Wells

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0:00:03 > 0:00:07You know the old myth, a swan would break your arm, a man's arm,

0:00:07 > 0:00:09with one swipe of its wing?

0:00:09 > 0:00:11Yes.

0:00:11 > 0:00:14Nobody has ever met anybody who's had their arm broken

0:00:14 > 0:00:16by a swan's wing.

0:00:16 > 0:00:20I know a fellow who fell over after he stepped on one!

0:00:24 > 0:00:28It's taken 50 years in broadcasting, but I've finally cracked it.

0:00:28 > 0:00:32A chance to meander around the country, see the sights,

0:00:32 > 0:00:36meet the people and yes, eat and drink.

0:00:36 > 0:00:40Is melted in the mouth A suitable phrase?

0:00:40 > 0:00:43I've hailed a cab with one of London's finest cabbies,

0:00:43 > 0:00:47Mason McQueen, to steer me around Britain's highways and byways.

0:00:47 > 0:00:50I am looking forward to a decent meal. Are you?

0:00:50 > 0:00:52I'm starving. I can't wait.

0:00:52 > 0:00:55Our route has been mapped out by an adventurous gourmand,

0:00:55 > 0:00:59Samuel Chamberlain, in his book 'British Bouquet'.

0:00:59 > 0:01:02Almost 60 years later, we are following in his footsteps...

0:01:02 > 0:01:04I'll do all the work, Tel.

0:01:04 > 0:01:07..to seek out weird and wonderful regional British cuisine

0:01:07 > 0:01:11and discover how our tastes have changed over the years.

0:01:11 > 0:01:12Do it right, son.

0:01:15 > 0:01:17- This one?- And then pinch. - Pinch?- Yes, and twist.

0:01:17 > 0:01:21- It's all about size, Tel. - Size has never mattered to me!

0:01:32 > 0:01:36Wells, the lovely little city in Somerset, beckons us.

0:01:43 > 0:01:48A tiny mediaeval gem with a population of just 11,000 people,

0:01:48 > 0:01:50but who knows how many gastronomic delights

0:01:50 > 0:01:52just waiting to be discovered?

0:01:54 > 0:01:58So we are coming into the smallest city in the country, Mason.

0:01:58 > 0:02:02- It's a city?- Yes. It's a city because it has got a cathedral.- Oh, right.

0:02:02 > 0:02:05And this cathedral, according to our Mr Chamberlain,

0:02:05 > 0:02:07was a bit of a disappointment to him

0:02:07 > 0:02:09because he thought it was a bit stubby.

0:02:09 > 0:02:12He was expecting a spire and he didn't get it.

0:02:15 > 0:02:18Chamberlain may have spotted a couple of shortcomings

0:02:18 > 0:02:21in this magnificent building but he did concede that the facade

0:02:21 > 0:02:24was simply unique in the Gothic world.

0:02:24 > 0:02:26Who am I to argue?

0:02:33 > 0:02:38A little early in the day for sightseeing. Breakfast beckons.

0:02:38 > 0:02:41Rumour has it we'll find a good one next door

0:02:41 > 0:02:43in the 13th century Bishop's Palace.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48- Now this is what you call mediaeval, isn't it?- Yes. Look at this.

0:02:48 > 0:02:52I am getting, this is like your house in south-west France. Is it?

0:02:52 > 0:02:56- Is this like the driveway? - It could be a bit bigger, maybe.

0:02:56 > 0:02:59What with the crenulations and the battlements and all the rest

0:02:59 > 0:03:02where I hurl things down upon the unfortunate natives.

0:03:02 > 0:03:04- Your croissants!- Yes!

0:03:06 > 0:03:10So bypassing the noble buildings of this wonderfully preserved

0:03:10 > 0:03:14mediaeval complex, we make a beeline for the modern cafe,

0:03:14 > 0:03:18named after a famous bishop of Wells who has become a sort of

0:03:18 > 0:03:22patron saint of good food and good company in this city.

0:03:22 > 0:03:24- A cow creamer.- There you are.

0:03:24 > 0:03:26You don't see many of those outside a PG Wodehouse novel!

0:03:29 > 0:03:33So we're privileged to be sharing the bishop's table with you.

0:03:33 > 0:03:37That's right. It is named after a very kindly bishop

0:03:37 > 0:03:40who was here in the late 17th century

0:03:40 > 0:03:42called Bishop Ken, Bishop Thomas Ken.

0:03:42 > 0:03:47They decided to name the cafe after him because he used to, on a Sunday,

0:03:47 > 0:03:52invite 12 of the local poor men to come and share his lunch with him.

0:03:52 > 0:03:56And I think rumour has it they ended up with the 17th century

0:03:56 > 0:03:59equivalent of a doggy bag as well to take home to their families.

0:03:59 > 0:04:04Bishops of course, being Catholic, would be celibate...

0:04:05 > 0:04:08- Well, officially, yes. - Yes, all right.

0:04:08 > 0:04:11We won't go into that. Have some more jam!

0:04:12 > 0:04:16- I think we should drink a toast to the good Bishop Ken.- Yes.

0:04:16 > 0:04:19- Who gave foods to the poor. - To Bishop Ken.

0:04:27 > 0:04:30What do you think of Wells, of the little bit we've seen so far?

0:04:30 > 0:04:33Yes, really nice. Very quaint, very quiet.

0:04:33 > 0:04:36I'm going to keep an eye out for cider

0:04:36 > 0:04:38because, of course, Somerset cider.

0:04:38 > 0:04:40Oh, yes.

0:04:40 > 0:04:44And then cheddar because we are not one million miles from Cheddar Gorge.

0:04:44 > 0:04:47Stand at ease, can't beat a bit of cheese!

0:04:53 > 0:04:58One thing this series has taught me is that if you want to track down the best local produce,

0:04:58 > 0:05:00you head straight to the marketplace,

0:05:00 > 0:05:03which luckily is where I find myself now.

0:05:05 > 0:05:08- Hello.- Look at this. Do you make these yourself?- Yes.

0:05:09 > 0:05:12In 2014, Wells was crowned best market

0:05:12 > 0:05:14in the whole of the south-west.

0:05:14 > 0:05:16Not hard to see why.

0:05:16 > 0:05:19There's butchers, bakers.

0:05:19 > 0:05:23I haven't found a candlestick maker yet but we'll keep searching.

0:05:23 > 0:05:25Are you all right for a bag?

0:05:25 > 0:05:28If it's handmade sausages you are after, Wells doesn't disappoint.

0:05:28 > 0:05:30- Morning to you.- Good morning.

0:05:30 > 0:05:33That's the Six Nations special. Beef and Guinness.

0:05:33 > 0:05:36- I have to have that then. Up Ireland!- That's right.

0:05:36 > 0:05:40- Good man. Where are you from? - County Down.

0:05:40 > 0:05:42See? Northern Irishman. Put it there.

0:05:42 > 0:05:45- Nice to see you.- And yourself.

0:05:49 > 0:05:51I am just taking a chance here

0:05:51 > 0:05:54but I think this might be the cheese counter!

0:05:54 > 0:05:57It is, indeed. This is our traditional farmhouse cheddar cheese.

0:05:57 > 0:06:00So what makes cheddar so special then?

0:06:00 > 0:06:02The milk has got to come from the four counties.

0:06:02 > 0:06:06Either Somerset, Dorset, Devon or Cornwall.

0:06:06 > 0:06:09There's got to be no artificial colours, flavours or preservatives

0:06:09 > 0:06:14added and the cheese has got to have matured for at least nine months.

0:06:14 > 0:06:16- So they don't make it easy for you, do they?!- No.

0:06:16 > 0:06:20- There are a lot of regulations. - There is indeed.- But it's worth it.

0:06:20 > 0:06:24- I will start here.- So that one is matured for about 12 months.

0:06:24 > 0:06:27OK. It's OK, stick with me.

0:06:27 > 0:06:31- And this is the extra tasty. - Extra tasty.

0:06:31 > 0:06:33This has been matured for 18 months.

0:06:33 > 0:06:36- So it will have a stronger flavour. - That's very good.

0:06:36 > 0:06:38Mind you, I'm sure it's all good.

0:06:40 > 0:06:42Tasty Cheddar.

0:06:42 > 0:06:44That's what I'm here for.

0:06:46 > 0:06:49Cheese tasted. Now time to seek out the cider.

0:06:49 > 0:06:52They say that when the Romans first arrived in Britain

0:06:52 > 0:06:56they found the locals happily tiddling away on the stuff.

0:06:56 > 0:06:59And we still boast the highest consumption per capita in the world.

0:07:01 > 0:07:03My very first alcoholic drink was a cider.

0:07:05 > 0:07:08I remember it well. So what kind of apples do you use?

0:07:08 > 0:07:10In this part of the world we tend to get a lot

0:07:10 > 0:07:13of what are known as bittersweet varieties

0:07:13 > 0:07:15which means they've got a lot of tannin in them,

0:07:15 > 0:07:17they've got a low level of acidity

0:07:17 > 0:07:20and they've got quite a lot of sugar so they make a strong cider.

0:07:22 > 0:07:25Neil and Helen make nine different ciders,

0:07:25 > 0:07:28including this sparkling little number.

0:07:29 > 0:07:32This variety here, which is called Special Reserve.

0:07:33 > 0:07:36This is made in the same way that the Normandy

0:07:36 > 0:07:38and the Brittany cider makers operate.

0:07:38 > 0:07:42- You know the way in Normandy. They make the spirit.- Calvados.

0:07:42 > 0:07:44Do you do Calvados?

0:07:44 > 0:07:47I would love to but the licensing over here

0:07:47 > 0:07:50is slightly more complicated than it is in northern France!

0:07:51 > 0:07:54That will be enough. Very little does me, you know.

0:07:54 > 0:07:56I'm not a drinking man!

0:07:58 > 0:08:01- It's very good, isn't it?- That is really lovely.- Yes, special.

0:08:01 > 0:08:03- Worth every penny.- Thank you.

0:08:04 > 0:08:08Wells market and all its bounty have detained me long enough.

0:08:08 > 0:08:11If only I could remember where I left my old mucker, Mason.

0:08:11 > 0:08:14Mason? What are you doing, son?

0:08:15 > 0:08:18Somehow I knew I would find you by the hot pasty stand.

0:08:18 > 0:08:20Have you been drinking?

0:08:20 > 0:08:21Cider?

0:08:21 > 0:08:25- Have you been drinking cider? - I might have had a few.

0:08:27 > 0:08:31A brisk walk along Wells High Street will do us both the power of good.

0:08:31 > 0:08:34Speed us on our way to our next food destination.

0:08:35 > 0:08:39- Hello.- Can I have a photograph with you?- Of course, my friend. Are sure about this?- Yes.

0:08:39 > 0:08:41Are you sure you don't want me to take it, mate?

0:08:46 > 0:08:49- You do look good.- Thank you. You look good too.

0:08:49 > 0:08:53I don't know why people have a problem with selfies. I can't get enough of them myself.

0:08:53 > 0:08:55Nice to meet you.

0:09:02 > 0:09:05- So where are you taking me now? - We are off to the vintage tearoom.

0:09:05 > 0:09:10- Yes, it is very...- Vintage. - Is that the word I'm looking for?

0:09:10 > 0:09:12Pink was the word I was looking for.

0:09:15 > 0:09:18The 1950s and afternoon tea seem to go together

0:09:18 > 0:09:21in the popular imagination.

0:09:21 > 0:09:24The last few years have seen an explosion of these temples

0:09:24 > 0:09:27to tea, cakes and nostalgia right across the country.

0:09:27 > 0:09:30In this one, you can even buy the outfit

0:09:30 > 0:09:32so you can look the part as well.

0:09:32 > 0:09:35You're bringing me to this rather exclusive

0:09:35 > 0:09:37and slightly strange place.

0:09:37 > 0:09:40- This is the vintage shop. - Hello.- Hello.

0:09:40 > 0:09:44- Vanessa?- Yes.- Mason.- Hello. Alison. - Alison, nice to meet you.

0:09:44 > 0:09:47Now, I remember the '50s the first time round.

0:09:47 > 0:09:49My Teddy Boy days are definitely over

0:09:49 > 0:09:52but Mason is a bit more willing to experiment.

0:09:54 > 0:09:57OK, look up. Yes. That is much more in keeping.

0:09:57 > 0:10:02POSH ACCENT: Hello. Excuse me madam while I take this call.

0:10:02 > 0:10:03Hello, 558, Wells.

0:10:05 > 0:10:07I am loving this vintage place.

0:10:07 > 0:10:09That's it.

0:10:09 > 0:10:11IMPERSONATES NORMAN WISDOM: Mr Grimsdale!

0:10:14 > 0:10:19You come here, promising me a cup of tea and a slice of cake

0:10:19 > 0:10:23and you end up with the hats and the Norman Wisdom impersonations.

0:10:25 > 0:10:28I will be brutally frank with you, ladies.

0:10:28 > 0:10:31I am not big on high tea because I think it will ruin my dinner.

0:10:32 > 0:10:36But you see, the reason high tea came about was almost

0:10:36 > 0:10:38the opposite of that, actually.

0:10:39 > 0:10:42Anna, Duchess of Bedford back in the 1800s, she was actually

0:10:42 > 0:10:44one of Queen Victoria's ladies in waiting

0:10:44 > 0:10:47and they used to have a big breakfast in the morning

0:10:47 > 0:10:50and then a very light lunch and a big dinner much later on at night.

0:10:50 > 0:10:52And poor woman,

0:10:52 > 0:10:56she would find herself just wilting from lack of food.

0:10:56 > 0:10:59So she ordered in some little sandwiches and some little cakes

0:10:59 > 0:11:03just to keep her going until dinnertime and that's how it came about.

0:11:03 > 0:11:06And it spread throughout all the high class houses of the area

0:11:06 > 0:11:08and it soon became the thing to do.

0:11:11 > 0:11:15The cake they sell most of here is the ever popular carrot cake.

0:11:15 > 0:11:17To make me feel at home,

0:11:17 > 0:11:21the girls have thoughtfully cooked up something a bit more full-bodied.

0:11:22 > 0:11:25Here you have a chocolate Guinness cake, which is delicious.

0:11:25 > 0:11:29And this is the topping which is made out of cream cheese

0:11:29 > 0:11:32and double cream and icing sugar

0:11:32 > 0:11:34and you have to spread it all over the top and whip it a bit

0:11:34 > 0:11:38so it looks and resembles the head of a pint of Guinness.

0:11:38 > 0:11:41- It's like a cake version of an Irish coffee.- It is. It is, absolutely.

0:11:41 > 0:11:46- It takes a good one to get past me! - Without the whiskey though.- Yes.- Oh.

0:11:46 > 0:11:49- Look at that. You've got a lovely touch!- Thank you, Terry.

0:11:49 > 0:11:51- You are a natural.- Do you eat a lot of cakes, girls?

0:11:51 > 0:11:55- Oh yes.- We really do. - Every day?- Every day.

0:11:55 > 0:11:58I would say that you two eat a lot of fruit cake!

0:12:00 > 0:12:03At least you didn't say we were two old tarts!

0:12:03 > 0:12:05Oh, we wouldn't say that.

0:12:19 > 0:12:22Thanks to his travels around Britain in the '60s,

0:12:22 > 0:12:26old Sam Chamberlain became a great aficionado of our mediaeval

0:12:26 > 0:12:29towns and cities and he found Wells particularly rewarding.

0:12:32 > 0:12:35And one of the most notable sites is the Vicars' Close,

0:12:35 > 0:12:39said to be the oldest intact residential street in Europe.

0:12:44 > 0:12:49This is perhaps the most remarkable avenue of houses

0:12:49 > 0:12:52along which I've walked.

0:12:52 > 0:12:53Extraordinary.

0:12:53 > 0:13:00They tell me these are the houses of vicars attached to the cathedral.

0:13:00 > 0:13:02Beautiful.

0:13:04 > 0:13:07But it's not the ancient stones that have drawn me here,

0:13:07 > 0:13:10but what lurks in the crevices between them.

0:13:10 > 0:13:14The Mendip Wallfish, named after the hills that surround this city,

0:13:14 > 0:13:18is, I discover, the local name for one of my favourite delicacies.

0:13:19 > 0:13:22Adrian. Hello, how are you?

0:13:22 > 0:13:24- Very well, thank you. - Good to see you.

0:13:24 > 0:13:28Now, I know you are a famous forager but tell me what we've got here.

0:13:28 > 0:13:31What we have here are garden snails,

0:13:31 > 0:13:33otherwise known as Mendip Wallfish.

0:13:33 > 0:13:35That, if I may say so,

0:13:35 > 0:13:38is a fairly devious Somerset way to describe an ordinary snail.

0:13:38 > 0:13:40Will you pick a wild one for me?

0:13:40 > 0:13:43Absolutely. I'll pick this one here. There we go.

0:13:43 > 0:13:45So this is the common garden snail.

0:13:45 > 0:13:49You can see it's got the lovely mottled effect, the browns and the blacks there.

0:13:49 > 0:13:53What you would do is you would collect these

0:13:53 > 0:13:57and basically you have to purge their stomachs of their contents.

0:13:57 > 0:14:00To do that you would need to collect them, put them in a container with air holes

0:14:00 > 0:14:04and basically feed them on lettuce or carrots or cabbage

0:14:04 > 0:14:06or something of that nature

0:14:06 > 0:14:09so that their stomach contents come out.

0:14:09 > 0:14:13These guys can eat poisonous mushrooms, plants, toxic waste.

0:14:13 > 0:14:14It doesn't affect them.

0:14:14 > 0:14:17Their metabolism means that they can cope with this.

0:14:17 > 0:14:21Unfortunately, if you or I subsequently eat that it wouldn't be so good for us.

0:14:21 > 0:14:24- We would be brown bread!- Yes. Quite.

0:14:27 > 0:14:28Be warned, my children,

0:14:28 > 0:14:32it takes about 12 days to purge a snail to make it safe for eating.

0:14:32 > 0:14:36After that, you boil them up and prise them out of their shells.

0:14:37 > 0:14:40Now, they may not look particularly appetising at this point

0:14:40 > 0:14:42but it gets a lot better from here on in.

0:14:43 > 0:14:46- How are we going to cook them? - How are we going to cook them?

0:14:46 > 0:14:49We are going to cook them in a bit of butter and a selection of herbs.

0:14:49 > 0:14:53There is no garlic. Unlike the French, we do not have any garlic.

0:14:53 > 0:14:57They have been cooking and eating snails in this part of the West Country

0:14:57 > 0:14:59for just as long as the French.

0:14:59 > 0:15:01And they have their own very particular recipe,

0:15:01 > 0:15:04involving lots of fresh garden herbs and melted butter

0:15:04 > 0:15:09and finally the magic ingredient - Somerset's secret sauce.

0:15:11 > 0:15:13A little dash of cider in there.

0:15:13 > 0:15:15- You'll have to tell me when. - Yes, keep going.

0:15:16 > 0:15:18Perfect.

0:15:18 > 0:15:21- It smells incredible. - It does smell beautiful.

0:15:21 > 0:15:24After just a few minutes they are ready.

0:15:24 > 0:15:26Wallfish a la Wells.

0:15:27 > 0:15:31- You've got to eat them as well. - Absolutely, yes. Here we go. - Both of us.

0:15:36 > 0:15:37That is stunning.

0:15:37 > 0:15:42It's remarkable. I would never have thought of eating snails like this.

0:15:42 > 0:15:43My compliments.

0:15:43 > 0:15:46- Thank you. - Thank you, Adrian.

0:15:56 > 0:16:00The next phase of our gastronomic voyage of discovery sees us

0:16:00 > 0:16:03leave the safety of the city behind to take our chances

0:16:03 > 0:16:06out in the wilds of rural Somerset.

0:16:07 > 0:16:10Here we go through the winding country roads, Mason.

0:16:10 > 0:16:14Absolutely stunning, Terry. I've got to tell you. Beautiful.

0:16:14 > 0:16:18Is it a bit of a strain for a city black cab driver to find

0:16:18 > 0:16:21himself on the little windy roads here?

0:16:21 > 0:16:23It's different.

0:16:23 > 0:16:26Just different obstacles coming towards me.

0:16:26 > 0:16:28Cows, little humpback bridges!

0:16:29 > 0:16:31- Yes.- SOMERSET ACCENT: Angry farmers.

0:16:38 > 0:16:42- I am not going in there for a start. - Oh, you are.- No. No.

0:16:42 > 0:16:46You'll be up to your armpits in mud in that.

0:16:46 > 0:16:49Fresh air, Tel. Get that down you.

0:16:49 > 0:16:51I can also smell food.

0:16:51 > 0:16:53- Never far away.- No.

0:16:53 > 0:16:57We never go anywhere unless there's an excuse to eat. Come on.

0:17:00 > 0:17:03It turns out that this most English of settings is home to

0:17:03 > 0:17:07an exciting new culinary venture that draws on the tastes

0:17:07 > 0:17:09and traditions of the continent.

0:17:09 > 0:17:13Somerset Charcuterie is the county's largest producer

0:17:13 > 0:17:16of cured and air-dried meats.

0:17:16 > 0:17:19So not your average sausage, then.

0:17:20 > 0:17:24- Hello.- Who are these two manly fellows?- Nice to meet you. Sorry.

0:17:26 > 0:17:29- Andy. How are you doing?- Andy. You must be James.- Absolutely.

0:17:29 > 0:17:30- Good.- Hi, James. Mason.

0:17:32 > 0:17:36Charcuterie comes from the French, meaning cooked meats

0:17:36 > 0:17:40and was originally developed as a way of stopping meat from going off.

0:17:40 > 0:17:43But over 2,000 years it has gone from being a necessary

0:17:43 > 0:17:45practice to a culinary art,

0:17:45 > 0:17:49celebrated for the intense flavours created in the preserving process.

0:17:51 > 0:17:55It was a big European tradition and has been for many, many years.

0:17:55 > 0:17:57But not a British tradition.

0:17:57 > 0:18:02We had salted meats, which were pretty awful by comparison.

0:18:02 > 0:18:04So when the fridge and freezer came along

0:18:04 > 0:18:07and the industrialisation of meat processing, I think

0:18:07 > 0:18:10we were happy to say goodbye to those salty meats

0:18:10 > 0:18:13that weren't much good and replace them with what we've got.

0:18:13 > 0:18:18We haven't got the climate here to be able to produce the kind of things they were producing in Spain.

0:18:18 > 0:18:21Our climate may not have improved much

0:18:21 > 0:18:24but modern technology in the form of these temperature

0:18:24 > 0:18:28and humidity controlled rooms has allowed James and Andy to recreate

0:18:28 > 0:18:33the warm, drying breezes of southern Europe in rainy old Somerset.

0:18:34 > 0:18:37You got the idea of doing this how many years ago?

0:18:38 > 0:18:41We have both been doing it for our own consumption

0:18:41 > 0:18:43for four or five years.

0:18:43 > 0:18:46I'm a butcher by trade. James has some of his own pigs.

0:18:46 > 0:18:51So we have been making air-dried hams and chorizo for family.

0:18:51 > 0:18:55But we've been doing this together in the last couple of years.

0:18:55 > 0:18:58Risking their hard-won reputation, the boys have

0:18:58 > 0:19:02asked for our help in making one of their signature sausages.

0:19:02 > 0:19:07A classic Spanish chorizo with a few extra local ingredients.

0:19:07 > 0:19:10This cheese is made not more than about two miles

0:19:10 > 0:19:13away from where we're standing now on a neighbouring farm.

0:19:13 > 0:19:16- What do you reckon? - Yes. It's absolutely local.

0:19:16 > 0:19:19We are mixing it with this fantastic Spanish smoked paprika.

0:19:19 > 0:19:21Have a smell of that.

0:19:21 > 0:19:24- Mmm.- And cider. - And cider. Not forgetting the cider.

0:19:24 > 0:19:28Does everything have to go with cider in Somerset?!

0:19:28 > 0:19:30Pretty much!

0:19:30 > 0:19:33The ground-up pork is mixed with the salts and spices,

0:19:33 > 0:19:37fresh garlic and our assembled tastes of Somerset.

0:19:37 > 0:19:40And then the fun starts.

0:19:40 > 0:19:42LAUGHTER

0:19:42 > 0:19:45- See that? What are you laughing at? - You're a natural.- Look.

0:19:45 > 0:19:47I was born for this.

0:19:50 > 0:19:53- Well done. Not a bad effort. - That is not a bad effort.

0:19:53 > 0:19:57- For the first few, though, Terry, you have done all right.- Yes.

0:19:57 > 0:19:59I just panicked. To be quite frank.

0:19:59 > 0:20:03Once this is done, what is the next process?

0:20:03 > 0:20:05They go into a hot room, a fermentation room.

0:20:05 > 0:20:08They'll come out of the fermentation room after 24 hours

0:20:08 > 0:20:11and then they'll go into the hanging room for about 10 days.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14- If you don't mind me saying, a well hung sausage.- That's right, Terry.

0:20:14 > 0:20:17- You had to go there, didn't you? - Sorry. I couldn't resist it.

0:20:21 > 0:20:25The chorizo comes in all shapes and sizes but these little chaps

0:20:25 > 0:20:29are perfect to nibble on when you are enjoying a Somerset sundowner.

0:20:31 > 0:20:35- Thanks very much.- Hope you enjoy it. - Really tasty.

0:20:35 > 0:20:38In this series, Mason and I are eating our way through Britain.

0:20:40 > 0:20:43But this little sausage will remain a high spot for me.

0:20:47 > 0:20:51Astounding good health. What do they say in Somerset when they want to say cheers?

0:20:51 > 0:20:52SOMERSET ACCENT: Cheers!

0:20:52 > 0:20:55I thought so. SOMERSET ACCENT: Cheers!

0:21:10 > 0:21:13Look at this. Bar Italia.

0:21:13 > 0:21:16I never think of Wells as being very cosmopolitan

0:21:16 > 0:21:19but as a matter of fact, old Chamberlain says,

0:21:19 > 0:21:24"Most of the waiters in the sunlit dining room

0:21:24 > 0:21:26"in which we ate were Italians.

0:21:26 > 0:21:30"And we suspect the chef was from the Mediterranean also."

0:21:30 > 0:21:33Bar Italia I know in Soho.

0:21:33 > 0:21:35Are there any Italians in the Bar Italia in Soho?

0:21:35 > 0:21:37There's loads of them.

0:21:37 > 0:21:41- Because, you know the way Irish pubs are all over Europe?- Yes.

0:21:41 > 0:21:43You never find an Irishman in them!

0:21:48 > 0:21:52The next phase of this epic food journey sees us

0:21:52 > 0:21:55back in the centre of town trying to fill in the final piece

0:21:55 > 0:21:57of our Wells culinary jigsaw.

0:21:59 > 0:22:02The cultural phenomenon that old Sam remarked on all those years ago

0:22:02 > 0:22:05is still evident today in the surprising number

0:22:05 > 0:22:08of Italian businesses to be seen on the high street.

0:22:08 > 0:22:11And the reason for it lies in the Second World War.

0:22:13 > 0:22:16At that time, there were several prisoner of war camps near Wells

0:22:16 > 0:22:20where Italian soldiers captured during the fighting in Europe

0:22:20 > 0:22:21and Africa were interred.

0:22:21 > 0:22:25And when it was all over, many of them decided to stay on

0:22:25 > 0:22:27and make their lives here.

0:22:28 > 0:22:30Da Luciano. Come in.

0:22:33 > 0:22:37Pizzas. Are pizzas big in Wells in Somerset?

0:22:37 > 0:22:39They are certainly in Wells.

0:22:39 > 0:22:41We started the family business 25 years ago

0:22:41 > 0:22:43and we've never looked back.

0:22:43 > 0:22:47We introduced the pizzas in Wells High Street for the first time,

0:22:47 > 0:22:50the first original pizza shop.

0:22:50 > 0:22:54Presumably, the tastes, the Somerset tastes at that time

0:22:54 > 0:22:56would not have gone towards those pizzas, would they?

0:22:56 > 0:23:00To be honest, when my parents were first here it was very difficult for them

0:23:00 > 0:23:04because people around here had not even heard of spaghetti and lasagne was still foreign.

0:23:04 > 0:23:05Of course.

0:23:05 > 0:23:09It just wasn't one of the foods we find nowadays which is common.

0:23:09 > 0:23:12- Where was the family originally from?- Calabria.

0:23:12 > 0:23:16- Which is right on the toe. The very end...- Of the boot of Italy.

0:23:16 > 0:23:17That's right, yes.

0:23:17 > 0:23:22With our story, it's because my father came over here because of his

0:23:22 > 0:23:26brother who was a prisoner of war and he was in the camp here.

0:23:26 > 0:23:30After the war, my uncle stayed because he liked the area,

0:23:30 > 0:23:34found himself a good job and he persuaded my dad to come over

0:23:34 > 0:23:36and since my dad was over here, he loved it.

0:23:38 > 0:23:41Under the watchful eyes of Luciano's family, including his mother

0:23:41 > 0:23:46and father, we now set about the serious business of pizza making.

0:23:46 > 0:23:48Like a flannel, look.

0:23:48 > 0:23:53- Just slowly rotate it and then comes the spin.- I will stand well back.

0:23:53 > 0:23:56- Yes.- This could go anywhere. - You spin it in the air.

0:23:57 > 0:24:02- And that is now ready. - Ready to be laid upon.- Yes.

0:24:05 > 0:24:06Fresh tomato sauce.

0:24:09 > 0:24:12- So this tomato...- You don't put too much on it, do you?

0:24:14 > 0:24:17Maybe later, I will open another pizza restaurant down the road!

0:24:18 > 0:24:21We can have a bit of competition!

0:24:21 > 0:24:24I would call mine Pizza Terreria!

0:24:24 > 0:24:25Formaggio!

0:24:25 > 0:24:28Here we have some salsiccia.

0:24:28 > 0:24:30This is fun. This is good.

0:24:30 > 0:24:32Asparagus or...

0:24:32 > 0:24:35Let's try a little local asparagus.

0:24:39 > 0:24:41Let's put this pizza in the oven.

0:24:41 > 0:24:44- I've got it. I got it. - OK. Nice and steady.

0:24:52 > 0:24:55Pizza Terry.

0:24:55 > 0:24:59I am bound to say it's not a bad effort, even if I say so myself.

0:24:59 > 0:25:01Good man.

0:25:03 > 0:25:05With the pizza safely stowed,

0:25:05 > 0:25:09I head off to share the fruits of my labour with my partner in crime.

0:25:09 > 0:25:11The Bonnie to my Clyde.

0:25:11 > 0:25:13Mason McQueen.

0:25:13 > 0:25:16- You want me to try this, do you? - Tell me you don't like this.

0:25:16 > 0:25:18Beware of an Irishman bearing gifts.

0:25:19 > 0:25:22I put a bit of asparagus in it for you.

0:25:25 > 0:25:28- I've got to say, it's not bad. - That is good, Tel.- It's not bad.

0:25:29 > 0:25:32Calabrian pizza eaten off the front of a London cab

0:25:32 > 0:25:35in sight of the great cathedral.

0:25:35 > 0:25:38Truly, Wells fare at its finest.

0:25:40 > 0:25:42But we haven't finished yet.

0:25:42 > 0:25:47As a grand finale to our Wells food adventure, we're heading back to the Bishop's Palace,

0:25:47 > 0:25:51where we have invited all our new friends to join us

0:25:51 > 0:25:54for a celebration of the tastes and flavours

0:25:54 > 0:25:57that it's been our good fortune to discover in this fine city.

0:25:59 > 0:26:02Don't blow this. This is a big catering contract!

0:26:02 > 0:26:03My nerves are in bits now.

0:26:08 > 0:26:10Good evening, ladies and gentlemen.

0:26:10 > 0:26:15Myself and my compatriot here, Mr Mason McQueen,

0:26:15 > 0:26:18are very pleased to serve such a distinguished crowd.

0:26:18 > 0:26:20And you as well!

0:26:20 > 0:26:22LAUGHTER

0:26:22 > 0:26:26Amazingly, I discover that some of our guests had yet to taste

0:26:26 > 0:26:29the famous Mendip Wallfish.

0:26:29 > 0:26:32- Is that your first snail?- Yes. - It is your first snail.

0:26:32 > 0:26:36But don't say you can't eat something if you haven't tasted it first.

0:26:36 > 0:26:39- You see, the cider in that makes a difference, doesn't it?- That's nice.

0:26:39 > 0:26:41It is, you see. A convert.

0:26:44 > 0:26:46Isn't that good?

0:26:50 > 0:26:53OK. We will leave you with that expression on your face!

0:26:56 > 0:26:59OK, so we have changed it a bit. The bishop used to feed them.

0:26:59 > 0:27:01Now you've got an Irishman and a Cockney.

0:27:01 > 0:27:03The party is going with a swing,

0:27:03 > 0:27:07but now it's time for us to get back on the road.

0:27:08 > 0:27:10Ladies and gentlemen.

0:27:10 > 0:27:14It's been a great honour and a privilege for Mason and I to serve you

0:27:14 > 0:27:17this special bishop's feast in this palace.

0:27:17 > 0:27:20Thank you for the welcome in Wells. We've had a wonderful time.

0:27:20 > 0:27:22- Thank you.- Thank you.

0:27:22 > 0:27:23ALL: CHEERS!

0:27:29 > 0:27:32So as the sun goes down over Wells and reflects

0:27:32 > 0:27:36on the old Bishop's Palace here, it's been a good day, hasn't it?

0:27:36 > 0:27:39- It's been a great day. What a place. - Did you enjoy the feast?- Yes, I did.

0:27:39 > 0:27:43- Really nice.- Did you enjoy the snails?- Yes.- Snails and cider.

0:27:43 > 0:27:46Slowly but surely, they were all right.

0:27:46 > 0:27:49- They have wormed their way into your affections.- They have, mate.

0:27:49 > 0:27:51- And tomorrow is another day.- It is.

0:27:51 > 0:27:53Let's go.