The Southwest Islands

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05The sun rises on Japan.

0:00:07 > 0:00:10More than 6,000 islands on the edge of the Pacific.

0:00:16 > 0:00:20Life here is at the mercy of Earth's most powerful elemental forces.

0:00:27 > 0:00:30From the wilds of the frozen north...

0:00:32 > 0:00:33BIRDS SQUAWK

0:00:33 > 0:00:36..to the subtropical warmth of the south.

0:00:39 > 0:00:42Animals along this chain of islands have had to adapt

0:00:42 > 0:00:44in unique and sometimes bizarre ways.

0:00:52 > 0:00:53Throughout this land,

0:00:53 > 0:00:56people have developed an extraordinary relationship

0:00:56 > 0:00:58with the natural world.

0:00:58 > 0:01:01BEAR GROWLS

0:01:07 > 0:01:09Trying to capture its fleeting beauty...

0:01:13 > 0:01:15..and tame its spirit.

0:01:16 > 0:01:20But these islands remain wild, mysterious and magical.

0:01:22 > 0:01:25This is Japan.

0:01:25 > 0:01:28BIRDS SQUAWK

0:01:32 > 0:01:36In Japan's far south, there's a chain of tiny islands

0:01:36 > 0:01:39stretching for 750 miles towards the tropics.

0:01:42 > 0:01:46Isolated in the vast Pacific Ocean,

0:01:46 > 0:01:48these islands are ruled by the sea.

0:01:57 > 0:02:00Here, you have to live life with a different spirit.

0:02:03 > 0:02:05And the further south you go...

0:02:05 > 0:02:07the stranger life seems to become.

0:02:10 > 0:02:13SHE SPEAKS JAPANESE

0:02:25 > 0:02:29At the top of the chain lies the island of Yakushima.

0:02:36 > 0:02:40A narrow channel is all that separates it from the mainland.

0:02:42 > 0:02:44It's like a lost world.

0:02:53 > 0:02:57Its steep slopes are mostly covered in forest

0:02:57 > 0:03:00and some of the trees are thousands of years old.

0:03:11 > 0:03:13A family of Japanese macaques.

0:03:15 > 0:03:18They share this island with another animal...

0:03:19 > 0:03:20..sika deer.

0:03:31 > 0:03:33Deer and macaques live all over Japan...

0:03:35 > 0:03:40..but here on Yakushima, the two species live side-by-side.

0:03:44 > 0:03:48And the rowdier young monkeys do something very unusual.

0:03:55 > 0:03:58They ride on the deers' backs.

0:04:01 > 0:04:03MACAQUE SQUEAKS

0:04:13 > 0:04:17Why they do it, and why the deer put up with it, is not entirely clear...

0:04:21 > 0:04:23..but it only happens here on Yakushima.

0:04:30 > 0:04:33There comes a point when the deer have had enough.

0:04:35 > 0:04:37MACAQUE SQUEAKS

0:04:43 > 0:04:46But there are advantages to hanging out with monkeys.

0:04:55 > 0:04:58Every day, the macaques forage up in the trees.

0:04:59 > 0:05:05The deer listen for their feeding calls and follow them around,

0:05:05 > 0:05:06picking up what they drop.

0:05:08 > 0:05:10It's food they could never reach themselves.

0:05:21 > 0:05:23It's an easy-going relationship.

0:05:24 > 0:05:28But even the best of friends can fall out over something trivial,

0:05:28 > 0:05:30like a stolen leaf.

0:05:30 > 0:05:31MACAQUE SQUEALS

0:05:37 > 0:05:38MACAQUE SQUEALS

0:05:43 > 0:05:48No-one really knows why these two animals have such a close bond...

0:05:51 > 0:05:52..but strange things can happen

0:05:52 > 0:05:55when you are cast away on isolated islands.

0:06:04 > 0:06:07Enormous volcanic forces created Yakushima

0:06:07 > 0:06:09and many of the islands beyond it.

0:06:18 > 0:06:22The sea level rose and Yakushima was cut off from the rest of Japan.

0:06:29 > 0:06:31The deer and the macaques were marooned together

0:06:31 > 0:06:33in this odd little world,

0:06:33 > 0:06:35where life could follow different rules.

0:06:47 > 0:06:51This part of Japan lies along a great rift in the Earth's crust.

0:06:52 > 0:06:56It's one of the most geologically unstable places in the world.

0:07:01 > 0:07:04It has 18 active volcanoes.

0:07:10 > 0:07:12VOLCANO RUMBLES

0:07:19 > 0:07:21Some of the largest in the world.

0:07:29 > 0:07:31VOLCANO RUMBLES

0:07:41 > 0:07:44Sakurajima is Japan's most active volcano.

0:07:44 > 0:07:46VOLCANO RUMBLES

0:07:47 > 0:07:51It has been erupting nonstop for the last 60 years.

0:08:00 > 0:08:04Even so, over half a million people live next to this smoking giant,

0:08:04 > 0:08:08never quite sure when it might get really violent.

0:08:08 > 0:08:09BIRD CAWS

0:08:13 > 0:08:15VOLCANO RUMBLES

0:08:21 > 0:08:25Every few weeks, it belches out thousands of tonnes of ash,

0:08:25 > 0:08:26covering the city.

0:08:44 > 0:08:47It might not seem like the ideal place to live...

0:08:48 > 0:08:53..but with a few simple precautions, life can be almost normal.

0:09:00 > 0:09:03Rocks the size of tennis balls can rain down at any time.

0:09:05 > 0:09:07It gives the school run an element of peril...

0:09:09 > 0:09:11..but these children are used to it.

0:09:26 > 0:09:28JAPANESE SPOKEN OVER TANNOY

0:09:35 > 0:09:37The school day always begins

0:09:37 > 0:09:40with a sweep-up of last night's shower of ash.

0:09:45 > 0:09:49Despite the risks, people have been living in the shadow of Sakurajima

0:09:49 > 0:09:51for thousands of years...

0:09:51 > 0:09:53but there are advantages.

0:09:56 > 0:10:00The volcanic soil is fertile and farms crowd the lower slopes...

0:10:02 > 0:10:05..but the volcanic warmth brings unexpected benefits.

0:10:08 > 0:10:11On this local beach, nobody goes swimming.

0:10:12 > 0:10:14The water could kill you.

0:10:17 > 0:10:18It's hot enough to brew tea.

0:10:24 > 0:10:28There's not much life in the sea around here,

0:10:28 > 0:10:31but the resourceful people of this island have found a way

0:10:31 > 0:10:33to create a paradise.

0:10:42 > 0:10:44A steaming sand bath.

0:10:53 > 0:10:55People travel from all over Japan

0:10:55 > 0:10:58to be buried up to their necks in hot sand.

0:11:00 > 0:11:02They've been doing it for hundreds of years.

0:11:09 > 0:11:13They say it improves circulation, and restores health and vitality.

0:11:18 > 0:11:21If nothing else, it's a nice lie down.

0:11:32 > 0:11:34When you live next to a volcano,

0:11:34 > 0:11:37you might have to deal with its dangers,

0:11:37 > 0:11:39but you can still relish its delights.

0:11:45 > 0:11:47Heading south along Japan's island chain,

0:11:47 > 0:11:51life becomes more and more influenced by the sea.

0:11:56 > 0:11:58It brings something to these islands

0:11:58 > 0:12:00that affects everything that lives here.

0:12:07 > 0:12:09The Kuroshio Current -

0:12:09 > 0:12:13one of the most powerful ocean currents in the world.

0:12:14 > 0:12:16Japan's own Gulf Stream.

0:12:18 > 0:12:20It surges up from the equator

0:12:20 > 0:12:24and delivers 50 million tonnes of warm water every second...

0:12:28 > 0:12:31..and brings a touch of tropical magic...

0:12:44 > 0:12:47..creating the perfect conditions for coral reefs.

0:12:58 > 0:13:01It's only the warmth of the Kuroshio Current

0:13:01 > 0:13:05that allows coral to grow this far north in the Pacific Ocean.

0:13:16 > 0:13:19The current also brings nutrients from the deep.

0:13:37 > 0:13:42There's one very small resident who never strays far from the reef.

0:13:42 > 0:13:45He's a bluestreak cleaner wrasse...

0:13:45 > 0:13:47and he leads a very busy life.

0:13:55 > 0:13:59He eats parasites and dead skin from other fish...

0:14:00 > 0:14:03..but he has to wait for them to come his way.

0:14:07 > 0:14:09And right now, no-one is stopping long enough

0:14:09 > 0:14:11to give him as much as a nibble.

0:14:23 > 0:14:26But then he spots something worth chasing...

0:14:30 > 0:14:31..a batfish.

0:14:38 > 0:14:42Like a customer at a spa, the batfish lies back

0:14:42 > 0:14:43and waits for attention.

0:14:46 > 0:14:47It opens its gills

0:14:47 > 0:14:51and the cleaner wrasse bustles in to begin the treatment.

0:14:56 > 0:15:00The batfish even changes colour...

0:15:00 > 0:15:03probably to make parasites more visible.

0:15:08 > 0:15:11Someone else has arrived at the reef.

0:15:12 > 0:15:14The batfish is abandoned.

0:15:19 > 0:15:21There's a visitor from the open ocean

0:15:21 > 0:15:24that's worth dropping everything for.

0:15:32 > 0:15:36A manta ray, two metres long,

0:15:36 > 0:15:39has come back to a favourite stretch of reef.

0:15:52 > 0:15:55He signals to the manta by flicking his tail...

0:15:59 > 0:16:03..and the giant responds by unfurling itself for cleaning.

0:16:09 > 0:16:13The manta keeps its feeding lobes rolled up while it swims...

0:16:18 > 0:16:21..but a thorough clean keeps them parasite-free.

0:16:40 > 0:16:43This enormous fish would never visit Japan

0:16:43 > 0:16:48if it wasn't for the warmth that bathes the island chain...

0:16:48 > 0:16:51and the helpful services of this resourceful little wrasse.

0:16:57 > 0:17:01The Kuroshio Current brings more dangerous animals to the islands.

0:17:17 > 0:17:18Sea snakes.

0:17:20 > 0:17:24At one time, these snakes' ancestors lived on dry land.

0:17:25 > 0:17:27They must still visit the surface to breathe.

0:17:33 > 0:17:36But they are beautifully adapted to life at sea,

0:17:36 > 0:17:39hunting for fish around the island reefs.

0:17:45 > 0:17:48They have some of the most toxic venom of any animal,

0:17:48 > 0:17:50so they don't have many predators.

0:17:54 > 0:17:57But as they forage off the coast of one small island,

0:17:57 > 0:18:00their greatest nemesis is approaching.

0:18:14 > 0:18:19Yoko and Setsuko are hunters and they have a fearsome reputation.

0:18:24 > 0:18:28These two 70-year-olds are on a shopping trip like no other.

0:18:37 > 0:18:40Yoko and Setsuko live on the tiny island of Kudaka.

0:18:43 > 0:18:47It's only three miles across and, with limited space on land,

0:18:47 > 0:18:50the locals look to the sea to provide.

0:19:05 > 0:19:08As the sun sets, the ladies' prey is approaching.

0:19:18 > 0:19:20On certain summer nights,

0:19:20 > 0:19:23venomous sea snakes move towards the island

0:19:23 > 0:19:25and gather in coastal caves...

0:19:27 > 0:19:30..looking for shelter and fresh water to drink.

0:19:39 > 0:19:43But coming ashore on this island is extremely risky.

0:20:06 > 0:20:10It takes some nerve to wade in with no protective clothing.

0:20:12 > 0:20:16Sea snake venom can be ten times more powerful than a rattlesnake's.

0:20:37 > 0:20:40Yoko has been hunting snakes for 40 years.

0:20:40 > 0:20:43It's a skill that's been passed down

0:20:43 > 0:20:46the generations here for at least five centuries.

0:21:23 > 0:21:26The snakes will be dried in this smokehouse

0:21:26 > 0:21:29using a secret process known only by the hunters.

0:21:37 > 0:21:39Then they go into a special soup.

0:21:45 > 0:21:49The catching and eating of sea snakes is a very old tradition

0:21:49 > 0:21:53on the island of Kudaka, where the sea provides more than the land.

0:21:55 > 0:21:56THEY SPEAK JAPANESE

0:22:00 > 0:22:05It's part of a rich island culture that goes back many centuries.

0:22:11 > 0:22:16Kudaka is just off the bigger island of Okinawa,

0:22:16 > 0:22:18right in the centre of the island chain.

0:22:26 > 0:22:30The seas are warm and bountiful, and the climate is perfect.

0:22:39 > 0:22:42In the Okinawan village of Ogimi,

0:22:42 > 0:22:44you are still considered young at 80.

0:22:46 > 0:22:48Many people here live well beyond 100.

0:23:03 > 0:23:07Okinawa is famous as a place where people live longer,

0:23:07 > 0:23:10an achievement worth celebrating.

0:23:30 > 0:23:3396-year-old Sumiko reckons it's all about staying active.

0:23:35 > 0:23:37She cycles to her vegetable garden every day.

0:23:41 > 0:23:44Others have their own theories.

0:23:50 > 0:23:52THEY LAUGH

0:23:52 > 0:23:57But the biggest influence of all, they say, is the Okinawan diet.

0:23:57 > 0:23:59Maybe this is what keeps them young.

0:24:10 > 0:24:13But there's one ingredient in their diet that can't be grown on land.

0:24:15 > 0:24:18It's another gift from the bountiful sea.

0:24:24 > 0:24:27Around Okinawa, the warm Kuroshio Current supports

0:24:27 > 0:24:30one of the strangest ways of farming in the world.

0:24:38 > 0:24:42The Tsuhako family have made their living from the sea for generations.

0:25:06 > 0:25:08It's harvest time on the family farm.

0:25:08 > 0:25:10ENGINE RUMBLES

0:25:32 > 0:25:34This is a field of mozuku.

0:25:36 > 0:25:38It's just humble seaweed,

0:25:38 > 0:25:41but it has a reputation as a miracle super food.

0:25:48 > 0:25:49It grows naturally,

0:25:49 > 0:25:53but Okinawan farmers have set out an ingenious system of nets

0:25:53 > 0:25:55to help it take root...

0:25:56 > 0:25:59..and they have a very practical way of harvesting it.

0:26:12 > 0:26:16Mozuku seaweed is one of the most sought-after dishes in all Japan...

0:26:18 > 0:26:20..so every strand is precious.

0:26:31 > 0:26:34This farming still relies on traditional Japanese wisdom.

0:26:36 > 0:26:39It's what they call satoumi.

0:26:40 > 0:26:42If you work harmoniously with nature,

0:26:42 > 0:26:44the sea will always provide.

0:26:49 > 0:26:52This is a man-made environment...

0:26:52 > 0:26:55but strange creatures roam the mozuku beds.

0:26:59 > 0:27:03Sea slugs. Some crawl...

0:27:04 > 0:27:06..while others fly.

0:27:19 > 0:27:24This harmonious way of farming only works if the conditions are perfect.

0:27:26 > 0:27:31Warm water, plenty of nutrients...

0:27:31 > 0:27:33and a wide, shallow sea.

0:27:42 > 0:27:47It's only here in Okinawa that they can grow mozuku

0:27:47 > 0:27:49on such a massive scale.

0:28:05 > 0:28:07On these central islands,

0:28:07 > 0:28:11the bountiful sea provides a charmed way of life.

0:28:17 > 0:28:20But further south, life takes a different turn.

0:28:25 > 0:28:29Islands become further apart in the vastness of the ocean.

0:28:36 > 0:28:38With fewer human inhabitants,

0:28:38 > 0:28:43these are some of Japan's most remote island outposts.

0:28:48 > 0:28:51Increasing isolation brings a whole new set of challenges...

0:28:54 > 0:28:57..and life has found ever more inventive ways to get by.

0:29:10 > 0:29:12One-and-a-half million years ago,

0:29:12 > 0:29:15the island of Iriomote was joined to the mainland.

0:29:20 > 0:29:25When sea levels rose and cut it off, one animal was left stranded here.

0:29:34 > 0:29:36Its descendants have been scratching a living in the island's

0:29:36 > 0:29:39dense forests ever since.

0:29:49 > 0:29:51A Ryukyu wild boar.

0:29:53 > 0:29:56It spends its day grubbing through the forest soils,

0:29:56 > 0:29:58digging up worms and roots,

0:29:58 > 0:30:00just like wild boar the world over.

0:30:04 > 0:30:07But life on this island is not always easy.

0:30:09 > 0:30:11It might look like paradise,

0:30:11 > 0:30:14but sometimes it's a struggle to find enough to eat.

0:30:26 > 0:30:28In the face of hardship,

0:30:28 > 0:30:31something remarkable happened to the Ryukyu wild boar.

0:30:33 > 0:30:35Over the generations, it has shrunk

0:30:35 > 0:30:37to half the size of its mainland cousins.

0:30:40 > 0:30:43When you're small, you need less energy to survive.

0:30:49 > 0:30:53They're now just knee-high - the tiniest wild boar in the world.

0:30:58 > 0:31:01But it still has a phenomenal sense of smell.

0:31:04 > 0:31:05BOAR SNIFFS

0:31:11 > 0:31:13It's alerted this little pig to a valuable bounty.

0:31:28 > 0:31:31A female green turtle has come back to the very beach

0:31:31 > 0:31:33where she was born.

0:31:36 > 0:31:37She's here to lay her eggs.

0:31:51 > 0:31:53Then she's off, back to the sea.

0:32:10 > 0:32:12A heavily pregnant and very hungry sow

0:32:12 > 0:32:15has come to the beach looking for eggs.

0:32:21 > 0:32:23But she's not the only one.

0:32:25 > 0:32:27A male is already rifling the nest.

0:32:37 > 0:32:40He certainly won't let her share.

0:32:40 > 0:32:42She can only eat when he's had his fill.

0:32:50 > 0:32:51BIRD CAWS

0:32:57 > 0:33:00But each nest can contain more than 100 eggs...

0:33:01 > 0:33:03..so there's enough to go around.

0:33:14 > 0:33:16Cast away on these remote islands,

0:33:16 > 0:33:19you have to be extra resourceful to survive.

0:33:28 > 0:33:32On the tiniest islands, the challenges get more extreme.

0:33:34 > 0:33:37These are places where even pint-sized pigs can't survive.

0:33:39 > 0:33:41Islands like Tarama have been overrun

0:33:41 > 0:33:43by very different life forms...

0:33:45 > 0:33:46..creatures of the sea.

0:33:54 > 0:33:57Blueberry hermit crabs,

0:33:57 > 0:34:01tropical crabs that have settled on these little islands.

0:34:11 > 0:34:13These crabs don't grow shells of their own.

0:34:13 > 0:34:17They make do with cast-offs from other sea creatures

0:34:17 > 0:34:20and they can only grow as big as their borrowed shell will allow.

0:34:23 > 0:34:26Deep in the forest, there's a very different crab...

0:34:29 > 0:34:31..one that only comes out at night.

0:34:43 > 0:34:45A robber crab...

0:34:45 > 0:34:48the largest land crab in the world.

0:34:51 > 0:34:54On these islands, before people arrived,

0:34:54 > 0:34:58there were no big mammals and a humble crab could become king.

0:35:03 > 0:35:05They've become giants.

0:35:14 > 0:35:19Some can live for 60 years and grow to nearly a metre across.

0:35:23 > 0:35:25This female is only about 12 years old...

0:35:27 > 0:35:29..so she still has a way to go

0:35:29 > 0:35:32before she's a true colossus of the crab world.

0:35:34 > 0:35:37But right now, she has a more pressing challenge.

0:35:39 > 0:35:41For several weeks, she's been nurturing

0:35:41 > 0:35:43thousands of eggs under her tail.

0:35:49 > 0:35:53But her babies need to start their lives in the ocean...

0:35:56 > 0:35:57..so this young mum needs to make

0:35:57 > 0:36:00the most important journey of her life...

0:36:02 > 0:36:05..and there are some very modern obstacles in her way.

0:36:09 > 0:36:12CAR RUMBLES

0:36:12 > 0:36:14DOG BARKS

0:36:14 > 0:36:17There's a small village between her forest home and the ocean.

0:36:23 > 0:36:25She must get to the sea in time

0:36:25 > 0:36:27for one of the highest tides of the year.

0:36:43 > 0:36:47But when she reaches the shore, she faces a dangerous situation.

0:36:55 > 0:36:58Robber crabs have become so big and heavy they can't swim.

0:37:07 > 0:37:09She needs to summon her nerve

0:37:09 > 0:37:12and wade out far enough to release her precious eggs.

0:37:14 > 0:37:17If she gets swept away, she'll drown.

0:37:28 > 0:37:30She's done it.

0:37:30 > 0:37:33She can get back to the safety of dry land...

0:37:35 > 0:37:37..leaving her eggs to hatch in the warmth of the sea.

0:37:46 > 0:37:48But all this warmth comes at a price.

0:37:52 > 0:37:55Every summer, these Japanese islands

0:37:55 > 0:37:58are swept by violent tropical storms.

0:38:01 > 0:38:06They're born far out to sea and some grow into typhoons.

0:38:08 > 0:38:09The hurricanes of the Pacific.

0:38:15 > 0:38:17They draw energy from the warmth of the tropical sea

0:38:17 > 0:38:20and their power is enormous.

0:38:23 > 0:38:26If you're going to survive, you have to be fully prepared.

0:38:32 > 0:38:36Over thousands of years, people have built up defences.

0:38:37 > 0:38:40They've designed homes with high walls and sturdy roofs.

0:38:47 > 0:38:50Houses are decorated with Shisa lion dogs,

0:38:50 > 0:38:54ready to ward off evil spirits and impending disaster.

0:38:58 > 0:38:59All along the southwest islands,

0:38:59 > 0:39:04people and animals batten down the hatches as the storms build.

0:39:15 > 0:39:18In the forests, the macaques run for cover

0:39:18 > 0:39:19and huddle together for safety.

0:39:32 > 0:39:35But at the most south-westerly point of the island chain,

0:39:35 > 0:39:39one animal has come up with a more ingenious survival strategy.

0:39:44 > 0:39:48Yonaguni, 750 miles from the mainland,

0:39:48 > 0:39:52and often the first island to feel the full force of a typhoon.

0:40:04 > 0:40:09This far-flung speck of land is home to a very resourceful caterpillar.

0:40:27 > 0:40:28THUNDER RUMBLES

0:40:36 > 0:40:39It has built a typhoon-resistant shelter...

0:40:40 > 0:40:44..an ingenious design of leaves and silk,

0:40:44 > 0:40:47woven together into a perfect defence against wind and rain.

0:40:55 > 0:41:00When they hit land, typhoon winds can reach 150mph.

0:42:14 > 0:42:16The giant cocoon has withstood the elements.

0:42:50 > 0:42:52The caterpillar has been transformed

0:42:52 > 0:42:55into one of the most striking animals on earth...

0:43:01 > 0:43:02..an Atlas moth.

0:43:09 > 0:43:12She has a wingspan the size of a dinner plate.

0:43:14 > 0:43:16The largest moth in the world.

0:43:20 > 0:43:22Now that the typhoons have passed,

0:43:22 > 0:43:27she's come out for one purpose only - to attract a mate.

0:43:28 > 0:43:31She gives off pheromones from her tail.

0:43:36 > 0:43:38A male has picked up her scent.

0:43:49 > 0:43:51He'll fly three miles to find her.

0:44:03 > 0:44:06Once they've mated, their job is done.

0:44:08 > 0:44:11They don't even have mouths, so they will never eat.

0:44:22 > 0:44:24They only have a few days to live...

0:44:26 > 0:44:29..but they have defeated the typhoon.

0:44:39 > 0:44:42This is a place of extreme survival,

0:44:42 > 0:44:46where the ocean, in all its moods, drives everything.

0:44:59 > 0:45:04Nowhere is that more evident than at the very furthest extent of Japan.

0:45:15 > 0:45:18Just below the surface lies a great mystery.

0:45:24 > 0:45:28The waters around Yonaguni are so remote,

0:45:28 > 0:45:31they've only been explored in the last few decades.

0:45:56 > 0:46:01In 1986, a local diver discovered something totally unexpected.

0:46:06 > 0:46:09He noticed strange features in the rock.

0:46:15 > 0:46:19He saw straight lines and flat surfaces.

0:46:30 > 0:46:34Here was what looked like a colossal underwater monument.

0:46:38 > 0:46:45A terraced sandstone pyramid, 270 metres long and 25 metres high.

0:46:53 > 0:46:56But who or what could have made it?

0:47:05 > 0:47:08Were those steps created for people to walk on?

0:47:15 > 0:47:18Some now believe these lines and surfaces

0:47:18 > 0:47:20were formed by nature alone.

0:47:26 > 0:47:28The simple shearing of rock

0:47:28 > 0:47:31in an area known for tremors and earthquakes.

0:47:34 > 0:47:37But others are convinced that this is a monument

0:47:37 > 0:47:39built by a lost civilisation...

0:47:42 > 0:47:45..10,000 years ago, when sea levels were lower.

0:47:47 > 0:47:50If it is, this Atlantis of the Pacific

0:47:50 > 0:47:53would rewrite the history of these islands.

0:48:03 > 0:48:05We may never know the truth.

0:48:11 > 0:48:14But whether it was shaped by a lost civilisation

0:48:14 > 0:48:16or immense forces of nature,

0:48:16 > 0:48:20in the end, it was swallowed by the rising sea.

0:48:27 > 0:48:31All along this chain of islands, the sea is ultimately in control.

0:48:37 > 0:48:41But life has adapted to its fickle ways...

0:48:41 > 0:48:44making the most of opportunities while it can.

0:49:03 > 0:49:06We're in a cave by the sea.

0:49:06 > 0:49:09There's a 70-year-old lady down there catching sea snakes...

0:49:12 > 0:49:14..with her bare hands!

0:49:17 > 0:49:19One of the team's more unusual experiences

0:49:19 > 0:49:23was on the island of Kudaka filming sea snake hunting.

0:49:30 > 0:49:34A privileged insight into the lives of two extraordinary women...

0:49:36 > 0:49:38..who maintain an ancient tradition.

0:49:48 > 0:49:50The tiny island of Kudaka is just a short ferry ride

0:49:50 > 0:49:52from the main island of Okinawa.

0:49:54 > 0:49:58Producer David Marks and cameraman Robin Cox are keen to meet

0:49:58 > 0:50:00one of the island's legendary snake hunters...

0:50:02 > 0:50:04..72-year-old Yoko Fukuchi.

0:50:04 > 0:50:05THEY SPEAK JAPANESE

0:50:13 > 0:50:15"You're very cute," that's what she's saying.

0:50:18 > 0:50:20It's a very quiet island.

0:50:20 > 0:50:22Fewer than 200 people live here.

0:50:26 > 0:50:29It's a place with a rich history and culture.

0:50:38 > 0:50:42Rituals like this are performed all year round to appease the gods

0:50:42 > 0:50:43and ward off misfortune.

0:50:43 > 0:50:45THEY SING

0:50:47 > 0:50:51Yoko and her friend Setsuko are not only hunters,

0:50:51 > 0:50:54they were once Kaminchu, priestesses of high status

0:50:54 > 0:50:57with special privileges to hunt snakes.

0:51:00 > 0:51:04They were made Kaminchu on this same patch of ground in 1978.

0:51:08 > 0:51:11The initiation ceremony was called Izaiho

0:51:11 > 0:51:15and this was the last time it was ever performed.

0:51:17 > 0:51:20As Japan has modernised, many traditions were lost.

0:51:22 > 0:51:24After more than five centuries,

0:51:24 > 0:51:28Yoko and Setsuko are now the last in their line

0:51:28 > 0:51:29who know the old ways.

0:51:33 > 0:51:35Sea snakes have been hunted here for centuries.

0:51:37 > 0:51:39It's another tradition that may soon be lost.

0:52:00 > 0:52:04Despite their age, Yoko and Setsuko are the only ones left

0:52:04 > 0:52:06on the island who still hunt.

0:52:15 > 0:52:18The team has been granted special permission to film them,

0:52:18 > 0:52:22but they have to work in the dark so they don't scare off the snakes.

0:52:24 > 0:52:26(I can see about 20 snakes in here.)

0:52:31 > 0:52:33(She gets right to the back of the cave.)

0:52:34 > 0:52:37For Yoko and Setsuko, this ancient way of hunting

0:52:37 > 0:52:39requires intense concentration.

0:52:46 > 0:52:49The nearest hospital is across the water in Okinawa,

0:52:49 > 0:52:52so if the ladies were bitten they probably wouldn't survive.

0:52:58 > 0:53:01As the snakes swim in on the surge of water,

0:53:01 > 0:53:03the ladies pick them out with their torches.

0:53:13 > 0:53:15But years of experience mean

0:53:15 > 0:53:18they can sense the movement of the snakes in the dark.

0:53:23 > 0:53:25Yoko's poised to strike.

0:53:34 > 0:53:37She's got a massive snake in her hands.

0:53:39 > 0:53:43The team want to get shots of Yoko actually catching the snakes,

0:53:43 > 0:53:46but with such a cramped space to work in

0:53:46 > 0:53:48they need some special technology.

0:53:50 > 0:53:52What does it say?

0:53:52 > 0:53:53It's not saying anything.

0:53:55 > 0:53:59Basically, we're trying to get the camera and my smartphone to

0:53:59 > 0:54:02talk to each other so we can put the camera in the water where the

0:54:02 > 0:54:05sea snakes are, and we can turn it on and off and focus and do all

0:54:05 > 0:54:09the things we need it to do with it, but at the moment it's not working.

0:54:09 > 0:54:11Well, she got another one.

0:54:11 > 0:54:15So while we've got all this ridiculous technological nonsense

0:54:15 > 0:54:18going on, Yoko is just happily plucking the odd snake

0:54:18 > 0:54:20out of the water every five or ten minutes.

0:54:21 > 0:54:27It's working, yay. Look at that. It looks good.

0:54:27 > 0:54:29With the technical problems solved,

0:54:29 > 0:54:31someone has to actually get in the cave.

0:54:33 > 0:54:36David has volunteered, but he'll need some protection.

0:54:36 > 0:54:39Yoko is not wearing any gloves.

0:54:39 > 0:54:40No, Yoko doesn't wear gloves,

0:54:40 > 0:54:43but I'm not putting my hands in water with sea snakes

0:54:43 > 0:54:45crawling everywhere without any gloves on.

0:54:48 > 0:54:50YOKO LAUGHS

0:54:50 > 0:54:52What's so funny?

0:54:52 > 0:54:53Why are you laughing?

0:54:53 > 0:54:55Why are you laughing, Yoko?

0:55:00 > 0:55:02When the night's hunting is over,

0:55:02 > 0:55:06the team discover they only got a few shots of Yoko's legs.

0:55:22 > 0:55:25The next day, the team are invited to Yoko's house.

0:55:25 > 0:55:28She's prepared snake soup for them to eat.

0:55:34 > 0:55:36We're filming...

0:55:36 > 0:55:39snake and now it's time to eat snake.

0:55:41 > 0:55:45I'm resisting the urge to say it tastes like chicken.

0:55:45 > 0:55:47It doesn't taste like chicken.

0:55:47 > 0:55:49It's pretty smoky, isn't it?

0:55:49 > 0:55:50It's a bit snaky.

0:55:56 > 0:55:59For the team, it's an unusual meal, but it's a great honour.

0:55:59 > 0:56:03This dish was once reserved only for the island's kings.

0:56:09 > 0:56:12There is only one night of filming left.

0:56:12 > 0:56:16The team haven't yet got the shots they need of Yoko hunting,

0:56:16 > 0:56:20but they have discovered a second entrance to the cramped cave.

0:56:24 > 0:56:28Unlike the ladies, cameraman Robin is taking all precautions.

0:56:29 > 0:56:30Put the hood on. There you go!

0:56:32 > 0:56:35He's squeezed himself into a tiny

0:56:35 > 0:56:38hole and is now surrounded by venomous sea snakes,

0:56:38 > 0:56:42but he's finally in a position to capture the action.

0:56:57 > 0:57:01OK, she just got a pretty big snake.

0:57:01 > 0:57:04Just saw it just swimming underneath my feet here

0:57:04 > 0:57:08and then it went in a crack in the rock and she came and grabbed it,

0:57:08 > 0:57:10caught it and stuffed it in her bag,

0:57:10 > 0:57:12so I think we've got the shots that we were waiting for

0:57:12 > 0:57:15and I think I can get out of here now, please.

0:57:20 > 0:57:24It's been a successful night for Yoko and Setsuko too.

0:57:27 > 0:57:29- That was astonishing.- Pretty amazing.

0:57:32 > 0:57:34I mean, can you imagine...?

0:57:34 > 0:57:38My mum, most evenings, has a glass of wine or two and watches some telly.

0:57:38 > 0:57:40You can't imagine your mum knee-deep in water,

0:57:40 > 0:57:44writhing with deadly snakes, picking them up and putting them in a bag.

0:58:02 > 0:58:07Next time, we head to Hokkaido - Japan's northern frontier.

0:58:09 > 0:58:12Life is ruled by its extreme seasons.

0:58:15 > 0:58:16Survival means being tough...

0:58:16 > 0:58:18BIRDS SQUAWK

0:58:20 > 0:58:22BIRD SQUAWKS

0:58:22 > 0:58:24..and forging unlikely alliances.

0:58:27 > 0:58:29It's Japan's wildest island.