0:00:02 > 0:00:04Scotland is changing and growing.
0:00:04 > 0:00:08More than five million people now live and work here,
0:00:08 > 0:00:12from the big cities to the Highlands and Islands.
0:00:12 > 0:00:13You think it is just a quiet backwater
0:00:13 > 0:00:16where practically nothing goes on, but it's not.
0:00:16 > 0:00:18People work very, very hard to make a living.
0:00:18 > 0:00:20It's not easy to make a living out here.
0:00:20 > 0:00:24Life in the wilderness is being transformed by technology.
0:00:24 > 0:00:27Far-flung communities are becoming better connected.
0:00:27 > 0:00:32I've no idea how to fly this thing, but I've got an app!
0:00:32 > 0:00:34And across Scotland, people are finding new ways
0:00:34 > 0:00:36to create their ideal home.
0:00:36 > 0:00:39I'm the only one who lives in a boat in my class.
0:00:41 > 0:00:43So, how does modern Scotland work?
0:00:43 > 0:00:47How does Scotland's infrastructure keep the country moving?
0:00:48 > 0:00:52How are Scotland's remotest communities facing the future?
0:00:52 > 0:00:57And how is home life in Scotland changing in the 21st century?
0:00:57 > 0:01:00This series goes to the heart of contemporary Scottish life
0:01:00 > 0:01:03to reveal how Scotland works.
0:01:08 > 0:01:11Scotland has some of the most remote,
0:01:11 > 0:01:14sparsely populated regions in Europe.
0:01:14 > 0:01:16Its mountains, lochs and forests
0:01:16 > 0:01:19are home to an abundance of wildlife.
0:01:19 > 0:01:2312,000 miles of coast teem with sea birds and fish.
0:01:23 > 0:01:26But Scotland's far-flung, rural places
0:01:26 > 0:01:28are also home to another species.
0:01:28 > 0:01:29People.
0:01:29 > 0:01:30HORN BLOWS
0:01:30 > 0:01:32And for the first time in decades,
0:01:32 > 0:01:36the population of the Highlands and Islands is actually growing.
0:01:36 > 0:01:40So, how is life in Scotland's remotest communities changing
0:01:40 > 0:01:41in the 21st century?
0:01:43 > 0:01:46What kind of jobs and industries are sustaining people here?
0:01:47 > 0:01:49And what does the future hold?
0:01:53 > 0:01:56This is Scotland The Wild.
0:02:03 > 0:02:08Lying on Scotland's most northerly coast, Orkney is a land apart.
0:02:09 > 0:02:11This wild but fertile archipelago,
0:02:11 > 0:02:14made up of more than 70 separate islands,
0:02:14 > 0:02:16has been inhabited since the Stone Age.
0:02:19 > 0:02:24Throughout the 20th century, Orkney's population was in decline,
0:02:24 > 0:02:26but today it's actually growing faster
0:02:26 > 0:02:29than any other Scottish island community,
0:02:29 > 0:02:33partly thanks to incomers who are choosing to make their homes here.
0:02:34 > 0:02:37Some are coming up with innovative ways to make a living
0:02:37 > 0:02:40from Orkney's most important asset - the sea.
0:02:46 > 0:02:51Moored among the trawlers here in Stromness is an unusual new vessel.
0:02:51 > 0:02:54The Huskyan is a purpose-built dive boat,
0:02:54 > 0:02:57specifically designed for sub-aqua tourism.
0:02:57 > 0:03:00Her captain and owner is professional diving guide Emily Turton.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04I've been skipping a dive boat now for 12 years.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08I came to Orkney in 2003 for a week's diving holiday
0:03:08 > 0:03:09and I haven't gone home yet.
0:03:09 > 0:03:12SHE LAUGHS
0:03:12 > 0:03:14Emily is part of the new wave of incomers that has been
0:03:14 > 0:03:16helping Orkney to grow.
0:03:16 > 0:03:20Today, almost 22,000 people live and work here.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23These chilly waters might not seem the obvious choice
0:03:23 > 0:03:25for a diving holiday,
0:03:25 > 0:03:29but Emily's business is flourishing thanks to an accident of history.
0:03:30 > 0:03:33Because this is no ordinary stretch of water -
0:03:33 > 0:03:35it's Scapa Flow.
0:03:35 > 0:03:37A vast natural harbour,
0:03:37 > 0:03:42sheltered from the North Atlantic by a circle of islands.
0:03:42 > 0:03:45Hidden beneath its waves are some of the most extraordinary
0:03:45 > 0:03:47marine relics in the UK.
0:03:49 > 0:03:53The wrecks of seven German battleships from World War I,
0:03:53 > 0:03:57which were deliberately sunk here in 1919 by their commander
0:03:57 > 0:03:59after being captured by the Allies.
0:04:03 > 0:04:07Every year, thousands of divers from across the world come to explore
0:04:07 > 0:04:09these haunting sights.
0:04:09 > 0:04:11Are you ready, Archie?
0:04:14 > 0:04:16OK, guys. Off you go!
0:04:40 > 0:04:44The wrecked ships, spread far and wide across the seabed,
0:04:44 > 0:04:48offer these visitors a unique perspective on our history.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54The wrecks underwater are quite a special place to me.
0:04:54 > 0:04:56They are some of the only First World War wrecks
0:04:56 > 0:04:57that you can dive on
0:04:57 > 0:05:00in an as accessible place as Scapa Flow is.
0:05:00 > 0:05:03They've very big - they're quite often
0:05:03 > 0:05:05some of the biggest things people have seen underwater.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09They range from about 5,000 tonnes, up to about 26,000 tonnes.
0:05:12 > 0:05:14Now, the conditions visibility-wise -
0:05:14 > 0:05:16on average, visibility is eight to ten metres.
0:05:16 > 0:05:19So, if you have a ship that's 155 metres long
0:05:19 > 0:05:21it unfolds ten metres at a time
0:05:21 > 0:05:24and you're never getting a full picture,
0:05:24 > 0:05:25you have to piece them together.
0:05:25 > 0:05:28So, they have giant big guns. Gun turrets that weigh 600 tonnes.
0:05:28 > 0:05:32Armour plate and portholes and giant rudders.
0:05:32 > 0:05:36A lot of steel, but lots of detail and the wrecks are a haven
0:05:36 > 0:05:39for marine life, as well. So, if you're into that sort of thing
0:05:39 > 0:05:41more than the architecture of the wreck,
0:05:41 > 0:05:43then they're teeming with life.
0:05:53 > 0:05:57After an hour underwater, the divers return to the surface.
0:06:03 > 0:06:05It's very broken up, so you can really have a delve in
0:06:05 > 0:06:07and have a look round.
0:06:07 > 0:06:09We had a good look at the bottom of one of the turrets.
0:06:09 > 0:06:12Had a little bit of a look at the conveyer belt for the shells
0:06:12 > 0:06:14and the explosives that they used to fire those.
0:06:14 > 0:06:17Like, a dive like that, you don't just get the marine life,
0:06:17 > 0:06:20you get the history and the story and you can just spend hours
0:06:20 > 0:06:24researching it and you kind of feel a part of it then.
0:06:28 > 0:06:33Emily's experience is becoming more common in Scotland's rural areas.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37Decades of depopulation are starting to be reversed
0:06:37 > 0:06:40and new kinds of businesses are developing to support the people
0:06:40 > 0:06:42who choose to live here.
0:06:42 > 0:06:44There are a lot of people from "south", as we call it -
0:06:44 > 0:06:47everywhere is south from here, unless you live in Shetland -
0:06:47 > 0:06:49but I think it's quite a nice place to be.
0:06:49 > 0:06:52I've never really felt that we weren't welcome
0:06:52 > 0:06:54and everybody integrates quite well.
0:06:54 > 0:06:58It's nice to live in a place where the locals are very proud
0:06:58 > 0:07:02of their heritage, because it doesn't get lost with more people
0:07:02 > 0:07:06that come in from other places, we just kind of get welcomed here.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09Island life is different, but it just felt right.
0:07:09 > 0:07:11It felt like it was like a breath of fresh air,
0:07:11 > 0:07:16rather than the hustle and bustle of living in inner-city Birmingham or inner-city London.
0:07:16 > 0:07:19It just felt, this is where I should be, why doesn't everybody do this?
0:07:19 > 0:07:21Well, I'm quite glad everybody doesn't do it, really.
0:07:21 > 0:07:24Otherwise, it wouldn't be what it is, would it?
0:07:32 > 0:07:35With the population of Orkney projected to keep growing,
0:07:35 > 0:07:38maintaining essential services like hospitals and schools
0:07:38 > 0:07:41is more important than ever.
0:07:41 > 0:07:44In a community that's scattered across different islands,
0:07:44 > 0:07:45this can be challenging.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51Well, my commute to work is pretty interesting.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54Probably takes about an hour door to door,
0:07:54 > 0:07:56for me to actually get to work,
0:07:56 > 0:07:59but the plane is definitely the most unusual part of my journey to work.
0:08:01 > 0:08:05Kate Evans is a teacher based on Orkney's biggest island, Mainland.
0:08:05 > 0:08:09But her pupils live on other smaller islands -
0:08:09 > 0:08:11Westray, Sanday and Stronsay.
0:08:11 > 0:08:14Today, her journey to work involves taking one of Scotland's
0:08:14 > 0:08:16shortest commercial flights.
0:08:16 > 0:08:17Thanks, Davie.
0:08:17 > 0:08:22A 15-minute hop across the water from Kirkwall to Westray.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40Then it's a taxi ride across the island to the school.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42See you later.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45A chance to catch up with the local gossip.
0:08:47 > 0:08:49So, what's new in Kirkwall today?
0:08:49 > 0:08:52- There's no fog. - No fog?
0:08:52 > 0:08:55Which is always a bonus.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- Nothing to report in Westray, then? - A beautiful day up here.
0:08:58 > 0:09:00Good. That's where we're going.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04This is Westray Junior High.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09It currently has 69 pupils from nursery to S4
0:09:09 > 0:09:13and serves a total island population of just over 550 people.
0:09:14 > 0:09:18Most of the teachers here are local residents.
0:09:18 > 0:09:22For certain subjects, specialists like Kate come in to lend a hand.
0:09:22 > 0:09:25Because there's obviously a difficulty in getting teachers
0:09:25 > 0:09:28to come out to the Isle schools - and I fly in and out every day -
0:09:28 > 0:09:30it's very much a case of
0:09:30 > 0:09:33you have to be able to adapt to different subjects.
0:09:33 > 0:09:37At the moment, in the three schools that I'm in, I teach biology,
0:09:37 > 0:09:40physics and health and food technology.
0:09:40 > 0:09:43So, I have three very interesting subjects
0:09:43 > 0:09:45to get to grips with every week.
0:09:51 > 0:09:53So, this is a new one - not done this one before -
0:09:53 > 0:09:55so we'll have to see how it goes.
0:09:56 > 0:10:00When the weather is bad and I don't get to work,
0:10:00 > 0:10:03various things happen depending on which school it is.
0:10:03 > 0:10:06In most of the schools, the teachers who are resident
0:10:06 > 0:10:09will take my classes and they do a fantastic job -
0:10:09 > 0:10:12considering they're not specialist, they do a really fantastic job.
0:10:12 > 0:10:15And I send in work by e-mail when we're stuck at the airport
0:10:15 > 0:10:19and can't go anywhere. And also sometimes in certain schools
0:10:19 > 0:10:21I'm able to talk to the kids online.
0:10:21 > 0:10:23So very often I'll be sitting at the airport
0:10:23 > 0:10:26but actually chatting online to the kids,
0:10:26 > 0:10:29telling them what to do with their work and I'll be sending them files
0:10:29 > 0:10:33to work on, or worksheets to do in class while I'm actually not there.
0:10:33 > 0:10:38# Hello, hello, hello, hello, hello, hello, hello
0:10:38 > 0:10:43# Hello, hello, hello, hello, hello, hello, hello. #
0:10:43 > 0:10:47It's very important to keep these Isle schools going by having
0:10:47 > 0:10:51travelling teachers and finding people who want to do this job,
0:10:51 > 0:10:55because the school is the most essential part of the community.
0:10:55 > 0:10:56And although it may be a small school
0:10:56 > 0:10:59and there may be small numbers of students here,
0:10:59 > 0:11:02that doesn't make it any less important.
0:11:02 > 0:11:05We still have a job to do and it's important we do that job well.
0:11:06 > 0:11:10The growth rate of Orkney is part of a pattern that is being repeated
0:11:10 > 0:11:12across the Highlands and Islands.
0:11:13 > 0:11:17Between 2001 and 2011, the population of the Highlands
0:11:17 > 0:11:22increased by 11% - a higher rate of growth than most other areas.
0:11:22 > 0:11:26But these are still among the most sparsely populated regions
0:11:26 > 0:11:27in the whole of Europe.
0:11:27 > 0:11:30The landscape here can be harsh and unforgiving.
0:11:31 > 0:11:34So to make ends meet in the 21st century Highlands,
0:11:34 > 0:11:37locals are combining traditional jobs
0:11:37 > 0:11:39with some more forward-thinking initiatives.
0:11:39 > 0:11:44In Assynt, Sutherland, in the far northwest of mainland Scotland,
0:11:44 > 0:11:47crofter couple Andy and Ros have some shepherding to do.
0:11:51 > 0:11:54Right, these are Hebridean sheep.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57These are the original breed of sheep that used to be here
0:11:57 > 0:12:00several hundred years ago before the Clearances.
0:12:00 > 0:12:02We breed them here for... the wool is very, very good,
0:12:02 > 0:12:05but also they taste very good, as well.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11This traditional Highland farm in the remote coastal village
0:12:11 > 0:12:14of Clachtoll is one of several in this part of Scotland
0:12:14 > 0:12:18being maintained by a new generation of crofters.
0:12:18 > 0:12:20It can be a hard life,
0:12:20 > 0:12:23but Andy and Ros's commitment to the place runs deep.
0:12:23 > 0:12:25I can't imagine being anywhere else.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27I mean, the work situation is always difficult
0:12:27 > 0:12:29and whether we have enough money, you know -
0:12:29 > 0:12:30that's what everybody feels -
0:12:30 > 0:12:33but I think there's a lot of commitment here from people
0:12:33 > 0:12:37to look after the community and help it work and look after each other.
0:12:37 > 0:12:39There's a big commitment that way.
0:12:39 > 0:12:41Come on, guys.
0:12:41 > 0:12:43Over the past decade,
0:12:43 > 0:12:46crofting in Scotland has been given a boost by new laws
0:12:46 > 0:12:48that have helped locals buy a stake in the land
0:12:48 > 0:12:50on which they live and work.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53I think one thing that makes a difference is a lot of the community
0:12:53 > 0:12:56now own their own land, so the future is in our own hands, really,
0:12:56 > 0:12:59and it's up to us to think of innovative ways
0:12:59 > 0:13:03to attract investment or attract new types of jobs,
0:13:03 > 0:13:06so you never know what's just round the corner.
0:13:06 > 0:13:09The next thing round the corner for Andy
0:13:09 > 0:13:13could bring some much-needed extra income into the area.
0:13:13 > 0:13:17This moneyspinning idea came to him while he was doing his other job.
0:13:17 > 0:13:19He's a countryside ranger.
0:13:20 > 0:13:25It's inspired by one of Scotland's most iconic and elusive creatures.
0:13:26 > 0:13:27The golden eagle.
0:13:30 > 0:13:32Normally when I come out looking for golden eagles,
0:13:32 > 0:13:34you can be here all day.
0:13:34 > 0:13:36You can be tramping out on the hills.
0:13:36 > 0:13:39They usually nest and have their home range
0:13:39 > 0:13:42in very remote places, so it's a long walk out.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45You can spend your whole day walking out to look for golden eagles.
0:13:45 > 0:13:46They're really well camouflaged
0:13:46 > 0:13:49and they can just sit on the crag or on the heather,
0:13:49 > 0:13:51and maybe at the end of the day, you'll not see any.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58Now Andy has come up with a plan
0:13:58 > 0:14:02to make those magnificent birds of prey a little easier to spot...
0:14:03 > 0:14:07..in the hope that they will attract more tourists into the area.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10Hi, John. It's Andy here.
0:14:10 > 0:14:12I just want to know your status, how you're getting on.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15Have you been able to get any deer yet?
0:14:16 > 0:14:20'We've just got to strap the deer, and then heading towards you.'
0:14:20 > 0:14:21Oh, that's brilliant.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24We're in position now, so we'll just wait for you to come over.
0:14:24 > 0:14:26Thanks.
0:14:26 > 0:14:27Further down the valley,
0:14:27 > 0:14:30wildlife manager and head stalker John Venters
0:14:30 > 0:14:35has just shot a deer as part of routine population control.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38Instead of selling the meat to the local butcher,
0:14:38 > 0:14:42they're going to use the carcass as bait for the golden eagles.
0:14:42 > 0:14:43There's two reasons for this.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46It's going to be food for it for the wintertime.
0:14:46 > 0:14:49Wintertime is a hard time for golden eagles.
0:14:49 > 0:14:51Lots of prey during the summer, but in wintertime,
0:14:51 > 0:14:55they rely on carcasses and dead animals they can find,
0:14:55 > 0:14:57so it's a hard time for them.
0:14:57 > 0:15:00Anything we can give them, keep them through the winter, would be good.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03But, also, it's a wildlife viewing opportunity,
0:15:03 > 0:15:07so our idea is to build a hide,
0:15:07 > 0:15:11and we'll have visitors and guests come to hide
0:15:11 > 0:15:15in January, February, March time, so they can watch the eagle.
0:15:16 > 0:15:18This is a brand-new initiative
0:15:18 > 0:15:21jointly run by the Highland Council and the Assynt Foundation,
0:15:21 > 0:15:23a community-based organisation
0:15:23 > 0:15:27which bought this vast estate ten years ago.
0:15:27 > 0:15:30This area, it's quite a fragile area,
0:15:30 > 0:15:31the economy and stuff like that,
0:15:31 > 0:15:35so ecotourism is a possible way forward.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37There can be nothing as spectacular
0:15:37 > 0:15:40as seeing one of these splendid birds, you know?
0:15:40 > 0:15:43This is the first time John and Andy
0:15:43 > 0:15:46have tried to attract the eagles down from the mountain this way,
0:15:46 > 0:15:49so they have left motion sensor camera traps
0:15:49 > 0:15:52around the carcass to monitor the results.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54If the eagles do show up,
0:15:54 > 0:15:58it'll be a big boost for Andy's experimental eagle tourism project.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01OK, well, we've been here a couple of hours.
0:16:01 > 0:16:03It's beginning to get a wee bit cold.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06Very still. It's absolutely beautiful.
0:16:06 > 0:16:10But at the minute, there's no sign of any eagles just yet.
0:16:10 > 0:16:13So we're just sitting here patiently and seeing what's going to happen.
0:16:16 > 0:16:21As dusk draws in, Andy decides to head for home.
0:16:21 > 0:16:22With a bit of luck,
0:16:22 > 0:16:25if the eagles do come down to feed during the night,
0:16:25 > 0:16:28the camera traps will capture the action.
0:16:28 > 0:16:31If it works, Andy's ecotourism idea
0:16:31 > 0:16:34will not only feed the golden eagles,
0:16:34 > 0:16:37it will also generate income for the local community
0:16:37 > 0:16:39through the harsh winter months.
0:16:50 > 0:16:53The next morning, Andy and John head back up the mountain,
0:16:53 > 0:16:56eager to see if the eagles have taken their bait.
0:17:01 > 0:17:03Wow.
0:17:06 > 0:17:08Oh! This is...
0:17:08 > 0:17:10That's a bird of prey.
0:17:10 > 0:17:12A big bird of prey there.
0:17:12 > 0:17:14That's their droppings. Look. Look, there it is again.
0:17:14 > 0:17:18Hopefully, that's a sign that the golden eagles have been around.
0:17:18 > 0:17:20Something has definitely been at the carcass,
0:17:20 > 0:17:23but with ravens, badgers and other animals in the area,
0:17:23 > 0:17:25it's difficult to know for certain
0:17:25 > 0:17:28if the golden eagles have been feeding here.
0:17:28 > 0:17:32Well, obviously, there's been a lot of activity at the carcass here.
0:17:32 > 0:17:36We think foxes have been at it, pretty definitely ravens.
0:17:36 > 0:17:39So I'm excited to see what the camera traps picked up.
0:17:39 > 0:17:41We'll go and have a look and see if we've got some pictures
0:17:41 > 0:17:44that will tell the full story of who's been to visit.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58OK, let's...
0:17:58 > 0:18:00Let's see what we've got.
0:18:00 > 0:18:02- Oh, yes! Yeah. Yes.- Both of them.
0:18:02 > 0:18:04Oh, there's two, yeah, yeah.
0:18:04 > 0:18:07Right, that's this year's youngster. He'll be about six month's old.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11And that's... That's an adult there. They're both there.
0:18:11 > 0:18:14The young one's really tucking into it, isn't it?
0:18:14 > 0:18:16That's why they've got that big, strong beak,
0:18:16 > 0:18:17for just ripping into it.
0:18:17 > 0:18:18Look at it ripping into it there.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21- Look at the size of them, though, compared to that beastie.- Yeah.
0:18:21 > 0:18:22The young one's calling.
0:18:22 > 0:18:25- See?- Yeah.- It's opened its mouth, calling. Yelping.
0:18:25 > 0:18:26EAGLET CHIRPS
0:18:26 > 0:18:30That's... I'm really pleased with that. That was really good.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32That's good. It's getting dark now.
0:18:32 > 0:18:35Oh, there's something there! It's a badger.
0:18:35 > 0:18:36It's a badger.
0:18:39 > 0:18:40Is it?
0:18:40 > 0:18:43- No, it's not.- No, it's a pine marten.- It's a pine marten.
0:18:43 > 0:18:44Ah!
0:18:44 > 0:18:46- A pine...- A pine marten, yeah.
0:18:54 > 0:18:55Andy's experiment proves
0:18:55 > 0:18:58that leaving deer carcasses out for the eagles
0:18:58 > 0:19:00will help them survive the winter.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04And it will also make it easier for wildlife enthusiasts
0:19:04 > 0:19:08to have a magical encounter with Scotland's most famous bird of prey.
0:19:10 > 0:19:13I think from this, this shows the project could definitely work,
0:19:13 > 0:19:16and we can start advertising...
0:19:16 > 0:19:20- Yeah.- ..you know, "Come to Assynt, come see a golden eagle."
0:19:23 > 0:19:27Scotland's wild places attract more than a million tourists each year,
0:19:27 > 0:19:31drawn by the prospect of getting close to nature at its purest.
0:19:32 > 0:19:35But in this 21st-century Highland landscape,
0:19:35 > 0:19:37appearances can be deceptive.
0:19:49 > 0:19:53Today, many thousands of acres of Scotland's rural land
0:19:53 > 0:19:57is covered by what is, in effect, one huge factory.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00Its product is timber.
0:20:00 > 0:20:03Around 18% of Scotland is covered by trees.
0:20:03 > 0:20:09An additional 380 square miles are due to be planted by 2022.
0:20:09 > 0:20:13They're a key renewable asset for a growing hi-tech industry
0:20:13 > 0:20:16that employs over 20,000 people
0:20:16 > 0:20:18and is worth nearly £1 billion a year.
0:20:22 > 0:20:28BSW Timber in Dalbeattie is the highest volume sawmill in the UK.
0:20:28 > 0:20:30They make products for the construction,
0:20:30 > 0:20:33DIY and biofuels industries.
0:20:33 > 0:20:36With a workforce of around 160 people,
0:20:36 > 0:20:39it's the largest single employer in the area.
0:20:41 > 0:20:44Robert Lamont from Dalbeattie has worked here for several years,
0:20:44 > 0:20:48and trained his way up to become one of the site managers.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51He's now in charge of some of the most technologically advanced
0:20:51 > 0:20:53timber production in the world.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56Everything is controlled from this one cabin.
0:20:56 > 0:20:58The operator sitting in the seat there
0:20:58 > 0:21:02is monitoring over 20 different cameras on the line,
0:21:02 > 0:21:04following it right through the whole cycle.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07In a normal shift, an eight-and-a-half hour shift,
0:21:07 > 0:21:11we will process around about 1,000 cubic metres of timber.
0:21:11 > 0:21:17In a week, we'll probably average around 40,000 to 50,000 logs.
0:21:17 > 0:21:19To process such massive quantities of timber,
0:21:19 > 0:21:22the mill uses the latest hi-tech equipment.
0:21:22 > 0:21:24Every single log that passes through the line
0:21:24 > 0:21:27will pass through a laser scanner.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30That scanner will define the shape of every single log,
0:21:30 > 0:21:34and each machine on the line will move into position
0:21:34 > 0:21:37to cut different width boards, depending on the shape of the log.
0:21:37 > 0:21:42The lasers are there to maximise the volume of saleable timber
0:21:42 > 0:21:44from each and every individual log.
0:21:46 > 0:21:49Very advanced in sawmilling.
0:21:49 > 0:21:52Years ago, the operators running the mill
0:21:52 > 0:21:55would just do a visual check of the log,
0:21:55 > 0:22:00and they would physically turn the log on a joystick
0:22:00 > 0:22:03to what they thought was the best presentation to the machines.
0:22:03 > 0:22:07But technology's made huge leaps forward
0:22:07 > 0:22:09in the advanced sawmilling sector.
0:22:11 > 0:22:14Scotland's timber industry has another key advantage.
0:22:14 > 0:22:16The weather.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19The warm, wet climate helps trees to grow faster here
0:22:19 > 0:22:22than in other parts of Europe.
0:22:22 > 0:22:23Conifers in particular
0:22:23 > 0:22:27grow up to three times as fast as they do in Scandinavia.
0:22:27 > 0:22:30This has allowed the industry to grow significantly
0:22:30 > 0:22:32in the last 20 years,
0:22:32 > 0:22:35when other manufacturing industries have been in decline.
0:22:35 > 0:22:37But it's not all plain sailing.
0:22:37 > 0:22:41Like eagles, trees are a natural resource.
0:22:41 > 0:22:45Exploitation and conservation have to go hand-in-hand.
0:22:46 > 0:22:50One of the biggest current threats to Scotland's forests is disease.
0:22:52 > 0:22:54So the tree doctors are taking to the skies
0:22:54 > 0:22:56to try and diagnose the problem.
0:22:56 > 0:22:59So, today, we're doing a surveillance flight
0:22:59 > 0:23:01over southwestern Scotland,
0:23:01 > 0:23:05and I will be looking for trees that aren't looking well.
0:23:06 > 0:23:09Paddy Robertson is operations manager
0:23:09 > 0:23:12of the Forestry Commission's tree health team.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17From a helicopter, we can survey massive areas in a single day,
0:23:17 > 0:23:21and we get a plane view of the top of the forest, or the forest canopy.
0:23:21 > 0:23:23Even from a couple of kilometres away in the air,
0:23:23 > 0:23:26we can see trees that are showing signs of ill health.
0:23:26 > 0:23:28INDISTINCT RADIO CHATTER
0:23:32 > 0:23:34Paddy and his team are responsible
0:23:34 > 0:23:37for the well-being of millions of Scottish trees.
0:23:39 > 0:23:43It's their job to prevent the spread of a growing number of diseases
0:23:43 > 0:23:44that can infect our forests.
0:23:46 > 0:23:48At certain times of the year,
0:23:48 > 0:23:50different trees turn different colours.
0:23:50 > 0:23:53What we're looking for is trees that are going orange or brown
0:23:53 > 0:23:55at the wrong time of year.
0:23:59 > 0:24:02This is the best view you can get of the forest.
0:24:02 > 0:24:03From his bird's-eye view,
0:24:03 > 0:24:06Paddy has spotted something that needs closer inspection.
0:24:06 > 0:24:09Can you take us down here on the left, please?
0:24:09 > 0:24:12See that there? See the spruce by the forest road there.
0:24:15 > 0:24:17The team have identified an area
0:24:17 > 0:24:20that looks like it's infected with one of the most deadly diseases
0:24:20 > 0:24:23currently threatening Scotland's forests.
0:24:25 > 0:24:29Phytophthora ramorum turned up in large trees in Scotland
0:24:29 > 0:24:30in the last five years.
0:24:30 > 0:24:31It's a major issue
0:24:31 > 0:24:34in that it's behaving in different ways on different species.
0:24:34 > 0:24:37But the large populations, because they're such big trees,
0:24:37 > 0:24:39when you get infection and they start to sporulate,
0:24:39 > 0:24:41you then get spores travelling big distances.
0:24:41 > 0:24:43If we did nothing, this particular pest
0:24:43 > 0:24:45would kill the majority of the large trees,
0:24:45 > 0:24:47particularly on the western seaboard,
0:24:47 > 0:24:49probably in the next five to ten years.
0:24:49 > 0:24:54We're controlling it, but it's very much reliant on rapid action.
0:24:54 > 0:24:56Yeah, that's exactly what we're looking for.
0:24:58 > 0:25:02Having detected a potential infection from the air,
0:25:02 > 0:25:05the team now has to try to access it on the ground.
0:25:08 > 0:25:10We're going in here to follow up the tree
0:25:10 > 0:25:12that looks like it's in poor health -
0:25:12 > 0:25:14the tree we've identified from the helicopter.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16It's very obvious from the air,
0:25:16 > 0:25:18but when you're walking from underneath, it's not so obvious.
0:25:18 > 0:25:20If you've got the location on the GPS,
0:25:20 > 0:25:21you can walk to it a bit quicker.
0:25:26 > 0:25:28If this disease is what we fear it might be,
0:25:28 > 0:25:30it's a highly infectious disease,
0:25:30 > 0:25:32so if we don't remove this tree and the trees around it,
0:25:32 > 0:25:36in subsequent years, you could lose the whole forest.
0:25:43 > 0:25:47You've got it there, have you? Let's have a look.
0:25:48 > 0:25:50Oh, that one there. Yeah, there he is.
0:25:53 > 0:25:57Identifying and felling infected trees before the disease spreads
0:25:57 > 0:25:59is crucial to controlling the infection.
0:26:02 > 0:26:04Having found the dying tree,
0:26:04 > 0:26:08Paddy and his team need to diagnose the problem as quickly as possible.
0:26:08 > 0:26:10You can see in here
0:26:10 > 0:26:13where I'm exposing the wood underneath the bark,
0:26:13 > 0:26:15it's very brown.
0:26:16 > 0:26:17Really not very happy at all.
0:26:19 > 0:26:22It should be green, or a nice creamy colour.
0:26:25 > 0:26:28A sample from the tree should tell Paddy what's wrong.
0:26:28 > 0:26:31So a little bit of this solution in the dropper.
0:26:33 > 0:26:36Stick it in the well and wait.
0:26:37 > 0:26:40- That's pretty convincing straightaway.- Quick, isn't it?
0:26:40 > 0:26:43Like a pregnancy test. There's two stripes you can see there.
0:26:43 > 0:26:45There's a T for test and C for control.
0:26:45 > 0:26:48If there's no phytophthora present, the test line will not come up.
0:26:48 > 0:26:51As you can see here, it's quite quickly come up with
0:26:51 > 0:26:53a line for the control and for the test.
0:26:53 > 0:26:55So that's pretty convincing.
0:26:55 > 0:26:57I will still send a sample to the lab for confirmation,
0:26:57 > 0:26:59but at this sight,
0:26:59 > 0:27:02I'd be comfortable we'll be informing the landowner
0:27:02 > 0:27:05and proceeding to get the site felled
0:27:05 > 0:27:08to try and control the infection that is here.
0:27:10 > 0:27:13This forest is in the heart of Dumfriesshire,
0:27:13 > 0:27:16an area particularly affected by the disease.
0:27:16 > 0:27:19It's crucial that the infected area is cleared quickly
0:27:19 > 0:27:24to stop the spread and also maximise the amount of still healthy timber
0:27:24 > 0:27:25that can be processed and sold.
0:27:27 > 0:27:31There's 14,000 tonnes of timber to be harvested here.
0:27:32 > 0:27:35So this is where modern forestry's cutting-edge kit
0:27:35 > 0:27:36comes into its own.
0:27:40 > 0:27:43In charge of the operation is Mike Mitchell.
0:27:43 > 0:27:47The machine that we're using today is called a mounty skyline.
0:27:47 > 0:27:51It's specifically designed for steep terrain
0:27:51 > 0:27:55and sites that are sensitive to weather and rainfall.
0:27:57 > 0:27:59The rope that you can see going up the hill
0:27:59 > 0:28:03is a static cable with a carriage running along it.
0:28:03 > 0:28:07Once the trees get to the bottom of the skyline,
0:28:07 > 0:28:09the harvester head will grab the tree
0:28:09 > 0:28:12and process it into predetermined lengths,
0:28:12 > 0:28:15and from there, they go to the roadside and to the sawmill.
0:28:22 > 0:28:25If we didn't clear the trees from the area,
0:28:25 > 0:28:27the trees would naturally die,
0:28:27 > 0:28:30rot back, they become quite dangerous.
0:28:30 > 0:28:34Signs are this year that the spread has slowed down significantly.
0:28:34 > 0:28:36I think we are slowly getting on top of it,
0:28:36 > 0:28:39but I don't think we could eradicate it totally.
0:28:40 > 0:28:43Out here, deep in the Galloway forest,
0:28:43 > 0:28:45this multi-million pound industry
0:28:45 > 0:28:49is completely hidden from the view of most Scots.
0:28:49 > 0:28:51But it's become one of the key drivers
0:28:51 > 0:28:54of the 21st-century Scottish economy.
0:28:54 > 0:28:57Right across Scotland's remote regions,
0:28:57 > 0:29:01far from the country's centres of population and employment,
0:29:01 > 0:29:05communities and businesses are flourishing in unexpected ways.
0:29:06 > 0:29:09Increasingly, being physically cut off
0:29:09 > 0:29:11doesn't mean being out of touch.
0:29:11 > 0:29:15One remarkable example can be found on the Isle of Coll.
0:29:16 > 0:29:20Coll lies just under nine miles off the west coast
0:29:20 > 0:29:23and is one of Scotland's smallest Hebridean communities.
0:29:26 > 0:29:29Connected to the mainland by a two-and-a-half hour ferry journey
0:29:29 > 0:29:31and six flights a week,
0:29:31 > 0:29:35the island has just two main roads, no street lights,
0:29:35 > 0:29:38and is home to around 200 people.
0:29:38 > 0:29:41Many of them, like fireman Angus Smalley,
0:29:41 > 0:29:44must do more than one job to make ends meet.
0:29:44 > 0:29:47Obviously, I'm in charge of this unit.
0:29:47 > 0:29:50I also would provide the fire cover up at the airport.
0:29:50 > 0:29:51So we cover...
0:29:51 > 0:29:54we cover two flights on a Monday, two on a Wednesday,
0:29:54 > 0:29:56one on a Friday and one on a Sunday, up there.
0:29:56 > 0:29:58I work for Caledonian MacBrayne.
0:29:58 > 0:30:00I'm one of the pier hands down at the pier.
0:30:00 > 0:30:03Got a croft of my own with 50-odd sheep on.
0:30:03 > 0:30:06Look after a herd of pedigree Highland cattle
0:30:06 > 0:30:08for a lady that's retired but doesn't live here any more.
0:30:08 > 0:30:10Yeah, plenty to do.
0:30:12 > 0:30:16One service that isn't provided on the island is policing.
0:30:16 > 0:30:18Unfortunately, we don't have police here.
0:30:18 > 0:30:20Or fortunately, whichever way you want to look at it.
0:30:20 > 0:30:21I think it's a good thing.
0:30:21 > 0:30:25I think it shows that we are pretty well-behaved, if nothing else!
0:30:28 > 0:30:30Despite his modern-day fire engine,
0:30:30 > 0:30:34John's way of life echoes the traditional island pattern.
0:30:34 > 0:30:38But hidden away in the northwest corner of Coll
0:30:38 > 0:30:40is something much more unusual.
0:30:40 > 0:30:45The busy headquarters of a thriving international organisation.
0:30:46 > 0:30:48These are the offices of Project Trust,
0:30:48 > 0:30:50an educational charity
0:30:50 > 0:30:54that offers overseas volunteering placements for school-leavers.
0:30:54 > 0:30:56As Coll's largest employer,
0:30:56 > 0:31:00Project Trust plays a major role in the prosperity of the island.
0:31:01 > 0:31:04Ingrid Emerson is CEO.
0:31:04 > 0:31:07I think the impact on Coll is huge.
0:31:07 > 0:31:10You know, it's a relatively small Hebridean island.
0:31:10 > 0:31:14It's pretty remote, it's quite isolated.
0:31:14 > 0:31:21Yet, suddenly, you come across this very vibrant, busy, active,
0:31:21 > 0:31:24reasonably young group of people
0:31:24 > 0:31:26who, by and large,
0:31:26 > 0:31:29the majority have moved here for the actual work.
0:31:29 > 0:31:34You know, there's a real sense of business about Coll.
0:31:34 > 0:31:37You know, and whilst Project Trust
0:31:37 > 0:31:40is absolutely not totally responsible for that,
0:31:40 > 0:31:43it certainly plays a really big part in it.
0:31:47 > 0:31:50Project Trust annually selects around 300 young people
0:31:50 > 0:31:52from across the UK and Europe
0:31:52 > 0:31:56for extended voluntary teaching and social care projects,
0:31:56 > 0:32:00often in isolated parts of Africa, Asia and the Americas.
0:32:00 > 0:32:03The charity was set up in 1967,
0:32:03 > 0:32:06and as it approaches its 50th birthday,
0:32:06 > 0:32:08it's bigger than ever.
0:32:08 > 0:32:14John Fraser first came to the island in the early 1970s as a volunteer.
0:32:14 > 0:32:17He liked it so much that he's still here
0:32:17 > 0:32:20and has become the project's overseas programme director.
0:32:20 > 0:32:24For John, Coll isn't just a nice place to live.
0:32:24 > 0:32:26Its remoteness makes it the perfect training ground
0:32:26 > 0:32:30for teenagers hoping to be sent abroad alone.
0:32:30 > 0:32:33It's excellent preparation for people going overseas.
0:32:33 > 0:32:36It weeds out a lot of people who might think,
0:32:36 > 0:32:38"Oh, it's a bit far, it's a step too far."
0:32:38 > 0:32:40And it mimics a lot of travelling overseas.
0:32:40 > 0:32:44I mean, even to get from Scotland to here is not straightforward.
0:32:44 > 0:32:47If you're coming from the south of England, coming from Europe,
0:32:47 > 0:32:50where many of our volunteers come from, it's a journey in itself.
0:32:54 > 0:32:58Today, 14 new, young volunteers are arriving on Coll.
0:32:58 > 0:33:01Each one hopes they'll be selected.
0:33:01 > 0:33:06But, first, they need to prove they can hack it in the Hebrides.
0:33:06 > 0:33:08My name's Chris Buckingham. I'm from Essex.
0:33:08 > 0:33:11I'm from a little town called Southwold in Suffolk.
0:33:11 > 0:33:14- I'm from High Wycombe. - I'm came from Birmingham.
0:33:14 > 0:33:15I travelled up from Newcastle.
0:33:15 > 0:33:19I've never been to Coll before. It's absolutely beautiful.
0:33:19 > 0:33:21It's interesting.
0:33:21 > 0:33:23It's very different to where I'm from.
0:33:23 > 0:33:25I mean, I'm sitting here, looking out,
0:33:25 > 0:33:28and I can only see two buildings.
0:33:28 > 0:33:30It's a bit weird, but, yeah.
0:33:31 > 0:33:35Over the next few days, each of the volunteer candidates
0:33:35 > 0:33:37will be challenged in a series of tasks and workshops
0:33:37 > 0:33:41to assess which one of the overseas projects
0:33:41 > 0:33:43would be most suitable for them
0:33:43 > 0:33:45and, crucially, how they'll handle a year
0:33:45 > 0:33:47in a far-flung corner of the globe.
0:33:48 > 0:33:51It give you a hint of what being abroad,
0:33:51 > 0:33:53somewhere really remote, would be like.
0:33:53 > 0:33:56You have no idea what you're doing, no idea who you're going to be with,
0:33:56 > 0:34:00and then you'll stay with some random people that you've never met,
0:34:00 > 0:34:01and it's like a taste
0:34:01 > 0:34:05of perhaps being isolated from your family or from your home comforts.
0:34:08 > 0:34:09This week's selection course
0:34:09 > 0:34:14coincides with one of the highlights of the Coll social calendar.
0:34:14 > 0:34:16Tonight is our annual fishing competition
0:34:16 > 0:34:18in the village here on the Isle of Coll.
0:34:18 > 0:34:20It runs from seven o'clock till nine o'clock.
0:34:20 > 0:34:22All small boats with crews of three on.
0:34:22 > 0:34:25It was primarily set up for visitors.
0:34:25 > 0:34:27Something for the visitors to do in the summer.
0:34:27 > 0:34:29So every boat has to have a visitor on it.
0:34:29 > 0:34:32- I've got myself on a boat. - Er, who got you on a boat?
0:34:32 > 0:34:36Yeah, it's been going quite a long time now, yeah.
0:34:36 > 0:34:39Since the mid-'50s, I think it was set up, I think.
0:34:39 > 0:34:43You win trophies. Win trophies, some money, the odd bit of alcohol.
0:34:43 > 0:34:45Hold on. Did you bring any beer with you?
0:34:45 > 0:34:47It's a good night. Yeah, good fun.
0:34:47 > 0:34:49Quite competitive between a couple of the boats.
0:34:49 > 0:34:51- Some of us aren't quite that competitive.- See you later.
0:34:51 > 0:34:53There's one chap here that continues to win it.
0:34:53 > 0:34:55A chap by the name of John Fraser,
0:34:55 > 0:34:58which, every year we try to dethrone, but every year, they fail!
0:34:59 > 0:35:01He's very, very, competitive at it.
0:35:01 > 0:35:04It is good for it, you know. Gives it a bit of an edge.
0:35:11 > 0:35:13AIR HORN BLARES
0:35:25 > 0:35:27CHEERING
0:35:40 > 0:35:43Meanwhile, on the other side of the island,
0:35:43 > 0:35:47three more new arrivals are exploring Coll's famous beaches.
0:35:50 > 0:35:52It's such a nice beach.
0:35:52 > 0:35:55- Gorgeous, isn't it? - Pretty impressive.
0:35:55 > 0:35:58If it was a bit warmer, it could be the Mediterranean.
0:36:01 > 0:36:03I didn't expect this at all.
0:36:03 > 0:36:07I kind of expected a windy, rainy Scottish island,
0:36:07 > 0:36:09but this is so much better.
0:36:11 > 0:36:12Come on, then, dog.
0:36:14 > 0:36:17Their guide is one of the many islanders who welcome
0:36:17 > 0:36:20volunteers into their homes for the duration of their stay.
0:36:22 > 0:36:25I'm nervous about being away for a year.
0:36:25 > 0:36:28I think you'd be a bit foolish not to be.
0:36:28 > 0:36:31But, no, more looking forward to hopefully going
0:36:31 > 0:36:33away for a year if I'm selected.
0:36:33 > 0:36:37And just going to enjoy this while I'm here as well, in Coll.
0:36:43 > 0:36:47Back in the village, two hours of fiercely competitive fishing are up.
0:36:49 > 0:36:51It's time to see who has the heaviest haul.
0:36:53 > 0:36:56Last year's winner, John Fraser, is the man to beat.
0:36:58 > 0:37:02Don't lose it. Need that. Might just win us the heaviest box.
0:37:02 > 0:37:06We're happy with that. That's good for us.
0:37:06 > 0:37:09Yeah, it was pretty good. I'm covered in fish blood.
0:37:09 > 0:37:11Yeah.
0:37:11 > 0:37:14I had my first taste of, like, fish blood and Tennent's, mixed,
0:37:14 > 0:37:17which was a pretty acquired taste, actually.
0:37:17 > 0:37:19Get my priorities right. Get my beer up first.
0:37:19 > 0:37:21Aye, get your beer up first.
0:37:21 > 0:37:24We didn't get many mackerel. That's probably the best one.
0:37:24 > 0:37:28We'll see what happens, eh? We'll get the scales up and running here.
0:37:28 > 0:37:31As each boat's catch is weighed in,
0:37:31 > 0:37:34it becomes clear that the contest is wide open,
0:37:34 > 0:37:38and reigning champion John isn't in the running.
0:37:38 > 0:37:41It's...41.25.
0:37:41 > 0:37:4241.25.
0:37:43 > 0:37:46Yeah, I've won it a few times over the years.
0:37:46 > 0:37:49Won it last year but I won't be winning it this year,
0:37:49 > 0:37:50that's for certain.
0:37:50 > 0:37:52Highland Plastics.
0:37:52 > 0:37:53Highland Plastics.
0:37:56 > 0:37:57Oh, my word.
0:38:00 > 0:38:0467 and a half. 67.5.
0:38:04 > 0:38:08The results are in, and it falls to John to announce the winners.
0:38:10 > 0:38:13Right, before we all get eaten by midges...
0:38:13 > 0:38:14HE GROANS
0:38:14 > 0:38:20..for the final prize, this was 30.53 kilos - Highland Plastics.
0:38:20 > 0:38:21CHEERING
0:38:21 > 0:38:23Fire chief Angus and his crew
0:38:23 > 0:38:27have won it for the first time in over ten years of trying.
0:38:27 > 0:38:29- Well done.- Thank you.
0:38:30 > 0:38:33I think we're heading to the pub now for a pint
0:38:33 > 0:38:38and Julie always puts on onion bhajis, etc, so go and enjoy.
0:38:38 > 0:38:40- Night-night. - CHEERING AND APPLAUSE
0:38:45 > 0:38:48The continuing success of Project Trust proves that
0:38:48 > 0:38:50in the 21st-century Hebrides,
0:38:50 > 0:38:55physical isolation no longer means being cut off from the world.
0:38:56 > 0:38:59This fishing competition is just one event
0:38:59 > 0:39:01on Coll's busy social calendar.
0:39:01 > 0:39:06The island also hosts, among other things, an annual half-marathon,
0:39:06 > 0:39:10a basking shark festival and even a chamber music festival.
0:39:11 > 0:39:14Scotland's rural communities have been inventing
0:39:14 > 0:39:18weird and wonderful ways to entertain themselves for centuries.
0:39:18 > 0:39:19From Highland Games
0:39:19 > 0:39:21to fire festivals,
0:39:21 > 0:39:25these traditions have always helped to bring people together.
0:39:25 > 0:39:29Today, some of these events have grown into big business,
0:39:29 > 0:39:31worth millions of pounds to local economies.
0:39:35 > 0:39:38One of the biggest, fastest and loudest
0:39:38 > 0:39:42takes place every October here on the Isle of Mull.
0:39:42 > 0:39:45MUSIC: Crosstown Traffic by Jimi Hendrix
0:39:50 > 0:39:51INDISTINCT
0:39:58 > 0:39:59The Mull Rally.
0:40:07 > 0:40:11Started by amateur enthusiasts in 1969,
0:40:11 > 0:40:13the Mull Rally has become world-famous
0:40:13 > 0:40:15on the global motor sport circuit.
0:40:20 > 0:40:23It is now the only rally in Great Britain that's
0:40:23 > 0:40:25staged on closed public roads
0:40:25 > 0:40:30and the competitors are still overwhelmingly non-professionals
0:40:30 > 0:40:31who come from all over the UK
0:40:31 > 0:40:34to test their skills on Mull's notorious bends.
0:40:35 > 0:40:37It's a week a year, one week a year
0:40:37 > 0:40:39where the island is completely transformed.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42You don't want to come to the island in this week if you're a cyclist
0:40:42 > 0:40:44expecting a nice, quiet cycling holiday
0:40:44 > 0:40:45because it just ain't going to happen.
0:40:45 > 0:40:48Colin Clarke is the voice of rallying.
0:40:48 > 0:40:50He spends his life touring the world
0:40:50 > 0:40:52and reporting from all the major races.
0:40:52 > 0:40:55But for him and for motorsport fans across the globe,
0:40:55 > 0:40:58Mull is something special.
0:40:58 > 0:41:01It has got worldwide appeal, this rally.
0:41:01 > 0:41:04The fans around the world know about Mull Rally.
0:41:04 > 0:41:06They see the pictures, they'll watch the TV footage
0:41:06 > 0:41:10and it has to have a very positive affect on tourism.
0:41:10 > 0:41:13In terms of the numbers that are involved, it is amazing.
0:41:14 > 0:41:17This year, 143 teams have entered the rally
0:41:17 > 0:41:21and, as race day approaches, Mull is occupied by an invading army of
0:41:21 > 0:41:25drivers, navigators, engineers, fans
0:41:25 > 0:41:28and some of the most powerful cars on the planet.
0:41:32 > 0:41:36Mull's population, normally around 3,000 people, almost doubles.
0:41:38 > 0:41:41And it's estimated that over £1 million will be spent here
0:41:41 > 0:41:45during the event, a massive boost to Mull's economy
0:41:45 > 0:41:47at the end of the tourist season.
0:41:47 > 0:41:51You see the pictures of Mull and it is the most beautiful island
0:41:51 > 0:41:53and you think it is just a quiet backwater where practically
0:41:53 > 0:41:55nothing goes on, but it's not.
0:41:55 > 0:41:58It is a place where people work very, very hard to make a living.
0:41:58 > 0:42:00It's not easy to make a living out here.
0:42:00 > 0:42:02These guys have to be all-rounders.
0:42:02 > 0:42:06They're drivers, they're engineers, they're foresters, they're farmers.
0:42:06 > 0:42:09They're all sorts and that's the way you make a living,
0:42:09 > 0:42:13living and working in what's quite a demanding environment, I suppose.
0:42:18 > 0:42:21But there's something else about the Mull Rally that makes it
0:42:21 > 0:42:24unique in the world of motorsport.
0:42:24 > 0:42:27Many of the top competitors are local island people.
0:42:30 > 0:42:33ENGINE ROARS
0:42:33 > 0:42:36Allan Cameron owns the local filling station
0:42:36 > 0:42:39and has been taking part in the rally for 26 years.
0:42:40 > 0:42:44This car will be around about 280 horsepower.
0:42:44 > 0:42:47It's not the most powerful in the event but, you know,
0:42:47 > 0:42:48it's getting that way.
0:42:48 > 0:42:50Your car's probably something like, maybe,
0:42:50 > 0:42:53I don't know, I guess about 85.
0:42:53 > 0:42:56So there's... There is...
0:42:56 > 0:42:58- There's quite a difference. - HE CHUCKLES
0:43:00 > 0:43:01Over its 46-year history,
0:43:01 > 0:43:05the rally has become more than a chance to break the speed limit -
0:43:05 > 0:43:08it has become knitted into the life of the community.
0:43:08 > 0:43:11There's been people coming to the island through the rallies
0:43:11 > 0:43:17since it began and some have actually retired here or moved
0:43:17 > 0:43:21up here, bought a house up here, work up here, things like that.
0:43:21 > 0:43:25You've got Easter, Christmas and the rally.
0:43:25 > 0:43:28It's part of the culture, I would say.
0:43:31 > 0:43:34Today, the Isle of Mull boasts around 20 rally teams,
0:43:34 > 0:43:39probably the highest number per head of population of the planet.
0:43:39 > 0:43:43You won't find another population centre anywhere in the world,
0:43:43 > 0:43:45anywhere in the world, whether it's a town or village that
0:43:45 > 0:43:49actually has produced so many really top-quality rally drivers.
0:43:49 > 0:43:52Rallying for a lot of the youngsters here is what they grow up with,
0:43:52 > 0:43:54it's what they aspire to be. They want to be rally drivers.
0:43:54 > 0:43:57They don't want to be footballers, they don't want to be rugby players.
0:43:57 > 0:44:00The rally is such a huge part of the island
0:44:00 > 0:44:03that these youngsters all want to drive rally cars.
0:44:03 > 0:44:07One of those youngsters whose racing dreams came true
0:44:07 > 0:44:09is eight-times Mull Rally champion Calum Duffy.
0:44:12 > 0:44:16Having won the rally last year, Calum and his co-pilot brother, Ian,
0:44:16 > 0:44:20will be starting in pole position with their new Subaru.
0:44:20 > 0:44:24It's something their mum, Catherine, has mixed feelings about.
0:44:29 > 0:44:31Oh, dear Lord.
0:44:31 > 0:44:33It's not good for me.
0:44:33 > 0:44:37You know, I used to smoke and, honest to God, I will be there
0:44:37 > 0:44:40with about two cigarettes in my mouth and one in each hand.
0:44:40 > 0:44:43It's not good for old people.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46You don't realise how fast you're going in the car
0:44:46 > 0:44:49until you see the videos and everything people have taken
0:44:49 > 0:44:53and how close you are to the edge sometimes but...
0:44:53 > 0:44:56it's good fun, so...
0:44:58 > 0:44:59..better to live life like that.
0:45:03 > 0:45:07I'd be lying if I said that winning wasn't important.
0:45:07 > 0:45:10We go into the rally to give it out best shot.
0:45:11 > 0:45:13We go as hard as we possibly can.
0:45:13 > 0:45:17You have personal bests that you're trying to beat all the time.
0:45:17 > 0:45:19You know what you can do in the stages,
0:45:19 > 0:45:21but it's not the be all and end all.
0:45:21 > 0:45:22I've had plenty good battles.
0:45:22 > 0:45:25If someone gives me a good fight and beats me,
0:45:25 > 0:45:28they're more than welcome to take the title.
0:45:36 > 0:45:38It's day one of the big race
0:45:38 > 0:45:40and rally fever is gripping the island.
0:45:43 > 0:45:44The roads have been cleared,
0:45:44 > 0:45:47the cars have been certified and the whole of the Duffy family
0:45:47 > 0:45:51have come together to see the brothers off.
0:45:51 > 0:45:53Very emotional when they're starting, you know,
0:45:53 > 0:45:55the night that they're going.
0:45:55 > 0:46:00I always feel very emotional then, when they're heading off.
0:46:00 > 0:46:03But they never go without a hug.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08That's part of being the old mother, isn't it?
0:46:10 > 0:46:13As the light fades, Mull's main town, Tobermory,
0:46:13 > 0:46:16begins to reverberate with the rumble of engines.
0:46:22 > 0:46:24Souped-up cars in all shapes and sizes
0:46:24 > 0:46:28sweep in to the normally tranquil port, ready for action.
0:46:29 > 0:46:34With an hour to go, local driver Allan is sizing up the competition.
0:46:34 > 0:46:37Could be somebody coming in that's never done the event before
0:46:37 > 0:46:40but he could be really quick because it's his first time here.
0:46:40 > 0:46:42- So you can't allow for that, you know? - LOUD BANG
0:46:42 > 0:46:44HE LAUGHS
0:46:45 > 0:46:47Sorry about the sound effects.
0:46:49 > 0:46:52From here, the drivers will blast off one at a time
0:46:52 > 0:46:56across the island at speeds of up to 120mph.
0:46:57 > 0:47:02They'll be cheered on by hundreds of spectators lining the route.
0:47:02 > 0:47:04It gets people out on the island.
0:47:04 > 0:47:07From Moness at the south end of Mull to Tobermory.
0:47:07 > 0:47:09It brings the whole island together.
0:47:13 > 0:47:16Outside Calum Duffy's hometown of Dervaig,
0:47:16 > 0:47:20Calum's dad, Huey, takes up his usual vantage point.
0:47:20 > 0:47:23It's a bit tense at the moment, just waiting for things to happen.
0:47:23 > 0:47:25And the fact that we've had a little rain,
0:47:25 > 0:47:28it's going to make it very interesting.
0:47:28 > 0:47:30Calum is in pole position,
0:47:30 > 0:47:34and the first driver of the night to tackle Dervaig's hairpin bends.
0:47:39 > 0:47:41Seemed OK.
0:47:41 > 0:47:45I'd say he was a little cautious but it's understandable, you know.
0:47:45 > 0:47:48First stage, a little slippy,
0:47:48 > 0:47:51he's just trying to feel the car, you know.
0:47:51 > 0:47:54As the race continues deep into the night,
0:47:54 > 0:47:56the weather takes a turn for the worse.
0:47:56 > 0:48:00With rain lashing down, Calum is holding a slender lead.
0:48:02 > 0:48:04I think tomorrow will be really good.
0:48:04 > 0:48:07I think it'll be a good battle yet.
0:48:19 > 0:48:21But on day two of the rally,
0:48:21 > 0:48:24as the crowds begin to gather again outside Dervaig,
0:48:24 > 0:48:27news filters through about an accident
0:48:27 > 0:48:29on an earlier stage of the race.
0:48:29 > 0:48:33One of the lead cars has crashed into a field and burst into flames.
0:48:34 > 0:48:38It's so serious that the whole event is immediately shut down.
0:48:40 > 0:48:43The car that crashed was being driven by John MacCrone,
0:48:43 > 0:48:47one of the top drivers in the race and a Mull native.
0:48:48 > 0:48:52John has been seriously injured and helicoptered to hospital in Glasgow.
0:49:05 > 0:49:09Tragically, his co-driver, Andy Mort, died at the scene.
0:49:12 > 0:49:15With the whole island in shock, a memorial service is organised
0:49:15 > 0:49:19to show support for the family and share in the collective grief.
0:49:22 > 0:49:26Ladies and gentlemen, children, all...
0:49:27 > 0:49:33..thank you for coming to join us on this sad afternoon
0:49:33 > 0:49:37to pay tribute to Andy Mort,
0:49:37 > 0:49:41who so tragically lost his life yesterday.
0:49:41 > 0:49:47We all know that this game that we play is dangerous.
0:49:47 > 0:49:50We never think it's going to happen to us, our friends...
0:49:52 > 0:49:55..and we don't like to even imagine it can happen.
0:49:58 > 0:49:59I'd like to ask...
0:50:01 > 0:50:04..Calum Duffy, please, if he'd come and join me.
0:50:07 > 0:50:09We're gathered here in simple disbelief
0:50:09 > 0:50:12United we stand to share this grief
0:50:12 > 0:50:15Taken from this world in a blink of an eye
0:50:15 > 0:50:19Doing what he loved but no time to say goodbye
0:50:19 > 0:50:21A gentle giant Fun-loving and kind
0:50:21 > 0:50:24These traits in a person are very hard to find.
0:50:24 > 0:50:28Take care, big fellow. The angels have you now. Fly.
0:50:40 > 0:50:42PIPER PLAYS
0:50:49 > 0:50:51An occasion like this, you know,
0:50:51 > 0:50:53I've seen it a couple of times before, you know,
0:50:53 > 0:50:55when you've had people lost in boats and things like that,
0:50:55 > 0:50:57nothing to do with the rally, you know.
0:50:57 > 0:51:00It's felt throughout the island, you know, and...
0:51:00 > 0:51:03it's amazing the way people band together in situations like this
0:51:03 > 0:51:06and this community is strong, it really is,
0:51:06 > 0:51:10and I'm more than confident they'll come through it stronger.
0:51:20 > 0:51:21Despite the accident,
0:51:21 > 0:51:26it has since been decided that the rally will be staged again in 2016.
0:51:26 > 0:51:30It's become part of the spirit of this unique place
0:51:30 > 0:51:33and it's a chance for the community here to show the rest of the world
0:51:33 > 0:51:38what Mull, and the Highlands and Islands in general, are all about,
0:51:38 > 0:51:42because there is something magical about Scotland's wilderness.
0:51:42 > 0:51:46Many visitors from around the world, and the locals, would agree.
0:51:47 > 0:51:50So what is it that makes these places feel so special?
0:51:52 > 0:51:55Maybe it's the fact that, out here,
0:51:55 > 0:51:59we can all feel part of something bigger than ourselves.
0:51:59 > 0:52:01In the far southwest of Scotland,
0:52:01 > 0:52:03in the Galloway Forest Park,
0:52:03 > 0:52:05this idea is being tested in a new way.
0:52:07 > 0:52:09Here, miles from the nearest town
0:52:09 > 0:52:11and its light pollution,
0:52:11 > 0:52:14you can come face-to-face with the infinite.
0:52:16 > 0:52:20In 2009, Galloway Forest Park was the first place in Europe
0:52:20 > 0:52:22to be awarded Dark Sky status
0:52:22 > 0:52:25by the International Dark Sky Association.
0:52:26 > 0:52:30Tourist head Keith Muir has seen visitor numbers grow as a result.
0:52:32 > 0:52:33Light and darkness -
0:52:33 > 0:52:37that's how we grew up, if you like, how man has evolved.
0:52:37 > 0:52:41We grew up underneath the stars and we've been guided by the moon
0:52:41 > 0:52:44and the stars for generations, OK?
0:52:44 > 0:52:48We, over the modern, in the last 100 years,
0:52:48 > 0:52:51have evolved much more to rely on light as being our friend.
0:52:51 > 0:52:52Now, we do require light,
0:52:52 > 0:52:55but unfortunately, people aren't controlling light.
0:52:55 > 0:52:58Light is going everywhere and light pollution is one of the biggest
0:52:58 > 0:53:01things that earth has now got and that's big of an issue for us.
0:53:01 > 0:53:04But it's also an issue for our own health and wellbeing.
0:53:04 > 0:53:06There's lots of studies going around saying
0:53:06 > 0:53:08you need a good night's sleep with no light pollution
0:53:08 > 0:53:10to build up all your melatonin
0:53:10 > 0:53:12and all these other elements which we need.
0:53:12 > 0:53:14We're into our third and fourth generations
0:53:14 > 0:53:16have never seen true darkness and that's a bit scary.
0:53:16 > 0:53:19The great thing here is there's no light pollution.
0:53:19 > 0:53:20You can see Andromeda.
0:53:20 > 0:53:23You can see the Milky Way from horizon to horizon.
0:53:23 > 0:53:27You can see over 7,000 stars just with your naked eye.
0:53:31 > 0:53:33And if you give your naked eye a bit of help,
0:53:33 > 0:53:36the views here can be truly mind-blowing.
0:53:37 > 0:53:42Near Whithorn, Mike Alexander runs an unusual bed and breakfast.
0:53:42 > 0:53:44As well as the standard full Scottish,
0:53:44 > 0:53:48this B&B offers guests the chance to view the cosmos
0:53:48 > 0:53:50through a powerful telescope
0:53:50 > 0:53:53kept in a shed at the bottom of the garden.
0:53:55 > 0:53:57This is our main telescope.
0:53:58 > 0:54:01It has a 16-inch mirror at this end
0:54:01 > 0:54:04and you view through here.
0:54:04 > 0:54:06Magnification capability of this telescope
0:54:06 > 0:54:12is between 60 to 600 times magnification.
0:54:12 > 0:54:15A camera at full zoom would be 15 times zoom,
0:54:15 > 0:54:18so we're working at much higher magnifications.
0:54:19 > 0:54:23Tonight is a very special night in the astronomical calendar.
0:54:23 > 0:54:27There will be a rare total eclipse of a super full moon,
0:54:27 > 0:54:31which is when the moon is at its closest point to the earth.
0:54:32 > 0:54:36This creates an eerie effect known as a blood moon.
0:54:36 > 0:54:40It will make for a remarkable night's star gazing,
0:54:40 > 0:54:42if the Scottish weather allows.
0:54:44 > 0:54:45I have my fingers crossed,
0:54:45 > 0:54:48our guests who are here have their fingers crossed,
0:54:48 > 0:54:51and we'll have a great event if it happens.
0:54:55 > 0:54:58According to NASA, this astronomical event
0:54:58 > 0:55:02only happened five times in the whole of the 20th century.
0:55:04 > 0:55:08At 2am, Mike and his guests wake to find the skies clear.
0:55:09 > 0:55:13Conditions are near perfect for viewing a celestial wonder.
0:55:21 > 0:55:24Well, really, it's a gift experience for my wife's retirement.
0:55:24 > 0:55:27My wife retired two years ago and we've come down tonight
0:55:27 > 0:55:32because Mike suggested it would be the perfect way to enjoy
0:55:32 > 0:55:35the experience at this time of the year.
0:55:35 > 0:55:38The eclipse has started.
0:55:38 > 0:55:43We're just seeing the first touch of the moon
0:55:43 > 0:55:45into the shadow of the earth.
0:55:45 > 0:55:50As we focus in on the moon, you can see a very bright moon
0:55:50 > 0:55:51and a definite piece of it missing.
0:55:53 > 0:55:56As the earth moves round to cast its shadow over the moon,
0:55:56 > 0:56:00the sky becomes darker and the stars appear brighter.
0:56:00 > 0:56:01Wow.
0:56:01 > 0:56:04But that's just the start of the show.
0:56:04 > 0:56:07- It's good, isn't it? - Yeah. Fantastic!
0:56:07 > 0:56:11At total eclipse, something extraordinary will happen.
0:56:11 > 0:56:13The moon will change colour.
0:56:14 > 0:56:19Now we're about half an hour away from the total eclipse.
0:56:19 > 0:56:21We're able to see a lot more stars.
0:56:21 > 0:56:23Before, when we first came out,
0:56:23 > 0:56:27just the brightest stars in the constellations were visible
0:56:27 > 0:56:30and now there's many more stars starting to appear.
0:56:30 > 0:56:32When we hit full eclipse,
0:56:32 > 0:56:35it's quite likely we'll be able to see the Milky Way stretching
0:56:35 > 0:56:37right the way across the sky,
0:56:37 > 0:56:39if it's not too hazy.
0:56:39 > 0:56:42Basically, turning the moon off.
0:56:42 > 0:56:45Found the dimmer switch on the moon. Getting rid of it.
0:56:53 > 0:56:58The last time there was a similar eclipse was 33 years ago,
0:56:58 > 0:57:00and that was the year my wife and I got married.
0:57:02 > 0:57:04So quite significant.
0:57:04 > 0:57:06I don't think we'll make the next one, but.
0:57:06 > 0:57:08THEY LAUGH
0:57:08 > 0:57:10You never know.
0:57:10 > 0:57:14It's been a super night, hasn't it? It's so clear.
0:57:18 > 0:57:21As the world becomes more urbanised,
0:57:21 > 0:57:23seeing the Milky Way with the naked eye
0:57:23 > 0:57:27is something that billions of people on earth may never experience.
0:57:32 > 0:57:34Tonight in Galloway, as well as the Milky Way,
0:57:34 > 0:57:38a blood-red super moon shines majestically in the sky.
0:57:43 > 0:57:48All over Scotland, the night skies put on spectacular displays
0:57:48 > 0:57:52and these remote and, crucially, very dark areas of the country
0:57:52 > 0:57:56are some of the best places in the world to witness them.
0:58:01 > 0:58:02Next time:
0:58:02 > 0:58:04Permission to come aboard.
0:58:04 > 0:58:08How are today's Scots facing the challenge of finding a home?
0:58:08 > 0:58:09It's a dry, warm place,
0:58:09 > 0:58:12a roof over the head and that's everything, really.
0:58:12 > 0:58:13It's all you need.
0:58:13 > 0:58:17What is being done to create enough houses for Scotland's future?
0:58:17 > 0:58:20It's really exciting creating a whole new town
0:58:20 > 0:58:22basically by ourselves.
0:58:22 > 0:58:24What does "home" mean to us?
0:58:24 > 0:58:28It's got so much I remember of my younger days
0:58:28 > 0:58:30and my husband's younger days.