Fogo Island Inn, Canada

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05All over the world there are remarkable hotels,

0:00:05 > 0:00:07born of bold vision and daring endeavour.

0:00:09 > 0:00:11(Oh, my goodness, look at that.)

0:00:12 > 0:00:15Whether it's an epic structure housing a sky park the length of

0:00:15 > 0:00:17the Eiffel Tower...

0:00:17 > 0:00:19This is definitely the biggest space I've ever been inside.

0:00:22 > 0:00:25..or a glass box perched in the cloud forest.

0:00:25 > 0:00:27- Look at that view.- Wow.

0:00:29 > 0:00:33They're all products of innovation, creativity and hard graft.

0:00:34 > 0:00:37The people running these hotels strive to create

0:00:37 > 0:00:38the perfect sanctuary.

0:00:39 > 0:00:44But what does it take to offer once-in-a-lifetime experiences

0:00:44 > 0:00:46in stunning locations?

0:00:46 > 0:00:47To build a hotel in a place like this,

0:00:47 > 0:00:49everybody thinks I'm crazy.

0:00:50 > 0:00:55In total, we have about 160,000 pieces of uniform.

0:00:55 > 0:00:57- BELL CHIMES - Oh, my word.

0:00:58 > 0:01:00I'm a restaurant writer, newspaper columnist and critic -

0:01:00 > 0:01:03I have opinions on just about everything.

0:01:03 > 0:01:05What a mad place to build a hotel.

0:01:05 > 0:01:09I feel like Scott of the Antarctic, and it did not end well for him.

0:01:09 > 0:01:13And I'm a chef, who's worked at the top end of the hospitality industry

0:01:13 > 0:01:14for well over 20 years.

0:01:14 > 0:01:17How many opportunities do you get to cook breakfast

0:01:17 > 0:01:19with elephants and giraffes?

0:01:21 > 0:01:25We'll travel to amazing hotels in every corner of the world...

0:01:25 > 0:01:28..to spend time getting to know the people working away

0:01:28 > 0:01:29behind the scenes.

0:01:29 > 0:01:31When did you last have a full night's sleep?

0:01:31 > 0:01:33- I don't remember.- Really?

0:01:33 > 0:01:34Yes.

0:01:34 > 0:01:36What motivates you to work so hard?

0:01:36 > 0:01:39- The kids.- The kids.- I'll sacrifice everything for them.

0:01:39 > 0:01:41CHEERING

0:01:41 > 0:01:44Join us as we venture inside...

0:01:47 > 0:01:49..the world's most extraordinary hotels.

0:01:56 > 0:01:59This is Fogo Island,

0:01:59 > 0:02:01and it feels very far away.

0:02:02 > 0:02:05It's taken us two days of travel by air, road,

0:02:05 > 0:02:08and sea to get to this remote, rocky outpost.

0:02:09 > 0:02:13Perched off the east coast of Canada, and above Newfoundland,

0:02:13 > 0:02:14Fogo is a tiny island,

0:02:14 > 0:02:16only 15 miles long,

0:02:16 > 0:02:18with the weather extremes of a continent.

0:02:21 > 0:02:24It can hit 25 degrees here in the summer,

0:02:24 > 0:02:26but in winter the sea freezes over.

0:02:28 > 0:02:33There are 11 small communities dotted across the island,

0:02:33 > 0:02:36people from Europe having settling here in the 18th century

0:02:36 > 0:02:39for one reason and one reason only -

0:02:39 > 0:02:41the abundant supply of cod.

0:02:43 > 0:02:46At first glance, and indeed at second and third glance,

0:02:46 > 0:02:49Fogo looks barren and inhospitable,

0:02:49 > 0:02:53so why would anyone want to build a hotel on these storm-lashed rocks at

0:02:53 > 0:02:55the very edge of the world?

0:03:05 > 0:03:08Especially one that's expensive, exclusive,

0:03:08 > 0:03:11and at a cost of over £20 million.

0:03:16 > 0:03:19Wow. Well, I, erm...

0:03:19 > 0:03:21I wasn't expecting that.

0:03:21 > 0:03:26It doesn't look an awful lot like a hotel, but just huge and angular.

0:03:27 > 0:03:28On stilts!

0:03:28 > 0:03:30Wow.

0:03:30 > 0:03:34Amazing. It really does stand out from the landscape.

0:03:34 > 0:03:36I think it's, sort of, beautiful.

0:03:39 > 0:03:41The Fogo Island Inn is the brainchild of Zita Cobb

0:03:41 > 0:03:43and her family.

0:03:43 > 0:03:45It's a passionate, personal project,

0:03:45 > 0:03:48but Zita humbly refers to herself as the innkeeper.

0:03:48 > 0:03:51Now, what is that umbrella doing?

0:03:51 > 0:03:52We're going to hide it in the closet.

0:03:52 > 0:03:54You only need them when it's raining,

0:03:54 > 0:03:56and, until then, they're just litter,

0:03:56 > 0:03:58and they need to be hid away in the closet,

0:03:58 > 0:03:59and never opened up inside.

0:04:01 > 0:04:04This is Zita's first foray into the hotel business.

0:04:09 > 0:04:11We, at our inn, we don't have a rule book.

0:04:11 > 0:04:16We practise hospitality, you know, in a way that doesn't seem like

0:04:16 > 0:04:20it's professional, in the industry sense of the word,

0:04:20 > 0:04:23but it's entirely natural

0:04:23 > 0:04:25and entirely human.

0:04:33 > 0:04:35- Hello. - Welcome to the Fogo Island Inn.

0:04:35 > 0:04:37Thank you. Oh, I like the looks of that fire.

0:04:39 > 0:04:42Oh, it's nice and warm in here.

0:04:42 > 0:04:44'Coming in from the fierce cold, this place feels

0:04:44 > 0:04:45'cosy and welcoming.'

0:04:47 > 0:04:52'There are 29 rooms, and the inn employs 110 members of staff.

0:04:53 > 0:04:56'The impressive dining room has two walls of glass that offer

0:04:56 > 0:04:58'spectacular views out across the Atlantic.'

0:05:00 > 0:05:03'A room here costs between £1,000 and £2,500 per night.

0:05:05 > 0:05:09'This place is not only the most expensive hotel on the island,

0:05:09 > 0:05:11'it's the only hotel on the island.'

0:05:13 > 0:05:14And here is your key, sir.

0:05:14 > 0:05:16- Thank you very much.- You're welcome.

0:05:18 > 0:05:20'We'll be staying in guest rooms,

0:05:20 > 0:05:23'before being immersed into hotel life.'

0:05:23 > 0:05:24Beautiful.

0:05:25 > 0:05:27Wow. Look at that view.

0:05:29 > 0:05:32'The ancestors of some of the staff here came from the southern coast of

0:05:32 > 0:05:36'England and the west of Ireland over 300 years ago,

0:05:36 > 0:05:40'and they speak with the island's unique local accent -

0:05:40 > 0:05:44'part Canadian, part Dorset, with an Irish twang for good measure,

0:05:44 > 0:05:47'it can take a bit of getting used to.'

0:05:47 > 0:05:50- A lot of people ask if we're twins, or sisters.- A lot.

0:05:50 > 0:05:52We get that a lot,

0:05:52 > 0:05:56and, as you see, we finish one another's sentences a lot,

0:05:56 > 0:05:59and we even go sync mopping together,

0:05:59 > 0:06:02because we're that much alike that we can do that together, so...

0:06:02 > 0:06:04'Now, in case you didn't catch that,

0:06:04 > 0:06:06'people often ask these eighth-generation islanders,

0:06:06 > 0:06:09'Lori and Cynthia, if they're twins.

0:06:09 > 0:06:10'They're not,

0:06:10 > 0:06:13'but they are sisters who finish each other's sentences.

0:06:13 > 0:06:16'Oh, and they enjoy synchronised mopping.'

0:06:16 > 0:06:18We actually walked in together, side-by-side,

0:06:18 > 0:06:21and years later we're still side-by-side,

0:06:21 > 0:06:23so, it's great - it's a great relationship.

0:06:23 > 0:06:25We can work together really, really well,

0:06:25 > 0:06:29so I like it, and I think she do, too, so...

0:06:29 > 0:06:31Oh, yeah, loves it.

0:06:31 > 0:06:33Everything was back from years ago.

0:06:33 > 0:06:35We have Miss Zita to thank for that.

0:06:35 > 0:06:38Zita's inspired by the old-time look,

0:06:38 > 0:06:42and I think she hit it on the head when she designed these rooms.

0:06:42 > 0:06:43Everything is beautiful,

0:06:43 > 0:06:47from this tiny woodstove to the wallpaper to the chairs to the

0:06:47 > 0:06:48old-fashioned quilts.

0:06:48 > 0:06:51Even I ain't got home-made quilts, and wallpaper.

0:06:51 > 0:06:53Nobody has wallpaper in their house any more,

0:06:53 > 0:06:56but this wallpaper was made for here and it's beautiful.

0:06:58 > 0:07:04And the inn really does offer a place to put what we know.

0:07:05 > 0:07:08Nearly everything here, from the furniture to the upholstery,

0:07:08 > 0:07:10Zita's had locally made,

0:07:10 > 0:07:14with the ambition of giving the Fogo vernacular a modern twist.

0:07:14 > 0:07:18The result is a place that feels comfortingly familiar.

0:07:18 > 0:07:19We've had guests say that,

0:07:19 > 0:07:22"Actually, it's just like walking back into my grandmother's house."

0:07:22 > 0:07:24And the view just tops it off.

0:07:24 > 0:07:26Everyone's amazed with the view.

0:07:26 > 0:07:29You get icebergs, whales jumping out of the water...

0:07:29 > 0:07:31Just beautiful.

0:07:31 > 0:07:33It's a whale, or possibly an island.

0:07:34 > 0:07:38Peaceful. Something I could sit down and watch all day.

0:07:39 > 0:07:42Oh, look, there's a scarf here for me.

0:07:42 > 0:07:44That is so sweet.

0:07:44 > 0:07:47We'd go out of our way to please all of the guests,

0:07:47 > 0:07:52and whatever they request, we try to make sure it's done for them.

0:07:52 > 0:07:54It's a dictionary of Newfoundland English.

0:07:56 > 0:07:57I'm not selecting these -

0:07:57 > 0:07:59I'm literally putting my finger on the first word I see.

0:07:59 > 0:08:01This one is scrubber -

0:08:01 > 0:08:04"A board or fender bar along the side of a boat or vessel

0:08:04 > 0:08:05"to protect the hull from scraping."

0:08:05 > 0:08:07Hence the expression in Newfoundland,

0:08:07 > 0:08:09"You won't get far around here without a scrubber."

0:08:09 > 0:08:12"Hot ass - a tin kettle with a large, flat bottom

0:08:12 > 0:08:14"and sides tapering to the top."

0:08:14 > 0:08:17That is genius. So, I can call down to reception,

0:08:17 > 0:08:19"Can you send up a couple of hot asses?"

0:08:20 > 0:08:21This is really pretty.

0:08:24 > 0:08:25Oh, look, here we go.

0:08:27 > 0:08:32Made by Millicent Dwyer, 2015, on Fogo Island.

0:08:33 > 0:08:34That is so sweet.

0:08:38 > 0:08:40We've had some famous people,

0:08:40 > 0:08:42and I'm sure we'll have more.

0:08:42 > 0:08:47We've had politicians, and Hollywood movie stars, yes, we've had,

0:08:47 > 0:08:49but I shall not say the names.

0:08:50 > 0:08:53'Sorry, Cynthia, but I've looked it up, and it was Gwyneth Paltrow,

0:08:53 > 0:08:54'a couple of months ago.'

0:08:55 > 0:08:58You need to see this. You need to see this.

0:08:58 > 0:09:01I mean, I'm not a loo fetishist. I wouldn't normally bother, but...

0:09:01 > 0:09:03TOILET CHIMES

0:09:03 > 0:09:07I do love a lavatory that says hello when you walk into the room.

0:09:07 > 0:09:09TOILET CHIMES

0:09:09 > 0:09:12We want the chair inviting to sit in, so we pouf it up.

0:09:18 > 0:09:21Oh, my goodness.

0:09:21 > 0:09:24Oh, that is so soft and comfortable.

0:09:24 > 0:09:25Yeah, I'm right at home here.

0:09:26 > 0:09:31It's a great job. Some people don't look at housekeeping as a great job,

0:09:31 > 0:09:32but I do - I love it at housekeeping.

0:09:32 > 0:09:33- Yeah.- I love cleaning, so...

0:09:33 > 0:09:36- But it's not like cleaning your own home.- No, it's not. It's different.

0:09:36 > 0:09:38There's no baggage.

0:09:38 > 0:09:42That's our finished product, waiting for our guest.

0:09:42 > 0:09:44Wouldn't you want to get in that bed? I would.

0:09:44 > 0:09:46THEY LAUGH

0:09:48 > 0:09:51'If we're to understand why this Martian spacecraft on stilts

0:09:51 > 0:09:55'has been built out here on the rocks, then the best person to ask

0:09:55 > 0:09:57'is the architect, Todd Saunders.'

0:09:59 > 0:10:00- Hey, Todd.- Hi, Giles.

0:10:00 > 0:10:03Do you do this often, come out here and have a fire?

0:10:03 > 0:10:04Every now and then.

0:10:04 > 0:10:06Every now and then I come out and have a cup of coffee

0:10:06 > 0:10:08with some of the other people around.

0:10:08 > 0:10:09And admire your handiwork?

0:10:09 > 0:10:10I try to.

0:10:12 > 0:10:15'Zita picked Todd both for his talent

0:10:15 > 0:10:18'and because he's a local boy with local knowledge.'

0:10:18 > 0:10:21I grew up here. I knew the scent, the smells, the berries,

0:10:21 > 0:10:24the food we ate, I knew the type of people here,

0:10:24 > 0:10:26and so I didn't need any explanation of what

0:10:26 > 0:10:29- Newfoundland architecture could be. - Yeah.

0:10:29 > 0:10:30Tell me about the stilts.

0:10:30 > 0:10:33That's a bit of a homage to the past.

0:10:33 > 0:10:35All of the buildings are built on little stilts,

0:10:35 > 0:10:37cos they didn't have sand here, actually, to do concrete,

0:10:37 > 0:10:39and the fishermen didn't have time to make foundations,

0:10:39 > 0:10:42so the fastest way to do it was to just put them on

0:10:42 > 0:10:44these wooden poles, make a flat level,

0:10:44 > 0:10:45and then build the building above it.

0:10:46 > 0:10:48They're not all straight.

0:10:48 > 0:10:49Some of them are at angles

0:10:49 > 0:10:51- Is that an aesthetic thing? - Yeah, yeah...

0:10:51 > 0:10:53It was a bit...the way they always did them.

0:10:53 > 0:10:54They never did them perfectly straight -

0:10:54 > 0:10:56it was more a haphazard thing.

0:10:56 > 0:10:59So, the buildings actually have this amphibious quality to them,

0:10:59 > 0:11:02and they look like they're half on land and half in the water.

0:11:06 > 0:11:09'In 2008, this exposed location was chosen for the inn.

0:11:10 > 0:11:14'Construction began with steel, concrete, and black spruce,

0:11:14 > 0:11:17'a design built to withstand the test of time and weather.

0:11:19 > 0:11:22'The inn took three years to complete,

0:11:22 > 0:11:25'using around 70% locally-sourced materials,

0:11:25 > 0:11:29'and the 450 passionately committed people involved in realising

0:11:29 > 0:11:32'the project all had to adhere to one golden rule -

0:11:32 > 0:11:35'it had to feel familiar, but modern.'

0:11:37 > 0:11:39There's a special feeling about a Newfoundland home,

0:11:39 > 0:11:40and we couldn't put our finger on it.

0:11:40 > 0:11:42We said, "You know, everything on

0:11:42 > 0:11:44"this island was from this island before."

0:11:44 > 0:11:47So we said, "OK, everything in this inn will be made on the island."

0:11:47 > 0:11:50So everything is made out of the workshop just up the road.

0:11:50 > 0:11:51Were you made on the island?

0:11:51 > 0:11:53- I was about an hour away from here. - Really?

0:11:53 > 0:11:57In the back-seat of a Volkswagen Beetle.

0:12:02 > 0:12:05Hello, how are you?

0:12:05 > 0:12:06- I'm good.- Welcome back.

0:12:06 > 0:12:09'Todd's architecture is clearly having an impact.

0:12:09 > 0:12:11'The inn has only been open a few years,

0:12:11 > 0:12:14'and already there are returning guests.

0:12:14 > 0:12:17'Janet Fitzpatrick, a psychiatrist from the mainland,

0:12:17 > 0:12:19'is on her eighth visit.'

0:12:19 > 0:12:21I come here and there's just a peace that comes over me.

0:12:21 > 0:12:24As soon as I walk in this inn, I feel...

0:12:24 > 0:12:26- SHE INHALES - ..I can breathe.

0:12:26 > 0:12:28And you speak very highly of the people that are here.

0:12:28 > 0:12:31- The people are fantastic...- Yeah. - ..and they love this island.

0:12:31 > 0:12:33Everybody here loves where they live.

0:12:33 > 0:12:36You come and stay here for a few days and you understand that -

0:12:36 > 0:12:38you understand that feeling.

0:12:38 > 0:12:41I mean, the thing I really hope that every person that comes to

0:12:41 > 0:12:46the inn gets a really strong sense of is place -

0:12:46 > 0:12:47place, place, place.

0:12:49 > 0:12:53Zita's ambition for the inn is to reflect everything that's special

0:12:53 > 0:12:57about this island in terms of nature and culture,

0:12:57 > 0:12:59right down to the food.

0:12:59 > 0:13:03Our job is to do our best to put Fogo Island on a plate.

0:13:04 > 0:13:06Our food should taste like Fogo Island.

0:13:07 > 0:13:09'I want to discover what the island's specialties are

0:13:09 > 0:13:12'and how the kitchen is using them...'

0:13:12 > 0:13:14Can I get a quick run for table 21, please?

0:13:14 > 0:13:15That's dairy-free.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18'..so I'm joining the two chefs entrusted by Zita to uphold

0:13:18 > 0:13:21'her local culinary vision,

0:13:21 > 0:13:23'for lunchtime service.

0:13:23 > 0:13:24'Ian Sheridan...'

0:13:24 > 0:13:26It's a happy, loving kitchen.

0:13:26 > 0:13:28'..and Tim Charles.'

0:13:28 > 0:13:29It's going to get some kale.

0:13:29 > 0:13:33- Is this for three? So, I want enough kale for three, as well?- Yes.

0:13:36 > 0:13:39It feels good to be doing something I know.

0:13:40 > 0:13:42'It doesn't take long before I find out

0:13:42 > 0:13:45'just what's so special about this island.

0:13:45 > 0:13:48'What looks at first glance like a barren landscape is

0:13:48 > 0:13:51'an incredible larder of wild ingredients,

0:13:51 > 0:13:53'right under the nose of the inn.'

0:13:54 > 0:13:55Look at that.

0:13:55 > 0:13:58The hotel's just there, and you've got juniper out here.

0:13:58 > 0:14:00It's right underneath the dining room.

0:14:00 > 0:14:04'Unbelievably, there are 16 varieties of edible berry

0:14:04 > 0:14:07'growing wild here on Fogo, but the boys want to show me

0:14:07 > 0:14:12'by far the most important food here that encapsulates the island -

0:14:12 > 0:14:13'cod.'

0:14:16 > 0:14:18We'll receive them like this, and then we'll

0:14:18 > 0:14:19break them down into portions,

0:14:19 > 0:14:22and then we'll take and trim bits, and use them that way.

0:14:25 > 0:14:29I love cod, as well - it's one of my favourite fish.

0:14:29 > 0:14:32It's the reason why everyone's on the island in the first place -

0:14:32 > 0:14:34they came for the fish and they stayed for the fish.

0:14:36 > 0:14:39- Dead centre? - Put it all over the rim.

0:14:39 > 0:14:40All over the rim?

0:14:40 > 0:14:41I'm kidding.

0:14:41 > 0:14:43THEY LAUGH

0:14:44 > 0:14:46That's one of my pet hates!

0:14:50 > 0:14:52That's it, you and I, we're over.

0:14:52 > 0:14:55- Splatter...- Yeah, delete my number off your phone.

0:14:55 > 0:14:57THEY LAUGH

0:14:57 > 0:15:00'Both Tim and Ian are from mainland Canada,

0:15:00 > 0:15:03'and Zita knows they bring in valuable skills to the inn.'

0:15:03 > 0:15:06There's a whole bunch of things we just don't know,

0:15:06 > 0:15:08and, with every person that comes to this island,

0:15:08 > 0:15:11they bring a whole other world -

0:15:11 > 0:15:14a whole other, kind of way, of knowing that is new

0:15:14 > 0:15:16and makes us stronger.

0:15:21 > 0:15:24'The inn overlooks traditional fishing grounds,

0:15:24 > 0:15:27'but it's at the mercy of the weather.

0:15:27 > 0:15:29'They say there are seven seasons on Fogo,

0:15:29 > 0:15:32'and this building must endure sub-zero temperatures,

0:15:32 > 0:15:36'hurricane winds, downpours, and burning sunshine.

0:15:38 > 0:15:42'The man battling to stop the place from being consumed by the elements

0:15:42 > 0:15:46'is maintenance supremo Don Paul, who's also from the mainland.'

0:15:46 > 0:15:48Now, that's salt water in the air, I would say.

0:15:50 > 0:15:52'Don's going to show me how he keeps the inn

0:15:52 > 0:15:54'from succumbing to the weather -

0:15:54 > 0:15:57'as long as he's got a pair of wellies in my size.'

0:15:57 > 0:15:59Can I fill your boots, Don? That's the question.

0:15:59 > 0:16:01I'd be really appreciative if you could.

0:16:01 > 0:16:03- Really?- Yes.- Do you think I'd be genuinely helpful?

0:16:03 > 0:16:06- What are we doing?- Oh, truly. You're going to need this.

0:16:06 > 0:16:08- I'm going to get wet, you're saying? - You could.

0:16:08 > 0:16:12Better to be looking at it, as I always say, than looking for it.

0:16:12 > 0:16:15- How do I look?- You look great.

0:16:15 > 0:16:18I wouldn't want my Savile Row tailored shirts to get

0:16:18 > 0:16:19- crust on them.- That's right.

0:16:22 > 0:16:26'Today, we're concentrating on the sea spray that sticks to the windows

0:16:26 > 0:16:28'and must be scraped off continually

0:16:28 > 0:16:31'so that guests can enjoy a crust-free view.'

0:16:31 > 0:16:33So, in this game, it's all about length, is it?

0:16:33 > 0:16:37Length is what it is all about when you've got to go reach for the top.

0:16:39 > 0:16:41GEORGE FORMBY: # Now I go cleanin' windows

0:16:41 > 0:16:43# To earn an honest bob

0:16:43 > 0:16:46# For a nosy parker It's an interesting job... #

0:16:46 > 0:16:47GILES: # It's a job that just suits me

0:16:47 > 0:16:49# A window cleaner you would be

0:16:49 > 0:16:51# If you could see what I can see

0:16:51 > 0:16:53BOTH: # When I'm cleaning windows. #

0:16:53 > 0:16:56It's hard on the neck. I think this is the hardest part of the job.

0:16:56 > 0:16:58It must be a thankless task.

0:16:58 > 0:16:59The ocean is there, just depositing salt,

0:16:59 > 0:17:01and all you can do is keep wiping it away.

0:17:01 > 0:17:02That's job security.

0:17:02 > 0:17:05Ha! It is. I guess it is.

0:17:05 > 0:17:07Does a building of this sort present particular problems?

0:17:07 > 0:17:10Well, in the wind, it can...

0:17:10 > 0:17:13The wind shear can actually remove boards.

0:17:13 > 0:17:16We've got a few loose boards that rattle that we have to keep nailing

0:17:16 > 0:17:18down, and battening the hatches.

0:17:18 > 0:17:21And once we had a skylight come adrift,

0:17:21 > 0:17:23- which was a bit of a problem, so... - Oh, dear.

0:17:23 > 0:17:25What's that? Shoddy building work in the first place?

0:17:25 > 0:17:27Well, I can't say that. I think...

0:17:27 > 0:17:28Yes, you can.

0:17:28 > 0:17:30No, it wasn't.

0:17:30 > 0:17:31- Good, I'm glad to hear it. - It wasn't.

0:17:31 > 0:17:33It just was that the screws broke in the wind.

0:17:33 > 0:17:35It was a hurricane.

0:17:35 > 0:17:37I mean, basically, is this like a frontiersman thing?

0:17:37 > 0:17:40You know, out here, in the middle of nowhere, if you'll forgive me,

0:17:40 > 0:17:42small population, not so many specialists...

0:17:42 > 0:17:44- You have to basically be able to do everything?- Correct.

0:17:44 > 0:17:48We have to, as Zita says, "treat this as a ship in the ocean",

0:17:48 > 0:17:50and we have to have all our spare parts

0:17:50 > 0:17:53- and all our skill sets in place. - You're the engineer.

0:17:53 > 0:17:55You're like Scotty in Star Trek, aren't you?

0:17:55 > 0:17:56Precisely, I've been called that.

0:17:56 > 0:17:59I see the comparison. Kind of heroic, keeping it all going...

0:17:59 > 0:18:01IN SCOTTISH ACCENT: "She couldnae take any more, Jim!"

0:18:01 > 0:18:03"The dilithium crystals are failing!"

0:18:03 > 0:18:06So, when Zita says she wants you to go to warp factor seven...

0:18:06 > 0:18:08"You cannae change the laws of physics!"

0:18:08 > 0:18:13- "You can't, but you have to find a way to do it, laddie."- Yeah.

0:18:13 > 0:18:15So, Don, you haven't got that Irish twang.

0:18:15 > 0:18:17You haven't got anything Newfie about the way you speak,

0:18:17 > 0:18:19so, what, you're from the mainland, I guess?

0:18:19 > 0:18:21I'm actually from the west coast of Canada.

0:18:21 > 0:18:25I grew up in British Columbia in the mountains of the Kootenays.

0:18:25 > 0:18:29- So how did you come to be here? - Well, simply put, I fell in love.

0:18:29 > 0:18:31Not only with the island,

0:18:31 > 0:18:34but when I first came here on a visit,

0:18:34 > 0:18:36I walked into the Partridgeberry Harvest Festival

0:18:36 > 0:18:40and my eyes met with this wonderful artist, M'Liz Keefe,

0:18:40 > 0:18:43who was here, and it was love at first sight.

0:18:43 > 0:18:45I know they say it's not...but it truly happens.

0:18:47 > 0:18:50'Don and M'Liz were recently married -

0:18:50 > 0:18:52'a cause for celebration for all at the inn.'

0:18:55 > 0:18:57How long does it take to do the whole building?

0:18:57 > 0:19:00You know, you'd be surprised. Just to do this bottom section,

0:19:00 > 0:19:05like we've been going through, two guys can do it in two hours.

0:19:05 > 0:19:07As long as one of the two guys isn't me, I suppose?

0:19:07 > 0:19:09Well... Thank you, sir.

0:19:09 > 0:19:10You're welcome.

0:19:13 > 0:19:14'On remote islands like Fogo,

0:19:14 > 0:19:18'it's important to be as self-sufficient as possible -

0:19:18 > 0:19:21'not just in terms of the skills needed to live here,

0:19:21 > 0:19:23'but also when it comes to sourcing food.

0:19:27 > 0:19:29'One islander who supplies the kitchen

0:19:29 > 0:19:33'with his home-grown vegetables is Norm Foley, whose Irish ancestors

0:19:33 > 0:19:35'settled here in the 18th century.

0:19:37 > 0:19:40'But how do you grow crops in this landscape?

0:19:40 > 0:19:43'I've been told that Norm employs a weird technique

0:19:43 > 0:19:47'involving small fish called capelin.'

0:19:47 > 0:19:50One, two, three...

0:19:50 > 0:19:53Very important food around here, capelin.

0:19:53 > 0:19:57The ocean comes alive when the capelin comes in on our shore.

0:19:57 > 0:19:59The codfish would never come - only for the capelin.

0:19:59 > 0:20:01The whales...

0:20:01 > 0:20:02And you're using it as fertiliser?

0:20:02 > 0:20:05I'm using it as fertiliser.

0:20:05 > 0:20:07- And this is an ancient way?- This...

0:20:07 > 0:20:12This is the way my dad and my grandfather and so on and so forth.

0:20:12 > 0:20:16Burying fish in the garden.

0:20:16 > 0:20:17Wow.

0:20:17 > 0:20:19There's a first for everything.

0:20:19 > 0:20:21'And it works -

0:20:21 > 0:20:25'Norm produces an abundant crop of kale, carrots, potatoes,

0:20:25 > 0:20:26'and parsnips...'

0:20:26 > 0:20:28Wiggle back and forth.

0:20:28 > 0:20:30'..some of which make their way onto the plates of

0:20:30 > 0:20:31'the diners at the inn.'

0:20:31 > 0:20:34This is the real test.

0:20:34 > 0:20:35Come on, you're not...

0:20:35 > 0:20:37- I've got it! - Put some muscle into it!

0:20:37 > 0:20:39I wants to grab that some bad....

0:20:39 > 0:20:42No, you can't! It's mine.

0:20:42 > 0:20:43- Wahey!- Hey!

0:20:43 > 0:20:45Yeah! Look at that.

0:20:45 > 0:20:48- Did you ever see the like of that? - No.

0:20:50 > 0:20:54'But it's not just gardening that connects Norm to the Fogo Inn -

0:20:54 > 0:20:58'he's also a community host, looking after guests that stay there.

0:20:58 > 0:21:01'It's a venture set up by Zita that aims to showcase

0:21:01 > 0:21:04'the island's culture and its people.

0:21:04 > 0:21:07'Locals from all walks of life - the quilt makers,

0:21:07 > 0:21:12'the boat builders, even fishermen - act as island hosts...'

0:21:12 > 0:21:15You just keep the...keep the same depth, and just back and forth.

0:21:15 > 0:21:19'..befriending guests and making them feel part of the Fogo family.'

0:21:19 > 0:21:21It's like putting everything we know into something -

0:21:21 > 0:21:27believing deeply in ourselves, but hoping that others in the world

0:21:27 > 0:21:29see the value in our culture,

0:21:29 > 0:21:34see merit in what we have to tell, or say, or show.

0:21:35 > 0:21:38Someone actually asked how much we get paid to act this way,

0:21:38 > 0:21:40and we said, "No, this is just natural.

0:21:40 > 0:21:43"This is the Newfoundland way."

0:21:43 > 0:21:47It's putting yourself out there in a really, kind of, big way,

0:21:47 > 0:21:48as a community.

0:21:48 > 0:21:52For Zita, the inn is an extension of the island.

0:21:52 > 0:21:54Girls, does it get better than this?

0:21:54 > 0:21:55- No.- It doesn't?

0:21:55 > 0:21:57- No, no.- It doesn't.- No.

0:22:00 > 0:22:03But all is not quite what it seems.

0:22:03 > 0:22:06What looks like a paradise to guests on holiday is actually a community

0:22:06 > 0:22:08facing very real challenges.

0:22:09 > 0:22:13The population of Fogo has been in decline.

0:22:13 > 0:22:15There used to be 6,000 people living here,

0:22:15 > 0:22:18but in a few decades the number has fallen to below half that.

0:22:26 > 0:22:30Housekeeper Cynthia has brought her children up on the island,

0:22:30 > 0:22:33but her eldest daughter now lives miles away on the mainland...

0:22:33 > 0:22:34- Hello?- Hi.

0:22:34 > 0:22:36..and is expecting twins.

0:22:36 > 0:22:38- A basketball. - Just like a basketball.

0:22:41 > 0:22:43No matter how hard she tries,

0:22:43 > 0:22:46Cynthia can't tempt her daughter back to Fogo.

0:22:46 > 0:22:47Oh, I'd love for her to come back,

0:22:47 > 0:22:49then there'd be more people for the island,

0:22:49 > 0:22:52cos we don't want the island to be, like, just a retirement home.

0:22:52 > 0:22:55We wants the young people to come back to keep the place going,

0:22:55 > 0:22:57and that's what we need, is young people,

0:22:57 > 0:22:59because we don't want the island to die.

0:22:59 > 0:23:02We wants the island to survive and keep going.

0:23:02 > 0:23:04All righty, we've got to go back to work. We're on break.

0:23:04 > 0:23:06- Take care.- Bye.- All right. Bye.

0:23:06 > 0:23:09Simply put, not enough young families are staying on Fogo

0:23:09 > 0:23:12to raise their children.

0:23:12 > 0:23:14This island is facing an uncertain future.

0:23:16 > 0:23:18So, why would Zita build an inn here?

0:23:18 > 0:23:20And what's driving her ambition?

0:23:20 > 0:23:23She has, after all, invested millions of dollars of her own

0:23:23 > 0:23:25money into the project.

0:23:26 > 0:23:27She gets talked about an awful lot -

0:23:27 > 0:23:29she's a visionary, she's some sort of prophet -

0:23:29 > 0:23:31and there's a bit of a cult of personality.

0:23:31 > 0:23:33It's like the Wizard of Oz.

0:23:33 > 0:23:35I hope... I hope she measures up.

0:23:38 > 0:23:41The whole project, really, I suppose is, kind of,

0:23:41 > 0:23:43built around two sentences.

0:23:43 > 0:23:47"Nature and culture are the two great garments of human life" -

0:23:47 > 0:23:49EF Schumacher.

0:23:49 > 0:23:50The second sentence,

0:23:50 > 0:23:52"Every human being should get up in the morning,

0:23:52 > 0:23:56"look at the world, and try to see it as whole."

0:23:56 > 0:23:57You can taste these.

0:23:57 > 0:24:00I mean, these are absolutely edible.

0:24:00 > 0:24:02- You see, they have... - Quite a bland flavour, probably.

0:24:02 > 0:24:05- Exactly.- Like a very, very weak plum, isn't it?

0:24:05 > 0:24:06Yup.

0:24:06 > 0:24:08Is it bad luck to pick berries in a graveyard?

0:24:08 > 0:24:11'Zita is an eighth-generation islander,

0:24:11 > 0:24:14'and her life here as a child had little to do with the modern ways

0:24:14 > 0:24:16'of the mainland.'

0:24:17 > 0:24:19I grew up here at a time that we had no running water,

0:24:19 > 0:24:22and no electricity, and my parents couldn't read and write.

0:24:22 > 0:24:24I mean, you're not talking about ancient history -

0:24:24 > 0:24:27- you're talking about the late '60s, aren't you?- Exactly.

0:24:27 > 0:24:28No electricity and no running water?

0:24:28 > 0:24:32Exactly. When I was five, I got pretty sick, I had tuberculosis,

0:24:32 > 0:24:36and I had to go away, and so I spent a year as a very young child

0:24:36 > 0:24:39in a sanatorium on the other side of Newfoundland.

0:24:39 > 0:24:44And it felt like being pulled up, really, by your roots,

0:24:44 > 0:24:46and so to have been removed from the community

0:24:46 > 0:24:48at such a young age,

0:24:48 > 0:24:54I understood what the world feels like when you don't live embedded

0:24:54 > 0:24:56in a community,

0:24:56 > 0:24:59and, so, I've always, in my life, valued that more than anything.

0:25:03 > 0:25:05Not long after Zita's return,

0:25:05 > 0:25:07disaster struck the island she loved so much.

0:25:09 > 0:25:11Decades of international overfishing brought cod to the brink of

0:25:11 > 0:25:15extinction, and this simple fishing community to its knees.

0:25:17 > 0:25:20Unable to survive, many families, including Zita's,

0:25:20 > 0:25:21were forced to leave the island.

0:25:22 > 0:25:26My father had to let go of this place.

0:25:26 > 0:25:28The collapse of the fishery just about killed him,

0:25:28 > 0:25:30and moving away really did literally kill him.

0:25:30 > 0:25:33And so, they...they moved away, and...

0:25:33 > 0:25:36and I went off to university, and then he died.

0:25:37 > 0:25:41So many people left during that time that the population had almost

0:25:41 > 0:25:45no chance of recovery, until the little girl who so loved her island

0:25:45 > 0:25:47hatched a plan to rescue it.

0:25:47 > 0:25:49I've always wanted to come home,

0:25:49 > 0:25:51and so when the opportunity presented itself,

0:25:51 > 0:25:54that I was at a place in my career where I could retire,

0:25:54 > 0:25:56and I had more money than I needed for a life.

0:25:56 > 0:25:57What had you been doing?

0:25:57 > 0:26:01I was the chief financial officer of a technology company

0:26:01 > 0:26:03in the fibre optics industry.

0:26:03 > 0:26:05And how much is "more than you could need"?

0:26:05 > 0:26:07Enough to build that inn.

0:26:07 > 0:26:10That's....

0:26:10 > 0:26:12And build that inn she did,

0:26:12 > 0:26:15gifting it to the island through a charitable foundation so that all

0:26:15 > 0:26:19profits go back into local projects to create jobs

0:26:19 > 0:26:21and help the community.

0:26:21 > 0:26:25So, taking money that I had, that was more than enough,

0:26:25 > 0:26:28and bringing it home, it seemed like the obvious thing to do.

0:26:31 > 0:26:34What an amazing story - a little girl growing up with no electricity,

0:26:34 > 0:26:37no water, on a windblown, rocky outcrop -

0:26:37 > 0:26:39a place from fairy tales -

0:26:39 > 0:26:41travelling across the sea to make her fortune,

0:26:41 > 0:26:43tens of millions of dollars, by all accounts,

0:26:43 > 0:26:45and coming back to save the island of her birth,

0:26:45 > 0:26:47which was threatened with extinction.

0:26:47 > 0:26:48Just the thing that makes me worry -

0:26:48 > 0:26:51she's 58, she's not getting any younger -

0:26:51 > 0:26:55there are huge pressures on any small hotel business to succeed,

0:26:55 > 0:26:58but this place has the hopes of a whole community resting on it.

0:27:07 > 0:27:10Wherever you go around the island and the inn,

0:27:10 > 0:27:12you can't help but notice the influence of fishing.

0:27:16 > 0:27:21We have been here for centuries as people of the sea,

0:27:21 > 0:27:22as fishing people.

0:27:23 > 0:27:28And cod is, of course, the focus of most conversations at mealtime.

0:27:28 > 0:27:30- Cheek?- Yes.- Yup.

0:27:30 > 0:27:31- Tongue?- Yes.

0:27:31 > 0:27:33And there's the livers.

0:27:33 > 0:27:36I've never had cod offal for breakfast.

0:27:37 > 0:27:39- Mmm.- It looks amazing.

0:27:39 > 0:27:40That's great.

0:27:43 > 0:27:46In its heyday, cod fishing around here was worth

0:27:46 > 0:27:49over £100 million a year,

0:27:49 > 0:27:51but big boats from other countries plundered the sea,

0:27:51 > 0:27:53leaving nothing for the islanders.

0:27:54 > 0:27:59To prevent extinction a cod fishing ban became law in 1992.

0:27:59 > 0:28:01The cod survived and are now flourishing,

0:28:01 > 0:28:03and the islanders can fish for them once again,

0:28:03 > 0:28:05but with strict quotas in place.

0:28:07 > 0:28:11Several local fishermen have special licences to supply cod

0:28:11 > 0:28:15to the inn every week, such as Glen and Jerry Best.

0:28:15 > 0:28:17You can't get a better fish than cod,

0:28:17 > 0:28:20so we're proud to flaunt it in front of all the tourists

0:28:20 > 0:28:22that come and eat at the inn in the dining room.

0:28:22 > 0:28:24It's a beautiful looking fish.

0:28:24 > 0:28:25The skin is, like, a red colour,

0:28:25 > 0:28:29and then you get some that are really white and grey.

0:28:29 > 0:28:32In the dining room, guests enjoy the fillets of nearly 1,000

0:28:32 > 0:28:34sustainably-caught cod each year.

0:28:37 > 0:28:40To learn more about the returning cod industry that's nourished

0:28:40 > 0:28:42the island for generations,

0:28:42 > 0:28:45we're going to spend a morning with Glen, catching cod for the inn.

0:28:45 > 0:28:48It smells quite strongly of fish, OK?

0:28:48 > 0:28:50Just so that you know.

0:28:50 > 0:28:53So, it's only right to dress for the occasion.

0:28:53 > 0:28:56- Are you tough? - Yeah, but I don't like the cold.

0:28:56 > 0:28:57- So, no.- You're not tough.

0:29:00 > 0:29:01Like many fishermen here,

0:29:01 > 0:29:06Glen's family normally fish for lucrative crab, shrimp, and turbot,

0:29:06 > 0:29:09but his heart still belongs to the cod.

0:29:09 > 0:29:11If I eat fish for my dinner in the inn tonight,

0:29:11 > 0:29:13will it have been caught on this boat?

0:29:13 > 0:29:14Possibly it could be caught on this boat -

0:29:14 > 0:29:17might have been caught by these two hands.

0:29:17 > 0:29:20The traditional way to catch it is by jigging bait,

0:29:20 > 0:29:22like squid with a hook and line.

0:29:24 > 0:29:28- You can feel it tugging on the line. - Yeah?

0:29:28 > 0:29:29God, it's a long way down.

0:29:31 > 0:29:33- There we go.- Have you got one?

0:29:33 > 0:29:34I think so.

0:29:36 > 0:29:38Oh, wow, that's quite a big fish.

0:29:38 > 0:29:40Oh, that's a nice size.

0:29:40 > 0:29:41Look at that.

0:29:41 > 0:29:45I've literally never caught anything in my life apart from a mackerel.

0:29:46 > 0:29:49So, how much would you say that weighed, about 13 kilos?

0:29:49 > 0:29:50- No way.- No.- No way, 13 kilos.

0:29:50 > 0:29:52That looks, like, eight.

0:29:54 > 0:29:57- I'd say it's maybe six kilos.- Six?

0:29:57 > 0:30:00Six kilos, or seven, so about 15lbs.

0:30:00 > 0:30:04So, it's like both my children added together when they were born.

0:30:05 > 0:30:08I don't know what a fuss my wife made about that, it's not that big.

0:30:08 > 0:30:12Actually, it's quite heavy. Whoa!

0:30:12 > 0:30:15Hello! Here we go. This is just so much fun.

0:30:15 > 0:30:18I think it's fun because there are lots of fish and I don't know how

0:30:18 > 0:30:21much it would be if I'd been here for three days getting nothing.

0:30:21 > 0:30:23Wow, that's quite a big one, as well!

0:30:23 > 0:30:25Yours is bigger, though, isn't it?

0:30:25 > 0:30:27That is cool.

0:30:27 > 0:30:29- Wow.- There's another nice one.

0:30:29 > 0:30:32- There we go.- This is my third.

0:30:43 > 0:30:47The Best family have been fishing these waters for nearly 200 years.

0:30:47 > 0:30:49Fathers passing down the knowledge to sons.

0:30:49 > 0:30:52Are you guys going to give me a hand to get this fish cleaned up now?

0:30:52 > 0:30:55Or are you going to leave me with all of the work?

0:30:55 > 0:30:58But a shadow now hangs over the family's future.

0:30:59 > 0:31:01There you go, perfect.

0:31:01 > 0:31:04The sole male heir to the operation, Glen's son Matthew,

0:31:04 > 0:31:07has left Fogo and has no interest in fishing or carrying on the family

0:31:07 > 0:31:11business. And for Glen, the implications are devastating.

0:31:11 > 0:31:15He has been out fishing shrimp just to make some money for

0:31:15 > 0:31:19university, but he hasn't shown any interest in actually taking over the

0:31:19 > 0:31:23business. Like we've been doing it for five, six generations,

0:31:23 > 0:31:24we could be the last.

0:31:24 > 0:31:27Well, that's the end, and that would be pretty sad.

0:31:31 > 0:31:33And it's not just Glen's son -

0:31:33 > 0:31:36in recent years, many young people have moved away due to limited

0:31:36 > 0:31:38opportunities on the island.

0:31:38 > 0:31:41Zita fears that the ageing population

0:31:41 > 0:31:43being left behind could be the last.

0:31:43 > 0:31:45It's so dangerous,

0:31:45 > 0:31:48because we're holding hands with the past as hard as we can.

0:31:48 > 0:31:52People of my age, say, 50 and older.

0:31:52 > 0:31:56And we are trying to hold hands with these young people.

0:31:57 > 0:32:02We are half the population in numbers that we were 30 years ago.

0:32:02 > 0:32:06What's going to happen over the next five to ten years?

0:32:16 > 0:32:19The inn offers a huge range of job opportunities that provide an

0:32:19 > 0:32:21alternative to fishing

0:32:21 > 0:32:24which Zita hopes will stop people leaving the island.

0:32:25 > 0:32:28Sometimes I look at it and I think, "Well, it's just a little inn,

0:32:28 > 0:32:31"it's just a 29-room inn", but it holds a lot of dreams.

0:32:31 > 0:32:34And fulfilling these dreams by making a success of the inn

0:32:34 > 0:32:37is far from easy.

0:32:37 > 0:32:40A successful hotel depends on attention to detail.

0:32:40 > 0:32:44How are we doing with our people in room 29, with the baby?

0:32:44 > 0:32:46I talked to them last night.

0:32:46 > 0:32:48She's a vegetarian, but eats chicken.

0:32:48 > 0:32:50Did we sort out how we're getting

0:32:50 > 0:32:53- those people at two o'clock in the morning?- I don't know.

0:32:56 > 0:32:59It doesn't take much to lose your way.

0:32:59 > 0:33:04When you lose your way a little bit it has a tendency to build.

0:33:04 > 0:33:08And then if that takes hold then we'll lose our confidence.

0:33:08 > 0:33:12Details, details, details, details, details.

0:33:12 > 0:33:15Zita takes guest comments very seriously

0:33:15 > 0:33:18and there's been a complaint about the food.

0:33:18 > 0:33:20Oh, well, there were several issues with the breakfast.

0:33:20 > 0:33:22One problem is the bread's all wrong.

0:33:22 > 0:33:26You can't toast sourdough bread because it just turns into a weapon.

0:33:26 > 0:33:33And the potatoes that were served on the plate were placed so haphazardly

0:33:33 > 0:33:37that there was no indication of love in the way they were placed.

0:33:37 > 0:33:41Every time you put something down that's an opportunity to show a

0:33:41 > 0:33:43little extra care. No care was shown.

0:33:43 > 0:33:46They looked like they were thrown at the plate.

0:33:46 > 0:33:48And the bacon looked like it was in a microwave,

0:33:48 > 0:33:50which I know it wasn't in a microwave,

0:33:50 > 0:33:52because there's no microwave here at the inn.

0:33:52 > 0:33:55So, I don't know how you make that microwave effect.

0:33:55 > 0:33:57Ah, look, we have some more blue sky coming.

0:33:59 > 0:34:01Can you come to ops tomorrow morning?

0:34:01 > 0:34:03I had a whole bunch of breakfast comments.

0:34:03 > 0:34:06- Yes, do you want to talk about that now?- Yes, absolutely.

0:34:06 > 0:34:09Number one thing is we have to come up with a different toast.

0:34:09 > 0:34:11Sourdough doesn't toast.

0:34:11 > 0:34:15- Is it just too much?- It's too hard, like, it's like a weapon.

0:34:15 > 0:34:20Like, it hurts. And really we should have a classic

0:34:20 > 0:34:23white Newfoundland toast.

0:34:23 > 0:34:25Yes, absolutely.

0:34:28 > 0:34:32When you're new to the exclusive hotel business, the slightest

0:34:32 > 0:34:35mistake can hurt, and with so much resting on the inn

0:34:35 > 0:34:37it just can't afford to lose its way.

0:34:37 > 0:34:42So, Zita's asked locally born pastry chef Marlene Hancock to help improve

0:34:42 > 0:34:47the breakfasts. Marlene's had an idea to create a new bread with an

0:34:47 > 0:34:50ingredient found washed up on the shore -

0:34:50 > 0:34:52a chunk of iceberg.

0:34:53 > 0:34:55This is iceberg ice.

0:34:55 > 0:35:00Ice that came down from way up north, thousands of years old.

0:35:00 > 0:35:03You'd think it would taste salty because it's floating in

0:35:03 > 0:35:05the salt water and the sea,

0:35:05 > 0:35:08but it's not, it's very fresh water, very pure water.

0:35:08 > 0:35:11Marlene's also adding seaweed.

0:35:11 > 0:35:15This is the seaweed that actually washed up on the shore.

0:35:17 > 0:35:21So, hopefully that's OK, if not, if I need more I'll add more.

0:35:21 > 0:35:23And lastly, she puts in Fogo sea salt.

0:35:25 > 0:35:28Natural salt right from the sea behind us.

0:35:28 > 0:35:30A little bit of this, a little bit of that,

0:35:30 > 0:35:34it's going to be a surprise, I guess.

0:35:34 > 0:35:38It's nice when people try your product and say, "That is really good,"

0:35:38 > 0:35:41it makes you feel good. It makes your job worthwhile.

0:35:41 > 0:35:44BEEPING

0:35:56 > 0:36:00But to have any chance of reaching the dining room, all food must

0:36:00 > 0:36:02first pass Zita's taste test.

0:36:13 > 0:36:14I love it.

0:36:15 > 0:36:18- Good.- I really love it. You know,

0:36:18 > 0:36:22this could be the only iceberg bread in the world.

0:36:22 > 0:36:27That is like taking Fogo Island and putting it inside the bread.

0:36:27 > 0:36:30I think, Marlene, you are 90% of the way there.

0:36:30 > 0:36:34The only thing you have to change is bring on the seaweed.

0:36:34 > 0:36:36- Up the seaweed?- Up the seaweed. - Yeah, I can do that.

0:36:36 > 0:36:38I think it's a winner.

0:36:38 > 0:36:40Marlene.

0:36:40 > 0:36:42- MARLENE LAUGHS - It's so good.

0:36:42 > 0:36:45THEY CHATTER AND LAUGH

0:36:52 > 0:36:55The ancestors of housekeeping sisters Cynthia and Lori

0:36:55 > 0:36:57settled on Fogo in the 19th century.

0:36:57 > 0:37:00Theirs is one of many families for whom

0:37:00 > 0:37:02the inn represents hope for a secure future.

0:37:05 > 0:37:08They've invited me round to meet the clan and get a deeper understanding

0:37:08 > 0:37:11of what makes family life so special here on Fogo.

0:37:15 > 0:37:18It's very kind of them. I don't really know what to expect.

0:37:18 > 0:37:21I'm just imagining it'll be a lot of good, clean fun.

0:37:21 > 0:37:22LAUGHTER

0:37:24 > 0:37:27Giles, just in time for a game of cards.

0:37:27 > 0:37:29This is Mom, Marie.

0:37:29 > 0:37:31- Hi, Marie, nice to meet you. - This is sister Lori.

0:37:31 > 0:37:33Your sister? Your mom?

0:37:33 > 0:37:35Yes. My sister, Sharon.

0:37:35 > 0:37:37- Sister Sharon.- Sister Nancy.

0:37:37 > 0:37:40- You're having me on?- No, I'm not!

0:37:40 > 0:37:41- Sister Bella.- Hi.

0:37:41 > 0:37:43THEY LAUGH

0:37:43 > 0:37:46- Work sister Colleen. - Work sister, honorary sister.

0:37:46 > 0:37:48I introduced you, do you know everyone's name?

0:37:48 > 0:37:51Yes, that's Mom,

0:37:51 > 0:37:56sister, sister, sister, and work sister Mary.

0:37:56 > 0:37:59I do know all the kings of England from 1066.

0:37:59 > 0:38:02Sharon and Nancy.

0:38:02 > 0:38:05Is it normal that there are so many of you altogether?

0:38:05 > 0:38:08Is that a normal Newfoundland family?

0:38:08 > 0:38:10Is Newfoundland just three families, or something?

0:38:10 > 0:38:12Everyone is a brother and sister.

0:38:12 > 0:38:16- Is it like Greece?- Years ago that was the thing, big families,

0:38:16 > 0:38:18but not so much these days.

0:38:18 > 0:38:20When we grew up there were kids everywhere.

0:38:20 > 0:38:2212 in our family.

0:38:22 > 0:38:23- She got 12.- You're one of 12?

0:38:23 > 0:38:26Seven boys and five girls, yes.

0:38:26 > 0:38:29I don't know whether I want to ask, "Why did they do that?"

0:38:29 > 0:38:31or, "Why did they stop?"

0:38:31 > 0:38:33Cold, lonely winters.

0:38:33 > 0:38:36You weren't expected to survive the winters?

0:38:36 > 0:38:38What happened when all of these ones lived?

0:38:38 > 0:38:41Was the plan, were you are only meant to end up with two or three?

0:38:41 > 0:38:42And then life expectancy went up.

0:38:42 > 0:38:45And here you all are.

0:38:45 > 0:38:48So, you play cards together every night?

0:38:48 > 0:38:51No, like, once a week we usually get together down at Mom's.

0:38:51 > 0:38:54Usually on a Monday night or a Tuesday night.

0:38:54 > 0:38:57Four of these sisters work at the inn.

0:38:57 > 0:39:01The alternatives would be the local fish plant or life on the mainland.

0:39:01 > 0:39:05So, I can really see how the inn is holding the community together.

0:39:05 > 0:39:07What on earth are you drinking?

0:39:07 > 0:39:09Did you put a leprechaun in a blender?

0:39:09 > 0:39:11What on earth is that?

0:39:11 > 0:39:12Taste it.

0:39:12 > 0:39:15THEY LAUGH

0:39:20 > 0:39:24It's bubble gum flavour mouthwash.

0:39:24 > 0:39:27It's a great honour being treated as one of the girls,

0:39:27 > 0:39:30but before I know what's hit me Cynthia has shanghaied me into a

0:39:30 > 0:39:32traditional rowing race.

0:39:32 > 0:39:34So, Giles, do you row a punt?

0:39:36 > 0:39:37I beg your pardon.

0:39:37 > 0:39:40- Do I what a what?- Row a punt.

0:39:40 > 0:39:43- I don't.- You don't, so, do you know what I mean when I say row a punt?

0:39:43 > 0:39:46I know punting, I know about a punt, you do that with a stick and a pole.

0:39:46 > 0:39:50No, no, this is with two paddles, and it's, like, two in a...

0:39:50 > 0:39:53This is rowing?

0:39:53 > 0:39:56Yes. But are you good, like, are you strong?

0:39:56 > 0:39:59I'm not sure about this punting business.

0:40:02 > 0:40:05And not only am I expected to row a boat like a local,

0:40:05 > 0:40:08now I'm being pressured into becoming a local

0:40:08 > 0:40:11with a bizarre initiation ceremony.

0:40:11 > 0:40:15So, the first thing you have to do is repeat what I say exactly.

0:40:19 > 0:40:21That's not too bad, actually.

0:40:21 > 0:40:24Then I will give you something to taste.

0:40:24 > 0:40:29So, this is supposed to cleanse your body from the inside out,

0:40:29 > 0:40:31and your throat, and your eyes, and your soul.

0:40:31 > 0:40:36They say it's really bad, but it's not that bad.

0:40:36 > 0:40:37They say the same about you.

0:40:37 > 0:40:39THEY LAUGH

0:40:39 > 0:40:41- Down the hatch! - He's a good old sport.

0:40:41 > 0:40:44- Another one?- Yeah.

0:40:46 > 0:40:49So, then, just before you become an official Newfoundlander,

0:40:49 > 0:40:52you've got to do one more thing.

0:40:52 > 0:40:54This is codfish.

0:40:54 > 0:40:58And you have to adore him and kiss him right on the mouth.

0:40:58 > 0:41:01- Man alive!- No, it's all right, I cut the tongue out,

0:41:01 > 0:41:02so you won't get the tongue.

0:41:02 > 0:41:04Pucker up, pucker up, baby.

0:41:04 > 0:41:06THEY LAUGH

0:41:10 > 0:41:12Thank you very much.

0:41:12 > 0:41:13You're welcome. Give us a hug.

0:41:16 > 0:41:19Allow me to say, ladies, time to shut up and deal the cards.

0:41:19 > 0:41:20ALL: All right!

0:41:20 > 0:41:22Bring it on.

0:41:31 > 0:41:34As part of the mission to get the island thriving,

0:41:34 > 0:41:38an annual rowing race takes place using local boats called punts.

0:41:40 > 0:41:43It's normally a brutal four-hour event held in open water for

0:41:43 > 0:41:45die-hard locals.

0:41:45 > 0:41:47- Giles, you're in the back. - OK, do I go in first?

0:41:47 > 0:41:50Right here first, yeah, watch, it could be slippery.

0:41:50 > 0:41:55But Cynthia assures me that this morning's mixed doubles race will be a far more sedate affair.

0:41:56 > 0:41:58I hope you're not all talk, because I've got no idea how to do this.

0:41:58 > 0:42:01No, I'm going to show you, and you're going to win.

0:42:01 > 0:42:04Today is a trial event for locals

0:42:04 > 0:42:06and any interested guests at the inn.

0:42:06 > 0:42:08So novices like me are welcome.

0:42:08 > 0:42:10Stroke.

0:42:10 > 0:42:14And I've jumped at the chance to partner with my new buddy, Norm.

0:42:14 > 0:42:18- Not bad.- Yeah, not bad. You'll do.

0:42:20 > 0:42:24Every single punt taking part has been built here on Fogo

0:42:24 > 0:42:26in the traditional way.

0:42:26 > 0:42:30This boat is for Zita, I hope she's going to win this race

0:42:30 > 0:42:32cos my neck is on the line.

0:42:45 > 0:42:49For generations, these punts have represented survival.

0:42:50 > 0:42:53The only means of catching food to feed your family.

0:42:56 > 0:43:00And in all that time, islanders have gained something of a reputation.

0:43:00 > 0:43:04Winston Churchill himself said Newfoundlanders are the best small

0:43:04 > 0:43:08- boatsmen in the world.- Come on, Cynth, put some beef into it.

0:43:08 > 0:43:09We'll get them.

0:43:09 > 0:43:11SHE LAUGHS

0:43:11 > 0:43:14The race is a way of preserving these historic boats and celebrating

0:43:14 > 0:43:17the resourcefulness of the people who crafted them.

0:43:17 > 0:43:20Go, Norm.

0:43:20 > 0:43:22SHE CHEERS

0:43:22 > 0:43:25But by the looks of it the most important thing of all around here

0:43:25 > 0:43:29- seems to be winning. - Beating Giles by miles. Look.

0:43:32 > 0:43:33That's a bit annoying.

0:43:33 > 0:43:36He'll have an excuse, I'm sure.

0:43:36 > 0:43:39Is my rope on right on there?

0:43:39 > 0:43:41Cynthia, is that on right?

0:43:41 > 0:43:43That's why I can't make it move.

0:43:47 > 0:43:49It looks like we have a winner.

0:43:50 > 0:43:52It's Zita.

0:43:52 > 0:43:54APPLAUSE

0:43:54 > 0:43:56Oh, my word!

0:43:56 > 0:43:59And Norm and I come a respectable fourth.

0:43:59 > 0:44:00Yay!

0:44:00 > 0:44:03Congratulations, Monica.

0:44:03 > 0:44:05But what about Giles?

0:44:05 > 0:44:08Cynthia and Giles, fifth placed team.

0:44:08 > 0:44:10Give us a hug.

0:44:10 > 0:44:13What was that, fifth place?

0:44:13 > 0:44:16Yeah, well, we didn't cheat, because I didn't think it was in the spirit.

0:44:20 > 0:44:23Fun and games over, Zita wants to show me a poignant reason

0:44:23 > 0:44:26why it's so important the inn is a success.

0:44:28 > 0:44:31It sort of is in a devotional pose.

0:44:31 > 0:44:33And it looks right at Little Fogo Islands,

0:44:33 > 0:44:36which you can see in the distance.

0:44:36 > 0:44:40They form, kind of, a natural reef that protects big Fogo Island

0:44:40 > 0:44:42from the worst of the North Atlantic.

0:44:44 > 0:44:47Six miles off the northern tip of Fogo, lie tiny rocks,

0:44:47 > 0:44:49called Little Fogo Islands.

0:44:51 > 0:44:53Being even closer to the prize cod fishing grounds,

0:44:53 > 0:44:56this is where Europeans first settled in the 18th century.

0:44:58 > 0:45:03At one time, 375 people called this place their permanent home.

0:45:06 > 0:45:08But when the fishing collapsed,

0:45:08 > 0:45:11the community could no longer survive and every single family

0:45:11 > 0:45:13was forced to abandon the island.

0:45:18 > 0:45:20The pain of that is still with us.

0:45:20 > 0:45:22And the people who lived there for centuries,

0:45:22 > 0:45:24you still feel them out there.

0:45:24 > 0:45:26There but for the grace of God goes big Fogo island,

0:45:26 > 0:45:30and so it's kind of here that we want to keep our stand,

0:45:30 > 0:45:33and that building, that's what it's trying to do.

0:45:34 > 0:45:36So, without the inn, Fogo could go the same way.

0:45:38 > 0:45:41Without the inn, it would be a lot harder to hold on.

0:45:54 > 0:45:57I'm going to meet someone whose situation highlights the need

0:45:57 > 0:45:59for the inn to be a success.

0:46:00 > 0:46:05Glen Best's son, Matthew, is back from university for a rare visit.

0:46:05 > 0:46:08Perhaps he can tell me why some of the younger generation are turning

0:46:08 > 0:46:11their backs on lucrative island industries such as fishing.

0:46:11 > 0:46:14Do you have any friends who are going into fishing?

0:46:14 > 0:46:16No, not around my age, no, it's just not something...

0:46:16 > 0:46:19I don't know, I guess things are changing.

0:46:19 > 0:46:21I wouldn't be able to name anyone on the island

0:46:21 > 0:46:23who's my age who's going fishing.

0:46:23 > 0:46:26- No-one on the island? - Not, not... No.

0:46:26 > 0:46:29It seems to me you've got a thing where the fish are coming back

0:46:29 > 0:46:31but the fishermen are disappearing.

0:46:31 > 0:46:32It's pretty ironic, isn't it?

0:46:32 > 0:46:35You've hit the nail on the head. That's the case.

0:46:35 > 0:46:37Is the weight of history actually off-putting?

0:46:37 > 0:46:40Instead of being a continuity that you want to take up,

0:46:40 > 0:46:42is it actually a thing that makes it feel like a pressure?

0:46:42 > 0:46:45I don't know if it was ever something that I really...

0:46:45 > 0:46:47seemed like me, do you know what I mean?

0:46:47 > 0:46:49Like, I don't feel like a fisherman.

0:46:51 > 0:46:57It's kind of sad, obviously, cos it is a legacy, like you say, but,

0:46:57 > 0:46:58you know, that's life.

0:47:01 > 0:47:03Yeah, there you go.

0:47:03 > 0:47:04So, it's a bit, it's a bit...

0:47:06 > 0:47:08..emotional, I'd say.

0:47:12 > 0:47:14You know, I didn't want to be a writer,

0:47:14 > 0:47:15I wanted to do all sorts of other things,

0:47:15 > 0:47:18and I didn't want to be a journalist, or present TV shows,

0:47:18 > 0:47:20because that was what my dad did, and that seemed a bit pointless.

0:47:20 > 0:47:24And then in my 20s, I started to think, "Maybe it's all right."

0:47:24 > 0:47:26So, I'm not saying that it's going to happen,

0:47:26 > 0:47:29but he does his engineering and he goes and builds aeroplanes

0:47:29 > 0:47:31and rockets and goes to the moon or whatever,

0:47:31 > 0:47:32and then in ten years' time he thinks,

0:47:32 > 0:47:35"I'd quite like to go home," cos he clearly feels strongly about it.

0:47:35 > 0:47:38"Maybe I want to go home and fish off the point."

0:47:38 > 0:47:40It might happen.

0:47:40 > 0:47:42- Give me some notice, will you? - I will.

0:47:47 > 0:47:50I don't think Matthew and Glen have conversations like that very often.

0:47:50 > 0:47:51I don't think they talk about it.

0:47:51 > 0:47:53It's not thought through, it's raw emotion.

0:47:55 > 0:47:57And I think of Zita, of the same generation as Glen,

0:47:57 > 0:48:00trying to keep this island alive, trying to prop it up.

0:48:00 > 0:48:01They're spinning plates -

0:48:01 > 0:48:04"We've got to save the fishermen, we've got to save the people."

0:48:04 > 0:48:06Who knows whether they can keep it up?

0:48:18 > 0:48:21Every October, the Partridgeberry Festival

0:48:21 > 0:48:23celebrates the island's variety of wild berries.

0:48:27 > 0:48:30This year's event was one of the most memorable.

0:48:30 > 0:48:32A few days ago, it hosted the wedding ceremony

0:48:32 > 0:48:37of the inn's maintenance man, Don Paul, and his bride M'Liz.

0:48:37 > 0:48:41I have a little bit of butterflies, but I'm so excited and happy.

0:48:43 > 0:48:46Now, what do you think, how do I look?

0:48:46 > 0:48:48For Zita, the inn and the island's future

0:48:48 > 0:48:52must include more outsiders like Don and M'Liz.

0:48:52 > 0:48:56It's not always easy to convince someone who lives in the big city

0:48:56 > 0:48:59somewhere that they should move to this little island

0:48:59 > 0:49:00that's far away from far away.

0:49:00 > 0:49:03So, when someone chooses to make their home here, you know,

0:49:03 > 0:49:07in some ways it's like an endorsement of us

0:49:07 > 0:49:11and sort of affirms the things that we see in our place.

0:49:11 > 0:49:13That is very moving.

0:49:15 > 0:49:19Love is patient, love is kind, love is not envious, or boastful,

0:49:19 > 0:49:21or arrogant, or rude.

0:49:21 > 0:49:22Yes, I do.

0:49:22 > 0:49:24I do.

0:49:26 > 0:49:29Around here, there's only one way to celebrate.

0:49:29 > 0:49:31I love being married to M'Liz.

0:49:39 > 0:49:42Zita wants to celebrate the fact that Don and M'Liz have decided

0:49:42 > 0:49:43to make Fogo their future,

0:49:43 > 0:49:45and that they're bumping up the island's population.

0:49:47 > 0:49:49It's vital to recognise the commitment made by outsiders,

0:49:49 > 0:49:52as living and working in such a remote place isn't for everyone.

0:49:57 > 0:50:00In the kitchen, I learn that for Chef Tim working here

0:50:00 > 0:50:02means living far from his young son.

0:50:03 > 0:50:04I get to FaceTime.

0:50:05 > 0:50:07- You FaceTime?- Yeah.

0:50:07 > 0:50:09When did you last see your boy?

0:50:09 > 0:50:12Last... In the spring.

0:50:13 > 0:50:15- This spring.- This past spring.

0:50:15 > 0:50:19- Wow.- So, once a year, twice a year, maybe.- Yeah.

0:50:20 > 0:50:23Chef Ian is also separated.

0:50:23 > 0:50:27She's no longer here, but I still am, because I love it here.

0:50:27 > 0:50:30- Where is she? - She has moved back to Alberta,

0:50:30 > 0:50:34so we have gone our separate ways, and this place is my new life.

0:50:34 > 0:50:38Oh. I'm sorry about that.

0:50:38 > 0:50:40If you're that passionate about something,

0:50:40 > 0:50:41you're going to give it your all.

0:50:43 > 0:50:44I've done something similar myself.

0:50:44 > 0:50:47I left New Zealand, I've left family,

0:50:47 > 0:50:49and I'm always homesick for them.

0:50:49 > 0:50:51People say, "Why don't you just go back?"

0:50:51 > 0:50:54It's because you're pursuing something that you love.

0:50:55 > 0:50:58For Zita, it's vital to make a big fuss of people

0:50:58 > 0:51:01when they choose this island to be their permanent home -

0:51:01 > 0:51:04like throwing what islanders call a scoff, or feast,

0:51:04 > 0:51:06in the dining room at the inn.

0:51:09 > 0:51:13A scoff is a tricky thing to pull off because it has this kind of

0:51:13 > 0:51:15unpredictable nature to it.

0:51:15 > 0:51:19But we still want to do it in a way that has the precision that we have

0:51:19 > 0:51:22fought so hard to accomplish.

0:51:22 > 0:51:25- Yes, this one needs turning around. - One, two, three.

0:51:27 > 0:51:30It's only right that Giles and I pitch in to help with preparations.

0:51:32 > 0:51:36Marlene and I are making jam tarts with spiced molasses pastry.

0:51:39 > 0:51:40It smells amazing.

0:51:40 > 0:51:42Clove, ginger.

0:51:42 > 0:51:45And the molasses, of course, which I'm a big fan of.

0:51:45 > 0:51:47- And there's cinnamon. - Cinnamon, as well.

0:51:49 > 0:51:52And it's only fitting that we use partridgeberries

0:51:52 > 0:51:54picked right in front of the inn.

0:51:57 > 0:52:00- I like that. - You're doing really well.

0:52:00 > 0:52:01Not bad for a mainlander.

0:52:01 > 0:52:03"Not bad for a mainlander?"

0:52:03 > 0:52:05That's what I am, a mainlander?

0:52:07 > 0:52:11And for the bride and groom, two personalised tarts.

0:52:11 > 0:52:15After all, it is a scoff in honour of Don and M'Liz.

0:52:15 > 0:52:17Made with love, there you go.

0:52:21 > 0:52:24The scoff is a great chance for the kitchen to impress

0:52:24 > 0:52:27with some of the more acquired tastes found on the island.

0:52:28 > 0:52:31The groom's favourite food is goat,

0:52:31 > 0:52:34so Chef Tim is picking one up from his local supplier.

0:52:35 > 0:52:39All of these goats have been able to live outside and see the sun.

0:52:39 > 0:52:42People have taken good care of them.

0:52:42 > 0:52:44And when they are killed, they're going to be killed with respect.

0:52:44 > 0:52:47I would rather we were serving these cows, though.

0:52:48 > 0:52:50Oh, there we go!

0:52:50 > 0:52:52It looks like the cow heard that.

0:52:52 > 0:52:54CREW LAUGH

0:53:18 > 0:53:21The kitchen has pulled out all the stops

0:53:21 > 0:53:24to put all things Fogo on the menu.

0:53:24 > 0:53:27This is your beautiful goat.

0:53:27 > 0:53:29We've got a goat.

0:53:29 > 0:53:33- Enjoy.- Thank you, thank you very much.

0:53:33 > 0:53:36In keeping with Zita's inclusive sense of hospitality,

0:53:36 > 0:53:41the scoff is not only for locals, but all guests staying at the inn.

0:53:41 > 0:53:44You know, we just got in today, and we were asked,

0:53:44 > 0:53:47just out of the blue, to attend a wedding.

0:53:47 > 0:53:52You just mingle. I mean, there's nobody that you don't talk to,

0:53:52 > 0:53:55there's nobody you don't know within five minutes of being in here.

0:53:55 > 0:53:58You know, that's why you feel part of the family here,

0:53:58 > 0:54:02coming to a wedding where it seems so intimate, right?

0:54:02 > 0:54:06And they don't know us from anything. And, so, it is so neat.

0:54:06 > 0:54:07It's spectacular, yeah.

0:54:07 > 0:54:10- Congratulations.- Thank you, Marlene.

0:54:10 > 0:54:12Here are a couple of molasses jam tarts that

0:54:12 > 0:54:14Monica and I made for you both.

0:54:14 > 0:54:16- Enjoy.- Thank you so much, Marlene.

0:54:16 > 0:54:19While the party carries on, we're being ushered upstairs

0:54:19 > 0:54:24and pressed into joining what seems to be some sort of freakish cult.

0:54:24 > 0:54:26This is not going to hurt a bit, OK?

0:54:30 > 0:54:32Whatever we can... Claire?

0:54:32 > 0:54:35This is a custom called mummering.

0:54:35 > 0:54:39It was brought here in the 1820s from England and Ireland.

0:54:39 > 0:54:42Traditionally, mummers would turn up uninvited and in disguise

0:54:42 > 0:54:44to get a party started.

0:54:49 > 0:54:52I can't believe I've spent time on this island, getting to know

0:54:52 > 0:54:54these people, their lives and their hopes and their fears,

0:54:54 > 0:54:57and the good things and the bad things, and we present them

0:54:57 > 0:55:01to the world as this unique and exciting, living community...

0:55:01 > 0:55:04and they've just revealed themselves to be a complete bunch of wackos.

0:55:05 > 0:55:09I hope I'm not complicit in the mockery of an entire island.

0:55:09 > 0:55:11I promise you, I promise you this was their idea.

0:55:14 > 0:55:17I'm going to have nightmares about this for the rest of my life.

0:55:17 > 0:55:20TRADITIONAL MUSIC PLAYS

0:55:39 > 0:55:41Tradition dictates that the host of the party

0:55:41 > 0:55:44must guess the identities of the mummers.

0:55:44 > 0:55:46Now, who's this one?

0:55:46 > 0:55:49Who is this one? I don't know about this one.

0:55:49 > 0:55:50It's a funny one.

0:55:50 > 0:55:51I'm Monica.

0:55:56 > 0:55:59It is a lot of fun.

0:55:59 > 0:56:01Possibly more fun than I expected.

0:56:01 > 0:56:05I believe I've made some great friends for life.

0:56:05 > 0:56:06Cheers.

0:56:06 > 0:56:09The fact is that it isn't really just a hotel.

0:56:09 > 0:56:12The inn is Fogo Island, and Fogo Island is the inn.

0:56:12 > 0:56:14When you come and stay here, it's more even

0:56:14 > 0:56:16than a window on a society,

0:56:16 > 0:56:18it's like the looking glass in Alice Through the Looking Glass.

0:56:18 > 0:56:22You pass through it and you become a fisherman, or a mummer, or a cook.

0:56:22 > 0:56:25It's an experience unlike any I've ever had.

0:56:30 > 0:56:33# I wanna go back

0:56:33 > 0:56:37# When it's capelin time again... #

0:56:37 > 0:56:41And around here, celebrations always end with a traditional song

0:56:41 > 0:56:43about those little fish called capelin.

0:56:45 > 0:56:48# ..And here again

0:56:48 > 0:56:53# The lonely seagulls cry

0:56:53 > 0:56:56# Oh, take me home

0:56:56 > 0:57:01# Once more before I die... #

0:57:04 > 0:57:07- You've been busy lately, huh? - You have, too!

0:57:07 > 0:57:08It's time to leave.

0:57:08 > 0:57:12But before we do, the inn has one last surprise up its sleeve.

0:57:12 > 0:57:19- Hello.- Hi.- This is Jake Daniel, and this is Luke Wilson.

0:57:19 > 0:57:21Oh, my God,

0:57:21 > 0:57:23they're beautiful.

0:57:23 > 0:57:24Over on the mainland,

0:57:24 > 0:57:27Cynthia's daughter has given birth to twin boys.

0:57:27 > 0:57:29It's been lovely being introduced to Jake and Luke,

0:57:29 > 0:57:32and I'm reminded that I have to go to see my babies,

0:57:32 > 0:57:34and I'll see you again one day soon.

0:57:34 > 0:57:36- Someday, hopefully, OK. - Bye.- Goodbye.

0:57:38 > 0:57:41The Fogo Island Inn has had grandchildren.

0:57:41 > 0:57:43It's amazing how involved everybody is.

0:57:43 > 0:57:45It's a very lovely feeling.

0:57:45 > 0:57:48But that's only part one of the job done.

0:57:48 > 0:57:50The next thing is to get them to come and live here.

0:57:52 > 0:57:56It's extraordinary that something as simple as a hotel can come to

0:57:56 > 0:57:59symbolise the hopes of a community and its distinctive way of life.

0:58:01 > 0:58:05I want to make sure that I do what I can

0:58:05 > 0:58:08to hold on to who we are and remain relevant,

0:58:08 > 0:58:09doing something that helps gives us

0:58:09 > 0:58:11a shot at another 100 years here.