0:00:03 > 0:00:08'What we like in a smell is determined by our culture and environment.
0:00:08 > 0:00:13'Making scent for western tastes used to be easy, but things are changing.'
0:00:13 > 0:00:16The European business and the American business
0:00:16 > 0:00:22have not enjoyed tremendous success over the last few years and these other regions are exploding.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26'But the new customers don't all want the same thing.
0:00:26 > 0:00:29'The Russians want rich and heavy.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32'The Chinese crave light and airy
0:00:32 > 0:00:35'and the Brazilians go bananas for fruits.'
0:00:35 > 0:00:39- You wouldn't use that in a perfume, would you?- I would. I would.
0:00:39 > 0:00:46'What we want in a perfume depends on where we are, but also when we are.
0:00:46 > 0:00:52'In Arabia, they lust for musky oriental scents that were all the rage in Victorian England.'
0:00:52 > 0:00:57I've brought some treasure for you, the best of English perfumery.
0:00:57 > 0:01:02'The tastes of London, Paris and New York will soon count for little.
0:01:02 > 0:01:06'What we smell like in the future is more likely to be dictated
0:01:06 > 0:01:10'by the customers of Shanghai, Mumbai and Sao Paulo.'
0:01:10 > 0:01:12Ah!
0:01:24 > 0:01:28'Ann Gottlieb's nose is small, but influential.
0:01:28 > 0:01:31'She's a predictor of global scent tastes.'
0:01:32 > 0:01:37Then see if you can make it at three and if we can get the test at nine.
0:01:37 > 0:01:43'The Manhattan-based grandmother works regularly for a top designer we can't name.
0:01:44 > 0:01:51'His perfumers are developing a new fragrance aimed at Chinese women whose tastes are changing fast.'
0:01:54 > 0:01:56You seem very thoughtful.
0:01:56 > 0:02:00I'm really concerned about the viability of this fragrance,
0:02:00 > 0:02:05as much as I love it and the direction in which it's going.
0:02:05 > 0:02:11Asia is a very important market for us and I don't know whether or not this is going to work there.
0:02:11 > 0:02:14I'm just not sure it'll work there.
0:02:17 > 0:02:22This is the more different woody note. This is more amber. This is more woody.
0:02:22 > 0:02:25Vetiver, cedar, this kind of woodiness.
0:02:25 > 0:02:30So this is the same as I'm wearing with a tweak on top...
0:02:30 > 0:02:33'There's a big sociological piece of what I do
0:02:33 > 0:02:37'in understanding what the tastes of the women and men of India are,
0:02:37 > 0:02:40'what the tastes of the Chinese are.'
0:02:40 > 0:02:42- I'm not sure.- You're not sure.
0:02:42 > 0:02:44OK, come back again.
0:02:44 > 0:02:50What happens here for me is that I go back into a little bit of that animalic dirtiness
0:02:50 > 0:02:53which I don't in the rest,
0:02:53 > 0:02:57so I think what I would like to do is take that and that
0:02:57 > 0:03:02because those two maintain the integrity of the fragrance that I love.
0:03:02 > 0:03:06'Fans in Europe and North America might also like this perfume,
0:03:06 > 0:03:09'but they're not going to get a sniff of it.'
0:03:12 > 0:03:17Because specific regions are such lucrative businesses,
0:03:17 > 0:03:22yes, specific fragrances would be created by him for those regions.
0:03:22 > 0:03:27- And not available here in North America or in Europe? - Probably not.
0:03:27 > 0:03:32What we are doing now are regional fragrances
0:03:32 > 0:03:36that are available only in certain locations.
0:03:37 > 0:03:39It's my responsibility to make sure
0:03:39 > 0:03:45that a fragrance that is supposed to be region-appropriate is so.
0:03:48 > 0:03:53Gottlieb's office on Central Park is filled with trophies.
0:03:56 > 0:04:01For four decades, big name clients have had huge successes
0:04:01 > 0:04:05following her advice on western tastes.
0:04:06 > 0:04:10These days, her nose takes her east and south.
0:04:10 > 0:04:15Gottlieb isn't limited to fine fragrance.
0:04:16 > 0:04:21Thanks to her, adolescent youth the world over smells pungently sexy.
0:04:21 > 0:04:27One of the projects that I've worked on and I've worked on it for 20 years
0:04:27 > 0:04:30is Axe, the bodyspray.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33- That we call Lynx? - That you call Lynx in the UK.
0:04:33 > 0:04:37It is targeted really to teenage boys
0:04:37 > 0:04:40and I feel very much like its mother.
0:04:40 > 0:04:46And we do a new one every year and we get them pretty right.
0:04:49 > 0:04:54Historically, Lynx scents have been tuned to European tastes,
0:04:54 > 0:04:57but Ann is going to change that.
0:04:57 > 0:05:01The brand's HQ is in London and that's where she's heading.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08On the banks of the River Thames sit the offices
0:05:08 > 0:05:12where the future of Lynx or Axe is planned.
0:05:12 > 0:05:18Teenage scent tastes change fast and there's a new bodyspray every year.
0:05:18 > 0:05:21It's worn by boys all over the world,
0:05:21 > 0:05:28but Gottlieb knows that the smell of the next one will be dictated by just one territory.
0:05:28 > 0:05:34There is one country, ONE country, that matters more to Lynx and to Axe
0:05:34 > 0:05:36than any other and that's Brazil.
0:05:36 > 0:05:42They're fragrance-literate and they love fragrance, so the potential is huge there,
0:05:42 > 0:05:46probably bigger than any other region in the world.
0:05:46 > 0:05:53For brand manager Russell Taylor, there are practical reasons why the spray does so well in Brazil.
0:05:53 > 0:05:58What we find in a lot of our Latin American markets is that they use more product.
0:05:58 > 0:06:02They want fresher fragrances and they shower more as well,
0:06:02 > 0:06:08so the usage occasions in hotter climates are very, very different from the colder climates
0:06:08 > 0:06:13and that's effectively where the drive of growth on the brand comes from.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17Three teams of perfumers are in competition.
0:06:17 > 0:06:21This group believes they've got Brazil bottled.
0:06:22 > 0:06:24'This is a coveted brief.
0:06:24 > 0:06:29'This represents a lot of money to the house that wins.
0:06:29 > 0:06:35'And if they hear that their fragrances are not loved or that they're not promising,
0:06:35 > 0:06:38'it's very disappointing for them.
0:06:38 > 0:06:41'There's a good chance there will be tears.'
0:06:43 > 0:06:50We are at the... At this point in our evaluation, I know that we're not so happy.
0:06:50 > 0:06:55And so we would like to take a look at where we are here.
0:06:55 > 0:06:57Let's just smell, OK?
0:06:57 > 0:07:04'We are designing a product that is specifically for a 16 to 25-year-old consumer.
0:07:04 > 0:07:10'You would tend to do a product that would smell young.'
0:07:10 > 0:07:15Someone in this room is fascinated with the coconut part of the...
0:07:15 > 0:07:19'Brazilians love fruity ingredients, they love floral ingredients,
0:07:19 > 0:07:22'so that what I am looking for captures that,
0:07:22 > 0:07:27'but also something that really is tasty and yummy
0:07:27 > 0:07:29'and yet decidedly masculine.'
0:07:29 > 0:07:32Do you want to smell both themes maybe on skin?
0:07:32 > 0:07:38- Let's definitely go to skin, yes. I'm so happy that you've brought skin with you.- Let me test.
0:07:38 > 0:07:42The skin executive represents a teenage boy.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46He's probably lived on Pot Noodles and gone without showers for a week.
0:07:46 > 0:07:48OK, let's have a look.
0:07:52 > 0:07:54'Coconut is a yummy ingredient.'
0:07:54 > 0:07:59What I would really love to do to keep the fragrance sophisticated
0:07:59 > 0:08:04is find a way of sort of wrapping it, so that the sweetness so much isn't there.
0:08:04 > 0:08:07What if we mix the two?
0:08:07 > 0:08:10Pierre, come smell and see if you think it would work.
0:08:17 > 0:08:20Yeah, definitely. I think it's pretty feasible.
0:08:20 > 0:08:23Fragrance development is a journey.
0:08:23 > 0:08:28If we make this one-dimensional, then we will fail, but you won't make it one-dimensional
0:08:28 > 0:08:32and the magic now we need to see coming through from you
0:08:32 > 0:08:36is something that you want to smell and smell and smell and smell.
0:08:36 > 0:08:39Are guys going to remember this fragrance?
0:08:39 > 0:08:45You guys need to do a lot more work, so let's not be lazy now and say, "This is it."
0:08:45 > 0:08:51But please, you know, work on the sophistication, so we don't come across as being too cheap.
0:08:51 > 0:08:58It's worth the pain. The contract for just one new version will pay millions.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01It's a global brand
0:09:01 > 0:09:05and it's a huge, huge contract for us,
0:09:05 > 0:09:08so to win it, we'd have a pretty big party.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14'Gottlieb still has to see the competing teams,
0:09:14 > 0:09:19'then she'll go to Brazil to ask teenagers for their opinion.'
0:09:20 > 0:09:24It seems that there's quite a lot of work still to be done?
0:09:24 > 0:09:28There certainly is. We aren't finished with the process at all.
0:09:28 > 0:09:31The next few weeks are a crunch period for all of us.
0:09:31 > 0:09:37I will be meeting with the fragrance houses on a...a few days a week.
0:09:37 > 0:09:41As they create, I evaluate, go back again, create again.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44It's an elaborate process.
0:09:45 > 0:09:47And I will be taking to Brazil
0:09:47 > 0:09:52what I hope will be one single can of fragrance
0:09:52 > 0:09:57and relying on the data that comes out of this
0:09:57 > 0:10:02to tell us whether or not we have a fragrance that's done.
0:10:16 > 0:10:22Brazil's opinion matters. It's the fastest growing fragrance market on Earth.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28The people love anything perfumed.
0:10:30 > 0:10:34The latest craze is for tutti-frutti scented footwear.
0:10:37 > 0:10:43Everyone who can spends something on scented products, from perfume to air fresheners.
0:10:45 > 0:10:50To cap it all, when the temperature soars and the humidity gets too much,
0:10:50 > 0:10:53they shower it off and start all over again.
0:10:55 > 0:10:59For the fragrance industry, Brazil is the perfect storm.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04Even car dealers are fragrance-obsessed.
0:11:04 > 0:11:08This is the Aston Martin scent.
0:11:08 > 0:11:12Everyone coming into our show rooms will smell the scent.
0:11:14 > 0:11:18We can give them a small bottle for free.
0:11:18 > 0:11:22Not for free, you know. Nothing is free.
0:11:22 > 0:11:28Brazil used to be politically unstable which made foreign investors wary.
0:11:28 > 0:11:31But all that has changed.
0:11:31 > 0:11:35We are in business for about three months.
0:11:35 > 0:11:42Initially, we thought we had a market in Brazil for around 25 units a year,
0:11:42 > 0:11:47but to our surprise, we sold already 25 in less than three months.
0:11:47 > 0:11:53They know that when they buy one car like this, they are paying more taxes than the value of the car,
0:11:53 > 0:11:58but they still want to have one of these babies. The whole country is coming up.
0:11:58 > 0:12:05We're having a lot more people in this country move to the middle class.
0:12:06 > 0:12:10Things are looking up...for some.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14Most people can't afford a bicycle, let alone an Aston Martin.
0:12:14 > 0:12:18But everybody wants a piece of Brazil's new wealth.
0:12:18 > 0:12:22Those who aren't rich can at least smell as though they are,
0:12:22 > 0:12:24but not with posh perfumes.
0:12:25 > 0:12:29The real money isn't in eau de toilette.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31It's in toilet cleaner.
0:12:31 > 0:12:36The big chemical companies are climbing over each other
0:12:36 > 0:12:40to make Latin bathrooms and kitchens rainforest-fresh.
0:12:41 > 0:12:46Flavia Motta works for the biggest fragrance corporation of all, Givaudan.
0:12:47 > 0:12:49OK, so here we are.
0:12:51 > 0:12:54For her, every day is laundry day.
0:12:58 > 0:13:05So, different types of washing machines. We have top loads that are very common in Brazil.
0:13:05 > 0:13:07Not so common in Brazil, the front loads.
0:13:07 > 0:13:10We also use drying machines.
0:13:13 > 0:13:16We wash towels with different fragrances
0:13:16 > 0:13:18in all these machines,
0:13:18 > 0:13:22so that then we can compare how we perceive this fragrance
0:13:22 > 0:13:27in the different moments, in the different washing phases -
0:13:27 > 0:13:30when we pour the product inside the machine,
0:13:30 > 0:13:33when it is soaking,
0:13:33 > 0:13:35then when it's washing,
0:13:35 > 0:13:38after, when the cycle finishes,
0:13:38 > 0:13:44to make sure that the fragrance develops, performs in the best way in all these moments.
0:13:44 > 0:13:48All of them are very important for the performance of the product,
0:13:48 > 0:13:54- but there are some that are what we call the magical moments.- The magical moments?- The magical moments.
0:13:54 > 0:13:58The ones that are the key ones for the decision on a product.
0:13:58 > 0:14:02So this is one of the magical moments when we talk about detergent powders.
0:14:02 > 0:14:06The cycle has just finished. I open the machine.
0:14:06 > 0:14:08I take it out...
0:14:08 > 0:14:13- I smell it in this way.- Is that the magical moment?- That's one of those.
0:14:13 > 0:14:15Yes, job well done.
0:14:15 > 0:14:20There is a very touching story. I went once on a visit up north
0:14:20 > 0:14:23to very low income consumers.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26It was a couple with four kids.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29The six of them would share the two beds.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32Although she was extremely poor,
0:14:32 > 0:14:38one of the best moments in her day was when they went to bed.
0:14:38 > 0:14:40And I said, "Why is that?"
0:14:40 > 0:14:47Because she owned just one bed sheet for each bed, but she would wash it every day.
0:14:47 > 0:14:53This washing powder would make the bed sheet very clean and above all perfumed.
0:14:53 > 0:14:57It was a way for her of inclusion to be able to afford...
0:14:57 > 0:15:01If she could not afford perfume itself,
0:15:01 > 0:15:05fragrance would come through products that she used in the house.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09TOILET FLUSHES
0:15:15 > 0:15:19Whenever Brazil visits the bathroom, Givaudan goes with them.
0:15:20 > 0:15:25There are around 50 million households in Brazil.
0:15:25 > 0:15:29All the perfumers have to do is correctly decipher their tastes.
0:15:31 > 0:15:36The problem is, they're changing with ever-increasing speed.
0:15:49 > 0:15:52In the past, scent fashions evolved more slowly.
0:15:53 > 0:15:58The Victorians loved rich, musky fragrances.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01Those tastes lasted for decades
0:16:01 > 0:16:05before the British fell in love with lighter perfumes.
0:16:08 > 0:16:14Simon and Amanda Brooke have re-created a Victorian perfume company.
0:16:14 > 0:16:18They hope the scents of the past can be their future,
0:16:18 > 0:16:21but can they really turn back the taste clock?
0:16:21 > 0:16:24'You need to do this with your nose.'
0:16:24 > 0:16:26HE SNIFFS
0:16:26 > 0:16:30Really breathe out hard and fast, then smell in very slowly.
0:16:30 > 0:16:35The Brookes are not trained perfumers and turn to scent savant Roja Dove for advice.
0:16:35 > 0:16:38This is Rose de Mai.
0:16:38 > 0:16:43Dove is a perfumer who champions the grand fragrances of yesteryear.
0:16:43 > 0:16:47He provides a sketch of the scent tastes of the 1890s.
0:16:47 > 0:16:54Jasmine suggests something a little bit more, you know, a button undone, a bit of decollete on show.
0:16:54 > 0:16:58The two together give you something very feminine and luxurious.
0:16:58 > 0:17:04So this jasmine you're smelling here costs just over double the price of gold bullion.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07Despite their reputation for sobriety,
0:17:07 > 0:17:11Victorians would lose control at a whiff of civet,
0:17:11 > 0:17:14the smell of a wildcat's anus.
0:17:14 > 0:17:18This material is now banned as a natural material.
0:17:18 > 0:17:22I have a little cache of it which I've had for years,
0:17:22 > 0:17:27so I thought that this warranted smelling the real stuff.
0:17:27 > 0:17:30It's quite interesting when you smell civet
0:17:30 > 0:17:33to think that in Ethiopia where it comes from,
0:17:33 > 0:17:35brides bathe in it,
0:17:35 > 0:17:41grooms put it in their hair as a pomade on the wedding night and...
0:17:41 > 0:17:45in Britain, in Georgian Britain, this was the scent of the dandy,
0:17:45 > 0:17:48because it smells totally faecal,
0:17:48 > 0:17:53so be prepared, it's not the prettiest thing you're ever likely to smell.
0:17:53 > 0:17:55Hmm...
0:17:55 > 0:18:00It's very, very sensual. I mean, this is the animal world.
0:18:00 > 0:18:02It reminds me of something.
0:18:02 > 0:18:07You have come a long way. If you don't think civet's horrid, you have come a long way.
0:18:14 > 0:18:19Simon and Amanda Brooke's home used to smell of air freshener
0:18:19 > 0:18:22and occasionally Old Spice.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26Now, on Monday mornings, Rose de Mai, Tonka Bean
0:18:26 > 0:18:30and Opopanax intermingle with bacon and egg.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38Simon Brooke was interested in his family tree.
0:18:38 > 0:18:41Three generations back was John Grossmith,
0:18:41 > 0:18:44perfumer by royal appointment.
0:18:45 > 0:18:47The real treasure, which is here...
0:18:47 > 0:18:51And I ought to have my white gloves on for this.
0:18:52 > 0:18:59But here you have in John Lipscomb Grossmith's own hand
0:18:59 > 0:19:03the original formulae for almond oil, brilliantine,
0:19:03 > 0:19:06almond shaving cream, hygienic salts.
0:19:06 > 0:19:11Here's a special one - Regal, which was produced for King Edward.
0:19:11 > 0:19:16Here we have... Ah, this is a good one - Hasu-no-Hana,
0:19:16 > 0:19:18so with rose and jasmine.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21New Mown Hay
0:19:21 > 0:19:25with lots of jasmine and rose and orange.
0:19:25 > 0:19:29Oakmoss with civet. Page after page.
0:19:29 > 0:19:34Clearly, the perfume or the creativity of those sorts of things was in his genes.
0:19:34 > 0:19:38In bringing a long-dead perfumery back to life,
0:19:38 > 0:19:41the Brookes have changed their own.
0:19:41 > 0:19:47They sold the weekend cottage and gave up their old jobs to re-create three antique scents.
0:19:47 > 0:19:51This isn't my best attempt. It'll turn out looking all right.
0:19:53 > 0:19:56I read Archaeology at university.
0:19:56 > 0:20:00But when I graduated, I became an accountant.
0:20:01 > 0:20:05We acquired the company
0:20:05 > 0:20:08because it seemed...
0:20:09 > 0:20:11..a kind of tidy thing to do.
0:20:11 > 0:20:15It was about saying, "Let's get this back into the family.
0:20:15 > 0:20:20"It used to belong to the family. We found it. It's not doing anything.
0:20:20 > 0:20:25"Let's see if we can just get it back into family ownership."
0:20:26 > 0:20:30A lot of the genealogy stuff is emotionally driven.
0:20:30 > 0:20:37And then we realised actually it was probably quite a good business proposition as well.
0:20:37 > 0:20:41One or two people said, "There's a recession on."
0:20:41 > 0:20:46But mainly people said, "Wow, what an amazing idea!"
0:20:48 > 0:20:50HE SPRAYS PERFUME
0:20:50 > 0:20:55The Brookes were innocents in paradise when Roja Dove took them under his wing.
0:20:56 > 0:21:01In 2008, I gave a lecture at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04At the end of it, a couple came and said,
0:21:04 > 0:21:10"We've just discovered that we are direct descendants of the Grossmith family."
0:21:10 > 0:21:15And I said, "Oh!" We started to talk about how maybe this house could be revived.
0:21:15 > 0:21:20But given how fast scent tastes are changing today, is it possible
0:21:20 > 0:21:24that perfumes created over a century ago can still have appeal?
0:21:24 > 0:21:28Some ideas they had were so removed from how the market is today.
0:21:28 > 0:21:32It is not what is generally fashionable in the market,
0:21:32 > 0:21:37but the cost of producing a scent like this is extraordinary
0:21:37 > 0:21:42because of the volume of natural raw materials of the very highest quality.
0:21:42 > 0:21:47I don't think that it will ever be mainstream, but that's part of its appeal.
0:21:47 > 0:21:53And this very slight retrospective feel, they're of a particular period in history
0:21:53 > 0:21:58and I think certain people crave it because it suggests something legitimate and authentic.
0:21:58 > 0:22:04The Brookes hope to reconnect perfume connoisseurs with the scents of the past.
0:22:04 > 0:22:09They're not making fragrance for the fast-changing mass market.
0:22:10 > 0:22:14People probably like what they would call a light perfume,
0:22:14 > 0:22:18something that's got a lot of head notes and then rather disappears,
0:22:18 > 0:22:22that they refresh during the day several times.
0:22:22 > 0:22:24Ours are not like that.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28You see the names are very exotic.
0:22:28 > 0:22:33This is designed to conjure up the Japanese lotus lily and the mysterious country of Japan
0:22:33 > 0:22:37because in 1888 it was only just kind of opening up.
0:22:37 > 0:22:41- Guerlain did Mitsouko.- Everybody is very interested in the Orient.
0:22:41 > 0:22:45This has got a lot of bitter orange at the top.
0:22:45 > 0:22:47Quite a bitter start.
0:22:47 > 0:22:51- I think it's like dry wine or something.- Yeah.
0:22:51 > 0:22:57'People often say, "That's very different. I haven't smelt anything like that before."
0:22:57 > 0:23:00'And I think they always find them very rich.'
0:23:00 > 0:23:05Let it settle. Let it die down and then smell it in a few minutes' time.
0:23:05 > 0:23:09It's such a personal thing. Does it remind you of anything?
0:23:09 > 0:23:12Yes, Shalimar. One of them I absolutely detest...
0:23:12 > 0:23:14'It isn't instant gratification.
0:23:14 > 0:23:20'Obviously, there's a lovely start and a lovely heart note, but it carries on, there's progress.
0:23:20 > 0:23:22'And it takes time.'
0:23:22 > 0:23:26- ..a fashion for these ingredients. - I like this.- Good.
0:23:26 > 0:23:31- Have we got the name of this? - You have. That's Shem-el-Nessim.
0:23:32 > 0:23:35'They are a very rich mixture.'
0:23:35 > 0:23:39I think it's rich from start to finish.
0:23:40 > 0:23:46These perfumes transported Victorian ladies to the exotic Orient.
0:23:48 > 0:23:53Over at Harrods, the ladies of the modern Orient can't get enough of them.
0:23:55 > 0:23:58Roja Dove has to get to work early.
0:23:58 > 0:24:04It's just coming up to twenty to ten and the doors of Harrods will open at ten o'clock.
0:24:04 > 0:24:08In the summer, we have a very large Middle Eastern clientele.
0:24:08 > 0:24:10They love scent.
0:24:10 > 0:24:15The number one doesn't translate into English from Arabic
0:24:15 > 0:24:21because most of our Middle Eastern clients will buy three, six, ten, twelve bottles of fragrance.
0:24:23 > 0:24:30We have just received in these fantastic presentations which are in Baccarat crystal.
0:24:30 > 0:24:33The bottles are made totally by hand.
0:24:33 > 0:24:37And I just heard this morning that a client came yesterday
0:24:37 > 0:24:41who wanted to buy three pieces of each of these fragrances.
0:24:41 > 0:24:46The Grossmith Baccarat presentations retail for around £6,000 a piece.
0:24:48 > 0:24:52- And they wanted nine of them? - They wanted nine of them.
0:24:52 > 0:24:55- That's one order?- That's one order.
0:24:55 > 0:25:00The Brookes' big opportunity might be selling the Orient a vision of Victorian England.
0:25:04 > 0:25:08Ann Gottlieb is on her own odyssey.
0:25:11 > 0:25:17After weeks of refinement and adjustment, she has what she hopes is the next Lynx,
0:25:17 > 0:25:23but until the teenage lads of Sao Paulo have approved it, it's still work in progress.
0:25:25 > 0:25:31If Gottlieb has misjudged the Brazilian scent palate, it'll be back to the drawing board.
0:25:31 > 0:25:34Hi, it's great to see you again.
0:25:34 > 0:25:37Great to see you too. How was your trip...?
0:25:41 > 0:25:46I am so happy to be in this city. I love Brazil.
0:25:46 > 0:25:51Brazil is the biggest fragrance market in the world and fragrance is selling like crazy.
0:25:51 > 0:25:53And it is an opportunity
0:25:53 > 0:25:57for brands to come here and sell their wares.
0:25:57 > 0:26:05And you don't get what they like unless you talk to them and see what they keep in their bathrooms.
0:26:05 > 0:26:11And that's the way to really create products that they love.
0:26:15 > 0:26:23'At the last Brazilian census, there were over 27 million boys about to turn 15.'
0:26:23 > 0:26:26- What do you do if they don't like it?- What will we do?
0:26:26 > 0:26:31Well, at this point in time, it's really just a piece of information,
0:26:31 > 0:26:38so that we have some idea of really forecasting and doing all of the other logistics.
0:26:38 > 0:26:44At this point, it will be very sad if they don't like it.
0:26:44 > 0:26:47We are going in thinking that...
0:26:47 > 0:26:51This is sort of what is called the disaster check.
0:26:51 > 0:26:57And I hope that that word never pops up again in the course of this product.
0:26:59 > 0:27:05One of the aspects about this culture that fascinates me so is their attitude about sex.
0:27:05 > 0:27:11It's extraordinarily liberal and free and this is true of guys and girls,
0:27:11 > 0:27:16which maybe is one of the reasons they smile so much all the time.
0:27:16 > 0:27:18Is it all about sex?
0:27:18 > 0:27:23Um... It's all about sensuality. I'm not sure it's all about sex.
0:27:23 > 0:27:26For guys, it's all about sex.
0:27:28 > 0:27:35Gottlieb has 48 hours to hear if groups of adolescents like her bodyspray.
0:27:36 > 0:27:39The boys are younger than Gottlieb had expected,
0:27:39 > 0:27:43so the focus group has to feel informal, a bit of a game.
0:27:50 > 0:27:55Behind a two-way mirror, executives hang on their every word
0:27:55 > 0:27:58with millions of dollars at stake.
0:27:58 > 0:28:05When it comes time for the boys to grade the scent, the results are curiously similar.
0:28:05 > 0:28:06Ten.
0:28:06 > 0:28:09- Oito.- Eight. Ten.
0:28:09 > 0:28:10- Nove.- Nine.
0:28:10 > 0:28:12- Seite.- Seven.
0:28:12 > 0:28:15- Seite.- Seven.- Nove.- Nine.
0:28:15 > 0:28:19Look at how uncomfortable it makes them. They're all giggling.
0:28:24 > 0:28:30- All the others seem to repeat... - They use the same words. - The same words.
0:28:30 > 0:28:36Sometimes in these, one person's opinion dominates and then everybody shares the same opinion.
0:28:39 > 0:28:43I travelled quite a distance to come here,
0:28:43 > 0:28:47so that when a chunk of time is somewhat wasted
0:28:47 > 0:28:51because the group does not give any feedback that's viable,
0:28:51 > 0:28:54it's frustrating, it's a waste of time.
0:28:56 > 0:28:59Failure is not an option.
0:28:59 > 0:29:03The middle market is incredibly competitive
0:29:03 > 0:29:08and other companies have been making their mark here for decades.
0:29:13 > 0:29:20Sales to Brazilian fragrance fans account for 20% of Avon's worldwide revenue.
0:29:24 > 0:29:29Juliana de Faria and Ana Alvarez are marketing executives.
0:29:33 > 0:29:37We've got a lot of different words to talk about smells.
0:29:37 > 0:29:41It's like the Eskimos with the words for ice or cold or water, whatever.
0:29:41 > 0:29:45So we have... LISTS PORTUGUESE TERMS
0:29:45 > 0:29:50Almost like slangs for describing bad odour.
0:29:51 > 0:29:53It's just a lot of bad words!
0:29:53 > 0:29:57But then you have a lot of good words for describing when you smell good.
0:29:57 > 0:30:00MORE PORTUGUESE TERMS
0:30:01 > 0:30:03A lot of "inha"!
0:30:03 > 0:30:08- What do they mean? What do those words mean? - Fresh and clean, mostly.
0:30:08 > 0:30:12- But the "inha" makes it... - Yummy.- Yummy.
0:30:16 > 0:30:22Avon's success depends on women selling an intimate product
0:30:22 > 0:30:24to customers who are also friends.
0:30:24 > 0:30:29In Brazil, they don't have a sales force. They have an army.
0:30:32 > 0:30:351.5 million reps in Brazil alone.
0:30:35 > 0:30:40- We have...- 1.5 million women selling Avon cosmetics?- Women and men.
0:30:40 > 0:30:45Almost 1% of the Brazilian population are Avon men.
0:30:45 > 0:30:52Every woman, every man, they don't have access to the Chanels of the world.
0:30:52 > 0:30:57So what happens from a taste-making perspective, the Brazilian market is kind of an island
0:30:57 > 0:31:02where local players have sort of shaped the way Brazil smells.
0:31:04 > 0:31:05Ahhhh!
0:31:05 > 0:31:08Paixao! Paixao!
0:31:09 > 0:31:15Trends that are very pervasive in New York or in Europe don't necessarily translate here.
0:31:15 > 0:31:22So when we brief a fragrance house, an international perfumer that's developing something for Avon,
0:31:22 > 0:31:28it has to take into account Brazil and interpret the trends from a Brazilian perspective.
0:31:28 > 0:31:32And if you don't do well here, with an Avon fragrance,
0:31:32 > 0:31:38- are you likely to get knocked off the list? - Absolutely, absolutely.
0:31:40 > 0:31:46Some of Avon's scents are manufactured locally by fragrance company Givaudan.
0:31:46 > 0:31:50They believe in total immersion
0:31:50 > 0:31:57and have brought French perfumer Thierry Bessard to live here and permanently adjust his nose.
0:31:58 > 0:32:02It looks nice, but very...strong.
0:32:02 > 0:32:07Very natural. It's a bit creamy as well. Quite interesting.
0:32:07 > 0:32:12I think that would be very good in a masculine or feminine fragrance.
0:32:16 > 0:32:21'I came here for six months and it has been 15 years now.
0:32:21 > 0:32:26'To me as a perfumer, it's fantastic to work in a country
0:32:26 > 0:32:29'where all the people love fragrance, you know.'
0:32:29 > 0:32:32- Everest.- Everest?
0:32:32 > 0:32:36OK, so that's probably why it smells so fresh.
0:32:36 > 0:32:40'Here it's very important that a fragrance is always very fresh.
0:32:40 > 0:32:47'It has to be fresh and clean. At the same time, they want something that is a bit sensual as well.'
0:32:50 > 0:32:54Smells have different meanings in different cultures.
0:32:54 > 0:32:58It's been an education for the Frenchman.
0:32:58 > 0:33:04Fruity notes, you know, are not the same as in Europe, partly because you don't have the same fruits.
0:33:04 > 0:33:09In Europe, vanilla is very sweet and it's a heavy fragrance.
0:33:09 > 0:33:14Here it is very often considered as a fresh fragrance.
0:33:14 > 0:33:18'You have to adapt to that type of thinking.'
0:33:22 > 0:33:25Thank you very much.
0:33:29 > 0:33:31OK. It was...
0:33:31 > 0:33:34Kenzo, Homme.
0:33:36 > 0:33:39'I was certainly confused with lavender.'
0:33:39 > 0:33:45When you come from Europe, you think lavender is for the old lady or is a masculine fragrance.
0:33:45 > 0:33:49Here it is very much loved by women, actually.
0:33:51 > 0:33:56Actually, you wouldn't find that many fragrances with chocolate or coffee here.
0:33:56 > 0:33:59I think partly because...
0:33:59 > 0:34:05You know, they don't like to find on their skin something that they drink all the time.
0:34:05 > 0:34:10Coffee is very strong here and coffee for them is cheap, OK?
0:34:10 > 0:34:15It's the same with orange. Brazil produces a lot of oranges,
0:34:15 > 0:34:20so if you have orange in a fragrance, this is something that is cheap.
0:34:29 > 0:34:31Fahrenheit, OK.
0:34:34 > 0:34:36This...
0:34:36 > 0:34:39Well, it is typically a mango smell,
0:34:39 > 0:34:45but for those who don't know it's a bit peachy, apricot, that kind of fruit.
0:34:45 > 0:34:53- You wouldn't use that in a perfume, would you?- I would, I would. Not alone and not obviously mango.
0:34:54 > 0:34:59Bessard is concerned with public smells, but also private ones.
0:35:01 > 0:35:06His tireless pursuit of local knowledge takes him into people's homes
0:35:06 > 0:35:10to keep abreast of changing scent fashions.
0:35:10 > 0:35:14The next is Social Class C. Her name is Ana Celia.
0:35:14 > 0:35:19He and his colleague, Flavia Motta, make regular forays into the suburbs
0:35:19 > 0:35:22to scratch and sniff.
0:35:22 > 0:35:27She wears, uh, lots of... local brands.
0:35:27 > 0:35:31We must try to understand better.
0:35:31 > 0:35:33How heavy a user is she?
0:35:33 > 0:35:37Ah...she wears fragrance every day, seven days a week.
0:35:37 > 0:35:41When asked to describe her favourite fragrance, she says...
0:35:41 > 0:35:45Funny. "It smells like a rich lady."
0:35:45 > 0:35:51- She wants to smell like a rich lady? - Yes.- OK.- It's inclusion. Social Class C.- Yeah.
0:36:02 > 0:36:07OK, this was the lavender from Avon that she is using a lot.
0:36:08 > 0:36:10And she cannot be without it.
0:36:14 > 0:36:19It's very refreshing and it really makes you feel very clean.
0:36:20 > 0:36:25This one is from Natura. It's pitanga, pitanga is a local fruit.
0:36:25 > 0:36:30Ah, this one is an air freshener, actually.
0:36:31 > 0:36:37This one is passion flower and passion flower she likes better, actually.
0:36:37 > 0:36:41This one is the one that she uses mostly at night.
0:36:41 > 0:36:46This fragrance is what she calls...cologne.
0:36:46 > 0:36:52Actually, they are baby fragrances, originally, but...
0:36:52 > 0:36:56she likes them because she said, well, it's...
0:36:56 > 0:37:01It's a good smell. She doesn't know how to explain it further.
0:37:05 > 0:37:11For now, Ana Celia's collection includes local products that nod to western tastes.
0:37:11 > 0:37:15Smells for the upwardly mobile. But for how long?
0:37:19 > 0:37:26'Europe and the US still have a big influence on the Brazilian perfumery, but...'
0:37:26 > 0:37:31I'm pretty sure that one day we're going to see the reverse.
0:37:38 > 0:37:43'In North London, the Brookes are looking to different horizons.
0:37:43 > 0:37:49'They are preparing a nine-bottle order for a client in the Middle East.'
0:37:49 > 0:37:54Can you manage? Is it heavy? Why don't we just push this lot out?
0:37:54 > 0:38:01'Their scents are usually supplied in simple bottles, but there is something more exclusive available.'
0:38:01 > 0:38:03Inside we have...
0:38:05 > 0:38:10..one beautiful little bottle.
0:38:10 > 0:38:17- Made from the original mould the family commissioned nearly 100 years ago.- Don't unwrap it over the sofa!
0:38:18 > 0:38:23Hand-cut. And with pure gold as part of that etching process.
0:38:23 > 0:38:25- Real gold?- Real gold, pure gold.
0:38:25 > 0:38:31Each stopper is individual to the particular flacon.
0:38:31 > 0:38:36Just put it in. And the way to lock it is with a quarter turn.
0:38:36 > 0:38:40I feel very proud that we've found the mould
0:38:40 > 0:38:47and proud of my ancestors for having the foresight to commission one! We're very lucky.
0:38:47 > 0:38:51So this is for a special order. It's our first commercial order
0:38:51 > 0:38:56for a very special customer in the Middle East. He's ordered nine.
0:38:56 > 0:39:00- And who is that customer? - I'd rather not say.
0:39:00 > 0:39:03- They're special people.- OK.
0:39:03 > 0:39:07It's going to a royal family in the Middle East.
0:39:07 > 0:39:11'This precious consignment is off to the airport and so is Simon.
0:39:11 > 0:39:17'There are rich pickings to be had in the Gulf and a sales drive is in order.
0:39:20 > 0:39:25'Bahrain is unexplored territory for Grossmith.
0:39:26 > 0:39:31'Brooke flies in to launch his trio of Victorian beauties
0:39:31 > 0:39:36'in the kind of place that inspired his ancestors, but which they never saw.'
0:39:39 > 0:39:42No leakages, nothing broken. Phew!
0:39:42 > 0:39:50The launch party is at six o'clock tomorrow. We have the British Ambassador. He's going to be there.
0:39:50 > 0:39:54And various VIPs. They love the English in the Middle East.
0:39:54 > 0:39:57Darn hot, though.
0:40:01 > 0:40:04'Hot and very humid.
0:40:04 > 0:40:11'The scents of Araby have to be strong to survive the climate, as the local competition knows well.'
0:40:11 > 0:40:16No more. They are finished. All Arabic people is taking this.
0:40:16 > 0:40:23Arabic people use only strong perfume. Very strong, this one. Arabic perfume always very strong.
0:40:23 > 0:40:27All Arabic people, all people is taking this perfume.
0:40:27 > 0:40:32This is popular, this one. Arabic people is taking this. Very strong.
0:40:32 > 0:40:34Perfume genital...
0:40:34 > 0:40:37- Genital?- Oil perfume, this one.
0:40:37 > 0:40:40Very old perfume, this one.
0:40:41 > 0:40:44'Doing business on a new frontier,
0:40:44 > 0:40:47'local knowledge is key.
0:40:49 > 0:40:57'Brooke is joined by Syrian perfume entrepreneur Bashir Nasri, a man with connections.'
0:40:58 > 0:41:02A friend of mine, Sheikh Mohammed Asmawi,
0:41:02 > 0:41:04is very wealthy man.
0:41:04 > 0:41:0950% kerosene, British Petroleum, Saudi Arabia.
0:41:10 > 0:41:11Wow.
0:41:11 > 0:41:13And he LOVES perfume.
0:41:13 > 0:41:18He is one of the ones who will buy yours, I can assure.
0:41:18 > 0:41:20- Is he really?- One day, yes.
0:41:23 > 0:41:29I can feel the glass is really, really hot, but we haven't been outside long enough
0:41:29 > 0:41:34- to know what the climate is like, I don't think.- It's 126 degrees.
0:41:34 > 0:41:37Uh-huh? Wow.
0:41:37 > 0:41:39That's a record for me.
0:41:39 > 0:41:46'Simon wants a local distributor and Bashir takes him to meet the Al Hawaj family,
0:41:46 > 0:41:49'perfume merchants across the Gulf.'
0:41:49 > 0:41:53Perfume, fragrance in the Middle East is their life.
0:41:53 > 0:41:55It's their life.
0:41:57 > 0:42:02British lady consume 100ml in six months.
0:42:03 > 0:42:06Here, less than one week.
0:42:07 > 0:42:12I'm sure in a few years everybody will know about Grossmith.
0:42:12 > 0:42:14It's a pleasure to meet you.
0:42:14 > 0:42:18I've brought some treasure to show you.
0:42:18 > 0:42:23Shem-el-Nessim is Arabic for smelling the breeze. The best of English perfumery.
0:42:28 > 0:42:34'You have to understand and know and respect the local ways of doing things.
0:42:36 > 0:42:39'You forget that at your peril.'
0:42:41 > 0:42:45I've never had a date like this before.
0:42:45 > 0:42:52This is my new world! I love it. When you've got something as good as this, where can you go wrong?
0:42:59 > 0:43:06'Brooke is confident, but his scents will have to contend with sub-zero air conditioning
0:43:06 > 0:43:10'and summer temperatures around 140 degrees.
0:43:12 > 0:43:17'The most exciting thing about Simon used to be a pink silk tie.
0:43:17 > 0:43:21'Now he consorts with merchant princes and the kind of customers
0:43:21 > 0:43:26'who can spend their days snoozing, parking and shopping in malls.
0:43:26 > 0:43:31'The launch is to take place in an Al Hawaj perfumery.'
0:43:33 > 0:43:37Grossmith! Everywhere! Grossmith.
0:43:37 > 0:43:38Yes!
0:43:40 > 0:43:46'Back at home, an event like this might pull in the squire-archy and a local beauty queen.
0:43:46 > 0:43:49'Simon greets the British Ambassador.'
0:43:49 > 0:43:54Hello. Thank you very much indeed for coming along to this.
0:43:54 > 0:43:59I'm still getting used to this. ..Your Excellency, honoured guests
0:43:59 > 0:44:04and friends in Bahrain, friends in Al Hawaj, my new...
0:44:04 > 0:44:11I've thought about what my Grossmith ancestors would think and they'd be absolutely delighted!
0:44:11 > 0:44:17'They'd be even more pleased if they knew the identity of the next Grossmith customer.
0:44:25 > 0:44:30'The morning after the night before, there's a call from the palace.
0:44:30 > 0:44:34'A courtier wants to meet them at the Al Hawaj offices.'
0:44:34 > 0:44:38The King, when he appoints a buyer, will not appoint anybody.
0:44:38 > 0:44:43He'll appoint really somebody who is expert
0:44:43 > 0:44:47and keen to find for His Majesty the fragrance which he loves.
0:44:47 > 0:44:54They know about him. They know everything about their boss, the King, and they make the selection.
0:44:54 > 0:45:02- This is it.- So there we are. - The packaging, presentation, everything is absolutely delightful.
0:45:02 > 0:45:06It's the very best materials without reference to cost.
0:45:08 > 0:45:11This is beautiful.
0:45:11 > 0:45:18'Peter Dodds has the ear and the credit card of the royal family. He selects all their luxury items.'
0:45:18 > 0:45:21This is Shem-el-Nessim.
0:45:21 > 0:45:23A sweet opening...
0:45:23 > 0:45:25Yes.
0:45:25 > 0:45:28- This is... - Shem-el-Nessim.
0:45:28 > 0:45:32Florentine auras, so very, very expensive auras.
0:45:32 > 0:45:37And, um, it's becoming my favourite. It's a favourite out in the Gulf.
0:45:37 > 0:45:43We've used really lovely materials. We've gone for it and done it properly.
0:45:43 > 0:45:46It's a real pleasure to share with you.
0:45:46 > 0:45:52- Oh, that's gorgeous. - This is the perfume your grand-grand-grandmother...
0:45:52 > 0:45:57- This is the perfume. - It's really lovely, really lovely.
0:45:58 > 0:46:00Mm.
0:46:00 > 0:46:05- He'll love it, this one, believe me. - They're gorgeous, they really were stunning.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08- Yes.- Yes!
0:46:08 > 0:46:11- Wear by ladies also.- Yes.
0:46:11 > 0:46:13This is very...
0:46:15 > 0:46:17Yes.
0:46:20 > 0:46:22'It's the palace. State business.'
0:46:22 > 0:46:27OK, three o'clock. Have the swimming pool ready.
0:46:28 > 0:46:32Yes, please. All right, thank you very much. Bye bye.
0:46:34 > 0:46:36So this is the spicy one.
0:46:36 > 0:46:39This is a lovely one.
0:46:39 > 0:46:44The riches of the Middle East. Gold-plated.
0:46:44 > 0:46:46- Like the first one...- Yes.
0:46:53 > 0:46:56- Hello? - 'The palace - again.'
0:46:56 > 0:47:01Fine, thank you, sir. Yes, how are you, sir? Good.
0:47:01 > 0:47:07Yes, he is aware of this. He will inform Major Khaled to arrange this.
0:47:07 > 0:47:09Yes.
0:47:10 > 0:47:12OK.
0:47:12 > 0:47:14No problem.
0:47:17 > 0:47:19All right, sir.
0:47:19 > 0:47:21OK, sir.
0:47:21 > 0:47:23Thank you.
0:47:23 > 0:47:26Thank you. Bye bye.
0:47:28 > 0:47:30Sorry, gentlemen!
0:47:30 > 0:47:31Yes...
0:47:31 > 0:47:37I have a little gift for you, which I would be very grateful if you would accept.
0:47:37 > 0:47:44- There's a 2ml vial of each of the three in there for you. - It's beautiful. Thank you.
0:47:44 > 0:47:50There's always been a stigma in the West, to a certain extent, that men shouldn't have a manicure.
0:47:50 > 0:47:55- It was shame.- Ashamed. It wasn't a manly thing to do!
0:47:55 > 0:47:57But, of course, now
0:47:57 > 0:48:02men, you know, in... the Arabic part of the world
0:48:02 > 0:48:05and even in Far Eastern parts,
0:48:05 > 0:48:11I think they tend to look after themselves better than probably we do in the West.
0:48:11 > 0:48:14- It's part of their culture. - Yes.
0:48:14 > 0:48:16Pleasant journey back.
0:48:16 > 0:48:18What a charming man.
0:48:18 > 0:48:21- Yes!- The brothers in action!
0:48:21 > 0:48:23Yes! Yes!
0:48:26 > 0:48:30'Dealings with the palace are hush hush, not rush rush.
0:48:30 > 0:48:38'Simon and Bashir head for the airport and Oman, the next kingdom in need of their fragrance.
0:48:44 > 0:48:49'In Brazil, it's morning for Ann Gottlieb.
0:48:49 > 0:48:53'Her first Axe focus group didn't yield reliable results.
0:48:53 > 0:48:59'The second must deliver the local stamp of approval for her new body spray.
0:49:06 > 0:49:10'Gottlieb has just 12 hours left in Brazil.
0:49:10 > 0:49:14'These teams have more power than they know.'
0:49:16 > 0:49:17Hi.
0:49:17 > 0:49:20I'm Ann Gottlieb.
0:49:25 > 0:49:29This looks like a perfect group. Absolutely perfect.
0:49:29 > 0:49:32They're certainly the age.
0:49:33 > 0:49:38In just thinking about what my expectations were,
0:49:38 > 0:49:40this is...this is it.
0:49:40 > 0:49:45TRANSLATING: Now I would like you to introduce yourselves. I am 20 years old.
0:49:45 > 0:49:48- 20.- I study civil engineering.
0:49:48 > 0:49:54- I'm engaged.- Ooh!- I use a deodorant to make me feel confident, you know?
0:49:54 > 0:50:01How do you... apply the deodorant? Do you mean to show it? Yes.
0:50:01 > 0:50:05Aerosol. It's a spray, so I go like this.
0:50:05 > 0:50:08Look at him! All over the place.
0:50:10 > 0:50:15Then I apply it on my body as well when I am going to play soccer.
0:50:15 > 0:50:20'The test version of Axe. Has Ann correctly predicted their tastes?'
0:50:23 > 0:50:28When I'm watching respondents in a focus group, I watch their faces
0:50:28 > 0:50:34as well as anything else because their eyes and facial expressions
0:50:34 > 0:50:39speak volumes about what their nose is perceiving.
0:50:39 > 0:50:43TRANSLATION: I think it's very good. What does it make you think of?
0:50:43 > 0:50:46It's a strong smell of flowers.
0:50:48 > 0:50:52I've tried some others and this is the best.
0:50:52 > 0:50:54The best of all.
0:50:54 > 0:51:01This is a type of deodorant that you can spray on your body. You don't need to wear perfume.
0:51:01 > 0:51:03It's pleasant, it's good.
0:51:03 > 0:51:06It reminds me of a pine fragrance.
0:51:06 > 0:51:09It reminds me of...
0:51:09 > 0:51:12LAUGHTER ..the guest bedroom,
0:51:12 > 0:51:17the guest bedroom when you have, like, good soaps and flowers.
0:51:17 > 0:51:21And it smells of woman, you know.
0:51:21 > 0:51:25Of women. It's like a woman's perfume, woman's fragrance.
0:51:25 > 0:51:31The other brands, I don't think construction workers could use, but not this one.
0:51:31 > 0:51:33This one they would use.
0:51:34 > 0:51:41That's interesting. I guess that's their idea of plumbers or something, right?
0:51:41 > 0:51:44Cos I like chocolate.
0:51:44 > 0:51:47Because everyone likes chocolate.
0:51:47 > 0:51:48So...
0:51:48 > 0:51:53They'll mix up the chocolate and my chocolate!
0:51:53 > 0:51:55It smells of cocoanut.
0:51:57 > 0:52:00And I think of Malibu, the drink.
0:52:05 > 0:52:13You've made me so happy because this is the newest one and I'm so glad you liked it.
0:52:13 > 0:52:17I heard that you thought that it smelled a little bit feminine.
0:52:17 > 0:52:23Men's fragrances are going in that direction. But who said cocoanut?
0:52:24 > 0:52:28There is. And you like chocolate, right?
0:52:28 > 0:52:33It's sort of like the chocolate fragrance, where it's very yummy.
0:52:33 > 0:52:40And the truth is that things that appeal to your mouth are sexy and they appeal to your nose, too.
0:52:40 > 0:52:45That's what makes you think it's sexy. ..We had some concerns
0:52:45 > 0:52:51about the fact that this was a brand-new fragrance and it was a little bit on the feminine side.
0:52:51 > 0:52:58And so it was reassuring to hear that even though they perceived that,
0:52:58 > 0:53:00it was fine.
0:53:00 > 0:53:05What I also did find about this and it certainly plays into
0:53:05 > 0:53:10my own knowledge of the Brazilians is they're happy.
0:53:10 > 0:53:14And they sat here talking about fragrance in loving terms.
0:53:14 > 0:53:19And that's exactly why I have such faith that this country
0:53:19 > 0:53:24is going to just...fly ahead of everybody else in fragrance usage.
0:53:24 > 0:53:31'Gottlieb heads home to make the spray even more of a must-have for these boys.
0:53:34 > 0:53:40'Simon and Amanda's scents already enjoy must-have status in the Gulf States.'
0:53:40 > 0:53:44We've been very fortunate. We've had lots of cover.
0:53:44 > 0:53:51In this sort of magazine, there's a whole section dedicated to our launch in Qatar.
0:53:51 > 0:53:57'Now the breeze has carried the heady fragrance into Central Asia.'
0:53:57 > 0:54:00We have an order from Kazakhstan
0:54:00 > 0:54:05and he had gone into Roja's perfumery
0:54:05 > 0:54:07and seen our perfume, smelt it
0:54:07 > 0:54:14and just thought it was stunning and sent me an email from Almaty in Kazakhstan.
0:54:14 > 0:54:17And we'll ship out to Kazakhstan.
0:54:17 > 0:54:23'His Victorian potions have served him well, but how long before Simon changes direction
0:54:23 > 0:54:26'and makes something more modern?'
0:54:26 > 0:54:32It's an aim of ours to innovate. We've got to innovate the business to keep it going.
0:54:32 > 0:54:38Innovation means new perfumes, not just going to our back catalogue and taking, "Ah, this one was good.
0:54:38 > 0:54:41"Let's have a go at that."
0:54:41 > 0:54:46I don't think we'll be doing that with many of our... with many of our perfumes.
0:54:46 > 0:54:51We will innovate and that'll be a big thing.
0:54:51 > 0:54:55Will it be successful? Will it be liked? Will it...
0:54:55 > 0:54:58Will it have the romance?
0:55:02 > 0:55:06Good morning, everybody. And welcome.
0:55:06 > 0:55:10I'd like to introduce Simon Brooke, who owns the House of Grossmith.
0:55:10 > 0:55:12Thank you very much.
0:55:15 > 0:55:22Thank you very much, Roja. And thank you very much, everybody, for coming along this morning.
0:55:23 > 0:55:26'The Brookes face a challenge.
0:55:26 > 0:55:34'Their lineage is their strength, but brands that are only about the past risk becoming museums.
0:55:38 > 0:55:43'Simon and Amanda's next fragrances must nod to their antique heritage,
0:55:43 > 0:55:46'but smell of the 21st century.'
0:55:47 > 0:55:52We launched with three classic English perfumes.
0:55:52 > 0:55:55Perfumes in the future, for us,
0:55:55 > 0:56:00will be based on the original and then we go on this journey and we modernise.
0:56:00 > 0:56:04You've got to think that the market,
0:56:04 > 0:56:09you're creating something that you want to make people feel young.
0:56:09 > 0:56:13You want to change their perception of their age.
0:56:13 > 0:56:17And that's one of the obstacles, one of the hurdles
0:56:17 > 0:56:22that we need to overcome, I think, a little bit in the UK.
0:56:27 > 0:56:34'In New York, scent guru Ann Gottlieb is still hard at work on the Lynx account.
0:56:34 > 0:56:39'Input of the Brazilian teenagers is reshaping the next version.'
0:56:39 > 0:56:44A tremendous amount of work followed the trip to Brazil.
0:56:44 > 0:56:48We were going for something that was a little richer and darker fragrance
0:56:48 > 0:56:55and as a result of having the focus group opinions of all the people that we polled,
0:56:55 > 0:56:59we've started adding more freshness to the fragrances,
0:56:59 > 0:57:02a little bit of fruitiness.
0:57:04 > 0:57:10What's true for Axe is being replicated across the fragrance industry.
0:57:13 > 0:57:19What may have been businesses driven by the States or by Europe are going to be driven by China,
0:57:19 > 0:57:21by Brazil, by India.
0:57:21 > 0:57:24And marketers are gearing up for that.
0:57:24 > 0:57:28And we're looking at a cultural shift right now.
0:57:28 > 0:57:33So it may well be that tastes will shift and in ten years
0:57:33 > 0:57:37we will be impacted by what the Chinese like.
0:57:40 > 0:57:47The Western fragrance industry is trying to get to grips with the tastes of China, Brazil and India,
0:57:47 > 0:57:51but how long before these new markets are doing it for themselves,
0:57:54 > 0:57:59replacing the smell of perspiration with the sweet scent of aspiration?
0:58:16 > 0:58:20Subtitles by Subtext for Red Bee Media Ltd - 2011
0:58:21 > 0:58:23Email subtitling@bbc.co.uk