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0:00:02 > 0:00:06- Wales's mansions and estates - have adorned our history...
0:00:07 > 0:00:10- ..and shaped our landscape - for centuries.
0:00:10 > 0:00:14- Mansions were reputedly - the homes of greedy Englishmen...
0:00:14 > 0:00:18- ..who sucked wealth from the land - and oppressed ordinary people.
0:00:18 > 0:00:22- But today - we can tell a different story.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- By delving into history, - we uncover the unexpected.
0:00:27 > 0:00:29- It's so fascinating...
0:00:29 > 0:00:34- ..that mansions and estates played - a central role within Welsh society.
0:00:34 > 0:00:37- Hundreds of mansions - have been demolished...
0:00:37 > 0:00:41- ..but some owners remain - in the towns of their forefathers.
0:00:41 > 0:00:46- It's impossible to run an estate - such as this just with your head.
0:00:47 > 0:00:50- It has to also come from the heart.
0:00:52 > 0:00:56- Others yearn for - the old traditional way of life.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- They were tough times - but they were happy times.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05- The mansion's history is firmly - rooted in the Welsh tradition.
0:01:13 > 0:01:15- Welcome to Trawsgoed Mansion.
0:01:21 > 0:01:24- This mansion - near Aberystwyth is for sale.
0:01:24 > 0:01:28- This is the main entrance. - Imagine this 100 years ago.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32- It would have been ostentatious - with grand furniture...
0:01:32 > 0:01:34- ..and a roaring fire.
0:01:34 > 0:01:37- This is the room - that would greet you.
0:01:37 > 0:01:40- The current mansion, - which has 70 rooms...
0:01:41 > 0:01:44- ..was built - in the Victorian and Georgian eras.
0:01:44 > 0:01:48- The estate belonged - to the same family for 750 years.
0:01:49 > 0:01:55- The history of the mansions has, - to some extent, been misinterpreted.
0:01:55 > 0:01:58- The mansion's image...
0:01:58 > 0:02:01- ..is that of - a rather oppressive building...
0:02:02 > 0:02:06- ..with an unscrupulous family - living within its walls.
0:02:06 > 0:02:08- But curiously...
0:02:08 > 0:02:13- ..mansions and estates were actually - central to the communities in Wales.
0:02:13 > 0:02:15- This room served as a library.
0:02:15 > 0:02:20- Books were displayed on the walls - either side of the fireplace.
0:02:20 > 0:02:23- When showing the house - to prospective buyers...
0:02:24 > 0:02:27- ..this room is all important, - they love to make an entrance.
0:02:28 > 0:02:30- The ceiling commands attention...
0:02:30 > 0:02:36- ..and the French doors overlooking - the garden are also impressive.
0:02:36 > 0:02:41- Sir John Vaughan formed the modern - estate during Charles I's reign.
0:02:42 > 0:02:47- In its heyday, the sprawling estate - covered 42,000 acres.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52- Influential people came here - to stay with the Vaughan family.
0:02:55 > 0:02:57- Let's go into the living room...
0:02:57 > 0:03:02- ..where portraits of famous - people who visited over the years...
0:03:02 > 0:03:04- ..adorn the walls.
0:03:09 > 0:03:13- This staircase - was installed two centuries ago.
0:03:13 > 0:03:18- The spindles have been created - from a single piece of wood.
0:03:18 > 0:03:22- The craftsmanship is amazing. - Look at this carved pineapple.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- Let me guide you - into the main bedroom.
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- King Edward VIII once stayed here.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34- When he visited Trawsgoed...
0:03:34 > 0:03:37- ..he was the Prince of Wales.
0:03:37 > 0:03:42- Before he arrived, - they made sure he had the best room.
0:03:42 > 0:03:46- They installed - this remarkable fireplace...
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- ..to make - the Prince of Wales feel at home.
0:03:49 > 0:03:52- I'm sure he had a splendid time.
0:03:57 > 0:04:02- The family sold the mansion - and the estate following WWII.
0:04:02 > 0:04:04- Only the hunting - and fishing rights...
0:04:05 > 0:04:09- ..and the inherited title belongs - to the current heir, John Vaughan.
0:04:12 > 0:04:15- In terms of restoring - a house like this...
0:04:15 > 0:04:20- ..the intricate features - have already been completed.
0:04:21 > 0:04:26- Someone would need close to half - a million to finish the restoration.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- But you have to be - sympathetic to the period.
0:04:29 > 0:04:32- You couldn't install - a budget kitchen!
0:04:32 > 0:04:35- You'd need - the right tiles and furnishings...
0:04:35 > 0:04:38- ..to ensure - it's in keeping with the period.
0:04:38 > 0:04:43- If you were to buy - the entire property today...
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- ..it would set you back 1,770,000.
0:04:53 > 0:04:58- But the wealth of mansions - is defined in ways other than cash.
0:04:58 > 0:05:01- In South East Wales are the homes...
0:05:01 > 0:05:04- ..of a family - famous for its Welsh welcome.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08- For centuries, they were - important centres of Welsh culture.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20- Good morning.
0:05:20 > 0:05:23- Good morning. - Welcome To Tredegar House.
0:05:23 > 0:05:25- My name's Steffan.
0:05:26 > 0:05:29- Tredegar House is one - of Wales's grandest mansions.
0:05:29 > 0:05:34- It was home to the Morgan family, - a traditional Welsh family.
0:05:34 > 0:05:38- The Morgans - were proud of their Welshness.
0:05:38 > 0:05:40- Come inside.
0:05:40 > 0:05:45- What better way to promote Welshness - than by boasting about your lineage?
0:05:45 > 0:05:48- The Morgan family's genealogy...
0:05:48 > 0:05:52- ..dates back to the - 10th-century rulers of Glamorgan.
0:05:52 > 0:05:56- In Wales, a greater emphasis - was placed on genealogy...
0:05:56 > 0:05:57- ..than in England.
0:05:58 > 0:06:03- The ability to boast - a long and noble lineage...
0:06:03 > 0:06:07- ..was often considered more - important than wealth in Wales.
0:06:07 > 0:06:12- More significant than aristocratic - lineage was immortality.
0:06:12 > 0:06:14- One sure way - of being immortalized...
0:06:15 > 0:06:17- ..was to patronize a poet - to sing your praises.
0:06:18 > 0:06:22- Ifor Hael - was one of the three sons...
0:06:22 > 0:06:24- ..of Llywelyn ab Ifor.
0:06:24 > 0:06:29- Llywelyn ab Ifor came here to - establish the family in the area.
0:06:29 > 0:06:34- Morgan, the eldest son, - lived here at Tredegar House.
0:06:34 > 0:06:38- Ifor was the second son - and lived in Gwern Y Cleppa.
0:06:39 > 0:06:41- He secured - the patronage of the poets...
0:06:42 > 0:06:45- ..the most famous of whom - was Dafydd ap Gwilym.
0:06:45 > 0:06:49- This is the old hall.
0:06:49 > 0:06:55- Before it became the servants' hall, - it was the family's main hall.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59- I'm sure Sion ap Morgan...
0:07:00 > 0:07:03- ..who lived here - during the 15th century...
0:07:03 > 0:07:05- ..would have stood here...
0:07:05 > 0:07:10- ..and been entertained - by his poets, harpist and so on...
0:07:10 > 0:07:12- ..while feasting - with his servants...
0:07:13 > 0:07:16- ..because back then, - they shared the same space.
0:07:18 > 0:07:22- The poets' patronage - continued for centuries.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- The room has been preserved.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29- It's how it may have looked - in the 19th century...
0:07:29 > 0:07:32- ..when Sir Charles Morgan - lived here.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38- Charles was an Englishman - and a distant relative...
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- ..when his father inherited - the Morgans' substantial estates.
0:07:43 > 0:07:45- But there was one condition.
0:07:46 > 0:07:49- He had to adopt the Morgan name - and the ancient coat of arms.
0:07:50 > 0:07:52- Charles followed his forefathers...
0:07:53 > 0:07:55- ..by becoming - a renowned Welsh patron.
0:07:55 > 0:08:00- He supported the local eisteddfodau.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02- He, along with Lady Llanover...
0:08:03 > 0:08:05- ..were responsible...
0:08:06 > 0:08:09- ..for helping establish - cultural events in Abergavenny.
0:08:10 > 0:08:12- As a result of that...
0:08:12 > 0:08:15- ..he became known as Ifor Hael II...
0:08:15 > 0:08:20- ..defender of - the Welsh language here in Gwent.
0:08:23 > 0:08:28- Sir Charles wasn't the last of the - Morgans to support the Welsh cause.
0:08:29 > 0:08:33- Here we get a glimpse - of the history of Godfrey Morgan.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- He was captain - of the 17th Lancers...
0:08:39 > 0:08:42- ..during - the Charge of the Light Brigade.
0:08:42 > 0:08:44- He survived the battle.
0:08:44 > 0:08:49- He was a proud Welshman...
0:08:49 > 0:08:52- ..and conversant - with Welsh history.
0:08:52 > 0:08:57- When the National Welsh Pageant - was held at Cardiff Castle...
0:08:57 > 0:09:03- ..Godfrey decided to dress - like his hero, Owain Glyndwr.
0:09:03 > 0:09:08- There's a wonderful painting of him - in his suit of armour...
0:09:08 > 0:09:10- ..resembling Owain Glyndwr.
0:09:12 > 0:09:14- He was the honorary president...
0:09:14 > 0:09:17- ..on the first day - of the National Eisteddfod...
0:09:18 > 0:09:22- ..when it came to Newport in 1897.
0:09:22 > 0:09:25- It was held on his land.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28- The Gorsedd stones - stand in Belle View Park.
0:09:28 > 0:09:33- The eisteddfod itself was held - at the cattle market in Pillgwenlly.
0:09:34 > 0:09:38- Godfrey Morgan - commissioned a horn of plenty...
0:09:38 > 0:09:41- ..for the 1897 Newport Eisteddfod.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46- It was commissioned - by Lord Tredegar, Godfrey Morgan.
0:09:47 > 0:09:51- Lovely, isn't it? I think - it belonged to a South African ox!
0:09:51 > 0:09:54- The tour of the mansion - was wonderful.
0:09:54 > 0:09:58- It was nice to hear about - the mansion's role in Welsh affairs.
0:09:58 > 0:10:02- This was - Lord Tredegar's coat of arms...
0:10:02 > 0:10:07- ..and the motto, "si deus nobiscum - quis contra nos..."
0:10:07 > 0:10:12- ..which means, "God be for us, - who can be against us?"
0:10:12 > 0:10:16- I was pleased to hear there was - so much Welsh in the house...
0:10:16 > 0:10:21- ..and that one of the Charleses - had been very prominent...
0:10:21 > 0:10:24- ..in promoting the - Welsh language through eisteddfodau.
0:10:25 > 0:10:27- Castle turrets...
0:10:27 > 0:10:30- ..with the poet on top.
0:10:30 > 0:10:35- I wasn't aware that the mansion - was so supportive of the language...
0:10:36 > 0:10:40- ..and local Welsh culture as it is - located in South East Wales.
0:10:45 > 0:10:48- The eisteddfod - isn't the only Welsh institution...
0:10:49 > 0:10:53- ..to gain from the era of mansions - and their cultural activities.
0:10:53 > 0:10:57- Some of the nation's - most important artefacts...
0:10:57 > 0:11:00- ..are housed at the National Library - of Wales in Aberystwyth.
0:11:01 > 0:11:05- Vaults have been built to protect - the most precious items...
0:11:05 > 0:11:08- ..from all kinds of dangers.
0:11:08 > 0:11:13- If there's a fire, the vaults emit - a gas to extinguish the flames...
0:11:13 > 0:11:15- ..and doors close on all sides.
0:11:18 > 0:11:23- You have to remember that Wales - was once an impoverished country...
0:11:23 > 0:11:26- ..in terms of its material wealth.
0:11:26 > 0:11:31- Nowadays, people visit the Tower - of London to view the crown jewels.
0:11:31 > 0:11:36- This is what we would consider - the treasures of the Welsh nation.
0:11:36 > 0:11:38- This is our crown jewels.
0:11:38 > 0:11:43- In the past, the mansions - were Wales's treasuries...
0:11:43 > 0:11:46- ..in terms of cultural inheritance.
0:11:46 > 0:11:49- It's where the books - and manuscripts...
0:11:49 > 0:11:52- ..acquired by - The National Library are kept.
0:11:59 > 0:12:02- Notice that the manuscripts - are diminutive in size.
0:12:03 > 0:12:07- Our most priceless treasure - is the Black Book of Carmarthen.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14- It's the earliest manuscript - of Welsh poetry...
0:12:14 > 0:12:19- ..dating from the mid-13th century - and written by an anonymous monk.
0:12:20 > 0:12:25- Originally, they collected poems - out of personal interest.
0:12:25 > 0:12:29- They were cultured people - who appreciated the content.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33- I also think - it boosted social status...
0:12:33 > 0:12:35- ..if you owned such treasures.
0:12:35 > 0:12:38- After all, - you possessed something...
0:12:38 > 0:12:41- ..that the man - in the next mansion didn't have.
0:12:42 > 0:12:46- Today's aristocrats would drive - an expensive car such as a Ferrari.
0:12:46 > 0:12:50- In the past, - acquiring precious manuscripts...
0:12:50 > 0:12:53- ..would give an aristocrat - special status.
0:12:55 > 0:12:58- There wouldn't be - a national library...
0:12:58 > 0:13:00- ..like we have today...
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- ..had it not been - for the mansions' libraries...
0:13:04 > 0:13:08- ..protecting these treasures - over the centuries.
0:13:08 > 0:13:13- It wasn't until Wales - established the National Library...
0:13:13 > 0:13:16- ..that these treasures - could be preserved.
0:13:17 > 0:13:21- But some treasures - still remain in Wales's mansions...
0:13:21 > 0:13:24- ..and we may not be aware - of their existence.
0:13:27 > 0:13:28- .
0:13:31 > 0:13:31- Subtitles
0:13:31 > 0:13:33- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- Stradey Castle - is one of the few mansions...
0:13:41 > 0:13:46- ..along with its 1,800-acre estate, - that belongs to the original family.
0:13:48 > 0:13:51- Mansel Lewis's family - has made a living...
0:13:51 > 0:13:55- ..from the land - and various ventures for 200 years.
0:13:55 > 0:13:59- But the business could just as - easily slip through their fingers.
0:13:59 > 0:14:05- You can't see the entire estate from - here but you can see most of it.
0:14:05 > 0:14:12- We get a good view - of the field over here.
0:14:12 > 0:14:14- Mr Hywel Morgan...
0:14:14 > 0:14:17- ..has brought - his cattle to graze here.
0:14:17 > 0:14:24- Behind us is more forestry, - but you can't see the entire estate.
0:14:30 > 0:14:33- These mansions - have survived for centuries...
0:14:33 > 0:14:39- ..due to the fact that the nobility - managed to retain the lands.
0:14:39 > 0:14:43- Land was considered - a significant part of their power.
0:14:44 > 0:14:49- By owning the land, - the gentry could govern...
0:14:49 > 0:14:51- ..the surrounding area.
0:14:52 > 0:14:54- Land equalled power.
0:14:54 > 0:14:57- My father died four years ago.
0:14:57 > 0:14:59- I realized straight away...
0:15:02 > 0:15:07- ..that the roof - needed urgent attention.
0:15:08 > 0:15:13- At the same time, - the insurance company told me...
0:15:13 > 0:15:17- ..that the entire mansion - would have to be rewired.
0:15:19 > 0:15:23- At the moment, there are two - projects running concurrently.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26- The rewiring and the rebuilding.
0:15:32 > 0:15:34- This is the library.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37- It's my favourite room.
0:15:37 > 0:15:42- I wrote my Dafydd ap Gwilym essay - in this room...
0:15:43 > 0:15:45- ..because I could - use the books for reference.
0:15:50 > 0:15:55- You can see there's around three - generations' worth of clutter there!
0:15:56 > 0:16:00- What we have to do...
0:16:00 > 0:16:03- ..is get rid - of old papers and so on.
0:16:03 > 0:16:07- They will either go in the bin - or to the National Library.
0:16:11 > 0:16:13- There's so much work to do.
0:16:13 > 0:16:15- After three years...
0:16:15 > 0:16:19- ..we've only managed - to sort out a quarter of this room.
0:16:20 > 0:16:21- Morning, Alan.
0:16:21 > 0:16:23- Morning, Alan.- - Morning, Patrick. Alright?
0:16:23 > 0:16:26- I am, thank you. - Making an impression here.
0:16:26 > 0:16:32- It's looking lovely. It'll be - a lovely job when it's finished.
0:16:32 > 0:16:36- Patrick is paying to restore - the old farm buildings....
0:16:36 > 0:16:40- ..in the hope of boosting - the estate's rental revenue.
0:16:40 > 0:16:43- I want to fill all the buildings...
0:16:43 > 0:16:49- ..so it becomes - a modern community on the estate.
0:16:49 > 0:16:54- A new way of life - in this part of the estate.
0:17:00 > 0:17:04- When my father - was raised in the castle...
0:17:04 > 0:17:07- ..he spent every morning...
0:17:10 > 0:17:12- ..eating his breakfast - at this table.
0:17:15 > 0:17:20- For every other meal, - they would eat at this table.
0:17:21 > 0:17:24- We came here - to visit my grandparents...
0:17:24 > 0:17:27- ..and they'd spend - most of their time...
0:17:27 > 0:17:32- ..in this room, socializing - and dining with friends.
0:17:34 > 0:17:37- If you look behind you...
0:17:37 > 0:17:39- ..you'll see a painting...
0:17:40 > 0:17:43- ..of the lake, - and behind that is the castle.
0:17:43 > 0:17:48- It was painted - by my grandfather's father...
0:17:48 > 0:17:50- ..Charles William Mansel Lewis.
0:17:51 > 0:17:54- The painting is called - The Enchanted Castle.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58- Despite his prowess as an artist...
0:17:58 > 0:18:01- ..Charles was a poor businessman.
0:18:01 > 0:18:06- However it was a local business - employing local people.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09- We might have - conjured up this notion...
0:18:09 > 0:18:13- ..that mansions extracted money - from the local economies...
0:18:14 > 0:18:19- ..and that the nobility - who lived in the mansions...
0:18:19 > 0:18:23- ..crossed the border - and spent the money in London.
0:18:24 > 0:18:29- There are currently ten families - of tenant farmers on the estate.
0:18:29 > 0:18:35- Around ten families are running - the farms on the Stradey estate.
0:18:35 > 0:18:39- There are six members of staff.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43- They work in the office, - the house, on maintenance...
0:18:44 > 0:18:46- ..in the forest and the garden.
0:18:46 > 0:18:52- The estate was some sort of focus - for the local economy.
0:18:52 > 0:18:57- It provided an income - for the servants and maids...
0:18:57 > 0:19:00- ..who worked at the mansion.
0:19:01 > 0:19:05- But the land also provided - a livelihood for the tenants.
0:19:07 > 0:19:13- It was often the case - that every family in the area...
0:19:13 > 0:19:17- ..in one way or another, was - associated with the local mansion.
0:19:25 > 0:19:27- I work Monday to Friday...
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- ..from a quarter past nine...
0:19:31 > 0:19:33- ..to half past two.
0:19:33 > 0:19:36- The time flies - because there's so much to do.
0:19:37 > 0:19:40- There's plenty of cleaning to do.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42- It has to be cleaned every day.
0:19:43 > 0:19:46- I have my own routine.
0:19:47 > 0:19:49- Two days to clean upstairs...
0:19:49 > 0:19:52- ..and three days - to clean downstairs.
0:19:52 > 0:19:54- I just go around in a circle.
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- There's plenty to do.
0:19:57 > 0:20:02- I'm a secretary. I usually work - in the office, but I'm here today.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05- I deal with any phone calls - and write letters.
0:20:06 > 0:20:08- I do - what any other secretary would do.
0:20:09 > 0:20:12- The work is never predictable - which is what I like.
0:20:13 > 0:20:16- During the Victorian era...
0:20:16 > 0:20:21- ..living in this house - was both difficult and simple.
0:20:22 > 0:20:26- It was difficult for those - who worked at the mansion...
0:20:26 > 0:20:31- ..but very simple - for the people who lived here.
0:20:31 > 0:20:34- They could relax and enjoy life.
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- If I lived here, I wouldn't clean.
0:20:38 > 0:20:42- I'd be sitting in the front room, - sipping a cup of tea...
0:20:42 > 0:20:44- ..and chatting with friends.
0:20:44 > 0:20:46- I'd leave the cleaning to a maid.
0:20:46 > 0:20:49- You'd ring the bell - and demand a coffee!
0:20:52 > 0:20:56- Part of the family's plans - to increase revenue...
0:20:56 > 0:20:58- ..is to hold weddings...
0:20:58 > 0:21:02- ..and rent out the large rooms - for photo shoots.
0:21:02 > 0:21:06- To achieve this, - they've created an upstairs flat...
0:21:06 > 0:21:08- ..in which the family lives.
0:21:09 > 0:21:13- This is where we live as a family.
0:21:13 > 0:21:17- We spend most of our time - in this room.
0:21:19 > 0:21:22- This room was originally a studio...
0:21:22 > 0:21:26- ..for the artist, - Charles William Mansel Lewis.
0:21:26 > 0:21:30- That's the reason - for the skylight overhead.
0:21:30 > 0:21:35- It's in direct contrast - to the rooms downstairs...
0:21:35 > 0:21:39- ..where the decor is Victorian - and everything is very grand.
0:21:39 > 0:21:42- This is where we like to relax.
0:21:42 > 0:21:44- It's our happy place.
0:21:45 > 0:21:47- As the family's second son...
0:21:47 > 0:21:52- ..Rob will have to leave the estate - and make his own way in life.
0:21:52 > 0:21:56- His big brother, Ed, - will stay here to run the place.
0:21:56 > 0:21:59- The wood's all from the estate.
0:21:59 > 0:22:02- We chop it - because a lot of the house...
0:22:02 > 0:22:07- ..isn't attached - to a central heating system...
0:22:07 > 0:22:12- ..which means - we have to rely on solid fuel...
0:22:12 > 0:22:17- ..which is nice because we get to do - this, spend time with my brothers.
0:22:18 > 0:22:20- But then it also takes time.
0:22:21 > 0:22:24- If you - wound the clock back 150 years...
0:22:24 > 0:22:27- ..you'd have - a whole array of staff...
0:22:27 > 0:22:32- ..and there would certainly be - someone whose job it was to do this.
0:22:32 > 0:22:36- You'd have somebody else - to make the beds, light the fires...
0:22:37 > 0:22:39- ..and cook the meals.
0:22:39 > 0:22:41- If you live in a house - as a family...
0:22:41 > 0:22:44- ..you have to do - a little bit of all those jobs.
0:22:51 > 0:22:53- It's very stressful.
0:22:53 > 0:22:58- How we're going to raise money - is a constant cause for concern...
0:22:58 > 0:23:00- ..especially when it's cold.
0:23:01 > 0:23:05- It's difficult living in this house.
0:23:06 > 0:23:11- Sometimes I feel the burden of - the responsibility on my shoulders.
0:23:15 > 0:23:21- But most of the time, I'm happy - to run the Stradey Estate.
0:23:26 > 0:23:31- I think it's very important - to keep this castle...
0:23:31 > 0:23:34- ..in our family...
0:23:34 > 0:23:37- ..because we're part of its history.
0:23:37 > 0:23:42- It's important to me - that it's kept in the family.
0:23:47 > 0:23:48- .
0:23:53 > 0:23:53- Subtitles
0:23:53 > 0:23:55- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:24:00 > 0:24:02- The town council - would like to welcome you...
0:24:03 > 0:24:08- ..to this fete, and I wish - to open the fete officially now.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11- A pound, yes. Thank you very much.
0:24:11 > 0:24:14- Welcome to you all.
0:24:15 > 0:24:18- Welcome to Abergele. - We hope you have a nice day.
0:24:18 > 0:24:22- On behalf of Cytun, the - Council of Churches in Abergele...
0:24:22 > 0:24:24- ..we welcome you all.
0:24:28 > 0:24:31- Gwrych Castle - is familiar to those...
0:24:31 > 0:24:36- ..travelling along - the North Wales coastline.
0:24:36 > 0:24:40- Today the community has gathered - within its walls to fund raise.
0:24:41 > 0:24:45- Although the castle has since - become a ruin, its rich history...
0:24:45 > 0:24:48- ..once placed it - at the heart of village life.
0:24:48 > 0:24:53- I remember having the YFC rally - and YFC dance here.
0:24:54 > 0:24:56- The rally was held - at the local market...
0:24:57 > 0:24:59- ..and the dance - was held in the castle.
0:25:00 > 0:25:02- That was back in 1975-76.
0:25:02 > 0:25:04- It was a great night.
0:25:04 > 0:25:07- Everyone came to the dances - at the castle. It was very busy.
0:25:08 > 0:25:11- The atmosphere was fantastic.
0:25:11 > 0:25:13- Everyone loved coming here.
0:25:14 > 0:25:18- The castle was thriving at the time.
0:25:18 > 0:25:22- Events, such as jousting, - were held here on a regular basis.
0:25:22 > 0:25:25- The place was well maintained.
0:25:25 > 0:25:30- They say there was once a white - marble staircase leading to nowhere.
0:25:30 > 0:25:34- I came here - for a Merched Y Wawr dinner.
0:25:34 > 0:25:39- The only feature I remember - is the beautiful staircase.
0:25:40 > 0:25:43- My parents used to go - to dances at the castle.
0:25:44 > 0:25:46- That's where they met.
0:25:46 > 0:25:51- I suppose you could say the reason - I'm here is because of the castle!
0:25:52 > 0:25:57- The castle has certainly brought the - community together over the years.
0:25:59 > 0:26:04- But before the castle deteriorated, - it belonged to a family...
0:26:04 > 0:26:08- ..who felt it was their duty - to do good work in the community.
0:26:08 > 0:26:12- I'm Mark, - I'm from the Gwrych Castle Trust.
0:26:12 > 0:26:16- There's been a house - on this site for many years.
0:26:16 > 0:26:21- The earliest record is from the - Tudor period in the 16th century...
0:26:21 > 0:26:24- ..during the reign of Elizabeth I.
0:26:24 > 0:26:27- It was the home of the Lloyd family.
0:26:27 > 0:26:30- The Lloyds traced their history...
0:26:30 > 0:26:32- ..back to the medieval period.
0:26:34 > 0:26:38- The old estate was inherited - by Lloyd Hesketh Bamford-Hesketh.
0:26:38 > 0:26:41- The new mansion, - built in the 19th century...
0:26:41 > 0:26:44- ..paid homage - to his mother's Welsh roots.
0:26:44 > 0:26:49- The Hesketh family's intention - was to build something...
0:26:49 > 0:26:51- ..of which Wales would be proud.
0:26:52 > 0:26:56- Before starting the building work, - they looked around the locality.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59- Conwy Castle - was the nearest castle...
0:26:59 > 0:27:03- ..and I think - that inspired the turrets.
0:27:03 > 0:27:07- From that, the building - developed into what it is today.
0:27:12 > 0:27:17- The turrets were created to echo - the castles of North Wales...
0:27:17 > 0:27:21- ..such as Conwy, Dolbadarn, - Dolwyddelan and Rhuddlan...
0:27:21 > 0:27:26- ..as a bold statement of - the Lloyd family's Welsh heritage.
0:27:26 > 0:27:29- The walls were meant - to give the impression...
0:27:29 > 0:27:34- ..that the castle was a much - longer construction from afar.
0:27:35 > 0:27:39- It spans a kilometre in length, - and when you visit...
0:27:39 > 0:27:43- ..you realize that the castle itself - isn't the only focus.
0:27:44 > 0:27:49- Much of the fun and excitement comes - from wandering around the walls...
0:27:49 > 0:27:51- ..and seeing the turrets.
0:27:57 > 0:28:01- There was once a marble staircase, - but that's gone now.
0:28:01 > 0:28:07- All that's left of it nowadays - are its stone walls, which is sad.
0:28:07 > 0:28:12- The marble stairs - were very majestic.
0:28:12 > 0:28:17- They gave the impression - that the castle was important.
0:28:17 > 0:28:19- The Hesketh family's aim...
0:28:19 > 0:28:25- ..was to build an imposing structure - in the forest above Abergele.
0:28:27 > 0:28:32- Winifred, Countess of Dundonald, - loved living at Gwrych Castle.
0:28:32 > 0:28:37- She regarded herself the last - of the Welsh Lloyd family at Gwrych.
0:28:38 > 0:28:40- As the heiress - of an enormous estate...
0:28:41 > 0:28:44- ..she strongly believed - she had a duty to be charitable.
0:28:45 > 0:28:48- The family contributed - towards many buildings...
0:28:49 > 0:28:51- ..that characterize the area.
0:28:53 > 0:28:56- Her philanthropy - started at a young age.
0:28:56 > 0:29:00- She was ten years of age when she - laid the first stone at Llanddulas.
0:29:01 > 0:29:05- It sparked a lifetime - of donating land and money...
0:29:06 > 0:29:10- ..to maintain village halls, reading - rooms, churches, vicarages...
0:29:10 > 0:29:15- ..schools and a new extension - of Rhyl's Royal Alexandra Hospital.
0:29:15 > 0:29:20- The devotion Winifred showed - her community wasn't unusual.
0:29:20 > 0:29:25- The estates of Wales - were on a smaller scale generally...
0:29:25 > 0:29:30- ..so landowners tended - to remain on their estates.
0:29:30 > 0:29:36- A closer relationship evolved - between Wales's landowners...
0:29:36 > 0:29:38- ..and their servants.
0:29:42 > 0:29:46- Erddig is an example - of this special relationship...
0:29:46 > 0:29:48- ..that was able to develop...
0:29:49 > 0:29:51- ..between masters and servants.
0:29:51 > 0:29:55- It was an age-old ritual - in the mansions to hang portraits...
0:29:56 > 0:30:00- ..of a nobleman's forefathers - to remember those who had died...
0:30:00 > 0:30:05- ..and to chronicle the family's - long history for visitors.
0:30:08 > 0:30:12- Today at Erddig, - visitors can see paintings...
0:30:12 > 0:30:17- ..depicting the love and respect - the gentry had for their workers.
0:30:25 > 0:30:28- Near Bangor stands Penrhyn Castle.
0:30:28 > 0:30:32- A symbol of one family's - oppression over its quarrymen...
0:30:32 > 0:30:36- ..who went on strike - for better standards of living.
0:30:36 > 0:30:40- But even here, the noble family...
0:30:40 > 0:30:44- ..took its responsibility towards - the poor and needy seriously.
0:30:44 > 0:30:47- I've been fortunate - over the past year...
0:30:48 > 0:30:53- ..to peruse the personal documents - of Penrhyn Castle's Pennant family.
0:30:53 > 0:30:58- It gives us an ideal opportunity - to get to know the characters...
0:30:58 > 0:31:00- ..who used to live here.
0:31:00 > 0:31:02- They were very controversial.
0:31:03 > 0:31:06- Finally we're - getting a glimpse of their outlook.
0:31:06 > 0:31:10- The discovery - which surprised me the most...
0:31:10 > 0:31:14- ..was the deluge of letters - they received begging for money.
0:31:14 > 0:31:18- Hundreds and thousands - of begging letters.
0:31:18 > 0:31:20- Some of them were heartbreaking.
0:31:21 > 0:31:24- It surprised me - that the people asking for money...
0:31:24 > 0:31:28- ..didn't necessarily live - on the Penrhyn estate.
0:31:28 > 0:31:30- They came from all over Britain.
0:31:31 > 0:31:34- The owners of these estates - governed the communities.
0:31:35 > 0:31:37- There was no welfare or NHS.
0:31:38 > 0:31:40- The community wasn't looked after.
0:31:40 > 0:31:43- These estates - were responsible for them.
0:31:44 > 0:31:47- The poor turned to the estates - for assistance.
0:31:48 > 0:31:50- They were crucial to the community.
0:31:54 > 0:31:57- Catrin's research - has uncovered a woman...
0:31:57 > 0:32:00- ..who not only fulfilled - a charitable role...
0:32:01 > 0:32:03- ..but also ran - the Penrhyn estate...
0:32:04 > 0:32:09- ..in an era when married women - had no right to their own property.
0:32:09 > 0:32:13- I'd always thought of Anne Susannah - as an eccentric character.
0:32:14 > 0:32:16- She was childless.
0:32:16 > 0:32:20- Her union with Richard Pennant - was a marriage of convenience...
0:32:20 > 0:32:24- ..since she was - such an influential heiress.
0:32:24 > 0:32:26- She treated her dogs as children...
0:32:27 > 0:32:30- ..and even left her dogs - 45 a year in her will...
0:32:30 > 0:32:33- ..which is a sign - of an eccentric lady.
0:32:33 > 0:32:35- When her husband died...
0:32:35 > 0:32:40- ..the estate was left - with a crippling debt of 153,000.
0:32:40 > 0:32:42- During her final years...
0:32:42 > 0:32:47- ..Anne Susannah doubled - the profit from the quarry...
0:32:47 > 0:32:49- ..and repaid the debt in full.
0:32:49 > 0:32:52- The Crown - coveted this profitable business.
0:32:53 > 0:32:55- Under her leadership...
0:32:55 > 0:33:00- ..a significant court case in her - family's history had been averted.
0:33:00 > 0:33:04- If Anne Susannah Warburton hadn't - paid off her husband's debt...
0:33:05 > 0:33:08- ..if she hadn't run the estate - as efficiently as she had done...
0:33:09 > 0:33:11- ..and if she hadn't - fought the Crown...
0:33:12 > 0:33:16- ..it's possible that George, who - inherited the estate after her...
0:33:17 > 0:33:20- ..wouldn't have had the money - and the resources...
0:33:20 > 0:33:24- ..to build this opulent castle - which stands here today.
0:33:34 > 0:33:35- .
0:33:38 > 0:33:38- Subtitles
0:33:38 > 0:33:40- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:33:44 > 0:33:50- The 20th century was a bleak era - in the history of Wales's mansions.
0:33:50 > 0:33:54- Wales lost hundreds - of beautiful mansions in that time.
0:33:59 > 0:34:03- The wealthiest gentry - still enjoyed a charmed life...
0:34:04 > 0:34:07- ..like this family at Plas Newydd.
0:34:08 > 0:34:12- At the beginning - of the 20th century...
0:34:12 > 0:34:16- ..the gentry still thought - they were living in a golden age...
0:34:17 > 0:34:22- ..unaware of the fact - that the end was nigh.
0:34:27 > 0:34:29- The large estates had struggled...
0:34:29 > 0:34:33- ..during the final decades - of the previous century.
0:34:33 > 0:34:36- There was - an agricultural recession...
0:34:37 > 0:34:40- ..forcing 300,000 workers - to leave the land...
0:34:40 > 0:34:43- ..between 1850 - and the outbreak of WWI.
0:34:44 > 0:34:48- It had an adverse effect - on the gentry...
0:34:49 > 0:34:53- ..and on the mansions - in 20th-century Wales.
0:34:53 > 0:34:57- But the seeds had been sown - many years beforehand.
0:34:57 > 0:35:01- With a rise in the number - of people allowed to vote...
0:35:01 > 0:35:04- ..the government - introduced a new tax...
0:35:05 > 0:35:08- ..with the aim - of creating a fairer society.
0:35:10 > 0:35:13- By law...
0:35:13 > 0:35:17- ..the gentry had to pay a tax - based on their land's value.
0:35:17 > 0:35:21- The family had to pay this tax - on the death of the landowner.
0:35:21 > 0:35:24- If there was no cash available...
0:35:24 > 0:35:28- ..the alternative was - to sell portions of the estate.
0:35:28 > 0:35:31- This, in turn, - decreased the rental revenue.
0:35:31 > 0:35:33- Every new generation...
0:35:34 > 0:35:36- ..became poorer as a result.
0:35:39 > 0:35:43- With many of the gentry killed - in the trenches of the Great War...
0:35:43 > 0:35:48- ..some families had to pay the tax - twice in a short space of time.
0:35:53 > 0:35:55- As we wander through Wales...
0:35:55 > 0:35:59- ..we notice how many mansions - have disappeared.
0:35:59 > 0:36:03- Ruins across the country - reflect that deterioration.
0:36:05 > 0:36:10- But what have we lost - by losing the mansion in Wales?
0:36:16 > 0:36:20- The sad tale of Ruperra mansion - was becoming all too common.
0:36:21 > 0:36:23- This handsome mansion...
0:36:23 > 0:36:28- ..was home to the Morgan family heir - until he inherited Tredegar House.
0:36:28 > 0:36:33- Following substantial spending - over many generations...
0:36:33 > 0:36:36- ..Ruperra went up for sale - in the 1930s, but it went unsold.
0:36:37 > 0:36:41- Its entire contents - were sold at auction...
0:36:41 > 0:36:43- ..which lasted three days.
0:36:44 > 0:36:46- The house was laid bare.
0:36:49 > 0:36:52- During WWII, the army stayed here.
0:36:52 > 0:36:56- On the night of Pearl Harbour, - a fire started...
0:36:56 > 0:37:00- ..from old electrical wires and - the mansion burned to the ground.
0:37:01 > 0:37:04- One of the turrets fell - during the 1980s...
0:37:04 > 0:37:08- ..and despite the efforts - of numerous owners...
0:37:09 > 0:37:12- ..plans to save the mansion - have been in vain.
0:37:16 > 0:37:18- A few mansions have survived...
0:37:19 > 0:37:21- ..and are now open to the public.
0:37:24 > 0:37:27- Llanerchaeron - is a perfect example...
0:37:27 > 0:37:29- ..of a noble mansion...
0:37:30 > 0:37:32- ..befitting of a gentleman.
0:37:33 > 0:37:37- Little has changed - since the 18th century.
0:37:41 > 0:37:45- Llanerchaeron is beautiful mansion - in an idyllic setting.
0:37:45 > 0:37:47- I've been a volunteer here - since 2002.
0:37:50 > 0:37:53- Today these clothes - have arrived from Llangadog.
0:37:54 > 0:37:55- Mrs Evans from Llangadog...
0:37:56 > 0:38:00- ..has donated clothes which belonged - to an elderly gentleman.
0:38:02 > 0:38:04- I first came here during the 1960s.
0:38:06 > 0:38:09- There were ruins here back then.
0:38:16 > 0:38:20- Ten generations of the same family - have lived here.
0:38:20 > 0:38:23- Parry was the first, - and he came from Llanlas...
0:38:23 > 0:38:26- ..back in 1634.
0:38:26 > 0:38:29- Ten generations have followed.
0:38:29 > 0:38:32- His daughter - married the first Lewis...
0:38:32 > 0:38:34- ..and the Lewis family - has been ever since.
0:38:35 > 0:38:37- During the last decade - of the 18th century...
0:38:38 > 0:38:40- ..the Lewis family was thriving.
0:38:40 > 0:38:45- They commissioned a gifted architect - to build them a new house.
0:38:45 > 0:38:49- He later became the royal family's - architect of choice.
0:38:50 > 0:38:53- John Nash was born in London - but his parents were Welsh.
0:38:55 > 0:38:58- He had - financial and marital problems.
0:38:58 > 0:39:02- He escaped to the Wild West - - commonly known as Wales!
0:39:02 > 0:39:05- He worked in the area for 11 years.
0:39:05 > 0:39:11- He was given an opportunity - to practise his own designs.
0:39:11 > 0:39:15- When he returned to London - in 1797...
0:39:15 > 0:39:19- ..he quickly became - the favourite architect...
0:39:20 > 0:39:22- ..of the Prince Regent.
0:39:22 > 0:39:25- He built Brighton Pavilion...
0:39:25 > 0:39:28- ..and parts of Buckingham Palace.
0:39:28 > 0:39:33- He was the favourite among - the London clique at the time.
0:39:40 > 0:39:44- Many mansions were refurbished - during the Victorian era.
0:39:44 > 0:39:47- Mary Ashby Lewis, - who was a widow, lived here.
0:39:48 > 0:39:51- She didn't have the right - to make any alterations...
0:39:51 > 0:39:53- ..so it remained Georgian.
0:39:53 > 0:39:57- That's the most significant point - about Llanerchaeron.
0:40:05 > 0:40:08- The mansion was a private - residence until the 1990s...
0:40:08 > 0:40:10- ..following Mr Lewis's death.
0:40:12 > 0:40:17- During that time, the housekeeper - and her young family lived here.
0:40:17 > 0:40:21- I came here in 1950 - when I was 15 years old.
0:40:21 > 0:40:25- I started work - the day Mr Lewis turned 50.
0:40:27 > 0:40:29- My first job that day...
0:40:30 > 0:40:34- ..was answer the front door - and tell a lie to a vicar.
0:40:34 > 0:40:39- He said, "I'm not home," - so I had to lie to the vicar.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42- I carried out all sorts of chores - around the house.
0:40:42 > 0:40:46- The washing, ironing, - cleaning and so on.
0:40:46 > 0:40:50- There were no such thing - as hoovers back then.
0:40:50 > 0:40:53- I washed the floor on my knees.
0:40:53 > 0:40:57- Thank goodness I enjoyed housework, - that's all I can say!
0:40:58 > 0:41:00- But I wouldn't do it now.
0:41:00 > 0:41:02- I was here for 42 years.
0:41:03 > 0:41:05- That's quite a long time.
0:41:05 > 0:41:07- But it was my home.
0:41:08 > 0:41:13- I was brought up here with - my brother John and it was great.
0:41:13 > 0:41:15- You and John.
0:41:15 > 0:41:17- You and John.- - We did all the things children do.
0:41:17 > 0:41:21- We played and built dens.
0:41:21 > 0:41:24- We played football. It was great.
0:41:24 > 0:41:28- It was a good place - to be born and raised.
0:41:30 > 0:41:32- I always called him Mr L.
0:41:32 > 0:41:35- I never called him sir. - He didn't like that.
0:41:36 > 0:41:40- He'd say, "Sir? Good God! - Who am I? I'm not a sir."
0:41:42 > 0:41:45- There had to be a strict routine.
0:41:45 > 0:41:47- He was a stickler for timekeeping.
0:41:47 > 0:41:52- Lunch at one o'clock and he wouldn't - drink until nine o'clock at night.
0:41:52 > 0:41:55- He'd take out his pocket watch...
0:41:55 > 0:41:58- ..and say, - "Oh, damn, it's only ten to nine."
0:41:59 > 0:42:01- He enjoyed a sherry or two.
0:42:01 > 0:42:03- Gin with lemon and barley.
0:42:03 > 0:42:05- Gin with lemon and barley.- - But a sherry first.
0:42:05 > 0:42:08- You had to make him dinner - at 11.00pm.
0:42:08 > 0:42:10- Yes, 11 o'clock was dinner time.
0:42:10 > 0:42:14- He wouldn't eat the same time as us. - He ate at 11.00pm.
0:42:14 > 0:42:20- A regular event throughout the year - at the mansions was the hunt.
0:42:21 > 0:42:22- It was a Lewis ritual.
0:42:22 > 0:42:26- The men and many of their wives...
0:42:26 > 0:42:29- ..hunted foxes and otters.
0:42:29 > 0:42:31- They fished in the River Aeron.
0:42:32 > 0:42:35- It was teeming with fish back them.
0:42:35 > 0:42:38- If there was a shortage here...
0:42:38 > 0:42:43- ..they'd go to another estate - belonging to someone they knew...
0:42:43 > 0:42:46- ..such as Llanllyr, - the Hafod or Nanteos...
0:42:46 > 0:42:49- ..and spent the day hunting there...
0:42:49 > 0:42:52- ..and hunted for hares at Nanteos.
0:42:56 > 0:42:58- You let the otters go.
0:42:58 > 0:43:01- Yes, I'd go to the riverbank...
0:43:01 > 0:43:05- ..and fan the smell away - to put the dogs off the scent.
0:43:05 > 0:43:07- I don't know how many got away.
0:43:07 > 0:43:11- I remember once at Borth bog - when I was 21.
0:43:11 > 0:43:15- It was the day after - my 21st birthday and a bank holiday.
0:43:15 > 0:43:19- "If you catch one today, - I'll have the head mounted."
0:43:19 > 0:43:23- Thank you very much, that's - the last thing I wanted in my house.
0:43:23 > 0:43:25- But I didn't say a word.
0:43:26 > 0:43:29- We spotted an otter - and he killed it.
0:43:30 > 0:43:33- The thing is in a box - in Pandy somewhere.
0:43:33 > 0:43:35- Goodness me! No, thank you!
0:43:35 > 0:43:39- There are several - mounted on the wall in the hall.
0:43:39 > 0:43:41- But that was his hobby.
0:43:41 > 0:43:43- When was that, Sheila?
0:43:43 > 0:43:46- The 1890s? 1900s?
0:43:47 > 0:43:49- The First World War.
0:43:49 > 0:43:51- Is that right?!
0:43:56 > 0:43:59- Mr Ponsonby Lewes died in 1989...
0:43:59 > 0:44:01- ..and he left the estate...
0:44:02 > 0:44:05- ..the house and its contents - to the National Trust.
0:44:05 > 0:44:08- A lot of work had to be carried out.
0:44:08 > 0:44:12- The roof had been leaking - for several years.
0:44:13 > 0:44:15- Nobody used this floor.
0:44:16 > 0:44:18- Mr Lewes was on the ground floor...
0:44:19 > 0:44:22- ..because the rain - had rotted the woodwork.
0:44:23 > 0:44:25- It took ten years...
0:44:25 > 0:44:27- ..to restore the house.
0:44:28 > 0:44:31- If the National Trust - hadn't taken on the house...
0:44:32 > 0:44:34- ..it would have become a ruin.
0:44:34 > 0:44:37- It was too dilapidated - for a person to buy...
0:44:38 > 0:44:43- ..as a nursing home, a hotel - or any business venture.
0:44:43 > 0:44:45- It required too much work.
0:44:53 > 0:44:55- It's changed completely.
0:44:55 > 0:44:58- This is where - the Christmas decorations hung.
0:44:58 > 0:45:02- It's completely different here.
0:45:02 > 0:45:03- It's the same old Esse.
0:45:03 > 0:45:05- It's the same old Esse.- - I know. Lovely!
0:45:05 > 0:45:09- It's old - but it was used to heat the water...
0:45:09 > 0:45:11- ..and used for cooking.
0:45:13 > 0:45:15- The table used to be here.
0:45:15 > 0:45:17- Yes, up there...
0:45:18 > 0:45:20- ..and the dresser used to be there.
0:45:20 > 0:45:22- You have a photograph...
0:45:23 > 0:45:27- ..of the tenants sitting around - the table at harvest.
0:45:27 > 0:45:29- Yes, they had lunch here...
0:45:29 > 0:45:31- ..and dinner at night.
0:45:32 > 0:45:33- After dinner here...
0:45:34 > 0:45:36- ..they'd all have a glass of whisky.
0:45:37 > 0:45:39- Say you had a glass that size...
0:45:39 > 0:45:42- ..there was only enough room - for that much water.
0:45:42 > 0:45:44- The rest was whisky.
0:45:45 > 0:45:47- I have a lot of fond memories.
0:45:48 > 0:45:50- It was really nice, wasn't it?
0:45:50 > 0:45:52- It's nice looking back.
0:45:52 > 0:45:57- It's a shame - that life has to change.
0:45:57 > 0:46:01- It's all become - too modern these days.
0:46:01 > 0:46:03- We had real fun back then.
0:46:03 > 0:46:07- They say they were tough times - but they were happy times.
0:46:14 > 0:46:19- The most obvious loss in Wales as - a result of the loss of mansions...
0:46:20 > 0:46:23- ..is the basic injustice - in society.
0:46:24 > 0:46:29- The premise that one family - ruled over the community.
0:46:29 > 0:46:33- That's certainly disappeared...
0:46:33 > 0:46:36- ..along with the Welsh mansion.
0:46:39 > 0:46:45- Perhaps this injustice is to blame - for the neglect of these mansions.
0:46:49 > 0:46:51- Since taking these photographs...
0:46:51 > 0:46:56- ..each of these historic treasures - has disappeared into oblivion.
0:47:01 > 0:47:04- Before the rest disappear...
0:47:04 > 0:47:09- ..there's still a chance to - understand their true significance.
0:47:29 > 0:47:32- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:47:32 > 0:47:33- .