0:00:03 > 0:00:04We're ready to go.
0:00:04 > 0:00:06Still don't know where we're going, do you?
0:00:06 > 0:00:09That depends on you and how much you put your back into it, doesn't it?
0:00:09 > 0:00:12Well, things are not too good in my career but...
0:00:12 > 0:00:15- reaching this point where I'm... - Come on. Have a go, mate. - ..pushing a black cab!
0:00:15 > 0:00:18There you go. Go on, Terence.
0:00:18 > 0:00:20Hey-hey!
0:00:24 > 0:00:27It's taken 50 years in broadcasting,
0:00:27 > 0:00:29but I've finally cracked it.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32A chance to meander around the country, see the sights,
0:00:32 > 0:00:34- meet the people... - HE LAUGHS
0:00:34 > 0:00:36..and - ah, yes, eat and drink.
0:00:36 > 0:00:39Is "melt in the mouth" a suitable phrase?
0:00:41 > 0:00:43I've hailed a cab with one of London's finest cabbies,
0:00:43 > 0:00:45Mason McQueen,
0:00:45 > 0:00:48to steer me around Britain's highways and byways...
0:00:48 > 0:00:50I'm looking forward to a decent meal, are you?
0:00:50 > 0:00:52Oh, I'm starving. I can't wait, Tel.
0:00:52 > 0:00:55Our route has been mapped out by an adventurous gourmand,
0:00:55 > 0:00:59Samuel Chamberlain, in his book British Bouquet.
0:00:59 > 0:01:02Almost 60 years later, we're following in his footsteps...
0:01:02 > 0:01:04I'll do all the work, Tel(!)
0:01:04 > 0:01:07..to seek out weird and wonderful regional British cuisine,
0:01:07 > 0:01:11and discover how our tastes have changed over the years.
0:01:11 > 0:01:13Do it right, son.
0:01:15 > 0:01:17I hope you enjoy your meal.
0:01:17 > 0:01:19I'd better, Sammy, otherwise there'll be trouble.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23- SHE LAUGHS - No pressure.- No pressure at all.
0:01:32 > 0:01:36I've put my faith in Mason's humble hackney carriage
0:01:36 > 0:01:38to take me further than it's ever been before.
0:01:43 > 0:01:45This is Scarborough,
0:01:45 > 0:01:47on the great North Yorkshire coast,
0:01:47 > 0:01:50a town that claims to be the world's first seaside resort.
0:01:51 > 0:01:53Now, this place, Mason,
0:01:53 > 0:01:56is going to be a bit above you.
0:01:56 > 0:01:59- Above your station in life. - Oh, yeah?
0:01:59 > 0:02:02"The aristocrat of coastal resorts in Yorkshire.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05"Endless attractions to the vacationist,
0:02:05 > 0:02:07"except an absolute guarantee of good weather."
0:02:07 > 0:02:09So we'll keep the old fingers crossed,
0:02:09 > 0:02:13- we've had good weather so far.- Yeah. - But something tells me...
0:02:13 > 0:02:17Well, I'M telling you that I think we're in for a bit of rain.
0:02:19 > 0:02:22When Chamberlain passed through, in the '60s,
0:02:22 > 0:02:26this was a seaside town with a hint of luxury, glamour
0:02:26 > 0:02:27and some top nosh.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31Since it was established in the tenth century
0:02:31 > 0:02:33the people of Scarborough have always looked to the sea
0:02:33 > 0:02:36for nourishment - and therefore, so shall we.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43Why don't we go down to the old fish market
0:02:43 > 0:02:46or go down by the port and have a look and see what the fishermen of England are doing?
0:02:46 > 0:02:50# The fishermen of England
0:02:50 > 0:02:53# Go down to the mighty sea... #
0:02:53 > 0:02:57First port of call, Scarborough harbour. That's quite a mouthful.
0:02:57 > 0:02:59It is.
0:02:59 > 0:03:02And don't think we won't get a mouthful...of everything.
0:03:05 > 0:03:083.38 of turbot. Three fish...
0:03:08 > 0:03:11Fish has been on the menu in Scarborough for centuries,
0:03:11 > 0:03:15and most mornings the freshest fish in town are sold at the harbour,
0:03:15 > 0:03:17straight off the boat.
0:03:17 > 0:03:2050, 60, 70, 80...
0:03:22 > 0:03:25One buyer is Giorgio, a local restaurateur,
0:03:25 > 0:03:28who's braved the rains to show us his fish.
0:03:30 > 0:03:32You were born and bred in Yorkshire, were you?
0:03:32 > 0:03:35- ITALIAN ACCENT:- Yes, you can hear from my accent.- Exactly.
0:03:35 > 0:03:36That's a true Yorkshire accent, isn't it?
0:03:36 > 0:03:39And you bought some fish here today. What have you got?
0:03:39 > 0:03:41Well, I got some monk, I got some Dover sole...
0:03:41 > 0:03:44Monkfish is an ugly old fish, isn't it? Look at that.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47People used to throw that back, didn't they?
0:03:47 > 0:03:50- Because they thought it was so ugly. - They did, they did.- And now you...
0:03:50 > 0:03:53It is beautiful. The only problem is, we use only the tail.
0:03:53 > 0:03:56- That is the only thing. - Monkfish tails.- That's right.
0:03:56 > 0:03:58I don't see any Norwegian salmon in there.
0:03:58 > 0:04:00No, no, definitely not.
0:04:00 > 0:04:02Giorgio, we wish you luck with the cooking.
0:04:02 > 0:04:04- Thank you very much. - Toss them lightly in butter.
0:04:04 > 0:04:09- Yes, yes.- Yes.- Simple the best, because the flavour is there when they're fresh.
0:04:11 > 0:04:15Those fish that aren't picked up by local restaurants
0:04:15 > 0:04:17will often find their way into the harbour-side's fish shop.
0:04:17 > 0:04:19Expertly filleted, the heads and bones
0:04:19 > 0:04:22go to make cat food and fertiliser,
0:04:22 > 0:04:25while the good stuff is sold over the counter.
0:04:29 > 0:04:31The halibut and the scallops catch my eye, Tone.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34These scallops are local caught.
0:04:34 > 0:04:36These are caught by the local scallopers
0:04:36 > 0:04:37that are working out of here at the minute.
0:04:37 > 0:04:40- Is that what they're called, scallopers?- Scallopers, yeah.
0:04:40 > 0:04:42And this, Scarborough...woof?
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- Scarborough woof, that's a catfish. - HE HOWLS LIKE A WOLF
0:04:45 > 0:04:47- Tell me about this, Tone. - Well, that's a lovely catfish.
0:04:47 > 0:04:49It is a beautiful-tasting fish.
0:04:49 > 0:04:51So that's your idea of a joke, is it?
0:04:51 > 0:04:53You've got a catfish and you call it a woof.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56Yeah. Well, I don't know how we originally got it's name,
0:04:56 > 0:04:58- Scarborough woof. - TERRY BARKS
0:04:58 > 0:05:02- Yep. But that's...- They only catch it on the full moon. TERRY LAUGHS
0:05:02 > 0:05:05It's quite a meaty fish.
0:05:05 > 0:05:07You mean it doesn't taste of anything? It's just a...
0:05:07 > 0:05:09You need a bit of a sauce to go with it.
0:05:09 > 0:05:12- It's a bit like a cod, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:05:12 > 0:05:13What's your favourite fish?
0:05:13 > 0:05:15- Halibut.- Yeah, I love a halibut. - Yep.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17You can't beat a nice bit of halibut.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24You can only look at fish for so long before you have to eat some,
0:05:24 > 0:05:26and conceding through the pangs of hunger,
0:05:26 > 0:05:29we head to the harbour-side cafe.
0:05:29 > 0:05:32- This is where it is. - Morning, ladies.- Morning, ladies.
0:05:32 > 0:05:33ALL: Good morning.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36'Renowned for its hospitality to local fisher folk,
0:05:36 > 0:05:39'Mason and I should fit right in.'
0:05:39 > 0:05:40Are these the rough crowd?
0:05:40 > 0:05:43Yeah, they're all a lovely bunch of guys.
0:05:43 > 0:05:45- Are they?- Yeah.
0:05:45 > 0:05:47Laurie there, he's a fisherman...
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- I thought his name might be Magdalene Anne. - LAUGHTER
0:05:50 > 0:05:53So, what should we have to eat? What have you got?
0:05:53 > 0:05:55We've got some lovely kippers and poached eggs.
0:05:55 > 0:05:57I suppose you don't like kippers.
0:05:57 > 0:05:59- I'll force one down. - LAUGHTER
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- You'll manage one.- And a Yorkshire pudding with his one, please, dear.
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- And a nice cup of tea for him. - A cup of tea. No problem at all.
0:06:08 > 0:06:12'For many, this small restaurant will serve their final meal
0:06:12 > 0:06:16'before braving the tempestuous swells of the great North Sea -
0:06:16 > 0:06:19'so the kippers should be spectacular.'
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- Here we go.- Look at this.- Ooh, lovely.- Kippers from Whitby...
0:06:25 > 0:06:27- Wa-hey!- Whitby kippers.
0:06:27 > 0:06:29..served with a poached egg.
0:06:29 > 0:06:30- Thank you very much.- Wow.
0:06:32 > 0:06:37- What did you just put on your fish? - Vinegar.- Oh, my God.
0:06:37 > 0:06:38The reason I've put jam and marmalade out
0:06:38 > 0:06:41is because it's supposed to stop it repeating on you
0:06:41 > 0:06:43for the rest of the day.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- So you're supposed eat something sweet afterwards.- Oh, right.- Yep.
0:06:46 > 0:06:48Never knew that.
0:06:48 > 0:06:51If I may say so, your kippers are a credit to you.
0:06:51 > 0:06:53Are they OK?
0:06:54 > 0:06:57Did you hear about the crab that went to the seafood disco?
0:06:57 > 0:06:59He pulled a MUSSEL.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03I don't get it.
0:07:03 > 0:07:05- What? - MASON LAUGHS
0:07:09 > 0:07:11As Chamberlain points out,
0:07:11 > 0:07:14Scarborough has much more to offer than just the fish.
0:07:15 > 0:07:17There's the castle,
0:07:17 > 0:07:20the golden sands - and, of course, the seaside entertainment.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26That's the way to do it!
0:07:26 > 0:07:28It's years since I've seen a Punch and Judy show.
0:07:28 > 0:07:30Oh, my poor nose.
0:07:30 > 0:07:32There's an element of violence there, isn't there?
0:07:32 > 0:07:34He's talking to you.
0:07:34 > 0:07:35Oh, hello, Punch.
0:07:35 > 0:07:37One muppet to another.
0:07:37 > 0:07:39That's the way to do it...
0:07:39 > 0:07:41Where did they go?
0:07:41 > 0:07:44- Ah! - Hey! Pleased to meet you, Terry.
0:07:44 > 0:07:46You'll be Uncle Brian.
0:07:46 > 0:07:48Scarborough's Punch and Judy man.
0:07:48 > 0:07:50Good to see you, Brian. How long have you been doing this?
0:07:50 > 0:07:53It must be 40 years ago when my father first brought me
0:07:53 > 0:07:55down onto the beach to go round with the hat for him...
0:07:55 > 0:07:57HE CLEARS HIS THROAT
0:07:57 > 0:07:59Unfortunately you find me financially...
0:07:59 > 0:08:02I'm a bit like Prince Charles, I don't carry cash.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05In the early '60s, Scarborough's beach
0:08:05 > 0:08:07would have been crammed full of holiday-makers
0:08:07 > 0:08:11expecting to catch a glimpse of this Victorian seaside tradition,
0:08:11 > 0:08:14and a mischievous peek inside the striped booth
0:08:14 > 0:08:17was as attractive then as it is now.
0:08:19 > 0:08:20HE LAUGHS
0:08:20 > 0:08:22Ah...
0:08:22 > 0:08:24Hang on. Here we go.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26Hello, Terry! Nice to see you in Scarborough.
0:08:27 > 0:08:29MASON LAUGHS
0:08:29 > 0:08:32How is it, Tel? Am I good?
0:08:32 > 0:08:33No. Rubbish.
0:08:33 > 0:08:35Hey, don't...
0:08:35 > 0:08:37No, you're destroying the reality. You look like Norman Wisdom now.
0:08:37 > 0:08:41Where do you get your passport pictures done? Is it here? THEY LAUGH
0:08:44 > 0:08:46That's hard work, Bri.
0:08:49 > 0:08:52As a reward for his epic performance,
0:08:52 > 0:08:55we're off to sample another Great British seaside tradition.
0:08:55 > 0:08:57- Do you like rock?- No.
0:08:57 > 0:08:59I mean, do you like seaside rock?
0:08:59 > 0:09:02- Not really, no.- When I was a kid, yeah, I loved it.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04'This shop has been selling rock to holiday-makers
0:09:04 > 0:09:06'on the Yorkshire coast for over 100 years.
0:09:06 > 0:09:09'Although those early confectioners may not recognise
0:09:09 > 0:09:12'the variety of colours and flavours available today.'
0:09:15 > 0:09:19Have you ever seen such a selection of rocks in all your life?
0:09:19 > 0:09:22Oh, look - I've got one for you particularly. Look.
0:09:24 > 0:09:25Very funny.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28Oh, yeah? Touche, my friend. There's one for you.
0:09:30 > 0:09:32Have at you, then!
0:09:35 > 0:09:39It seems Chamberlain didn't clock the rock at Scarborough,
0:09:39 > 0:09:41but if he had, chances are he would have been served
0:09:41 > 0:09:44by a member of Trevor Hodgson's family.
0:09:46 > 0:09:47Is there still a demand for rock,
0:09:47 > 0:09:50are there are still little chaps like me saying,
0:09:50 > 0:09:52- "I want a stick of rock?"- Certainly, everybody still wants a stick,
0:09:52 > 0:09:55it's still the cheapest gift there is.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58It's the cheapest souvenir when you come to the coast.
0:09:58 > 0:09:59That's what makes it so popular.
0:09:59 > 0:10:01Yeah, I know, but people nowadays
0:10:01 > 0:10:04tend to think that anything with sugar is bad for children.
0:10:04 > 0:10:08Ah, we've moved on from there. We're making sugar-free rock now,
0:10:08 > 0:10:10- and sugar-free dummies.- You're moving with the times, aren't you?
0:10:10 > 0:10:14Yeah, moving with the times. You have to do, you can't stand still.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18Rock isn't the only Scarborough snack on the seafront.
0:10:20 > 0:10:23You can't come to the beach and not try a little ice cream.
0:10:23 > 0:10:25Whatever the weather.
0:10:25 > 0:10:27- Isn't this amazing?- Good morning!
0:10:27 > 0:10:29- Good morning.- Morning, girls.
0:10:29 > 0:10:31- When did we last see an ice cream parlour like this?- I know.
0:10:35 > 0:10:38From the look of you, sir - you're the same colour as the counter -
0:10:38 > 0:10:40- you must be the proprietor.- I am.
0:10:40 > 0:10:43This is an ice cream parlour from my past.
0:10:43 > 0:10:46Well, this is the Harbour Bar in Scarborough.
0:10:46 > 0:10:48It's been here since 1945.
0:10:48 > 0:10:50It set up after the war.
0:10:50 > 0:10:54It's giving me that sort of sense of Scarborough, you know? Years ago.
0:10:54 > 0:10:56Our customers don't want the shop to change.
0:10:56 > 0:11:00- I don't want the shop to change. - No, it's unique.
0:11:00 > 0:11:03Even if we change the wallpaper on the ceiling, they get upset.
0:11:03 > 0:11:05But the ice cream's got better.
0:11:07 > 0:11:10'This restaurant has become a Scarborough institution.
0:11:10 > 0:11:13'But the interesting bit happens out the back,
0:11:13 > 0:11:15'where they MAKE the ice cream.'
0:11:15 > 0:11:18- What have you got here? - Well, this is a vertical freezer.
0:11:18 > 0:11:20I knew that.
0:11:20 > 0:11:22It's one of the few ice cream machines made in England, actually.
0:11:22 > 0:11:25So how much ice cream would you get through in a day?
0:11:25 > 0:11:28This is an eight-gallon freezer. We would probably erm...
0:11:28 > 0:11:31during the day, maybe,
0:11:31 > 0:11:33use this 20 times.
0:11:33 > 0:11:36It makes a very solid ice cream,
0:11:36 > 0:11:39so that when it's in the shop the girls can scoop it.
0:11:39 > 0:11:41It's nice and frozen.
0:11:41 > 0:11:44And so they can design ice cream dishes without it melting.
0:11:47 > 0:11:49This is the liquid ice cream.
0:11:49 > 0:11:51It is made up of...?
0:11:51 > 0:11:54Milk powder, milk,
0:11:54 > 0:11:56butter, double cream,
0:11:56 > 0:11:58some single cream in there,
0:11:58 > 0:12:00some glucose
0:12:00 > 0:12:04and some seaweed.
0:12:04 > 0:12:06It's the seaweed that thickens up this product.
0:12:08 > 0:12:09What's going in here?
0:12:09 > 0:12:11This is a natural colour...
0:12:13 > 0:12:16..which is made from...beetroot.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18Is this Yorkshire beetroot?
0:12:18 > 0:12:21- This is absolutely Yorkshire beetroot.- I thought so.
0:12:21 > 0:12:23And this - this is Yorkshire rhubarb.
0:12:24 > 0:12:26I see.
0:12:27 > 0:12:29Oops, sorry. Stand back.
0:12:32 > 0:12:35It's a little bit late to say that.
0:12:35 > 0:12:38Now, we'll leave that for...
0:12:38 > 0:12:4020 minutes,
0:12:40 > 0:12:43and then you get some beautiful rhubarb ice cream.
0:12:45 > 0:12:47'Having been attacked by this odd concoction
0:12:47 > 0:12:49'and despite my aversion to rhubarb,
0:12:49 > 0:12:51'I'm going to have to try some.
0:12:51 > 0:12:54'Served in the Harbour Bar's favourite dish.'
0:12:56 > 0:12:58I'm going to make you a Knickerbocker Glory.
0:12:58 > 0:13:03I know a Knickerbocker Glory, and if you make any mistake on this
0:13:03 > 0:13:05there'll be trouble.
0:13:05 > 0:13:07So a Knickerbocker Glory...
0:13:07 > 0:13:09That's the right kind of glass for a start,
0:13:09 > 0:13:10you've got to have it in a glass like that.
0:13:10 > 0:13:13So you've got your strawberry juice there...
0:13:14 > 0:13:18- ..and then you've got your vanilla ice cream.- OK...
0:13:18 > 0:13:21I used to have jelly in mine.
0:13:21 > 0:13:22Some people did, yeah.
0:13:22 > 0:13:24We HAVE jelly, if you'd like some.
0:13:24 > 0:13:26No, it's too late.
0:13:29 > 0:13:33This is rhubarb ice cream which we don't normally put in.
0:13:33 > 0:13:36Then you want some pineapples...
0:13:38 > 0:13:41- This one's got to be super.- OK...
0:13:43 > 0:13:45Then you've got your wafers.
0:13:48 > 0:13:50Now, this...
0:13:50 > 0:13:52is the finishing one - the cherry on the top.
0:13:52 > 0:13:54Ah, the coup de grace.
0:13:54 > 0:13:56THEY CHEER
0:13:59 > 0:14:00- Sir...- Do it right, son.
0:14:00 > 0:14:04- ..your Knickerbocker Glory. - That's it.- What's the straw for?
0:14:04 > 0:14:07For the juice at the bottom.
0:14:07 > 0:14:09At the bottom? You'll never get to the bottom of this.
0:14:09 > 0:14:12You can't do it without slurping.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15- That's it.- Wa-hey! There you go.
0:14:15 > 0:14:17I bypassed the rhubarb.
0:14:28 > 0:14:30Are you sick to death eating on this thing?
0:14:30 > 0:14:32Never.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34No, I didn't think you were.
0:14:34 > 0:14:37So we should be all right for the old fish and chips.
0:14:37 > 0:14:39That's what I'm looking forward to, Terry.
0:14:39 > 0:14:41Yeah, I'll bet.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44At the same time as we order the fish and chips somebody will say,
0:14:44 > 0:14:48"Would you like a little Yorkshire pudding with gravy?"
0:14:49 > 0:14:51On this culinary caravan,
0:14:51 > 0:14:54we've managed to avoid the humble chip shop,
0:14:54 > 0:14:58but this stretch of coast is the spiritual home to our national dish.
0:15:00 > 0:15:02'Chamberlain mentions a unique establishment
0:15:02 > 0:15:05'called the Tunny Club...'
0:15:05 > 0:15:08- Bit windy out there. Hello, mate. - Just a bit blowy.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- John, hi.- John. Nice to see you.
0:15:11 > 0:15:15'..which I'm told cooks up some of the best fish and chips in town.'
0:15:15 > 0:15:17- How long have you been...- Oh!
0:15:17 > 0:15:20..slaving over the old hot fat?
0:15:20 > 0:15:23Been slaving over the old fat for about 35 years I think, now.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26And it don't seem a day too much, do it(?)
0:15:26 > 0:15:28Can I just ask, are you a cod or haddock man?
0:15:28 > 0:15:31- I think cod's a bit tasteless... - OK.- ..so I like a haddock.
0:15:31 > 0:15:34Would you feel it in your heart to be able to get me a bit of haddock?
0:15:34 > 0:15:37- Absolutely, sir, no problem at all. - Good man. OK.
0:15:37 > 0:15:38Where do you hide the haddock?
0:15:38 > 0:15:42- Just inside this fish fridge here. - OK, let's have a look.- There we go.
0:15:42 > 0:15:45- Two nice pieces ready for you.- Oh!
0:15:45 > 0:15:48- So this is locally caught, is it? - It is indeed. Only the finest.
0:15:48 > 0:15:51- Just putting it into some rice flour...- Rice flour?
0:15:51 > 0:15:55..just so... It just fluffs up the batter a bit better.
0:15:55 > 0:15:57This won't take long, will it?
0:15:57 > 0:15:59No, four-and-a-half minutes.
0:15:59 > 0:16:01While this is all going on, what happens to the chips?
0:16:01 > 0:16:03Well, the chips... Then what we do,
0:16:03 > 0:16:06we par-fry them first to retain the goodness,
0:16:06 > 0:16:08and then we drop them in.
0:16:08 > 0:16:11They'll be in there for a couple of minutes.
0:16:11 > 0:16:14- CHIPS RUSTLE - So this is...?
0:16:14 > 0:16:15That's what you're listening for.
0:16:15 > 0:16:17- What, the crispiness?- Yep.
0:16:20 > 0:16:22- There we go. - That looks good enough to eat.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27With the cookery lesson over,
0:16:27 > 0:16:29we head back to the restaurant to taste the goods.
0:16:32 > 0:16:34Mason, what are you putting on your fish and chips?
0:16:34 > 0:16:37Don't start, Terry. I have vinegar on me chips.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40Nobody puts vinegar on chips or fish.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42You're in Scarborough, not St Tropez, mate.
0:16:42 > 0:16:44Only lemon on your fish. Gosh.
0:16:46 > 0:16:47Oh!
0:16:48 > 0:16:50Mason may joke, but from the 1930s
0:16:50 > 0:16:53Scarborough was an exclusive European resort -
0:16:53 > 0:16:58and stranger still, this small, unassuming room was the big draw.
0:16:58 > 0:17:02Not for its haddock, but rather its tunny, or bluefin tuna,
0:17:02 > 0:17:04and the deep sea sport of catching them.
0:17:06 > 0:17:08I never think of...
0:17:08 > 0:17:11these waters, the North Sea, having tuna.
0:17:11 > 0:17:16Well, between 1930 and 1950 there was a tuna run along the coast during August and September.
0:17:16 > 0:17:18And these fish followed the herring and mackerel
0:17:18 > 0:17:20up through from the Atlantic.
0:17:20 > 0:17:23And they came close inshore as they passed Scarborough on the way up to Scotland.
0:17:23 > 0:17:25Whilst going past, one was caught on a rod and line
0:17:25 > 0:17:28and it became a sport. So they brought all these people from...
0:17:28 > 0:17:30The great and the good used to come from
0:17:30 > 0:17:32all over the place to do this sports fishing.
0:17:32 > 0:17:35They would partake in this wonderful deep sea adventure.
0:17:35 > 0:17:38I mean, Scarborough was at that point a very fashionable resort.
0:17:39 > 0:17:43Now, it has been suggested that these denizens of the deep
0:17:43 > 0:17:45are returning to the waters here,
0:17:45 > 0:17:47but I fear the sport of fishing for them
0:17:47 > 0:17:51has been resigned to the vaults of local museum.
0:17:51 > 0:17:55- We'll head off into the basement and look at the tunny archive.- OK.
0:17:55 > 0:17:57Tunny...
0:17:59 > 0:18:02'This basement room holds some of the last remaining artefacts
0:18:02 > 0:18:05'of this dangerous sea sport.'
0:18:05 > 0:18:07- There we go.- Wow.
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- God, the weight of it. - It is really heavy,
0:18:09 > 0:18:10so you had to be really strong.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13The rules meant you had to be strapped
0:18:13 > 0:18:17to the back of a row boat, and the daring fishermen and women
0:18:17 > 0:18:19could be dragged miles from the coast
0:18:19 > 0:18:21by some of the largest fish in the North Sea.
0:18:25 > 0:18:27- Well, there's plenty of eating in that.- Wow.
0:18:27 > 0:18:31- He's a big fish.- There'll be a lot of tins in that tuna.
0:18:31 > 0:18:33So this one was caught by a chap
0:18:33 > 0:18:36called John Hedley Lewis from Lincolnshire,
0:18:36 > 0:18:40and he's nine foot six inches long
0:18:40 > 0:18:42and he weighed 852 pounds.
0:18:42 > 0:18:44That'd look nice over my fireplace.
0:18:44 > 0:18:46Yeah.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49- If I had a fireplace...- Have you got a room big enough for that?
0:18:50 > 0:18:52'Risking life and limb for a big fish
0:18:52 > 0:18:55'is not my idea of relaxation, so
0:18:55 > 0:18:57'leaving the coast behind, we're heading into
0:18:57 > 0:19:01'the North Yorkshire Moors for something a little more tranquil.'
0:19:03 > 0:19:06So, Tel, we've left Scar-bados.
0:19:06 > 0:19:08HE LAUGHS Did you enjoy that?
0:19:08 > 0:19:12- IN FAUX YORKSHIRE ACCENTS: Fresh air.- Fresh air and fun.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- I'm going to be frank with you, Mason...- Go on.
0:19:15 > 0:19:17Much as I enjoy your company,
0:19:17 > 0:19:19I'm getting a bit bounced around here
0:19:19 > 0:19:21in the back of this taxi.
0:19:21 > 0:19:23You won't take offence, will you?
0:19:23 > 0:19:27I thought I might take an alternative mode of transport.
0:19:29 > 0:19:32I'm trading in Mason's cab for the glamour of steam.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38Scarborough's development as a seaside town
0:19:38 > 0:19:41relied upon the railways - not only for getting the fresh fish out,
0:19:41 > 0:19:45but also getting all the fresh tourists in.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47Do you know,
0:19:47 > 0:19:50you're a very, very fine fellow,
0:19:50 > 0:19:52and I'm terribly sorry you can't join me on this train.
0:19:52 > 0:19:54See ya, Tel.
0:19:54 > 0:19:56I'll miss ya!
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- Have the engine turning over when I get back.- Your Lord.
0:20:03 > 0:20:05HORN TOOTS
0:20:11 > 0:20:14This is the North Yorkshire Moors Railway.
0:20:14 > 0:20:17And having never been on the Moors before,
0:20:17 > 0:20:19I'm looking forward to the view.
0:20:21 > 0:20:24I heard there's a chance for a light bite -
0:20:24 > 0:20:25better find out what's cooking.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32- You'll be Sammy Sykes?- I am.
0:20:32 > 0:20:34- Put it there.- Nice to meet you.
0:20:34 > 0:20:35This ain't easy for you, is it?
0:20:35 > 0:20:38- No...- Tiny little compartment like this.- It's not.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40- It gets so hot in the summer... - Yeah.
0:20:40 > 0:20:43..and obviously you can see there's not a lot of space.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46Do you like the excitement of this, and everything lurching back and forward?
0:20:46 > 0:20:48- Oh, yeah, it's an experience, definitely.- Yeah.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51I love it. It's amazing on here. We're all like a big family as well.
0:20:51 > 0:20:54So what are you doing for them today?
0:20:54 > 0:20:56Today we've got roast beef on the menu, and...
0:20:56 > 0:20:58- Is that a Yorkshire pudding?- Yeah.
0:20:59 > 0:21:01- Why?- I thought it might be.
0:21:01 > 0:21:03SHE LAUGHS
0:21:03 > 0:21:05So how many people are you catering for today, Sally?
0:21:05 > 0:21:07Today we've got 83 on, but we hold 109.
0:21:07 > 0:21:10It's great to see so many people here -
0:21:10 > 0:21:12OBVIOUSLY...your cooking is making a difference.
0:21:12 > 0:21:15Obviously. Obviously everyone loves it.
0:21:15 > 0:21:16I'm looking forward to trying it.
0:21:16 > 0:21:18- Good.- Sammy...- Thank you.- Thank you.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26While my dinner is squeezed out of Sammy's kitchen...
0:21:26 > 0:21:27Yep...
0:21:29 > 0:21:33..I'm taking in the scenery with the railway's managing director,
0:21:33 > 0:21:36Philip Benham.
0:21:36 > 0:21:38- There you are.- Thank you very much.
0:21:38 > 0:21:40Thank you. Thank you.
0:21:40 > 0:21:43You can't, apparently, have a meal in this county without pudding.
0:21:43 > 0:21:47I think Yorkshire pudding comes with most things, as you can see.
0:21:47 > 0:21:50So this is train cuisine
0:21:50 > 0:21:52as it should be, as it was,
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- but is no longer?- Absolutely.
0:21:55 > 0:21:58The first dining train was actually in 1879,
0:21:58 > 0:22:01and that was in this county, it was from Leeds to London,
0:22:01 > 0:22:05and it really reached its peak in the 1920s and '30s.
0:22:05 > 0:22:07Of course it took a lot longer in those days
0:22:07 > 0:22:10to get from one place to another. You could have...
0:22:10 > 0:22:14Maybe you'd have lunch on the train and then there was time for high tea as well.
0:22:14 > 0:22:16- So it's quite a leisurely experience.- All the more gracious.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- Everything's been sacrificed in the name of speed.- Yes.
0:22:23 > 0:22:24As my tribute to Yorkshire...
0:22:24 > 0:22:26TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS
0:22:26 > 0:22:28..and the train agrees,
0:22:28 > 0:22:31I'm having a little Yorkshire pudding.
0:22:33 > 0:22:35Who said they didn't like Yorkshire pudding?
0:22:35 > 0:22:38You don't get many people saying that here.
0:22:38 > 0:22:39Well, they're afraid to,
0:22:39 > 0:22:42- they'd be drummed out of Yorkshire if they said it.- Well...
0:22:44 > 0:22:46TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS
0:22:47 > 0:22:51With my tour of the North Yorkshire Moors coming to a close,
0:22:51 > 0:22:52it's good to see a familiar face.
0:22:54 > 0:22:56The poor little fella must be starving.
0:23:00 > 0:23:03- Thank God you stayed.- Terry... - I was sick with worry.
0:23:03 > 0:23:05How was it?
0:23:05 > 0:23:08I'm still shaking a bit, but it was great.
0:23:08 > 0:23:09Yorkshire pudding?
0:23:09 > 0:23:11- I ate it.- You ate it?
0:23:11 > 0:23:12Didn't eat it all, but I had a bit of it.
0:23:12 > 0:23:14I'm proud of ya. I really am.
0:23:14 > 0:23:15With the gravy.
0:23:15 > 0:23:16Army and Navy as well?
0:23:16 > 0:23:20Do you know, the gravy - you could trot a mouse across that gravy.
0:23:20 > 0:23:22Well done.
0:23:31 > 0:23:33So, where are we going now?
0:23:33 > 0:23:36- Scarborough Fair. - Oh, well, here we go. You ready?
0:23:36 > 0:23:38And you've heard that song a few times.
0:23:38 > 0:23:42# Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme... #
0:23:42 > 0:23:45Simon and Garfunkel, yeah?
0:23:45 > 0:23:47I actually wrote the song and they stole it from me.
0:23:50 > 0:23:54Scarborough Fair was an annual 45-day medieval festival
0:23:54 > 0:23:57that began in the 13th century.
0:23:57 > 0:23:59Today, the name has been adopted by a local collection
0:23:59 > 0:24:02of steam engines and fairground attractions.
0:24:07 > 0:24:10- Ever seen a place like this in your life?- I love it, Tel.
0:24:10 > 0:24:13- It's extraordinary. - What a collection.
0:24:13 > 0:24:16'While the fair that Simon and Garfunkel sung about
0:24:16 > 0:24:17'is no longer with us,
0:24:17 > 0:24:21'its namesake does hold another very traditional Scarborough event.'
0:24:24 > 0:24:27It's a "the dansant" - a dancing tea.
0:24:28 > 0:24:31Let us go in there and see these people, shall we?
0:24:33 > 0:24:36'Time to show those Northerners how to move.'
0:24:40 > 0:24:42Lovely.
0:24:46 > 0:24:48We move... Don't we move well?
0:24:48 > 0:24:50MASON GIGGLES
0:24:53 > 0:24:56With Mason's twinkling toes leading the way,
0:24:56 > 0:24:58we find the man behind the music - Michael Carr.
0:25:00 > 0:25:03Michael, you're playing the mighty Wurlitzer like a thing possessed.
0:25:03 > 0:25:05Thank you very much indeed. Thank you.
0:25:05 > 0:25:08- It's a Yorkshire tradition, the dancing tea.- Yes.
0:25:08 > 0:25:10There's dancing, and then in the interval
0:25:10 > 0:25:13you can have coffee, tea and a nice piece of cake.
0:25:13 > 0:25:17- Well, we've done the dancing... - We've earned it. - ..we deserve a bit of cake.
0:25:19 > 0:25:22I know that Yorkshire people are proud of their pudding,
0:25:22 > 0:25:27but it seems they're pretty pleased with their cake as well.
0:25:27 > 0:25:30And there's no better person to ask than local cake maestro
0:25:30 > 0:25:31Maggie Barrowclough.
0:25:33 > 0:25:36- That's a courting cake. - A courting cake?
0:25:36 > 0:25:40Yeah - traditionally given by young girls to their betrothed.
0:25:40 > 0:25:43I see. Well, unfortunately I'm married...
0:25:43 > 0:25:45- I'm married 50 years this year. - Oh, dear.
0:25:45 > 0:25:48So I'm a far cry away from a courting cake.
0:25:48 > 0:25:49I thought it was called courting cake
0:25:49 > 0:25:52cos you wouldn't go out after eating all that and...
0:25:52 > 0:25:55SHE LAUGHS ..you're going to get friendly.
0:25:55 > 0:25:57Oh... That's a credit to you.
0:25:59 > 0:26:01What is it about Yorkshire and cake?
0:26:01 > 0:26:04I mean, I know about Yorkshire and rhubarb
0:26:04 > 0:26:06and Yorkshire and pudding...
0:26:06 > 0:26:08and all the other stuff.
0:26:08 > 0:26:10But Yorkshire and cake?
0:26:10 > 0:26:12People obviously from the working industry
0:26:12 > 0:26:13needed to get together...
0:26:13 > 0:26:16and have big teas like this I suppose,
0:26:16 > 0:26:18and just enjoy themselves.
0:26:18 > 0:26:22- Yeah, socialise.- Socialise, cos there wasn't, you know,
0:26:22 > 0:26:24a great deal of happiness in going down a mine
0:26:24 > 0:26:27so if they could get to a big spread like this on occasion...
0:26:27 > 0:26:30- So the Welsh...- ..it was a way for all of the community...
0:26:30 > 0:26:33- ..the Welsh would go down in nine, come out, burst into song...- Yeah.
0:26:33 > 0:26:36- ..the Yorkshire people would go down a mine...- Eat cake! - ..come back and bake a cake.
0:26:36 > 0:26:39And they'd do it very well.
0:26:39 > 0:26:42- We manage it.- Mmm...
0:26:44 > 0:26:47I love a bit of fruit cake with a cup of tea.
0:26:47 > 0:26:50In Yorkshire, we like our fruit cake with cheese.
0:26:52 > 0:26:55- Oh...!- That good?- Good combination.
0:26:57 > 0:26:58This is a Grosmont tart.
0:26:58 > 0:27:00- A what?- A Grosmont tart.
0:27:00 > 0:27:02Grosmont. What does that mean?
0:27:02 > 0:27:05- It's where we live.- Silly question. - Yes, it is. I'm sorry.
0:27:05 > 0:27:07Excuse me, I have to...
0:27:08 > 0:27:10Excuse us.
0:27:10 > 0:27:11Mm-mm-mmm.
0:27:15 > 0:27:18'Now, the people of Scarborough may seem a temperate bunch,
0:27:18 > 0:27:21'but show them a table of cake
0:27:21 > 0:27:23'and it's every man for himself!'
0:27:23 > 0:27:25Is somebody eating my cake here?
0:27:25 > 0:27:30Yes. Sorry. Sorry about that. We're going to enjoy it.
0:27:30 > 0:27:34- That my bit of frangipani. - Oh, is it?- Yeah. Honestly...
0:27:42 > 0:27:44I don't think I could eat any more cake.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47Do you want more?
0:27:47 > 0:27:48Just one more piece, sir?
0:27:48 > 0:27:50HE LAUGHS
0:27:50 > 0:27:53- Get it down you, son! - That's good.- Yeah.
0:27:53 > 0:27:55'Scuse the fingers.
0:27:55 > 0:27:58I'm glad we came now, are you?
0:27:58 > 0:28:00Oh, yeah.
0:28:00 > 0:28:01Where do we go next?
0:28:01 > 0:28:03I'm going to need a sit down, I think, before we go anywhere.
0:28:03 > 0:28:05Yeah. And a nice cup of tea. Let me...
0:28:05 > 0:28:08Come with me, I'll get you a cup of tea.