do they all think the road is good?
0:23:32 > 0:23:34- Yes.- They do?- Yeah, yeah.
0:23:34 > 0:23:40Before this road, it was difficult to walk and now easy.
0:23:40 > 0:23:42Is there any people who don't like the road?
0:23:42 > 0:23:45Many tourists, they do not, they like to walk.
0:23:45 > 0:23:48- Ah! The trekkers.- Yeah.
0:23:48 > 0:23:51Why do people want the road to go...to continue?
0:23:51 > 0:23:55Many problem, you know? Some people have accidents and people are sick
0:23:55 > 0:23:59and it is difficult to carry
0:23:59 > 0:24:03and it's not fast, you know?
0:24:03 > 0:24:05- Yeah.- Slow.- Slow.
0:24:05 > 0:24:09- Thank you so much. Nice to meet you. - Thank you, Namaste!- Thank you.
0:24:09 > 0:24:12In between worrying about whether we we're going to die,
0:24:12 > 0:24:16we've been debating whether the road's a good thing and, at the end of the day,
0:24:16 > 0:24:19we've had it conclusively answered by a local, really,
0:24:19 > 0:24:23- it is a good thing.- He was under the impression it was a good thing
0:24:23 > 0:24:26and everybody in the area thought it was a good thing -
0:24:26 > 0:24:30largely for helping the sick and the needy get treatment and get to hospital.
0:24:30 > 0:24:33The only people unhappy with the route are trekkers,
0:24:33 > 0:24:36who feel perhaps that it's ruining...
0:24:36 > 0:24:40That it's not natural and they're not discovering virgin territory.
0:24:41 > 0:24:45Rhod and Greg are now heading back to join the Prithvi Highway,
0:24:45 > 0:24:49Nepal's second ever road, built by the Chinese in 1973.
0:24:50 > 0:24:52After 50Km they head north,
0:24:52 > 0:24:56off the main highway into Nepal's rural heartland.
0:24:58 > 0:25:04We've come off the main highway because this road opens up the agricultural land for the locals.
0:25:06 > 0:25:10One third of Nepal's population still has no road access,
0:25:10 > 0:25:16so cutting new routes into inaccessible rural areas is essential for development.
0:25:16 > 0:25:18This is pretty much exclusively for farmers.
0:25:18 > 0:25:22Farmers, yeah. It's still pretty awful terrain
0:25:22 > 0:25:25but it gives them a chance to trade more effectively I suppose.
0:25:25 > 0:25:28On all sides of us, there are people working the land.
0:25:28 > 0:25:32Kids are working. You see, two, three, four-year-olds carrying stuff on their heads.
0:25:34 > 0:25:38Away from the main road, not much has changed in rural Nepal
0:25:38 > 0:25:40for hundreds of years.
0:25:40 > 0:25:43Most people live off the land
0:25:43 > 0:25:45and survive on less than two dollars a day.
0:25:46 > 0:25:49Only 20% of Nepal's land is suitable for cultivation
0:25:49 > 0:25:53and food deficiency is a constant problem.
0:25:53 > 0:25:56- This guy's asking us to slow down. - Yeah, let's talk to him.
0:25:56 > 0:25:58Namaste! Where you going?
0:25:58 > 0:26:02- Not far.- Not far. Get in.
0:26:03 > 0:26:04What's your name?
0:26:04 > 0:26:05My name is Razu.
0:26:05 > 0:26:08Razu? Why are you here?
0:26:08 > 0:26:10My uncle's house is there.
0:26:10 > 0:26:14- Ah, you're going to see your uncle? - Yes.- Ah, OK. Is he a farmer?
0:26:14 > 0:26:16- Yes.- Is it a good thing, the road?
0:26:16 > 0:26:19Yes, a good thing for farmers, yes, the road.
0:26:19 > 0:26:24Do you remember coming to see your uncle before this road was here?
0:26:24 > 0:26:28- Yes.- So you used to walk? - Yes.- And how long would it take?
0:26:28 > 0:26:32- Four hours.- Four hours to walk! - From here to here.- Really?
0:26:34 > 0:26:3875% of Nepalese live in rural mountainous areas
0:26:38 > 0:26:42and getting new roads and transportation has changed the lives of whole communities.
0:26:42 > 0:26:45- Big bus is coming. - Big bus!- Yes.
0:26:45 > 0:26:46Oh, no, a big bus is coming.
0:26:48 > 0:26:50I don't think the big bus is...
0:26:52 > 0:26:55You're going to have to reverse.
0:27:03 > 0:27:07What do you want to be when you're older?
0:27:07 > 0:27:09- A doctor.- A doctor?- Yes.- Ah!
0:27:09 > 0:27:11It's a good job, a doctor.
0:27:16 > 0:27:20This road just goes straight through the paddy fields.
0:27:20 > 0:27:21Whoa!
0:27:21 > 0:27:26We're watering the fields, doing our little bit for agriculture.
0:27:29 > 0:27:32- You reckon this way, Razu?- Yes. - Doesn't look like a road to me.
0:27:32 > 0:27:34Oh!
0:27:36 > 0:27:37That is good fun.
0:27:40 > 0:27:44This is a good road, very nice. This is the new road.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47This is really smooth by comparison, isn't it?
0:27:47 > 0:27:51Who do you understand better - me or him?
0:27:51 > 0:27:55- When we speak, who do you...? - Yes, you.- Me? Yeah, me, thank you.
0:27:56 > 0:27:59- Is it that important to you?- Yes.
0:27:59 > 0:28:04That you have to be better in the eyes of a 14-year-old hitchhiker?
0:28:05 > 0:28:08You are such a loser.
0:28:13 > 0:28:15Who do you like better?
0:28:15 > 0:28:18Oh, I knew it! I knew it would escalate to that!
0:28:18 > 0:28:20"Who do you like better?"!
0:28:20 > 0:28:23Go on then, ask him, let's find out.
0:28:23 > 0:28:25Who do you like better out of us two?
0:28:25 > 0:28:26You.
0:28:26 > 0:28:29- Good, good boy.- Oh! Get out, Razu, get out and walk!
0:28:29 > 0:28:32You, my friend, have just saved yourself a very long, hot walk!
0:28:33 > 0:28:35Whoa!
0:28:36 > 0:28:38Uh-oh.
0:28:38 > 0:28:41What do you think, Razu, can we cross it?
0:28:41 > 0:28:43- There's a river.- Yes.
0:28:43 > 0:28:45Let's have a look.
0:28:45 > 0:28:47This is part of the road?
0:28:47 > 0:28:51No, they make a new bridge.
0:28:51 > 0:28:52Ah! There's going to be a bridge,
0:28:52 > 0:28:55that's what all this is, going across here.
0:28:55 > 0:28:57- When, today?- No, no!
0:28:57 > 0:28:59LAUGHTER
0:29:04 > 0:29:06How deep is it in the middle section?
0:29:06 > 0:29:08How do I know? Let's do it. Come on.
0:29:09 > 0:29:10Here we go.
0:29:12 > 0:29:15- Oh!- Woo-oh! Can I go straight across here?
0:29:15 > 0:29:20- It looks genuinely deep here. - Avoid there.- It must be because there's tracks there.
0:29:20 > 0:29:25- Put your foot down, put your foot down. That's it, left of that rock. - Oh!- Go on. Go on.
0:29:31 > 0:29:34I'll be getting off here.
0:29:34 > 0:29:36You're getting off here?
0:29:36 > 0:29:38Oh, Razu!
0:29:40 > 0:29:45- This is where you're getting out? - Yes.- This is where you leave us, Razu.- Where does your uncle live?
0:29:45 > 0:29:49- This way.- What, up in the hills? - Yes.- You're going to walk up there?
0:29:49 > 0:29:53- Yes.- Good luck with being a doctor, Razu.- Yes.- Goodbye.
0:29:59 > 0:30:03This is to build the road, to keep going, yeah?
0:30:03 > 0:30:06- But you want the road?- Yeah. - Why is the road important?
0:30:06 > 0:30:10Our products, to sell them. We have many apples, banana...
0:30:10 > 0:30:15- Oh, fruits!- Yes, we have many fruits but we can't sell this. So it is necessary to make road.
0:30:15 > 0:30:19Before the road, how long did it take to go to Pokhara?
0:30:19 > 0:30:22- Three days.- Three days.- Three days.
0:30:22 > 0:30:26- So it chops the time by a third at least.- OK, thank you very much.
0:30:31 > 0:30:3343% of Nepal's exports go to India,
0:30:33 > 0:30:37whereas only a fraction of its produce goes north to China.
0:30:38 > 0:30:42The country relies on imports from both its wealthy neighbours.
0:30:45 > 0:30:50Here's an interesting fact. 100% of Nepal's fuel
0:30:50 > 0:30:52comes from India.
0:30:52 > 0:30:54- Really?- Yes.
0:30:54 > 0:30:58Well, that's why... No wonder India's helping build the roads.
0:30:58 > 0:31:03Yeah, but it's such a small country, Nepal, you wouldn't have thought... I dunno.
0:31:03 > 0:31:06Yeah, but if they're buying all their fuel from India,
0:31:06 > 0:31:09then no wonder there is a vested interest in India
0:31:09 > 0:31:12funding and investing in Nepal's roads,
0:31:12 > 0:31:16so they can get their fuel in and out easier and quicker and it's only a land border.
0:31:16 > 0:31:20- So it's not like it's any different to driving anywhere in India.- Yes.
0:31:20 > 0:31:23The only difference is that the roads aren't as good here,
0:31:23 > 0:31:26so that's why they're investing in them.
0:31:27 > 0:31:30- You just can't cope...- Ssshh!
0:31:30 > 0:31:33- You just can't cope...- Sh!
0:31:33 > 0:31:36Greg can't cope with geo-politics.
0:31:36 > 0:31:38CHANTS: Greg can't cope with geo-politics!
0:31:38 > 0:31:41Greg can't cope with geo-politics!
0:31:41 > 0:31:42# I know a bloke called Greg
0:31:42 > 0:31:44# Who can't, he can't cope
0:31:44 > 0:31:46# I know a bloke called Greg
0:31:46 > 0:31:49# Who can't cope with facts about the Indian subcontinent. #
0:31:49 > 0:31:50- Yes, I can!- No, you can't.
0:31:50 > 0:31:53I can! They call me Mr Geo-politics where I come from.
0:31:56 > 0:32:00Rhod and Greg are now driving 100km east,
0:32:00 > 0:32:02towards the capital, Kathmandu.
0:32:04 > 0:32:07The Prithvi Highway is Nepal's M1.
0:32:07 > 0:32:10It's the main east/west artery and is heavily congested
0:32:10 > 0:32:12with trucks and buses.
0:32:14 > 0:32:17The road twists and turns with sickening drops
0:32:17 > 0:32:19to a raging river below.
0:32:19 > 0:32:22People die here nearly every day
0:32:22 > 0:32:25and the driving can only be described as suicidal.
0:32:25 > 0:32:27According to the local newspaper,
0:32:27 > 0:32:30"Floods, landslides take their toll across the country.
0:32:30 > 0:32:32"Continuous rainfall for the past few days
0:32:32 > 0:32:35"has triggered floods and landslides in different parts of the country.
0:32:35 > 0:32:39"A woman was injured and her three sons all died
0:32:39 > 0:32:42"when a landslide swept them away at 8am today.
0:32:42 > 0:32:46"The woman was on her way to a nearby tap to fetch water."
0:32:46 > 0:32:47Oh, no.
0:32:47 > 0:32:52Just brings it home, doesn't it? "A nearby tap!"
0:32:52 > 0:32:55Look at this, look at this! Here we go!
0:32:55 > 0:32:56HE BEEPS HORN
0:32:56 > 0:32:59Look at this lorry coming now.
0:32:59 > 0:33:02Just keep on this side but don't let him push you off the road.
0:33:02 > 0:33:04He's coming past me.
0:33:04 > 0:33:08Oh, that's the way! He wants to come in here now. Christ!
0:33:08 > 0:33:11I have not seen one place where I would think it was safe to overtake.
0:33:11 > 0:33:13Right, he's telling you to go.
0:33:13 > 0:33:15All right, let's take his advice.
0:33:15 > 0:33:20- This'll be interesting. - Oh, brilliant! Whoa, lorry right over our side!
0:33:20 > 0:33:24- You're all right. - I lost the back end there.
0:33:24 > 0:33:28Look at this! I mean, what the f... can I do with that?
0:33:29 > 0:33:33Look at this! Unbelievable!
0:33:33 > 0:33:35Just eating, literally, on a bend!
0:33:35 > 0:33:37On a blind bend.
0:33:37 > 0:33:39That is incredible!
0:33:39 > 0:33:44A family lay out a carpet rug and put tureens out and a full,
0:33:44 > 0:33:47full picnic taking up the entire lane on a blind bend.
0:33:47 > 0:33:51That is the maddest thing I have ever seen in my life!
0:33:51 > 0:33:53- Oh, here, chickens!- Whoa!
0:33:53 > 0:33:55- They're alive!- They're not?
0:33:55 > 0:33:57- They are!- Oh, my god!
0:33:57 > 0:34:00Even the chickens are going, "This is a crazy place to overtake."
0:34:01 > 0:34:03- This is madness! - HORN TOOTS
0:34:03 > 0:34:06Bloody hell! I'm a nervous wreck!
0:34:06 > 0:34:09It's now getting dark and their nerves are in tatters.
0:34:11 > 0:34:16If he'd have been coming round ten seconds earlier there, you'd have had a real problem.
0:34:16 > 0:34:18This is dangerous.
0:34:18 > 0:34:20This is fucking dangerous...
0:34:20 > 0:34:23what we're doing here.
0:34:26 > 0:34:28The boys decide to pull over.
0:34:28 > 0:34:31They're still 70km from Kathmandu
0:34:31 > 0:34:33and they need to make a decision.
0:34:34 > 0:34:37Both of them have been warned about the dangers of driving at night
0:34:37 > 0:34:41but the accommodation that's on offer is not that inviting.
0:34:41 > 0:34:43Well, what do you want to do?
0:34:43 > 0:34:46Well, in all seriousness, we are between a rock and a hard place.
0:34:46 > 0:34:49I think both our options, in all seriousness, are a nightmare.
0:34:49 > 0:34:55Yeah, but I'm expressing an opinion. My opinion is we should drive to Kathmandu, what is your opinion?
0:34:55 > 0:34:59- Well, your opinion I think is actively dangerous.- Yeah.
0:34:59 > 0:35:02And staying here is just horrible.
0:35:02 > 0:35:06Well, we can sleep in the car. I don't mind sleeping in the car.
0:35:08 > 0:35:12I don't wanna sleep in the car but I think...
0:35:12 > 0:35:15I think the road is less dangerous at night.
0:35:15 > 0:35:16I think, and I mean this,
0:35:16 > 0:35:19I think the road is less dangerous at night.
0:35:19 > 0:35:23I think the only option really is to try the road for a few minutes
0:35:23 > 0:35:28and if it's too hairy and it's just like the day but worse, then we stop.
0:35:30 > 0:35:34All right, yeah. Let's try it for a bit.
0:35:39 > 0:35:41Got your lights on?
0:35:42 > 0:35:46- Yep.- The difficulty now is that we can see lights coming towards us
0:35:46 > 0:35:47but we don't know what it is.
0:35:47 > 0:35:50You see one light and think it's a motorbike
0:35:50 > 0:35:52but it's a lorry with one light.
0:35:52 > 0:35:54I can't see shit.
0:35:55 > 0:35:56Shit.
0:35:58 > 0:36:01Oh, my God, do you see that?
0:36:04 > 0:36:06You're all right. You're all right.
0:36:07 > 0:36:11- Oh! Get out! Whoa! You all right? - Yeah, fine.
0:36:11 > 0:36:14I think he was overtaking.
0:36:14 > 0:36:17What did I tell you about this road being nicer at night?
0:36:17 > 0:36:21Well, it's certainly quieter at night, wouldn't say it's nice.
0:36:34 > 0:36:38The city of Kathmandu dates back to 300 AD,
0:36:38 > 0:36:42when it was the crossroads of two important trade routes.
0:36:42 > 0:36:45Its population has trebled in the last 20 years to over a million
0:36:45 > 0:36:49and today its streets are noisy, polluted
0:36:49 > 0:36:52and heavily congested.
0:36:52 > 0:36:57We survived the road last night, after a deeply unpleasant drive.
0:36:57 > 0:37:00We're trying to navigate our way through Kathmandu.
0:37:00 > 0:37:03- Mate, I kinda think we should go left, you know?- Do you?
0:37:03 > 0:37:06Instinct tells me left.
0:37:06 > 0:37:09They're now on the final leg of their journey,
0:37:09 > 0:37:11fighting through the Kathmandu traffic,
0:37:11 > 0:37:15heading for the Chinese border 140km away.
0:37:15 > 0:37:19Ah, this is great! Go right down here, Ramsha Path.
0:37:19 > 0:37:23Or we could be turning right, up Ramsha Path, which means we've gone horribly wrong.
0:37:23 > 0:37:25Down here it forks, right and left.
0:37:25 > 0:37:28- Does it?- Yeah.- Oh, shit! - Should we be in this bit of road?
0:37:28 > 0:37:33- I dunno. Go left, I reckon.- All right.- Oh, whoa! Beep, beep, beep!
0:37:33 > 0:37:36HORN BLARES
0:37:36 > 0:37:40What's the waving, what's that mean? Do I stop or do I go? Do I...?
0:37:40 > 0:37:44- Stop, stop. Go, go, go!- I go now? Should I Namaste or should I go?!
0:37:44 > 0:37:45I have no idea what's going on.
0:37:45 > 0:37:47There were two policewomen there,
0:37:47 > 0:37:51who gave us directly conflicting information with the same hand movement.
0:37:51 > 0:37:54Oh, camera's fallen off the front!
0:37:55 > 0:37:57And I've just gone over it.
0:38:03 > 0:38:06The system is, wait to see a gap and then run like a fat ostrich.
0:38:06 > 0:38:08And fat ostrich!
0:38:10 > 0:38:14Thank you so much. So straight down there and turn right?
0:38:14 > 0:38:18- Yes, straight.- Yes. First right? - Yes, first right.- OK.
0:38:18 > 0:38:21- So straight, straight, straight, then turn left.- And left.
0:38:22 > 0:38:26Whoa, mate! The bike, the bike!
0:38:26 > 0:38:29Don't come on my inside when I'm indicating!
0:38:29 > 0:38:31And, you, don't ride your rickshaw up the wrong side of the street!
0:38:31 > 0:38:36It's a very different beep to the rural beep of, "Hello, I'm here, I'm in the area."
0:38:36 > 0:38:42- Which way?- Oh, left?- Left.- Right. - Right.- Oh, hello!
0:38:42 > 0:38:47- Hello, is this a one-way street? I think I'm the wrong way up, am I? - I don't know.- No, I don't care.
0:38:47 > 0:38:50You would swear we were going the wrong way down a one-way street
0:38:50 > 0:38:53because there are people fully on our side throughout. Whoa!
0:38:57 > 0:39:00The boys eventually make it to the outskirts of Kathmandu.
0:39:00 > 0:39:04- Back to the madness of the, er... - The Arniko Highway.
0:39:07 > 0:39:10The Arniko Highway was built by the Chinese
0:39:10 > 0:39:15and remains the only road between Nepal and its powerful northern neighbour.
0:39:15 > 0:39:19The road follows the path of an ancient trading route
0:39:19 > 0:39:24that eventually leads to Lhasa, the ancient Tibetan capital.
0:39:26 > 0:39:30In 1950, the People's Republic of China invaded Tibet
0:39:30 > 0:39:35and the area is now referred to as the Tibet Autonomous Region.
0:39:35 > 0:39:39You can see why it's so busy, if it's literally the only road into the neighbouring country.
0:39:39 > 0:39:44Yeah. It's full of trucks and lorries.
0:39:44 > 0:39:47They're just rammed and full of people on the top as well as inside.
0:39:52 > 0:39:54The route is susceptible to flooding and landslides
0:39:54 > 0:39:57and their progress towards the border is slow.
0:39:59 > 0:40:01Whoa, landslide!
0:40:01 > 0:40:03Uh-oh, landslide!
0:40:04 > 0:40:07It's a big one, look at that! Massive landslide.
0:40:09 > 0:40:12Look at the power of that!
0:40:12 > 0:40:15It's no wonder landslides - look at it!
0:40:15 > 0:40:19Oh! Oh, this looks fresh as well.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22- Can you not hang about here for very long?- Well, I dunno what to do.
0:40:22 > 0:40:24Go on, go on, go on, go on.
0:40:24 > 0:40:28They are now entering a region of Nepal
0:40:28 > 0:40:32where over 3,000mm of rain falls every year.
0:40:33 > 0:40:36Right, he flashed me. That means he's coming through, doesn't it?
0:40:38 > 0:40:40I just crashed into that tree.
0:40:40 > 0:40:42You got stuck?
0:40:42 > 0:40:45ENGINE REVS
0:40:46 > 0:40:48- Bollocks!- Unbelievable!
0:40:48 > 0:40:51I think the car is sinking down that bank.
0:40:51 > 0:40:52Let's have a look.
0:40:56 > 0:41:01This is like sinking mud. It's just, like, totally turdy.
0:41:01 > 0:41:04So we've travelled some of the most dangerous roads in Nepal
0:41:04 > 0:41:07and Rhod has managed to get us stuck in a verge.
0:41:09 > 0:41:10It's really sunk down, though.
0:41:10 > 0:41:13I know, it's six inches deep there, yeah.
0:41:13 > 0:41:17Basically, what's happened is Greg was sitting on the passenger side
0:41:17 > 0:41:19and the road has just actually sunk.
0:41:19 > 0:41:21ENGINE REVS
0:41:23 > 0:41:27On cue, the heavens open and the monsoon rain adds to their troubles.
0:41:27 > 0:41:29I think it's sinking more.
0:41:29 > 0:41:32- This gentleman's going to help give us a push.- You're going to push? - Yeah.
0:41:32 > 0:41:37- Go on! Greg, is pulling the car back a good idea?- Yeah.
0:41:37 > 0:41:39Right, now go forward!
0:41:41 > 0:41:44I'm coming back again! Stinks of shit this mud as well.
0:41:47 > 0:41:49Up and down. Up and down.
0:41:49 > 0:41:51- Up and down.- On the accelerator? - Yeah, yeah.- OK.
0:41:51 > 0:41:54Up and down, up and down.
0:41:58 > 0:42:00- YES! YES! - HORN BEEPS
0:42:00 > 0:42:02Thank you, guys.
0:42:02 > 0:42:05- Thank you so much. What's your name? - Rajesh.
0:42:05 > 0:42:08Thank you very much. You're very kind.
0:42:08 > 0:42:13Try not to do it again, Greg. Try to lean your weight into the middle of the car.
0:42:19 > 0:42:22With heavy rain and night falling,
0:42:22 > 0:42:25the boys abandon trying to reach the border
0:42:25 > 0:42:29and seek refuge for the night in a small guest house across the gorge.
0:42:33 > 0:42:39Morning. I've just woken up on day...
0:42:41 > 0:42:44..I think we're on day six.
0:42:44 > 0:42:47The more I've been on this trip, the more I've sort of...
0:42:47 > 0:42:52I shouldn't regret anything but I've really regretted the fact I've not seen more of the world.
0:42:55 > 0:42:59Because I think, you know, to be a middle-aged man
0:42:59 > 0:43:01and to be seeing these things for the first time,
0:43:01 > 0:43:05it's brilliant, actually, it's brilliant. It's been amazing.
0:43:09 > 0:43:11It's kind of like having your eyes opened.
0:43:11 > 0:43:15And you think, "What have I been doing then? What have I been doing?"
0:43:15 > 0:43:19Er...and the answer is...
0:43:19 > 0:43:22worrying, probably,
0:43:22 > 0:43:26about things that you don't need to worry about.
0:43:30 > 0:43:31How did you sleep?
0:43:31 > 0:43:35Well, I had, er...
0:43:35 > 0:43:37I got about five or six minutes' sleep.
0:43:37 > 0:43:41I was covered in ants. There was a gecko that I couldn't get rid of,
0:43:41 > 0:43:43that kept trying to get up my nose.
0:43:43 > 0:43:47Would you feel any better to know I had eight-and-a-half solid hours and I feel amazing?
0:43:47 > 0:43:49It really does.
0:43:50 > 0:43:57When we crossed this bridge, did you quite realise how high it was?
0:43:57 > 0:44:00No, but it was dark.
0:44:00 > 0:44:02Oh!
0:44:08 > 0:44:10Right, sleepy, let's go to it!
0:44:10 > 0:44:15- I feel worse because you feel really good and have had loads of sleep. - Oh, that's not very generous.
0:44:15 > 0:44:18No, just when you've had no sleep you just want somebody else to say
0:44:18 > 0:44:21they haven't had any, so you feel a bit better.
0:44:21 > 0:44:25You've had eight-and-a-half hours. You've had some of my sleep, I feel.
0:44:25 > 0:44:27So what do you want me to do, pretend I feel shit?
0:44:27 > 0:44:31- We should've had four hours each, rather than you have eight and me have none.- OK.
0:44:32 > 0:44:37Rhod and Greg are now only 15km from the Chinese border
0:44:37 > 0:44:38and their journey's end
0:44:38 > 0:44:43but as they head north, dark clouds gather and the downpour begins.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46- Look at that!- Whoa!
0:44:48 > 0:44:51There's rocks three or four times the size of this car
0:44:51 > 0:44:55that have come down the mountain here. There's another landslide here.
0:44:55 > 0:44:57Look at this landslide rock here.
0:44:57 > 0:45:00Imagine that falling down in front of you! Great!
0:45:03 > 0:45:06That's where it fell from, look.
0:45:09 > 0:45:13I don't think it's anything like the beauty of other places we've seen.
0:45:13 > 0:45:15There's something sinister about it.
0:45:19 > 0:45:23It's a very big drop down that one. Very sheer.
0:45:27 > 0:45:30I tell you what, they're far more regular, the landslides today.
0:45:30 > 0:45:32It's every 50 yards.
0:45:36 > 0:45:37I genuinely don't like this.
0:45:37 > 0:45:40Yeah, the road is worsening, it's getting worse.
0:45:40 > 0:45:43- There's a bulldozer up here. - Oh, yeah.
0:45:43 > 0:45:45Hell.
0:45:53 > 0:45:57This is awful, treacherous conditions. This is awful.
0:45:57 > 0:46:00Ah, no way, no way!
0:46:00 > 0:46:02- No way!- I'm not going up there.
0:46:02 > 0:46:05No, no, that's absurd.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08That is crazy. I think we need to get out and go have a look.
0:46:18 > 0:46:20Is it blocked? Blocked?
0:46:32 > 0:46:35All right, mate? This looks like it could be a wait.
0:46:39 > 0:46:41Look at that!
0:46:41 > 0:46:43Shit!
0:46:46 > 0:46:49- Look, there's bits coming down. - There's stuff coming down here.
0:46:49 > 0:46:51This has obviously just happened.
0:46:56 > 0:46:59When did this happen? Today?
0:46:59 > 0:47:00Today.
0:47:00 > 0:47:04Today this happened, really? When will they clear it? Not today?
0:47:04 > 0:47:06No?
0:47:08 > 0:47:13You can see this... see the rocks coming down, look.
0:47:13 > 0:47:16I'm not sure we should be standing here, mate, really.
0:47:16 > 0:47:21- Look at these people, living underneath it basically.- Oh, my God, how must they be feeling?!
0:47:21 > 0:47:23- Today?- Yes, today.
0:47:23 > 0:47:27- Is this where you live?- Yes.
0:47:27 > 0:47:30- Are you worried?- Hotel. - This is your hotel?
0:47:30 > 0:47:33- Yes, small hotel.- Really?
0:47:33 > 0:47:37- Are you worried it's going to come down more?- Whoa, whoa, whoa!
0:47:37 > 0:47:39Look!
0:47:42 > 0:47:44Jesus!
0:47:44 > 0:47:48Basically, we are in...we are standing in the middle of a landslide
0:47:48 > 0:47:50that is still happening basically.
0:47:53 > 0:47:57This is obviously quite a key... Whoa...
0:47:57 > 0:47:59Man!
0:47:59 > 0:48:02- Look at this!- What you genuinely don't know is how much of that
0:48:02 > 0:48:05could at any moment really come down.
0:48:06 > 0:48:09Look at this! Whoa, whoa, whoa!
0:48:09 > 0:48:10Look out!
0:48:10 > 0:48:14Whoa, that big one's going.
0:48:14 > 0:48:17Shitting hell!
0:48:17 > 0:48:22I think, um...I've probably seen enough of this landslide.
0:48:23 > 0:48:27What I actually think is this is probably the end of the road.
0:48:29 > 0:48:33So whether we'll see China or not, I don't know.
0:48:33 > 0:48:37How far to China? How far?
0:48:51 > 0:48:53Basically, we can't get any further.
0:48:53 > 0:48:55This isn't going to be cleared for ages.
0:48:55 > 0:49:00There's a massive drop there. There's no way they can get rid of this.
0:49:00 > 0:49:05So I think what we'll have to do is either go back and call it off...
0:49:05 > 0:49:09but I personally am pretty determined to try and get there.
0:49:09 > 0:49:12But we can't get past this, so the only way is to walk across there
0:49:12 > 0:49:14and pick up a lift from people going that way.
0:49:14 > 0:49:18I don't want to stay because I've had four locals say to me
0:49:18 > 0:49:21that this whole bank could go,
0:49:21 > 0:49:24so I propose if we're going to do it, let's just get on with it.
0:49:24 > 0:49:27We feel like we've come all this way,
0:49:27 > 0:49:32we ought to try and make it to the Chinese/Tibetan border now.
0:49:32 > 0:49:37In a bizarre turn of events, both Greg and I have suddenly got the bit between our teeth
0:49:37 > 0:49:40and become quite steely and determined,
0:49:40 > 0:49:43whereas pretty much for the whole week we've been cowardly.
0:49:43 > 0:49:46I think, basically, we've got to move.
0:50:02 > 0:50:05Come on, mate, don't hang about. Let's get it over with.
0:50:18 > 0:50:19Whoa!
0:50:39 > 0:50:41Why are they shouting?
0:50:54 > 0:50:57We going to try and get a bus or a lorry to take us?
0:50:58 > 0:51:04Well, either that or we walk onto the next little hamlety village thing
0:51:04 > 0:51:07and maybe somebody's going from there.
0:51:11 > 0:51:14Do you know, is the bus going?
0:51:14 > 0:51:16Are you going to the border?
0:51:19 > 0:51:22Border? With Tibet and China?
0:51:22 > 0:51:25- Yeah.- You go? Ah! Now? Is it going now?
0:51:25 > 0:51:27Now. We go now?
0:51:27 > 0:51:29Part of me thinks we should get on the roof, mate.
0:51:29 > 0:51:34From a safety point of view, part of me thinks we should get on the roof.
0:51:34 > 0:51:37- Really?- Well, you can jump off, that's why they go up there.
0:51:37 > 0:51:41I mean, it's mental. Terrifying but that's why - so they can jump off.
0:51:41 > 0:51:43Inside, you're buggered.
0:51:46 > 0:51:47Look at it.
0:51:53 > 0:51:56- Do you wanna go on the roof? - No. Let's get in here.
0:51:58 > 0:52:00Is it safe, the bus?
0:52:00 > 0:52:04Don't ask him! He's not going to tell you, "No, it's a death trap!"
0:52:04 > 0:52:05Well, yeah, I know.
0:52:16 > 0:52:21The conditions are horrific now. The monsoon is really tipping down
0:52:21 > 0:52:24and this road is, as we've seen, landsliding as we speak.
0:52:28 > 0:52:31Jesus Christ almighty!
0:52:37 > 0:52:41We've got a child hanging out of the door, making sure they can get through various gaps.
0:52:43 > 0:52:47It doesn't do much for the stress levels, does it,
0:52:47 > 0:52:52between that and the banging and the drop and the potential landslide?
0:52:52 > 0:52:57- Why are we doing this? - HORN TOOTS FRANTICALLY
0:52:57 > 0:53:00I don't really know any more, to be honest.
0:53:02 > 0:53:04Unbelievable.
0:53:09 > 0:53:11I think we should get off here.
0:53:11 > 0:53:13I think we should get off the bus here.
0:53:16 > 0:53:17This is...
0:53:17 > 0:53:20Rhod, get off the bus.
0:53:20 > 0:53:22Oh, my God! Don't look now, mate.
0:53:22 > 0:53:27Don't look now but the earth is literally giving way beneath us down there. It is.
0:53:27 > 0:53:29Get ready for this fucking window then.
0:53:32 > 0:53:34- Right, we're through it. - Fucking hell!
0:53:39 > 0:53:40HORN TOOTS
0:53:43 > 0:53:47We were literally... I was looking outside.
0:53:47 > 0:53:51We were about two foot from the very verge and as we went over it,
0:53:51 > 0:53:53- it was going beneath our weight. - Was it?
0:53:53 > 0:53:55It was going. We were making it go.
0:53:57 > 0:53:58This is just insane.
0:54:01 > 0:54:05Enormous landslides to our right again.
0:54:20 > 0:54:23So we've just been told that we've nearly made it.
0:54:23 > 0:54:28We're nearly at the Chinese border, the end of our journey.
0:54:28 > 0:54:31I don't think, setting off this morning,
0:54:31 > 0:54:36either of us expected it to be quite such a dramatic ending really.
0:54:36 > 0:54:40Yeah, it's awesome. It really feels like the culmination of a journey.
0:54:40 > 0:54:43It feels like we're crossing a finish line of some kind.
0:54:43 > 0:54:50I feel like this poncho is one of those silver foil things you get at the end of the London Marathon.
0:54:50 > 0:54:53That's what strikes you, I think, that we are doing this and for me
0:54:53 > 0:54:58it's going to be a huge relief to see that welcome to China, whatever's there, the end of our journey.
0:54:58 > 0:55:00We're done, we're finished, and for me that's a massive relief.
0:55:00 > 0:55:05And you forget this guy will be up at six o'clock in the morning doing it all again, and again.
0:55:05 > 0:55:08Every day is dangerous bloody roads for him.
0:55:08 > 0:55:12Look at this! As we're talking, we're just driving through a river.
0:55:19 > 0:55:21Before this trip, if somebody had asked me
0:55:21 > 0:55:23what's the bravest thing you've ever done?
0:55:23 > 0:55:27The only brave thing I've ever done is attempting stand-up comedy.
0:55:27 > 0:55:33So it has surpassed my expectations. It's just honestly been wonderful.
0:55:37 > 0:55:39You think you've seen it all,
0:55:39 > 0:55:42then you see something that totally blows your mind.
0:55:42 > 0:55:44And I think that's a real highlight -
0:55:44 > 0:55:47just seeing those little moments.
0:56:03 > 0:56:08My attitude towards risk now, I honestly think, has changed,
0:56:08 > 0:56:12which will almost certainly mean in the next six months I'm killed!
0:56:16 > 0:56:19I'm amazing myself! Even though my job is stand-up comedy,
0:56:19 > 0:56:22and you don't do that unless you thrive on adrenaline,
0:56:22 > 0:56:25I didn't think it would translate into other areas but it does.
0:56:26 > 0:56:29- So where is the border?- Five minutes.
0:56:29 > 0:56:34It's five minutes that way. OK.
0:56:34 > 0:56:37- Is this China, peaking through the clouds here?- I imagine it is, yeah.
0:56:37 > 0:56:39That is phenomenal if it is.
0:56:51 > 0:56:54- It's got a really odd feel about it, this place.- Yeah.
0:56:54 > 0:56:58It's like something out of a Bond movie, so Cold War, innit?
0:56:58 > 0:57:02Wow, look, austere buildings.
0:57:02 > 0:57:05Totally like a Bond film.
0:57:05 > 0:57:08I was expecting him to be a bit of a nightmare out here
0:57:08 > 0:57:12and I was expecting to have to be the one to say, "Come on, mate."
0:57:12 > 0:57:18And talk him down but actually he's taken to it like a massive, fat, grotesque duck to water.
0:57:18 > 0:57:22This has been such a culture shock for me, this whole experience,
0:57:22 > 0:57:29and just through this gate and across a small bridge is an entirely different world.
0:57:29 > 0:57:31I'm guessing this is as far as we can go, mate.
0:57:31 > 0:57:34I've got an urge to touch the gates, haven't you?
0:57:38 > 0:57:40I will never say this to his face
0:57:40 > 0:57:42but Rhod is a really good friend of mine
0:57:42 > 0:57:45and I value his friendship a great deal.
0:57:45 > 0:57:49But, you know, for the purpose of whenever he's with me,
0:57:49 > 0:57:52I will only ever refer to him as a total bell-end.
0:57:52 > 0:57:54Can we come through?
0:57:54 > 0:57:56Can we come?
0:57:56 > 0:57:58- No, no.- No?
0:57:58 > 0:58:02- Rhod, no. - Aren't you tempted? One last push?
0:58:02 > 0:58:04- It's over.- One last push?- No.
0:58:04 > 0:58:06I know how we can end this.
0:58:06 > 0:58:09We can do what we've been longing to do and embrace.
0:58:09 > 0:58:13Nepal's a friendlier place than China and men are allowed to show affection for each other.
0:58:13 > 0:58:17- They are.- We can just stroll off into the sunset hand-in-hand in Nepali fashion.
0:58:17 > 0:58:20Just hand-in-hand I was going to say.
0:58:20 > 0:58:22Shall we have a little hug? And, er, say goodbye.
0:58:22 > 0:58:25- Yeah.- Feels all right, you know.
0:58:25 > 0:58:27- Back to friendly Nepal. - Feels all right.
0:58:44 > 0:58:46Subtitles By Red Bee Media Ltd
0:58:46 > 0:58:50E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk