0:00:03 > 0:00:05As a cook and writer,
0:00:05 > 0:00:07I've long been intrigued by
0:00:07 > 0:00:12the flavours and fragrances of Middle Eastern cooking.
0:00:12 > 0:00:15One of the oldest and most influential cuisines in the world.
0:00:16 > 0:00:18Now I want to find out more.
0:00:20 > 0:00:23You know, there really is only one true way
0:00:23 > 0:00:25to get to know a region's food.
0:00:25 > 0:00:27And that's to go there,
0:00:27 > 0:00:31to eat the food amongst the people who cook it and eat it every day.
0:00:31 > 0:00:34That way, it's seasoned with a sense of place,
0:00:34 > 0:00:36the landscape, the culture,
0:00:36 > 0:00:39and the traditions.
0:00:39 > 0:00:40That's incredible.
0:00:40 > 0:00:42So join me on my journey...
0:00:42 > 0:00:44Can I have a look in your cupboard?
0:00:44 > 0:00:47..to discover ingredients and recipes
0:00:47 > 0:00:49that define three countries with
0:00:49 > 0:00:52truly exciting food stories.
0:00:52 > 0:00:54Cheese and roses, it shouldn't work!
0:00:54 > 0:00:57Places considered to be the key pillars of Middle Eastern cuisine.
0:00:59 > 0:01:02My adventure takes me across northern Iran
0:01:02 > 0:01:06to taste Persian dishes with a rich heritage,
0:01:06 > 0:01:10to Lebanon with its Arab-influenced flavours of the Levant,
0:01:10 > 0:01:15and to Turkey, where the recipes, born of a diverse landscape,
0:01:15 > 0:01:17have travelled the world.
0:01:17 > 0:01:20Did the date pattern. Should have done the walnut pattern.
0:01:20 > 0:01:23My appetite for new flavours takes me through
0:01:23 > 0:01:25ancient and beguiling lands,
0:01:25 > 0:01:28but more importantly, into people's homes.
0:01:28 > 0:01:31I absolutely loved it and I can't thank you enough.
0:01:31 > 0:01:33This is my chance to learn new techniques
0:01:33 > 0:01:35and recipes that aren't in books,
0:01:35 > 0:01:39but have been handed down through generations.
0:01:39 > 0:01:40How long does it take you?
0:01:40 > 0:01:42- Five minutes.- Five minutes?
0:01:42 > 0:01:44- Yes.- Yeah, well, I'd better get a move on, then.
0:01:44 > 0:01:47And I'll share the secrets I discover
0:01:47 > 0:01:50by cooking recipes inspired by my journey.
0:01:51 > 0:01:55I've already savoured the fragrant delights of Lebanese recipes
0:01:55 > 0:01:57and the hearty dishes of rural Turkey.
0:02:01 > 0:02:05And my adventure now concludes with Persian food,
0:02:05 > 0:02:07in a country shrouded in mystery...
0:02:08 > 0:02:09..Iran.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21I've landed in the capital, Tehran.
0:02:23 > 0:02:28In the West, this emerging superpower is invariably associated
0:02:28 > 0:02:31with religious fanaticism and hostility.
0:02:35 > 0:02:39But I've come to learn about a completely different side of Iran,
0:02:39 > 0:02:43to find out about a food culture which spans centuries,
0:02:43 > 0:02:47and through cooking and eating with Iranian people,
0:02:47 > 0:02:49gain an insight into everyday life.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00Tehran is home to over eight million inhabitants.
0:03:01 > 0:03:05But even it is dwarfed by the grandeur of the Alborz Mountains
0:03:05 > 0:03:07that cloak its northern fringes.
0:03:10 > 0:03:12It's quite a sight to wake up to.
0:03:13 > 0:03:17When I go away, even when I travel, I tend to go to the same places
0:03:17 > 0:03:22every year. But it always feels so safe because I know it well.
0:03:22 > 0:03:23I know where I'm going.
0:03:24 > 0:03:27And this time I really don't.
0:03:27 > 0:03:32Iran is vast - seven times larger than the UK -
0:03:32 > 0:03:34and home to 80 million people.
0:03:35 > 0:03:38My journey begins here in the sprawling capital.
0:03:39 > 0:03:42I'll travel through the Alborz Mountains in search of pomegranate
0:03:42 > 0:03:47orchards, then further north to the fabled shores of the Caspian Sea,
0:03:47 > 0:03:52before heading east to fields of red gold for the annual saffron harvest.
0:03:56 > 0:03:59But first thing's first - breakfast.
0:03:59 > 0:04:04I'm off to meet Meisam. He's going to be my guide throughout Iran.
0:04:04 > 0:04:07And although English is widely spoken here,
0:04:07 > 0:04:10my Farsi is nothing to write home about.
0:04:10 > 0:04:13- Hello.- Hello.- Hi, Nigel.- Meisam. - Meisam.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15- Nigel. Nice to meet you.- How are you?
0:04:15 > 0:04:17Very nice to meet you. Very nice to see you here.
0:04:17 > 0:04:19Very, very nice to be here.
0:04:20 > 0:04:22Breakfast starts with bread.
0:04:24 > 0:04:27And the amount eaten here is among the highest in the world.
0:04:27 > 0:04:30Six times the global average.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35Meisam is taking me to the southern,
0:04:35 > 0:04:36more working class part of Tehran,
0:04:36 > 0:04:39to a specialist local bakery.
0:04:49 > 0:04:52Small neighbourhood bakeries like this
0:04:52 > 0:04:54are a common sight around Tehran,
0:04:54 > 0:04:57and this one has just one product.
0:04:57 > 0:04:59It's called sangak.
0:04:59 > 0:05:01- Sangak.- Sang means stone.
0:05:01 > 0:05:03Sangak means a small stone,
0:05:03 > 0:05:06so the oven is full of small pebbles of stone.
0:05:08 > 0:05:11Sangak is a wholewheat flatbread
0:05:11 > 0:05:14made with a soft, yeasty dough,
0:05:14 > 0:05:17which has been thinly stretched and baked over hot pebbles.
0:05:17 > 0:05:21Watching this guy's hands just forming the shape of the loaf,
0:05:21 > 0:05:23spreading the dough out.
0:05:23 > 0:05:27- Yes.- And then he's putting the marks in with his fingertips.
0:05:27 > 0:05:28Exactly.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35So, inside the oven, that's all pebbles.
0:05:35 > 0:05:37Yes.
0:05:37 > 0:05:39But the bread is baked directly onto them.
0:05:39 > 0:05:41Directly, yes.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45Folklore has it that, centuries ago,
0:05:45 > 0:05:49Persian foot soldiers carried small stones in their bags and, after they
0:05:49 > 0:05:52set up camp, used them in makeshift ovens.
0:05:56 > 0:05:58It's not unknown to pick out a stray pebble
0:05:58 > 0:05:59from the bread as it's served.
0:06:01 > 0:06:03I've got to do this.
0:06:04 > 0:06:06Yes, I would like to do that.
0:06:06 > 0:06:08- Yes.- Can't resist.
0:06:08 > 0:06:10- You can't resist.- No.
0:06:11 > 0:06:14There's no shortcut or machine for real sangak.
0:06:14 > 0:06:16It has to be handmade,
0:06:16 > 0:06:21making the crisp outside and the soft, warm centre timeless.
0:06:21 > 0:06:22No wonder it's so popular.
0:06:24 > 0:06:26Makes me quite happy, actually.
0:06:29 > 0:06:32Delicious as it is, sangak isn't the only thing
0:06:32 > 0:06:34eaten here for breakfast.
0:06:35 > 0:06:39It's a good partner to kebabs, and for mopping up the juices of a dish
0:06:39 > 0:06:44which has satisfied the Iranian people for over 4,000 years.
0:06:46 > 0:06:50Oh, my word!
0:06:50 > 0:06:52- Sheep, yeah? A sheep's head?- Yes.
0:06:53 > 0:06:54It's called kalleh pacheh.
0:06:54 > 0:06:55Kalleh means head.
0:06:55 > 0:06:57Pacheh means leg.
0:06:57 > 0:07:00This is favourite to many of us.
0:07:00 > 0:07:04Kalleh pacheh is a full Iranian breakfast.
0:07:04 > 0:07:08It's a hearty broth, made with a sheep's head and hooves,
0:07:08 > 0:07:12simmered with onions, garlic, cinnamon, turmeric and bay leaves.
0:07:12 > 0:07:15It's central heating for the soul.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19It's not edible. The eyeball itself is not edible.
0:07:19 > 0:07:22Those comforting words, first thing in the morning,
0:07:22 > 0:07:23"The eye isn't edible."
0:07:26 > 0:07:28Just about everything else is, though.
0:07:29 > 0:07:34Mashed brain and fat goes into the juice, which is simmered overnight
0:07:34 > 0:07:39so that the broth is meatily rich in flavour, and almost sticky with the
0:07:39 > 0:07:40goodness from the bones.
0:07:42 > 0:07:44- This is a cheek.- The cheek.
0:07:50 > 0:07:55It's delicious. It's much softer and more gentle
0:07:55 > 0:07:57than I thought it would be. When I walked in and I saw, you know,
0:07:57 > 0:08:02nose to tail eating to the extreme, I thought,
0:08:02 > 0:08:05"The flavours are going to be really quite strong,"
0:08:05 > 0:08:07and that thing of boiling lamb,
0:08:07 > 0:08:09it's not to everybody's taste.
0:08:09 > 0:08:11But this...
0:08:11 > 0:08:12This is heavenly.
0:08:13 > 0:08:15So, little bits of brain.
0:08:15 > 0:08:17Yes.
0:08:17 > 0:08:19It feels silky. It really is.
0:08:19 > 0:08:21Yes.
0:08:21 > 0:08:23It is fatty, but...
0:08:25 > 0:08:26It's good fat.
0:08:27 > 0:08:29- It feels good. - It feels really good.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32It slides down.
0:08:32 > 0:08:34- Exactly.- There's nothing shocking about it.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44The fact that dishes here have survived
0:08:44 > 0:08:47not just a few generations, but for thousands of years,
0:08:47 > 0:08:51is testament to how important family and tradition are
0:08:51 > 0:08:53to everyday Iranian life.
0:08:55 > 0:08:57After the somewhat austere comfort of kalleh pacheh,
0:08:57 > 0:09:00Meisam is keen to show me there's room
0:09:00 > 0:09:01for a little indulgence here too.
0:09:04 > 0:09:06Ice cream.
0:09:06 > 0:09:09- Ice cream.- They have huge...
0:09:09 > 0:09:11Huge ice creams.
0:09:11 > 0:09:15It says metres and kilometres of ice creams.
0:09:15 > 0:09:17Ice cream by the metre.
0:09:17 > 0:09:18- Yes.- And the kilometre.
0:09:18 > 0:09:20- Yes, exactly.- They talk my language.
0:09:20 > 0:09:22Yes, exactly.
0:09:26 > 0:09:28Did you say black mulberry?
0:09:28 > 0:09:31- And cantaloupe.- Black mulberry and cantaloupe.- Yes.
0:09:38 > 0:09:40Oh, look at that!
0:09:45 > 0:09:47I think he needs to stop.
0:09:49 > 0:09:50Here comes the next part.
0:09:56 > 0:09:58Like a Tehran twister.
0:09:58 > 0:10:00That is amazing.
0:10:00 > 0:10:01It's like a work of art.
0:10:02 > 0:10:04And for the record, it was delicious.
0:10:12 > 0:10:16Central Tehran is the most historic part of the city.
0:10:17 > 0:10:20The beautiful 16th century Golestan Palace
0:10:20 > 0:10:23was once the seat of power in Tehran.
0:10:29 > 0:10:32And from this hub, a market culture has grown
0:10:32 > 0:10:34and evolved over hundreds of years
0:10:34 > 0:10:38to become one of the most incredible markets in the world.
0:10:38 > 0:10:39The Grand Bazaar.
0:10:41 > 0:10:45This is, and always has been, the commercial heartbeat of the city.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50With its many corridors reaching more than six miles in length,
0:10:50 > 0:10:52this is the largest market in Iran.
0:10:53 > 0:10:58Although family meals eaten at home are most celebrated here.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01I'm quickly swept up with the crowds of the busy market,
0:11:01 > 0:11:04following the aromas of the very best places
0:11:04 > 0:11:06to eat Iranian street food.
0:11:06 > 0:11:08It's got to be good.
0:11:08 > 0:11:11Because there's such a scrum.
0:11:11 > 0:11:15The hottest lunch ticket in town is this stall,
0:11:15 > 0:11:19selling Iran's most famous soup, asheh reshteh.
0:11:19 > 0:11:21So, the lady on the corner,
0:11:21 > 0:11:23she's taking everybody's money and giving them a ticket.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26And as Meisam battles the crowds, I make a new friend.
0:11:41 > 0:11:45Thank you. I do, yes, you're right.
0:11:45 > 0:11:47- Nigel. Nigel.- Nigel, yes.
0:11:47 > 0:11:49- Thank you for watching.- You are welcome.
0:11:49 > 0:11:53Meisam eventually emerges.
0:11:53 > 0:11:55Ah! You got it!
0:11:55 > 0:11:57Well done! Well done.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00- See how difficult it was.- Yeah, that's...
0:12:00 > 0:12:04That's some queue.
0:12:04 > 0:12:06Look at this!
0:12:06 > 0:12:08Oh, my word.
0:12:08 > 0:12:09Oh, please.
0:12:11 > 0:12:14This thick soup filled with noodles,
0:12:14 > 0:12:19pulses and beans, celebrates Iran's international ancestry.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22A result of its position on ancient trade routes.
0:12:23 > 0:12:26Some people say that noodle comes from Japan.
0:12:26 > 0:12:28Some others say that because it looks like pasta,
0:12:28 > 0:12:30it comes from Italy.
0:12:30 > 0:12:33But the fact that matters is that it's originated
0:12:33 > 0:12:36from another region in the world.
0:12:36 > 0:12:40So we actually modified it and localised it for our own taste.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44By adding that sourness, the smoothness of the yoghurt...
0:12:44 > 0:12:45Exactly.
0:12:46 > 0:12:48- And the beans.- And the beans.
0:12:53 > 0:12:55Mm!
0:12:55 > 0:12:56It's gorgeous,
0:12:56 > 0:12:58in every sense of the word.
0:13:02 > 0:13:05Asheh reshteh is the perfect combination
0:13:05 > 0:13:09of warming dairy with a hint of sourness that Iranians love.
0:13:13 > 0:13:15Roughly chop two onions.
0:13:16 > 0:13:19And sweat them in olive oil until golden.
0:13:20 > 0:13:23Add chopped garlic and turmeric.
0:13:24 > 0:13:30After a few minutes, mix in lentils, chickpeas and haricot beans.
0:13:32 > 0:13:33Pour in stock.
0:13:34 > 0:13:39And then simmer for half an hour, before adding reshteh noodles.
0:13:39 > 0:13:40They're like linguine.
0:13:45 > 0:13:49Squeeze and chop wilted spinach with handfuls of parsley,
0:13:49 > 0:13:51coriander and mint.
0:13:52 > 0:13:56Fold into the soup and top with sour cream,
0:13:56 > 0:14:00then finish with golden caramelised onions.
0:14:00 > 0:14:02A warm and nourishing lunch.
0:14:08 > 0:14:11A new day dawns, time to head for the hills.
0:14:13 > 0:14:18With petrol costing as little as 20p a litre, it seems we are not alone.
0:14:20 > 0:14:23Iran has officially the world's most dangerous roads,
0:14:23 > 0:14:26with 20 times more accidents than the average.
0:14:27 > 0:14:30Meisam shares his thoughts on the psyche
0:14:30 > 0:14:32of the infamous Iranian driver.
0:14:33 > 0:14:37They become impolite, really impolite when they are driving.
0:14:37 > 0:14:40For example, using this flashing light
0:14:40 > 0:14:43when you're changing your lanes is not still the culture here.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46Because I have been to Europe before,
0:14:46 > 0:14:48and I like the way they drive there.
0:14:48 > 0:14:51- I always do that.- We politely indicate.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54- "This is our intention."- Yes.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03I'm travelling to the northern province of Gilan,
0:15:03 > 0:15:06near the remote village of Anbu.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09It looks a hostile landscape of barren,
0:15:09 > 0:15:15dusty hills but hidden in the valleys is a lush, green oasis.
0:15:30 > 0:15:33You know, there's some days you just don't know what to expect.
0:15:33 > 0:15:38And then suddenly, this secret green space - very verdant, very lush,
0:15:38 > 0:15:40with these flashes of crimson and red,
0:15:40 > 0:15:42and it's a pomegranate orchard.
0:15:48 > 0:15:50This is Alireza.
0:15:50 > 0:15:53His family have owned this pomegranate orchard for generations.
0:15:55 > 0:15:57Pomegranates are native to Iran,
0:15:57 > 0:16:00one of the world's biggest producers of the fruit.
0:16:00 > 0:16:03And growing nearly a million tonnes every year.
0:16:05 > 0:16:10It's often referred to as the Fruit of Paradise - and with good reason.
0:16:10 > 0:16:12You want to see a big pomegranate?
0:16:12 > 0:16:15That's the biggest ever!
0:16:15 > 0:16:17We called this bull pomegranate.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19As in beef. I'm not surprised.
0:16:19 > 0:16:22Well, we have a beefsteak tomato.
0:16:22 > 0:16:24Our biggest tomatoes, we call them beefsteaks.
0:16:29 > 0:16:30Oh, look at that!
0:16:33 > 0:16:37It's like there is so much more pomegranate there.
0:16:37 > 0:16:41It's juicier, it's sweeter, but it's also got a kick of sourness as well.
0:16:44 > 0:16:48The harvest season starts in October and runs through to early January.
0:16:50 > 0:16:54Small farms like this pick by hand to avoid damaging the fruits.
0:16:56 > 0:16:58And so many hands are needed.
0:16:58 > 0:17:00Even mine, it seems.
0:17:00 > 0:17:04She can do once for you so that you can learn. Right?
0:17:04 > 0:17:05Go and show me.
0:17:09 > 0:17:10Oh, big one!
0:17:18 > 0:17:20I don't want to miss any.
0:17:22 > 0:17:26I can't believe these branches don't snap.
0:17:26 > 0:17:27Well, I don't want to drop one.
0:17:29 > 0:17:31I don't want to drop one because these are so precious.
0:17:31 > 0:17:34You know, this is somebody's harvest.
0:17:34 > 0:17:35This is somebody's livelihood,
0:17:35 > 0:17:37but also there's more to it than that.
0:17:38 > 0:17:42There's something so incredibly special about these fruits.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45It would feel like a crime if I dropped one.
0:17:46 > 0:17:49And I haven't. I think I've got a new job.
0:17:52 > 0:17:54Yeah.
0:17:54 > 0:17:57Whilst this looks like a scene from yesteryear,
0:17:57 > 0:18:01of a community pooling its resources at harvest time,
0:18:01 > 0:18:05most of Alireza's family and friends travel here,
0:18:05 > 0:18:07putting on traditional costume,
0:18:07 > 0:18:09to get themselves into the harvest spirit.
0:18:21 > 0:18:23You only wear them when you're here.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32So, this is like a sort of celebration,
0:18:32 > 0:18:35it's like a working holiday or a celebration.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51What a lovely thing to do every year,
0:18:51 > 0:18:52to look forward to. Just lovely.
0:18:54 > 0:18:56The perfect fruit are sold at markets.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00Ali gets about 75p per kilo.
0:19:01 > 0:19:04Not every fruit makes the grade.
0:19:04 > 0:19:06But all is not lost.
0:19:06 > 0:19:09So, these are the pomegranates that...
0:19:09 > 0:19:11What? That aren't good enough to be sold whole?
0:19:17 > 0:19:22Pomegranate molasses is used across Middle Eastern cooking, but nowhere
0:19:22 > 0:19:23more so than in Iran.
0:19:26 > 0:19:30The family here make it with a beautiful purity.
0:19:31 > 0:19:35The seeds are washed in water from the stream,
0:19:35 > 0:19:37and then put over an open fire.
0:19:42 > 0:19:47All those complex notes of pomegranate molasses...
0:19:47 > 0:19:51All that sweetness, the caramelised notes, the sourness, in this case,
0:19:51 > 0:19:54it's actually just pomegranates from the orchard
0:19:54 > 0:19:56and some water from the stream.
0:19:58 > 0:20:00Once boiled, the seeds are then pulped.
0:20:03 > 0:20:07The juice is then put back on the fire until it reduces to the thick
0:20:07 > 0:20:11molasses, which can be bottled and refrigerated for months.
0:20:12 > 0:20:16It can be compared to a fruitier version of balsamic vinegar,
0:20:16 > 0:20:22and is great in dressings, glazes and sweet sour stews.
0:20:22 > 0:20:23It tastes like pomegranate and prunes.
0:20:25 > 0:20:27Just a little bit more boiling down.
0:20:27 > 0:20:28And then thoroughly chilled.
0:20:30 > 0:20:31And you've got...
0:20:33 > 0:20:35You've got something that is used all over the place,
0:20:35 > 0:20:37right the way through cooking here.
0:20:37 > 0:20:41It's used in casseroles, it's used on grills, on the kebabs.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43It's got that sweetness.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46And that mellowness. And that little hit of sour.
0:20:46 > 0:20:48Beautiful. Thank you.
0:20:54 > 0:20:59It's just an extraordinary place. I hadn't expected this.
0:20:59 > 0:21:01There's a wonderful atmosphere. It's almost joyful.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04Everybody seems to be happy to be doing what they're doing.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07It's as if I've walked in on somebody's private celebration.
0:21:14 > 0:21:18Having tasted the intensity of pomegranate molasses,
0:21:18 > 0:21:22I'm keen to find out more about how other sour flavours
0:21:22 > 0:21:24define Persian cuisine.
0:21:32 > 0:21:36So far, I've yet to taste what I really came here for.
0:21:36 > 0:21:38Good home cooking.
0:21:39 > 0:21:44Hospitality is a key part of life throughout the Middle East.
0:21:44 > 0:21:48I'm back in Tehran and our taxi driver, Jalal,
0:21:48 > 0:21:53invites me to his home to taste what is possibly Iran's favourite dish.
0:22:09 > 0:22:13Jalal lives in the unassuming suburb of Shahr-e-Rey,
0:22:13 > 0:22:16in the most southerly part of Tehran,
0:22:16 > 0:22:18where the city bumps up against farmland.
0:22:21 > 0:22:24He's arranged to meet with his wife Maryam
0:22:24 > 0:22:28in their local fruit and veg shop.
0:22:32 > 0:22:34- Hi. How are you? - Lovely to meet you.
0:22:34 > 0:22:38Fresh herbs are an essential part of the Iranian diet.
0:22:38 > 0:22:42In a cuisine dominated by a rich stews and hearty soups,
0:22:42 > 0:22:46they are generously used to cut through the complex flavours with
0:22:46 > 0:22:48freshness and vibrancy.
0:22:48 > 0:22:51Coriander. Mint.
0:22:51 > 0:22:53And this is... This is land cress.
0:22:53 > 0:22:54Yes.
0:22:59 > 0:23:02Does it tidy it up as well?
0:23:02 > 0:23:06These herbs will form a punchy salad to serve alongside our main dish.
0:23:07 > 0:23:11You have no idea how much I want this at home.
0:23:18 > 0:23:22Like many Tehranis, Jalal and Maryam rent an apartment.
0:23:25 > 0:23:26This is lovely.
0:23:26 > 0:23:28Is this your family?
0:23:28 > 0:23:31HE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
0:23:31 > 0:23:34That's his daughter, their daughter, and that's their son-in-law.
0:23:36 > 0:23:39That's Mohammed, my son.
0:23:39 > 0:23:44Yeah. My parents never had pictures of me all over the place like that.
0:23:44 > 0:23:48HE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
0:23:48 > 0:23:50Oh, I love it!
0:23:54 > 0:23:56It's old, not a new one, but...
0:23:56 > 0:23:59My kitchen's old. I love old kitchens,
0:23:59 > 0:24:02kitchens that have seen many, many years' cooking.
0:24:03 > 0:24:05Maryam is cooking dizi,
0:24:05 > 0:24:08a warming lamb stew enriched with chickpeas and beans,
0:24:08 > 0:24:11and sharpened with dried lime and herbs.
0:24:13 > 0:24:15Smell that!
0:24:15 > 0:24:18It's a centuries-old dish.
0:24:18 > 0:24:20So this has been cooking a long time, right?
0:24:23 > 0:24:25And how do you start this?
0:24:42 > 0:24:44So the meat's cooked on the bone,
0:24:44 > 0:24:47which is the best way. But also, it's the fat.
0:24:47 > 0:24:50It's these beautiful lumps of fat
0:24:50 > 0:24:52added to the stock.
0:24:52 > 0:24:54That is what is making it so luscious.
0:24:54 > 0:24:55It has to be.
0:25:09 > 0:25:10This is a dried lime.
0:25:10 > 0:25:12I've never cooked with them.
0:25:12 > 0:25:14This is really interesting for me,
0:25:14 > 0:25:18because I've seen these in the shops.
0:25:18 > 0:25:20And I've never bought them,
0:25:20 > 0:25:23because I've never really known what to do with them.
0:25:23 > 0:25:26Just tasting just a tiny bit of this,
0:25:26 > 0:25:28it's this sudden hit of sourness.
0:25:28 > 0:25:31It's so refreshing.
0:25:31 > 0:25:33And I can just imagine having something
0:25:33 > 0:25:37that's very comforting and gentle,
0:25:37 > 0:25:40and then you get this hit of sourness.
0:25:43 > 0:25:45The lime doesn't just add flavour,
0:25:45 > 0:25:50it also helps to cut through the intensity of the fat.
0:25:50 > 0:25:54The dried limes are followed by red and black pepper.
0:25:54 > 0:25:58Cinnamon, cumin and whole boiled potatoes.
0:26:00 > 0:26:0320 minutes later, the dried limes are removed.
0:26:05 > 0:26:07This isn't the dish to rush.
0:26:11 > 0:26:12That's the magic bit.
0:26:13 > 0:26:16Tomato puree adds depth and more colour to the dish.
0:26:19 > 0:26:20What's that?
0:26:25 > 0:26:30Do you know, almost every ingredient you've given to me,
0:26:30 > 0:26:33you've explained what it adds in terms of flavour, but you've also
0:26:33 > 0:26:37explained what it does to the body,
0:26:37 > 0:26:43what it does to me. It's not just about flavour, it's about health.
0:26:44 > 0:26:48Every effort is made to maximise the natural goodness and flavour of the
0:26:48 > 0:26:49core ingredients.
0:26:51 > 0:26:54The fat is mashed up and returned to the pan,
0:26:54 > 0:26:57releasing further fatty flavours into the dish
0:26:57 > 0:27:00to work in harmony with the taste of the sour lime.
0:27:01 > 0:27:06You know what? The magic of this is the comforting, the fattiness,
0:27:06 > 0:27:11that sort of long-cooked homeliness and then,
0:27:11 > 0:27:14this harmony that goes on with this refreshing lime,
0:27:14 > 0:27:16this sudden zing of sourness.
0:27:16 > 0:27:19And that's why it works and that's why it's so special.
0:27:22 > 0:27:25And finally, the meat and potatoes are removed
0:27:25 > 0:27:29and mashed and served on a side plate.
0:27:29 > 0:27:31Thank you.
0:27:33 > 0:27:37The herbs from the market become a fresh-tasting side salad,
0:27:37 > 0:27:40accompanied by a yoghurt dip and bread.
0:27:42 > 0:27:45The broth is presented in a separate bowl,
0:27:45 > 0:27:48making dizi a two-course dish,
0:27:48 > 0:27:52something many Iranians call two happinesses.
0:27:52 > 0:27:55It's the broth that really gets me.
0:27:56 > 0:27:59It's got this gentle...
0:27:59 > 0:28:02This gentle note of sort of sharp and sourness coming through it
0:28:02 > 0:28:06from these limes. It's kind of everything I want food to be,
0:28:06 > 0:28:10to come into a house where I learn not just a new recipe but how to use
0:28:10 > 0:28:14ingredients that genuinely, genuinely are new to me.
0:28:17 > 0:28:18Did I like it?
0:28:20 > 0:28:22Seriously, I loved it.
0:28:22 > 0:28:25I absolutely loved it and I can't thank you enough.
0:28:28 > 0:28:33The classic Persian savoury and sour combination has inspired me to make
0:28:33 > 0:28:35this stuffed aubergine dish.
0:28:39 > 0:28:41Halve two aubergines
0:28:41 > 0:28:42and score the flesh.
0:28:43 > 0:28:46Place on a baking tray,
0:28:46 > 0:28:48and then douse with olive oil.
0:28:48 > 0:28:50A little sprinkle of salt.
0:28:51 > 0:28:56Then add six garlic cloves and bake for an hour.
0:28:59 > 0:29:03Mash the roasted garlic and mix with the flesh of the aubergines.
0:29:04 > 0:29:07Trickle in a little pomegranate molasses,
0:29:07 > 0:29:10and crumble over some feta cheese.
0:29:14 > 0:29:18Pomegranate seeds and mint leaves add flavour and a burst of colour.
0:29:19 > 0:29:22It's a savoury and sour sensation.
0:29:23 > 0:29:25And absolutely delicious.
0:29:31 > 0:29:36The next leg of my journey takes me 360 kilometres north of Tehran
0:29:36 > 0:29:38towards the Caspian Sea.
0:29:40 > 0:29:43It's a very different climate this side of the Alborz.
0:29:43 > 0:29:47Coming from somewhere that was actually quite barren and dusty...
0:29:47 > 0:29:49- Yes.- ..and then we're driving to here,
0:29:49 > 0:29:52and immediately these avenues of trees.
0:29:52 > 0:29:54- Yes.- This lush green.
0:29:54 > 0:29:57But it almost feels slightly like I've entered a different country.
0:29:57 > 0:29:59Yes, exactly.
0:29:59 > 0:30:03The northern parts of Iran near the Caspian are like Europe.
0:30:05 > 0:30:09Wherever you're driving, you see all the lands are green,
0:30:09 > 0:30:10there are lots of trees.
0:30:12 > 0:30:14Lots of rain means fertile land,
0:30:14 > 0:30:17which makes it ideal for growing rice,
0:30:17 > 0:30:18fruit and vegetables.
0:30:21 > 0:30:25The bazaar in Rasht, the biggest city on the Caspian coast,
0:30:25 > 0:30:28showcases just how much produce is grown here.
0:30:28 > 0:30:30You know, I love these places.
0:30:32 > 0:30:34It's just the best bit about shopping,
0:30:34 > 0:30:36is a market you've never been to before.
0:30:38 > 0:30:41It's not just the sights and the sounds.
0:30:41 > 0:30:42It's the smells, as well.
0:30:46 > 0:30:49Normally, barberry is something I find dried.
0:30:49 > 0:30:50A tiny little sour berry.
0:30:50 > 0:30:53I've never seen fresh ones before.
0:30:53 > 0:30:55This is it. How beautiful is that?
0:30:55 > 0:30:57Ah, merci.
0:30:57 > 0:30:59Thank you. I think this is going to be really sour.
0:31:01 > 0:31:03Oh, it's lovely.
0:31:04 > 0:31:06It tastes like a redcurrant.
0:31:06 > 0:31:07That would put zing into anything,
0:31:07 > 0:31:09sweet or savoury.
0:31:09 > 0:31:10Salam.
0:31:12 > 0:31:17I want to track down one ingredient that this region is famous for.
0:31:18 > 0:31:21But I'm easily distracted.
0:31:21 > 0:31:26I'm irresistibly drawn to other countries' cookware,
0:31:26 > 0:31:27what they use in their kitchen.
0:31:28 > 0:31:31Sometimes I think in a past life I've been a magpie.
0:31:32 > 0:31:34Kind of drawn to all these shiny things.
0:31:36 > 0:31:37So, this is the copper shop.
0:31:37 > 0:31:39Hi. Hello, hi.
0:31:42 > 0:31:46You know, there are some pans that you just know
0:31:46 > 0:31:48are going to be really useful.
0:31:48 > 0:31:49That's one of them.
0:31:53 > 0:31:57OK. So, definitely these.
0:31:59 > 0:32:01Do I buy them by weight?
0:32:04 > 0:32:08And I must wait and see how much this is going to cost. So...
0:32:10 > 0:32:12There's a lot of noughts.
0:32:12 > 0:32:15That looks scary. This is about 35 quid,
0:32:15 > 0:32:19for these beautiful copper pans.
0:32:23 > 0:32:27Amongst the hustle and bustle of the market,
0:32:27 > 0:32:31there are plenty of pit stops for weary shoppers.
0:32:44 > 0:32:48This is the kind of shopping expedition of my dreams.
0:32:48 > 0:32:50It's specialist shopping.
0:32:50 > 0:32:52Everything is laid out with a care,
0:32:52 > 0:32:57and a thought, and almost a love for the thing that they're selling.
0:32:57 > 0:32:59Probably they sold it and their parents sold it.
0:32:59 > 0:33:05And I love the idea that if I'm buying dates or almonds or olives,
0:33:05 > 0:33:08that they're being sold by somebody who knows their story.
0:33:08 > 0:33:11They clearly know the farm. They know where they come from.
0:33:15 > 0:33:18So that's how you buy walnuts.
0:33:18 > 0:33:19Mountains of walnuts!
0:33:22 > 0:33:27But what I'm really looking for is the Caspian's most famous fish.
0:33:27 > 0:33:30The beluga sturgeon, prized for its roe or caviar,
0:33:30 > 0:33:32is nowhere to be seen.
0:33:37 > 0:33:41Curiously, I'm directed away from the market
0:33:41 > 0:33:44towards a local convenience store.
0:33:44 > 0:33:46Biscuits. Tinned peas.
0:33:47 > 0:33:48Spaghetti.
0:33:51 > 0:33:53This is what I've come for.
0:33:56 > 0:34:04This isn't quite where I expected to find this beluga.
0:34:04 > 0:34:07You know, 90% of the world's caviar used to come from
0:34:07 > 0:34:09this area, from the Caspian.
0:34:09 > 0:34:13And it's odd to think that at the beginning of the last century,
0:34:13 > 0:34:18it was actually just stuck on the bar in American hotels.
0:34:18 > 0:34:20It was salty, so it made you drink more,
0:34:20 > 0:34:22like peanuts or pork scratchings.
0:34:23 > 0:34:25And then, of course, it went through its period of
0:34:25 > 0:34:29being very expensive and sold in very luxurious restaurants
0:34:29 > 0:34:30for enormous amounts of money.
0:34:31 > 0:34:36This isn't the wild caviar which is now impossible to find,
0:34:36 > 0:34:38yet it's still incredibly expensive.
0:34:38 > 0:34:42This is 100 dollars.
0:34:42 > 0:34:43The black pearls of caviar
0:34:43 > 0:34:47are one of the most decadent foods on the planet,
0:34:47 > 0:34:51and were enjoyed in abundance here during the Caspian Sea's heyday
0:34:51 > 0:34:53as a playground for the rich and famous.
0:35:00 > 0:35:05But the revolution in 1979 changed the face of these shores.
0:35:08 > 0:35:11As the country turned from a pro-Western monarchy
0:35:11 > 0:35:14to an Islamic Republic, the party was over.
0:35:25 > 0:35:28That actually reminds me of those wet, out-of-season holidays
0:35:28 > 0:35:34at home in Britain when we used to sit in the car, scarves on,
0:35:34 > 0:35:36windows rolled up, eating fish and chips.
0:35:37 > 0:35:39The partygoers have gone.
0:35:39 > 0:35:42And sadly, most of the sturgeon, too.
0:35:42 > 0:35:44They are now critically endangered.
0:35:45 > 0:35:47But I've come all this way,
0:35:47 > 0:35:49and I want to know what locals fish for now.
0:35:51 > 0:35:56Fisherman Azim has offered to take me out to his fishing grounds.
0:35:58 > 0:36:01Azim and his fellow fishermen live and work
0:36:01 > 0:36:04from his hut, four months a year,
0:36:04 > 0:36:08eking out a living from the few migrating fish
0:36:08 > 0:36:10they're now allowed to catch.
0:36:10 > 0:36:12Oh! Salam.
0:36:14 > 0:36:18This is so toasty in here.
0:36:18 > 0:36:19Such a cool trip.
0:36:21 > 0:36:25Oh, yes. Merci, thank you so much.
0:36:27 > 0:36:28Nigel!
0:36:28 > 0:36:32Azim's landed a catch of pike, bream and dace,
0:36:32 > 0:36:35fish that they're permitted to catch at this time of year.
0:36:36 > 0:36:41He's going to show me how the locals prepare and cook dace and its roe.
0:36:41 > 0:36:43I would do that with a fish filleting knife.
0:36:43 > 0:36:45This guy's doing it with his hands,
0:36:45 > 0:36:47and he's making a better job of it than I do
0:36:47 > 0:36:50with an ultra-sharp professional knife.
0:36:54 > 0:36:58This is the roe. And when I was a kid, I grew up in the Midlands,
0:36:58 > 0:37:03and I would go off to the fish and chip shop and I'd get cod and chips.
0:37:03 > 0:37:08But my dad always loved roe, made into little cakes, breadcrumbs.
0:37:10 > 0:37:11That's it. That's the roe.
0:37:14 > 0:37:15Caviar of sorts.
0:37:24 > 0:37:26I don't eat it partly because there are
0:37:26 > 0:37:29environmental questions about caviar.
0:37:29 > 0:37:31And I'm just wondering, what's happening here?
0:37:43 > 0:37:46Azim and his friends have been campaigning against
0:37:46 > 0:37:47the pollution and overfishing
0:37:47 > 0:37:50that has decimated the sturgeon population.
0:37:50 > 0:37:54They hope tighter regulation will change its fortunes.
0:38:08 > 0:38:10I hope so. I hope so.
0:38:13 > 0:38:15Azim fries the fish in oil.
0:38:17 > 0:38:19Wow. OK.
0:38:22 > 0:38:25It doesn't come any simpler.
0:38:25 > 0:38:26Fish filleted and fried.
0:38:32 > 0:38:34A little bit of the fish right on the outside.
0:38:34 > 0:38:37They're incredibly crisp and they're melting.
0:38:39 > 0:38:41Utterly, utterly delicious.
0:38:42 > 0:38:45Life is not complicated here.
0:38:45 > 0:38:47I couldn't be made to feel more welcome.
0:38:47 > 0:38:51I can't wait to taste the roe and see how it's cooked.
0:38:51 > 0:38:55So this is the roe and just some fresh garlic leaves.
0:38:58 > 0:39:01Actually quite mild. Not overly garlicky.
0:39:05 > 0:39:06This smells so good.
0:39:08 > 0:39:11So it's just a fish roe and the fresh garlic tops.
0:39:12 > 0:39:14And egg white, just beaten up.
0:39:17 > 0:39:21But you know, this makes me happy on all sorts of levels,
0:39:21 > 0:39:23because this is the food of my childhood.
0:39:31 > 0:39:33Merci. Thank you.
0:39:33 > 0:39:36That is so, so crisp.
0:39:39 > 0:39:42Ah! Just look at that.
0:39:48 > 0:39:51It's fish roe, just fried in a pan.
0:39:51 > 0:39:54And it's utterly, utterly delicious.
0:39:56 > 0:39:59I'm starting to feel quite at home here in the rain.
0:40:00 > 0:40:02It could be the heat from the stove,
0:40:02 > 0:40:05or perhaps it's the warmth of my welcome.
0:40:05 > 0:40:08One of the things I did know before I came here was about the
0:40:08 > 0:40:12legendary hospitality of the Iranians.
0:40:12 > 0:40:14And here's the proof.
0:40:14 > 0:40:15Delicious proof.
0:40:17 > 0:40:19Right here in the lagoon.
0:40:27 > 0:40:29Before heading back to Tehran,
0:40:29 > 0:40:33I'm travelling further east to Torbat-e Heydarieh,
0:40:33 > 0:40:35towards the Afghan border,
0:40:35 > 0:40:37to witness something which, for me,
0:40:37 > 0:40:40must be one of the wonders of the culinary world.
0:40:50 > 0:40:51- It's heavy.- It's OK.
0:40:55 > 0:40:57Thank you.
0:40:58 > 0:40:59OK.
0:41:01 > 0:41:03There's a TV. And there's snacks.
0:41:06 > 0:41:08I'm liking this.
0:41:09 > 0:41:11I wonder how my bed works.
0:41:15 > 0:41:17Ah! There's a handle.
0:41:24 > 0:41:25Yep, I've got it.
0:41:27 > 0:41:28I've got my bed.
0:41:32 > 0:41:34Hello.
0:41:41 > 0:41:42I've got selfies, too.
0:41:51 > 0:41:54I feel I'm about seven and I'm staying at a mate's house.
0:41:55 > 0:41:57I feel like I'm a kid again.
0:41:59 > 0:42:02I can't wait to snuggle down in this.
0:42:21 > 0:42:24I've come to witness the harvesting of an ingredient that I think,
0:42:24 > 0:42:28more than any other, characterises Persian cooking.
0:42:28 > 0:42:29And that's saffron.
0:42:31 > 0:42:34It's the red gold that runs all the way through the cuisine of this part
0:42:34 > 0:42:39of the world. It's used in rice dishes, it's used in seafood soups.
0:42:39 > 0:42:42You find it in all sorts of places.
0:42:42 > 0:42:45But it's also even used as a dye.
0:42:45 > 0:42:47In old carpets, you find it threaded into the weave.
0:42:52 > 0:42:58At about £4,000 a kilo, it's the world's most treasured spice,
0:42:58 > 0:43:01and the production process is incredibly labour-intensive.
0:43:03 > 0:43:06In a scene that has barely changed in 3,000 years,
0:43:06 > 0:43:10workers rise at dawn to gently pluck crocus flowers
0:43:10 > 0:43:13and remove their golden stamens.
0:43:14 > 0:43:17This is the prized saffron.
0:43:19 > 0:43:23Lending its golden hue and sweetness to savoury dishes,
0:43:23 > 0:43:25deserts and sweetmeats alike.
0:43:25 > 0:43:29Its colour and flavour is best appreciated
0:43:29 > 0:43:32when steeped in warm milk or water.
0:43:32 > 0:43:35You know, I had expected an arid landscape.
0:43:35 > 0:43:39I certainly thought there would be fields of violet purple.
0:43:39 > 0:43:44But what surprises me is this very delicate fragrance.
0:43:44 > 0:43:46It's just on the breeze.
0:43:46 > 0:43:48It's sweet and it's almost like honey.
0:43:51 > 0:43:56Hello. Bahman Ali Habibzadeh is the owner of these fields.
0:43:56 > 0:43:59It's a precise and delicate harvest.
0:44:15 > 0:44:17So, when I'm shopping for saffron,
0:44:17 > 0:44:21then I should be looking for really long stamens attached to each other?
0:44:29 > 0:44:30Wow.
0:44:32 > 0:44:33Oh, my word.
0:44:36 > 0:44:38It's intoxicating.
0:44:38 > 0:44:43It's extraordinary that something so delicate can smell so intense when
0:44:43 > 0:44:48it's in this quantity. That's my pension, that is.
0:44:51 > 0:44:54I've never seen such a quantity of saffron in my entire life.
0:44:57 > 0:45:01Saffron's true value is the flavour and hue it brings to a dish.
0:45:02 > 0:45:06It may be expensive, but the impact is priceless
0:45:06 > 0:45:10in a saffron and cardamom creme caramel.
0:45:11 > 0:45:14Gently warm 500 millimetres of milk.
0:45:20 > 0:45:24Grind the seeds of a dozen cardamom pods and add to the pan.
0:45:28 > 0:45:30Infuse a generous pinch of saffron
0:45:30 > 0:45:33into a couple of spoonfuls of the warm milk.
0:45:35 > 0:45:39Next, make a syrup by heating 100 grams of caster sugar
0:45:39 > 0:45:41and 100 millilitres of water.
0:45:41 > 0:45:43Don't be tempted to stir.
0:45:44 > 0:45:49As it changes to a golden caramel, pour into four ramekins.
0:45:49 > 0:45:52Beat two eggs and the yolks of four more,
0:45:52 > 0:45:55with 80 grams of golden caster sugar,
0:45:55 > 0:45:59before adding the cooled cardamom and saffron-infused milk.
0:46:00 > 0:46:04Strain the mixture and pour into the bowls.
0:46:04 > 0:46:09Add hot water to a deep tray and bake the caramels for 40 minutes.
0:46:09 > 0:46:13Then cool for around an hour until just set.
0:46:13 > 0:46:16The creme caramels will have a delicate wobble,
0:46:16 > 0:46:19and the syrup will trickle down the sides.
0:46:20 > 0:46:22A calming end to any meal.
0:46:35 > 0:46:38My journey in Iran is coming to a close, and I'm back in Tehran.
0:46:40 > 0:46:44I've seen something of how people live in the working class suburbs
0:46:44 > 0:46:45of the south of the city,
0:46:45 > 0:46:47and now I'm in the affluent north.
0:46:50 > 0:46:52I'm keen to find out how the other half live,
0:46:52 > 0:46:55and how they eat here. So I'm off to the Palladium Mall.
0:46:58 > 0:47:01This upmarket shopper's paradise captures
0:47:01 > 0:47:04some of the aspirations of the Iranian middle classes.
0:47:05 > 0:47:08With the easing of sanctions, foreign brands
0:47:08 > 0:47:10have become easier to access.
0:47:11 > 0:47:14And whilst many Iranians do not live like this,
0:47:14 > 0:47:17the modern globalised world looks like it's here to stay.
0:47:19 > 0:47:22Quality Street. Mars.
0:47:23 > 0:47:25Cadbury's Roses.
0:47:25 > 0:47:26Twix. Werther's.
0:47:26 > 0:47:27Werther's!
0:47:31 > 0:47:34You see, not even an Iranian supermarket can escape
0:47:34 > 0:47:36the sad little ready meal.
0:47:38 > 0:47:39This fesenjoon is for one.
0:47:41 > 0:47:44There's a large range of fake pork products made from beef,
0:47:44 > 0:47:46lamb and chicken.
0:47:46 > 0:47:50In a country where pork products are literally banned...
0:47:52 > 0:47:55..mixed jambon. Why use the word jambon, why?
0:47:56 > 0:47:58Why call it jambon?
0:47:58 > 0:48:00But it's so odd that you make a product look
0:48:00 > 0:48:03like something that actually you can't eat.
0:48:05 > 0:48:08One of the few places with anything unfamiliar
0:48:08 > 0:48:09here is the dairy section.
0:48:10 > 0:48:12Garlic-flavoured yoghurt.
0:48:12 > 0:48:15Herb yoghurt, strained yoghurt, dill yoghurt.
0:48:15 > 0:48:16Aubergine yoghurt.
0:48:21 > 0:48:24Some of the world's biggest brands bring fashion,
0:48:24 > 0:48:27jewellery and must-have gadgets to Tehran's wealthiest.
0:48:30 > 0:48:33But part and parcel of this lifestyle
0:48:33 > 0:48:35is the arrival of fast food.
0:48:35 > 0:48:39There are now 20,000 fast food outlets in Iran.
0:48:39 > 0:48:42And I wonder whether young people are being seduced
0:48:42 > 0:48:44by these newer temptations.
0:48:48 > 0:48:51How do I switch it off? How do I switch it off?
0:48:51 > 0:48:52It's vibrating.
0:48:54 > 0:48:55OK.
0:48:57 > 0:48:58Sorry. Thank you.
0:48:58 > 0:49:01Why are my vibrator things going off? Lovely.
0:49:01 > 0:49:04Thank you. Merci.
0:49:04 > 0:49:07I'm glad to get that out of my hand, to be honest.
0:49:07 > 0:49:08Sending me all a quiver.
0:49:11 > 0:49:15- Sorry, guys.- Oh, you got sushi.
0:49:15 > 0:49:16- Yeah.- Wow.
0:49:16 > 0:49:20I've arranged to meet a group of students to see if their traditional
0:49:20 > 0:49:22tastes are changing.
0:49:22 > 0:49:24We're all football fans.
0:49:24 > 0:49:25He's a real Chelsea fan.
0:49:25 > 0:49:27I'm a real Manchester United fan.
0:49:27 > 0:49:30Arsenal. He's an Arsenal fan.
0:49:30 > 0:49:32Thank you.
0:49:33 > 0:49:36So what have you got? We've got fish and chips.
0:49:36 > 0:49:38Chicken and chips.
0:49:39 > 0:49:40You've got... That's penne.
0:49:40 > 0:49:43Yes. Makes it here.
0:49:43 > 0:49:46It's a Mexican food.
0:49:46 > 0:49:50You actually prefer Iranian home cooking or do you prefer this?
0:50:00 > 0:50:04Thinking of all of the food here,
0:50:04 > 0:50:08the Italian food, the American food,
0:50:08 > 0:50:13Mexican food. I mean, if you had to pick one cuisine in the world,
0:50:13 > 0:50:15one food, what would it be?
0:50:17 > 0:50:18Iranian, definitely.
0:50:20 > 0:50:22Iranian.
0:50:22 > 0:50:23Iranian.
0:50:24 > 0:50:27Modern shopping malls and fast food outlets
0:50:27 > 0:50:31may be the future, but they're a long way from the dishes
0:50:31 > 0:50:35of the home kitchen that truly reflect Iranian character.
0:50:36 > 0:50:39There just aren't many restaurants that cater for the growing middle
0:50:39 > 0:50:41classes here.
0:50:41 > 0:50:43They still want that taste of home,
0:50:43 > 0:50:45but don't have the time
0:50:45 > 0:50:46these popular dishes require.
0:50:49 > 0:50:52One couple who have recognised this
0:50:52 > 0:50:55gap in the market are Marene and Arvand Dashtaray.
0:50:58 > 0:51:01They've set up a restaurant that celebrates
0:51:01 > 0:51:04Iranian home cooking and historic dishes.
0:51:08 > 0:51:10Most of the restaurants are serving kebabs,
0:51:10 > 0:51:14and Persian cuisine and Persian food is not about kebabs at all.
0:51:14 > 0:51:18You know, it's about food that you'll experience inside the homes
0:51:18 > 0:51:20which the mums are used to cook.
0:51:20 > 0:51:23This is not something you can take from Iranians.
0:51:23 > 0:51:26If their wife doesn't make it for them, they will go to the mall.
0:51:26 > 0:51:29And if their mum doesn't make it, they will go to the mother-in-law.
0:51:29 > 0:51:33Or they will come to our restaurant or somewhere to find the food.
0:51:33 > 0:51:37Because this generation grow up with this food.
0:51:38 > 0:51:41I love the commitment to tradition here.
0:51:42 > 0:51:44In a country with no legal alcohol,
0:51:44 > 0:51:47soft drinks are elevated to new levels.
0:51:47 > 0:51:51These syrup cordials infused with chia and saffron,
0:51:51 > 0:51:57or cucumber and rose water, are classic Iranian sharbats.
0:51:57 > 0:51:59Look at these colours and combination.
0:51:59 > 0:52:02- It's luminous.- Yep. If you look at it, you get cool.
0:52:02 > 0:52:04And also there is different types.
0:52:04 > 0:52:06Like, that one is also... This is with the seeds.
0:52:06 > 0:52:10And also when you do that, it gets more beautiful,
0:52:10 > 0:52:13- you know?- It's glowing.- Right, it's glowing.
0:52:13 > 0:52:15- Absolutely glowing.- Exactly.
0:52:15 > 0:52:20But what's really special about this place is their commitment to
0:52:20 > 0:52:22reinvigorating Iranian home cooking
0:52:22 > 0:52:26extends to unearthing old recipes that have disappeared from use.
0:52:29 > 0:52:32Arvand and his head chef Maman Hurain
0:52:32 > 0:52:35offer me a cookery lesson at his home.
0:52:36 > 0:52:42On the menu, a forgotten dish from the 16th century called mutanjan.
0:52:43 > 0:52:46For what was supposedly once a favourite
0:52:46 > 0:52:48of the great king, Shah Abbas,
0:52:48 > 0:52:51it begins in remarkably familiar fashion -
0:52:51 > 0:52:53frying garlic and onions...
0:52:55 > 0:52:57- I'm almost crying.- I am crying.
0:52:57 > 0:53:00..before browning the cubed veal.
0:53:02 > 0:53:06- Very nice.- And adding spices, garlic powder,
0:53:06 > 0:53:09turmeric, curry powder, and black pepper.
0:53:09 > 0:53:14It gives a very nice flavour and smell.
0:53:14 > 0:53:15Black pepper.
0:53:15 > 0:53:17Black pepper. It just smells so good.
0:53:17 > 0:53:20Yes, smells very good.
0:53:20 > 0:53:23Once the meat is golden brown, we add water.
0:53:23 > 0:53:26And then it's a matter of that most important
0:53:26 > 0:53:29of Persian ingredients, time.
0:53:30 > 0:53:32Four hours, to be precise.
0:53:32 > 0:53:35So we're going to put the lid on.
0:53:36 > 0:53:38Is this an unusual thing,
0:53:38 > 0:53:42having a woman running a big restaurant kitchen in Iran?
0:53:52 > 0:53:54From my point of view, they should be ashamed,
0:53:54 > 0:53:56because what they are trying to do,
0:53:56 > 0:54:00they are trying to copy what the women are doing inside homes.
0:54:00 > 0:54:03They're not happy that the chef in a restaurant
0:54:03 > 0:54:05is organising and leading a kitchen.
0:54:05 > 0:54:07They just feel threatened.
0:54:07 > 0:54:08Yeah, exactly.
0:54:10 > 0:54:12Now she's adding the tomato juice.
0:54:20 > 0:54:24Buffalo yoghurt is a signature element of mutanjan.
0:54:24 > 0:54:28And the way it's mixed with the sauce is another top Persian tip.
0:54:30 > 0:54:32So, little by little, yes.
0:54:40 > 0:54:41Oh!
0:54:42 > 0:54:44This is where I've been going wrong.
0:54:44 > 0:54:48For years, I've been adding the yoghurt to the stew,
0:54:48 > 0:54:51and then wondering why it goes grainy and curdles.
0:54:51 > 0:54:54I should have been doing it the other way round.
0:54:56 > 0:54:57Thank you.
0:54:58 > 0:55:01Saffron steeped in water gives a stunning colour.
0:55:03 > 0:55:06Oh, look at that, it's like the sun shining.
0:55:07 > 0:55:08Oh!
0:55:11 > 0:55:14It's that incredible gold.
0:55:14 > 0:55:17Caramelised onions add a wonderful sweetness
0:55:17 > 0:55:20that will complement the deep savoury flavours
0:55:20 > 0:55:21of the slow-cooked veal.
0:55:23 > 0:55:25Oh, you can see how soft it is.
0:55:28 > 0:55:31The saffron yoghurt mix is spooned over the top,
0:55:31 > 0:55:34but it isn't quite the finale of the dish.
0:55:34 > 0:55:37This is pistachios.
0:55:37 > 0:55:39- Yes.- Almonds.
0:55:39 > 0:55:41This is completely new to me.
0:55:41 > 0:55:42This is something I've...
0:55:44 > 0:55:48You know, no idea at all that I was going to have this.
0:55:48 > 0:55:50Am I right in thinking that your restaurant
0:55:50 > 0:55:53is the only place that you can get this?
0:55:53 > 0:55:55I cannot say totally sure.
0:55:55 > 0:55:57But I haven't seen it anywhere else.
0:55:57 > 0:56:01This might mean that I'm the only Englishman,
0:56:01 > 0:56:03possibly, to have helped make that.
0:56:03 > 0:56:05- Definitely.- Possibly.
0:56:08 > 0:56:11Absolutely luscious.
0:56:11 > 0:56:15- Pure Persia, is it not?- Yeah.
0:56:16 > 0:56:18You wouldn't get those colours in
0:56:18 > 0:56:20any other cuisine like that together.
0:56:20 > 0:56:21Bon appetit. Try.
0:56:28 > 0:56:31There's this softness,
0:56:31 > 0:56:33the tenderness of meat.
0:56:33 > 0:56:36And then you get the crunch of the pistachios
0:56:36 > 0:56:38and the almonds and the barberries.
0:56:38 > 0:56:42It's so rare that I eat something for the first time.
0:56:42 > 0:56:44I've never eaten this before.
0:56:44 > 0:56:47I didn't even know it existed before today.
0:56:50 > 0:56:51Isn't this fab?
0:57:00 > 0:57:06I came to Iran wanting to see a country that I'd never seen before,
0:57:06 > 0:57:08and every door has been opened to me.
0:57:08 > 0:57:11And there is layer after layer of dishes
0:57:11 > 0:57:14that I genuinely didn't know about,
0:57:14 > 0:57:15food I'd never dreamt of.
0:57:15 > 0:57:19Very fragrant food, gentle flavours.
0:57:19 > 0:57:23It is true comfort food in the best sense of the word,
0:57:23 > 0:57:26that makes you feel good.
0:57:26 > 0:57:28I wouldn't have missed this for the world.
0:57:33 > 0:57:37On my journey through the Middle East, I've enjoyed some of the most
0:57:37 > 0:57:40ancient and revered cuisines in the world.
0:57:40 > 0:57:43I've been inspired by the colours,
0:57:43 > 0:57:45fragrances and flavours
0:57:45 > 0:57:48that encapsulate the diversity of the people who live here.
0:57:49 > 0:57:51I've relished the slow-cooked
0:57:51 > 0:57:55traditional flavours of Iranian food,
0:57:55 > 0:57:58the light and vibrant sharing plates of Lebanon,
0:57:58 > 0:58:03and recipes shaped by the fruits of the Turkish landscape.
0:58:05 > 0:58:10But my overwhelming memory is not of a particular dish or ingredient.
0:58:10 > 0:58:16What holds this place together is this unfettered welcome,
0:58:16 > 0:58:19this hospitality, this generosity,
0:58:19 > 0:58:23but also the amount of languages, the culture.
0:58:23 > 0:58:27I had absolutely no idea of this place.