Marlow

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0:00:04 > 0:00:07- Hiya, mate.- Hello.- Sporty chap.- Good.

0:00:07 > 0:00:09- Where is your bike?- Right over there. - Oh, is it?

0:00:09 > 0:00:12Goodness sake, you don't think he came here without a bike, do you?

0:00:12 > 0:00:14I don't know. He just got off the bus.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20It's taken 50 years in broadcasting, but I finally cracked it.

0:00:20 > 0:00:21HE LAUGHS

0:00:21 > 0:00:24A chance to meander around the country, see the sights,

0:00:24 > 0:00:26meet the people.

0:00:27 > 0:00:29And, oh, yes - eat and drink.

0:00:29 > 0:00:32Is melt in the mouth a suitable phrase?

0:00:33 > 0:00:36I've hailed a cab with one of London's fineness cabbies,

0:00:36 > 0:00:37Mason McQueen,

0:00:37 > 0:00:40to steer me around Britain's highways and byways.

0:00:40 > 0:00:42I'm looking forward to a decent meal, are you?

0:00:42 > 0:00:44Oh, I'm starving. I can't wait, Tel.

0:00:44 > 0:00:47Our route has been mapped out by an adventurist gourmand,

0:00:47 > 0:00:51Samuel Chamberlain, in his book, British Bouquet.

0:00:51 > 0:00:54Almost 60 years later, we're following in his footsteps...

0:00:54 > 0:00:56I'll do all the work, Tel.

0:00:56 > 0:01:00..to seek out weird and wonderful regional British cuisine

0:01:00 > 0:01:03and discover how our tastes have changed over the years.

0:01:03 > 0:01:05Do it right, son.

0:01:05 > 0:01:08- Whoo! - THEY LAUGH

0:01:08 > 0:01:11- Abbey Road, in Marlow. - Abbey Road, Marlow.

0:01:13 > 0:01:15Just like them. Just like them, wasn't it?

0:01:15 > 0:01:17If only there'd been four of us.

0:01:25 > 0:01:29Our unselfish exploration of British cuisine has brought us to the

0:01:29 > 0:01:32heart of the Thames Valley and the ancient town of Marlow,

0:01:32 > 0:01:33in Buckinghamshire.

0:01:36 > 0:01:38This region is home to mouthwatering produce,

0:01:38 > 0:01:41fine dining restaurants and myself.

0:01:42 > 0:01:46Would you fancy living out this neck of the woods, Mason?

0:01:46 > 0:01:50Tel, they won't let me into this county. I'd love to live out here.

0:01:50 > 0:01:52- It is absolutely stunning.- Hang on.

0:01:52 > 0:01:54If they let a common Irishman in, they'll let you in.

0:01:54 > 0:01:56Our dear old friend Chamberlain says,

0:01:56 > 0:01:59"Abundant good news for the gourmet of this populous county.

0:01:59 > 0:02:03"Some of the best rural dining places in England,

0:02:03 > 0:02:05"most of them on the banks of the Thames.

0:02:05 > 0:02:08"The river forms the northern boundary of Berkshire."

0:02:09 > 0:02:11Perched on the border of Bucks and Berks,

0:02:11 > 0:02:14Marlow is divided by the River Thames.

0:02:14 > 0:02:17The town has always been an important place to cross the river.

0:02:17 > 0:02:20It has an imposing bridge to prove it.

0:02:20 > 0:02:21OK, Mason, take me

0:02:21 > 0:02:24over this extraordinary suspension bridge at Marlow.

0:02:24 > 0:02:28Most towns are twinned with towns in Europe.

0:02:28 > 0:02:32This is a bridge that is twinned with the bridge that crosses

0:02:32 > 0:02:35the Danube, between Buda and Pest.

0:02:35 > 0:02:38- Ah!- Budapest.- You are a bowl knowledge, you are.- In Hungary.

0:02:38 > 0:02:40You did mention Hungary... I'm starving.

0:02:40 > 0:02:42Shall we stop for something, Tel?

0:02:42 > 0:02:45No, no, no! A thousand times no.

0:02:45 > 0:02:49Ignoring my protestations, Mason parks the cab.

0:02:50 > 0:02:54We take to the streets to see what we can sink our teeth into.

0:02:54 > 0:02:57Here we are, Tel, lavish Marlow.

0:02:57 > 0:03:00Well, I wouldn't call lavish, but it is certainly very smart.

0:03:02 > 0:03:03What are you doing in Marlow?

0:03:03 > 0:03:05What are we doing in Marlow? We are looking...

0:03:05 > 0:03:07We are seeing if we can find a pretty little dog

0:03:07 > 0:03:08that we could take away with us.

0:03:08 > 0:03:11My mum would be over the moon if she knew I met you today.

0:03:11 > 0:03:13It's usually people's grannies, but I am delighted to see you.

0:03:16 > 0:03:20Tel, my estimations of Marlow have rocketed. They have got a Wimpy!

0:03:20 > 0:03:23I thought Wimpy's had been wiped out with the dinosaur.

0:03:23 > 0:03:25Yes! Wimpy bar.

0:03:25 > 0:03:26- Oh!- Get in there!- No!

0:03:28 > 0:03:31When it comes to the burger bars of Marlow, there is

0:03:31 > 0:03:33one that might not sell what you expect.

0:03:33 > 0:03:35Despite the sign,

0:03:35 > 0:03:38there are no quarter pounders with cheese in here.

0:03:38 > 0:03:40You'll be Bernard Burger.

0:03:40 > 0:03:44Bernard Burger of the shop that most people call Burgers.

0:03:44 > 0:03:49Burgers, yes. They think we sell burgers. It is a very confusing.

0:03:49 > 0:03:51My parents started it.

0:03:51 > 0:03:53And then I worked with my brother for 40-odd years.

0:03:53 > 0:03:56And now I work with my eldest daughter, Rachel.

0:03:56 > 0:03:57Excellent.

0:03:57 > 0:04:00Bernard's parents arrived from Switzerland in 1936

0:04:00 > 0:04:06and began serving Marlow sweet Continental treats in 1942.

0:04:06 > 0:04:0970 years later on, our visitors caused a bit of a stir.

0:04:09 > 0:04:13We don't normally have celebrities visiting us, so it is... You now...

0:04:13 > 0:04:17Thank you for the celebrity, because we just met one of your customers

0:04:17 > 0:04:21who looked at me and said, "They had to tell me who you were, you know."

0:04:21 > 0:04:23And then she turned to him and said, "And who are you?"

0:04:23 > 0:04:25"Are you anybody?"

0:04:25 > 0:04:28- We are all somebody, right?- Exactly. Well, I hope so.- Anyway.

0:04:28 > 0:04:30All the cakes made on the premises?

0:04:30 > 0:04:33You are a well-known gentleman who won Mastermind, aren't you?

0:04:33 > 0:04:35No. You definitely got that wrong.

0:04:35 > 0:04:36Just another taxi driver.

0:04:38 > 0:04:40Mason on Mastermind? Now there is a thought!

0:04:40 > 0:04:43Specialised subject - stuffing your face.

0:04:43 > 0:04:48- And Terry?- Anything slimming for me? - It is all non-fattening, sir.

0:04:48 > 0:04:51Oh, excellent. I tell you what we'd like, the japonais.

0:04:53 > 0:04:54Aah! The japonais.

0:04:54 > 0:04:58This cosmopolitan confection is Bernard's best seller.

0:04:58 > 0:05:01Heading into the kitchen, we meet Anne and Colin

0:05:01 > 0:05:05to discover the magic behind Marlow's favourite sweet treat.

0:05:05 > 0:05:08So, japonais, where...? Is it French, yeah?

0:05:08 > 0:05:10Yes, it is a Continental...

0:05:10 > 0:05:15- Cake.- Treat, yeah.- Continental treat. - Where does Japan come into it?

0:05:15 > 0:05:16I have no idea.

0:05:16 > 0:05:18Wherever the name came from, you can

0:05:18 > 0:05:23make the japonais by squeezing out some meringue mixed with hazelnuts.

0:05:23 > 0:05:24It's like using a mastic gun.

0:05:24 > 0:05:28- When did you last use a mastic gun? - A while ago.

0:05:32 > 0:05:35Look at that. The boy is a natural.

0:05:35 > 0:05:36Superb.

0:05:38 > 0:05:40Oh, look at that one!

0:05:41 > 0:05:45- Not bad.- Consistency, Terry. - By that he means mediocrity.- Yeah.

0:05:45 > 0:05:48Once cooked, they're covered in buttercream.

0:05:48 > 0:05:51What a good plasterer. You would be a good plasterer.

0:05:51 > 0:05:52It is like rendering, isn't it?

0:05:54 > 0:05:56Have you done much plastering, Anne?

0:05:56 > 0:05:59Cos I have got a bedroom indoors, it needs... The ceiling's gone.

0:05:59 > 0:06:03Plastering over, Marlow's favourite treat is snapped in two

0:06:03 > 0:06:05and covered in crumbs.

0:06:05 > 0:06:08Colin, I've got to say, that looks like a Thai fishcake.

0:06:08 > 0:06:11THEY LAUGH

0:06:11 > 0:06:13Well, I like Thai fishcakes. It's OK, Mas.

0:06:13 > 0:06:15Don't knock yourself.

0:06:15 > 0:06:20A final chocolate flourish and the japonais are ready.

0:06:20 > 0:06:22- What do you reckon?- Yeah. - Passable?- Yeah.

0:06:22 > 0:06:26- So Anne and Colin, do you eat of these as you go?- No.

0:06:26 > 0:06:30- I don't eat any.- No, I don't eat those. They're a bit too...

0:06:30 > 0:06:31I don't eat them, no.

0:06:31 > 0:06:33Well, that is a recommendation, isn't it?

0:06:33 > 0:06:36They do look a little more sumo than geisha,

0:06:36 > 0:06:38but that has never stopped us before.

0:06:38 > 0:06:40Well, Doctor?

0:06:40 > 0:06:43I think I've just had a sugar rush.

0:06:43 > 0:06:45LAUGHS: Yeah!

0:06:47 > 0:06:49Fantastic.

0:06:56 > 0:07:00- It is a colourful place, isn't it? - Yeah. Yeah, nice with the bunting.

0:07:00 > 0:07:03The bunting that stretches across this high street here.

0:07:03 > 0:07:05Of course, it is

0:07:05 > 0:07:08supposed to be reflective of the fact that the Henry Royal Regatta

0:07:08 > 0:07:12is celebrated in this town, and they participate in it quite a lot.

0:07:12 > 0:07:15But also, of course, they leave the bunting up for Christmas as well.

0:07:15 > 0:07:18That saves them getting the step ladders out, doesn't it?

0:07:18 > 0:07:20Put a little bit of sparkly stuff on the bunting

0:07:20 > 0:07:22and you've got Christmas decorations.

0:07:22 > 0:07:24MASON LAUGHS

0:07:25 > 0:07:28Looking at the gleaming, sophisticated streets of Marlow,

0:07:28 > 0:07:32it is easy to believe that there were ever thus, but not so.

0:07:32 > 0:07:34Before the bankers and the brokers,

0:07:34 > 0:07:37Marlow had its reputation elsewhere.

0:07:39 > 0:07:42I get a great personal satisfaction from seeing other people

0:07:42 > 0:07:43working, don't you?

0:07:43 > 0:07:47- Yeah.- Lace making, by hand?

0:07:47 > 0:07:49I didn't think anybody made lace by hand any more.

0:07:49 > 0:07:52Lace was made by hand

0:07:52 > 0:07:55as a means of livelihood in Marlow

0:07:55 > 0:07:57from the mid-1500s.

0:07:57 > 0:07:59I think you know it is coming.

0:07:59 > 0:08:02Time to see if we can get crafty with the bobbins.

0:08:02 > 0:08:05What I have got here is a swan.

0:08:05 > 0:08:08What about you having a go at the swan, Terry?

0:08:09 > 0:08:12All you have to do is this.

0:08:12 > 0:08:17Two over three, and you do those two back.

0:08:17 > 0:08:23- Putting two over three. - Over three, that's right.- And...

0:08:23 > 0:08:26- That one over there.- That one over there.- No. That one and this one.

0:08:26 > 0:08:29No! I do apologise, Pamela.

0:08:29 > 0:08:32But look, if I can teach eight year olds

0:08:32 > 0:08:37and nine year olds on a Sunday afternoon, anybody can do it.

0:08:37 > 0:08:40- No, I don't think so. - What about you having a go?

0:08:40 > 0:08:42Do you want to have a go on the snake?

0:08:42 > 0:08:46- The snake would suit him better. - Come on, we will do the snake.

0:08:48 > 0:08:51The two... Those two come back.

0:08:51 > 0:08:56- There?- No.- There?- No.- No, no, Mason!

0:08:56 > 0:08:59- Hang on.- Sorry!- Novice. "No."- There is no excuse.

0:08:59 > 0:09:03- Am I irritating you, madam?- Look, if an eight year old can do it...

0:09:03 > 0:09:05- Excellent. - I can see the pattern there now.

0:09:05 > 0:09:08- You'll end up with a proper... - It's muscle memory, isn't it?- Yes.

0:09:08 > 0:09:10So how long do you think you have been making lace?

0:09:10 > 0:09:1260 years come September.

0:09:12 > 0:09:15- And very pretty, too. Thank you, Pamela.- Thank you.

0:09:21 > 0:09:26As time went on, Marlow's lace was gracing its high-class eateries,

0:09:26 > 0:09:28including one of Chamberlain's favourite

0:09:28 > 0:09:30restaurants in the country.

0:09:30 > 0:09:32We're coming up to Compleat Angler,

0:09:32 > 0:09:35"an absolutely idyllic spot on the river bank.

0:09:35 > 0:09:38"An understandable favourite for anglers who cherish their hobby

0:09:38 > 0:09:40"as well as the good things of life."

0:09:40 > 0:09:41The Compleat Angler.

0:09:41 > 0:09:45The fact that they can't spell complete is beside the point.

0:09:46 > 0:09:48They might have an archaic way of spelling it,

0:09:48 > 0:09:52but the setting is sublime. Drinks on the lawn, anyone?

0:09:52 > 0:09:55This was a favourite spot of our old friend Chamberlain here.

0:09:55 > 0:09:58"The dining salon is an airy place facing the river.

0:09:58 > 0:10:00"The service is attentive. The cuisine is French.

0:10:00 > 0:10:01"Highly commendable."

0:10:01 > 0:10:03HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:10:03 > 0:10:08Listen to this, "The minimum of 25 shillings for the prix fixe."

0:10:08 > 0:10:10I think that is long gone! That is long gone.

0:10:10 > 0:10:12So I am looking forward to it.

0:10:12 > 0:10:16So we will be in there for the haute cuisine francaise, really.

0:10:16 > 0:10:18So let's see, though, Tel. It has been a long time.

0:10:18 > 0:10:22- '60s, long time ago.- Places like this don't change, do they?

0:10:22 > 0:10:23I think they do.

0:10:28 > 0:10:32It seems Chamberlain's plat du jour is now a little more exotic.

0:10:32 > 0:10:36This is a far cry from Chamberlain's haute cuisine francaise, isn't it?

0:10:36 > 0:10:37Oh, yes.

0:10:37 > 0:10:38Get off.

0:10:38 > 0:10:41And the man in charge is Atoll Kochhar,

0:10:41 > 0:10:44the first Indian chef to get a Michelin star.

0:10:44 > 0:10:47This is a posh Ruby, this one, Tel, innit?

0:10:49 > 0:10:52I am only drinking this water because of you, you know.

0:10:52 > 0:10:55Very kind.

0:10:55 > 0:10:58You can have a drink if you want to, I'm driving. You are all right.

0:10:58 > 0:11:01Just don't be causing any trouble in the lobby.

0:11:01 > 0:11:04Yeah, I don't want any ill feeling in the cab.

0:11:07 > 0:11:09People shouting from the front,

0:11:09 > 0:11:11"I can smell the drink off you, mate."

0:11:13 > 0:11:15I don't want any more of that.

0:11:18 > 0:11:20With our food arrives the man who cooked it.

0:11:20 > 0:11:23And he kindly shares a table with us.

0:11:23 > 0:11:27Our friend Samuel Chamberlain wrote in 1963 that this place

0:11:27 > 0:11:31- was a haven of haute cuisine francaise...- Wow.

0:11:31 > 0:11:33..done in the British manner.

0:11:33 > 0:11:36- Well, I guess I have changed it a lot.- Don't worry, Atoll.

0:11:36 > 0:11:37Don't worry at all.

0:11:37 > 0:11:39Well, no, it is indicative of how things have

0:11:39 > 0:11:43- changed on the food map of Britain, isn't it?- Absolutely.

0:11:43 > 0:11:46What is British cuisine is a big question in today's time.

0:11:46 > 0:11:49And I think we all have become part of this strong culture,

0:11:49 > 0:11:50strong cuisine.

0:11:50 > 0:11:52The way we have been cooking in this country,

0:11:52 > 0:11:55I think we have moved far away from the way it has been cooked in India.

0:11:55 > 0:11:58In India, if I put that plate in front of anybody,

0:11:58 > 0:12:01they would say, "Yeah, nice French dish."

0:12:01 > 0:12:05- Albeit there are some spices in there.- I have to say also...

0:12:06 > 0:12:11- This fish is fantastic. What is your favourite dish?- Oh.- Come on.

0:12:11 > 0:12:13- It is fish and chips. - Fish and chips!

0:12:13 > 0:12:16- I don't believe it.- You only said that to keep us quiet.- Not at all.

0:12:16 > 0:12:21- It is a filler. It makes you happy. What else do you need?- Exactly.

0:12:26 > 0:12:29Here we are embracing Berkshire, anyway.

0:12:29 > 0:12:33A rather grand part of the country.

0:12:33 > 0:12:38And this is where the better class of turkey is reared, you know.

0:12:40 > 0:12:42- Royal turkeys.- Yeah.

0:12:42 > 0:12:44We have got to see the finer points of a turkey.

0:12:44 > 0:12:47Copas Farm is the name of the place.

0:12:47 > 0:12:50We will probably hear the gobbling from way off.

0:12:50 > 0:12:54This area has been associated with high-class birds for over 50 years.

0:12:54 > 0:12:58And it seems that security is tight around this luxury produce.

0:13:00 > 0:13:05- This... This is a turkey orchard. - Yeah. I am slightly worried, Tel.

0:13:05 > 0:13:06Look at the size of this gate.

0:13:06 > 0:13:08Why do they need a cage to keep the turkeys in?

0:13:08 > 0:13:11MENACING MUSIC

0:13:11 > 0:13:12You go first.

0:13:12 > 0:13:15- They always go for men in hats.- OK.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18I'll risk it all for you, Mason.

0:13:18 > 0:13:20It might be like those things that were in Jurassic Park,

0:13:20 > 0:13:23you know, running through the wheat fields.

0:13:23 > 0:13:25Take your leg off.

0:13:25 > 0:13:27I don't like it, Mason, it is too quiet.

0:13:27 > 0:13:30- MASON WHISTLES, TERRY CLAPS - Here, turkey, turkey, turkey!

0:13:30 > 0:13:32Turkey... How do you attract a turkey?

0:13:32 > 0:13:34MASON LAUGHS

0:13:34 > 0:13:36"How do you attract a turkey..."

0:13:37 > 0:13:39It's not Christmas, you're safe!

0:13:44 > 0:13:46They're coming at us from all angles, Mason.

0:13:47 > 0:13:49I hope you are enjoying the sunshine,

0:13:49 > 0:13:52cos it doesn't end well here, you know that.

0:13:52 > 0:13:55Amongst the poultry, we find Tom Copas and Steve Hellings,

0:13:55 > 0:13:59the men who safeguard Christmas dinner for so many.

0:13:59 > 0:14:00Time to talk turkey.

0:14:00 > 0:14:03Tom Copas, the man of the turkey.

0:14:03 > 0:14:04How many turkeys have we got here?

0:14:04 > 0:14:07We've got 38,000 turkeys this season.

0:14:07 > 0:14:09- And they all go for Christmas? - All for Christmas.

0:14:09 > 0:14:12Most important bird of the most important meal of the year.

0:14:12 > 0:14:15The turkey doesn't have a predator, does it?

0:14:15 > 0:14:17In the wild, it does.

0:14:17 > 0:14:20And that is why you don't get any wild turkeys in this country.

0:14:20 > 0:14:22Because the foxes predominate.

0:14:22 > 0:14:28You have to go to New Zealand or, in fact, on some of the Scottish

0:14:28 > 0:14:31islands there is no foxes and you get wild turkeys there.

0:14:31 > 0:14:34- So it is a big problem for you, then, keeping out the fox.- Yes.

0:14:34 > 0:14:39- How you do that?- Making sure the perimeter fences are secure.- Oh!

0:14:39 > 0:14:41Ah, the perimeter fence is to keep the fox...?

0:14:41 > 0:14:44- To keep the turkeys in.- That is what I thought.- And keep the fox out.

0:14:44 > 0:14:46Yeah, we thought the fences were a bit tall

0:14:46 > 0:14:48- and we were a bit frightened when we came in.- We didn't know.

0:14:48 > 0:14:51We thought they might be three-foot turkeys with boxing gloves on.

0:14:51 > 0:14:54And what do you both eat for Christmas?

0:14:55 > 0:14:58- Definitely turkey.- Of course, turkey.- Of course, what else?

0:14:58 > 0:15:00Turkey every week.

0:15:00 > 0:15:02- Not just Christmas.- Every Christmas.

0:15:05 > 0:15:09Back at the turkey farm house, it is Christmas every day.

0:15:09 > 0:15:12Over on the far side of the table there is the raw turkey,

0:15:12 > 0:15:13which we start off with.

0:15:13 > 0:15:15- Really?- Yes. - I'm not going to eat that.

0:15:17 > 0:15:20But if you cook it upside down, all the fat that's on the back will

0:15:20 > 0:15:24then percolate through the breast as it is cooking.

0:15:24 > 0:15:26I bet you have done that a few times, Tom.

0:15:26 > 0:15:28Would you come round to our house at Christmas and do it for us?

0:15:28 > 0:15:30I'd love to, but probably no.

0:15:30 > 0:15:32THEY LAUGH

0:15:32 > 0:15:35- I can't wait for you guys, I am going to have to get stuck in.- Go on.

0:15:37 > 0:15:38Delicious.

0:15:40 > 0:15:42Tasty and succulent.

0:15:42 > 0:15:45I just feel, Tom, if there is one thing that is missing here...

0:15:47 > 0:15:49..it's a funny hat.

0:15:49 > 0:15:53- And a cracker.- And my present. Where is my present, Terry?- You see?

0:15:55 > 0:15:57I wish it was Christmas.

0:16:05 > 0:16:08Mason, we are going to the Hellfire Caves.

0:16:08 > 0:16:13All sorts of racy doings went on in the Hellfire...

0:16:13 > 0:16:15What they call the Hellfire Club.

0:16:15 > 0:16:17Will your moral standards be all right?

0:16:17 > 0:16:22You won't feel that you are being in any way offended by references

0:16:22 > 0:16:24to Satanism and black masters and everything like that?

0:16:24 > 0:16:28I am looking forward to finding out all about that. I really am.

0:16:28 > 0:16:30That's what I was afraid of!

0:16:31 > 0:16:35The notorious Hellfire Club dabbled in black magic

0:16:35 > 0:16:39and general misbehaviour in these mysterious underground caves

0:16:39 > 0:16:40just outside Marlow.

0:16:40 > 0:16:42Look at this place.

0:16:42 > 0:16:45Our interest piqued. we are meeting Jack Orr,

0:16:45 > 0:16:48who can spill the beans on this Georgian nightclub.

0:16:48 > 0:16:50- How do you do, sir? - Nice to meet you.- Good to see you.

0:16:50 > 0:16:54So, Jack, can you tell us about these caves? Who actually built them?

0:16:54 > 0:16:57So it was Lord Dashwood in the Georgian era, 1748,

0:16:57 > 0:16:59who commissioned for these caves to be built.

0:16:59 > 0:17:02Are you going to tell us all there is to know about Lord Dashwood

0:17:02 > 0:17:05and his rascally friends?

0:17:05 > 0:17:06I can't give away too many secrets.

0:17:06 > 0:17:09I don't want... I don't want Mason upset.

0:17:09 > 0:17:14- Oh!- OK.- Is he sensitive? - Oh, yes.- Slightly.

0:17:14 > 0:17:16Well, he doesn't want to feel he missed anything, you know?

0:17:16 > 0:17:18THEY LAUGH

0:17:18 > 0:17:22Once built, Lord Dashwood used his labyrinth of tunnels

0:17:22 > 0:17:25and rooms to hold wild parties.

0:17:25 > 0:17:28Patrons included artists, doctors, politicians

0:17:28 > 0:17:31and even an American founding father.

0:17:31 > 0:17:32But it wasn't all lads.

0:17:32 > 0:17:35Women were equal members of the club.

0:17:35 > 0:17:38And in the 18th century, women are second-class citizens.

0:17:38 > 0:17:41But down here, they were equals. But they...

0:17:41 > 0:17:44They all came from a certain profession when they came down here.

0:17:44 > 0:17:46Oh, yes. Legal.

0:17:46 > 0:17:47Yes.

0:17:47 > 0:17:49One of them old professions, yeah?

0:17:49 > 0:17:51The oldest one in the world, yeah, exactly.

0:17:51 > 0:17:55- But the men...- So they were journalists, were they?- Yes.

0:17:55 > 0:17:57The men came dressed up as monks,

0:17:57 > 0:17:59where they'd be robed just further up.

0:17:59 > 0:18:02And the ladies of the night would come dressed as nuns.

0:18:02 > 0:18:05And they would have what they called private devotion with one another.

0:18:05 > 0:18:08Wow. They'd make a HABIT of it, eh?

0:18:08 > 0:18:09Sorry.

0:18:11 > 0:18:14The centrepiece of this hand-carved den of iniquity is

0:18:14 > 0:18:16the feasting room.

0:18:16 > 0:18:20It is 40 feet across. It is 50 feet high up.

0:18:20 > 0:18:23So when they are in here laughing and feasting and drinking,

0:18:23 > 0:18:27all their laughter and singing is just carrying, echoing.

0:18:27 > 0:18:29Reverberating with debauchery.

0:18:29 > 0:18:32You get a real feel for it, though, don't you?

0:18:32 > 0:18:35Certainly, you could have up fantastic karaoke in here.

0:18:37 > 0:18:38Hello!

0:18:38 > 0:18:40Yes.

0:18:40 > 0:18:42Bring me a mistress!

0:18:42 > 0:18:45So, tell us, how long did it last?

0:18:45 > 0:18:47They were going for a good couple of years.

0:18:47 > 0:18:50- MYSTERIOUSLY:- And there was one gentleman who liked to prank.

0:18:50 > 0:18:54One day, he brought down to a meeting a big wooden chest.

0:18:54 > 0:18:58They all fell silent for prayer, ignoring this chest.

0:18:58 > 0:19:02And when they close their eyes, he opened up this chest...

0:19:02 > 0:19:04- LOUDLY: - And from within came a baboon!

0:19:04 > 0:19:06Now you have to remember,

0:19:06 > 0:19:08most people in the 18th century have never seen a baboon before.

0:19:08 > 0:19:13So when this creature emerged and it was dressed in a devil costume,

0:19:13 > 0:19:16all hell literally broke loose.

0:19:16 > 0:19:19And it jumps onto the Earl of Sandwich's back.

0:19:19 > 0:19:23And Sandwich, who had had enough, went back to the

0:19:23 > 0:19:27Houses of Parliament and exposed Wilkes and other members.

0:19:27 > 0:19:31- Gassed him out.- And these men were broken up over a baboon.

0:19:31 > 0:19:34- Still, it was fun while it lasted. - Oh, yeah.- Too rock and roll.

0:19:37 > 0:19:39Cor, that was fascinating.

0:19:39 > 0:19:41Wasn't that fascinating, Mason?

0:19:41 > 0:19:42Mason!

0:19:42 > 0:19:44Mason!

0:19:45 > 0:19:46Terry!

0:19:49 > 0:19:52SCREAMING

0:19:52 > 0:19:55SCREAMING CONTINUES

0:20:03 > 0:20:07Having been spared from human sacrifice, quite naturally our

0:20:07 > 0:20:12thoughts turned to that cornerstone of British hospitality - the pub.

0:20:12 > 0:20:15And our friend Chamberlain has an interesting take on these

0:20:15 > 0:20:17establishments.

0:20:17 > 0:20:20"Ladies are always welcome, apparently, in these public houses."

0:20:20 > 0:20:22- LAUGHS:- According to Chamberlain.

0:20:22 > 0:20:25"And the atmosphere is invariably respectable."

0:20:25 > 0:20:27- LAUGHS:- Where...?

0:20:27 > 0:20:30What is the matter with him? Has he ever been in a pub in his life?

0:20:30 > 0:20:33"And the barmaid behind the counter is sometimes pert and pretty.

0:20:33 > 0:20:35MASON LAUGHS

0:20:35 > 0:20:38"But she often resembles a straight-laced schoolteacher,

0:20:38 > 0:20:40"sensible self-service prevents..."

0:20:40 > 0:20:41For heaven's sake!

0:20:43 > 0:20:44Back in Marlow,

0:20:44 > 0:20:48we have a reservation at the ultimate gastro pub -

0:20:48 > 0:20:51the first pub to receive two coveted Michelin stars.

0:20:51 > 0:20:53This is pub grub at its best.

0:20:53 > 0:20:55Hand and Flowers, it is called.

0:20:55 > 0:20:57- FRENCH ACCENTS:- It has got rooms. - Rooms?

0:20:57 > 0:21:00- Would you like a room? - I'd love a room.- Or a Zimmer?

0:21:00 > 0:21:03- Which would you prefer?- Well, something to eat would be good.- OK.

0:21:03 > 0:21:05Oui, mons... I hope he does not have a dog.

0:21:05 > 0:21:08- Tommy K's, eh? Let's go.- Yeah.

0:21:09 > 0:21:11Leaving Mason to prop up the bar,

0:21:11 > 0:21:14I'm heading to the kitchen to meet the man behind this pub's success.

0:21:14 > 0:21:17You may have heard of him - Tom Kerridge.

0:21:17 > 0:21:18Gentlemen.

0:21:18 > 0:21:20Nice to see you all.

0:21:20 > 0:21:21Carry on with the work.

0:21:21 > 0:21:24- Hello there, chief, how are you? - Look at you.

0:21:24 > 0:21:26- If I may say, not looking as proper lush as you used to.- No, no.

0:21:26 > 0:21:31- No, you are OK. - Tom 2.0, a little bit smaller.

0:21:31 > 0:21:33What is the secret, son?

0:21:33 > 0:21:35Actually, becoming the most boring man on earth. No booze at all.

0:21:35 > 0:21:37Knocked it on the head.

0:21:38 > 0:21:40OK. Well, that is the end of our conversation.

0:21:40 > 0:21:42HE LAUGHS

0:21:42 > 0:21:43Come back!

0:21:44 > 0:21:46Tom, this is a great success.

0:21:46 > 0:21:49Everybody knows about your great success. Two Michelin stars.

0:21:49 > 0:21:53- And it is a simple pub. It started as a pub.- It still is.

0:21:53 > 0:21:56That ethos. The whole point of pubs, and British pubs,

0:21:56 > 0:21:59it is about people feeling comfortable in their environment.

0:21:59 > 0:22:02And that is all we have supposed to have done here.

0:22:02 > 0:22:04You'll be glad to know that Tom has offered to feed us

0:22:04 > 0:22:06some old-fashioned pub grub,

0:22:06 > 0:22:09but with a Michelin-starred twist.

0:22:09 > 0:22:13So we put the chicken in a brine and poach it with some hops.

0:22:13 > 0:22:14And because you are here, we will

0:22:14 > 0:22:16grate some beautiful black truffle on the top of it.

0:22:16 > 0:22:17It is a bit is appointing,

0:22:17 > 0:22:20I was hoping it would be the white truffle, Tom.

0:22:20 > 0:22:22Not in season. Sadly, not in season.

0:22:22 > 0:22:24- White truffle... - And also about twice the price.

0:22:24 > 0:22:26Yeah, well, a bit more than twice the price, yeah.

0:22:26 > 0:22:29You see, I always think truffle is a bit overrated.

0:22:29 > 0:22:31- It is wonderful to smell.- Yeah.

0:22:31 > 0:22:35But sometimes I don't get its full value when it is in a dish.

0:22:35 > 0:22:38We'll only put a little on your plate and double on Mason's, then.

0:22:38 > 0:22:39You're a pal(!)

0:22:41 > 0:22:45Leaving Tom to do what he does best, I join Mason at the bar.

0:22:45 > 0:22:49I have talked to the chef and he said he is going to do you

0:22:49 > 0:22:52- something simple in the way of a chicken.- Right.

0:22:52 > 0:22:55Here you go, gentlemen. This is my half a roast chicken.

0:22:55 > 0:22:58And this is an oak infused gravy.

0:22:58 > 0:23:01Some roasted cauliflower to go in the middle.

0:23:01 > 0:23:05- Wow.- Enjoy it.- This is a very burly chicken.- It is a burly chicken.

0:23:05 > 0:23:08- Thanks, Tom.- It is a pleasure.- It is looking great.- Enjoy it, gentlemen.

0:23:08 > 0:23:11- Army and Navy for you? - The old Army and Navy, yeah.

0:23:11 > 0:23:14I'd say pub food has changed a hell of a lot since Chamberlain came

0:23:14 > 0:23:16- through here, right, Tel?- Oh, yeah.

0:23:16 > 0:23:20When you think of the growth of the gastro pub

0:23:20 > 0:23:24and how a place like this has become two Michelin-starred...

0:23:24 > 0:23:28- Do you think the truffle makes a difference?- I don't know.

0:23:28 > 0:23:33- They don't really taste of much, do they?- No. It is the smell.

0:23:33 > 0:23:34Very good.

0:23:34 > 0:23:39This is... This lives up to Tom's incredible reputation.

0:23:48 > 0:23:52Eating well is not the only pastime for people of Marlow.

0:23:52 > 0:23:56With their riverside setting, rowing is a big part of their lives.

0:23:56 > 0:23:58- Have you ever been in a skiff? - A skiff?

0:23:58 > 0:24:01No, I've been in a dinghy with the girls when I was little in Spain.

0:24:01 > 0:24:03That'll do.

0:24:03 > 0:24:05They have got the best job, the cocks.

0:24:05 > 0:24:08Sitting there, watching all the hard work. A bit like you in this series.

0:24:08 > 0:24:11- The only problem...- You've been like the cocks of this cab,

0:24:11 > 0:24:12haven't you, really?

0:24:12 > 0:24:14There is never any need for that language.

0:24:14 > 0:24:17Stroke! Stroke! Stroke!

0:24:17 > 0:24:20MASON LAUGHS

0:24:21 > 0:24:26Marlow Rowing Club has produced Paralympian and Olympians,

0:24:26 > 0:24:30including five times gold medal winner Sir Steve Redgrave.

0:24:30 > 0:24:34Now Mason McQueen is ready to don the snug yet traditional

0:24:34 > 0:24:35rower's leotard.

0:24:35 > 0:24:38It takes a gentleman to dress like that.

0:24:38 > 0:24:39And you haven't got away with it.

0:24:39 > 0:24:41That is enough of that now.

0:24:41 > 0:24:45- Do your best with this man. Look after him.- We will.- Thank you.

0:24:45 > 0:24:49- Mason, before you get in the boat, any last words?- Tel.- Yeah.

0:24:49 > 0:24:52It has been an honour working with you.

0:24:52 > 0:24:53Resist the urge to walk the plank.

0:24:53 > 0:24:58I don't want to hear, "Mason McQueen, buried at sea."

0:24:58 > 0:25:00MASON LAUGHS

0:25:04 > 0:25:07# Jolly boating weather... #

0:25:09 > 0:25:10Go on, Mason, son.

0:25:13 > 0:25:14Can he swim?

0:25:26 > 0:25:27Gone.

0:25:27 > 0:25:29Gone.

0:25:29 > 0:25:31And never called me mother.

0:25:31 > 0:25:33While Mason works up an appetite,

0:25:33 > 0:25:37I'm heading to the kitchen to help fix up a feast for his return.

0:25:39 > 0:25:43Nicola Nuttall, and you are cooking something special.

0:25:43 > 0:25:45It's a bucket and bacon badger.

0:25:45 > 0:25:50It is a traditional suet dish which was made for the people

0:25:50 > 0:25:51who work on the land.

0:25:51 > 0:25:53Is there real badger in it?

0:25:53 > 0:25:55No. No badger.

0:25:58 > 0:26:01Nicola starts her badger with bacon.

0:26:01 > 0:26:05Some people put rashers of bacon on it, but it is not quite right.

0:26:05 > 0:26:07- You like it rough.- HESITANTLY:- Yeah.

0:26:07 > 0:26:10- It's...- Rough-cut bacon.

0:26:10 > 0:26:13My nan would either use bacon like this or she would use,

0:26:13 > 0:26:14like a lump of boiling bacon.

0:26:14 > 0:26:17- So you are following a family tradition in doing this?- Yeah, yeah.

0:26:21 > 0:26:25Literally, you do just pile everything onto it.

0:26:25 > 0:26:27You are making a big sausage roll, basically.

0:26:27 > 0:26:30You are not being pretentious about it, anyway, I'll say that for you.

0:26:30 > 0:26:34- No, no.- This is not fine dining. - This is not fine dining, no.

0:26:34 > 0:26:37Once stuffed, the badger is rolled.

0:26:37 > 0:26:39This is the moment of truth.

0:26:39 > 0:26:41Look at that. Perfectamundo.

0:26:41 > 0:26:43How long will that take to cook?

0:26:43 > 0:26:45- About three hours in the oven. - Three hours.

0:26:45 > 0:26:49But luckily for you and me, in the great old Blue Peter tradition,

0:26:49 > 0:26:52- there is a couple you made earlier, isn't there?- There is.- There is.

0:26:52 > 0:26:54Nicola hasn't stopped with boiling badger.

0:26:54 > 0:26:58In the oven, she has another local delicacy with a totally

0:26:58 > 0:27:00inappropriate name - puppy pie.

0:27:01 > 0:27:05Apparently, this is traditional fare for sweaty rowers.

0:27:06 > 0:27:09- And look at these puppy pies. - Oh, puppy pie!- You like a puppy pie?

0:27:09 > 0:27:12- It's not that one we seen earlier, is it?- What would you prefer?

0:27:12 > 0:27:14- What, badger or dog?- Yeah.

0:27:14 > 0:27:16Oh, I think I'll go for the badger, please.

0:27:16 > 0:27:17Those pies are great.

0:27:17 > 0:27:20- So what is the actual ingredient? - Traditionally, it is a rabbit pie.

0:27:20 > 0:27:23- Oh, lovely.- And it is delicious.

0:27:23 > 0:27:26- We hopped to it and we've done well, ladies, didn't we?- We did.

0:27:26 > 0:27:30- Are you sure, ladies?- Yeah.- He is a good man.- Good teamwork.- Yeah.

0:27:30 > 0:27:33Just like me and you, mate. Good teamwork.

0:27:33 > 0:27:34Put it there.

0:27:34 > 0:27:36Mason McQueen,

0:27:36 > 0:27:38sculler extraordinaire.

0:27:39 > 0:27:40To Marlow, eh?

0:27:40 > 0:27:42And I've called him worse than that.

0:27:42 > 0:27:44MASON LAUGHS

0:27:48 > 0:27:50It has been a treat, Marlow.

0:27:51 > 0:27:53But we must head on.

0:27:53 > 0:27:55Our journey doesn't end here.

0:27:55 > 0:27:58Take me to my next destination, will you?

0:27:58 > 0:28:00- As if you knew where it was.- OK.