0:00:02 > 0:00:03- BOTH:- Whoo-hoo!
0:00:03 > 0:00:05'The Hairy Bikers are back on the road...'
0:00:05 > 0:00:07Hey-hey!
0:00:07 > 0:00:08'..doing what we love most.
0:00:08 > 0:00:10'Biking and cooking.'
0:00:10 > 0:00:12Oh-ho-ho-ho!
0:00:12 > 0:00:13Look at that!
0:00:13 > 0:00:15'And it's going to be epic.
0:00:15 > 0:00:19'This time, we're heading the furthest north we've ever been...'
0:00:19 > 0:00:20We're in the Arctic Circle!
0:00:20 > 0:00:22'..in search of exciting food
0:00:22 > 0:00:25'and some of the most unexplored places in Europe.'
0:00:25 > 0:00:27Oh, it's glorious!
0:00:28 > 0:00:33'Our route will take us 2,500 miles round the Baltic Sea...
0:00:33 > 0:00:35'..kicking off in Poland,
0:00:35 > 0:00:39'then travelling through the trio of Baltic States to Russia.
0:00:39 > 0:00:40'Russia!
0:00:40 > 0:00:44'Then across to Finland, and north to south through Sweden.
0:00:44 > 0:00:48'To understand the food, we must EXPOSE ourselves
0:00:48 > 0:00:50'to the elements,
0:00:50 > 0:00:53'experience life on the wild side...'
0:00:53 > 0:00:54I am a Viking!
0:00:54 > 0:00:56'..and test our mettle to the max.'
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- Hey, it's cold. - It's the Baltic, isn't it?
0:00:59 > 0:01:01'I'm expecting vast forests,
0:01:01 > 0:01:03'sparkling lakes...'
0:01:03 > 0:01:05- BOTH:- Aw...
0:01:05 > 0:01:07'..and incredible biking roads.'
0:01:07 > 0:01:08Look at that!
0:01:08 > 0:01:10'There will be hearty home cooking
0:01:10 > 0:01:13'as well as cutting-edge cuisine.'
0:01:13 > 0:01:14That's spot on.
0:01:14 > 0:01:16'And hopefully a warm welcome.'
0:01:17 > 0:01:21'After all, these people are our northern neighbours.
0:01:21 > 0:01:25'And it's time we got to know them better.'
0:01:26 > 0:01:28Our lives are never going to be the same again
0:01:28 > 0:01:30- after we taste this sausage. - Cheers, mate.
0:01:39 > 0:01:42We're in the Baltic States and, here,
0:01:42 > 0:01:44we've got three for the price of one.
0:01:44 > 0:01:47That's right, mate - Lithuania, Latvia...
0:01:47 > 0:01:49..and Estonia.
0:01:49 > 0:01:52They used to be part of the Soviet Union
0:01:52 > 0:01:55and weren't on the holiday radar for us Brits.
0:01:55 > 0:01:59Oh, mate, it's gorgeous. Absolutely gorgeous.
0:01:59 > 0:02:02Now, they're free, but we still don't know them like we should.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05You only think of Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia
0:02:05 > 0:02:07as part of the Eurovision Song Contest.
0:02:07 > 0:02:09Yeah, that and stag parties.
0:02:09 > 0:02:13So, let's crack on and find out what they're all about.
0:02:14 > 0:02:16Starting on the beaches of Lithuania,
0:02:16 > 0:02:19we'll be biking through its rural heartland...
0:02:19 > 0:02:23..before crossing into Latvia and heading up to Riga.
0:02:23 > 0:02:27Then it's nearly 200 miles north to the Estonian island of Muhu,
0:02:27 > 0:02:29a foodie's paradise...
0:02:29 > 0:02:32..before ending in the capital, Tallinn.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36I've got high hopes for this road trip.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40Flipping heck, Dave, look at this!
0:02:40 > 0:02:43'From lunch in old-school Communist canteens...'
0:02:43 > 0:02:45- That's not potato?! - It's pork!- Oh, get in!
0:02:45 > 0:02:49'..to meeting the next generation of world-class chefs.
0:02:50 > 0:02:52'We unearth the best of Baltic food...'
0:02:52 > 0:02:54It doesn't get any better, does it?
0:02:54 > 0:02:56'We hit the highway to freedom...'
0:02:56 > 0:03:00There's more testosterone on this beach than a rutting bull. Rrr-rr!
0:03:00 > 0:03:02'And lose our hearts...'
0:03:02 > 0:03:03Do you like motorcycles?
0:03:03 > 0:03:07'..to this beguiling trio of Baltic countries.'
0:03:07 > 0:03:10I keep having to pinch myself that I'm in Estonia.
0:03:10 > 0:03:12Oh, it's glorious!
0:03:21 > 0:03:24We're starting our trip on the Curonian Spit,
0:03:24 > 0:03:26a 60-mile-long sand dune.
0:03:26 > 0:03:30The bottom part is the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad.
0:03:30 > 0:03:33And the top part's Lithuanian. That's where we are!
0:03:33 > 0:03:37It's not what I expected from a great Eastern Bloc country.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40You could be in the Mediterranean in the spring, couldn't you?
0:03:40 > 0:03:42I mean, look at it, it's beautiful.
0:03:42 > 0:03:45Do you know it's a UNESCO World Heritage site?
0:03:45 > 0:03:46I'm not surprised, it's gorgeous.
0:03:46 > 0:03:49What a great day to start our adventure.
0:03:57 > 0:03:59This is the Parnidzio Dune.
0:03:59 > 0:04:02From here, you can see the sun rising over the Curonian Lagoon
0:04:02 > 0:04:04and setting in the Baltic Sea.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10Whoo-hoo!
0:04:11 > 0:04:15Let's get down to my two favourite pastimes -
0:04:15 > 0:04:17planning and pastries!
0:04:17 > 0:04:19Aye, I'm ready for me first taste of Lithuania!
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- Baltic buns...- Ooh. - ..from the bakery down the road.
0:04:24 > 0:04:26I got a surprise.
0:04:26 > 0:04:28THEY LAUGH
0:04:28 > 0:04:30Oh, I got the shock of my life, there!
0:04:30 > 0:04:32I just ripped me bun up and found a sausage!
0:04:32 > 0:04:34Bread surprise!
0:04:34 > 0:04:37SI SNIGGERS
0:04:40 > 0:04:41Eat it!
0:04:41 > 0:04:43I was going to point with it!
0:04:43 > 0:04:45Oh, well, we're here.
0:04:45 > 0:04:47We're literally just on the Russian border.
0:04:47 > 0:04:50- Yeah, look, you see that spit over there, Dave?- Aye.
0:04:50 > 0:04:51That is Russia.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- There's all sorts of little treasures here.- There is.
0:04:54 > 0:04:55What a road trip.
0:04:55 > 0:04:57It's doesn't get much better than this.
0:04:57 > 0:04:59I think the food could get a bit better than this,
0:04:59 > 0:05:01if I'm perfectly frank and honest.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04It's got a sense of humour, if nothing else!
0:05:04 > 0:05:06It's made me laugh!
0:05:09 > 0:05:12Enough, Kingy, let's get serious about Lithuanian food.
0:05:12 > 0:05:15We're meeting a couple of locals
0:05:15 > 0:05:18who are more than qualified to fill us in.
0:05:18 > 0:05:21- Oh, there they are.- Where? They're in the water
0:05:21 > 0:05:23Man! Oh, you're joking!
0:05:23 > 0:05:24Shh-shh!
0:05:24 > 0:05:26Watch that log, you'll trip.
0:05:26 > 0:05:30'Einaras and his mate Saulis run a hotel and campsite,
0:05:30 > 0:05:34'and like most guys here, spend their spare time fishing.
0:05:34 > 0:05:36'I hope they're fishing for lunch.'
0:05:36 > 0:05:38I wonder if they've got anything.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45- Come on, Kingy, are you a man or a mouse?- Mouse.
0:05:45 > 0:05:47Right, let's go get the cheese.
0:05:47 > 0:05:48Oh, man.
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- Give us a pull.- What's happened? - Me boots.- Oh.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56'I never expected this to be the first challenge of the trip.
0:05:56 > 0:05:59'I mean, we're hardly dressed for the beach, are we?'
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- Agh!- Oh, sorry!
0:06:02 > 0:06:03- Go on.- Thank you.
0:06:03 > 0:06:07- Right, come on, let's be bold, let's be Lithuanian!- Right.
0:06:07 > 0:06:10Not look like a pair of effeminate Northerners.
0:06:10 > 0:06:13THEY SHRIEK AND GASP
0:06:16 > 0:06:18Hey, it's cold.
0:06:18 > 0:06:20Well, it's the Baltic, isn't it?!
0:06:20 > 0:06:23- Come in, lads, let's have a chat. - Let's have a cup of tea.
0:06:25 > 0:06:28- I can't feel anything I'm supposed to feel.- Ohh.
0:06:28 > 0:06:31'We've been invited to meet Einaras's parents
0:06:31 > 0:06:35'and sample some traditional Lithuanian fare.
0:06:35 > 0:06:37'I'll race you back to theirs, Dave.
0:06:37 > 0:06:39'Save some for me, Kingy.
0:06:42 > 0:06:46'Lunch is the perfect time to pick their brains about Lithuanian food.
0:06:46 > 0:06:50'Good idea, but remember, less talking, more eating!'
0:06:50 > 0:06:52Well, how beautiful is this?
0:06:52 > 0:06:55Lithuanian table with a lovely Lithuanian family,
0:06:55 > 0:06:57oh, it's marvellous.
0:06:57 > 0:06:59- It's a world of smoky fish.- It is.
0:06:59 > 0:07:00So what fish is that?
0:07:00 > 0:07:02- It's a halibut.- That's a halibut.
0:07:02 > 0:07:06- And that's...- Perch.- A perch? - Ah!- And this is a bream.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09What else can we expect from Lithuania?
0:07:09 > 0:07:11Cepelinai, saltibarsciai...
0:07:11 > 0:07:13- A lot of potatoes. - A lot of potatoes.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15So we can expect to eat potatoes.
0:07:15 > 0:07:18So fish sometimes changes our potatoes to the better way.
0:07:18 > 0:07:20THEY LAUGH
0:07:20 > 0:07:22That's true, actually.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25I don't mean to be rude, but can we eat? I'm starving.
0:07:25 > 0:07:26Of course, no problem, let's eat.
0:07:26 > 0:07:30'Lithuania became independent in 1990.
0:07:30 > 0:07:32'Before then, under Soviet rule,
0:07:32 > 0:07:34'food was scarce but people living on the spit
0:07:34 > 0:07:38'were lucky to have a plentiful supply of fish.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40'And it's obviously still a favourite.'
0:07:40 > 0:07:43That is perfectly smoked but still moist, Dave.
0:07:43 > 0:07:45It's lovely, isn't it?
0:07:45 > 0:07:47- This is the halibut.- Yes.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- My father said that this is the best fish.- It's less bones.
0:07:51 > 0:07:56- Yes. Less bones.- Thank you.- For a lazybones, it's easier to eat.
0:07:56 > 0:07:59A lazybones fish!
0:07:59 > 0:08:00A lazybones fish.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02It's very different food, isn't it?
0:08:02 > 0:08:05It's different to what we're used to.
0:08:05 > 0:08:08'Another staple in this part of the world is black bread,
0:08:08 > 0:08:10'which is eaten with every meal.'
0:08:10 > 0:08:13'Aye, Si, what a baguette is to a Frenchman,
0:08:13 > 0:08:15'black bread is to a Lithuanian!'
0:08:15 > 0:08:20Black bread is very, very important to us, it came from ancient times.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24- Yes?- We usually call it, like, a daily bread.
0:08:24 > 0:08:27If you drop it, you've got to pick it up and...kiss it?
0:08:27 > 0:08:29- That's right.- Is it?- Yeah.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32'Sitting here so relaxed with these folk,
0:08:32 > 0:08:34'it's easy to forget the tense times
0:08:34 > 0:08:37'the people of the Baltic States have endured.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40'But in 1989, they rebelled against the Soviet regime
0:08:40 > 0:08:42'in a remarkable show of resistance
0:08:42 > 0:08:45'that became known as the Baltic Chain.'
0:08:45 > 0:08:47How did the Chain, the Baltic Chain,
0:08:47 > 0:08:50where everybody joined hands to hands, how did that come about?
0:08:50 > 0:08:52- I've got a clip on me phone, Si. - Have you?
0:08:52 > 0:08:55- You get an idea of the scale of it, look.- Oh, wonderful!
0:08:55 > 0:08:57- NEWS REPORT:- 'It's exactly 50 years
0:08:57 > 0:08:59'since the treaty that led to the once-sovereign Baltic States
0:08:59 > 0:09:02'being taken over by the Soviet Union,
0:09:02 > 0:09:05'and here, that means a day of mourning.'
0:09:05 > 0:09:08'During World War II, a secret pact between Hitler and Stalin
0:09:08 > 0:09:12'handed Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia to the Russians.'
0:09:12 > 0:09:14'..they held hands and sang...'
0:09:16 > 0:09:18THEY SING
0:09:21 > 0:09:25'Two million people stretched over almost 400 miles
0:09:25 > 0:09:28'crossing the border from Lithuania into Latvia,
0:09:28 > 0:09:30'and from Latvia into Estonia.'
0:09:30 > 0:09:34'Every one of our hosts today took part in this show of unity,
0:09:34 > 0:09:36'aimed at bringing the world's attention
0:09:36 > 0:09:38'to their fight for independence.'
0:09:38 > 0:09:41- Have you got any photographs? - Yes.- Oh, you have?
0:09:41 > 0:09:44SI LAUGHS
0:09:44 > 0:09:46You have hair!
0:09:46 > 0:09:49Same face, different hair.
0:09:49 > 0:09:50Same face, same face.
0:09:50 > 0:09:54Did it feel like an important thing to do at the time?
0:09:54 > 0:09:57HE SPEAKS LITHUANIAN
0:10:00 > 0:10:05During that time, not just a couple or small group of people
0:10:05 > 0:10:07wanted to live life in a different way,
0:10:07 > 0:10:10but everybody wanted to do that
0:10:10 > 0:10:13and they wanted to see another life, to feel freedom,
0:10:13 > 0:10:18and actually they didn't know what is this freedom, but they wanted it.
0:10:18 > 0:10:22So, really, the Second World War didn't end for you guys
0:10:22 > 0:10:25- until the early '90s?- You didn't get your freedom until the '90s?
0:10:25 > 0:10:29But now we can tell a lot of jokes about that time.
0:10:29 > 0:10:32Do you know, this has been a wonderful first feast
0:10:32 > 0:10:35in Lithuania. Do you know, if the food carries on like this,
0:10:35 > 0:10:38- I think we have found something very special, Si.- So do I, mate,
0:10:38 > 0:10:40in the hope that we find much more to come.
0:10:40 > 0:10:42Thank you so much for your hospitality.
0:10:42 > 0:10:46- Thank you.- You're welcome. - Thank you very much.- Thank you.
0:10:46 > 0:10:48Bye! Thank you!
0:10:48 > 0:10:51Thanks a lot! Bye! Thank you. Bye!
0:10:58 > 0:11:00What lovely folk, weren't they?
0:11:00 > 0:11:02Fab. Absolutely fab.
0:11:02 > 0:11:04That fish was delicious.
0:11:04 > 0:11:06It's a proper road trip, this one, isn't it?
0:11:06 > 0:11:08It is, it's lush.
0:11:08 > 0:11:11We're not just travelling through a trio of countries.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14We're going to be riding parts of the Baltic Chain.
0:11:16 > 0:11:18I've got tingles all over!
0:11:18 > 0:11:22I know, dude. Can you imagine it? Riding a revolution!
0:11:24 > 0:11:26To get a full picture of the food here,
0:11:26 > 0:11:28we're starting with the past
0:11:28 > 0:11:32and heading inland to the heartland of Lithuania.
0:11:32 > 0:11:36This is an old-style Communist workers' canteen, or valgykla.
0:11:36 > 0:11:39They're a dying breed, but worth hunting out.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- Well, it looks quite austere. - Doesn't it?
0:11:45 > 0:11:47'But with freedom comes choice,
0:11:47 > 0:11:50'so the valgyklas are not as busy as they used to be.'
0:11:50 > 0:11:51Oh, it's lush!
0:11:51 > 0:11:53Look! Hello!
0:11:53 > 0:11:58This has to be real old-school traditional Lithuanian grub.
0:11:58 > 0:11:59Well, I think, as well,
0:11:59 > 0:12:02it kind of harks back to that Communist thing, as well,
0:12:02 > 0:12:05- doesn't it?- Yeah.- You know, big collectives, big workforce,
0:12:05 > 0:12:07need fed - here we go!
0:12:07 > 0:12:10What a treat. Kingy, take your plastic tray.
0:12:10 > 0:12:12Oh, get in. You see, this is proper, this.
0:12:12 > 0:12:16- What colour pop do you want, pink or red?- Red.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18Communist!
0:12:18 > 0:12:20It's like jelly pop.
0:12:21 > 0:12:23Ooh.
0:12:23 > 0:12:25'Right, mate, let's fill our boots.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27'Right-o.'
0:12:27 > 0:12:28Black bread.
0:12:28 > 0:12:31- I've got to have that. Do you want a bit?- Of course I do.
0:12:31 > 0:12:33Oh, looks good.
0:12:34 > 0:12:36- Is that potato?- Yes.
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- Yes? Is that potato?- Yes.
0:12:39 > 0:12:41- Is that potato?- Yes.- Yes.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44- That's potato soup!- Potato(?)
0:12:45 > 0:12:47I sense a theme coming along here, Kingy.
0:12:47 > 0:12:50I do! Do you think this is one of those...
0:12:50 > 0:12:52- BOTH:- Potato sausage!
0:12:52 > 0:12:53- BOTH:- Ooh!
0:12:53 > 0:12:55Oh, what are they? Is that meat?
0:12:55 > 0:12:57- Is that... - HE IMITATES A PIG
0:12:57 > 0:12:59It's not potato?!
0:12:59 > 0:13:02- It's pork! - Oh, get in, it's not potato!
0:13:02 > 0:13:03Ah, I see!
0:13:03 > 0:13:06It would be nothing without potato.
0:13:06 > 0:13:08THEY LAUGH
0:13:08 > 0:13:09Eee, brilliant.
0:13:09 > 0:13:11'Oh, we've hit the potato mother lode!
0:13:11 > 0:13:15'It's clear that years of food shortages have made people
0:13:15 > 0:13:18'really resourceful in what they do with the humble spud.'
0:13:18 > 0:13:19Eight euro...
0:13:19 > 0:13:23That's £5.50, £6 for all that food.
0:13:23 > 0:13:26Listen to this, Kingy. Lithuanian.
0:13:26 > 0:13:27Aciu!
0:13:27 > 0:13:29- Prasom. Prasom.- Aciu!
0:13:29 > 0:13:32- What, have you caught a cold, or something?- No, aciu!
0:13:32 > 0:13:36It's like... It's not a sneeze, it's "thank you" in Lithuanian.
0:13:36 > 0:13:39- Is it? Well, that's easy to remember, isn't it?- 'Tis.
0:13:39 > 0:13:40- Aciu!- Aciu!
0:13:40 > 0:13:42Prasom.
0:13:42 > 0:13:43- Prasom.- That means "welcome".
0:13:43 > 0:13:45- This is brilliant.- Fantastic. - We're fluent!
0:13:45 > 0:13:48I can't even lift this up, it's so heavy.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- I'll tell you what, this is a lunch to build tractors after.- It is!
0:13:52 > 0:13:55'The Communist idea of workers taking lunch breaks together
0:13:55 > 0:13:57'wasn't just a means of feeding people
0:13:57 > 0:14:01'but of bringing a collective mind-set to the workplace.'
0:14:01 > 0:14:04It's quite important for people to sit down together that work together.
0:14:04 > 0:14:07- Yes.- Because a workforce that communicates together
0:14:07 > 0:14:10is going to be a successful workforce, I guess.
0:14:10 > 0:14:12- People need a break.- Mm-hm.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15Maybe the Communist idea of being able to feed the workforce
0:14:15 > 0:14:18and giving everybody a break was kind of better in a way
0:14:18 > 0:14:20than the so-called freedom that we have.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22Exactly. And is that freedom?
0:14:22 > 0:14:25- Hmm.- Oh, I don't know.- Hmm.
0:14:25 > 0:14:28- Do you know what you could call this place?- What?
0:14:28 > 0:14:30The spud-you-like-a-very-much!
0:14:30 > 0:14:31Hey!
0:14:33 > 0:14:37I hope the suspension can take the weight of our lunch, Kingy.
0:14:37 > 0:14:39I feel like a sack of tatties.
0:14:40 > 0:14:43We're heading northwards towards Latvia
0:14:43 > 0:14:47but first, we want to stop at a place we've heard a lot about.
0:14:47 > 0:14:51It's a monument to Lithuania's predominantly Catholic faith
0:14:51 > 0:14:55and a powerful symbol of the people's resistance to oppression.
0:14:57 > 0:14:59And in the battle against Communist rule,
0:14:59 > 0:15:02rebellion comes in, well, all shapes and sizes.
0:15:05 > 0:15:07How many crosses do you think there are here?
0:15:07 > 0:15:10There's got to be hundreds and hundreds of thousands.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13There's got to be way over 100,000, Kingy.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16'This is the Hill of Crosses.
0:15:18 > 0:15:22'The first crosses were erected in the days of Imperial Russia
0:15:22 > 0:15:26'to commemorate those killed in a bloody uprising against the Tsar.'
0:15:28 > 0:15:30The scale, some of the crosses are gigantic,
0:15:30 > 0:15:34some are tiny, like little crucifixes from people's necks.
0:15:34 > 0:15:38I mean, look at this one, so simple.
0:15:38 > 0:15:42All the bikers' ones. Made out of motorcycle chains!
0:15:42 > 0:15:44'When the Communists outlawed religion,
0:15:44 > 0:15:48'this place became a visible symbol of resistance.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52'The KGB even sent in bulldozers to flatten the site - twice.'
0:15:52 > 0:15:55- But people would come and hide in the woods...- Aye.
0:15:55 > 0:15:57..and every night, they'd get past the guards
0:15:57 > 0:16:01- and they'd put their crosses up. - Yeah, and by the 1960s,
0:16:01 > 0:16:03there was up to 2,500 crosses here.
0:16:03 > 0:16:05I just think that's amazing.
0:16:05 > 0:16:07It's a revolution, isn't it? It's a revolution of the heart.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10It is a revolution of the heart, mate.
0:16:10 > 0:16:12The thing is, where are we going to put our crosses?
0:16:12 > 0:16:13I'm not entirely sure, dude.
0:16:13 > 0:16:16What about down there? There's little places down there.
0:16:16 > 0:16:19Let's go this way, man, see what this is like, down here.
0:16:21 > 0:16:23'After independence,
0:16:23 > 0:16:26'the site was visited by Pope John Paul II, no less.'
0:16:28 > 0:16:30What about this spot down here, Si?
0:16:30 > 0:16:32Kind of nice and humble and...
0:16:32 > 0:16:34- Oh, yes, this is nice, mate. Yeah.- It is, isn't it?
0:16:34 > 0:16:36Nice lovely flowers and nice colours.
0:16:36 > 0:16:38Go on, mate. Who's yours for?
0:16:38 > 0:16:40- For me mam.- Aye.
0:16:40 > 0:16:45- From the family.- Well, your mum was a proud Catholic, wasn't she?
0:16:45 > 0:16:46She was a very proud Catholic, yes.
0:16:46 > 0:16:49She nearly sent you off to a seminary to be a priest, didn't she?
0:16:49 > 0:16:52- Cos I was blessed by Pope John Paul...- Aye.
0:16:52 > 0:16:55..at the Youth Rally at Ninian Park,
0:16:55 > 0:16:57and that was it for me mam.
0:16:57 > 0:16:59She thought it was a sign, so...
0:16:59 > 0:17:02I was sent off to retreats
0:17:02 > 0:17:03and all sorts of stuff!
0:17:03 > 0:17:06So this is for you, Stell, and we miss you.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17It's not easy to get it in, mate.
0:17:17 > 0:17:19She always was awkward when she was alive.
0:17:19 > 0:17:22SI LAUGHS
0:17:26 > 0:17:27Right, I'm going there.
0:17:29 > 0:17:33Yay! Yeah, all right, Mam. Now I know where you want to be.
0:17:33 > 0:17:36That's smashing. There you are, Stell.
0:17:36 > 0:17:37Right...
0:17:37 > 0:17:40Well, don't say I forget you, cos I don't.
0:17:41 > 0:17:43Who's yours for, mate?
0:17:43 > 0:17:47It seems quite appropriate here to give a little nod to Eastern Europe,
0:17:47 > 0:17:50because if it wasn't for the collapse of Communism,
0:17:50 > 0:17:53I wouldn't have a family, you know, which I'm so lucky to have.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56And also just a little thing of remembrance for all those...
0:17:56 > 0:17:59and there's been a lot over the years that we've lost, you know,
0:17:59 > 0:18:01just show they're not forgotten.
0:18:01 > 0:18:03Well, that's very fitting.
0:18:12 > 0:18:13Eh...
0:18:16 > 0:18:18Look after them, Stell.
0:18:21 > 0:18:23'Today, the Hill of Crosses carries the hopes,
0:18:23 > 0:18:27'dreams and prayers of visitors from all over the world,
0:18:27 > 0:18:31'and now it's got two more crosses to bear.'
0:18:41 > 0:18:43We've a long trip ahead of us, Dave,
0:18:43 > 0:18:46so how about we knock up a classic Lithuanian soup?
0:18:46 > 0:18:49Excellent idea, Mr King.
0:18:49 > 0:18:51- BOTH:- # Ah one, two, three, four
0:18:51 > 0:18:52# We have gone insania
0:18:52 > 0:18:54# We love Lithuania
0:18:54 > 0:18:56- # Ooh, ta-da-da-da! # - Hey!
0:18:56 > 0:18:59Right, do you see what we've done with the bikes? Look.
0:18:59 > 0:19:01Isn't it brilliant? We've put the table on the bikes!
0:19:01 > 0:19:03We have now morphed into the bikes.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06We are a cooking, motorcycling creating machine,
0:19:06 > 0:19:09- and we are going to create for you...- Oh, yes.
0:19:09 > 0:19:14..bing-bang-banging Hairy Bikers' Baltic beetroot broth borscht.
0:19:14 > 0:19:15- Beetroot soup...- Yup.
0:19:15 > 0:19:19- ..is a very, very serious thing here. - It is. We want to do it justice.
0:19:19 > 0:19:22- We do.- It's not just some eejit in a headscarf
0:19:22 > 0:19:24throwing some beetroot on the fire,
0:19:24 > 0:19:27and then it comes out the colour of your head.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30Everything happens in here.
0:19:30 > 0:19:33Into our pot of joy goes butter and oil,
0:19:33 > 0:19:35then the foundations for a great soup -
0:19:35 > 0:19:37diced carrots, onions and celery.
0:19:37 > 0:19:40This is like the holy trinity, isn't it?
0:19:40 > 0:19:43And now the star of the show - beetroot.
0:19:43 > 0:19:46Don't try and make it at home with the pickled beetroot,
0:19:46 > 0:19:48because that would be bad.
0:19:48 > 0:19:51And of course you can buy the beetroot at home.
0:19:51 > 0:19:53Boil it in the skin, then peel it and chop it.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55You will look like Jack the Ripper.
0:19:55 > 0:19:57We put that in to sweat.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00And pretty soon that's sweating like Vladimir Putin
0:20:00 > 0:20:02in a Baltic chain gang.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05I'll take care of the garlic, dude. Have you got the spuds?
0:20:05 > 0:20:10Let's face it, we're in Lithuania, everything's got a potato in it!
0:20:10 > 0:20:13That's the sound of happy cooking, Kingy -
0:20:13 > 0:20:16dicing and slicing, and the smell of sizzling onions in the pan.
0:20:16 > 0:20:18- You cannae whack it, can you?- No.
0:20:18 > 0:20:22Chuck in the garlic and the spuds and saute for a couple of minutes
0:20:22 > 0:20:25before adding a litre-and-a-half of beef stock.
0:20:25 > 0:20:29- Have you seen this, dude? - Yeah.- It's like a lava lamp.
0:20:29 > 0:20:31- It is, innit?- Innit? Look at that.
0:20:31 > 0:20:33Trippy stock.
0:20:33 > 0:20:36PSYCHEDELIC MUSIC PLAYS
0:20:36 > 0:20:38I said trippy stock, not Woodstock!
0:20:38 > 0:20:40THEY CHEER
0:20:40 > 0:20:44- Let's get another local staple in, my mucker!- Cabbage.
0:20:44 > 0:20:46This is it, mate.
0:20:46 > 0:20:48Half should do, finely chopped. On your marks...
0:20:48 > 0:20:50And chop!
0:20:54 > 0:20:56Right, done.
0:20:56 > 0:20:57Fine.
0:20:57 > 0:20:59Fine. About the same, innit?
0:20:59 > 0:21:01- It is.- I declare this a draw.
0:21:01 > 0:21:03SI MOUTHS
0:21:03 > 0:21:06They always do that on telly, don't they? Get over yourself.
0:21:06 > 0:21:09In with a couple of tomatoes, skinned, cored and chopped.
0:21:09 > 0:21:11Or you could just open a tin.
0:21:11 > 0:21:13That just needs bringing to a right royal boil
0:21:13 > 0:21:15and left to simmer down.
0:21:15 > 0:21:18To go with the borsht, we've knocked up some rye bread rolls,
0:21:18 > 0:21:21which I'm painting with garlic butter.
0:21:21 > 0:21:24The sun's got out to kiss me garlic buns.
0:21:24 > 0:21:25Let's have a look.
0:21:25 > 0:21:27- Ready?- I hope it's red!
0:21:27 > 0:21:28- It's red.- Yes!
0:21:28 > 0:21:30Some pan-fried pork medallions
0:21:30 > 0:21:33are like a little secret in the bottom of the bowl.
0:21:33 > 0:21:36Then we'll top off the soup with a dollop of sour cream.
0:21:36 > 0:21:38And in honour of our host country,
0:21:38 > 0:21:40we're going to decorate the soup
0:21:40 > 0:21:42with the colours of the Lithuanian flag.
0:21:42 > 0:21:45Kingy, you've got them in the wrong order, man.
0:21:45 > 0:21:47There's a blooming big clue on the table.
0:21:47 > 0:21:49SI LAUGHS
0:21:49 > 0:21:50Get in!
0:21:50 > 0:21:53I can honestly say it's the first time
0:21:53 > 0:21:56that we have colour co-ordinated us to the food.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58THEY LAUGH
0:21:58 > 0:22:01There is always a first, as we say, for everything, mate.
0:22:01 > 0:22:03Yes! That looks an absolute perfect picture.
0:22:03 > 0:22:05In fact, it looks almost too good to eat.
0:22:05 > 0:22:07Don't be ridiculous.
0:22:07 > 0:22:09- I know.- Come on.- Yes!
0:22:15 > 0:22:17I'll tell you what,
0:22:17 > 0:22:19touch of genius with the garlic butter on the buns.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22I've seen that happen quite a lot round here, actually.
0:22:22 > 0:22:23Hmm. Really good.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25Well, mate, I think we've treated that dish
0:22:25 > 0:22:27with the reverence it deserves.
0:22:27 > 0:22:30It's not like we've dressed up and messed about a bit.
0:22:30 > 0:22:32Have you seen the state of the pair of us?
0:22:35 > 0:22:38Lithuanian's been a great start to our Baltic trilogy.
0:22:38 > 0:22:40We'd like to have seen more,
0:22:40 > 0:22:42but Latvia beckons,
0:22:42 > 0:22:44and we've an appointment to keep.
0:22:44 > 0:22:47Next stop, the Latvian capital of Riga,
0:22:47 > 0:22:51and a chance to hook up with a very special bunch of lads.
0:22:56 > 0:23:00Crossing the border from Lithuania into Latvia these days is a breeze,
0:23:00 > 0:23:02but we've got two hours in the saddle
0:23:02 > 0:23:04before we hit the capital
0:23:04 > 0:23:07and it's raining "kaki un suni" -
0:23:07 > 0:23:09that's cats and dogs, to you and me.
0:23:09 > 0:23:12Over to you for navigation, Kingy.
0:23:12 > 0:23:15I'm just concentrating on keeping this thing upright this morning.
0:23:21 > 0:23:24Whoa...I did not expect this, Dave.
0:23:28 > 0:23:30It's stunning, man.
0:23:30 > 0:23:32Breathtaking.
0:23:33 > 0:23:35Riga has the biggest and best collection
0:23:35 > 0:23:38of Art Nouveau architecture in Europe.
0:23:42 > 0:23:46'And this is the Freedom Monument where independence activists
0:23:46 > 0:23:49'used to stage illegal gatherings in the 1980s - and in its shadow...'
0:23:49 > 0:23:52..is a small but very significant monument
0:23:52 > 0:23:56because this is to say that Riga was part of that Baltic Chain,
0:23:56 > 0:23:58that movement of freedom and independence.
0:23:58 > 0:24:01You do begin to realise just how massive that Baltic Chain was
0:24:01 > 0:24:03- when you start to ride it.- Yes.
0:24:03 > 0:24:06Can you imagine how many people it takes?
0:24:06 > 0:24:09I mean, it's hundreds and hundreds of miles.
0:24:10 > 0:24:14# Oh, well, I'm the type of guy who will never settle down... #
0:24:14 > 0:24:15Thank you.
0:24:15 > 0:24:19# Where pretty girls are, well, you know that I'm around
0:24:19 > 0:24:23# I kiss 'em and I love 'em cos to me they're all the same... #
0:24:23 > 0:24:25And what precisely are you doing?
0:24:27 > 0:24:29Well, this is Riga's dating clock tower, mate,
0:24:29 > 0:24:32and what you do, if you have a date, you see,
0:24:32 > 0:24:34you stand here with a bunch of flowers
0:24:34 > 0:24:36in the hope that your date is going to turn up.
0:24:36 > 0:24:39- However, you see the tram?- Aye.
0:24:39 > 0:24:42What happens is, you see the ladies in the tram, they drive past,
0:24:42 > 0:24:44and if you're a bit of a minger,
0:24:44 > 0:24:46and you're stood here with flowers, they just keep going.
0:24:46 > 0:24:48If you're not, they'll get off the tram.
0:24:48 > 0:24:51Well, I better go, then, I won't cramp your style.
0:24:54 > 0:24:59Well, who could resist a big Hairy Biker like you, mate?
0:24:59 > 0:25:02Well, by the looks of it, everyone!
0:25:02 > 0:25:05Never mind, Kingy - I've read there's an amazing market
0:25:05 > 0:25:07here in Latvia's capital.
0:25:07 > 0:25:10Well, dude, what are we waiting for?
0:25:13 > 0:25:16Riga Central Market fills five old Zeppelin hangers
0:25:16 > 0:25:19and 100,000 people a day shop here.
0:25:19 > 0:25:21Wow!
0:25:21 > 0:25:23It's gargantuan.
0:25:23 > 0:25:28This is epic! There are over 3,000 stalls.
0:25:28 > 0:25:32Which is good, because we've promised to cook for a bunch of fellow bikers
0:25:32 > 0:25:33and we need inspiration!
0:25:34 > 0:25:36"Privitais Seka...Sektors".
0:25:36 > 0:25:40- That means, like, small supplier, small farm.- Beautiful.
0:25:40 > 0:25:42- That looks like beautiful butter, Kingy.- It does.
0:25:42 > 0:25:46- Can we have two "lauku sviests", please?- Yes.- Thank you.
0:25:47 > 0:25:52Everywhere we look, stalls are piled high with fantastic local produce.
0:25:52 > 0:25:55I can't see anything imported!
0:25:55 > 0:25:58- Hello.- Hello. - Oh - spring onions.
0:25:58 > 0:26:01- Oh, mate, look at the garlic, man. - Ooh!
0:26:01 > 0:26:03- That's just out of the ground. - Lovely, isn't it?
0:26:03 > 0:26:05Shall we have some of that? I'm sure we can use it.
0:26:05 > 0:26:06Yeah, definitely.
0:26:06 > 0:26:09This is a classic, really, of Eastern European food, isn't it?
0:26:09 > 0:26:10Dill. Beautiful.
0:26:10 > 0:26:13The range of produce is phenomenal.
0:26:13 > 0:26:15And they're very resourceful,
0:26:15 > 0:26:17when it comes to preserving and pickling food -
0:26:17 > 0:26:20everything from apples to garlic.
0:26:20 > 0:26:24Oh, Kingy, look at that - piles of sauerkraut like giant haystacks.
0:26:24 > 0:26:25Oh, get in.
0:26:25 > 0:26:27Just like in Lithuania,
0:26:27 > 0:26:30black bread's a popular Latvian staple.
0:26:30 > 0:26:33It's massive. Could we have that, please?
0:26:33 > 0:26:35This is brilliant. I love this gaff.
0:26:37 > 0:26:41Don't get carried away, Si - I can't keep topping your wardrobe up!
0:26:42 > 0:26:46Flipping heck, Dave, look at this!
0:26:46 > 0:26:48This is a fish lover's paradise.
0:26:50 > 0:26:54There are dozens of fish stalls. Latvians can't get enough of it!
0:26:54 > 0:26:57They've over 100 recipes just for smoked mackerel -
0:26:57 > 0:26:59I think that says it all, Si!
0:26:59 > 0:27:03Take that off, cos I think they're going to charge us double.
0:27:03 > 0:27:06- Do you know what I mean? - Did I not suit it?
0:27:06 > 0:27:08Oh, you suit it all right.
0:27:08 > 0:27:12- Oh, she's giving us a taste, Dave. - It might be what we call butterfish.
0:27:13 > 0:27:15- Ohh... - Thank you.
0:27:15 > 0:27:16Mate...
0:27:18 > 0:27:20- That is fantastic. - Ohh...
0:27:20 > 0:27:23- And we want the herring.- Yes.
0:27:23 > 0:27:25Is this, er...fish sausage?
0:27:25 > 0:27:28- Yeah.- Is it?- Salmon.- Salmon.- Salmon.
0:27:28 > 0:27:30- Salmon sausage.- Yes.- Oh!
0:27:30 > 0:27:34I never thought anything could top the Lithuanian potato sausage!
0:27:35 > 0:27:38I'm blown away by the food in this market.
0:27:38 > 0:27:41We've got classic Latvian ingredients for our next cook-up
0:27:41 > 0:27:44but we'd better get it right or there'll be hell to pay.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47They can't turn nasty, not with what we're doing for them.
0:27:47 > 0:27:50Well, we'll find out soon enough.
0:27:59 > 0:28:02Mate, we're in for a barn-stormer of a day!
0:28:02 > 0:28:04It's always great to meet fellow bikers
0:28:04 > 0:28:07and find out about the best local rides.
0:28:07 > 0:28:09Today should be special, though.
0:28:09 > 0:28:11We're hooking up with the Brothers of the Wind,
0:28:11 > 0:28:14Latvia's very first motorcycle club.
0:28:14 > 0:28:17It's been a long time since we've ridden in a pack!
0:28:17 > 0:28:19Aye, and we've got a great meal planned.
0:28:19 > 0:28:20I hope they like it!
0:28:23 > 0:28:27Glad to meet you. Nice to meet you, man, how are you?
0:28:27 > 0:28:29Thanks for turning out. Hey, dude.
0:28:29 > 0:28:31How many of you are there in the club?
0:28:31 > 0:28:34In the club, we are almost 25.
0:28:34 > 0:28:37- We were the first. - We were the first club.
0:28:37 > 0:28:41- Nowadays, they are some 30, 40 MC clubs in Latvia.- Is there?
0:28:41 > 0:28:42Yes, there are many clubs.
0:28:42 > 0:28:44It works very well altogether.
0:28:44 > 0:28:48We are not big and we don't expect to become big clubs.
0:28:48 > 0:28:52- The main role is the friendship. - Yes. Yes.- And we are friends.
0:28:52 > 0:28:55And you know, if you want to get somebody in the club,
0:28:55 > 0:28:59he has to be friendly with everybody.
0:28:59 > 0:29:03He has to get from every club member, sign.
0:29:03 > 0:29:06That's what it is about motorcyclists and motorcycle communities, isn't it?
0:29:06 > 0:29:08It's all that, you know...
0:29:08 > 0:29:09You meet up, you have a party,
0:29:09 > 0:29:11you have a chat...it's just brilliant.
0:29:11 > 0:29:13- It's democratic. - It is democratic, yeah, it is.
0:29:13 > 0:29:16MUSIC: Black Betty by Ram Jam
0:29:19 > 0:29:23Bike gangs were outlawed in the Soviet era.
0:29:23 > 0:29:25Doesn't freedom taste good, dude?
0:29:25 > 0:29:28I don't know - I can only smell exhaust fumes.
0:29:30 > 0:29:32It's half an hour ride from Riga
0:29:32 > 0:29:35to Saulkrasti Beach on the Latvian coast.
0:29:37 > 0:29:41And the perfect place to pay the lads back for a great day out
0:29:41 > 0:29:43is this ten-mile stretch of golden sand.
0:29:44 > 0:29:47We're cooking something for the lads just to say thank you
0:29:47 > 0:29:48for that awesome bike ride.
0:29:48 > 0:29:51You'd think we'd be doing stuff like pulled pork, you know,
0:29:51 > 0:29:54briskets, a rack of ribs the size of a dinosaur's backbone,
0:29:54 > 0:29:57but no - we're doing...
0:29:57 > 0:30:00Chicken liver pate and two salads.
0:30:00 > 0:30:02Now, look, guys, it's not as daft as it sounds -
0:30:02 > 0:30:04they are traditional Latvian fare.
0:30:04 > 0:30:06I mean, the Latvians pate anything.
0:30:06 > 0:30:08There's even recipes for mackerel liver pate,
0:30:08 > 0:30:10but...eugh!
0:30:10 > 0:30:12Let's cook something you want to cook at home.
0:30:12 > 0:30:14I hope the lads like it, cos, you know,
0:30:14 > 0:30:16there's more testosterone on this beach
0:30:16 > 0:30:18than a rutting bull - huuuh!
0:30:18 > 0:30:21SI SNORTS WITH LAUGHTER
0:30:21 > 0:30:23- Should we get on?- Yes.- Honestly!
0:30:23 > 0:30:25- Look at that.- Oh, hey.
0:30:25 > 0:30:27That butter's bubbling like a good 'un.
0:30:27 > 0:30:29- Dave, there's the thyme. - Thank you.
0:30:29 > 0:30:32Crumbs - you see the size of this spoon?
0:30:32 > 0:30:34We've got some onion there, really finely chopped.
0:30:34 > 0:30:37It's about 1½ small onions
0:30:37 > 0:30:39to about a kilo and a bit of chicken livers.
0:30:39 > 0:30:43They go in, and we sweat those off until they are translucent,
0:30:43 > 0:30:45which means you can see through them.
0:30:45 > 0:30:47I want about three teaspoons of fresh thyme.
0:30:47 > 0:30:49- Isn't that beautiful?- Gorgeous, man.
0:30:49 > 0:30:53That is chopped finer than the hair on a butterfly's armpit.
0:30:53 > 0:30:55SI CHUCKLES
0:30:55 > 0:30:56Should I grind me spices?
0:30:56 > 0:30:59- Aye, go on, while I'm manning the pan, man.- Man.
0:30:59 > 0:31:01- Man. Hingy, pet, man, hingy... - Right...
0:31:01 > 0:31:04He passes me allspice berries.
0:31:04 > 0:31:06Seven, eight, nine.
0:31:06 > 0:31:10Next, white peppercorns - about three teaspoons.
0:31:10 > 0:31:14Sometimes, freshly ground white pepper can, I believe, be nicer.
0:31:14 > 0:31:17Allspice berries and white pepper.
0:31:20 > 0:31:22Right, sprinkle that in and just let it cook.
0:31:22 > 0:31:26So there's about 1.2 kilos of chicken livers.
0:31:26 > 0:31:27- Are you ready, Kingy? - I'm ready.
0:31:27 > 0:31:29Into that ethereal broth.
0:31:29 > 0:31:32The livers are only going to take about three minutes to cook.
0:31:32 > 0:31:34We want it cooked and browned on the outside
0:31:34 > 0:31:36and on the inside, still a little bit pink.
0:31:36 > 0:31:41Because there is nothing worse than an overcooked, dry, tasteless liver.
0:31:41 > 0:31:43- They're doing lovely, Kingy. - Smashing, aren't they?
0:31:43 > 0:31:45- Still a bit of bounce. - Excellent.
0:31:45 > 0:31:49- So decant your livers into a bowl. - Cheers.
0:31:50 > 0:31:53Now comes the fun part - we need to add the booze.
0:31:53 > 0:31:57If the vicar's coming for tea, we could do this with sherry,
0:31:57 > 0:32:00but we're in Latvia, so we found this -
0:32:00 > 0:32:02brandy with plums.
0:32:02 > 0:32:05We want about 150ml of this, quite a lot.
0:32:05 > 0:32:07Carefully take it off the heat.
0:32:07 > 0:32:08Woof...it's off.
0:32:10 > 0:32:13It's funny, you can't see the flames.
0:32:13 > 0:32:14SI LAUGHS
0:32:14 > 0:32:16It's definitely there!
0:32:16 > 0:32:17Reduce by half...
0:32:17 > 0:32:20It'll be all right, Dave, don't worry. It's reducing quicker.
0:32:20 > 0:32:22Pour it onto the chicken livers.
0:32:22 > 0:32:24Oh-ho-ho! As you step back!
0:32:24 > 0:32:26"Pour it onto the chicken livers, Kingy."
0:32:26 > 0:32:27While you've got some left...
0:32:27 > 0:32:28Beautiful.
0:32:28 > 0:32:32- Now, that needs to be processed into a fine puree.- What?
0:32:33 > 0:32:34Over to you, mate.
0:32:38 > 0:32:39Oh!
0:32:39 > 0:32:41Luckily for me, Latvian beaches
0:32:41 > 0:32:43have plug points dotted along them.
0:32:43 > 0:32:46Well, they have when you've put them there.
0:32:46 > 0:32:49So what we do now is puree it.
0:32:49 > 0:32:51Now, we want this pureed quite fine,
0:32:51 > 0:32:56so...I'm going to give this a little bit of effort.
0:32:56 > 0:33:01# Smooth operator
0:33:01 > 0:33:02# Smooth operator... #
0:33:02 > 0:33:05Ooh - smooth operator.
0:33:06 > 0:33:09That's like the inside of Sade's head.
0:33:09 > 0:33:12# Coast to coast, LA to Chi... #
0:33:12 > 0:33:14- What's it like? - Ooh...
0:33:14 > 0:33:16Needs salt but it's beautiful.
0:33:16 > 0:33:19- Is it? Nice texture? - Oh, yeah, texture's fab.
0:33:19 > 0:33:22Now I reckon about a teaspoon and a half of salt
0:33:22 > 0:33:24should do it nicely.
0:33:24 > 0:33:25This is lovely.
0:33:25 > 0:33:28I mean, Kingy, once it's cooled, the butter's going to set it anyway.
0:33:28 > 0:33:30Exactly.
0:33:30 > 0:33:32- Now, because they're quite delicate boys...- Oh, yes.
0:33:32 > 0:33:34..we'll pass the pate through a sieve
0:33:34 > 0:33:36to make sure it's super-smooth for them.
0:33:36 > 0:33:39This is quite hot, still - if you were at home,
0:33:39 > 0:33:43you would leave it to cool so you don't burn your little Dick Dandies.
0:33:43 > 0:33:44However, we're men.
0:33:44 > 0:33:47THEY GROWL
0:33:49 > 0:33:51Get a good sieve and it'll take the strain.
0:33:54 > 0:33:56And that goes into a pate dish.
0:33:58 > 0:33:59Now, what we're going to do
0:33:59 > 0:34:01is tamper it down a little bit...
0:34:02 > 0:34:04..to get rid of those air bubbles,
0:34:04 > 0:34:05so it's a nice cut,
0:34:05 > 0:34:07and then just smooth it out.
0:34:07 > 0:34:08But what I would do,
0:34:08 > 0:34:11If it was going to be a day or two before you ate it,
0:34:11 > 0:34:13I'd float some melted butter on the top -
0:34:13 > 0:34:16that would set and that's going to preserve the pate
0:34:16 > 0:34:19so it's going to stop it discolouring on the top.
0:34:19 > 0:34:21Oh, you're just wasting THYME now.
0:34:21 > 0:34:24SI CHUCKLES
0:34:24 > 0:34:26Beautiful, nice work.
0:34:26 > 0:34:28There we are - the chicken liver pate.
0:34:28 > 0:34:31- A couple of salads and it's time for tea.- Marvellous.
0:34:31 > 0:34:34We've gone and made a couple of bad boy salads.
0:34:34 > 0:34:39Did you just call a salad "bad boy"?
0:34:39 > 0:34:40I might have.
0:34:40 > 0:34:42Anyway, I've gone with a layer of salad leaves
0:34:42 > 0:34:45covered with green beans, radishes and beetroot,
0:34:45 > 0:34:48sprinkled with a hint of mint, dill and parsley,
0:34:48 > 0:34:54and a genius touch of barley, pomegranate, walnuts and cheese.
0:34:54 > 0:34:56Ooh, fancy-pants - I'll see yours
0:34:56 > 0:34:59and raise you a layered salad with herrings and pickles.
0:34:59 > 0:35:01Now that's proper Latvian grub.
0:35:01 > 0:35:03Line your bowl with salad leaves,
0:35:03 > 0:35:05and top with a layer of creamy potato salad,
0:35:05 > 0:35:07laced with tangy fresh horseradish,
0:35:07 > 0:35:10and add some chopped-up Baltic herring.
0:35:10 > 0:35:13If you can't get these, a tin of anchovies will do,
0:35:13 > 0:35:15but let's face it, we're by the Baltic
0:35:15 > 0:35:18and nothing is going to replace a beautiful Baltic herring.
0:35:18 > 0:35:24Then layer up some blanched carrots, cooked beetroot and fresh cucumber.
0:35:24 > 0:35:28And just carry on building. It's like a Latvian Viennetta.
0:35:30 > 0:35:34No Latvian salad would be complete without hard-boiled eggs.
0:35:34 > 0:35:37Scatter them on separately, though - it's got to look pretty.
0:35:37 > 0:35:39And finally, dress it with dill.
0:35:41 > 0:35:46There you are - my homage to a traditional Latvian salad.
0:35:46 > 0:35:49And no meal in this part of the world would be complete without...
0:35:49 > 0:35:52Black bread!
0:35:52 > 0:35:55Apparently, you can tell if your marriages are going to be successful
0:35:55 > 0:35:58by the way your wife cooks the bread -
0:35:58 > 0:35:59in the first week of marriage,
0:35:59 > 0:36:02if the bread that she bakes is cracked and bad,
0:36:02 > 0:36:04your marriage is bad.
0:36:04 > 0:36:05Is this true?
0:36:05 > 0:36:08I've been married for more than 30 years.
0:36:08 > 0:36:10- CHEERING AND CLAPPING - It's OK, I think.
0:36:12 > 0:36:15So would you say this was a Latvian-style feast?
0:36:15 > 0:36:16Are you happy with this?
0:36:17 > 0:36:21- This is really a Latvian style of food.- Yeah?
0:36:21 > 0:36:25- With a very, very small touch of England.- Thank you.
0:36:25 > 0:36:26'Get in!
0:36:26 > 0:36:29'That's music to my ears, mate, and a big thumbs-up from the lads.'
0:36:29 > 0:36:34'Aye, looks like we've got a table full of happy customers.
0:36:34 > 0:36:39'And, I think we've made some friends for life here in Latvia.'
0:36:39 > 0:36:42It's been an absolute privilege to ride with you
0:36:42 > 0:36:45and we hope that the food is, in some way,
0:36:45 > 0:36:47to say a very big thank you because it's been a great day.
0:36:47 > 0:36:50- Thank you all very much. - It's been wonderful to meet you all.
0:36:50 > 0:36:52You can say by yourself, "liels paldies".
0:36:52 > 0:36:54- Liels paldies.- Liels paldies.
0:36:54 > 0:36:56And if you find yourself in England,
0:36:56 > 0:36:58either in Newcastle or Barrow-in-Furness,
0:36:58 > 0:37:00come riding with us.
0:37:00 > 0:37:02Thanks. Let's keep in touch.
0:37:02 > 0:37:05Lovely to meet you, hope to see you again.
0:37:05 > 0:37:06Hope to see you again. Thank you.
0:37:06 > 0:37:08'Dude, it's sad to see the Brothers leave.'
0:37:08 > 0:37:09'Aye, Si.'
0:37:09 > 0:37:12- See you again. Thank you. - Bye-bye. Thank you.
0:37:16 > 0:37:19Ride like the wind, brothers.
0:37:24 > 0:37:26We've had some amazing food so far.
0:37:26 > 0:37:29I feel that Lithuania and Latvia
0:37:29 > 0:37:31are very much in tune with each other
0:37:31 > 0:37:33and both pretty resourceful.
0:37:33 > 0:37:37Agreed. But the final country in our Baltic trilogy is Estonia,
0:37:37 > 0:37:41where, I hear, we can expect an entirely different experience.
0:37:43 > 0:37:45We've travelled nearly 200 miles
0:37:45 > 0:37:47along the Latvian coast to Estonia,
0:37:47 > 0:37:49heading for the island of Muhu,
0:37:49 > 0:37:51before hitting the capital Tallinn.
0:37:53 > 0:37:56We've heard there's a place that's taking ancient ingredients
0:37:56 > 0:38:00and transforming them into the food of the future.
0:38:00 > 0:38:02- It's very beautiful.- It is, isn't it?
0:38:02 > 0:38:04And now Muhu, Muhu beckons.
0:38:04 > 0:38:05Are we going to a nudist camp?
0:38:05 > 0:38:08No, we're just going to Muhu, not Nude Hu.
0:38:11 > 0:38:13During the Soviet era,
0:38:13 > 0:38:16this island was a strategic military site for the Russians
0:38:16 > 0:38:21and was isolated from mainland Estonia for over 50 years.
0:38:21 > 0:38:24Which might explain why they got used to using what's around them
0:38:24 > 0:38:27and have become so creative with their food.
0:38:29 > 0:38:30Muhu is a conundrum.
0:38:30 > 0:38:32It's like stepping back in time,
0:38:32 > 0:38:36but is also at the cutting edge of Baltic cuisine.
0:38:36 > 0:38:37It's a bit off the beaten track,
0:38:37 > 0:38:40but there's a restaurant here we shouldn't miss.
0:38:40 > 0:38:45The food on this trip has just got better and better.
0:38:46 > 0:38:49Kingy, welcome to Padaste Manor.
0:38:49 > 0:38:51- Hey, it's fab, isn't it? - It is, innit?
0:38:51 > 0:38:52There's a chef here called Yves Le Lay.
0:38:52 > 0:38:55- Apparently his food's amazing. - Oh, wow.
0:38:55 > 0:38:58He's taken the past and taking it well and truly into the future.
0:38:58 > 0:39:00I knew you'd have a plan, dude.
0:39:00 > 0:39:02Kingy, we're going to have a lick of the future.
0:39:02 > 0:39:04I like licking the future.
0:39:04 > 0:39:07'Chef Yves and his trusty side-kick Anna-Liisa
0:39:07 > 0:39:10'gather many of their ingredients from the wild,
0:39:10 > 0:39:13'and they've agreed to let us in on some of their secrets.'
0:39:13 > 0:39:14You have herbs out here
0:39:14 > 0:39:19that actually has these exotic flavours to them, you know?
0:39:19 > 0:39:21You have the woodruff or you have now,
0:39:21 > 0:39:23where we're going down to get the sea arrowgrass, for example.
0:39:23 > 0:39:27It's very diverse, there are so many plants that are edible
0:39:27 > 0:39:31and we don't normally eat in our everyday palate, say.
0:39:31 > 0:39:3590% of great cheffing is great shopping, or foraging.
0:39:35 > 0:39:38- Should we?- Let's do it! - Yeah.- Brilliant.
0:39:38 > 0:39:41'Yves and Anna-Liisa are a talented pair,
0:39:41 > 0:39:43'one seeking out ingredients,
0:39:43 > 0:39:46'the other turning them into world-class dishes.'
0:39:46 > 0:39:48This is beautiful.
0:39:48 > 0:39:49So this is part of your garden?
0:39:49 > 0:39:54Yes, it is, it's part of my foraging grounds.
0:39:54 > 0:39:58- Cor, this is good for the soul. What a great job!- Yes, it is.
0:39:58 > 0:40:00So what are we looking for, Anna-Liisa?
0:40:00 > 0:40:03- So today, we are looking for sea arrowgrass.- Right.
0:40:03 > 0:40:05- It's a plant that looks like chives. - Yes.
0:40:05 > 0:40:07But tastes of a different herb, so...
0:40:09 > 0:40:11- So, there is one for you.- Thank you.
0:40:11 > 0:40:13And when you taste it,
0:40:13 > 0:40:15you should guess what kind of herb it tastes like,
0:40:15 > 0:40:16it has a very distinctive...
0:40:16 > 0:40:20- It tastes like coriander.- Yes. - Yes, it does.- That is true.
0:40:20 > 0:40:22And it's funny, because coriander,
0:40:22 > 0:40:24you would normally associate with Asian cuisine.
0:40:24 > 0:40:27- That's fantastic. - That is really good, yeah.
0:40:27 > 0:40:29I have to keep pinching myself that I'm in Estonia.
0:40:29 > 0:40:31- It's just mind-blowing, isn't it? - Yeah.
0:40:31 > 0:40:34Right, that's all good, but get to work, yeah?
0:40:34 > 0:40:35Oooh(!)
0:40:35 > 0:40:38'Chef's got a plan and we've got to work for our supper, Si.
0:40:38 > 0:40:41'I'm on it, dude. If he's cooking, I'm pickin'!'
0:40:43 > 0:40:45- Do you think? Yeah? - Yeah.
0:40:45 > 0:40:47We need to get onto the other side of the island, now.
0:40:47 > 0:40:51- There's some more stuff waiting for you.- Oh, OK, great.- Lead on.
0:40:53 > 0:40:54'As well as foraging for Chef,
0:40:54 > 0:40:58'we've got to gather a special ingredient for our own recipe.
0:40:58 > 0:41:00'Muhu was once a wool-producing island
0:41:00 > 0:41:03'where the sheep ate everything, except for...'
0:41:03 > 0:41:06- We have a juniper tree. - Ah, juniper berries.
0:41:06 > 0:41:09Is there a lot of juniper on Muhu?
0:41:09 > 0:41:12- Yes, there is - this is the most common tree or bush here.- Really?
0:41:12 > 0:41:16We need some juniper berries, as it happens, for the next recipe.
0:41:16 > 0:41:19- OK.- Can we have some?- Yeah, sure. - Go on, you know what to cut.
0:41:20 > 0:41:22Oh, this is beautiful.
0:41:22 > 0:41:25Yes - this is the north coast now.
0:41:25 > 0:41:26It's gorgeous, isn't it?
0:41:26 > 0:41:28I'm chuffed with me juniper berries.
0:41:28 > 0:41:31- What are we going to look for next? - We have one more great plant.
0:41:31 > 0:41:36- And there we have it.- You see? - Oh, wow!- Wow!
0:41:36 > 0:41:38It's kale!
0:41:38 > 0:41:40That is remarkable.
0:41:40 > 0:41:45- You can eat the young leaves, and also these florets.- Gosh, yes.
0:41:45 > 0:41:48When you look at this one, it looks like a broccoli.
0:41:48 > 0:41:50It does, it's like purple sprouting broccoli.
0:41:50 > 0:41:53You should taste it, it tastes really, really delicious.
0:41:54 > 0:41:56It's fab.
0:41:56 > 0:41:59Oh, it's a bit peppery as well, like mustard.
0:41:59 > 0:42:02When I started out, everybody wanted to get produce from France.
0:42:02 > 0:42:04Now you look towards what do you have here,
0:42:04 > 0:42:08what you have near the sea, in the meadows and in the forests,
0:42:08 > 0:42:11and be proud of that because it has so much flavour.
0:42:11 > 0:42:14- This is wonderful stuff. - Yes, it is.
0:42:14 > 0:42:18There's also a plentiful bounty to be had from the sea.
0:42:22 > 0:42:26All right, so what do we have here?
0:42:29 > 0:42:34There's a pike, the perch, the white fish, and burbot,
0:42:34 > 0:42:35and it's really slippery...
0:42:35 > 0:42:39'It's a varied catch, but I think something's tickled Chef's fancy.'
0:42:39 > 0:42:42True to his philosophy of using fresh, local ingredients,
0:42:42 > 0:42:45Yves is ready to deliver the unique taste of Muhu.
0:42:45 > 0:42:48We can see the ingredients that obviously you're so passionate about.
0:42:48 > 0:42:50Now you get to turn it into art,
0:42:50 > 0:42:52and I think probably we get to eat it.
0:42:52 > 0:42:56I think the last point is probably the most important.
0:42:56 > 0:42:57It's the tasting part of it.
0:42:57 > 0:43:00So visual - number two, tasting - number one.
0:43:00 > 0:43:03- So we have a beautiful needlefish here.- Yeah.
0:43:03 > 0:43:05That we have sliced off the fillets,
0:43:05 > 0:43:08and just covered in a little bit of oil.
0:43:08 > 0:43:12With that, we have our...the sea kale that we went down...
0:43:12 > 0:43:13The wonder of the beach.
0:43:13 > 0:43:18That, we will poach in some buttery salted water.
0:43:18 > 0:43:23In the garden, we got some sorrel that we have blended into a puree,
0:43:23 > 0:43:25that we will put in our sauce,
0:43:25 > 0:43:28and then we'll garnish the whole dish
0:43:28 > 0:43:30with some chive flowers, some bronze fennel,
0:43:30 > 0:43:33and the sea arrowgrass that we went down to pick at the beach.
0:43:33 > 0:43:36The ingredients are speaking for themselves. Dead simple.
0:43:36 > 0:43:38Yeah, man, there is no hocus-pocus here.
0:43:38 > 0:43:40- There's no... - No, there's not, no.
0:43:40 > 0:43:44It's really about finding the nice, local, fresh ingredients
0:43:44 > 0:43:47and try to carefully cook them
0:43:47 > 0:43:49so that they retain their flavour.
0:43:49 > 0:43:51Heat up the buttery water.
0:43:51 > 0:43:53We're going to take some of the florets,
0:43:53 > 0:43:56some of the leaves and drop them in there.
0:43:56 > 0:43:58At the same time, we will gently cook these -
0:43:58 > 0:44:01we've coated them in oil and just put them under the salamander
0:44:01 > 0:44:04and just, like, slowly cook it.
0:44:04 > 0:44:10If it gets too hard heat, it will immediately fall apart and dry out.
0:44:10 > 0:44:12It's exciting, isn't it?
0:44:12 > 0:44:14With that, we have a sauce. In this sauce,
0:44:14 > 0:44:17there is some mussel stock that we have reduced a little bit,
0:44:17 > 0:44:19butter, and a little bit of creme fraiche.
0:44:19 > 0:44:24It's velvety, it has a little bit of acidity, taste of the sea.
0:44:24 > 0:44:25It's...
0:44:25 > 0:44:28- Oh, that is fantastic. - Now it will get better, because...
0:44:28 > 0:44:31- Whoa!- ..when we pour in some of the sorrel puree,
0:44:31 > 0:44:33give it a little blend...
0:44:33 > 0:44:36When you turned your back then, do you know what he said to me?
0:44:36 > 0:44:40He said, he went, "Do you know, it's ... awesome!"
0:44:40 > 0:44:43- SI LAUGHS - Well, taste it now.
0:44:43 > 0:44:47You put in some of this fresh sorrel, freshly picked.
0:44:47 > 0:44:48Oh, you can smell it, man.
0:44:48 > 0:44:52And it gives it a nice acidity and it completes it, completely.
0:44:52 > 0:44:54And you have to put it in in the end,
0:44:54 > 0:44:57because if you put it in too early, it will just die out.
0:44:57 > 0:45:00Right now, we have to use it now, or else it will die out.
0:45:00 > 0:45:04It looks simple but it takes a brave chef and a great palate
0:45:04 > 0:45:06to put together a dish like this.
0:45:06 > 0:45:11First up, the sea kale, needlefish and sea arrowgrass...
0:45:11 > 0:45:13- The bronze fennel. - The bronze fennel.
0:45:13 > 0:45:16...and, last but not least, chive flowers.
0:45:16 > 0:45:18This will spice up the dish a little bit
0:45:18 > 0:45:21and, all of a sudden, makes the plate more vibrant.
0:45:21 > 0:45:22Put on the sauce...
0:45:24 > 0:45:25And that's it.
0:45:25 > 0:45:27That looks fabulous.
0:45:28 > 0:45:31- Have a taste.- Definitely! - Ooh, yes, please!
0:45:31 > 0:45:32THEY LAUGH
0:45:33 > 0:45:35- And the sauce, the sauce... - The sauce.
0:45:39 > 0:45:42HE CHUCKLES HAPPILY
0:45:42 > 0:45:43Good?
0:45:43 > 0:45:45It just makes you giggle.
0:45:45 > 0:45:46What is that like?
0:45:47 > 0:45:50- Doesn't get any better, does it? - No, absolutely not.
0:45:50 > 0:45:53That is absolutely fantastic.
0:45:53 > 0:45:58You get that citrus note first, and then you get the oil of the fish,
0:45:58 > 0:46:00and then you get that little float,
0:46:00 > 0:46:04just a little float of that wonderful onion flavour
0:46:04 > 0:46:06from the flowers of the chives.
0:46:06 > 0:46:07It's...it's...
0:46:07 > 0:46:10And then earthy notes as well, with the kale, the sea kale.
0:46:10 > 0:46:12Oh, man.
0:46:12 > 0:46:13That's spot-on. It's magical.
0:46:13 > 0:46:16If I wasn't, like, a 48-year-old bloke,
0:46:16 > 0:46:18I'd kiss you for that.
0:46:19 > 0:46:20YVES LAUGHS
0:46:20 > 0:46:25- Hey!- Absolutely excellent, thanks. Totally superb food.
0:46:27 > 0:46:29I can't get over the range of food we've found
0:46:29 > 0:46:30on our travels through the Baltic states
0:46:30 > 0:46:34but, I must admit, I am a little bit in love with Muhu.
0:46:38 > 0:46:42Well, that's not a bad thing, because I've another treat in store.
0:46:42 > 0:46:45You know I was on Strictly Come Dancing?
0:46:45 > 0:46:48Oh, who doesn't? They've probably heard you bragging about it out here!
0:46:48 > 0:46:53Well, we've been invited to a traditional Muhu dance!
0:46:53 > 0:46:54Oh, here we go...
0:46:54 > 0:47:00- Hello, boys, you're welcome! - Hello!- Yeah!- In our house.
0:47:00 > 0:47:01Yes, OK - hello.
0:47:01 > 0:47:03- Thank you.- Very nice to meet you. - Hello, yes.
0:47:03 > 0:47:05How are you? Yes, no, great.
0:47:05 > 0:47:10But we're not going to be watching. Oh, no - we're going native.
0:47:10 > 0:47:11Oh, great(!)
0:47:12 > 0:47:13Yee-haa!
0:47:15 > 0:47:16Boys...!
0:47:16 > 0:47:18EXCITED CHEERING
0:47:18 > 0:47:21'These excitable ladies are celebrating 30 years
0:47:21 > 0:47:22'of dancing together.'
0:47:22 > 0:47:25'The Grand Ladies troupe are going to teach us
0:47:25 > 0:47:27'to shake our thing - Muhu-style.'
0:47:27 > 0:47:30- We are going to dance. - OK. Yes.
0:47:30 > 0:47:33- It's an old island Muhu Dance. - Muhu dance.- Muhu dance.
0:47:33 > 0:47:36Muhu dance, and its name is Oira.
0:47:36 > 0:47:39- Oira, Muhu dance. - Like Moira but with an "Oi".
0:47:39 > 0:47:43You take a girl - you take one girl and you take one girl.
0:47:43 > 0:47:46Hop, hop, and then...
0:47:46 > 0:47:48Hop, hop.
0:47:48 > 0:47:53- And you take...- Hop, hop. - Boys, boys, it's not many hop-hop.
0:47:53 > 0:47:55ACCORDION PLAYS
0:47:58 > 0:47:59Hop-ah! Simple!
0:47:59 > 0:48:03'We're the only blokes dancing, man!'
0:48:03 > 0:48:06'Well, traditionally, men don't dance here.
0:48:06 > 0:48:09'Because in the past, while the men were away fishing,
0:48:09 > 0:48:13'the women worked the land and socialised with a spot of dancing.'
0:48:13 > 0:48:15- APPLAUSE - Kingy, I'm getting the hang of this!
0:48:15 > 0:48:17Dude, I love it, I'm think I'm going to move -
0:48:17 > 0:48:20I'm going to live here and go Hoopla-Hoopla.
0:48:20 > 0:48:24How they do this all the time - it's murder, I'm pooped!
0:48:24 > 0:48:27After hoop-a, it's time for soup-a!
0:48:27 > 0:48:28A traditional meaty broth
0:48:28 > 0:48:31that puts the bounce back into the ladies' step.
0:48:31 > 0:48:35'We've earned this, Dave, and it'd be nowt without customary sour cream
0:48:35 > 0:48:38'and, of course, you can't be in the Baltics without being offered...'
0:48:38 > 0:48:41- Bread. - Bread, oh, thank you very much.
0:48:41 > 0:48:44And you know what it's like when you've had a dance and a bit of soup -
0:48:44 > 0:48:46the truth soon comes out.
0:48:46 > 0:48:48Our men is too lazy.
0:48:48 > 0:48:49Oh, your men are too lazy.
0:48:49 > 0:48:52- Yes.- Ahh! - Only women rules here.
0:48:52 > 0:48:53That's all right, then...
0:48:53 > 0:48:56Dude, can you imagine it? An island ruled by women.
0:48:56 > 0:49:01It's bringing out the devil in me, dude, it's bringing out the devil.
0:49:01 > 0:49:04Do you have to be single to be in the club, dancing?
0:49:04 > 0:49:06- Yes.- Do you?- Yes.
0:49:06 > 0:49:07Is this your soup, then?
0:49:07 > 0:49:11WOMEN LAUGH Make good soup, single...
0:49:11 > 0:49:14- And dancing.- And dancing. - And you dance.
0:49:14 > 0:49:15Do you like motorcycles?
0:49:15 > 0:49:19Rrrr...! Yeah!
0:49:19 > 0:49:21- He's got a spare helmet. - OK.
0:49:21 > 0:49:23LAUGHTER
0:49:23 > 0:49:25You know that when a girl
0:49:25 > 0:49:28revs an imaginary motorcycle at you on Muhu...
0:49:28 > 0:49:29I'll stop you there, Myers.
0:49:30 > 0:49:34Welcome to the island - Muhu man!
0:49:34 > 0:49:35Hey-hey!
0:49:35 > 0:49:37Aw, Dave, man. This is fab.
0:49:37 > 0:49:39It's proper friendly people here, aren't they?
0:49:39 > 0:49:41Talking about mixing it with the locals,
0:49:41 > 0:49:44I'm not quite ready to leave.
0:49:44 > 0:49:47- Oh, I feel manly, man. - I feel I belong to Muhu.
0:49:48 > 0:49:52I'm not sure about me red crash helmet with this orange jumper.
0:49:54 > 0:49:57The food on the island and the new wave of Estonian cuisine
0:49:57 > 0:50:00has got our creative cooking juices flowing.
0:50:00 > 0:50:03Before we move onto our final destination, Tallinn,
0:50:03 > 0:50:06we're going to cook up a feast for our new friends
0:50:06 > 0:50:09and give 'em a taste of Estonian cuisine -
0:50:09 > 0:50:11Hairy Biker-stylee.
0:50:11 > 0:50:14# Estonia, Estonia forever
0:50:14 > 0:50:18# Riding these noble roads in our leather
0:50:18 > 0:50:22# We are the men of Muhu making up our woo-woo
0:50:22 > 0:50:24# Estonia, Estonia, forever. #
0:50:26 > 0:50:29- We're going to cook lamb shanks, aren't we?- Yeah.
0:50:29 > 0:50:30It's kind of traditional,
0:50:30 > 0:50:32but it's kind of something you want to cook at home -
0:50:32 > 0:50:34we love a good lamb shank.
0:50:34 > 0:50:35Listen, there's nothing better.
0:50:35 > 0:50:37- I'll shank. - I'll chop onions.
0:50:37 > 0:50:41For the shanks, very simple process here -
0:50:41 > 0:50:44what we're going to do, basically, we're using seasoned flour.
0:50:44 > 0:50:46We're going to toss the lamb shanks in them
0:50:46 > 0:50:49and then we're going to brown them off in a frying pan
0:50:49 > 0:50:53ready for the casserole pot.
0:50:53 > 0:50:55So, look, we're just tossing...
0:50:55 > 0:50:58See? Look, perfectly formed. That's what we're after.
0:50:58 > 0:51:00A little oil goes in there.
0:51:00 > 0:51:05- And the onions go in and they're going to sweat.- I'm sizzling.
0:51:05 > 0:51:09I'm going to prepare my little mise en place for all the additions.
0:51:09 > 0:51:11First up, I take my sprig of juniper,
0:51:11 > 0:51:12which I did gather from the woodland.
0:51:12 > 0:51:16Into the mortar go the foraged juniper berries.
0:51:16 > 0:51:19You just want to crush them to release that flavour.
0:51:20 > 0:51:22Add the zest of two lemons.
0:51:22 > 0:51:26- Me onions, keep an eye on me onions. - I am, I am keeping an eye on them. - I don't want them browning.
0:51:26 > 0:51:28Well, they...you...uh...
0:51:28 > 0:51:29Are they brown?
0:51:29 > 0:51:33No, no, they're just...bits of them are brown, like...
0:51:35 > 0:51:39A curl of orange peel, bay leaves and fresh parsley.
0:51:39 > 0:51:42And that is me pot of aromatics.
0:51:42 > 0:51:45Look at these carrots, - all odd shapes and sizes,
0:51:45 > 0:51:47especially the one to the right.
0:51:47 > 0:51:50I'll let you chop the top of that one off.
0:51:50 > 0:51:51- Yeah! - Aiiieee!
0:51:53 > 0:51:56Potatoes into quite a chunky dice.
0:51:56 > 0:51:58Result - perfection.
0:51:58 > 0:52:00Now the aromatics go in,
0:52:00 > 0:52:03and gently sweat down those aromatics.
0:52:03 > 0:52:04- Oh... - It's good, isn't it?
0:52:04 > 0:52:07That's kind of ready to rock and roll.
0:52:07 > 0:52:11A shroud of potatoes and me carrots.
0:52:14 > 0:52:16De-glaze your pan with a bit of stock
0:52:16 > 0:52:19to make sure all those lovely meat juices aren't wasted
0:52:19 > 0:52:22and add them to the pot.
0:52:22 > 0:52:23Beautiful.
0:52:23 > 0:52:25And then that lovely beef stock.
0:52:27 > 0:52:30And a squeeze of orange takes this dish to another level.
0:52:32 > 0:52:36Right, that needs to go into a moderate oven,
0:52:36 > 0:52:38about 160 degrees Celsius, for about two hours.
0:52:38 > 0:52:41It's one of those dishes, the longer the better.
0:52:41 > 0:52:43You want those lamb shanks to fall apart.
0:52:43 > 0:52:44- Come on.- Uh...oh...
0:52:44 > 0:52:46'It's worth the wait, you know it is.
0:52:46 > 0:52:48'You know there's something special going on.'
0:52:48 > 0:52:50# Estonia... #
0:52:51 > 0:52:53They smell amazing!
0:52:54 > 0:52:56THEY GASP
0:52:56 > 0:52:59BOTH: Ohh...
0:52:59 > 0:53:02- Oh, yes.- Oh, yes. - Oh, very yes!- Oh-ho-ho!
0:53:02 > 0:53:06Don't forget to fish out the bay leaves, parsley,
0:53:06 > 0:53:07and the orange zest.
0:53:10 > 0:53:14- It's lovely, but we're not finished yet.- No.
0:53:14 > 0:53:18It's almost obligatory to put sour cream in recipes in the Baltics.
0:53:18 > 0:53:20And who are we to argue with tradition?
0:53:20 > 0:53:23Now, it's looking a bit sludgy brown, isn't it?
0:53:23 > 0:53:26So we're going to lift it with loads of flat leaf parsley
0:53:26 > 0:53:28to give it a splash of flavour and colour.
0:53:28 > 0:53:32Oh, man, it just brings it alive, doesn't it? Look at that!
0:53:32 > 0:53:36Then, let those shanks bathe in that succulent sauce.
0:53:36 > 0:53:37Put the lid on that. It's ready to serve.
0:53:37 > 0:53:39That's the dish done.
0:53:39 > 0:53:41Hey, Kingy, we've got to triple the recipe
0:53:41 > 0:53:44for our "Farewell to Muhu" feast.
0:53:44 > 0:53:45Oh, man, you know what this means.
0:53:45 > 0:53:48'I'll break out the industrial-sized orange pot. Make way!'
0:53:48 > 0:53:50Oh!
0:53:50 > 0:53:54These are our Estonian lamb shanks. So are you ready?
0:53:54 > 0:53:55Wahey!
0:53:55 > 0:53:58Madame...
0:53:58 > 0:54:01Chef! Make sure it's a good one!
0:54:01 > 0:54:03It's a corker, Dave, it's a corker!
0:54:03 > 0:54:07- It looks wonderful! - A bit of colour.
0:54:07 > 0:54:10- Yves? - Beautiful, thank you!
0:54:10 > 0:54:11So, ladies and gentlemen,
0:54:11 > 0:54:14- thank you for the most wonderful time in Estonia.- Yes!
0:54:14 > 0:54:17So may we say, "Head isu"!
0:54:17 > 0:54:18CHEERING
0:54:18 > 0:54:21That's "bon appetit" in Estonian.
0:54:21 > 0:54:23Dig in.
0:54:24 > 0:54:26Hmmmmm!
0:54:26 > 0:54:28- Mmm... - You got the juniper?
0:54:28 > 0:54:30Juniper has a very distinctive taste.
0:54:30 > 0:54:33I think we need to improve our presentation to be up to Yves' standard, though.
0:54:33 > 0:54:37Not at all. It looks great. I love all the colours.
0:54:37 > 0:54:40Just not all necessarily in the right order.
0:54:40 > 0:54:41THEY LAUGH
0:54:44 > 0:54:46- It's beautiful.- Aw.
0:54:46 > 0:54:49When you look at it, it looks like something you really want to eat.
0:54:49 > 0:54:51Well, that's the main thing.
0:54:51 > 0:54:54There's no need to re-invent everything, you know?
0:54:54 > 0:54:56Good taste will never go out of fashion.
0:54:56 > 0:54:58What a lovely way to finish our time in Muhu.
0:54:58 > 0:55:00We've got to ride to Tallinn this afternoon.
0:55:00 > 0:55:02That's the end of our journey, at Tallinn,
0:55:02 > 0:55:04and it's going to be very interesting -
0:55:04 > 0:55:07it's the end of that Chain, and what a great journey.
0:55:07 > 0:55:10- Yeah.- Thank you.
0:55:10 > 0:55:12- Thank you very much. - It was great having you.
0:55:17 > 0:55:18But alas, Davey, me mucker,
0:55:18 > 0:55:21it's time to saddle up and head off on the highway...
0:55:21 > 0:55:23Looking for adventure...
0:55:23 > 0:55:25And whatever comes our way!
0:55:25 > 0:55:29# Born to be wild... #
0:55:29 > 0:55:32We're riding three and a half hours north to our journey's end
0:55:32 > 0:55:35and the final part of the Baltic Chain -
0:55:35 > 0:55:39to Tallinn, the historic capital of this fair country of Estonia.
0:55:44 > 0:55:47We've actually travelled along the Chain backwards, as it were,
0:55:47 > 0:55:50because the first link in the chain was actually here
0:55:50 > 0:55:52at Pikk Hermann Tower.
0:55:52 > 0:55:56- Boom!- We've done it.- We've done it. - Yes!- We've ridden the Baltic Chain.
0:55:56 > 0:56:02Oh - and this is where the first hand of that chain started.
0:56:02 > 0:56:03Oh, it's brilliant.
0:56:03 > 0:56:08From Tallinn to Riga to Vilnius, everybody joined hands.
0:56:08 > 0:56:12- The equivalent of Newcastle to Brighton holding hands.- Yeah.
0:56:12 > 0:56:14- Shall we?- Oh, absolutely!
0:56:17 > 0:56:21The 215 steps of this lovely 14th century tower
0:56:21 > 0:56:23will burn off a few calories.
0:56:23 > 0:56:26Not enough, I fear.
0:56:29 > 0:56:30Oh, would you look at that?
0:56:30 > 0:56:32I feel as though I'm on top of the Baltics.
0:56:32 > 0:56:35- It's fantastic, isn't it? - It is, isn't it?
0:56:35 > 0:56:37Cor blimey, this calls for a celebration.
0:56:37 > 0:56:40This is the end of the Baltic Chain.
0:56:40 > 0:56:43- You've always had a sense of occasion. What have we got? - It's cocktail time, Kingy!
0:56:43 > 0:56:46Half a glass of local Tallinn liquor
0:56:46 > 0:56:48'and half Russian fizz.'
0:56:48 > 0:56:52Now top it up - the locals call this a Hammer & Sickle,
0:56:52 > 0:56:54the hammer hits you on the head,
0:56:54 > 0:56:56the sickle cuts your feet from under you.
0:56:56 > 0:56:58- Marvellous.- I know, we're not biking any more tonight,
0:56:58 > 0:57:00so we've earned this.
0:57:00 > 0:57:03You know, Kingy, this trip has been a real eye opener. I've loved it,
0:57:03 > 0:57:06I mean, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia.
0:57:06 > 0:57:10Where was the austerity and greyness that I expected or you expected?
0:57:10 > 0:57:14It was just the most incredible palate of food for a cook.
0:57:14 > 0:57:16When we went to the Curonian Spit, right at the beginning,
0:57:16 > 0:57:18you could have been...where?
0:57:18 > 0:57:21'Mediterranean, it was remarkable.'
0:57:21 > 0:57:23Oh, it's glorious!
0:57:23 > 0:57:27'And the fisherman and his family, that was such warm hospitality,
0:57:27 > 0:57:28'and that dried fish,
0:57:28 > 0:57:30'it was dried fish like we've never seen before.'
0:57:30 > 0:57:33That is perfectly smoked, but still moist, Dave.
0:57:33 > 0:57:35It's lovely, isn't it?
0:57:35 > 0:57:36'And the Hill of Crosses, Kingy -
0:57:36 > 0:57:40'how moving was that, to see such a display of passion?'
0:57:40 > 0:57:43There's got to be way over 100,000, Kingy.
0:57:44 > 0:57:46- Latvia.- Latvia - oh, it was fab.
0:57:46 > 0:57:48'The Brothers of the Wind.'
0:57:48 > 0:57:50'They were a good bunch of lads, weren't they?'
0:57:50 > 0:57:52'I think we made some pals there, and that food was good.'
0:57:52 > 0:57:55We took a risk serving up a picnic, though.
0:57:55 > 0:57:58'The soup that the Muhu ladies made us when they were dancing.'
0:57:58 > 0:58:00'And that was a good laugh, wasn't it?
0:58:00 > 0:58:04'There was a complete joy in Estonia that I really wasn't expecting.'
0:58:04 > 0:58:06But I wonder what lies next in Russia.
0:58:06 > 0:58:09I really don't know what to expect, except that it's there!
0:58:09 > 0:58:10Top of the world.
0:58:10 > 0:58:13- Cheers, mate - the Baltic Chain. - GLASSES CLINK
0:58:13 > 0:58:15'Next time...we're in Russia...'
0:58:15 > 0:58:17Oh!
0:58:17 > 0:58:18'..meeting its people...'
0:58:18 > 0:58:20CHEERING
0:58:20 > 0:58:21'..tasting the high life...'
0:58:21 > 0:58:23It's the most expensive caviar in the world.
0:58:23 > 0:58:26'..in the Jewel of the Baltic...'
0:58:26 > 0:58:27'..St Petersburg.'
0:58:27 > 0:58:28Za zdorovie!