:11:27. > :11:37.On a Belfast pub tour, all these divisions were clashing with his
:11:38. > :11:44.view. We on this island together, or whether we like it or not. He is
:11:45. > :11:48.going to meet Jenny, one of a new generation of young people, growing
:11:49. > :11:53.up so as the Good Friday Agreement. I was raised a Catholic, I was
:11:54. > :11:57.brought up through the Catholic schooling system, but I don't call
:11:58. > :12:04.my supper Catholic. People think that in Belfast we are more
:12:05. > :12:12.progress. I think it has gone past that. 21 % of people here have
:12:13. > :12:17.rejected the usual definition of Irish of British. Like Jenny Bailey
:12:18. > :12:24.chose a new distinction - Northern Irish. To you consider yourself
:12:25. > :12:29.Northern Irish? A I do. I have a British and Irish passport. The
:12:30. > :12:50.Irish passport is the best one to have, but I'll walk into any
:12:51. > :12:55.British Embassy. If there was a border poll tomorrow, I would say
:12:56. > :13:01.no. However, I am not completely closed off to the idea, but not in
:13:02. > :13:12.the foreseeable. It would affect you less than it would mean. For
:13:13. > :13:26.anyone under 40, this Irish Celtic rock will help Barry get in touch
:13:27. > :13:34.with he's Irish side. I don't buy into this place. I really love
:13:35. > :13:42.Dublin, I think it is fantastic. It has been my home from a long time
:13:43. > :13:46.and it took me a while to learn how the South works. There is a sense
:13:47. > :13:50.of dodging and weaving that you don't get in the north. In the
:13:51. > :14:00.north you square of to each other. Down here, there is a tendency to
:14:01. > :14:08.dark and dodge. -- dark and dodge. I spent my career trying to land
:14:09. > :14:13.blows! That is probably what distinguishes the two sets of
:14:14. > :14:21.people. I may as well be in a foreign country. There is a barrier
:14:22. > :14:27.in my head. It is. The identity is what you feel about the place. If I
:14:28. > :14:36.am looking for Irish nurse, I don't even know what that is. Well, up I
:14:37. > :14:47.would head for Galway. It is for of mad, red-headed people. It is a
:14:48. > :14:59.great city, even when it is raining. What about hector? He is as mad as
:15:00. > :15:03.a brush, but you were like him. I'm probably not going to be allowed
:15:04. > :15:08.back into a restaurant after all the treacherous things I have said.
:15:09. > :15:22.We are leaving Belfast and going down to Bangor. It became famous
:15:23. > :15:28.after every Anna was filming here. She was on a farm filming, but when
:15:29. > :15:34.the farmer saw the kind of video she was filming, he asked her to
:15:35. > :15:41.leave. Before he has even got into the field, Hector has a sense of
:15:42. > :15:51.what he is going to find. He is going to need Free Presbyterian and
:15:52. > :16:10.democratic Unionist Alan Graham he told the American singer to put her
:16:11. > :16:19.top back on. Come back to the hills of Ulster! Where about washy,
:16:20. > :16:26.exactly? Further over. In it was mainly in the field where you are.
:16:27. > :16:32.Cannot take a rock with me. We will sell them at home. They are ?25
:16:33. > :16:38.each. Thank you very much of getting the dress code right. The
:16:39. > :16:45.singer getting hurt rocks off did not impress farmer Graham. She was
:16:46. > :16:51.wearing a bikini and I did not object to that. Losses Storey said
:16:52. > :16:59.that I did. Some people said, have you never been to a beach. However,
:17:00. > :17:13.half of her clothing came off and it was inappropriate. Did she know
:17:14. > :17:58.where she was? Did she know that when an Ulsterman says it's over,
:17:59. > :20:09.it's finished? He is meeting a well-known journalist.
:20:10. > :20:14.Now compare that to people in the North. Yeah, you will protest at
:20:15. > :20:17.anything. A bit of cloth, the flag, a march going down the wrong street,
:20:18. > :20:20.and, look, for very understandable historical reasons, to be fair, but
:20:21. > :20:22.I think we probably look at... To be honest, they are probably
:20:23. > :20:26.slightly linked... Certainly, when I was growing up, we looked up
:20:27. > :20:29.North and we kind of went, "Wow, that's what protesting and violence
:20:30. > :20:31.can lead to." In Bangor, Alan Graham's protest brought him
:20:32. > :20:34.international notoriety, but Hector wants to find out if he and this
:20:35. > :20:37.very Northern farmer have any common ground. We know farms down
:20:38. > :20:40.in the South have the best farms in Europe. Is this British soil, is it
:20:41. > :20:43.Protestant soil, is it Catholic soil? Is it Methodist, is it
:20:44. > :20:46.Presbyterian, or is it Irish soil? The most discreet answer... The
:20:47. > :20:49.most discreet answer would be... It belongs to the Lord. He made it all,
:20:50. > :20:53.so therefore the earth is the Lord's in the fullness of the Lord,
:20:54. > :20:56.so that is a good... Sort of political answer, isn't it? How's
:20:57. > :21:00.the milk quota up here? Are you making a few quid? I don't grow
:21:01. > :21:03.milk, I just grow barley, but... Is there money in barley? Well, you
:21:04. > :21:07.see, a farmer in the North is likely the same as a farmer in
:21:08. > :21:10.South. When he sees light at the end of the tunnel, he calls for
:21:11. > :21:14.more tunnel, so she doesn't own up to anything. Anyway, it's great to
:21:15. > :21:17.talk to you and I'm glad to see that you haven't adapted fully to
:21:18. > :21:20.technology and that you are still accepting the Fiat 90. Now, you
:21:21. > :21:23.don't see many of these. No, no, you see... That's just a plain
:21:24. > :21:26.man's tractor. Can you not get a grant for tractors up here with all
:21:27. > :21:29.your Northern Ireland money? Did the Good Friday Agreement not give
:21:30. > :21:32.you grants for tractors? I voted against the Good Friday Agreement,
:21:33. > :21:35.so I couldn't go looking for their money! Back in Dublin, Abie wants
:21:36. > :21:38.to take Stephen on a sightseeing tour to visit the most famous
:21:39. > :21:42.reminder of the Celtic Tiger. I guess Anglo Irish was the bank that
:21:43. > :21:45.really did us in. It's always the Anglo bit that does us in, by the
:21:46. > :21:48.way, just to make that clear. So this is kind of... This was going
:21:49. > :21:52.to be their grand headquarters. This is the ground zero of the
:21:53. > :21:55.Celtic Tiger crash and there it is. That was going to be the Anglo?
:21:56. > :21:58.That was going to be the global headquarters of Anglo Irish Bank,
:21:59. > :22:01.massive prestige building on the quays, that's what's left of it, or
:22:02. > :22:05.that's as much as got made before the whole thing collapsed and they
:22:06. > :22:08.went, "Oh, we've no money to finish this. "Actually, we have no money
:22:09. > :22:11.to pay anyone. "Actually, we're not even a bank, we're just a massive
:22:12. > :22:14.hole. "Could you please bail us out, thank you very much?" Massive hole?
:22:15. > :22:17.Yeah, massive hole. Is the word. Yeah. This massive hole sucked the
:22:18. > :22:20.Southern Irish people into a 34 billion euro debt, but with a bit
:22:21. > :22:23.of ducking and diving, the government managed to wangle
:22:24. > :22:26.putting off the repayments for ten years. I mean, as a monument of
:22:27. > :22:29.sort of hubris and a metaphor, it's kind of priceless. It should be in
:22:30. > :22:32.a gallery somewhere. Hector's got interested in religion. In Belfast,
:22:33. > :22:35.he has noticed there are a lot of Protestant churches in a relatively
:22:36. > :22:38.small area and he's wondering why. So he's going to meet Duncan Morrow,
:22:39. > :22:42.a lecturer in the University of Ulster and an expert on all things
:22:43. > :22:45.ecumenical. Duncan, I need to go through this list because we are on
:22:46. > :22:48.the Lisburn Road. Let's go through the amount of churches on the
:22:49. > :22:50.Lisburn Road. First of all, St Nicholas's Parish, Belfast. How are
:22:51. > :22:53.they? That's Church of Ireland. They have bishops and they're not,
:22:54. > :22:57.all of them, counting themselves as Protestant. OK, we move on down the
:22:58. > :23:00.road and we go to the South Belfast Quaker Meeting House. Who goes in
:23:01. > :23:03.there? Well, that's a peace church and they don't have any clergy at
:23:04. > :23:06.all and their meetings are in silence unless they're inspired.
:23:07. > :23:09.Sounds like a place I'd like to go. St Thomas's Parish Church down on
:23:10. > :23:12.Eglantine Avenue. What are they? Well, that's another Anglican
:23:13. > :23:14.church, but it might be more Protestant or less Protestant, you
:23:15. > :23:18.can't be sure with the Anglicans, which way that'll go. If I wasn't
:23:19. > :23:21.happy there, I could go to the Fisherwick Presbyterian Church up
:23:22. > :23:23.the road. What do they do? The Presbyterians are the largest of
:23:24. > :23:26.the Protestant denominations in the North, they're Scottish, with roots
:23:27. > :23:29.in Ulster Scots and they like a good sermon. Then we can move on to
:23:30. > :23:33.the Malone Presbyterian Church just up the road. Well, that may have a
:23:34. > :23:35.slightly different colour. It may be more conservative, less
:23:36. > :23:38.conservative, you can't be sure. Them Malone boys, you can't trust
:23:39. > :23:40.them! There's more colours and tribalism in your churches than
:23:41. > :23:43.there is anywhere else. Absolutely and, historically, at times they
:23:44. > :23:45.were at each other's throats, both between dominations and at various
:23:46. > :23:48.times within denominations. In some towns, there's a First Presbyterian
:23:49. > :23:52.and a Second Presbyterian. That's a history that some didn't like it in
:23:53. > :23:55.the first, so they went off to the second. Windsor Baptist Church?
:23:56. > :23:57.Sounds like a good party. Yeah, the Baptist churches don't baptise
:23:58. > :24:00.children, they baptise adults. You have to go into a pool and you have
:24:01. > :24:03.full immersion and they have independent churches all over the
:24:04. > :24:06.place. The Church of St John the Evangelist. Well, that's another
:24:07. > :24:09.Anglican church again. Bells and smells, or is it just like an old
:24:10. > :24:11.Protestant church? You can't be sure. University Road Moravian
:24:12. > :24:14.Church Manse. Well, the Moravians came from Germany. They started the
:24:15. > :24:17.whole singing in the church and they're pious. Not many of them
:24:18. > :24:20.around here, but they were very important. Tell me about the
:24:21. > :24:22.Finaghies in the Methodist Church. Well, the Methodist church there,
:24:23. > :24:25.they preach, they have the social gospel, they believe in all the
:24:26. > :24:27.reaching out. That's another big international denomination. And
:24:28. > :24:31.finally, we are still on the Lisburn Road, if I want to go down
:24:32. > :24:34.to the Lowe Memorial Presbyterian Church, 191 - 193 Upper Lisburn
:24:35. > :24:36.Road, what would I find there? You'd find elders, you'd find
:24:37. > :24:39.Presbyterians reading the Bible, you'd find people preaching every
:24:40. > :24:42.week. What one do you go to? I go to one on the Ormeau Road, which is
:24:43. > :24:46.called Cook Presbyterian Church. That's my background, I'm steeped
:24:47. > :24:49.in it. That's one of the most interesting things I've learned on
:24:50. > :24:55.this journey. The amount of different levels and areas of
:24:56. > :24:58.Protestantism. You know, with Presbyterians and Methodists and
:24:59. > :25:00.Quakers and... This Church of Ireland, the Church of England...
:25:01. > :25:03.You have all these different little parts of Protestantism. And it's
:25:04. > :25:12.just completely bonkers and mad that they're all in such a small
:25:13. > :25:15.part of the country. Nolan has taken Barry Devlin's advice and
:25:16. > :25:18.headed west to Galway - Hector's home turf. Like a Northern Irish
:25:19. > :25:22.Goldilocks, he's sitting in Hector's very own chair. I'm down
:25:23. > :25:25.south for the whole week, I'm actually broadcasting from Galway
:25:26. > :25:33.this morning. What an experience this has been so far! Out and about
:25:34. > :25:35.in Galway, Stephen is still trying to connect with something that
:25:36. > :25:37.makes him feel authentically Irish. Trouble is, Nolan is hard to
:25:38. > :25:42.impress. 'Galway doesn't actually seem that
:25:43. > :25:46.different 'than any other major shopping street I've seen.' In fact,
:25:47. > :25:49.I'll tell you what I am noticing, there would be more shops lying
:25:50. > :25:55.vacant and empty in Belfast city centre than there would here. Most
:25:56. > :25:58.of them are tenanted. I noticed one down there which was to let, but
:25:59. > :26:03.everything else was at least occupied. You go into Belfast city
:26:04. > :26:10.centre, the likes of Royal Avenue these days, there's quite a few
:26:11. > :26:16.shops empty. ON RADIO: 'Breakfast with Hector, on 2FM.' This is
:26:17. > :26:19.Breakfast With Hector, live from the North of Ireland. Loads of
:26:20. > :26:22.people on Twitter last night saying, "Oh, enjoy the Ulster fry." I don't
:26:23. > :26:26.know why you keep going on about the Ulster fry, like it's something
:26:27. > :26:28.you can't get in any other part of the country. In 2011 the British
:26:29. > :26:31.Heart Foundation revealed that twice as many people died from
:26:32. > :26:34.coronary heart disease in Northern Ireland than in the South of
:26:35. > :26:41.England. And guess what? They actually blamed the Ulster fry!
:26:42. > :26:44.SIZZLING Lovely processed meat, sausage, bacon, fried egg, and all
:26:45. > :26:52.the saturated fats soaked up by three kinds of bread - soda, potato
:26:53. > :26:58.and a pancake. A heart attack on a plate never tasted so good. Heard a
:26:59. > :27:01.lot about this Ulster fry. Right. Tell me exactly what I need to have
:27:02. > :27:08.the quintessential Ulster fry? Frying pan! There you have it. In
:27:09. > :27:13.an Ulster fry, everything on the plate has to be cooked in a frying
:27:14. > :27:16.pan. Can I have beans on an Ulster? That's more of an English thing.
:27:17. > :27:20.Yes, we do them as an extra but they don't come on an Ulster fry.
:27:21. > :27:24.What, so it's just like a fry down the South? It's not. Your fries are
:27:25. > :27:28.good, but they're not as good as the Ulster fry! Were you reared on
:27:29. > :27:32.Ulster fries? We have a fry... Do I look like I was reared on Ulster
:27:33. > :27:35.fries? Away with you, to prepare the Ulster fry. Oh, have you ever
:27:36. > :27:39.heard anything about a bloody breakfast in all your born bloody
:27:40. > :27:42.days? There is something on that plate that sounds like health food,
:27:43. > :27:47.but this item definitely doesn't constitute one of your five-a-day.
:27:48. > :27:50.That's your vegetable roll. I've never heard of a vegetable roll
:27:51. > :27:54.before from a butcher. It's like a sausage meat with vegetables in it.
:27:55. > :27:57.It's black pudding or white pudding. It's not, believe it or not. But
:27:58. > :28:01.you're unbelievable for putting your own slant on things up there.
:28:02. > :28:05.Well, you taste it and tell me - what does it taste like? Black
:28:06. > :28:11.pudding or white pudding? That's sausage meat with a bit of herb.
:28:12. > :28:15.See. Do yous want one too? Do you want an Ulster fry? They always
:28:16. > :28:21.have Ulster fries. OK then, Ulster fries for everyone in the house!
:28:22. > :28:24.CUSTOMER: Wahey! Wahey! Stephen Nolan's paying! Because I'll
:28:25. > :28:33.guarantee you one thing, Stephen Nolan, I'd say you've had a fair
:28:34. > :28:37.few of these in your day. One thing Stephen isn't used to is a bit of a
:28:38. > :28:43.traditional Irish session, and it could be he's finally found what
:28:44. > :28:46.he's looking for. You know, I'm thinking culture down here, and I'm
:28:47. > :28:49.not thinking politics. I'm not thinking Irish in terms of United
:28:50. > :28:52.Ireland or the colour of a flag, I'm just really buying into this
:28:53. > :29:00.lovely music, lovely craic, lovely atmosphere, lovely people. Ooh. And
:29:01. > :29:14.I'm only experiencing it now, when I'm 39. What a shame, for me. ALL:
:29:15. > :29:19.Whoo! And there's more Irish hospitality coming from the kitchen.
:29:20. > :29:22.You know I like my grub, so hopefully there's nothing too fancy
:29:23. > :29:26.here. I love chips, I love stews, I love pies, I love burgers... So
:29:27. > :29:28.PLEASE...this isn't going to be the disappointment of the night, cos
:29:29. > :29:37.everything's been perfect so far, perfect. What's being served up is
:29:38. > :29:42.drisheen - better known as black pudding - and a local dish,
:29:43. > :29:51.crubeens. Yes, sir, you OK for everything else? What is this?!
:29:52. > :29:57.Crubeens. What? Pig's feet? Oh... Pig's feet?! Trotters. WAITER
:29:58. > :30:00.LAUGHS Pig's feet, would you eat pig's feet? It's a beautiful meat
:30:01. > :30:04.and it's a very old Irish traditional dish. Is it? That's
:30:05. > :30:07.been served in bars and... See, this is my ignorance then, I didn't
:30:08. > :30:13.know this. This is the first time in my life I've ever gone for the
:30:14. > :30:16.vegetables. Is he raging? THEY LAUGH FLUTE BAND PLAYS
:30:17. > :30:24.Hector's journey has brought him to Newtonstewart. It's the first time
:30:25. > :30:29.this boy from down south has been this close to a marching band, and
:30:30. > :30:49.it's having a profound effect. This is mental. This is... This is the...
:30:50. > :30:52.I don't know how to describe it. But it's probably the most tangible
:30:53. > :30:55.thing, you can hear it, you can feel it, you can relate to it,
:30:56. > :30:59.doesn't matter what part of the island you're on, we've all seen
:31:00. > :31:02.this. And now we're here, in the middle of their marching night.
:31:03. > :31:05.This is mental, this is mad. This band is called the Red Hand
:31:06. > :31:07.Defenders. For the first leg of their march they follow their
:31:08. > :31:11.traditional route around the town. During a short break, Hector jumps
:31:12. > :31:14.in to find out if he has anything in common with these boys. One of
:31:15. > :31:16.the boys said, "The nationalists have their GAA, "we've got our
:31:17. > :31:20.marching." But that's sport and music, two different things. Yeah,
:31:21. > :31:24.but it's similar to us. This is our big thing. This is summertime, this
:31:25. > :31:27.is what you like to do in the middle of summertime? Yep, I'm
:31:28. > :31:31.doing it now 30 years. Would you not like to get up there and climb
:31:32. > :31:34.the hills of Donegal, or...? The hills of Tyrone, why don't you go
:31:35. > :31:38.out fly-fishing on a Sunday? Huh? Are you real? HE LAUGHS Today is
:31:39. > :31:41.the 41st anniversary of the Red Hand defenders, and to mark it 40
:31:42. > :31:49.bands from all over Ulster have come to celebrate with them. It's a
:31:50. > :31:53.great show of unity, but to Hector, it still feels one-sided. Can I ask
:31:54. > :31:57.you this? And with all the greatest respect - does this hinder or help
:31:58. > :32:00.everything that's going on up here, the way people are trying to
:32:01. > :32:03.rebuild their lives? Do you really need to have 40 bands marching
:32:04. > :32:06.through a town that's 50/50 Catholic and Protestant? On a
:32:07. > :32:11.Friday night? I think if people... There's bands on both sides of the
:32:12. > :32:19.community. What do you mean, there's pipe bands...? There's pipe
:32:20. > :32:22.bands who are... Marching bands? Yes. Catholic marching bands?! Yes,
:32:23. > :32:26.there are Catholic marching bands! Come up the 17th of March or the
:32:27. > :32:29.15th of August and you'll find Catholic marching bands. OK, but
:32:30. > :32:33.they don't march together, do they? No. OK. See, let's take it a step
:32:34. > :32:50.at a time. I know... It's recognising your culture and where
:32:51. > :32:52.you came up from. Continuing his search for the genuine Irish
:32:53. > :32:56.experience, Stephen is sailing to a secluded island about 30 miles out
:32:57. > :33:01.in the Atlantic Ocean - Inis Meain. Inis Meain, that's the one. Is it a
:33:02. > :33:05.nice island? Nice island, yeah. Is there lots on it? There's, eh...
:33:06. > :33:08.There's ancient ruins and stuff, nice little pub, it's quiet, like,
:33:09. > :33:13.peaceful. You're playing this down, it better be good. Stephen's
:33:14. > :33:17.already dreading it, not least because all the inhabitants are
:33:18. > :33:19.native Irish speakers. I am not learning Irish. No interest!
:33:20. > :33:35.Whatsoever, none. Hello? But before he can discover
:33:36. > :33:57.his Irishness, he has to find his sea legs. Oh! This is my idea...of
:33:58. > :34:00.misery! I'm very sure this boat is about to capsize, because every
:34:01. > :34:04.time you get a bit steady, it rocks over that way. And I'm very aware
:34:05. > :34:06.that there's about 21 stone of my weight weighing it this way, and
:34:07. > :34:11.there's nothing weighing it that way! And then we're relying on a
:34:12. > :34:16.few Irish lifeguards downstairs that look as though they're in
:34:17. > :34:37.their late 70s, with beards. There's none of them's going to
:34:38. > :34:41.jump in and save me. Awful. Absolutely abysmal. Despite
:34:42. > :34:44.Stephen's fears, the boat has made it to dry land, but a bigger
:34:45. > :34:47.problem has presented itself when the island minibus delivers Stephen
:34:48. > :34:50.to his hotel. It's a wind-up, isn't it? It's shut! It seems there's
:34:51. > :34:58.confusion over Stephen's booking. Have you left us at the wrong
:34:59. > :35:01.hotel? To make matters more confusing, the hotel owner is only
:35:02. > :35:13.just arriving now. It's not the only thing lost in translation.
:35:14. > :35:20.What? Take a seat for a while. That could be the first Irish I've
:35:21. > :35:25.learned. What was that, shish what? Sui-shish? Sui sios. Well, we say
:35:26. > :35:35.SUH sios. And what's that mean? Just "sit down". And how do I say
:35:36. > :36:00.in Irish, "Am I booked in?" And how do you say yes? Brilliant, thank
:36:01. > :36:03.you. So we're actually in a wee bit of diffs here, because I've been
:36:04. > :36:06.giving him hassle for not having the hotel already, and actually -
:36:07. > :36:09.seriously - we've cocked up. We didn't book it, we actually booked
:36:10. > :36:12.somewhere else, and he's got his wife down. They're panicking,
:36:13. > :36:15.trying to get the rooms ready, and we're actually in the wrong place.
:36:16. > :36:21.A complete cock-up. Back in Newtonstewart the bands are in full
:36:22. > :36:24.fettle. The whole event can take four or five hours for everyone to
:36:25. > :36:27.parade through the town. They'll be marching well into the night, but
:36:28. > :36:30.Hector is ready to call it a day. It's now... I can't even hear
:36:31. > :36:33.myself. It's just band after band after band after band after
:36:34. > :36:36.marching band, and tune after tune after tune. And I'm getting a bit
:36:37. > :36:40.of a band headache after this. I need a cup of tea and a sit-down.
:36:41. > :36:47.Cos it's just getting a bit mad. I'm all band-out of it. It's a
:36:48. > :36:49.bright morning in Inis Meain, and Stephen is going to meet Maureen.
:36:50. > :36:57.She's one of 126 inhabitants, mostly over 55, and all of them
:36:58. > :37:01.fervently proud of their heritage. You see, part of this programme is
:37:02. > :37:08.for me to see if I can connect with my Irishness. I don't even know
:37:09. > :37:10.what my Irishness is. I'm going to give you an answer. Of course
:37:11. > :37:43.you're Irish. For instance, if I go into the
:37:44. > :37:46.local shop and I hear native Irish- speaking children, and if I hear
:37:47. > :37:50.them speaking English, I really have to put my fingers into my ears.
:37:51. > :37:53.Ach, it's not that bad! I don't like it. What do you think then is
:37:54. > :37:56.the real danger... Of losing Irish language? Of those kids starting to
:37:57. > :38:02.speak English? The real danger is people are not going to respect it
:38:03. > :38:05.as much as... We did. So do you think it makes you even more real
:38:06. > :38:12.Irish because you speak Irish? Of course! Yes. Why? Of course, and
:38:13. > :38:17.I'm proud of it. Because Irish... It's only a language. Still, it's
:38:18. > :38:30.our language, and your language is your culture. Hector is travelling
:38:31. > :38:33.up to the Antrim Coast. He's always been drawn to areas where language
:38:34. > :38:37.and culture play an important part. I used to live in the Basque
:38:38. > :38:40.Country, I went over to Bilbao for three weeks and stayed there for
:38:41. > :38:51.five years. So I understand language and minority languages.
:38:52. > :38:54.Hector's going to bring all he has learnt to a minority culture only
:38:55. > :38:58.found in Northern Ireland - Ulster Scots. Wee Bo Peep has lost her
:38:59. > :39:00.sheep and disnae know where to fin' them. Leave them alane and they'll
:39:01. > :39:04.come hame, wagging their tails behin' them. I'm glad I found the
:39:05. > :39:07.right bar in town. You're in the right one. Yous are all a bit
:39:08. > :39:10.strange, are you Ulster Scots in here? We're Ulster Scots, aye, we
:39:11. > :39:14.speak Ulster Scots and we are Ulster Scots. Both the way we speak
:39:15. > :39:21.and also our culture as well. Can we order two drinks in Ulster
:39:22. > :39:31.Scots? Are you paying? I will pay. You can order away then. If I was
:39:32. > :39:38.saying it in Irish, or Gaelic, I'd say... How would you say? I would
:39:39. > :39:42.say, "Can I get a pint and put it on the tic?" THEY LAUGH Get a pint
:39:43. > :39:46.and put it on the tic? Aye. Two pints and put it on the tic. You're
:39:47. > :39:48.getting there. "SCOTLAND THE BRAVE" PLAYS Although people have spoken
:39:49. > :39:51.this way for centuries, the term Ulster Scots didn't exist until the
:39:52. > :39:54.1980s, but it was brought to prominence in the Good Friday
:39:55. > :39:57.Agreement and given equal status with the Irish language. Did the
:39:58. > :40:00.boys up in Stormont not go, "Right, the Good Friday Agreement, we
:40:01. > :40:03.better include the Ulster Scots"? They did. Were you giving out stink
:40:04. > :40:06.that you weren't included? You says, "Well, the Catholics are getting
:40:07. > :40:09.money for the Irish language..." Ah, but that's a misconception. This is
:40:10. > :40:12.what I heard. Yes... And listen, that is how it was packaged,
:40:13. > :40:15."There's no such thing as Ulster Scots, "we'll invent Ulster Scots
:40:16. > :40:18.for the Protestants." A lot of nonsense, this is an Ulster Scots-
:40:19. > :40:21.speaking area, it doesn't matter if you're Protestant, Roman Catholic,
:40:22. > :40:24.Jewish, Chinese... Polish. Aye. The way you speak is geographical. If
:40:25. > :40:28.you were in France and you spoke French, it wouldnae matter what
:40:29. > :40:33.religion you are or where you go on a Sunday. Exactly. Expert in many
:40:34. > :40:39.languages, Hector is going to show off his linguistic skills. The next
:40:40. > :40:45."sang" we're going to hear from Ballymoney is I'll Tell Me Ma When
:40:46. > :40:48.I Go Ho... Hame... THEY LAUGH # I'll tell me ma when I go home #
:40:49. > :40:57.The boys won't leave the girls alone... # 'I expected a completely
:40:58. > :41:00.different language. 'Ulster Scots is a version of English with a
:41:01. > :41:03.Scottish dialect.' End of story. But what I do like is, that up in
:41:04. > :41:07.that little place in Ballymoney, they're trying to preserve a little
:41:08. > :41:09.bit of culture, and if they got funding off the Good Friday
:41:10. > :41:15.Agreement to keep their language alive, and a bit of tradition and
:41:16. > :41:18.culture, I've no problem with that. Back on his own cultural odyssey,
:41:19. > :41:23.Stephen is meeting a local poet who only writes in the Irish language.
:41:24. > :41:26.But, just in case, Stephen's brought along Bridgeen, his
:41:27. > :41:32.interpreter. This is some exercise, I tell you, up these hills. Oh, I'm
:41:33. > :41:40.exhausted. Hello. SHE SPEAKS IRISH This is Peadar Bore? Hello, Peadar,
:41:41. > :41:48.I'm Stephen. Do you speak any English? No. No? None? Erm, you
:41:49. > :41:53.show...show me? OK, can you tell...? Oh, she's gone. Can you
:41:54. > :42:01.tell him, what's he going to show me? Stay you with me, for goodness'
:42:02. > :42:07.sake. And Paedar has chosen something to break the ice. He's
:42:08. > :42:14.going to show you how to milk the cow. Milk the cow? No, no. I'll not
:42:15. > :42:21.be touching any teats. No, he'll show you how to... What's Irish for
:42:22. > :42:27.no? What's Irish for no? PAEDAR CONTINUES TALKING IN IRISH
:42:28. > :42:38.Awful. He likes walking. I don't do walking. Paedar, what is that? I
:42:39. > :42:42.don't even know what that is. DONKEY BRAYS Paedar? PAEDAR TALKS
:42:43. > :42:45.TO DONKEY Paedar is trying to calm Stephen's fear of the beasts of the
:42:46. > :43:11.field, but it's not working. Here we go. Sweet Jesus. There's a
:43:12. > :43:12.cow - Peadar, close the gate! PAEDAR SPEAKS IRISH STEPHEN MIMICS
:43:13. > :43:29.HIM. This is just so alien to me. And
:43:30. > :43:33.yet so beautiful. It is beautiful. There is a real dignity in what
:43:34. > :43:36.Peadar is doing, because he is proud of what he does, and his
:43:37. > :43:39.language is that language I have discounted, his language is that
:43:40. > :43:46.language that I have said I want to know nothing about, and yet that is
:43:47. > :43:50.his spoken language. And I think if I want him to respect me, I should
:43:51. > :43:58.be respecting him too, which I now do. It seems that across the
:43:59. > :44:10.language divide, respect is mutual. Oh! That's really nice. Can you
:44:11. > :44:12.tell him "thank you"? BRIDGEEN SPEAKS IRISH. Thank you very much,
:44:13. > :44:15.thank you. That's really sweet, this man not knowing me... I'll
:44:16. > :44:25.tell you what, I'm a fellow Irishman now. I've a completely
:44:26. > :44:31.different mindset from when I first came, because I just wasn't really
:44:32. > :44:35.taking it seriously enough. And Irishness and what it actually
:44:36. > :44:38.means. You know, it now actually means something to me. I'm not
:44:39. > :44:44.saying I've changed my identity, I haven't, but Irishness means
:44:45. > :44:51.something, it's real, it's lovely. The only... The only thing that
:44:52. > :44:55.could change my mind is the people. Nothing that I could write down,
:44:56. > :44:58.nobody telling me what to do. A compliment that I would give the
:44:59. > :45:02.people is they have changed someone who's really stubborn. Because of
:45:03. > :45:12.their authenticity and their integrity.
:45:13. > :45:23.Time for a well-deserved cup of tea and a warm bed.
:45:24. > :45:29.Breakfast With Hector, on 2FM. Yeah, welcome to Breakfast With Hector,
:45:30. > :45:33.we are in BBC Radio Foyle, and we're looking forward to our show
:45:34. > :45:36.from Derry. I feel as if Breakfast With Hector has landed in one of
:45:37. > :45:44.our strongholds, we've a lot of listeners in this neck of the woods.
:45:45. > :45:48.It's the fifth and final day. For Hector, this is almost home turf,
:45:49. > :45:52.he's right next to the border with Donegal. There's just time for a
:45:53. > :45:55.whistle-stop tour of the walls, the world-famous Bogside Murals, and a
:45:56. > :46:00.chance to meet the artists who painted them. This is a very human
:46:01. > :46:03.story and it's acclaimed around the world. It's celebrated by, as you
:46:04. > :46:07.can see, the many visitors that come to the city to see the work.
:46:08. > :46:13.There's no mystique around it, just a very human document, simple story.
:46:14. > :46:16.The murals are located on a very historical street, that's the key
:46:17. > :46:20.thing, these murals are about the ordinary men, women and children of
:46:21. > :46:23.this community. If you look at them carefully, they may be scenes of
:46:24. > :46:28.turbulent times, but they don't glorify... No, depicted brilliantly,
:46:29. > :46:32.they are absolutely brilliant, you picture the children and the faces
:46:33. > :46:35.and the women brilliantly. Absolutely, we address the issue of
:46:36. > :46:38.children by the mural over here, it's called The Death Of Innocence.
:46:39. > :46:42.And it's a little girl from this community who was the first child
:46:43. > :46:44.to be shot in our city. She represents all the children -
:46:45. > :46:48.Protestant, Catholic, English, Irish. I've been here for a few
:46:49. > :46:51.days, right, and I'm fed us asking questions, "Where are you from?
:46:52. > :46:54.What are you? "Which church do you go to?" I'm asking too many
:46:55. > :46:58.questions. I'm glad to see you've got some sort of work clothes on
:46:59. > :47:03.you there. Aye, I'm an artist. He's an artist! It's nearly time for our
:47:04. > :47:07.two explorers to finally meet, and here's the perfect place. In the
:47:08. > :47:11.middle of the River Foyle is a small island right on the border.
:47:12. > :47:15.But even here, North and South can't agree exactly where the
:47:16. > :47:19.border falls. On some maps they just ignore this island, so
:47:20. > :47:25.technically, it doesn't exist. Tomorrow Nolan and Hector will meet
:47:26. > :47:27.on no-man's-land. But before he goes home, Stephen wants to
:47:28. > :47:31.investigate something he knows nothing about - southern politics.
:47:32. > :47:36.Surprising, because politics is his bread and butter up north. But he
:47:37. > :47:39.wants to know if his brand of Nolanism would ever be welcomed
:47:40. > :47:43.down south, and as luck would have it, there's a by-election taking
:47:44. > :47:49.place in East Meath. Perfect opportunity to put his northern
:47:50. > :47:51.know-how to the test. Pat McParland, the Deputy General Secretary,
:47:52. > :47:57.Director Of Communications for Fianna Fail, he actually used to be
:47:58. > :48:03.up north. So I know him a little bit, he won't speak to me on camera,
:48:04. > :48:08.but he's going to get me his man. Great, cos I've no idea who his man
:48:09. > :48:11.is. Could be Noddy for all I know. Hmmm, don't let the big ears fool
:48:12. > :48:16.you, Stephen, but that's Noddy on the left. Stephen might still be a
:48:17. > :48:26.bit lost, but he can't help himself having a go. ..because if you want
:48:27. > :48:30.to bail out... Here we go. Well, if you want to bail out bonders, you
:48:31. > :48:34.ask the people. Here comes the spin. You ask the people. No different
:48:35. > :48:38.than any of the rest of them. Yeah, I know... Said it with a smile on
:48:39. > :48:40.his face as well. Just as bad as the boys up north. You don't even
:48:41. > :48:44.have proportional representation up there. Oh, right, you're going to
:48:45. > :48:46.have a go at our system now? Yeah, yeah. You see, politics isn't
:48:47. > :48:50.boring, politics is exciting no matter where you are and there you
:48:51. > :48:53.have a guy, it's rolling off his tongue as if he can make a
:48:54. > :48:56.difference and he probably believes he can. I'm just cynical towards
:48:57. > :48:59.every one of them, that's how I've been brought up. The favourite
:49:00. > :49:02.candidate is Helen McEntee. Stephen has just found out she's the
:49:03. > :49:05.daughter of the last TD who died tragically, which causes him to ask
:49:06. > :49:07.the obvious question. Is there much nepotism and...? Well, ish, but the
:49:08. > :49:11.circumstances in this particular incident are different than the
:49:12. > :49:15.norm. But there is an element of that in politics down this part of
:49:16. > :49:18.the country. Really? What ways does it usually work then? Well, fathers
:49:19. > :49:25.and daughters and, you know, daughters and sons, and that's the
:49:26. > :49:32.way it works. Why? Why? Aye. I don't know why. Suddenly, Stephen
:49:33. > :49:38.has found a familiar face. Welcome to this part of the island. Thank
:49:39. > :49:41.you very much. What's the difference for you from down here
:49:42. > :49:43.and up there? Politics are in transition. You know, they're in
:49:44. > :49:46.transition in the North even though it's like the iceberg melting
:49:47. > :49:49.because of the peace process and all of that. And they're in
:49:50. > :49:52.transition here because of the economic crisis and the corruption.
:49:53. > :49:57.I mean, why have two conflicting health services? Why have
:49:58. > :50:00.competition for jobs? Our health service in Northern Ireland is far
:50:01. > :50:04.better than down here, isn't it? Well, it is, it could be improved...
:50:05. > :50:07.That's why you have two, cos we don't want yours. What frightens
:50:08. > :50:10.me...when I'm asked to come down and subsume everything that is
:50:11. > :50:13.about down here, it's not my British identity, it's my Northern
:50:14. > :50:18.Irish identity. I'm proud to be Northern Irish. And I'm not talking
:50:19. > :50:22.about the difference between British and Irish. Northern Irish
:50:23. > :50:25.is what's important to me. Does that mean you're a wee bit Irish?
:50:26. > :50:28.You're now only getting what I've had for all my life - the
:50:29. > :50:32.opportunity to travel throughout the entire island. Do you take a
:50:33. > :50:45.pint? Peach Schnapps. I don't drink any of these beers. Right. Well, OK.
:50:46. > :50:48.THEY CHUCKLE. With politicians in the North, the door is always open
:50:49. > :50:51.to Stephen, so, naturally, before he leaves, he wants to speak to the
:50:52. > :50:59.favourite candidate here, Helen McEntee. Want to go through? Will
:51:00. > :51:05.she speak to me for a second? She... Where are you from? Northern
:51:06. > :51:09.Ireland. No, like, what's the video for? It's for the BBC. So, I'm
:51:10. > :51:12.Stephen, I know nothing about southern politics. OK. She probably
:51:13. > :51:16.won't at the moment to be honest, because we're just getting ready
:51:17. > :51:18.for the next count to be announced and stuff like that. Sorry, what's
:51:19. > :51:25.your name? My name's Stephen. Stephen, how are you doing? Yes. I
:51:26. > :51:29.gather Helen's unavailable at the moment. Unavailable? Yeah. Why's
:51:30. > :51:32.that now? She's sitting having a wee drink. Well, exactly. And I'm
:51:33. > :51:35.down here to try to learn all about politics down here and this
:51:36. > :51:37.candidate. Yeah, OK. If Helen becomes available, I'll let you
:51:38. > :51:40.know. And what would the circumstances be when she'd become
:51:41. > :51:43.available? I don't know, I don't want to hypothesise on it. Right.
:51:44. > :51:47.She got a full diary today, does she? Eh, yeah, I'm sure she does.
:51:48. > :51:50.Is there a wee gap for me? I've come all the way down from Belfast.
:51:51. > :51:55.Don't make me repeat myself. All the way down! OK. Look, by the way,
:51:56. > :51:59.see the way she's unavailable. Look, chatting to her mates. All I wanted
:52:00. > :52:02.to say to Helen was, "What's the campaign like?" And my goodness, up
:52:03. > :52:05.comes one protector, then we get the press officer, "We'll see if
:52:06. > :52:07.she's going to become available later on." Here's the score - I
:52:08. > :52:11.don't actually care whether she's available now or next year. In fact,
:52:12. > :52:15.I don't even want to speak to her any more. Back in Derry and Hector
:52:16. > :52:17.is on the Peace Bridge. Opened in 2011, this landmark was designed to
:52:18. > :52:22.join the two communities, Catholic and Protestant, together. How are
:52:23. > :52:29.you? Are you well? There's the future of Northern Ireland. How are
:52:30. > :52:33.you doing? Hector. How are you? Hi. Where are these children from?
:52:34. > :52:36.They're from the Long Tower School and Fountain Primary School, we do
:52:37. > :52:38.a joint project, you know, cross- community. Brilliant, it's all
:52:39. > :52:44.about that, isn't it? Yep. And this is the bridge to do it. Yeah, Peace
:52:45. > :52:54.Bridge. The Peace Bridge. See you later. Say bye. Bye. Bye. That's
:52:55. > :52:57.what it's all about, you know what I mean? For the last couple of days,
:52:58. > :53:01.I've been asking people, "Are you Catholic? Are you Protestant? "What
:53:02. > :53:04.church do you go to? "Do you go to this church, that church?" Do you
:53:05. > :53:08.know what I mean? It's hard enough for me to have my own bit of faith
:53:09. > :53:11.back home. I'm fed up asking other people up here, "What's your
:53:12. > :53:14.faith?" It means nothing to me, it's not important. And out here on
:53:15. > :53:17.the water, borders are even less important. Hector is nearly home.
:53:18. > :53:19.He can see the hills of Donegal out on patrol with Fisheries Officer
:53:20. > :53:22.Lionel Knobs. Traditionally, Fisheries Officers only had
:53:23. > :53:26.jurisdiction in the North. Poachers knew where the border fell and used
:53:27. > :53:30.that knowledge to escape arrest in the South. But closer co-operation
:53:31. > :53:37.has meant the wardens can now operate on both sides of the border.
:53:38. > :53:40.Tell me exactly, where's Donegal? Oh, Donegal's on the opposite shore
:53:41. > :53:47.here, just as I'm pointing across here. Yeah. And Derry. And Tyrone
:53:48. > :53:51.is this way here. Lionel, who were the smugglers? Who were the
:53:52. > :53:54.poachers? Who were they? Were they the boys from the Bogside, or the
:53:55. > :54:00.lads from the hills of Donegal, or the Presbyterians of Tyrone? Mainly
:54:01. > :54:09.from that side of the river. Ahhh! Where are your people from? I
:54:10. > :54:12.couldn't say. Over there. The thing is, you can't see the border out
:54:13. > :54:17.here because it runs right through the middle of the Foyle. Is there a
:54:18. > :54:23.border on the river? Can you see it? No, do the fish know there's a
:54:24. > :54:27.border? Absolutely not. Because they're crossing every day. Where
:54:28. > :54:30.is it? Is it there? Is it there? It turns out you're in one country and
:54:31. > :54:34.I'm in another as we speak. So, this side of the boat... That side,
:54:35. > :54:37.you know, so... Well, here, hang on a second. Here's one I got earlier.
:54:38. > :54:41.I hope you've got a licence for that. Can you tell me where this
:54:42. > :54:44.lad came from? That's a fantastic salmon caught this morning in one
:54:45. > :54:46.of our local rivers. You know, there's a great Irish story about
:54:47. > :54:50.the salmon of knowledge, bradan feasa, the salmon that you had to
:54:51. > :54:53.eat to give you the eternal knowledge for the country. This
:54:54. > :54:57.salmon has been here way before any troubles, hasn't he? Absolutely.
:54:58. > :54:59.Way before any factions, or churches, or Quakers, or
:55:00. > :55:07.Presbyterians, or Catholics. Or even Vikings. Or even Vikings.
:55:08. > :55:12.Shall we set him free? Look at your face. He's a fantastic specimen.
:55:13. > :55:17.Fantastic fish, and that's part of the attraction to this part of
:55:18. > :55:21.Ireland. Ah, it's great. The remoteness and the wildness and the
:55:22. > :55:27.freedom you have when you come here. The border's invisible. Good point.
:55:28. > :55:31.It's the end of the experiment. For the final part of their journey,
:55:32. > :55:34.Nolan and Hector are going to meet on an island that is neither North
:55:35. > :55:37.nor South. Well, they're going to meet on the bridge, because the
:55:38. > :55:42.border falls somewhere in the middle of the river. It's the first
:55:43. > :55:46.time they've met and, fair to say, they are a little wary of each
:55:47. > :55:53.other. But never mind the meeting of these two Irishmen - will this
:55:54. > :55:59.bridge hold these two egos? Nice to meet you. Good to see you, nice to
:56:00. > :56:02.meet you too. What did you find? Ireland in the 1950s? Was it, "And
:56:03. > :56:06.tonight, Ireland will be in the 1950s"? What are you trying to say?
:56:07. > :56:08.Do you want me to come down and fake it and say, "Ach, everything's
:56:09. > :56:12.beautiful and everything's wonderful"? Did you want it real or
:56:13. > :56:17.did you want it fake? You need to knock this bitterness out of you.
:56:18. > :56:25.What bitterness? I'm not... There is bitterness. Look, there's a lot
:56:26. > :56:31.of wholesome goodness in me, Hector. Stephen, I went for an Ulster fry.
:56:32. > :56:34.Right. You're needing a few more. Every man, woman and child I talked
:56:35. > :56:37.to, "Have an Ulster..." You don't own sausages, you know. Pig's feet?
:56:38. > :56:41.Hector, pig's feet. A traditional dish of Ireland? Rotten! Stinking!
:56:42. > :56:45.If I knew you were going to have that, I would have sorted that out.
:56:46. > :56:49.I apologise on behalf of the people of my neck of the woods. How did
:56:50. > :56:52.you get on down there? Did you see any culture? Come on, Stephen.
:56:53. > :56:55.There was a really touching moment for me, on Inis Meain, because
:56:56. > :56:58.there was a man that some people, I don't know, they might mock him, he
:56:59. > :57:02.couldn't speak English, and at the very end, there was an act of
:57:03. > :57:05.kindness that has stayed with me. Because I walked over and he hand-
:57:06. > :57:09.made this little wicker basket for me. Lovely. And he didn't know me,
:57:10. > :57:12.and he didn't have to do it and he wasn't told to do it. That's the
:57:13. > :57:15.decency of the people of this country. Yeah. It doesn't matter
:57:16. > :57:18.where we're from. But you know what? We've got really one thing in
:57:19. > :57:22.common, really one thing, and what I wanted to come and find out was
:57:23. > :57:25.what unites us, not what divides us, because I've heard that word too
:57:26. > :57:28.many times up here. It's the love, and I mean love, of Manchester
:57:29. > :57:31.United. Champions. Champions. I've got a season ticket. I was over
:57:32. > :57:35.there a couple of weeks ago. Brilliant. Thank you, mate. All
:57:36. > :57:38.right, man. Good to see you. Good to see you. See you later. It's
:57:39. > :57:44.just been wonderful for me to broaden my mind. Like, think about
:57:45. > :57:48.that, for me to actually learn about what is an hour and a half up
:57:49. > :57:52.the road. How stupid have I been during my life not to do so until
:57:53. > :57:55.now? Hector - he's class! They're a spirited people up here, there's
:57:56. > :57:58.fire in their belly and they've got a good sense of humour. You know
:57:59. > :58:01.what? We're losing an awful lot of people off this island to
:58:02. > :58:05.emigration, the whole island is suffering, so let's keep as many as
:58:06. > :58:08.we can, let's get on with each other. I have learnt that there is
:58:09. > :58:10.too much ignorance, and it's lazy. We're a little island outcast into
:58:11. > :58:12.the Atlantic. North, south, east and west, let's all get on with
:58:13. > :58:18.each other.