0:00:05 > 0:00:06INDISTINCT
0:00:06 > 0:00:11Smell is our most primitive and least understood sense.
0:00:16 > 0:00:21Perfume manipulates that sense, instantly reminding us
0:00:21 > 0:00:24of good times past, and speaking of glamour
0:00:24 > 0:00:26and sophistication to those who get close.
0:00:31 > 0:00:35Ohhh! Doesn't disappoint.
0:00:35 > 0:00:39Fragrance exploits our feelings so successfully,
0:00:39 > 0:00:44it's become a multi-billion dollar global industry.
0:00:44 > 0:00:47You know what it says. We all know what it says. But what does it REALLY say?
0:00:47 > 0:00:51But with more brands making more scent than ever before,
0:00:51 > 0:00:54perfumes that used to whisper now have to shout.
0:00:55 > 0:01:01It is an idea of opening a door to a masterpiece.
0:01:02 > 0:01:05Today, the marketing's as important as the smell,
0:01:05 > 0:01:08and perfumers face a challenge.
0:01:08 > 0:01:10Ladies, fragrance today? Try Versace?
0:01:10 > 0:01:14Burberry... Burberry Sheer... Burberry... Burberry Sheer...
0:01:14 > 0:01:18Can they convince a new generation that fragrance is liquid luxury?
0:01:20 > 0:01:22Or has the romance already evaporated?
0:01:33 > 0:01:36CHURCH BELLS RING
0:01:40 > 0:01:45In springtime, Paris smells of new leaves, moped exhaust
0:01:45 > 0:01:49and un-tipped cigarettes smoked defiantly in public places.
0:01:50 > 0:01:51But not here.
0:01:53 > 0:01:57The House of Guerlain is French perfumery personified.
0:01:57 > 0:01:59Bonjour, Madame.
0:01:59 > 0:02:02Guerlain sell grand perfumes made to ancient recipes,
0:02:02 > 0:02:05issuing new ones when they see fit.
0:02:05 > 0:02:07Which isn't often.
0:02:11 > 0:02:14They rely on mothers with a sense of tradition
0:02:14 > 0:02:18bringing their daughters to the town house.
0:02:19 > 0:02:23Blanche is 12, ready for her first fragrance.
0:02:25 > 0:02:30The ladies of the first floor salon don't do flirting or squirting.
0:02:30 > 0:02:32They're here to gently shepherd.
0:02:32 > 0:02:36- Bonjour.- Bonjour, mademoiselle. Bonjour, madame.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- Bienvenue.- Merci.
0:02:49 > 0:02:52There's monumental perfume available,
0:02:52 > 0:02:54dark and musky,
0:02:54 > 0:02:58created before the telephone or the aeroplane.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01But it can wait until Blanche is older.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08She chooses a classic from 2006.
0:03:08 > 0:03:13Violet and raspberry notes unmask a hint of orange blossom,
0:03:13 > 0:03:15sitting on a base of iris and tonka bean.
0:03:15 > 0:03:19It's called Insolence.
0:03:23 > 0:03:26In the twilight, Blanche returns to her arrondissement,
0:03:26 > 0:03:30probably unaware that in the big shop on the grand boulevard,
0:03:30 > 0:03:33she was the most important customer of the day.
0:03:35 > 0:03:37DOG BARKS
0:03:41 > 0:03:45The Guerlain way is to get them young and keep them for life.
0:03:45 > 0:03:47It's a philosophy that's served
0:03:47 > 0:03:51Master perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain well.
0:03:53 > 0:03:57I'm not able to live without perfume and without horses.
0:04:01 > 0:04:06His family have made fragrances for 183 years.
0:04:06 > 0:04:11There have been four generation of Guerlain working in the company.
0:04:13 > 0:04:19That's my grandfather, who was my teacher for perfume.
0:04:22 > 0:04:24Take a seat.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29Where are my dogs? Ah.
0:04:32 > 0:04:39The first fragrance I remember, it was in 1941, I think,
0:04:39 > 0:04:43when the Germans arrived in Paris.
0:04:44 > 0:04:50I was three years old. It was my birthday.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53My nanny told my mother,
0:04:53 > 0:04:58"You must all the same give a cake
0:04:58 > 0:05:01"to your son for his birthday."
0:05:02 > 0:05:05And it was a strawberry tart.
0:05:06 > 0:05:12And I still have in the nose the smell of the strawberry tart.
0:05:16 > 0:05:24Always, women have always been inspiration and that's what my grandfather taught me.
0:05:24 > 0:05:28You create perfume for woman with whom you are in love.
0:05:31 > 0:05:35You know, the most beautiful girl in the world,
0:05:35 > 0:05:39when she goes to see her lover,
0:05:39 > 0:05:44she if possible gets off her dress,
0:05:44 > 0:05:48takes off her make-up.
0:05:48 > 0:05:52What's left? The charm of her voice and her perfume.
0:05:54 > 0:06:01A woman can be ugly in day time and wonderful at night time.
0:06:10 > 0:06:14Guerlain fragrances make a powerful statement, quietly.
0:06:14 > 0:06:16Frenchness in liquid form.
0:06:20 > 0:06:27Here you have the letters of the different Presidents de la Republique.
0:06:30 > 0:06:32Mr Sarkozy over there.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37- Which perfume does he wear? - A special one for him.
0:06:42 > 0:06:44I know him quite well.
0:06:45 > 0:06:48Mr Giscard d'Estaing.
0:06:52 > 0:06:54Jean-Paul is the old guard.
0:06:58 > 0:07:05Once upon a time, companies like Guerlain WERE French perfume.
0:07:05 > 0:07:07Today, judged by sales alone,
0:07:07 > 0:07:10these ancient houses have a tiny share
0:07:10 > 0:07:13of the world fine fragrance market.
0:07:22 > 0:07:27The big business is now done on the other side of the Atlantic.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36In early May, the warmth of the sun makes Manhattan smell
0:07:36 > 0:07:40of baked tarmac and spring flowers.
0:07:40 > 0:07:43The hot subway air tastes of burning steel.
0:07:44 > 0:07:48But most New Yorkers are in here, smelling something else,
0:07:48 > 0:07:51on the day before Mothering Sunday.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54It's a key date in the perfume calendar.
0:07:57 > 0:08:01The fragrance department at Macy's store on West 34th Street
0:08:01 > 0:08:05is the most important scent retail space in the western world.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09Ladies, fragrance today? Try Versace?
0:08:09 > 0:08:14We are just celebrating women all around the world here, in New York,
0:08:14 > 0:08:15for Mother's Day.
0:08:15 > 0:08:18- Sample Versace for ladies today? - Rodriguez for ladies today?
0:08:18 > 0:08:21We make everybody just beautiful all around.
0:08:21 > 0:08:22Welcome to Chanel, ladies.
0:08:22 > 0:08:25All the miracles happen right here!
0:08:25 > 0:08:28Burberry? Burberry Sheer.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32The big name brands that now dominate the industry
0:08:32 > 0:08:35have made perfume a fashion item,
0:08:35 > 0:08:37something to be changed regularly.
0:08:39 > 0:08:43Finding new angles stretches the sales team to the limit.
0:08:43 > 0:08:46It's very flowery, very summery.
0:08:46 > 0:08:50Ed Hardy Fragrance is a beautiful scent, a tattoo-inspired scent.
0:08:50 > 0:08:54You're experiencing strawberry, grapefruit, a vanilla pudding.
0:08:54 > 0:08:56You want one?
0:08:56 > 0:09:01By sundown they'll have sold gallons of scent to thousands of customers.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05- Any florals that you ladies like? - Burberry Sheer, Burberry Sport.
0:09:05 > 0:09:07And that's just this one store.
0:09:07 > 0:09:09Calvin Klein for ladies today?
0:09:09 > 0:09:11Gardenia, lavender, lilac.
0:09:11 > 0:09:12Euphoria for ladies?
0:09:12 > 0:09:13Givenchy for ladies?
0:09:15 > 0:09:17Would you like to try Burberry?
0:09:17 > 0:09:21CACOPHONY OF VOICES SELLING
0:09:31 > 0:09:36Five years ago, the New York Times saw the frenzy
0:09:36 > 0:09:40and asked scent critic Chandler Burr to write a column.
0:09:40 > 0:09:42There's way too much.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45It's absurd. It's essentially an addiction. To get that high,
0:09:45 > 0:09:49to get that thrill you had, you have to keep shooting up.
0:09:49 > 0:09:51And you shoot up more and more and more frequently.
0:09:51 > 0:09:56And you just throw things at the market, and nothing ever sticks.
0:09:56 > 0:10:01Because it's just too much and people have been now trained to just go on to the next thing.
0:10:01 > 0:10:05If you throw so much stuff at people, they have no time
0:10:05 > 0:10:08to love anything, to become attached to anything.
0:10:08 > 0:10:12And you're not making anything good enough for them to become attached to.
0:10:15 > 0:10:21Chandler writes at home, inundated by a fragrant tsunami.
0:10:21 > 0:10:25So this is...delivery. There's a lot of it.
0:10:27 > 0:10:29This is Yves St Laurent...
0:10:29 > 0:10:30Beaute.
0:10:30 > 0:10:32And this is Bliss.
0:10:36 > 0:10:37Yeah.
0:10:38 > 0:10:40This is Love.
0:10:43 > 0:10:44HE SIGHS
0:10:44 > 0:10:46No.
0:10:49 > 0:10:51No.
0:10:53 > 0:10:55The Love is Juicy Fruit gum.
0:10:56 > 0:10:57Urgh.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00OK, this is sort of Lord Of The Rings.
0:11:00 > 0:11:04It looks like something that... Liv Tyler ought to throw this at you.
0:11:06 > 0:11:10Oooh! Doesn't disappoint.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14Oh, my God.
0:11:15 > 0:11:16This is, this is pot.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19KNOCK ON DOOR Oh, hang on, one second.
0:11:20 > 0:11:22Hey, how are you?
0:11:22 > 0:11:25Another one. All right.
0:11:25 > 0:11:29- Did you come by here yesterday?- Yeah. - All right, thank you.
0:11:29 > 0:11:30- More?- OK, yeah.
0:11:31 > 0:11:36OK, so let's do this. 15 years ago, there would have been a lot less.
0:11:36 > 0:11:40There were about 150 launches a year.
0:11:40 > 0:11:47And in 2011, there's going to be, there will have been 1,200, I think.
0:11:47 > 0:11:50So these are the...Fresh.
0:11:50 > 0:11:52This is the Bliss.
0:11:52 > 0:11:55This is the Marc Jacobs.
0:11:55 > 0:11:58This is the Thierry Mugler. OK.
0:11:58 > 0:12:01So I'm going to do it here. Oh, that's interesting.
0:12:06 > 0:12:08This...
0:12:08 > 0:12:12this is a fruit. This is a modern fruit.
0:12:14 > 0:12:16Ah!
0:12:16 > 0:12:21There's actually beautiful extract of natural saffron. Spectacular!
0:12:21 > 0:12:23There's just so much of it,
0:12:23 > 0:12:27and there's only so much of Chandler Burr to spray it on.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33How to make new fragrances stand out from the crowd is the question
0:12:33 > 0:12:36vexing perfume marketing executives.
0:12:37 > 0:12:40Queen of them all is Veronique Gabai-Pinsky.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44She's after the most elusive consumer group of all.
0:12:46 > 0:12:49They are called by the industry Gen Y,
0:12:49 > 0:12:52and a lot of people are trying to reach out to them.
0:12:52 > 0:12:5518 to 27, something like that.
0:12:55 > 0:13:00When you ask these people, how would you describe yourself?
0:13:00 > 0:13:05The key adjective that comes from them is creative.
0:13:07 > 0:13:11I think they make a very clear difference between what is
0:13:11 > 0:13:16marketed and what is genuinely created.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22Tommy Hilfiger wants a new scent and he wants Veronique to find a way
0:13:22 > 0:13:26of making it a must-have for Generation Y.
0:13:27 > 0:13:32We wanted to reconnect the younger generation with Tommy Hilfiger fashion brand.
0:13:34 > 0:13:39The great challenge of our business is that nobody needs another fragrance.
0:13:39 > 0:13:46So when you launch something to the market, good is simply not good enough.'
0:13:46 > 0:13:47Hi, Jo.
0:13:47 > 0:13:52Hilfiger's perfumes are made by the giant Estee Lauder group,
0:13:52 > 0:13:55where Veronique oversees all designer fragrances.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58She's got a big idea for Tommy.
0:13:58 > 0:14:02A scent called Loud, containing liquid rock and roll.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07The whole project is about mixing music and fragrance together.
0:14:07 > 0:14:09And we said, "You know what,
0:14:09 > 0:14:14"could we push the boundaries of collaboration between music and fragrance?"
0:14:16 > 0:14:21Scent is invisible, so the packaging has a lot of work to do.
0:14:22 > 0:14:26The most potent selling tool of all is the bottle.
0:14:28 > 0:14:34Veronique has to win the hearts of a whole generation for Tommy.
0:14:34 > 0:14:38She's reached out to the Picasso of bottle design.
0:14:38 > 0:14:44Chad Lavigne is so hot that if he was a bottle himself you'd drop him.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53Tommy was very clear that he wanted to see something on the shelf,
0:14:53 > 0:14:57see something in the stores, that was a literal translation
0:14:57 > 0:15:01of something from the music genre.
0:15:03 > 0:15:05Chad's assembled a mood-board,
0:15:05 > 0:15:12a collage of rock-and roll references for the drum and bass generation.
0:15:12 > 0:15:18Rock star Boyd here brought in a lot of his LPs here.
0:15:18 > 0:15:23The volume knobs on the amps cued into the caps.
0:15:23 > 0:15:24The record boxes...
0:15:24 > 0:15:29- Wrist bands, shopping bags. Gift sets.- Stacks of records.
0:15:29 > 0:15:32Everything relating back to music.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36Normally when you walk into Bloomingdales department store
0:15:36 > 0:15:38they have the piece of paper they spray for you.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40This ones' a little ticket stub.
0:15:40 > 0:15:44These pieces definitely go after a younger demographic.
0:15:44 > 0:15:49The bottle itself is obviously inspired by an LP.
0:15:49 > 0:15:52Within the glass mould we have the ridges in here.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56It's distorted, it's pulsing, it's vibrating, it's moving.
0:15:56 > 0:16:03And the cap itself we played off a lot of ideas off of the knobs of amps, guitars, all of that.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06And then the girls' is just the bright magenta,
0:16:06 > 0:16:09which again is so signature for Tommy now in his jeans line.
0:16:09 > 0:16:14We designed a resin sleeve that the bottle actually slides into.
0:16:14 > 0:16:19A wink and a nod to a physical LP and how you take them out of the sleeves.
0:16:19 > 0:16:26It's for the consumer to actively participate in the packaging.
0:16:26 > 0:16:31When you come out with a brand or product that is so cool,
0:16:31 > 0:16:36the world attacks it. They all buy it, every single one of them.
0:16:36 > 0:16:40This one works great.
0:16:42 > 0:16:44Paris, in mid-summer.
0:16:52 > 0:16:57Jean-Paul Guerlain's promotional methods are rather more old school.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07The master perfumer entices journalists
0:17:07 > 0:17:09to the cool of his chateau.
0:17:09 > 0:17:12He wants to "mention" his new cologne,
0:17:12 > 0:17:14named after a hero of French literature,
0:17:14 > 0:17:17suave gentleman rogue Arsene Lupin.
0:17:20 > 0:17:23This one is important because I'm...
0:17:24 > 0:17:29..I'm 73, maybe it will be the last launching I'll do.
0:17:34 > 0:17:39What do you think of the big houses making the mass market fragrances now?
0:17:39 > 0:17:43- I hate that!- You hate it?
0:17:43 > 0:17:46Well, I don't like marketing, I hate it.
0:17:47 > 0:17:50Isn't this marketing, what you're doing today?
0:17:50 > 0:17:53Well, it's not quite marketing I'm doing.
0:17:53 > 0:17:57It's not panel test and things like that.
0:17:58 > 0:18:04Panel testing or "focus grouping" are standard tools in the perfume industry,
0:18:04 > 0:18:07but they are not for the likes of Guerlain.
0:18:07 > 0:18:08At least, not yet.
0:18:11 > 0:18:16Jean-Paul has chosen a successor. For four generations,
0:18:16 > 0:18:18the master perfumer has been a Guerlain,
0:18:18 > 0:18:22but when Jean-Paul's son decided not to be the fifth,
0:18:22 > 0:18:24he had to look outside the family.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29Thierry Wasser is the man who will be king.
0:18:29 > 0:18:33Right now he's just a regent prince.
0:18:34 > 0:18:36There are a lot of girls.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39You need at least two roosters in the coop today.
0:18:41 > 0:18:44Today is his day. His special day.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49Wasser's task will not be easy.
0:18:49 > 0:18:53He must keep Guerlain relevant to the 21st century whilst celebrating
0:18:53 > 0:18:55the glories of the 19th.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02'I am in a position which is absolutely unique
0:19:02 > 0:19:06'because Jean-Paul has been taught by his grandfather.
0:19:06 > 0:19:12'I have direct link of somebody who created his first fragrance
0:19:12 > 0:19:14'in the 19th century.'
0:19:20 > 0:19:25'People think it's a heavy burden not to be blood-related,
0:19:25 > 0:19:30'but when you have a lovable person like Jean-Paul Guerlain,
0:19:30 > 0:19:32'the task is easy.'
0:19:36 > 0:19:39The ladies of the press -
0:19:39 > 0:19:42and it's always the ladies who get invited to the big house -
0:19:42 > 0:19:45depart for the helipad and Paris,
0:19:45 > 0:19:47ready to file their copy.
0:20:00 > 0:20:02HORSE WHINNIES
0:20:05 > 0:20:09Few journalists are invited to the real inner sanctum.
0:20:13 > 0:20:18Every Wednesday, Thierry Wasser travels from Paris to meet
0:20:18 > 0:20:20Jean-Paul at the Guerlain factory.
0:20:26 > 0:20:29The heir apparent has a constant reminder of the weight
0:20:29 > 0:20:31of family history next to his office.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40It's the lab of the greatest Guerlain of all,
0:20:40 > 0:20:47creator of Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue and Shalimar - Grandpa Jacques.
0:20:50 > 0:20:58This is the organ that has been used by Jacques Guerlain.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04They are what he used to play with.
0:21:04 > 0:21:12And Mr Guerlain was coming here and was making his formula.
0:21:12 > 0:21:14Some of them...
0:21:14 > 0:21:17travelled through the time pretty good.
0:21:24 > 0:21:28It's a cool place where I like to sit.
0:21:35 > 0:21:38Here he comes. Here's the boss.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42Look through the shade, he's coming.
0:21:48 > 0:21:50He is a young man.
0:21:55 > 0:21:59When he came to Guerlain, Thierry Wasser was a rising star.
0:22:02 > 0:22:04He could have gone anywhere,
0:22:04 > 0:22:08but Jean-Paul Guerlain offered something more than just a job.
0:22:12 > 0:22:17'I lost my father when I was a child, and as an adult,
0:22:17 > 0:22:25'I have been always growing at the shade of a mature man.
0:22:26 > 0:22:32'And I used to say that since I find a dad at almost 50...'
0:22:36 > 0:22:40..I got my childhood back.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43And it is...
0:22:43 > 0:22:47Well, what I'm telling you is very personal, actually, but to me,
0:22:47 > 0:22:54be back in a loving, respecting, admiring relationship
0:22:54 > 0:23:01is fascinating and make me younger, also.
0:23:01 > 0:23:06It's very weird. But it's nevertheless how I feel.
0:23:09 > 0:23:14The relationship is good for Jean-Paul too. He still has a role.
0:23:14 > 0:23:20He still commands respect. The baton is being passed, but slowly.
0:23:26 > 0:23:30'Thierry, I like him very much.
0:23:30 > 0:23:36'He's very gifted and I think he will do a very good job.
0:23:36 > 0:23:43'We get on very well together. That's the most important thing.'
0:23:53 > 0:23:59In New York, Veronique Gabai-Pinsky and her team have laboured through the sweltering summer.
0:24:04 > 0:24:08They have a bottle prototype for the new Tommy Hilfiger scent.
0:24:08 > 0:24:13The next matter is the actual liquid, known in the trade as the juice.
0:24:14 > 0:24:18Veronique has brought together a two-man dream team.
0:24:20 > 0:24:27We've asked two perfumers, very young. They've never been involved in the industry for the last 20 years.
0:24:27 > 0:24:29They are simply too young to have done that.
0:24:29 > 0:24:31They're part of that generation
0:24:31 > 0:24:33and they're both very interested in music.
0:24:37 > 0:24:45Hot but cool, Aurelien Guichard made Play for Comme Des Garcons, and Unforgivable for Sean John.
0:24:49 > 0:24:53You have to be a bit naive and innocent to try things that people tell you is not possible.
0:24:55 > 0:24:58And maybe you'll create the best fragrance of your life.
0:25:01 > 0:25:05Yann Vasnier wrote the formula for Marc Jacobs' Lola.
0:25:05 > 0:25:11He and Guichard have just months to produce countless minute variations on a theme.
0:25:16 > 0:25:21So just how do you create rock and roll as a smell?
0:25:21 > 0:25:23Patchouli.
0:25:23 > 0:25:27It was very much used in the past by hippies.
0:25:27 > 0:25:31The rose is probably the most universal way to express femininity.
0:25:31 > 0:25:36We thought that was rock and roll for us, when we worked the rose with the patchouli.
0:25:36 > 0:25:42As their juice develops, the perfumers constantly compare it to the latest releases.
0:25:42 > 0:25:47Veronique writes ten commandments for all her perfumes.
0:25:47 > 0:25:51Number one - thou shalt smell fantastic.
0:25:51 > 0:25:55First time that you access a fragrance, you're going to do it
0:25:55 > 0:26:01because of the idea, the advertising campaign, the bottle design.
0:26:01 > 0:26:05And then, you know, what's happening is the second time, the third time,
0:26:05 > 0:26:11the fourth time and hopefully the tenth time you're going to buy the bottle is because of what's inside.
0:26:11 > 0:26:15Quite frankly, a fragrance cannot exist if you don't have
0:26:15 > 0:26:18the amazing quality in the bottle.
0:26:18 > 0:26:22There are still several versions of the scent.
0:26:25 > 0:26:31Wendy Patel monitors the market for Veronique's team, watching for shifts in the public's tastes.
0:26:33 > 0:26:37Maybe we could try to bring the patchouli up just a little bit more,
0:26:37 > 0:26:42so that you kind of get it, more so with the rose.
0:26:42 > 0:26:49Patchouli, a soft-leaved relative of mint from South-East Asia, is the summer's must-have ingredient.
0:26:51 > 0:26:53It kind of gives it a sexiness, you know.
0:26:53 > 0:26:57- Mm-hm.- It's...- OK.
0:26:57 > 0:27:01Like, we're fun, we're fruity, we're juicy, we're...
0:27:02 > 0:27:05It can just have a thread of that, a little bit more.
0:27:07 > 0:27:11The process involves infinite minute changes to the formulation,
0:27:11 > 0:27:14getting them assessed, going back to the lab.
0:27:14 > 0:27:16The clock is ticking.
0:27:16 > 0:27:20The juice has to be ready for the pre-Christmas publicity drive.
0:27:23 > 0:27:26The stakes are high.
0:27:26 > 0:27:33Hilfiger is famed for two big sellers, both well respected by the perfume trade.
0:27:33 > 0:27:37Loud has a lot to live up to.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47Manhattan is in the midst of a heat wave
0:27:47 > 0:27:54when the day arrives for the client to smell what Veronique and her team hope will be the winning formula.
0:27:56 > 0:27:58It's a big day because we're meeting Tommy.
0:27:58 > 0:28:04This is the juice. This is the soul and the core and the DNA of the project.
0:28:04 > 0:28:07So really we're at the very end of the process.
0:28:11 > 0:28:18Tommy Hilfiger arrives 15 minutes late and is due somewhere else in half an hour.
0:28:18 > 0:28:20Hello. Hi.
0:28:20 > 0:28:22Hi. How is everybody?
0:28:22 > 0:28:23Good to see you again.
0:28:23 > 0:28:25- Nice to see you again. - Nice to meet you.
0:28:25 > 0:28:27- Nice to see you.- Nice to see you.
0:28:28 > 0:28:30- Do you want to sit down and go? - Yeah. Over here?
0:28:30 > 0:28:34We didn't want to go through traditional market research for this project.
0:28:34 > 0:28:38We wanted to keep the creative process very creative.
0:28:38 > 0:28:43- ...Mm-hm.- Really, the juices have been
0:28:43 > 0:28:47universally appreciated. In a way, that's very interesting for us
0:28:47 > 0:28:49because it's not like, "I like it."
0:28:49 > 0:28:51It was immediately, "I love it.
0:28:51 > 0:28:55"What is it? I want it." So it's interesting.
0:28:55 > 0:28:58- Is this the way the bottle's going to look?- Yes.
0:28:58 > 0:29:02Because when it's filled with fluid it's going to look a bit different.
0:29:02 > 0:29:07- These are stem models. They're not production.- This is plastic, still.- Acrylic.
0:29:07 > 0:29:11It's that fine balance of it pulsing but legibility, you know?
0:29:17 > 0:29:18What is it really saying?
0:29:18 > 0:29:23I mean, you know what it says, we all know what it says, but what does it really say?
0:29:23 > 0:29:26If it's OU,
0:29:26 > 0:29:30- it's not going to resonate and connect back to the advertising. - Yeah, yeah.
0:29:34 > 0:29:37We'll make sure it's there. I think that we can achieve that.
0:29:37 > 0:29:40Your eye will get into the L and the D more.
0:29:42 > 0:29:45The box turned out to be really cool.
0:29:45 > 0:29:49So it really gives you the feeling of a real...
0:29:49 > 0:29:51CD case?
0:29:51 > 0:29:54Yeah. And what we'll have
0:29:54 > 0:29:58inside here, that will open, flip out,
0:29:58 > 0:30:01so the consumer can slide out the bottle.
0:30:01 > 0:30:03It's a bit pink.
0:30:03 > 0:30:04Yeah, I agree.
0:30:04 > 0:30:11We want to put a little more of a blush colour into it, a little more of a skin colour to tone down...
0:30:11 > 0:30:13- Yeah, I think so.- ..the pink.
0:30:13 > 0:30:15Get it a little more rock and roll.
0:30:15 > 0:30:17- Yeah.- Yeah.
0:30:17 > 0:30:19What I like also is the tagline,
0:30:19 > 0:30:22which is "scent and sound mixed by Tommy Hilfiger".
0:30:22 > 0:30:29Mixing fragrance and music together, you know, we've mixed them together, you know?
0:30:31 > 0:30:36You're going to have to tear the duct tape to smell the fragrance. That's an innovation.
0:30:36 > 0:30:42At the same time, we will give a little bit of education to our consumer on the fragrance itself.
0:30:42 > 0:30:47Explain how it was created by mixing sound and scent together.
0:30:47 > 0:30:50So this is where we are.
0:30:50 > 0:30:56It's always about this rock and roll rose.
0:30:56 > 0:31:00It's this overdose of rose.
0:31:00 > 0:31:07Here it's an overdose of patchouli, with a teeny bit of rose that runs through, just to give it some...
0:31:07 > 0:31:09Some extra.
0:31:09 > 0:31:11Yes, some sensibility.
0:31:17 > 0:31:19- It's good.- Yeah, it's good. - Beautiful.
0:31:19 > 0:31:22- Yes, it's good. - It's fantastic.- I love it.
0:31:22 > 0:31:25Oh...that's incredible.
0:31:25 > 0:31:27It's great.
0:31:29 > 0:31:31It's very good.
0:31:32 > 0:31:34The men's is fantastic.
0:31:34 > 0:31:36Spot on.
0:31:36 > 0:31:40- It's really saying, "Touch us." - It's great.
0:31:49 > 0:31:51- Bye-bye.- Thank you.
0:31:55 > 0:31:57See you soon, ciao.
0:31:57 > 0:32:00Tommy Hilfiger has left the building.
0:32:03 > 0:32:04The green light is lit.
0:32:04 > 0:32:08Loud is off and running.
0:32:13 > 0:32:18In a Swiss plant, the production line begins initial bottling.
0:32:18 > 0:32:21They'll go onto shelves beside dozens of other new releases.
0:32:21 > 0:32:24For this Tommy, the war has just begun.
0:32:38 > 0:32:44Today, many perfumers are being forced to use fewer, cheaper ingredients to maintain profits.
0:32:44 > 0:32:47That doesn't happen at Guerlain.
0:32:47 > 0:32:51Shalimar, the jewel in the company crown,
0:32:51 > 0:32:56is still made to the recipe written 90 years ago by Jacques Guerlain.
0:32:56 > 0:33:02One of the ingredients is iris oil, notoriously difficult to extract.
0:33:02 > 0:33:07In this butter form it costs £13,000 a kilo.
0:33:14 > 0:33:20Precision is essential because a drop or a drip either way and this isn't Shalimar.
0:33:29 > 0:33:35This is an old-world perfume, long on ingredients, many of them taken from nature.
0:33:44 > 0:33:48Every Guerlain fragrance contains a secret chemical mix known as the Guerlinade.
0:33:50 > 0:33:54It's been the DNA of their fragrances since the start.
0:33:56 > 0:33:58Here I have a key,
0:33:58 > 0:34:02which goes to the most...
0:34:02 > 0:34:05ancient one that we have found.
0:34:07 > 0:34:09Oof, oof!
0:34:12 > 0:34:19I'm going to bet that this is the Pierre-Francois-Pascal book, this one.
0:34:19 > 0:34:23He opened his store in 1828.
0:34:24 > 0:34:28This book has suffered a bit,
0:34:28 > 0:34:32because you know that our factory has been bombed in '44?
0:34:32 > 0:34:37Well, shit happen.
0:34:42 > 0:34:44Those books are alive.
0:34:46 > 0:34:50This is the original from Jacques.
0:34:50 > 0:34:53Candide Effluve, we did a re-edition.
0:34:53 > 0:34:55Vol De Nuit, extrait.
0:34:58 > 0:35:04The books are very emotionally linked to Jean-Paul
0:35:04 > 0:35:07because it's the handwriting of his grandfather
0:35:07 > 0:35:12or his great-great-grandfather.
0:35:12 > 0:35:16His mom's writing on several books.
0:35:16 > 0:35:19His family is here.
0:35:19 > 0:35:21It's like all those ghosts
0:35:21 > 0:35:25are kept in those pages and maybe when you open one
0:35:25 > 0:35:31some of those ghosts might pop out. Who knows?
0:35:33 > 0:35:39He respects the history but Thierry is about to make his own mark.
0:35:41 > 0:35:44He's going to tinker with Shalimar.
0:35:46 > 0:35:49It is an idea of...
0:35:50 > 0:35:53..opening a door to a masterpiece.
0:35:55 > 0:36:00That's something I'm keen and interested in.
0:36:00 > 0:36:03We'll see if it works or not.
0:36:03 > 0:36:06But of course,
0:36:06 > 0:36:10you'll have to think about what Jean-Paul is going to think
0:36:10 > 0:36:16about you playing with the family jewels!
0:36:19 > 0:36:22There have been a few light, summer editions of Shalimar,
0:36:22 > 0:36:26but the big seller is still the heavyweight original.
0:36:26 > 0:36:30Wasser wants to make a version for a younger market.
0:36:30 > 0:36:32It'll be pink.
0:36:32 > 0:36:36This is a pivotal moment in the company's history.
0:36:39 > 0:36:44It's an emotionally dangerous thing,
0:36:44 > 0:36:48but I change with this book
0:36:48 > 0:36:50on my heart
0:36:50 > 0:36:53and keeping in mind that
0:36:53 > 0:36:56you can't betray the book.
0:37:06 > 0:37:09Wasser must change more than the scents.
0:37:11 > 0:37:15New markets are opening up east and west, and on his watch
0:37:15 > 0:37:20the house will have to compete or risk becoming a museum piece.
0:37:26 > 0:37:28Times have changed, too.
0:37:28 > 0:37:34The world gets wider and it's a big village, it's called globalisation.
0:37:34 > 0:37:39It sounds like a bad word to a lot of people who
0:37:39 > 0:37:47love Guerlain because Guerlain is Franco-French and very artisanal.
0:37:47 > 0:37:50I think we have to look around us, so my signature
0:37:50 > 0:37:54is going to be indeed different than what has been done before.
0:38:04 > 0:38:07Across the Channel in the London offices of
0:38:07 > 0:38:10the Estee Lauder Companies Inc, they're in a party mood.
0:38:10 > 0:38:14Loud is going to launch first in the UK.
0:38:16 > 0:38:21The press have been invited and they'll expect to see some rock and roll patchouli.
0:38:21 > 0:38:24Marketing manager Trudi Collister can't find any.
0:38:26 > 0:38:29Our florist said absolutely not.
0:38:29 > 0:38:31They just couldn't get it.
0:38:31 > 0:38:32'It has to happen.
0:38:32 > 0:38:35'The patchouli has to happen. Veronique cannot show up at an event
0:38:35 > 0:38:39'where we're talking about patchouli in a fragrance and it's not there.
0:38:39 > 0:38:42'I don't care what fragrance houses have to do.
0:38:42 > 0:38:44'But that is a massive, massive issue.'
0:38:44 > 0:38:50They came back this morning to say, "We just can't get it from anywhere."
0:38:50 > 0:38:53'This is where we have to be a little bit more resourceful
0:38:53 > 0:38:58'in terms of reaching out to a multitude of other people to track this down.
0:38:58 > 0:39:03'We have now only got three or four days, so now I think we're in big trouble. Something has to be there.
0:39:03 > 0:39:06'Please, can you source nurseries?'
0:39:06 > 0:39:10Yeah, we can look into that.
0:39:10 > 0:39:13- 'OK, great.'- Oh, it's fine.
0:39:13 > 0:39:15SHE LAUGHS
0:39:15 > 0:39:18- 'The calm before the storm.'- Yes!
0:39:18 > 0:39:22We'll get straight onto this patchouli issue.
0:39:22 > 0:39:29- 'Thank you so much. Bye.' - OK, look forward to seeing you on Wednesday and Thursday.- Bye.
0:39:29 > 0:39:32- 'Looking forward to seeing you too, guys.- Bye.'
0:39:32 > 0:39:34- 'So long, bye.'- Bye.- Bye.
0:39:40 > 0:39:43This patchouli business is a bit of a...
0:39:43 > 0:39:46Yes, it's an issue, but we'll resolve it.
0:39:46 > 0:39:49- I'm sure we'll find something. - We'll get on the internet.
0:39:49 > 0:39:51Make a few calls.
0:39:51 > 0:39:53What happens if it is unobtainable?
0:39:53 > 0:39:55- It won't be.- It won't be.
0:39:55 > 0:39:59You find different...solutions.
0:39:59 > 0:40:01You make it work, you make it work.
0:40:05 > 0:40:08The publicity team have a secret weapon ready for the journalists.
0:40:08 > 0:40:10And action!
0:40:10 > 0:40:12MUSIC PLAYS
0:40:12 > 0:40:18It's a commercial-cum-video mission statement featuring indie band The Ting Tings as brand ambassadors.
0:40:20 > 0:40:24You can almost smell the perfume.
0:40:24 > 0:40:26# We're not the same. #
0:40:32 > 0:40:37The launch takes place in a boutique hotel in London's exciting West End.
0:40:41 > 0:40:44Trudi and her team are in a roof-top penthouse
0:40:44 > 0:40:49filled with Pacific Rim finger food and a rare herbal substance.
0:40:50 > 0:40:52Believe it or not,
0:40:52 > 0:40:55this is an authentic patchouli plant,
0:40:55 > 0:40:57which seems...vaguely odourless at this point.
0:40:57 > 0:41:00We're going to make it look pretty, because that's what we do.
0:41:00 > 0:41:04It doesn't look extraordinary but it will be extraordinary when we present it.
0:41:04 > 0:41:08At the end of the day, it's important to show people the true raw ingredients
0:41:08 > 0:41:12and we had all hands on deck and we reached out to the right people and we were able to get it.
0:41:12 > 0:41:14There was not an option to not find it.
0:41:14 > 0:41:19This is the long-lead press launch, for magazines that need to know
0:41:19 > 0:41:23about overnight sensations months in advance.
0:41:23 > 0:41:27Trudi briefs her team about what young people are like.
0:41:29 > 0:41:33Music to the youth generation is really, really important.
0:41:33 > 0:41:39You'll always see that they're plugged into their iPod or mobile phone, listening to music.
0:41:39 > 0:41:43Everything about them is music.
0:41:43 > 0:41:45- <- I'm Trudi...
0:41:45 > 0:41:49# I'd like to build the world a home
0:41:49 > 0:41:52# And furnish it with love
0:41:52 > 0:41:54# Grow apple trees... #
0:41:54 > 0:41:56Also on the roof, more brand ambassadors.
0:41:56 > 0:42:01Model and it-girl Daisy Lowe is rock-and-roll aristocracy.
0:42:04 > 0:42:10Her young old friend Josh Beech is a model and part-time punk musician.
0:42:13 > 0:42:16# I'd like to see the world for once
0:42:16 > 0:42:19# All standing hand-in-hand
0:42:19 > 0:42:23# And hear them echo through the hills
0:42:23 > 0:42:26# For peace throughout the land... #
0:42:26 > 0:42:29What role does music play in your life?
0:42:29 > 0:42:31I sing, but to myself.
0:42:31 > 0:42:35I've always got music on and I couldn't go anywhere without my iPod.
0:42:35 > 0:42:40Music is everything to us and the fragrance is called Loud.
0:42:41 > 0:42:47Veronique has flown in to ensure everyone is on the same conceptual platform.
0:42:47 > 0:42:51You tend to have preconceptions of what
0:42:51 > 0:42:53younger people would be like or would like.
0:42:53 > 0:42:59In fact, you realise if you let really them tell you
0:42:59 > 0:43:04what they like with their own words, or in that case with their own nose,
0:43:04 > 0:43:10they went for the most beautiful ingredients in perfumery.
0:43:10 > 0:43:18To be honest, we didn't know what the end game would be but we knew what we wanted the journey to be.
0:43:18 > 0:43:25The last collaborators, and certainly not the least, were the band that we worked with called The Ting Tings.
0:43:25 > 0:43:28And that's where I think
0:43:28 > 0:43:34there's a genuine authenticity in the project.
0:43:34 > 0:43:38Somebody asks you, "At the end of the day you want to sell fragrance, right?"
0:43:38 > 0:43:42And yes, at the end of the day, of course that's what we're about.
0:43:42 > 0:43:47But try to do it in a way that's genuine and different.
0:43:47 > 0:43:49Brilliant. Thank you so much.
0:43:49 > 0:43:52- I'll speak to you soon. - Take care. Bye-bye.
0:43:52 > 0:43:54- Thank you.- Thank you.
0:43:55 > 0:43:57They're loving it.
0:43:57 > 0:43:59And then I'm loving it.
0:44:01 > 0:44:08Positive press is vital, because a mid-market fragrance is at risk from the moment it's born.
0:44:11 > 0:44:14If the next big thing doesn't fly off the shelves,
0:44:14 > 0:44:19it'll get pushed out of the spotlight and into the bargain bin.
0:44:19 > 0:44:22We can buy some nice frozen pizza.
0:44:22 > 0:44:24We can buy eyeliner.
0:44:24 > 0:44:26Oh, ice cream.
0:44:26 > 0:44:31Scent critic Chandler Burr has killed a few perfumes in his time
0:44:31 > 0:44:33and knows where the bodies are buried.
0:44:33 > 0:44:34And here's the perfume.
0:44:34 > 0:44:37Wow, look at this.
0:44:37 > 0:44:41Every single perfume here, virtually, has started out
0:44:41 > 0:44:46in a higher level, in a more prestigious point of sale.
0:44:46 > 0:44:48Frequently they will have a year's run.
0:44:48 > 0:44:54If they go down for a bit one year and down another one, then they roll them out here.
0:44:54 > 0:44:57If I'm a designer, am I upset that these are here?
0:44:57 > 0:44:59Am I pleased to see them here?
0:44:59 > 0:45:03You're pleased to see them here because you're making a lot of money.
0:45:03 > 0:45:08Now, if you're Chanel and you're here, you call your lawyer.
0:45:08 > 0:45:10This is Calvin Klein, OK?
0:45:10 > 0:45:16Do you want to be wearing a 3,000 suit from a brand that has a product
0:45:16 > 0:45:22that is being sold in essentially a grocery store? That's a question.
0:45:22 > 0:45:25Does the money that you make selling this
0:45:25 > 0:45:33outweigh the slight fall in the lustre of Calvin Klein as a brand?
0:45:33 > 0:45:37It probably does, frankly. Calvin Klein will allow stuff
0:45:37 > 0:45:41to be sold here, where it would never allow its clothing to be...
0:45:41 > 0:45:47because fragrance is the single best way of monetising celebrity and brand ever created.
0:45:47 > 0:45:52And because if you can sell it here but you can sell it at a price that is
0:45:52 > 0:45:59something that people who live in the suburbs near here, people with normal jobs driving normal cars, can buy.
0:45:59 > 0:46:01And they can buy a piece of Calvin Klein.
0:46:09 > 0:46:14It's September and Thierry Wasser is in the fast lane.
0:46:17 > 0:46:23He's happy with his new pink Shalimar and has submitted samples to Jean-Paul Guerlain.
0:46:23 > 0:46:30'I asked from a perfumer to another perfumer an advice.
0:46:30 > 0:46:33'He didn't say anything. He didn't even make a face.
0:46:33 > 0:46:36'Jean-Paul didn't sign me a letter saying it's good.
0:46:36 > 0:46:38'I don't have a stamp of approval.
0:46:43 > 0:46:49'Because he didn't throw the smelling strip to my face or on the floor,
0:46:49 > 0:46:54'I guess it was not that bad.'
0:46:55 > 0:47:01Without a definite steer, he's about to do something almost unheard of for a Guerlain perfumer.
0:47:01 > 0:47:05He's going to ask the marketing department what they think.
0:47:08 > 0:47:11Marguerite Ranjard is in charge.
0:48:28 > 0:48:32Ranjard lends an ear and a nose.
0:48:32 > 0:48:36She's not about to tell the perfumer what he should make next.
0:49:07 > 0:49:10Paris, New York...
0:49:11 > 0:49:14..Oxford Street.
0:49:14 > 0:49:21After months of concept and design, the real test for Tommy Hilfiger's Loud is the high-street shopper.
0:49:24 > 0:49:26OK, good morning, everybody.
0:49:26 > 0:49:28- ALL:- Good morning.- Are we Loud?
0:49:28 > 0:49:32- ALL:- Yes, we're Loud. - OK. So, just over to Jackie.
0:49:32 > 0:49:34Thank you, Debbie.
0:49:34 > 0:49:38Hello and welcome to our world of Loud and proud in Debenhams London.
0:49:40 > 0:49:46It's very exciting for us and I hope you will all join with me to make today a great success.
0:49:46 > 0:49:50We have got some incentives, and that is going to be a £5 gift card for Debenhams.
0:49:50 > 0:49:53It's for the first person to hit their stretch target.
0:49:53 > 0:49:55- ALL:- Woo!
0:49:55 > 0:49:59Be passionate about what you do. We are committed to working together.
0:49:59 > 0:50:03Group hug! THEY CHEER
0:50:03 > 0:50:07This is a big one for us. This is bigger than any fragrance launch
0:50:07 > 0:50:10we've done recently, so they're very excited. They're hyped up.
0:50:18 > 0:50:20You can never predict full success in this business.
0:50:20 > 0:50:22You can't.
0:50:22 > 0:50:28The first reaction of your sales force is an excellent indicator.
0:50:28 > 0:50:30There's no customers around.
0:50:30 > 0:50:33Where are they?
0:50:33 > 0:50:35Morning, madame, a new fragrance...
0:50:35 > 0:50:38Patchouli, rose, lychee.
0:50:38 > 0:50:41Would you like to try it, madam? Loud?
0:50:41 > 0:50:44- Are you Loud or are you proud? - What?
0:50:44 > 0:50:47Our new one from Tommy Hilfiger. Would you like to try, sir?
0:50:48 > 0:50:51Just launched today.
0:50:51 > 0:50:53It's quite light, isn't it? I like it.
0:50:53 > 0:50:55It's really pretty. Very floral, very feminine.
0:50:55 > 0:50:58If you'd like her, a small one, if you love her, a big one!
0:50:59 > 0:51:01Suppose she doesn't like it?
0:51:01 > 0:51:02She will love it. I know she'll like it.
0:51:02 > 0:51:07I'm not sure if rock and roll would be the words I'd use to describe it.
0:51:08 > 0:51:09It actually is reactivated.
0:51:09 > 0:51:13- The ingredients are reactivated by perspiration.- Come out again? That's a really good idea.
0:51:13 > 0:51:17Tobacco in that one, to give it the masculine edge.
0:51:17 > 0:51:19- That's really nice.- Gorgeous.
0:51:19 > 0:51:22Again, the same thing, the same technology.
0:51:22 > 0:51:26When he's in the club, DJ-ing, that type of thing as well.
0:51:26 > 0:51:30- That's lovely.- They have got that rock and rolly kind of...
0:51:30 > 0:51:33- Definitely wear it on a night out. - Definitely.
0:51:33 > 0:51:36It's very comfortable to hold.
0:51:36 > 0:51:38- It sounds very sexy as well, Loud. - It doesn't smell gay.
0:51:38 > 0:51:42It doesn't smell gay. I'm not saying gays can't wear it but...
0:51:49 > 0:51:53British perfume fans have been Tommy Hilfiger's guinea pigs.
0:51:57 > 0:52:00Trudi Collister has the first sales figures.
0:52:03 > 0:52:04So how does it look?
0:52:04 > 0:52:08It's looking good. It's looking good.
0:52:08 > 0:52:10Our early indications, given that we've only had
0:52:10 > 0:52:15two weekends of trading, so theoretically about 10 days,
0:52:15 > 0:52:17we're really, really happy.
0:52:17 > 0:52:22I did hear earlier on today that in the North East, in Newcastle,
0:52:22 > 0:52:25we went to a sold-out position over the weekend.
0:52:25 > 0:52:27Obviously it's running up to Christmas.
0:52:27 > 0:52:33Looking at this, I can actually see several of the Christmas gift sets have been sold already.
0:52:33 > 0:52:36What would you have said if it had gone badly?
0:52:36 > 0:52:39We didn't expect it to go badly so that hasn't happened.
0:52:39 > 0:52:44When we saw it for the first time, we knew this was going to work for us.
0:52:44 > 0:52:47Is it millions or hundreds of thousands?
0:52:48 > 0:52:50We couldn't comment.
0:52:51 > 0:52:52Right.
0:52:52 > 0:52:57But...so it's probably not either of those, then?
0:52:59 > 0:53:01The real battleground is Christmas.
0:53:01 > 0:53:07The industry does 60% of its business in the last quarter of the year.
0:53:13 > 0:53:17All over the western world, perfumers, chemical manufacturers,
0:53:17 > 0:53:23growers, brand managers and distributors hold their collective breath
0:53:23 > 0:53:25to see who buys what.
0:53:33 > 0:53:37A mid-market scent launching in Europe and selling 20 million worth
0:53:37 > 0:53:41in its first year would get industry insiders talking.
0:53:44 > 0:53:51Even before Loud launched in Europe, experts were estimating sales of 45 million.
0:53:51 > 0:53:56Whether they guessed right is a closely-guarded secret.
0:53:59 > 0:54:03In Paris, at Maison Guerlain, Christmas is a fragrant bonanza,
0:54:03 > 0:54:06but that doesn't lift a terrible gloom.
0:54:07 > 0:54:12Two months earlier, Jean-Paul Guerlain had gone on live television
0:54:12 > 0:54:18to talk about his career and brought it to an abrupt end with a racist comment.
0:54:18 > 0:54:22NO SOUND
0:54:22 > 0:54:25Guerlain issued apologies but it was too late.
0:54:26 > 0:54:31Demonstrators gathered on the Champs-Elysees.
0:54:31 > 0:54:35There were placards calling for boycotts.
0:54:35 > 0:54:37Jean-Paul's contract was terminated.
0:54:39 > 0:54:42His reign was over in chaos.
0:54:50 > 0:54:55I can't accept what has been said.
0:54:55 > 0:54:58It is crass.
0:54:58 > 0:55:00It is from another time.
0:55:01 > 0:55:03It hurts my feelings a lot.
0:55:06 > 0:55:10Deeply. I can't tell you...
0:55:10 > 0:55:15why this enormity came out of his mouth. But...
0:55:18 > 0:55:22..it's just very, very disturbing and sad for me.
0:55:33 > 0:55:37Thierry Wasser is now the king on the Guerlain throne.
0:55:43 > 0:55:45On me cherche partout, non?
0:55:47 > 0:55:51I admire his career.
0:55:51 > 0:55:53I love his fragrances.
0:55:53 > 0:55:55My first fragrance was Habit Rouge that he made.
0:55:55 > 0:55:59He's my hero.
0:55:59 > 0:56:01Of course.
0:56:03 > 0:56:07This man is an old lion and, um...
0:56:09 > 0:56:16..you just deal with old lions, I guess.
0:56:17 > 0:56:18It's not easy.
0:56:22 > 0:56:28It's not the best way to leave your professional career.
0:56:30 > 0:56:33And it is painful for me, too.
0:56:36 > 0:56:39I told you, we had,
0:56:39 > 0:56:45or we have, a sensitive relationship and this has absolutely nothing to do with it.
0:56:56 > 0:57:00Are you still going to have to deal with your adopted dad sometimes?
0:57:01 > 0:57:04Well, around food, yes.
0:57:04 > 0:57:07I'll see him in private.
0:57:08 > 0:57:13- And that's it. - What about around perfume?
0:57:15 > 0:57:16No.
0:57:20 > 0:57:22You're in charge now?
0:57:22 > 0:57:24Mm-hm.
0:57:26 > 0:57:27Yes.
0:57:32 > 0:57:36Next time we meet the people who actually invent perfumes...
0:57:36 > 0:57:37HE BLOWS NOSE
0:57:37 > 0:57:41..creative geniuses with a language all their own.
0:57:41 > 0:57:46I can give in this perfume a kind of cold note,
0:57:46 > 0:57:49quite cold, and smooth.
0:57:49 > 0:57:52We'll be dealing with big concepts.
0:57:52 > 0:57:57A lot of the great classic French perfumes hint
0:57:57 > 0:58:01at how women really smell.
0:58:01 > 0:58:06And meeting the few with the right stuff to make it to Nose School.
0:58:06 > 0:58:10- I was hired.- He doesn't know anything about chemistry.
0:58:10 > 0:58:12HE CLEARS THROAT
0:58:12 > 0:58:14I'm sorry.
0:58:16 > 0:58:18I think he's got a lot of talent.
0:58:34 > 0:58:37Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:58:37 > 0:58:40Email subtitling@bbc.co.uk