0:00:03 > 0:00:07Manchester. Britain's fastest-growing city.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11Two world-class football teams and world-class industry.
0:00:11 > 0:00:15But one thing it hasn't got, world-class food.
0:00:15 > 0:00:19When I come home for my supper I sit down to a plate of cabbage and ribs.
0:00:19 > 0:00:22Something I can handle.
0:00:22 > 0:00:23Smell that lamb.
0:00:23 > 0:00:25In the past, big-named chefs
0:00:25 > 0:00:27like Raymond Blanc and Marco Pierre White
0:00:27 > 0:00:30have tried, and failed, to bring top-end restaurants to the city.
0:00:30 > 0:00:33Manchester doesn't have a Michelin-starred restaurant.
0:00:33 > 0:00:34That's outrageous.
0:00:34 > 0:00:38Now, two of Britain's greatest chefs have arrived
0:00:38 > 0:00:41to try and convert Manchester to fine dining.
0:00:44 > 0:00:46It's not hot enough.
0:00:46 > 0:00:49Aiden Byrne, the youngest chef to win a Michelin star,
0:00:49 > 0:00:53is gambling over three million on his theatrical new restaurant.
0:00:53 > 0:00:56Seriously, all I asked for was some hot food.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59It was a disaster, and it was mainly down to you and him.
0:00:59 > 0:01:01What stress? Everything's fine and lovely.
0:01:02 > 0:01:06And Simon Rogan, number one chef in the Good Food Guide,
0:01:06 > 0:01:09is trying to turn a profit from a 10-course tasting menu.
0:01:09 > 0:01:12It's down to me. I make all the decisions.
0:01:12 > 0:01:14And I would not have it any other way.
0:01:14 > 0:01:17Is Manchester ready for one, let alone two,
0:01:17 > 0:01:18new luxury restaurants,
0:01:18 > 0:01:22and will either of them win the city's first Michelin star?
0:01:22 > 0:01:25We have got some Cristal in the back that we're chilling down.
0:01:25 > 0:01:30- What if we don't get it? - I hope we get it. I like Cristal.
0:01:43 > 0:01:47- I have eight veal away now.- Yeah.- And two sole.
0:01:54 > 0:01:58At the Midland Hotel, Simon Rogan's restaurant, The French,
0:01:58 > 0:01:59has been open for 12 weeks.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05It's now entering its most testing time.
0:02:05 > 0:02:07After the high-profile opening,
0:02:07 > 0:02:12he needs to consolidate to try to ensure its long-term future.
0:02:12 > 0:02:16- Two six-course.- Yeah.- Tonight we've got the choice of two menus.
0:02:16 > 0:02:21His fixed tasting menus costing up to £79 are getting high scores
0:02:21 > 0:02:26from some national food critics. But he's not making a profit.
0:02:26 > 0:02:30It doesn't matter how many 9.5s out of 10s,
0:02:30 > 0:02:32or five out of fives or 10 out of 10s.
0:02:34 > 0:02:37If you're not making your food costs, then you're losing money.
0:02:37 > 0:02:41So what's the point? We're here to make money.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46Simon has packed the menu with expensive ingredients
0:02:46 > 0:02:48to create an early buzz.
0:02:48 > 0:02:50I was quite conscious of opening in Manchester
0:02:50 > 0:02:52offering people value for money,
0:02:52 > 0:02:56making sure there's plenty of proteins on the menu, and maybe a few
0:02:56 > 0:03:01luxury ingredients to make it seem like a really, really good deal.
0:03:02 > 0:03:04Plus I wanted to fill people up.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08It was very important at the beginning not to have this reputation
0:03:08 > 0:03:09of, "Yeah, it's really nice,
0:03:09 > 0:03:12"but I needed to go to the chip shop afterwards."
0:03:12 > 0:03:14I don't know, maybe I read that wrongly.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18Maybe I did the people of Manchester a disservice.
0:03:18 > 0:03:21Which one is the journalist?
0:03:21 > 0:03:22It may be costing money,
0:03:22 > 0:03:25but Simon has to make sure standards remain high.
0:03:25 > 0:03:30He wants to win a Michelin star for the restaurant to raise its profile.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34What table did you say they were on? Three?
0:03:34 > 0:03:36The bald guy.
0:03:36 > 0:03:39Inspectors are looking at consistency and quality,
0:03:39 > 0:03:41and can visit in secret three or four times
0:03:41 > 0:03:44before the guide is published in September.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47We don't know how many inspections we've had over the last few weeks,
0:03:47 > 0:03:50but we know we definitely had one on Tuesday.
0:03:50 > 0:03:53We're quite confident it was up to standard.
0:03:53 > 0:03:55The best thing is just to try and forget
0:03:55 > 0:03:57that that thing is even going on.
0:03:59 > 0:04:02The last place to hold a Michelin star in Manchester
0:04:02 > 0:04:04was the old French, at this hotel.
0:04:04 > 0:04:06But that was in 1974.
0:04:06 > 0:04:08Two, yeah.
0:04:08 > 0:04:10It's something that we want, it's something that, you know,
0:04:10 > 0:04:13would be very good for our business here.
0:04:13 > 0:04:16It helps to put bums on seats, without a doubt.
0:04:16 > 0:04:18Two hake, 10-course.
0:04:18 > 0:04:20For a young chef,
0:04:20 > 0:04:23winning a Michelin star is an accolade, like playing football
0:04:23 > 0:04:26for your country, and it demands similar levels of hard work.
0:04:26 > 0:04:30- Have you got a cauliflower? - Adam Reid is Simon's head chef.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33You're getting absolutely drilled into the ground because I'm trying
0:04:33 > 0:04:37to run around doing four people's jobs, plus run the veg section.
0:04:37 > 0:04:39And getting shit from the pass at the same time.
0:04:39 > 0:04:42Yeah, it's very hard.
0:04:42 > 0:04:44But you wouldn't be working for somebody like Simon Rogan
0:04:44 > 0:04:46if it wasn't hard work.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51I might get bored of it by the time I'm 40, when Mrs Reid
0:04:51 > 0:04:53has walked out on me and told me to get lost
0:04:53 > 0:04:54because all I do is work,
0:04:54 > 0:04:57and I just want to cook burgers from then on and make loads of money.
0:04:57 > 0:05:02Start serving horse to everybody. It's always an option, isn't it?
0:05:02 > 0:05:06The restaurant needs to turn a profit but can't afford
0:05:06 > 0:05:09to let standards slip, and risk the chances of Michelin success.
0:05:14 > 0:05:15Inside the fake cherry
0:05:15 > 0:05:18you've got the palm sugar and the foie gras mousse,
0:05:18 > 0:05:22- dipped in the liquid nitrogen, set in the cherry jelly.- Cherry jelly.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26And you can use the claw to pick your teeth afterwards.
0:05:26 > 0:05:30Check on, two tasting menu.
0:05:30 > 0:05:32Get ready on eight pigeon, yeah?
0:05:32 > 0:05:36500 yards across town is Simon's rival, Aiden Byrne.
0:05:36 > 0:05:38Come on, guys.
0:05:38 > 0:05:40Scallops, two scallops.
0:05:41 > 0:05:45A regular on cookery programmes like the Great British Menu,
0:05:45 > 0:05:48he's worked in top-end restaurants since the age of 16.
0:05:48 > 0:05:50Like Simon at the French,
0:05:50 > 0:05:53he's offering fixed tasting menus, at £95 a head.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55It's a very, very tight business.
0:05:55 > 0:05:59Especially when you're playing on this, at this level.
0:05:59 > 0:06:01It's almost a £3 million project.
0:06:01 > 0:06:03And we need to be full function everyday
0:06:03 > 0:06:06to be able to sustain that product.
0:06:06 > 0:06:08It's a hard game to be in, but if you get it right,
0:06:08 > 0:06:10there's nothing more enjoyable.
0:06:11 > 0:06:13Aiden's been open for two weeks,
0:06:13 > 0:06:16and like Simon, he's now battling to consolidate.
0:06:16 > 0:06:19He is serving a menu that's theatrical and entertaining
0:06:19 > 0:06:21in a bid to attract the wealthy professionals...
0:06:21 > 0:06:24- Hi guys, you OK?- ..who have moved into the city centre
0:06:24 > 0:06:26over the past ten years.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29When you're charging people the kind of money that we're charging,
0:06:29 > 0:06:30for that product,
0:06:30 > 0:06:33people aren't happy with just a plate of food any more.
0:06:33 > 0:06:35They need to be entertained from start to finish.
0:06:35 > 0:06:38I'm guessing you drink the pea juice.
0:06:38 > 0:06:41That's been one of the key factors for me for Manchester House,
0:06:41 > 0:06:43is entertaining our guests.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46The linguini was one of the nicest things I've eaten in all my life.
0:06:46 > 0:06:48It was just gorgeous.
0:06:48 > 0:06:52We just eat out just like any other punter, but this is another level.
0:06:52 > 0:06:55It's wonderful. It's art, isn't it? It looks like art. Art on a plate.
0:06:55 > 0:07:01- Art combined with sensual pleasure. - It's gorgeous. Really nice.
0:07:05 > 0:07:08The restaurant has cost over three million.
0:07:08 > 0:07:11The menu has been created to target the Manchester market,
0:07:11 > 0:07:15but, at heart, Aiden's a classically trained chef who learned his skills
0:07:15 > 0:07:19in more traditional restaurants like the Dorchester in London.
0:07:20 > 0:07:25There's nothing more satisfying than using every part of the animal.
0:07:25 > 0:07:29And duck neck pate on the menu... "Well, where do you buy that?"
0:07:29 > 0:07:31We don't, we make it.
0:07:31 > 0:07:35We've actually intentionally created a butchery section,
0:07:35 > 0:07:39a fish section, so we can bring all them skills
0:07:39 > 0:07:42back into the kitchen and bring them all back on,
0:07:42 > 0:07:47so the customers can see that we are butchering our own animals.
0:07:47 > 0:07:54- It means creating obscure dishes. - It's the tongue of the duck.
0:07:54 > 0:07:56Some people say it's the best part of the duck.
0:07:56 > 0:07:59It's the flavour, it's a really ducky flavour. A really intense flavour.
0:07:59 > 0:08:02It's total respect for the produce from start to finish.
0:08:02 > 0:08:07I don't think you can stand there, in an open kitchen such as this,
0:08:07 > 0:08:10and wax lyrical about the quality of the product, when all you
0:08:10 > 0:08:13have done is taken it out of a packet and put it on the plate.
0:08:13 > 0:08:15Chicken jus on for this duck, please.
0:08:15 > 0:08:17Put that duck back in the oven.
0:08:17 > 0:08:21Aiden has opened too late to make this year's Michelin guide,
0:08:21 > 0:08:23so he needs national newspaper critics
0:08:23 > 0:08:28to publicise Manchester House and help fill the restaurant.
0:08:28 > 0:08:31I'm genuinely quite concerned about the north-south thing,
0:08:31 > 0:08:32because it's still very much in play,
0:08:32 > 0:08:35with the majority of the journalists London-based.
0:08:35 > 0:08:37They come out of London,
0:08:37 > 0:08:41they don't go past the Watford Gap, and they see us trying too hard.
0:08:41 > 0:08:45If this restaurant was in central London I would feel quite confident
0:08:45 > 0:08:47that it would get good reviews.
0:08:47 > 0:08:51I'm just nervous about how the whole thing is going to pan out.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01Michelin-style fine dining has never made money
0:09:01 > 0:09:03in Manchester before.
0:09:03 > 0:09:06Big-name chefs like Raymond Blanc and Marco Pierre White
0:09:06 > 0:09:08have opened and closed in the city,
0:09:08 > 0:09:11unable to find a market for fine dining.
0:09:11 > 0:09:14Sustaining a top-end restaurant is very expensive.
0:09:14 > 0:09:18It's labour intensive and requires ingredients that don't come cheap.
0:09:20 > 0:09:25So these are hand-dived king scallops, where divers go down
0:09:25 > 0:09:28and just pick them up, put them in a bag,
0:09:28 > 0:09:29and come back up with them.
0:09:29 > 0:09:31You know, using a dredged scallop,
0:09:31 > 0:09:33the quality is not what it needs to be.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39The downside to that is that they're quite expensive.
0:09:39 > 0:09:42The roe here, which is like the egg sac, if you like,
0:09:42 > 0:09:44we dry that out to make a powder out of,
0:09:44 > 0:09:47which we then dust the meat up with before we sear it.
0:09:49 > 0:09:52The skirt there. You can do things with the skirts as well, you know?
0:09:52 > 0:09:55I've worked at places where we take the skirt,
0:09:55 > 0:09:58and we bleach it and then fry it, and it goes all crispy.
0:10:00 > 0:10:03But the best bit is the muscle.
0:10:03 > 0:10:06This is beyond just fine dining.
0:10:06 > 0:10:08This is beyond going to a country house hotel and having scallops
0:10:08 > 0:10:11and bacon, scallops and black pudding as a starter, and,
0:10:11 > 0:10:15"Ooh, I got a little bit of soup for my mousse d'oie,"
0:10:15 > 0:10:19or whatever it's called. This is... You come here for an experience.
0:10:22 > 0:10:27Estelle? Hi, it's Mike here. You OK? Just a quick one.
0:10:27 > 0:10:32Something's happening on our table in reception.
0:10:32 > 0:10:33Under the flowers.
0:10:33 > 0:10:35I don't know why.
0:10:35 > 0:10:38Inspired by the new chef's rustic food,
0:10:38 > 0:10:40the hotel florist is now using moss.
0:10:40 > 0:10:43It may become an interesting talking point, but not a talking point
0:10:43 > 0:10:45I particularly want people to have about the hotel.
0:10:45 > 0:10:48"Did you see the moss on the table?" So we need to change that.
0:10:48 > 0:10:49I need to change that.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55Manager Mike Magrane brought Simon Rogan in
0:10:55 > 0:10:57because his old restaurant was losing money
0:10:57 > 0:10:59and his hotel needed a publicity boost.
0:10:59 > 0:11:03The actual exposure that Simon's given us is just unbelievable.
0:11:03 > 0:11:06It's very hard to put a cash figure on that.
0:11:06 > 0:11:09Actually the exposure and the presence
0:11:09 > 0:11:11that the Midland now has in people's minds,
0:11:11 > 0:11:14because of the work that Simon's done, or association, massive.
0:11:14 > 0:11:17Absolutely massive. I can't underestimate that at all.
0:11:17 > 0:11:19Simon's new restaurant may be helping
0:11:19 > 0:11:21to restore the hotel's profile,
0:11:21 > 0:11:24but if it doesn't start making money in the next few months,
0:11:24 > 0:11:28the owners will question the restaurant's long-term future.
0:11:28 > 0:11:30Our eye wasn't on the ball when it comes to cost,
0:11:30 > 0:11:32and there was lots of mistakes made,
0:11:32 > 0:11:36understandably so, because, let's face it, we're in the shit.
0:11:38 > 0:11:44But hopefully all those things will start to pan out now.
0:11:44 > 0:11:47We've got the staff in place, we've got the menu in place.
0:11:47 > 0:11:51Now we can take a look at the finer detail and how much it costs.
0:11:52 > 0:11:54Food needs to cost 25% of final sales.
0:11:55 > 0:11:59At the moment, ingredients are up to 40%.
0:12:00 > 0:12:05- Under 25%, firstly, is that realistic?- Yeah, it is.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08That's shifting 22% of where we are now.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10The cost of sales is about 40%.
0:12:10 > 0:12:13I think most of the damage was done at the beginning.
0:12:13 > 0:12:16It's got worse though. It hasn't got better.
0:12:16 > 0:12:21- We're going to have to shift at 22%. - Hmm.- That's quite a big shift
0:12:21 > 0:12:22from where we are.
0:12:22 > 0:12:26At the end of the day, Simon Rogan can cook great food,
0:12:26 > 0:12:28but if I don't return the figures I won't have a job.
0:12:28 > 0:12:30We may have a Michelin-star restaurant,
0:12:30 > 0:12:32but I can get sacked tomorrow. If I don't get my forecast figure,
0:12:32 > 0:12:34"Well, you haven't made your forecast figure."
0:12:34 > 0:12:36"I've got a Michelin." "And?"
0:12:36 > 0:12:40It was majorly from the last week that a lot of stuff was cut,
0:12:40 > 0:12:43so you should start to see now a big difference.
0:12:43 > 0:12:46The menu costs over £70 a head,
0:12:46 > 0:12:50which means the chefs have £16 to spend on ingredients.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53Simon and Adam have started making savings,
0:12:53 > 0:12:55but they have a long way to go.
0:12:55 > 0:12:56We've cut out all the expensive things
0:12:56 > 0:12:58that were not coming in at price.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01We've taken a whole protein dish out of the menu
0:13:01 > 0:13:03and replaced it with an egg yolk.
0:13:03 > 0:13:05I mean, we've taken the veal off,
0:13:05 > 0:13:09because that was coming in at the wrong price,
0:13:09 > 0:13:12and replaced it with the duck, which we know we are getting the price on.
0:13:12 > 0:13:17So, the 16 quid that we've got for a 10-course menu should be
0:13:17 > 0:13:19well and truly hit, without a doubt.
0:13:19 > 0:13:21The fact of the matter is, I've not been doing my own job
0:13:21 > 0:13:24for the last four weeks. I've been doing three other people's jobs.
0:13:24 > 0:13:26That's why I'm trying to say...
0:13:26 > 0:13:31- It's Adam's job as head chef to deliver quality and profit. - THEY CONTINUE TALKING
0:13:31 > 0:13:34'I'm kind of the middleman that's going to get it from every side.'
0:13:34 > 0:13:36And I accept that.
0:13:36 > 0:13:39I'm going to get it from the hotel if I'm not hitting budget, etc,
0:13:39 > 0:13:41not hitting food costs.
0:13:41 > 0:13:43I'm going to get it from Simon if we're not hitting the quality
0:13:43 > 0:13:47we need to hit. I'm basically going to get it from everywhere.
0:13:47 > 0:13:49..I'm doing a stock and things...
0:13:49 > 0:13:53But cutting costs can't mean sacrificing quality.
0:13:53 > 0:13:57Essentially, if we don't hit the ground running in the first month,
0:13:57 > 0:14:00we're not going to get a Michelin star.
0:14:00 > 0:14:01Hmmm...
0:14:04 > 0:14:06Hey!
0:14:06 > 0:14:10We're going in, you're bouncing, pausing, then coming off.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13We're teaching them to free pour nine different measurements
0:14:13 > 0:14:14with each hand,
0:14:14 > 0:14:17without the use of measures, and obviously the digital scales
0:14:17 > 0:14:20to keep the accuracy as tight as we can get it.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22Practice, practice, practice. It's as simple as that.
0:14:22 > 0:14:25It's just doing it over and over again. Muscle memory will kick in,
0:14:25 > 0:14:28and eventually it will become second nature.
0:14:28 > 0:14:31But for now, a little bit of a challenge for them.
0:14:34 > 0:14:38Aiden's restaurant doesn't have a big hotel to keep it afloat.
0:14:38 > 0:14:42But it's owned by millionaire Tim Bacon, who has 32 bars
0:14:42 > 0:14:44and restaurants in the north-west.
0:14:44 > 0:14:47'You need to make sure that you plan for a difficult birth, if you like.'
0:14:47 > 0:14:50You know more or less within six weeks
0:14:50 > 0:14:53whether or not you've got a problem.
0:14:53 > 0:14:56And if you've got a problem, it can be quite hard work.
0:14:56 > 0:15:01He's hoping bar sales will help pay for the cost of fine dining.
0:15:01 > 0:15:03On these shelves only.
0:15:03 > 0:15:05'You can make money from fine dining, but the question is,
0:15:05 > 0:15:07'how you make money from fine dining.'
0:15:07 > 0:15:10It needs to be a profitable business,
0:15:10 > 0:15:12so the way that we've justified that is by having the lounge
0:15:12 > 0:15:14on the 12th floor,
0:15:14 > 0:15:17which should be a draw, it's a marker we understand,
0:15:17 > 0:15:18and hopefully the lounge will act
0:15:18 > 0:15:20as an insurance policy on the restaurant,
0:15:20 > 0:15:23allowing the restaurant to breathe, grow, and do what it wants to do
0:15:23 > 0:15:26as opposed to, it has to be commercially driven.
0:15:28 > 0:15:32In the restaurant, Tim's creating the city's first drinks flight,
0:15:32 > 0:15:35a different drink to go with each of the ten courses.
0:15:36 > 0:15:40- As soon as the customer sits down... - It gets lit.- This gets lit.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43The flight will start with an alcoholic camomile tea
0:15:43 > 0:15:44brewed at the table.
0:15:46 > 0:15:50Pour the drink out, there goes your drinks, out comes this,
0:15:50 > 0:15:52- in come the appetisers.- Whoa.
0:15:55 > 0:15:58Tim's company specialises in mid-range restaurants,
0:15:58 > 0:16:03aimed at the under 30s. This new opening is a big move upmarket.
0:16:03 > 0:16:05'I started in this industry as a bartender,
0:16:05 > 0:16:07'and I was very bar-centric.'
0:16:07 > 0:16:10When I first started my first operations,
0:16:10 > 0:16:14the food was very much a secondary, Tex Mex-type style of food.
0:16:14 > 0:16:16You get older - I'm now 50 -
0:16:16 > 0:16:19and now is my time to actually slow down a little bit
0:16:19 > 0:16:22and enjoy something that actually is a bit more civilised.
0:16:22 > 0:16:26Tim's right-hand man is chef director John Branagan.
0:16:26 > 0:16:29There's got to be some theatre, there's got to be a story.
0:16:29 > 0:16:32There's got to be a journey. There's got to be some excitement.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35You're sat in here for three to four hours.
0:16:35 > 0:16:37That's a bloody long time.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40In a lot of places, there is little or no theatre.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42There is little or no story or anything.
0:16:42 > 0:16:47And you're eating 12 courses, and it's bloody boring. It's boring.
0:16:47 > 0:16:49After a while, you're like... You lose your interest in food.
0:16:49 > 0:16:54- Right, what's next?- There's got to be a bit of theatre involved in it.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57- How much are we charging for our drinks flight?- 65 quid.
0:16:57 > 0:16:59That's a lot of bloody money, that.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02I want to be merry when I walk out of there after 65 quid.
0:17:02 > 0:17:04I think it's too expensive as well. Nine units.
0:17:04 > 0:17:06Let me think about this rationally. Nine units.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09Customers that take the drinks flight will be looking
0:17:09 > 0:17:11at a bill of £160 a head.
0:17:11 > 0:17:15The question I'm asking actually, is nine units enough? Actually.
0:17:17 > 0:17:21Tim is into entertainment. He's very much a showman.
0:17:21 > 0:17:24Food on a plate isn't enough. Diners want more, you know?
0:17:24 > 0:17:27There's television programmes, there's cookery books,
0:17:27 > 0:17:31all the chefs are theatrical in themselves.
0:17:31 > 0:17:35And putting food on a plate these days just doesn't seem to be enough.
0:17:35 > 0:17:37That's a lovely little drop, that.
0:17:37 > 0:17:40The guy owns about 40 restaurants altogether,
0:17:40 > 0:17:41so he knows what people want.
0:17:44 > 0:17:47Tim is using Aiden's name to help sell the restaurant,
0:17:47 > 0:17:51and wants to use him to create an unforgettable dining experience.
0:17:51 > 0:17:53Seeing Aiden in there, here's a celebrity chef
0:17:53 > 0:17:55who is actually in his own kitchen,
0:17:55 > 0:17:57cooking for you every single time you come in,
0:17:57 > 0:18:01be it lunch on a Tuesday or dinner on a Saturday, and it is his food.
0:18:01 > 0:18:03It's his reputation.
0:18:03 > 0:18:07And all we're doing really is facilitating his talent
0:18:07 > 0:18:08with a space
0:18:08 > 0:18:12and then overlaying the front of house with a style, if you like.
0:18:13 > 0:18:15But it is all about Aiden.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21Aiden's team are working on one drink that's designed to get
0:18:21 > 0:18:24the Manchester market talking, a pill that will be dropped
0:18:24 > 0:18:28into liquid to create a fizzing palate cleanser.
0:18:28 > 0:18:32Dextrose, xylitol,
0:18:32 > 0:18:34bicarbonate of soda, lime oil.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39It's a little cheeky nod, do you know what I mean,
0:18:39 > 0:18:42to the '90s and the Hacienda.
0:18:44 > 0:18:47It's going to go one way or another, really.
0:18:47 > 0:18:48We'll see.
0:18:51 > 0:18:55It's something that's a real jokey, sort of,
0:18:55 > 0:18:58not-take-yourself-too-serious kind of moment.
0:18:58 > 0:19:01It's not quite squeezing them together.
0:19:01 > 0:19:03When we done it through the development,
0:19:03 > 0:19:06it all worked fine and lovely, and we've got onto the unit
0:19:06 > 0:19:10and we're struggling to get it to work and the machine to work.
0:19:10 > 0:19:13Do you reckon it's the moisture in this room? It's quite hot.
0:19:13 > 0:19:15- It is, yep.- And it's making the mix sticky.
0:19:15 > 0:19:17- I don't know. - I'll leave them to it.
0:19:19 > 0:19:22No Michelin-starred chef has succeeded in Manchester.
0:19:22 > 0:19:27Now, two are fighting for the same unproven market.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30Like Aiden, Simon is working for a big company.
0:19:30 > 0:19:33Unlike Aiden, he has complete control over his menu
0:19:33 > 0:19:35and the design of his restaurant.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38- All right, how are you?- Good to see you, mate, how are you going?
0:19:38 > 0:19:39'I like to make my own decisions.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43'I don't like to answer to anyone, really. That's the way I like it.
0:19:43 > 0:19:46'With investment, you're always going to get that.'
0:19:46 > 0:19:49You're always going to get someone poking their nose in,
0:19:49 > 0:19:52and telling you what to do.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55And that's not the way I like it, really.
0:19:55 > 0:20:00So, I make all the decisions, and I would not have it any other way.
0:20:00 > 0:20:03Simon wants to check out the opposition.
0:20:03 > 0:20:07He is visiting with his development chef and his food scientist.
0:20:07 > 0:20:11Simon's the first big chef we've had in here.
0:20:11 > 0:20:13I've never cooked for Simon before, so...
0:20:13 > 0:20:15He's cooked for me loads of times.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19Simon is in a position in the industry where I aspire to be,
0:20:19 > 0:20:23so it's only natural that I feel quite nervous about it.
0:20:24 > 0:20:28Simon may have the greater reputation, but Aiden's team
0:20:28 > 0:20:31have more experience of what Manchester customers want.
0:20:31 > 0:20:35Say the butter's for your brioche and the consomme's for drinking.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40So here I've got a warm smoked bacon and onion brioche.
0:20:40 > 0:20:44Can I suggest that with your bread knife you spread the butter
0:20:44 > 0:20:46onto your brioche, and then you can drink your consomme, OK?
0:20:46 > 0:20:48Lovely, thank you.
0:20:50 > 0:20:52Service, please.
0:20:52 > 0:20:54Got a little meat fruit cherry.
0:20:56 > 0:20:58When I eat, I eat fast.
0:21:07 > 0:21:10Hmmm. Nice.
0:21:10 > 0:21:16It's nice. It's really unusual, really different.
0:21:16 > 0:21:18Yeah.
0:21:18 > 0:21:22- The kitchen's very impressive. I like the kitchen. It's really good.- Yep.
0:21:23 > 0:21:28Very open. Very open.
0:21:28 > 0:21:30Both chefs are classically trained,
0:21:30 > 0:21:33but while Simon is transferring to Manchester the rustic style
0:21:33 > 0:21:36that's won him awards in the Lake District, Aiden believes
0:21:36 > 0:21:40a modern technique-heavy menu is what the market wants.
0:21:40 > 0:21:41Very refreshing.
0:21:41 > 0:21:44So here I've got my poached turbot
0:21:44 > 0:21:47that sits on a bed of fermented sauerkraut and Morteau sausage,
0:21:47 > 0:21:52- and finished off with a red wine Rioja distillation.- Oh, sauerkraut.
0:21:52 > 0:21:54Fermented sauerkraut. I think that's the difference.
0:21:54 > 0:21:57He seems to be trying hard with pushing as many techniques
0:21:57 > 0:22:01as possible, as many sensations and experiences.
0:22:04 > 0:22:07No, I think it's really, really good.
0:22:07 > 0:22:11Obviously, it's completely different to The French, which is great.
0:22:13 > 0:22:15Aiden is keen to impress.
0:22:17 > 0:22:20He downgraded his previous restaurant to a gastro pub
0:22:20 > 0:22:24because his fine dining menu failed to attract enough customers.
0:22:24 > 0:22:27- What do you think of the place? - Yeah, it's amazing.
0:22:27 > 0:22:30Yeah, really, really nice. Really impressed.
0:22:30 > 0:22:33- It's different, isn't it?- You must be happy.- Very happy with it, yeah.
0:22:33 > 0:22:35The seating is great.
0:22:35 > 0:22:38'I'm certainly not going to say to someone like Simon and Dan,
0:22:38 > 0:22:42'you know, "How was your meal?" And get a load of feedback.
0:22:42 > 0:22:44'You automatically revert to default,'
0:22:44 > 0:22:46what is common knowledge and common practice to you,
0:22:46 > 0:22:49talking about the environment that you work in.
0:22:49 > 0:22:53- How do you find the induction units? - Great. Perfect.
0:22:53 > 0:22:56I don't think I'd ever go back on gas again.
0:22:56 > 0:22:59I mean those particular induction. Obviously we've got induction...
0:23:00 > 0:23:03It looks like it's out of a catalogue for plates!
0:23:04 > 0:23:08Nothing like The French. Couldn't be further away from The French.
0:23:08 > 0:23:13Because there's nothing organic about it.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17It looks very adventurous to be going in, to walk straight in
0:23:17 > 0:23:22and produce it for however many covers, lunch, dinner, every day.
0:23:22 > 0:23:24Could be quite difficult.
0:23:24 > 0:23:29It's more about bells and whistles than being able to actually satisfy.
0:23:33 > 0:23:36Aiden may have been nervous about Simon's visit.
0:23:36 > 0:23:41But tomorrow, Tim has invited in 40 local journalists.
0:23:41 > 0:23:43Their support is essential.
0:23:45 > 0:23:48- See how tomorrow night goes. - See how tomorrow dinner goes.
0:23:48 > 0:23:51And if you feel it's too much for the team as it is at the moment,
0:23:51 > 0:23:53give us a call and I'll come back Saturday.
0:23:53 > 0:23:56Even though Simon's restaurant is still struggling to make any profit,
0:23:56 > 0:24:00he has to leave Adam in charge while he goes abroad on business.
0:24:00 > 0:24:02'Really I would love to have given him another week.'
0:24:02 > 0:24:05We could have a critic in, or an inspector.
0:24:05 > 0:24:09But I cannot be here all the time. I've got a job to do away from here.
0:24:09 > 0:24:13If something goes wrong, it's Adam in charge, ha-ha. You know?
0:24:13 > 0:24:17Which is more pressure, but that's what I'm here for.
0:24:17 > 0:24:20I'm not here to stand behind Simon, let him do it.
0:24:20 > 0:24:24I'm here to do it myself. With his guidance.
0:24:26 > 0:24:29They're going to be all right, they're going to be all right.
0:24:31 > 0:24:34Simon and hotel manager Mike have come to France
0:24:34 > 0:24:36for another restaurant venture.
0:24:38 > 0:24:41There's so many French cars, aren't there?
0:24:41 > 0:24:44They've got to get their sales from somewhere.
0:24:45 > 0:24:48I think we dump bags, then go and find a bar
0:24:48 > 0:24:49and sit in the sun for a bit.
0:24:49 > 0:24:53I always get my biggest inspiration over a cold beer.
0:24:53 > 0:24:56Well actually, it's a gin and tonic, normally, but...
0:24:56 > 0:24:59Before he took on The French, Simon had also agreed to open
0:24:59 > 0:25:02a cheaper brasserie at the hotel.
0:25:02 > 0:25:04- They're in Lyon looking for inspiration.- Bonjour.
0:25:05 > 0:25:09Simon, Mike and the head chef are visiting venues
0:25:09 > 0:25:11owned by legendary chef Paul Bocuse.
0:25:11 > 0:25:15He's managed to keep three Michelin stars at his main restaurant,
0:25:15 > 0:25:18while opening a profitable chain of cheaper brasseries.
0:25:18 > 0:25:22We'll just take this menu back with us.
0:25:22 > 0:25:24The thing that amazes me about it, there's no...
0:25:24 > 0:25:26There's absolutely no flashiness.
0:25:26 > 0:25:32There's not really any massive detail put into interior design.
0:25:32 > 0:25:36Apart from that photo, that's about as detailed as it gets.
0:25:36 > 0:25:41I mean, this is it. This is what you get, you know?
0:25:41 > 0:25:45To hell with interior design, it's about what's on the plate,
0:25:45 > 0:25:47what's on the plate, and brilliant service.
0:25:47 > 0:25:50Manchester isn't... You walk in the restaurants
0:25:50 > 0:25:53they're not that simple, are they? They're all quite design-led.
0:25:53 > 0:25:54They are, yeah.
0:25:54 > 0:25:55There we go.
0:25:55 > 0:25:59Simon's food is very English, but he's French-trained
0:25:59 > 0:26:03and started out working in some of Paris' finest restaurants.
0:26:03 > 0:26:09This is just a bowl of amazingly flavoured,
0:26:09 > 0:26:11well-seasoned aubergines
0:26:11 > 0:26:15with a herb pesto and some peppers and some pine nuts.
0:26:17 > 0:26:18It's amazing.
0:26:18 > 0:26:20They don't have to dress it up here.
0:26:20 > 0:26:25You know, they've got 350 covers in here every service.
0:26:25 > 0:26:28What do they need to dress it up for?
0:26:28 > 0:26:32They do what they do, and they do it really, really well.
0:26:32 > 0:26:33Thank you.
0:26:33 > 0:26:35WAITER SPEAKS IN FRENCH
0:26:35 > 0:26:38Carrots, risotto, asparagus...
0:26:42 > 0:26:44Lovely.
0:26:47 > 0:26:51Didn't realise the Rhone was such a wide river.
0:26:51 > 0:26:53There's lots of people,
0:26:53 > 0:26:55have you seen down there, stripped off sunbathing.
0:26:55 > 0:26:582013 has been Simon's busiest to date.
0:26:58 > 0:27:02He's already got two restaurants and is opening three others.
0:27:02 > 0:27:08I'm at my happiest when I'm able to do what I want business-wise,
0:27:08 > 0:27:10to be able to fund what I want, any ideas
0:27:10 > 0:27:12to implement them straightaway.
0:27:12 > 0:27:14That's what makes me happy.
0:27:14 > 0:27:17When I see my product getting better and better and better,
0:27:17 > 0:27:20that pleases me.
0:27:20 > 0:27:24Not... Not material things, not wealth, personal wealth.
0:27:24 > 0:27:26It's about having a business
0:27:26 > 0:27:30that I can be really, really proud of
0:27:30 > 0:27:37and that stands with other great restaurants in the UK.
0:27:37 > 0:27:39That means more to me than anything.
0:27:40 > 0:27:44But with so many projects, Simon risks overstretching.
0:27:47 > 0:27:50Just got to watch the projects we take on
0:27:50 > 0:27:53and the demands it makes of me.
0:27:53 > 0:27:57You know, I feel like I'm father to about 85 people.
0:27:59 > 0:28:03I come to bloomin' Lyon and now I've got hay fever
0:28:03 > 0:28:08and there's about four trees, which is a pain.
0:28:08 > 0:28:11It must be coming from the hills. Coming from the mountains, blown in.
0:28:14 > 0:28:16I hate pigeons as well. Bloomin' vermin.
0:28:22 > 0:28:23Service, please.
0:28:23 > 0:28:25Adam is working to get costs down
0:28:25 > 0:28:27and has replaced expensive ingredients.
0:28:27 > 0:28:31Everything I buy, times it by four,
0:28:31 > 0:28:33that's how much money I've got to make.
0:28:33 > 0:28:36This is what my job is. What's the point in having a restaurant
0:28:36 > 0:28:38if it doesn't make money? Yeah, you've got to be aware of the amount
0:28:38 > 0:28:41of money you're going to make, but in the same respect
0:28:41 > 0:28:44if you don't make money, you're pretty screwed, aren't you?
0:28:44 > 0:28:47For the main course, veal at £15 a kilo
0:28:47 > 0:28:51has been swapped for duck which costs just five.
0:28:54 > 0:28:59£450 worth of ducks I bought today. I've got to make £1,800 on that.
0:28:59 > 0:29:02We've cut down on a lot of stuff,
0:29:02 > 0:29:05using slightly cheaper cuts and things.
0:29:05 > 0:29:10No less quality, just... To be honest, a lot of it is more work,
0:29:10 > 0:29:13is a lot more labour intensive
0:29:13 > 0:29:15because the cheaper things always are.
0:29:15 > 0:29:18I'm going where I want it and just kind of letting go.
0:29:18 > 0:29:21It's more complicated getting the best from cheaper ingredients.
0:29:21 > 0:29:26The team is inexperienced, and already working 16-hour days.
0:29:26 > 0:29:29You know, we're trying to get all these accolades,
0:29:29 > 0:29:32but there's only so long we can go on like this.
0:29:32 > 0:29:35There's only so long I can go on like this.
0:29:35 > 0:29:37This is the hardest I've ever worked
0:29:37 > 0:29:40and I've worked in starred level for years, you know?
0:29:43 > 0:29:45I've worked hard, you know what I mean?
0:29:45 > 0:29:49I've not blagged my way through life. I've grafted.
0:29:53 > 0:29:56Ooh, that's comfortable. That's worth a star on its own.
0:29:56 > 0:29:59In its own right it's worth a star.
0:29:59 > 0:30:02What is the preset? Is the present thumb to there?
0:30:04 > 0:30:07Manchester House is the most expensive restaurant
0:30:07 > 0:30:10ever opened in the city.
0:30:10 > 0:30:13Why wouldn't you have the water glasses on the tables?
0:30:13 > 0:30:17It will need to make over 4,000 a day just to break even,
0:30:17 > 0:30:19so Tim has invited the Manchester media
0:30:19 > 0:30:23to help publicise his multimillion pound investment.
0:30:23 > 0:30:25Journalists are going to want to look around.
0:30:25 > 0:30:28I want it looking tidy in there, OK?
0:30:28 > 0:30:31Aiden's playing catch-up, so it's a challenge for Aiden, you know?
0:30:31 > 0:30:34It's a difficult position he's in, playing catch-up.
0:30:34 > 0:30:36I think the people that come to Simon's may not be the people
0:30:36 > 0:30:39going to Aiden's. I think it's going to be a different offering,
0:30:39 > 0:30:42and the way he'll go for his awards and his rosettes and his stars
0:30:42 > 0:30:44is going to be different to the way we'll go for them.
0:30:44 > 0:30:47The environment he's going to be in will be very different as well.
0:30:47 > 0:30:49Having Aiden there getting reviews,
0:30:49 > 0:30:53and everyone who mentions Aiden will also mention Simon in the review,
0:30:53 > 0:30:55so Simon and The French will get even more comments.
0:30:55 > 0:30:5840 people will come effectively at the same time at 12.30,
0:30:58 > 0:31:01but obviously there's no drinks or food orders to take.
0:31:01 > 0:31:04I can't believe you're cutting grass at 10 to 12?
0:31:04 > 0:31:07The artificial turf isn't going under foot,
0:31:07 > 0:31:10it's going under Aiden's oyster and beef consomme.
0:31:13 > 0:31:16Today he's showcasing his most complex creations,
0:31:16 > 0:31:18like his prawn cocktail.
0:31:18 > 0:31:22It involves the inside of a balloon being coated with a passion fruit
0:31:22 > 0:31:25reduction, then frozen to make a dome.
0:31:25 > 0:31:26Watch me, OK? Watch me do one.
0:31:26 > 0:31:29- I'm actually just cutting it until...- You can peel it.
0:31:29 > 0:31:32Until it peels itself, kind of thing,
0:31:32 > 0:31:34and starts pulling back.
0:31:34 > 0:31:38You need a pastry cutter. One about that big, look.
0:31:38 > 0:31:41- And I need a blowtorch as well. - Yep.
0:31:41 > 0:31:46Right, let's go, let's go, let's go. Come on.
0:31:46 > 0:31:48Welcome to Manchester House.
0:31:48 > 0:31:51It's something we've been working on for a long period of time now.
0:31:51 > 0:31:53The menu we're having today,
0:31:53 > 0:31:55rather than a traditional tasting menu it's highlights
0:31:55 > 0:31:59from the a la carte menu. OK, so enjoy it, relax, chill,
0:31:59 > 0:32:01and have a good time. OK, thank you very much.
0:32:01 > 0:32:03APPLAUSE
0:32:03 > 0:32:06It's Aiden's food, but Tim's concept.
0:32:06 > 0:32:07Manchester is not a fool.
0:32:07 > 0:32:10People do need to have those stories. They need to be able to walk away
0:32:10 > 0:32:12and discuss it, and if we can give them five or six stories
0:32:12 > 0:32:16to walk away with, they bring their friends back to experience it.
0:32:16 > 0:32:20So here we have the beetroot oyster what's been fed on beetroot juice.
0:32:20 > 0:32:24- OK? So you get that lovely beetroot flavour.- Blimey.
0:32:24 > 0:32:27Nice.
0:32:27 > 0:32:31These are soft, mate, these are soft. No.
0:32:31 > 0:32:33Shit. Do not touch them with your fingers.
0:32:33 > 0:32:38Aiden's never had to make 40 passion fruit domes in one go,
0:32:38 > 0:32:42and today of all days the freezer has broken down.
0:32:42 > 0:32:44- Take this one.- Take it!
0:32:47 > 0:32:50We need to be more organised, Mike. That was a disaster.
0:32:50 > 0:32:52So, what do we do, do we smash this on the top?
0:32:52 > 0:32:55TAPPING Ooh, that was a bit too violent that, see that?
0:32:55 > 0:32:58Sheila, is that hot, is it?
0:33:00 > 0:33:02It's not hot enough!
0:33:02 > 0:33:06A complex menu is hard to deliver during a normal service.
0:33:06 > 0:33:10When 40 people are eating at the same time, it's almost impossible.
0:33:10 > 0:33:13Mushrooms! Give it to me, it's no good there!
0:33:14 > 0:33:15Seriously. Salsify.
0:33:17 > 0:33:20Go, go, go.
0:33:20 > 0:33:23Seriously, all I asked for was hot food.
0:33:23 > 0:33:28His meat board costs £57 and includes steak, salsify,
0:33:28 > 0:33:32clay-baked potato and a horn for gravy.
0:33:32 > 0:33:36Tim's got the horn, yeah? I haven't got the horn, I need a horn.
0:33:36 > 0:33:39I haven't got a horn.
0:33:39 > 0:33:43A horn of plenty! LAUGHTER
0:33:43 > 0:33:46- You're actually sucking on the bone.- Are these edible?- Yes.
0:33:50 > 0:33:52That was shit. That was crap.
0:33:54 > 0:33:58All the food goes out, but not every dish is complete.
0:33:58 > 0:34:02But as far as Tim's concerned, the restaurant has created an impact.
0:34:02 > 0:34:05My main aim today has just been looking at people's faces,
0:34:05 > 0:34:09and they're blown away. It's been amazing.
0:34:09 > 0:34:13Manchester has one daily paper and a very influential food website.
0:34:13 > 0:34:15Aiden knows he must convince them
0:34:15 > 0:34:18that his expensive menu is delivering real quality.
0:34:20 > 0:34:23That was hard. How did that go so wrong on the last main course?
0:34:23 > 0:34:26How? How did that go so wrong?
0:34:26 > 0:34:29- Sorry. I was expecting a call, chef. - What?- Five minutes be ready.
0:34:29 > 0:34:31I didn't realise it was going to be that...
0:34:31 > 0:34:34We'll all in this together, mate, we're all watching what's going on,
0:34:34 > 0:34:37do you know what I mean. That's bullshit.
0:34:37 > 0:34:40We're all watching this together. Everyone is orchestrated.
0:34:40 > 0:34:45All we had to do from this side is serve the meat. Ross, come here.
0:34:45 > 0:34:47I got you to get ready beforehand, right?
0:34:47 > 0:34:50The reason why I got you ready beforehand
0:34:50 > 0:34:53is to get all your meat nice and hot, so we just go dink, dink, dink,
0:34:53 > 0:34:57right? It was a disaster, and it was mainly down to you and him.
0:34:59 > 0:35:02Er, what stress? Everything's fine and lovely.
0:35:02 > 0:35:05'People got a little bit animated, shall we say.'
0:35:05 > 0:35:08- What do you think of it, do you like it?- Yeah, no, I love it.
0:35:08 > 0:35:12Everyone's OK now. People like to blow off a little bit of steam.
0:35:12 > 0:35:15My only advice to you on this one is,
0:35:15 > 0:35:19towards the end of it get them to bring out some nice white bread.
0:35:19 > 0:35:23Get the rest of that in there, cos this jus is the top of the tree.
0:35:23 > 0:35:27Critics are not necessarily the most constructive,
0:35:27 > 0:35:32but they are necessary and therefore we engage with our critics
0:35:32 > 0:35:36and take on board their sensible advice
0:35:36 > 0:35:39and hopefully helping us get a...
0:35:41 > 0:35:47Refining our product. That's what critics mean to me.
0:35:47 > 0:35:49- So you're happy?- Yes.- Good.
0:35:49 > 0:35:54Yeah. Bit emotional before. I started crying!
0:35:54 > 0:35:57I've never had a bad review of a business put one of my restaurants
0:35:57 > 0:36:02out of business. But a good review can expediently increase business.
0:36:05 > 0:36:08The local press can reach the Manchester market,
0:36:08 > 0:36:11but they'll need a series of good national reviews
0:36:11 > 0:36:14if the restaurant is to have a long-term future.
0:36:26 > 0:36:28Ladies, do you like?
0:36:28 > 0:36:31We were just debating.
0:36:31 > 0:36:33Yeah, it's a little bit different.
0:36:33 > 0:36:36Hopefully in the next couple of days, when it blossoms.
0:36:36 > 0:36:38- Do YOU like it?- Um, I like it now.
0:36:38 > 0:36:40I think it'll look better when the crocuses come up,
0:36:40 > 0:36:42cos it's like spring then, isn't it?
0:36:42 > 0:36:45Is that happiness, then? Spring is happiness, isn't it?
0:36:45 > 0:36:49There you go. It's just made someone feel happy, hasn't it? Emotional.
0:36:49 > 0:36:51So it serves its purpose on that thought.
0:36:51 > 0:36:54I just personally don't like the look of it.
0:36:57 > 0:37:00Simon's restaurant has now been open for seven months.
0:37:00 > 0:37:04- Welcome to The French. Have you been before?- No.
0:37:04 > 0:37:07And the good reviews are starting to increase bookings.
0:37:07 > 0:37:10There's now a waiting list for weekend tables.
0:37:13 > 0:37:17You try to get a table Saturday nights. Wow, no chance.
0:37:20 > 0:37:24It's a lot more local now, the people coming in to the restaurant.
0:37:24 > 0:37:27They're local diners, it's not people just shipping up from London.
0:37:27 > 0:37:30So it's local people embracing the food, coming to test the restaurant.
0:37:31 > 0:37:35There's growing interest in the food, but tables remain empty
0:37:35 > 0:37:38because people are failing to show up after booking.
0:37:38 > 0:37:43Last night we had 11 people booked who didn't eat in the restaurant.
0:37:43 > 0:37:44Seven no-shows.
0:37:47 > 0:37:50People who are just far too rude to actually cancel the table.
0:37:50 > 0:37:55If I'm preparing 38 portions of food and 11 of them don't appear
0:37:55 > 0:37:59that's a lot of money. That's £1,500 worth of potential revenue
0:37:59 > 0:38:02from wine and food that I've just lost.
0:38:02 > 0:38:05To try to make a profit, prices have risen.
0:38:05 > 0:38:08A risk in a historically unreceptive market.
0:38:09 > 0:38:13If you go for the ten course, it's £86. Per head.
0:38:13 > 0:38:18Then you want your cheese and biscuits on top of that.
0:38:18 > 0:38:20It's a lot of money.
0:38:20 > 0:38:23I could live for a month on that.
0:38:23 > 0:38:26- Perfect, yeah. Seasoned? - Yes, chef.
0:38:27 > 0:38:31Adam remains under huge pressure, still trying to bring costs down.
0:38:31 > 0:38:33The duck that replaced the veal
0:38:33 > 0:38:36has now been replaced with the even cheaper guinea fowl.
0:38:36 > 0:38:38I've got far better things to do with my life
0:38:38 > 0:38:40than stay here at two o'clock in the morning
0:38:40 > 0:38:45and do a stock take. Like, going home and looking at my missus
0:38:45 > 0:38:47who's asleep in bed.
0:38:47 > 0:38:50Cos yet again I'm home at one o'clock in the morning.
0:38:54 > 0:38:59They know they've had more visits from the Michelin inspectors.
0:38:59 > 0:39:02No matter how bad you think it's going out here,
0:39:02 > 0:39:04you've just got to keep on pushing because out there it looks good.
0:39:14 > 0:39:16The cult of the celebrity chef
0:39:16 > 0:39:19and the product endorsements that follow them
0:39:19 > 0:39:23means the catering industry is awash with award ceremonies.
0:39:23 > 0:39:27Tonight it's the turn of Hotel And Caterer Magazine
0:39:27 > 0:39:30and Simon and Mike have had to travel down to London.
0:39:30 > 0:39:32Both are up for awards.
0:39:32 > 0:39:36I am a bit excited, yeah. Manager Of The Year so...
0:39:36 > 0:39:39I'm actually two tables further forward this year
0:39:39 > 0:39:41than I was two years ago when I was up for it.
0:39:41 > 0:39:44So maybe it's less walk, I don't know. Maybe.
0:39:44 > 0:39:45Maybe it's my year.
0:39:45 > 0:39:49Simon's up for Restaurateur And Chef Of The Year.
0:39:49 > 0:39:52Accolades that can spread The French's reputation
0:39:52 > 0:39:54and draw bookings from across the country.
0:39:54 > 0:39:57I'll be bloomin' PR-ing about Manchester on the back of it.
0:39:57 > 0:39:59Because, you know, Chef Of The Year
0:39:59 > 0:40:01and if it's Restaurant Of The Year, you know where he is?
0:40:01 > 0:40:02He's in bloody Manchester now.
0:40:02 > 0:40:05That's where he is. And that's the guy who's winning
0:40:05 > 0:40:06these awards.
0:40:06 > 0:40:09And who's the best chef around? That guy. And I'll be banging a drum.
0:40:09 > 0:40:12Restaurateur Of The Year, independent.
0:40:12 > 0:40:14The winner is...
0:40:14 > 0:40:16Simon Rogan.
0:40:16 > 0:40:17CHEERING
0:40:22 > 0:40:26- Many congratulations.- Thanks very much.- What an achievement.
0:40:29 > 0:40:31'Still nominated for another one yet,'
0:40:31 > 0:40:34so might have three by the end of the night.
0:40:36 > 0:40:39We move on now to Manager Of The Year.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42Our finalists are Frank Arnold, the Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh,
0:40:42 > 0:40:46Michael Magrane, Midland Hotel, Manchester.
0:40:46 > 0:40:49And Fred Sireix, Galvin at Windows...
0:40:49 > 0:40:51I remember reading someone who got a Catey,
0:40:51 > 0:40:54they said they had 30 job offers and they got a 20% pay rise,
0:40:54 > 0:40:56so that would be very nice, wouldn't it?
0:40:56 > 0:41:01The winner of the Manager Of The Year goes to Fred Sireix.
0:41:08 > 0:41:10Was I gutted? Um...
0:41:12 > 0:41:14Yes. Not gutted, no.
0:41:14 > 0:41:16It was nice to see my name up again.
0:41:16 > 0:41:18Little northern boy fighting by myself.
0:41:18 > 0:41:22Great for Simon. I think they missed out on Mike.
0:41:23 > 0:41:29It's time now for one of our most coveted trophies, the Chef Award.
0:41:29 > 0:41:35Simon's up against Andrew Fairley and Tom Kerridge.
0:41:35 > 0:41:38Our Chef Award winner has been a culinary pioneer
0:41:38 > 0:41:40since he opened his flagship restaurant more than ten years ago.
0:41:40 > 0:41:43Please, will you announce the winner.
0:41:43 > 0:41:46Simon Rogan is the Winner of the Chef Award. Well done.
0:41:55 > 0:41:59Simon is the only person to win two awards at this year's ceremony.
0:42:02 > 0:42:04Cor, that's nice. Yeah.
0:42:06 > 0:42:09Pretty good night on the whole, I think.
0:42:09 > 0:42:10That's good, look at that.
0:42:15 > 0:42:18The awards have been flooding in for The French.
0:42:18 > 0:42:2112th best restaurant in the Good Food Guide,
0:42:21 > 0:42:23three AA rosettes, Decanter Magazine
0:42:23 > 0:42:26and Cheshire Life Restaurant Of The Year.
0:42:26 > 0:42:29North West Good Food Guide Entries, 2014.
0:42:29 > 0:42:31It's Rogan's Year. It's not just working
0:42:31 > 0:42:33in a good restaurant any more,
0:42:33 > 0:42:35it's working in one of the best.
0:42:35 > 0:42:38So you know, what do you do?
0:42:38 > 0:42:43It's good news for everybody. Still have to eat in the canteen
0:42:43 > 0:42:46downstairs. And it still makes me feel sick.
0:42:46 > 0:42:50In a week, the team will find out if they've won a Michelin star,
0:42:50 > 0:42:52the award that can do more than any other
0:42:52 > 0:42:54to ensure the restaurant's future.
0:43:06 > 0:43:11At Manchester House, the early local press publicity is driving bookings.
0:43:11 > 0:43:14Saturday night. So exciting. Yes, very busy.
0:43:14 > 0:43:19Very busy. So we've got 98 people booked tonight,
0:43:19 > 0:43:21we only have a 70-cover restaurant,
0:43:21 > 0:43:23so we're looking at turning the earlier tables.
0:43:23 > 0:43:25Our private dining room didn't sit... Excuse me.
0:43:25 > 0:43:29With an average head spend of £130 per diner,
0:43:29 > 0:43:34they're taking nearly £15,000 in one evening service.
0:43:34 > 0:43:37There's still no national newspaper review,
0:43:37 > 0:43:40but there's been plenty of internet activity.
0:43:40 > 0:43:43Yeah, there's loads of stuff going up about us on the internet.
0:43:43 > 0:43:46People compare it a lot with other restaurants at the moment
0:43:46 > 0:43:47that are in Manchester.
0:43:47 > 0:43:50Maybe The French, cos it's very different.
0:43:50 > 0:43:54There's a few that say this is the best place in Manchester,
0:43:54 > 0:43:56you know, kicks arse of The French.
0:43:56 > 0:43:59People pop on their own photos.
0:43:59 > 0:44:00We've got nine photos on there now.
0:44:00 > 0:44:02A lot has focused on the service style
0:44:02 > 0:44:04and the design of the restaurant.
0:44:04 > 0:44:07One has criticised the way the hostesses are dressed.
0:44:07 > 0:44:11They said that one of the hosts looked like a hooker,
0:44:11 > 0:44:14which wasn't very nice at all.
0:44:19 > 0:44:24Table 36 are journalists for The Independent, guys, yeah?
0:44:26 > 0:44:28It might not be conventional fine dining...
0:44:28 > 0:44:32- Three...sour cherries. - It's a pistachio fritter.
0:44:32 > 0:44:33Pistachio through the middle,
0:44:33 > 0:44:37it's then wrapped in Panko breadcrumbs as well.
0:44:39 > 0:44:41..but the elaborate drinks and spectacular food
0:44:41 > 0:44:43seem to be making the intended impression.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46Cos it is so pretty, it's like sculpture on a plate.
0:44:46 > 0:44:50So beautiful, a combination of prawns, passion fruit,
0:44:50 > 0:44:55and matched with this. It's sensational.
0:44:57 > 0:45:00Everyone who visits has an opinion.
0:45:00 > 0:45:03People at the table with their phones,
0:45:03 > 0:45:05I just think is a little bit rude still.
0:45:05 > 0:45:07There's a lot of people that blog,
0:45:07 > 0:45:10but you've just got to make sure you read the right blogs.
0:45:10 > 0:45:13There's a certain criteria, anyone can say, that's the amazing thing.
0:45:13 > 0:45:15You could be in ripped jeans and a T-shirt
0:45:15 > 0:45:18and you could have the most amazing palate
0:45:18 > 0:45:20and do a most amazing blog, you don't have to be sat there
0:45:20 > 0:45:22in a three piece suit any more.
0:45:22 > 0:45:25The whole game, the whole industry's changed.
0:45:25 > 0:45:29Technology is making and breaking restaurants a lot faster now
0:45:29 > 0:45:33because communication is so much quicker.
0:45:38 > 0:45:41Manchester House is charging £95 for a tasting menu.
0:45:41 > 0:45:46The food needs to be critically acclaimed to justify the price.
0:45:46 > 0:45:50One very influential blogger known as Hungry Hoss,
0:45:50 > 0:45:53has criticised some of Aiden's complex dishes.
0:45:53 > 0:45:57Nemo, did you read Hoss's review? What did you think?
0:45:57 > 0:46:01- I thought it was reasonably fair. - Fair, yeah.
0:46:01 > 0:46:04He didn't like Aiden's pea water distillation.
0:46:04 > 0:46:09Comment on Hungry Hoss's review. It tasted like tinned pea water.
0:46:09 > 0:46:12And the dry ice failed to appear on his oyster dish.
0:46:12 > 0:46:16Hoss's didn't work. A bit sad that one table didn't work,
0:46:16 > 0:46:18but it was a really good review, all in all.
0:46:18 > 0:46:20There was a couple of negative comments
0:46:20 > 0:46:24but stuff that we need to work on, which is absolutely fine.
0:46:24 > 0:46:26The theatrical food has been criticised
0:46:26 > 0:46:27by other respected bloggers.
0:46:27 > 0:46:30Aiden can't afford to risk his credibility
0:46:30 > 0:46:35if the restaurant is to maintain its early success.
0:46:35 > 0:46:37We're changing probably about 70% of the menu.
0:46:42 > 0:46:46There's a lot of dishes on there which I think have gone on there
0:46:46 > 0:46:49for the sake of theatre,
0:46:49 > 0:46:54and I'm taking them off.
0:46:54 > 0:46:57There's a lot of people who have commented on the fact that some of
0:46:57 > 0:46:58the dishes are gimmicky.
0:46:58 > 0:47:01Quite a few comments saying there's not enough depth of flavour
0:47:01 > 0:47:04in some of the dishes, and it's quite a hard thing
0:47:04 > 0:47:07to stomach. There's a lot lying on my head.
0:47:07 > 0:47:10A three million pound project,
0:47:10 > 0:47:13and I want to be really true to myself
0:47:13 > 0:47:17to be able to know that I gave it my all.
0:47:17 > 0:47:20I feel quite uncomfortable about standing over particular dishes.
0:47:20 > 0:47:21You know, is that really me?
0:47:21 > 0:47:24Is that, you know, has that got my heart...
0:47:24 > 0:47:27You know, has that got my name written all over it,
0:47:27 > 0:47:29has it come from deep within me?
0:47:29 > 0:47:33I need to have that confidence, really.
0:47:33 > 0:47:37And if I'm asking myself them questions
0:47:37 > 0:47:41then I need to do something about it.
0:47:41 > 0:47:45Aiden's decided to return to his classical roots.
0:47:46 > 0:47:51His first new dish is hare loin with caramelised chicory.
0:47:51 > 0:47:54There's no dry ice or distillations involved.
0:47:56 > 0:48:00It's one of them dishes that comes from the heart.
0:48:00 > 0:48:04It's time of the year, the flavours, really strong flavours.
0:48:07 > 0:48:10It's the kind of food I've been cooking for a long time
0:48:10 > 0:48:13and it's just making it fit in with Manchester House, really.
0:48:13 > 0:48:16Hopefully the customers will like it.
0:48:16 > 0:48:19There's two older gentlemen. Hare loin,
0:48:19 > 0:48:21it's one of them dishes that an older generation will enjoy
0:48:21 > 0:48:25and one of them dishes you don't see on the menu very often, so...
0:48:25 > 0:48:26If it was on, I'd have it.
0:48:28 > 0:48:30Right, two hare and a snapper away, please.
0:48:30 > 0:48:34The hare goes straight onto the lunch menu and sells out.
0:48:34 > 0:48:36It's proper food, innit?
0:48:36 > 0:48:40It's none of this pretentious chicken breast, and rrrrr.
0:48:40 > 0:48:42I like prepping it, I like eating it.
0:48:42 > 0:48:44Game and things like that are more fun to prep.
0:48:44 > 0:48:46Much more exciting. It looks like you've murdered somebody
0:48:46 > 0:48:48but it's a lot more fun.
0:48:48 > 0:48:50As the chefs learn Aiden's new dishes...
0:48:50 > 0:48:53That's not how we've done it. I don't want you to throw it together.
0:48:53 > 0:48:57..front of house have discovered a major newspaper critic
0:48:57 > 0:48:59has booked a table.
0:48:59 > 0:49:02We think we have a Mr Jay Rayner in at one o'clock with us today,
0:49:02 > 0:49:08- for lunch.- Jay Rayner is the food critic for the Observer Magazine.
0:49:08 > 0:49:10It's kind of inevitable that sooner or later it will happen.
0:49:10 > 0:49:12We know he's in Manchester today.
0:49:12 > 0:49:15Yeah, we've got Jay Rayner in for lunch.
0:49:15 > 0:49:18A good review in the Observer will announce Manchester House's
0:49:18 > 0:49:21fine dining credentials to a nationwide audience,
0:49:21 > 0:49:25and attract bookings from beyond the north-west.
0:49:25 > 0:49:28I am extremely nervous. Just running through the menu,
0:49:28 > 0:49:31what's he going to have, what's he going to have?
0:49:31 > 0:49:33What don't I want him to have, what do I want him to have?
0:49:33 > 0:49:35Get your hat on today, James.
0:49:35 > 0:49:37Let's hope he gets Manchester House.
0:49:37 > 0:49:41I hope he enjoys it, I hope he enjoys the openness of it all.
0:49:41 > 0:49:45This is a perfect opportunity for us to shine, I guess.
0:49:58 > 0:50:01Both restaurants are finally reaching the point
0:50:01 > 0:50:07where they'll be able to tell if they've got a long-term future.
0:50:07 > 0:50:10Aiden has opened too late to be considered for a star this year,
0:50:10 > 0:50:13but staff at The French will find out tomorrow
0:50:13 > 0:50:19if they've been awarded the industry's most coveted prize.
0:50:19 > 0:50:24First, they've got to get rid of one uninvited guest.
0:50:24 > 0:50:30Was it a magpie? Ah, that's why, then. Shiny and bright.
0:50:31 > 0:50:34Good job he wasn't open for lunch, isn't it?
0:50:36 > 0:50:40Most of the young chefs joined The French to work under Simon Rogan.
0:50:40 > 0:50:43The Michelin star was always their goal.
0:50:43 > 0:50:45After you've built the four, build the two.
0:50:45 > 0:50:47These guys, you don't think they're working here
0:50:47 > 0:50:49cos they want to live in Manchester, do you?
0:50:49 > 0:50:51They're here to work with Simon Rogan,
0:50:51 > 0:50:53one of the best chefs around at the moment,
0:50:53 > 0:50:57or one of the most accoladed chefs around at the moment.
0:50:57 > 0:50:59And they want to learn new techniques
0:50:59 > 0:51:01and they want to be at the cutting edge of food.
0:51:01 > 0:51:05It's very creative. What those guys do is incredibly creative.
0:51:05 > 0:51:08People who become chefs at that level, they need to be recognised.
0:51:09 > 0:51:12It's easy for me at the hotel cos I recognise my success
0:51:12 > 0:51:14from a financial perspective.
0:51:14 > 0:51:19Simon is not focused 100% financially, he's not.
0:51:19 > 0:51:22He will ask about the feedback, he'll ask about the reviews,
0:51:22 > 0:51:26he'll ask about what people think about his food and what he's created.
0:51:26 > 0:51:30I'm comfortable being measured financially, it's what makes me tick.
0:51:30 > 0:51:33It's a lot easier to be measured financially.
0:51:37 > 0:51:41Simon is cooking at his restaurant in the Lake District
0:51:41 > 0:51:45while he waits for news about The French.
0:51:48 > 0:51:5020 past ten. Not a sausage.
0:51:50 > 0:51:53The announcement will be made online at seven in the morning,
0:51:53 > 0:51:56but in previous years it's been leaked.
0:51:58 > 0:52:00Doing a good job this year, aren't they?
0:52:08 > 0:52:12In The French, they're also checking their phones for any leaks.
0:52:12 > 0:52:16They've been working 16 hours a day, sometimes seven days a week,
0:52:16 > 0:52:18for eight months to get to this point.
0:52:18 > 0:52:21They don't give these things out like toffee.
0:52:21 > 0:52:23There's a reason they're so sought-after.
0:52:31 > 0:52:33We'll find out when we find out.
0:52:33 > 0:52:36Can't really think about it at the moment.
0:52:37 > 0:52:39- It's the UK one, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:52:42 > 0:52:46Never believe your own hype, that's all I say.
0:52:50 > 0:52:52It doesn't look like it's going to get leaked,
0:52:52 > 0:52:54so you will find out tomorrow at 7am.
0:53:03 > 0:53:06First thing the next day and Simon is about to find out
0:53:06 > 0:53:10if he's joining the likes of Heston Blumenthal and Gordon Ramsay,
0:53:10 > 0:53:13chefs with more than one Michelin starred restaurant to their names.
0:53:14 > 0:53:17Oh, there you go, full list.
0:53:17 > 0:53:20- His PR adviser is the first to know. - MOBILE PHONE
0:53:20 > 0:53:22Hello, Marie.
0:53:24 > 0:53:28Yeah, nothing at all for The French? Bizarre.
0:53:31 > 0:53:33Well, it doesn't look like we've got it.
0:53:35 > 0:53:37Story got one? Oh, no.
0:53:39 > 0:53:41Eric Chavot got a star?
0:53:41 > 0:53:44Social Eating House got a star?
0:53:44 > 0:53:48I'm shocked, shocked, absolutely shocked.
0:53:48 > 0:53:51Despite all the awards and good reviews,
0:53:51 > 0:53:54the mysterious men and women of Michelin have decided
0:53:54 > 0:53:58Manchester is not ready for its first star.
0:53:58 > 0:54:03They obviously aren't as enamoured as everybody else.
0:54:05 > 0:54:07Yeah, very, very disappointing.
0:54:11 > 0:54:12They're going to be gutted.
0:54:12 > 0:54:15You know, it's a real kick in the teeth for Manchester.
0:54:15 > 0:54:17Not just The French.
0:54:21 > 0:54:23Oh, well. Now I've got to go to work
0:54:23 > 0:54:25and scrape everybody up off the floor
0:54:25 > 0:54:28and give them all a big man hug.
0:54:31 > 0:54:34The new guide gave 13 British restaurants
0:54:34 > 0:54:36their first Michelin star.
0:54:36 > 0:54:38Nine of them were in London.
0:54:40 > 0:54:45Michelin never gives feedback to explain its decisions.
0:54:49 > 0:54:54At Manchester House, Jay Rayner's Observer review has been published.
0:54:54 > 0:54:55Where is it?
0:54:57 > 0:55:00"My, aren't we clever?" Oooh!
0:55:00 > 0:55:06Chestnut soup with snails, smoked eel. Frogs' legs.
0:55:06 > 0:55:09Some fantastic comments about the food.
0:55:09 > 0:55:10Oh, he loved the frogs' legs.
0:55:10 > 0:55:13It's one of the best lamb dishes he's ever had.
0:55:13 > 0:55:17And the little kievs, he said they were fantastic.
0:55:17 > 0:55:21As a punter, after reading this review, I would look at that and go,
0:55:21 > 0:55:23"I'm going to go and give that a try."
0:55:23 > 0:55:28Well, it's Aiden's food, it's just me cooking. But I think it's brilliant.
0:55:28 > 0:55:32He likes the food, don't he, but he just doesn't like everything else.
0:55:32 > 0:55:35While the review praises Aiden's new menu,
0:55:35 > 0:55:38it's critical of Tim Bacon's restaurant design,
0:55:38 > 0:55:42describing it as "overworked, self-conscious and full of swagger."
0:55:42 > 0:55:45"I want to concentrate on Aiden Byrne's often brilliant cooking,
0:55:45 > 0:55:48"I want to focus, but almost everything at Manchester House
0:55:48 > 0:55:51"makes it a struggle to do so." That's not very nice, is it?
0:55:51 > 0:55:53That's not nice.
0:55:53 > 0:55:56"It's there in the service conducted by bearded men in waistcoats
0:55:56 > 0:56:00"and jeans who yearn to appear informal but won't.
0:56:00 > 0:56:04"And I mean this in the sweetest way, sod off and leave us alone."
0:56:04 > 0:56:08"The restaurant itself is just too damn Mancunian." Really?
0:56:08 > 0:56:11You don't write a review of a restaurant in Paris
0:56:11 > 0:56:15and say "the restaurant was great but it's just too bloody Parisian."
0:56:15 > 0:56:19Do you know what I mean? It's just... It's insane. It's mad.
0:56:19 > 0:56:20You wouldn't look at that and go
0:56:20 > 0:56:22"Oh, I'm not going there," would you?
0:56:22 > 0:56:27Eh? There's nothing wrong with the restaurant. There's nothing wrong,
0:56:27 > 0:56:30there's nothing wrong with it.
0:56:30 > 0:56:33Our objective since day one is to create a restaurant for Manchester
0:56:33 > 0:56:36and I believe that's what we've done.
0:56:40 > 0:56:43Since the review, bookings have started coming in
0:56:43 > 0:56:44from outside the north-west.
0:56:44 > 0:56:47In the last two months Manchester House has been booked out
0:56:47 > 0:56:49on Friday and Saturdays
0:56:49 > 0:56:52and is now turning over £80,000 a week.
0:56:52 > 0:56:55Tim's approach may not please the London critics,
0:56:55 > 0:56:57but the people of Manchester take a very different view.
0:56:57 > 0:57:00We saw a good spike in sales on the back of that review
0:57:00 > 0:57:02and the reason is, he's very complimentary about the food.
0:57:02 > 0:57:05Oscar Wilde said, "There's only thing worse than being talked about
0:57:05 > 0:57:10"and that's not being talked about." I'm a great believer in that.
0:57:10 > 0:57:14Over at The French, Adam has brought costs down to 27%
0:57:14 > 0:57:17and the restaurant is finally making money.
0:57:17 > 0:57:21Simon's brasserie has also opened up in the next door room.
0:57:21 > 0:57:24I can't deny that having a Michelin would have been an absolute...
0:57:24 > 0:57:26for me, as well, the hotel's stamp.
0:57:26 > 0:57:28"This hotel's got a Michelin, the only one in Manchester."
0:57:28 > 0:57:30I've got a restaurant that's got three rosettes.
0:57:30 > 0:57:33I've got a restaurant that's at number eight
0:57:33 > 0:57:35out of the best new entry in the Good Food Guide.
0:57:35 > 0:57:37I made no money in the old French. I lost money.
0:57:37 > 0:57:39I make money in The French now.
0:57:40 > 0:57:4212 months on,
0:57:42 > 0:57:45both restaurants have at last won the city of Manchester over
0:57:45 > 0:57:48to the world of fine dining.
0:57:48 > 0:57:49Manchester is not a fool.
0:57:49 > 0:57:52One of the things that all these different cities don't like is
0:57:52 > 0:57:54being taken for a ride, and if you come up here
0:57:54 > 0:57:56you need to give it some respect
0:57:56 > 0:57:59and if you do that then there's some nice gains to be made.
0:57:59 > 0:58:01Hey ho, I think we've got something
0:58:01 > 0:58:03that's going to be here for some time.
0:58:03 > 0:58:06We're not just a fine dining restaurant in Manchester,
0:58:06 > 0:58:09we're one of the country's best restaurants now.
0:58:09 > 0:58:12Can Manchester sustain that? Why not?
0:58:12 > 0:58:16They may be in profit, but without the elusive star in Manchester
0:58:16 > 0:58:18there's still unfinished business.
0:58:18 > 0:58:22Even Birmingham's got a starred restaurant. Bloody hell!