Episode 2

Download Subtitles

Transcript

0:00:02 > 0:00:07For many, Mary Berry is best known for her appearances as a judge on the Great British Bake Off.

0:00:07 > 0:00:11The white chocolate ganache has a lot of cream in it and it is too wet.

0:00:11 > 0:00:13I love the combination of flavours.

0:00:13 > 0:00:19Today she is followed by an ever-growing band of home cooks who turn to her for her trusted recipes.

0:00:19 > 0:00:22- Thank you very much!- Mary Berry!

0:00:22 > 0:00:24APPLAUSE

0:00:24 > 0:00:28The most important thing to me is for people to make my recipes

0:00:28 > 0:00:30and have success with them.

0:00:30 > 0:00:33Last week we saw that Mary struggled at school

0:00:33 > 0:00:36but in domestic science she excelled.

0:00:36 > 0:00:40Here was something I could do, and I was getting praise, it was lovely.

0:00:40 > 0:00:42In 1957, aged 22,

0:00:42 > 0:00:46Mary left her home town of Bath for London to forge a career.

0:00:47 > 0:00:51And by the mid-60s, she had become food editor of Housewife magazine.

0:00:51 > 0:00:55I had to work exceedingly hard, most evenings.

0:00:55 > 0:00:57But I was doing something that I loved.

0:00:57 > 0:01:01This week, with a flourishing career and a young family to raise,

0:01:01 > 0:01:03Mary makes some difficult choices.

0:01:03 > 0:01:09I was really awfully nervous that if I took time off, would I get my job back?

0:01:09 > 0:01:12And Mary's career goes from strength to strength,

0:01:12 > 0:01:16- taking her on the nation's TV screens.- The pan is boiling.

0:01:16 > 0:01:19We are not pretending with this one, look at it. It is piping hot.

0:01:19 > 0:01:22Mary's commitment and dedication have seen her enjoy

0:01:22 > 0:01:25a life in food that has spanned over 50 years.

0:01:25 > 0:01:28I don't think I am a workaholic,

0:01:28 > 0:01:32because what I do is something that I enjoy, I don't think of it as work.

0:01:33 > 0:01:35This is the Mary Berry Story.

0:01:43 > 0:01:48This year, Mary will celebrate 47 years of marriage to her husband, Paul Hunnings.

0:01:50 > 0:01:55But back in 1966, their life together was just beginning.

0:01:56 > 0:02:00I met my husband through my brother at a party,

0:02:00 > 0:02:04they were friends through rugby and were playing rugby and so forth.

0:02:04 > 0:02:09And Paul said to my brother, "I quite like your sister,"

0:02:09 > 0:02:11and my brother said, "You'd better get stuck in there."

0:02:11 > 0:02:16Or something equally rude. And so he began asking me to do things.

0:02:20 > 0:02:23This was an important time at work, too.

0:02:23 > 0:02:25As food editor of a magazine,

0:02:25 > 0:02:27Mary Berry was starting to make a name for herself.

0:02:29 > 0:02:32When I got married I was dying to be Mary Hunnings,

0:02:32 > 0:02:37and my boss, the editor, said to me, "Keep Mary Berry, they have

0:02:37 > 0:02:41"gotten used to the name, why should they bother to have another one?"

0:02:42 > 0:02:44The young couple set up home in London,

0:02:44 > 0:02:48buying a house in the up and coming area of Notting Hill.

0:02:49 > 0:02:52By 1968, they had their first child, Thomas,

0:02:52 > 0:02:54followed a year later by William.

0:02:56 > 0:02:59With two new members of the family to accommodate, Mary and Paul left

0:02:59 > 0:03:03their London home, moving out to Buckinghamshire and the Red House.

0:03:05 > 0:03:0945 years on, Mary is returning to her former family home

0:03:09 > 0:03:12to revisit those early days of motherhood.

0:03:12 > 0:03:17This is the home that I came to when the boys were...

0:03:17 > 0:03:22They must have been nine months and Tom was one and a half.

0:03:23 > 0:03:25And Annabel was born here.

0:03:28 > 0:03:32I remember being in this kitchen with my brand-new Annabel,

0:03:32 > 0:03:34so it has fond memories for me.

0:03:35 > 0:03:41After I'd had the children, I had about...six weeks' maternity leave.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44I never had the feeling that I wanted to stay at home with the children

0:03:44 > 0:03:46because I knew what I wanted to do

0:03:46 > 0:03:49and I wanted to do it well,

0:03:49 > 0:03:53and I wanted to move on and I really have to thank my husband, Paul,

0:03:53 > 0:03:58for encouraging me, but saying, "It is your decision."

0:04:02 > 0:04:07I did feel guilty, working, because it wasn't the done thing.

0:04:07 > 0:04:11My girlfriends all gave up work and then took it up later.

0:04:11 > 0:04:13But I was really awfully nervous.

0:04:13 > 0:04:16If I took time off, would I get my job back?

0:04:16 > 0:04:18Lots of people would have liked to have been

0:04:18 > 0:04:21the cookery editor of a magazine and would do it very well.

0:04:25 > 0:04:28Leaving her three young children at home,

0:04:28 > 0:04:32Mary returned to work as the food editor on Housewife Magazine,

0:04:32 > 0:04:35commuting to London and the offices of publishers, IPC.

0:04:37 > 0:04:39Today she is visiting their new head office,

0:04:39 > 0:04:42where they hold an archive of her early work.

0:04:45 > 0:04:47This is very strange,

0:04:47 > 0:04:50coming back today to a totally different building.

0:04:50 > 0:04:53This is so smart, so grand, so light.

0:04:53 > 0:04:58Our offices in High Holborn were dark, dingy, grotty,

0:04:58 > 0:05:02but I was very happy and I was doing exactly what I wanted to.

0:05:03 > 0:05:07In her six years on the magazine, Mary's readership grew.

0:05:07 > 0:05:12But in 1968 Housewife was merged with sister publication Ideal Home

0:05:12 > 0:05:16Mary was the only person to keep her job.

0:05:16 > 0:05:20Nobody on the magazine knew that we were about to have a merger,

0:05:20 > 0:05:24but one day somebody came into the office and said,

0:05:24 > 0:05:27"This is the last issue of Housewife magazine."

0:05:29 > 0:05:33Sadly, every single person at Housewife was made redundant,

0:05:33 > 0:05:35and I hated that.

0:05:37 > 0:05:41But this was a big break for Mary. Ideal Home was a top title

0:05:41 > 0:05:46selling 200,000 copies per issue and it still thrives today.

0:05:46 > 0:05:48Mary is here to meet the current editor,

0:05:48 > 0:05:51who sourced some of her articles from the '60s and '70s.

0:05:51 > 0:05:56Isobel, do you know what strikes me? It is so peaceful.

0:05:56 > 0:05:58There is a little bit of chitter-chatter.

0:05:58 > 0:06:03In my day, there was this sort of chitter chatter of typewriters.

0:06:03 > 0:06:07And when I look at your magazine now, it is all brightly coloured.

0:06:07 > 0:06:09We had very little colour in the magazine.

0:06:09 > 0:06:13Yes, it is very different now. Recipes are always photographed,

0:06:13 > 0:06:18I have some of your old pieces here that were very interesting, I think.

0:06:18 > 0:06:24You have had them all. They are beautifully bound. You can't lose them.

0:06:24 > 0:06:28No, we don't lose them, we get them out for inspiration.

0:06:28 > 0:06:31I thought this was a particularly interesting piece where you were

0:06:31 > 0:06:35teaching people to make mayonnaise. This was a step-by-step guide.

0:06:35 > 0:06:39And it's great, the method is brilliant.

0:06:39 > 0:06:40Nowadays, we would video this

0:06:40 > 0:06:43and put it on YouTube for people to follow.

0:06:43 > 0:06:47Then you were illustrating it with a pen and ink drawing, how did that work?

0:06:47 > 0:06:50How did that work? Would someone come and watch you do it?

0:06:50 > 0:06:53Yes, the artist would come and it was too expensive to photograph it,

0:06:53 > 0:06:58and this was much cheaper. I was just bringing in olive oil.

0:06:58 > 0:07:00Now everybody has olive oil

0:07:00 > 0:07:04but in this day you got it on the whole from the chemist.

0:07:04 > 0:07:07How about some of the others that we have found?

0:07:07 > 0:07:09Something like this,

0:07:09 > 0:07:13- when you are writing a story about fish.- That was done with an artist,

0:07:13 > 0:07:17and that was the sort of thing I really did not like and I do not like.

0:07:17 > 0:07:21I would do the recipes and they would say, "There is no picture this month"

0:07:21 > 0:07:24and they would just do... That is just a pretty picture.

0:07:24 > 0:07:28I would have liked a photograph that you can see a mackerel,

0:07:28 > 0:07:30a Dover sole and a lemon sole.

0:07:30 > 0:07:33We couldn't get away with doing this now,

0:07:33 > 0:07:36we have to show them what the finished dish is going to look like.

0:07:36 > 0:07:38We just can't get away with that.

0:07:38 > 0:07:40There is another interesting piece here that

0:07:40 > 0:07:43I thought seemed out of character for you. Do you remember this?

0:07:43 > 0:07:47Good gracious me, do I remember that?

0:07:47 > 0:07:51I can remember a huge argument with the editor.

0:07:51 > 0:07:55The magazine industry, or so I was told,

0:07:55 > 0:07:59was hard up and we were beginning to buy in pictures.

0:07:59 > 0:08:04And so I was presented with that, in that disgusting bright green

0:08:04 > 0:08:08and I would spend time making a recipe to fit the picture,

0:08:08 > 0:08:10and the whole thing, when you look at it, yuck.

0:08:10 > 0:08:13It is very lurid, isn't it?

0:08:13 > 0:08:16She was in ecstasy about its beautiful bright colour

0:08:16 > 0:08:19and I thought the whole combination was absolutely horrible

0:08:19 > 0:08:21but you did as your editor said.

0:08:24 > 0:08:28As the newly appointed food editor of Ideal Home magazine,

0:08:28 > 0:08:31Mary's recipes were now seen by even more readers.

0:08:31 > 0:08:34And with her growing fame it wasn't long before she came to

0:08:34 > 0:08:36the attention of book publishers.

0:08:38 > 0:08:39Ah.

0:08:40 > 0:08:43Hamlyn All Colour Cookbook.

0:08:43 > 0:08:48Brings back happy memories. That was my first major cookbook.

0:08:49 > 0:08:56And what was different about it was that each recipe had its own

0:08:56 > 0:08:59picture at the top, the recipe,

0:08:59 > 0:09:04everything in order that you used it, a simple method and that was

0:09:04 > 0:09:08one of the first books to do that and people really liked that.

0:09:08 > 0:09:12In modern times, many of the food pictures are a bit misty

0:09:12 > 0:09:16and a bit ethereal. These pictures, you see what you get

0:09:16 > 0:09:20and people can look at it and think, "I am aiming at that."

0:09:20 > 0:09:24I can remember every recipe as though it was yesterday.

0:09:24 > 0:09:29These little chocolate pots, I got on my honeymoon.

0:09:31 > 0:09:32It even had breads in here,

0:09:32 > 0:09:37I don't think Paul Holly would think too much of my breads, but not too bad.

0:09:37 > 0:09:40Put a nice shine on those buns over there.

0:09:40 > 0:09:44It turned out to be the most successful book in Britain

0:09:44 > 0:09:50at the time, and it sold in the end something plus 2 million.

0:09:50 > 0:09:55I know that I was paid about £162 per 60,000 copies sold,

0:09:55 > 0:09:59which is a pretty rum deal.

0:09:59 > 0:10:00I think they felt a bit guilty

0:10:00 > 0:10:02and when it got to 2 million, they gave us

0:10:02 > 0:10:09a presentation book in leather and we were given £1,000 as a present

0:10:09 > 0:10:11from Hamlyns and I was thrilled to bits with that.

0:10:13 > 0:10:16With her books now bestsellers,

0:10:16 > 0:10:20Mary Berry was fast becoming a household name.

0:10:20 > 0:10:23But Mary wanted to find other ways to teach the nation to cook,

0:10:23 > 0:10:26and TV was the perfect channel.

0:10:29 > 0:10:33So many of you have asked me how it is possible to avoid cakes

0:10:33 > 0:10:37splitting on the top and having that disfiguring crack, and I want to share with you the answer.

0:10:37 > 0:10:41Cooking on TV had started back in 1955

0:10:41 > 0:10:44when Fanny Cradock's television show hits the airwaves.

0:10:44 > 0:10:49David, come back, I have forgotten an egg. Come here and let me break it in for you.

0:10:49 > 0:10:53You must never miss a point even if you make a mistake.

0:10:53 > 0:10:56Fanny's show ran for 21 years,

0:10:56 > 0:11:00but by the 1970s times had moved on.

0:11:00 > 0:11:04And her love of the piping bag, brandy and cream was

0:11:04 > 0:11:08a world away from the cookery that Mary was promoting in her magazine.

0:11:08 > 0:11:12In a moment you will hear how to obtain the booklet which has

0:11:12 > 0:11:14all of the details of everything in the series.

0:11:19 > 0:11:24In 1971, Mary made her first foray into TV on Collectors World,

0:11:24 > 0:11:26hosted by Hugh Scully.

0:11:26 > 0:11:30But this would be no opportunity to show off her modern recipes.

0:11:30 > 0:11:33Someone has gone to an enormous amount of trouble and

0:11:33 > 0:11:37taken a lot of time to recreate a dinner as it might have been eaten

0:11:37 > 0:11:40in this Georgian house in the 1800s.

0:11:40 > 0:11:44And that someone is Mary Berry, the cookery editor of Ideal Home.

0:11:44 > 0:11:47I was so nervous, really nervous,

0:11:47 > 0:11:50because remember, I had not done any of that.

0:11:50 > 0:11:55It is bland and very firm, rather like chicken legs.

0:11:55 > 0:11:58Mary was in the spotlight, as was her food.

0:11:58 > 0:12:01And this was no ordinary menu.

0:12:01 > 0:12:07He wanted a pike, they wanted ox eyes, an udder, and udder pie.

0:12:07 > 0:12:11I mean how do you cook an udder when it is presented to you?

0:12:13 > 0:12:17And they wanted sparrows.

0:12:17 > 0:12:21About 30 sparrows arrived in this plastic bag, feathers on,

0:12:21 > 0:12:24and I am really scared of dead birds,

0:12:24 > 0:12:28and my brothers used to chase me with them on a stick.

0:12:28 > 0:12:33I said, "I am sorry I will roast them but you will have to take feathers off."

0:12:33 > 0:12:37I had to pretend that I was very confident about it and I certainly wasn't.

0:12:37 > 0:12:39This little chap looks so much better now than

0:12:39 > 0:12:42when I saw him when he had his feathers on.

0:12:44 > 0:12:48Mary's first appearance on British TV came at a revolutionary time for food.

0:12:48 > 0:12:53A time that saw the nation broaden its horizons and its palate.

0:12:53 > 0:12:57By the mid-'70s, cheap package holidays gave Britons

0:12:57 > 0:13:01the chance to travel abroad, to experience the sights, sounds

0:13:01 > 0:13:04and tastes of far-flung destinations.

0:13:07 > 0:13:09Where once roast beef would do,

0:13:09 > 0:13:12know the people of Britain pined for paella.

0:13:14 > 0:13:19To cater for this demand, foreign product started to hit the shelves.

0:13:19 > 0:13:23Olive oil and spaghetti both made their debut,

0:13:23 > 0:13:25as well as the avocado pear,

0:13:25 > 0:13:28which caused confusion with shoppers who complained that it did

0:13:28 > 0:13:30not taste very good with custard.

0:13:32 > 0:13:36Mary was at the forefront of this food revolution and one dish she was

0:13:36 > 0:13:41quick to promote was a little-known Italian main course called lasagne.

0:13:43 > 0:13:45Today in her own kitchen,

0:13:45 > 0:13:50Mary is going to recreate the dish following her original 1970s recipe.

0:13:50 > 0:13:52This was a lasagne al forno.

0:13:52 > 0:13:55and I tried to make it as authentic as possible.

0:13:55 > 0:13:59And it is really quite similar to what we do today.

0:14:01 > 0:14:06To make the Ragu sauce, Mary mixes bacon and mince with garlic, onion,

0:14:06 > 0:14:11celery and thyme and then fries them in that old fashioned staple, dripping.

0:14:12 > 0:14:17We were beginning to know in 1976 that it was good to use a little

0:14:17 > 0:14:21less fat, but we were still putting the odd blob of dripping in the pan.

0:14:21 > 0:14:25Now none of us have dripping.

0:14:25 > 0:14:29My husband would like us to have dripping in the fridge to get that

0:14:29 > 0:14:33nice meaty jelly on the bottom put on toast, but there is no chance he is getting it.

0:14:33 > 0:14:40Now I will add the stock and bring it to the boil.

0:14:40 > 0:14:42I have some redcurrant jelly

0:14:42 > 0:14:45because I am going to add lots of tomato puree,

0:14:45 > 0:14:50which is quite sharp, and I would suggest to people that

0:14:50 > 0:14:54if you bought tomato puree in a can, a big can, you could use

0:14:54 > 0:15:01a bit of it and freeze the rest because often it goes to waste.

0:15:01 > 0:15:03You have a tin of it and you have it in the fridge

0:15:03 > 0:15:07and you carefully cover it up and then one week later you lift the lid

0:15:07 > 0:15:11and you see a nice little grey fur on the top and you chuck it in the bin.

0:15:11 > 0:15:15Far better when you have taken off what you want in one dish,

0:15:15 > 0:15:18to take the rest out and put it into an ice cube tray,

0:15:18 > 0:15:22freeze it and then add it when you want it.

0:15:24 > 0:15:28So I am now going to let that simmer with the lid on and you can do that

0:15:28 > 0:15:32on the hob like this or put it into the oven, it will take about an hour.

0:15:32 > 0:15:39For the bechamel or white sauce, Mary cooks butter and flour before adding milk and Dijon mustard.

0:15:39 > 0:15:43So this was becoming quite popular to make at home.

0:15:43 > 0:15:46People already were making spaghetti Bolognese

0:15:46 > 0:15:49but this was becoming very, very popular.

0:15:49 > 0:15:53And it was a good thing for entertaining.

0:15:53 > 0:15:57Another good thing was freezers were becoming popular,

0:15:57 > 0:16:00people were having freezers in their own homes.

0:16:00 > 0:16:05First of all the chest ones and then upright ones.

0:16:05 > 0:16:08And lasagne was perfect for freezing.

0:16:08 > 0:16:12You could make it just as I am doing today, assemble the whole thing

0:16:12 > 0:16:15and put it into the freezer for a party in two weeks' time.

0:16:17 > 0:16:21Today, lasagne is a simple and quick dish to prepare.

0:16:21 > 0:16:24Back in the '70s it wasn't quite so easy.

0:16:24 > 0:16:29In 1976 there was no pre-cooked pasta,

0:16:29 > 0:16:34Pasta had to be cooked in boiling water until it was soft.

0:16:34 > 0:16:36And I decided that was a real bore to do

0:16:36 > 0:16:41so I came to this idea of making the sauces a little bit thinner

0:16:41 > 0:16:46so you could actually put the pasta in the layers without

0:16:46 > 0:16:49cooking it first so that the pasta will take the moisture

0:16:49 > 0:16:55from the sauces and cook in the time that it normally does in the oven.

0:16:55 > 0:16:58And then of course a few years later you had this pasta

0:16:58 > 0:17:03manufactured that you did not have to precook so that worry was gone.

0:17:05 > 0:17:09So that is our lasagne. Completed and ready for the oven.

0:17:16 > 0:17:20That's...quite heavy. Doesn't that look good?

0:17:22 > 0:17:24That's the 1976 lasagne.

0:17:27 > 0:17:30And the pasta is absolutely tender.

0:17:31 > 0:17:36It looks good, it looks very meaty, not too much pasta. Let's have a go.

0:17:41 > 0:17:46It is very, very hot. And it is very, very good.

0:17:46 > 0:17:49I don't put celery in my lasagne now

0:17:49 > 0:17:54but I think I will go back to my old one, it really is very good.

0:17:55 > 0:17:59By the early '70s, Mary was an established food writer and author

0:17:59 > 0:18:03but her big break in TV came when she was asked to present

0:18:03 > 0:18:06a food slot on the Good Afternoon show with Judith Chalmers.

0:18:08 > 0:18:1140 years on, the two lifelong friends are meeting up

0:18:11 > 0:18:14to look back on one of Mary's earliest appearances.

0:18:15 > 0:18:18'Hello, some of us have been feeling the effects of...'

0:18:18 > 0:18:20Oh, my God!

0:18:20 > 0:18:23I look like my daughter.

0:18:23 > 0:18:26'Mary, what have you worked out?'

0:18:26 > 0:18:31'I thought casserole would be a good idea

0:18:31 > 0:18:35'because we are asked to use gas at off-peak times.'

0:18:35 > 0:18:38That awful voice, it sounds like the Queen.

0:18:38 > 0:18:42I am putting three onions in.

0:18:42 > 0:18:45You made people feel always that they could do it, Mary.

0:18:45 > 0:18:50Judy, I was so nervous and I didn't know where to look,

0:18:50 > 0:18:53whether I talked to you or whether I looked straight to the camera.

0:18:53 > 0:18:57You said to me, "Talk to one person.

0:18:57 > 0:19:01"They might be doing the ironing and if you are not interesting

0:19:01 > 0:19:02"and fun they will turn to the other side."

0:19:02 > 0:19:07Well, a good idea is to use the old haybox method.

0:19:07 > 0:19:10- I say haybox method, perhaps you weren't a girl guide.- I wasn't.

0:19:10 > 0:19:12'At guide camp, we would...'

0:19:12 > 0:19:15I would get everything ready the day before

0:19:15 > 0:19:21and arrive at Thames Television and they would build the whole scene.

0:19:21 > 0:19:23But of course the drawers didn't open.

0:19:23 > 0:19:27I was washing lettuce or something and I turn the tap,

0:19:27 > 0:19:32and someone would signal to one of the props people,

0:19:32 > 0:19:35they would turn the handle and out would come the water,

0:19:35 > 0:19:39I would chat away to you and under the sink there was just a bucket

0:19:39 > 0:19:44and no proper plumbing, so the water, as I was washing and chatting,

0:19:44 > 0:19:48would go into the bucket and I can remember on one occasion,

0:19:48 > 0:19:52the water filled the bucket underneath and we were flooded. And you were in

0:19:52 > 0:19:55your best shoes and you are trying to say, "Turn the tap off!"

0:19:55 > 0:20:00There we are, mix the coleslaw all together with the sauce.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03Shall we tip it into this dish?

0:20:06 > 0:20:11I still meet people now who say, "I can remember

0:20:11 > 0:20:16"sitting down at two o'clock to Good Afternoon, feeding my baby.

0:20:16 > 0:20:21"And the baby is now 40." I think it's years and years ago, isn't it?

0:20:21 > 0:20:25'And just some curry powder.'

0:20:25 > 0:20:30With the growing demands of TV and a flourishing writing career,

0:20:30 > 0:20:32these were busy days for Mary.

0:20:32 > 0:20:34When she did find time for a break

0:20:34 > 0:20:37she and her family would head west to the Devon coast.

0:20:42 > 0:20:45Summers in Devon have been a tradition in Mary's family

0:20:45 > 0:20:47for as long as she can remember.

0:20:48 > 0:20:53We would always come to this part of Devon for our summer holidays.

0:20:55 > 0:20:59I can remember such happy times as a child.

0:21:02 > 0:21:07I never remember a wet holiday. We went on the beach all the time.

0:21:13 > 0:21:16My father was a very keen photographer

0:21:16 > 0:21:20and I can remember Dad saying, "For goodness sake, smile, you lot!"

0:21:24 > 0:21:28It was awfully strange, I was looking for a birthday card in a shop

0:21:28 > 0:21:30and I was looking along the racks

0:21:30 > 0:21:33and suddenly I came across a very familiar picture.

0:21:34 > 0:21:39It was a picture of my mother, my brother

0:21:39 > 0:21:43and a little rather fat me in a knitted swimsuit.

0:21:43 > 0:21:49And it was entered into a competition in 1938 in one of the newspapers

0:21:49 > 0:21:51and it was the photograph of the year.

0:21:53 > 0:21:56We have this picture at home on the wall,

0:21:56 > 0:21:59it has very happy memories for me.

0:22:00 > 0:22:03Decades later, in the 1970s,

0:22:03 > 0:22:06Mary would bring her own children to the beaches of Devon.

0:22:07 > 0:22:10With a busy career at home, these trips were precious.

0:22:10 > 0:22:14A chance to spend quality time with her family.

0:22:14 > 0:22:17I think they were the happiest days, when the children were young.

0:22:17 > 0:22:23And we would always take a picnic, paddle, made sand castles,

0:22:23 > 0:22:27cricket on the beach. And we came back here year after year.

0:22:29 > 0:22:31It was a great time in my life.

0:22:33 > 0:22:36For Mary, this place holds strong memories.

0:22:36 > 0:22:40The excitement of youth and the fulfilment of motherhood.

0:22:40 > 0:22:41Even on holiday,

0:22:41 > 0:22:45Mary couldn't pass up the chance to improve her culinary skills.

0:22:45 > 0:22:49In Salcombe they had the most wonderful bakers

0:22:49 > 0:22:54and in the mornings we would go down to get croissants and bread.

0:22:54 > 0:22:59It seemed to be so good, and I got chatting to Jenny, who owns

0:22:59 > 0:23:01the bakery, and I said, "Do you think I could come and bake with you?"

0:23:01 > 0:23:06Because they were quite ahead of their time, making croissants.

0:23:07 > 0:23:13The hours fitted in very well because we would all have supper about six,

0:23:13 > 0:23:16the children were exhausted so they went to bed,

0:23:16 > 0:23:18and I used to go to bed with them.

0:23:18 > 0:23:22So I had a kip until around 11, then I would walk down the hill

0:23:22 > 0:23:26to the bakery and became alive again, I really enjoyed what I did.

0:23:26 > 0:23:28I was learning all the time

0:23:28 > 0:23:31and I would be back with the bag of croissants for breakfast.

0:23:32 > 0:23:35Paul thought I had a slate loose.

0:23:35 > 0:23:39To him it was mad but I do not think I am a workaholic,

0:23:39 > 0:23:42what I do is something I enjoy, I don't think of it as work.

0:23:46 > 0:23:49While Mary and her family spent summers on the Devon coast,

0:23:49 > 0:23:53Christmas was always held at her parents' house in Bath.

0:23:53 > 0:23:56Every year festivities started on Christmas Eve,

0:23:56 > 0:23:58with her mother Marjorie's fish pie.

0:24:04 > 0:24:08This is the family fish pie, the Berry family fish pie.

0:24:08 > 0:24:11We have had it every Christmas Eve.

0:24:11 > 0:24:15We used to go down to my parents' for Christmas

0:24:15 > 0:24:19and we would all be in the car, my mother-in-law, the dog, everything,

0:24:19 > 0:24:23and the children would always say, "Can't wait for Granny's fish pie.

0:24:23 > 0:24:24And we love it.

0:24:25 > 0:24:28To start her fish pie, Mary fries onion

0:24:28 > 0:24:31and then makes white sauce before adding fresh haddock.

0:24:31 > 0:24:33But it wasn't always this way.

0:24:35 > 0:24:38In my childhood time, every Sunday you had a roast

0:24:38 > 0:24:44and then you would have on Monday, cold meat, Tuesday, it would be made

0:24:44 > 0:24:48into a pie, a shepherds pie, cottage pie, and it is the same with fish.

0:24:48 > 0:24:51If you look in old recipe books,

0:24:51 > 0:24:54fish pie always started by being leftover fish.

0:24:54 > 0:24:57I think it is much nicer to start with fresh fish.

0:24:57 > 0:25:00The fish and the sauce is just cooked.

0:25:00 > 0:25:03And I'm going to pour that into there.

0:25:03 > 0:25:08This is the very same pie dish that my ma used,

0:25:08 > 0:25:12and it's got a big chip in the side, and I don't mind one bit.

0:25:12 > 0:25:15Blow health and safety - it's in the dishwasher every time I use it.

0:25:15 > 0:25:20It's a good family size. This could well serve about eight people.

0:25:20 > 0:25:24Mum always welcomed everybody.

0:25:24 > 0:25:26All the boyfriends I ever had

0:25:26 > 0:25:29- whether she liked them or whether she didn't. I never knew.

0:25:29 > 0:25:31She welcomed everybody at home.

0:25:31 > 0:25:33There was always something in the fridge.

0:25:33 > 0:25:36She would make something out of nothing.

0:25:36 > 0:25:39And I've learned that when you open the fridge,

0:25:39 > 0:25:42before you think what's for supper, you use up what's there.

0:25:42 > 0:25:44I am quite frugal like that.

0:25:44 > 0:25:47But, on the other hand, if there was a lobster around the corner,

0:25:47 > 0:25:49I'd like that too.

0:25:49 > 0:25:51Following her mother's recipe,

0:25:51 > 0:25:54Mary tops the mixture with a layer of boiled eggs.

0:25:54 > 0:25:56That may be too much egg for some people,

0:25:56 > 0:25:59but when Mum used to do it we had chickens,

0:25:59 > 0:26:03and we always had an abundance of eggs.

0:26:03 > 0:26:06Push them down so that they're absolutely level,

0:26:06 > 0:26:08and all we've got to do is put the potato on top.

0:26:08 > 0:26:10And I have my mother's ricer.

0:26:10 > 0:26:15I'm not too sure if it wasn't her mother's before her.

0:26:15 > 0:26:18It is an excellent bit of machinery.

0:26:18 > 0:26:21You put the potato in there and squash it down,

0:26:21 > 0:26:24and you let the little worms come out.

0:26:24 > 0:26:27And of course the children love to do this.

0:26:27 > 0:26:31When I'm making this, if they're passing,

0:26:31 > 0:26:34when the little grandchildren are here, they love to push it through.

0:26:34 > 0:26:37They think it's a great machine.

0:26:37 > 0:26:41And then just push that so it's evenly over the top,

0:26:41 > 0:26:43and it gives it a lovely crunchy top.

0:26:43 > 0:26:48So there we are, into the oven for about 30 minutes.

0:27:01 > 0:27:03That looks a bit of all right.

0:27:03 > 0:27:07Perfect golden brown - quite homely, bubbling at the sides.

0:27:07 > 0:27:11It brings back really happy memories when I look at this.

0:27:11 > 0:27:15It's something that's been passed down from generation to generation,

0:27:15 > 0:27:19and it certainly will go on. And that's as it should be.

0:27:19 > 0:27:23Can you see the sauce underneath is runny.

0:27:23 > 0:27:26It's just a perfect consistency.

0:27:26 > 0:27:29You know what's missing? We always had peas with it.

0:27:29 > 0:27:35And in the old days it would be big great peas.

0:27:35 > 0:27:37But in our house now, we have petit pois,

0:27:37 > 0:27:39because it is a special occasion.

0:27:46 > 0:27:47That's what I remember.

0:27:49 > 0:27:51Throughout the 1970s,

0:27:51 > 0:27:54Mary's fame continued to grow.

0:27:54 > 0:27:56Her magazine readership rose ever higher

0:27:56 > 0:28:00and by the early '80s she was fronting her own television show.

0:28:01 > 0:28:03I had been doing television in London -

0:28:03 > 0:28:07packing up everything, kitchen built up there -

0:28:07 > 0:28:08and that was a real chore.

0:28:08 > 0:28:13And I persuaded the producer, Diana Potter -

0:28:13 > 0:28:16please could we do it in my own house.

0:28:16 > 0:28:21Because it would be much easier, there would be running water,

0:28:21 > 0:28:23you wouldn't have to build the scene...

0:28:23 > 0:28:24So she said OK.

0:28:24 > 0:28:27What do you want to do?

0:28:27 > 0:28:31So we did the first one, I think, was Mary Berry At Home. It was lovely.

0:28:31 > 0:28:33And I always used to start the programme

0:28:33 > 0:28:35with walking the dog around the village pond.

0:28:35 > 0:28:40And when that music set up, you knew you were on the go. It was lovely.

0:28:40 > 0:28:42Hello, welcome to the new series.

0:28:42 > 0:28:46There are going to be six programmes over the next three weeks

0:28:46 > 0:28:49on Tuesdays and Wednesdays at this time.

0:28:49 > 0:28:52And they're all going to be here in my own kitchen at home.

0:28:52 > 0:28:53Which is nice for me!

0:28:53 > 0:28:57Gosh, that was just so wonderful to be able to prepare everything

0:28:57 > 0:29:02ahead in your own home, everything worked, so we set to and did it.

0:29:02 > 0:29:04But it was so different.

0:29:04 > 0:29:08We took the main window out in my kitchen

0:29:08 > 0:29:12because we had two cameramen, and they went in the garden

0:29:12 > 0:29:15because the worktop was in front of the window.

0:29:15 > 0:29:17Which made the kitchen jolly cold, and I'm a cold mortal,

0:29:17 > 0:29:21so we had a blow heater at my feet, so I didn't get cold.

0:29:21 > 0:29:24If you cook it in a water-surround, the French call it "bain-marie",

0:29:24 > 0:29:27you'll find that you get nice even baking,

0:29:27 > 0:29:29and this will take just about two hours.

0:29:29 > 0:29:31So, I'm going to put it in the oven.

0:29:31 > 0:29:34On one occasion I was making a chocolate cake

0:29:34 > 0:29:38and I was talking to camera and all of a sudden there was a dog -

0:29:38 > 0:29:41our dog, Wellington.

0:29:41 > 0:29:44Her little face came up over the front here,

0:29:44 > 0:29:48and I went on looking at the camera and beating away,

0:29:48 > 0:29:50and she took all the chocolate.

0:29:50 > 0:29:53But I went on beating, because I'd learned by then,

0:29:53 > 0:29:56that you didn't stop until they said - "Stop!"

0:29:56 > 0:30:00So I went on, and then at the very end I said to the cameraman,

0:30:00 > 0:30:02"Why didn't you tell me to stop?

0:30:02 > 0:30:04"What will the viewers say?"

0:30:04 > 0:30:08And they said, "We knew what was happening and filmed straight

0:30:08 > 0:30:12into your bowl and all we saw was you making the chocolate mixture."

0:30:15 > 0:30:19During the 1980s, Mary continued to champion simple recipes

0:30:19 > 0:30:20that anyone could make at home.

0:30:21 > 0:30:25But this was the decade that saw the birth of the ready-meal.

0:30:25 > 0:30:28And one piece of technology more than any other,

0:30:28 > 0:30:32made that possible - the microwave.

0:30:32 > 0:30:36It was a kitchen appliance born from the most unlikely of places.

0:30:40 > 0:30:44- MALE NARRATOR:- Radar - mystery name of an even more mysterious weapon,

0:30:44 > 0:30:47result of the inventive genius of the 2,400 men

0:30:47 > 0:30:49the RAF called "boffins".

0:30:49 > 0:30:54Dr Percy Spencer, who developed radar during the Second World War,

0:30:54 > 0:30:56was in his laboratory in 1946

0:30:56 > 0:30:58when he stopped by a magnetron -

0:30:58 > 0:31:02the power tube that creates microwaves to run a radar set.

0:31:02 > 0:31:06He noticed that the chocolate bar in his pocket had begun to melt.

0:31:06 > 0:31:09Thinking the microwaves were responsible,

0:31:09 > 0:31:12he experimented with an egg. Which exploded.

0:31:12 > 0:31:14It would be another 40 years before the microwave oven

0:31:14 > 0:31:16caught on in the UK.

0:31:16 > 0:31:20But when it arrived it would cause a revolution in home-cooking.

0:31:20 > 0:31:22Why did you get a microwave cooker?

0:31:22 > 0:31:24Well, it's small and I haven't got much room,

0:31:24 > 0:31:26and it's a much quicker way of having a hot meal

0:31:26 > 0:31:28whenever I want one, basically.

0:31:28 > 0:31:32Mm. Right, now, that's the meat in. I'll just do the veg.

0:31:32 > 0:31:34I don't use the microwave very much,

0:31:34 > 0:31:37but one thing I find it's very useful for

0:31:37 > 0:31:39is taking the juice out of lemons.

0:31:39 > 0:31:42I find, if I've got to make something like a lemon tart,

0:31:42 > 0:31:44you know, using five lemons, say -

0:31:44 > 0:31:47to get the juice out takes an awful lot of effort.

0:31:47 > 0:31:49And I haven't got great strong muscles!

0:31:49 > 0:31:54So this is where a microwave earns its keep.

0:31:54 > 0:31:59Take a lemon, cut it in half, across the lemon,

0:31:59 > 0:32:00then put it in a bowl,

0:32:00 > 0:32:02to catch some of the juice,

0:32:02 > 0:32:05and just heat it until it's very hot.

0:32:05 > 0:32:08That'll take about 30 seconds.

0:32:08 > 0:32:11If you've got a lot of lemons, it's going to take a bit longer.

0:32:11 > 0:32:16So, let's put it on full power - which it is.

0:32:20 > 0:32:22So it's whizzing round.

0:32:22 > 0:32:25PING! There it is.

0:32:27 > 0:32:32And there's just a little bit of juice, in the bottom there.

0:32:32 > 0:32:35The juice is beginning to come out without being asked,

0:32:35 > 0:32:38so when you put it on to get the juice out

0:32:38 > 0:32:41it comes out without any pressure,

0:32:41 > 0:32:45and you're not exhausted when you're doing, say, five or six lemons.

0:32:45 > 0:32:47And you watch how much juice you get out.

0:32:51 > 0:32:53All that out of one lemon.

0:32:54 > 0:32:56Without any effort.

0:32:59 > 0:33:04As the 1980s came to a close, Mary's career was still in full swing.

0:33:04 > 0:33:08Now aged 55, her children Tom, William and Annabel

0:33:08 > 0:33:13had all grown up and left home to start their own lives.

0:33:15 > 0:33:20I'm very lucky. The children always wanted to come home at weekends.

0:33:20 > 0:33:25And Will came back from Bristol Poly on the Friday night.

0:33:26 > 0:33:28He hadn't been home for a few weekends,

0:33:28 > 0:33:31so I thought "I'll do roast lamb, cos it's his favourite."

0:33:34 > 0:33:36We had the meal in the dining room.

0:33:36 > 0:33:38Now we only have Sunday lunch in the dining room,

0:33:38 > 0:33:41but I thought they're all going to be here, I'll make it special.

0:33:41 > 0:33:46So we had roast lamb, mint sauce, redcurrant jelly - the works!

0:33:47 > 0:33:52I can remember Will walking through the door on that Friday night

0:33:52 > 0:33:54and saying, "Mum, who's coming?"

0:33:54 > 0:33:56And I said, "It's you!

0:33:56 > 0:34:01"It's so lovely to have you home, and Annabel is here, and Tom too."

0:34:01 > 0:34:04So we had a nice family meal.

0:34:07 > 0:34:12And then on Saturday, he asked if he could borrow the car.

0:34:13 > 0:34:15It was a glorious January day,

0:34:15 > 0:34:20and it was sort of one o'clock and he wasn't home.

0:34:22 > 0:34:26The doorbell rang, and there was a policeman there.

0:34:26 > 0:34:30And immediately then I knew why.

0:34:33 > 0:34:36And he said, "There's been an accident and, erm...

0:34:39 > 0:34:42.."I'm sorry to say, your son is dead."

0:34:45 > 0:34:50So we both quickly got in the car and went to Wickham hospital.

0:34:50 > 0:34:52I don't know, there seemed so many corridors,

0:34:52 > 0:34:57and we were waiting in a room, and really they were so understanding.

0:34:59 > 0:35:03And then they said, "Would you like to see William?"

0:35:03 > 0:35:09And he just look so beautiful and so lovely - his little cold face.

0:35:09 > 0:35:11And it was nice to say farewell.

0:35:22 > 0:35:25As usual, the next day, we went to church.

0:35:31 > 0:35:35And there's a plaque in church which happened to catch my eye -

0:35:35 > 0:35:37it was just on the left.

0:35:37 > 0:35:44And it was the Busbys had lost their three sons in the First World War.

0:35:46 > 0:35:48And I looked and I thought...

0:35:48 > 0:35:51I knew how I was feeling having lost one -

0:35:51 > 0:35:55how would Emma be feeling, having lost all three?

0:35:55 > 0:35:57In a way, I thought, erm...

0:35:58 > 0:36:01Well, we're just so lucky to have the other two.

0:36:01 > 0:36:07And I began to think, we had him for 19 years. And he was such fun.

0:36:07 > 0:36:10And, you know, we have great, great memories.

0:36:13 > 0:36:16I didn't really want to work in London after that,

0:36:16 > 0:36:19because I didn't want to leave Paul.

0:36:21 > 0:36:24It was a great comfort to us both to have each other.

0:36:24 > 0:36:26Your lifelong partner.

0:36:28 > 0:36:30I was so lucky to have him.

0:36:34 > 0:36:38Following William's death, Mary left her working life in London,

0:36:38 > 0:36:40retreating to her home in Buckinghamshire,

0:36:40 > 0:36:45and for the first time in her life, she turned her back on cooking.

0:36:47 > 0:36:51One year later, Mary felt strong enough to face the world again.

0:36:51 > 0:36:53But on her terms.

0:36:53 > 0:36:57Based in her own kitchen, she started the Aga workshop.

0:36:57 > 0:36:59It was the perfect way to get back to work,

0:36:59 > 0:37:02yet remain close to friends and family.

0:37:03 > 0:37:06I thought, well, how do I start a cookery school?

0:37:06 > 0:37:11And so, what I did, was write to all my friends that were journalists

0:37:11 > 0:37:15and said come and have a cookery demonstration on the Aga.

0:37:15 > 0:37:18I think we had two days of it.

0:37:18 > 0:37:20And immediately they went back

0:37:20 > 0:37:24and wrote about their day and said what they'd learned,

0:37:24 > 0:37:29and people started ringing and saying when could we come to the school?

0:37:29 > 0:37:32So we made two dates. Then another two.

0:37:32 > 0:37:35And from that day on for the next 12 years, we never advertised.

0:37:35 > 0:37:40It was always personal recommendation and we gave people a right day out!

0:37:41 > 0:37:47In 12 years, the workshop attracted over 14,000 people to Mary's kitchen.

0:37:47 > 0:37:51Book writing proved another way for Mary to continue

0:37:51 > 0:37:54doing what she loved, from the comfort of home.

0:37:54 > 0:37:58It's an occupation she continues to this very day.

0:37:58 > 0:38:00I've always been very fortunate.

0:38:00 > 0:38:02I've never had to suggest or ask a publisher

0:38:02 > 0:38:05if I could write a book and would they publish it.

0:38:05 > 0:38:07It's always been the publisher coming to me

0:38:07 > 0:38:10and that's quite a nice feeling.

0:38:10 > 0:38:14Then I have one or two things that I think about before I even start -

0:38:14 > 0:38:21I want not too many ingredients, every ingredient must be available

0:38:21 > 0:38:25all over the country, and not difficult to get.

0:38:25 > 0:38:28And then we test the recipe.

0:38:28 > 0:38:32I say "we" because we are a team here.

0:38:32 > 0:38:36Lucy Young has been working with Mary for over 20 years.

0:38:36 > 0:38:38And alongside Lucinda McCord,

0:38:38 > 0:38:42they help Mary to test her recipes before they go into print.

0:38:42 > 0:38:46Gherkin would go very well. I love sweet gherkins, but...

0:38:46 > 0:38:47I don't think it needs it, does it?

0:38:47 > 0:38:49And if you take these prawns and take...

0:38:49 > 0:38:52'Testing takes quite a lot of time.'

0:38:52 > 0:38:59It's got to be so perfect that everybody who does it must have success.

0:38:59 > 0:39:01- I'll let you have some in a minute. - After you!

0:39:03 > 0:39:07That's absolutely fine. Put a quarter of that on top.

0:39:07 > 0:39:11I always ask the publisher to pay for the ingredients,

0:39:11 > 0:39:18because it means that I will test them as many times as it needs to get perfect.

0:39:18 > 0:39:21I have a slight feeling, if they weren't paying,

0:39:21 > 0:39:24I'd say "Maybe that's good enough." I hope I wouldn't.

0:39:24 > 0:39:27Before it goes on the table we would put a little dressing

0:39:27 > 0:39:31around the outside, and a tiny bit of celery salt.

0:39:31 > 0:39:33- So you could make that in the morning, could you?- Exactly.

0:39:33 > 0:39:38I always say to people, just do as I say first time round,

0:39:38 > 0:39:41and then make your own additions.

0:39:41 > 0:39:46We're all brought up, aren't we, never to write on books,

0:39:46 > 0:39:49but sometimes if I'm giving a talk somewhere

0:39:49 > 0:39:53people bring a really old tatty book without a cover,

0:39:53 > 0:39:57gravy all over the side, little notes on the side...

0:39:57 > 0:39:59I'm chuffed to bits to sign it!

0:39:59 > 0:40:02Because they've used it, they've loved it,

0:40:02 > 0:40:04and they've had success with it.

0:40:06 > 0:40:09If ever the girl who left school with just two O levels,

0:40:09 > 0:40:12and failed at English, thought she couldn't write,

0:40:12 > 0:40:15those doubts must be long forgotten.

0:40:15 > 0:40:18Today Mary has over 80 cookbooks to her name,

0:40:18 > 0:40:21which have sold in excess of six million copies.

0:40:24 > 0:40:27During her career, Mary has witnessed many food fashions

0:40:27 > 0:40:32come and go, but throughout she's stayed true to her loyal readers.

0:40:32 > 0:40:36But even in the early 1990s, after 30 years of food writing,

0:40:36 > 0:40:40Mary still had one weak spot - bread.

0:40:40 > 0:40:43So when she was asked to write a book for Aga-owners,

0:40:43 > 0:40:46to be delivered with every new cooker,

0:40:46 > 0:40:48Mary was horrified to discover

0:40:48 > 0:40:52that the publishers wanted a whole chapter on breadmaking.

0:40:54 > 0:40:57I was daunted at the thought of having to write

0:40:57 > 0:40:58a whole chapter on breadmaking.

0:40:58 > 0:41:01I just didn't have the confidence.

0:41:01 > 0:41:03So I came here.

0:41:03 > 0:41:06And "here" is the Devon home of Tom Jaine,

0:41:06 > 0:41:10former editor of The Good Food Guide,

0:41:10 > 0:41:14and the man who taught the nation's Queen of Cakes, to bake bread.

0:41:14 > 0:41:18I have to think you for teaching me how to make proper bread.

0:41:18 > 0:41:20And I even gave you a little mention in the book.

0:41:21 > 0:41:26It's saying that I had blissful two days in deepest Devon

0:41:26 > 0:41:31with your family, goats, ducks, sheep and all.

0:41:31 > 0:41:34- And they had names! - Well, they did. Ajax and Flash.

0:41:34 > 0:41:36Yes. No longer, I'm afraid.

0:41:36 > 0:41:41But the bread then was different to what we would do now, actually, I think.

0:41:41 > 0:41:44It was different.

0:41:44 > 0:41:46The yeast was the main difference.

0:41:46 > 0:41:49Everybody used fresh yeast

0:41:49 > 0:41:53and you also explained to me that it should be lukewarm water.

0:41:53 > 0:41:56Everything had to be warm.

0:41:56 > 0:41:59But now you say that you use cold.

0:41:59 > 0:42:04Yes. I tell you when heat is still necessary - or advisable -

0:42:04 > 0:42:06is when you're making wholemeal.

0:42:06 > 0:42:12And there you do like to keep your rising temperature all the way through the process.

0:42:12 > 0:42:15Because the wholemeal is much more...um...

0:42:15 > 0:42:18Well, it's much more fragile, really.

0:42:18 > 0:42:21Mary, go on, you get your hands filthy.

0:42:21 > 0:42:25- And, of course, most people now would do this in a machine.- They would.

0:42:25 > 0:42:27With a dough hook. And I don't see too much wrong with that.

0:42:27 > 0:42:29What do you think? TOM LAUGHS

0:42:29 > 0:42:32You know, the really good thing about this, is the large bowl!

0:42:32 > 0:42:34I'm not getting flour all over me.

0:42:34 > 0:42:38- No, no, you're still looking quite nice, Mary.- So far so good.

0:42:38 > 0:42:42Still got some at the bottom there. Isn't really coming up.

0:42:42 > 0:42:44- Do I have to go on working? - I've got an answer.

0:42:44 > 0:42:47I think. Which would be a little bit of oil -

0:42:47 > 0:42:50we used to say butter, sometimes, in the dough,

0:42:50 > 0:42:53but nowadays oil is easier.

0:42:53 > 0:42:55- Just a drop?- A tiny bit.

0:42:55 > 0:42:59Now that's a good idea, because it's just going to take up the rest.

0:42:59 > 0:43:02- Now that to me looks all right. - It's not bad.

0:43:02 > 0:43:04We could knead that on the table now.

0:43:04 > 0:43:08So, I'll move the bowl away, and you can slap it down there,

0:43:08 > 0:43:10and I'd better do a bit of work.

0:43:10 > 0:43:12You've been floggin' your guts out!

0:43:12 > 0:43:16Now, you remember I used to make you do this for HOURS!

0:43:16 > 0:43:18You did, and it was very mean.

0:43:18 > 0:43:21- I get away with it now doing it in the machine.- Hello. Yes.

0:43:21 > 0:43:22Hello, mixer!

0:43:22 > 0:43:27No wonder you've got such muscles! I'm going to hold the table still

0:43:27 > 0:43:30or we'll be out of the window, in a moment.

0:43:30 > 0:43:33Tom and Mary are going to make three white tin loaves.

0:43:33 > 0:43:37Once the dough has proved it is split into sections...

0:43:37 > 0:43:40and left to prove again for another three hours...

0:43:40 > 0:43:42- Looks pretty good. - Very nice. very nice.

0:43:42 > 0:43:47..before being taken outside and placed in Tom's special bread oven.

0:43:47 > 0:43:49After 20 minutes, they're ready.

0:43:51 > 0:43:53Oh, gosh, I remember that.

0:43:53 > 0:43:56And you swore by it - said it made the very best bread.

0:43:56 > 0:43:57Well, it does! It does!

0:43:57 > 0:44:01It's not like a modern oven, with air going through all the time.

0:44:01 > 0:44:02There's no ventilation.

0:44:02 > 0:44:06So it's a perfect sort of environment for baking bread.

0:44:09 > 0:44:13- That's the first. - It's a big deep oven, isn't it?

0:44:13 > 0:44:15It is. Yeah. You can do 20 loaves in there.

0:44:17 > 0:44:21I've got my gloves on. Hot, hot, hot!

0:44:21 > 0:44:23Oh, they're a good colour, aren't they?

0:44:23 > 0:44:26I can't stand it when the tins stick!

0:44:26 > 0:44:28Well, they're well used, they won't stick.

0:44:28 > 0:44:31That looks a good white tin loaf.

0:44:31 > 0:44:35Yeah, they're great. Perfect for sandwiches. Wonderful for toast.

0:44:35 > 0:44:38What England has existed on for 150 years.

0:44:38 > 0:44:40And it's got a lovely crust.

0:44:40 > 0:44:45I'm doing it halfway down, so we can see what the middle's like.

0:44:45 > 0:44:48That's exactly what you do when you're judging the village show.

0:44:48 > 0:44:53- Needn't be too thin for me.- Oh, no, you've got to have them thin.

0:44:53 > 0:44:56We're lady-like here, you know!

0:44:56 > 0:44:59- Right, the moment I've been waiting for!- Well, there you go.

0:44:59 > 0:45:03I like my butter like cheese - vast quantities.

0:45:03 > 0:45:05It doesn't need any jam or anything.

0:45:06 > 0:45:09CRUST CRUNCHES

0:45:12 > 0:45:14That's sheer heaven.

0:45:14 > 0:45:16Well, the honour is all mine, Mary. All mine.

0:45:16 > 0:45:18- Ohhh..! - What do you think then?

0:45:19 > 0:45:23Mm! Well, it's not bad.

0:45:25 > 0:45:29Throughout the 1990s, Mary continued her career in food.

0:45:30 > 0:45:32But as a new century dawned,

0:45:32 > 0:45:35her professional life shifted down a gear.

0:45:37 > 0:45:40After 12 years, her cookery school had shut its doors.

0:45:40 > 0:45:43Her magazine days were well behind her,

0:45:43 > 0:45:47and TV appearances were, by now, few and far between.

0:45:51 > 0:45:55So everything had got a bit quiet, and Mum doesn't like quiet.

0:45:57 > 0:45:59She was writing one or two books a year,

0:45:59 > 0:46:05and I remember looking at her, saying "Are you all right?"

0:46:05 > 0:46:08And she just looked like she wanted to be busier.

0:46:08 > 0:46:12She was not used to not having all the people around, all the hubbub.

0:46:12 > 0:46:14And I think she was bored.

0:46:15 > 0:46:18I was doing more charity demonstrations,

0:46:18 > 0:46:22I was still writing books, but time was quieter.

0:46:26 > 0:46:29And then came the telephone call to say

0:46:29 > 0:46:33would I like to be judge on the Bake Off.

0:46:33 > 0:46:38And I was chuffed to bits, because I do know about cakes.

0:46:38 > 0:46:40Every slice should look good on the plate.

0:46:40 > 0:46:44Now, just how that looks is lovely.

0:46:44 > 0:46:47Everybody is crazy about the Bake Off.

0:46:47 > 0:46:52It is quite amazing. I can't really believe it.

0:46:54 > 0:46:55It's just too bitter.

0:46:55 > 0:46:59I disagree with you, and I have got a very sweet tooth.

0:46:59 > 0:47:00I think it's plenty sweet enough.

0:47:00 > 0:47:04Paul and I are really close friends now.

0:47:05 > 0:47:11We don't always agree, but we share the love of baking, Paul and I.

0:47:11 > 0:47:13Is it dry?

0:47:13 > 0:47:15Mary Berry is the Bake Off and Bake Off is Mary Berry,

0:47:15 > 0:47:18- without a shadow of a doubt. - Absolutely.

0:47:18 > 0:47:21There's a reverence that the bakers will have towards Mary in the tents.

0:47:21 > 0:47:23Because they don't want to disappoint her.

0:47:23 > 0:47:27I think Mary brings a real authority to the Bake Off.

0:47:27 > 0:47:29It's lovely - the fruit and the cream and the sponge -

0:47:29 > 0:47:32that's absolutely fine, but it's just not cutting right,

0:47:32 > 0:47:34and it's looking a little bit untidy.

0:47:34 > 0:47:38We enjoy enormously what we do.

0:47:38 > 0:47:42And we gather that the viewers love it too.

0:47:42 > 0:47:45Her position as a judge on the Bake Off has introduced

0:47:45 > 0:47:48a whole new generation to Mary Berry,

0:47:48 > 0:47:52and has put baking on the agenda in a way she's never seen before.

0:47:52 > 0:47:54Are you getting excited down the front there?

0:47:56 > 0:48:01I'm very proud to think that Paul and I have encouraged people.

0:48:01 > 0:48:04Just like you've disturbed mine! LAUGHTER

0:48:04 > 0:48:08You meet dads and the father will say,

0:48:08 > 0:48:11"I've been baking with my daughter"

0:48:11 > 0:48:13and then you bend down and she says,

0:48:13 > 0:48:15"Yes, I made cupcakes."

0:48:15 > 0:48:20And it's really got people, families, closer, I hope.

0:48:20 > 0:48:22And people are learning that you don't need to take

0:48:22 > 0:48:26a bunch of flowers or a bottle of wine when you see friends,

0:48:26 > 0:48:28they're taking their own bake.

0:48:28 > 0:48:30And I think this is lovely.

0:48:30 > 0:48:33I'm very proud to have been part of it.

0:48:37 > 0:48:40It's been over six decades since Mary's love affair with food

0:48:40 > 0:48:44began as a student at Bath High School for Girls.

0:48:44 > 0:48:49To her father's disappointment, Mary struggled academically,

0:48:49 > 0:48:52but in domestic science, her favourite subject,

0:48:52 > 0:48:54she excelled.

0:48:54 > 0:48:56The course is still flourishing.

0:48:56 > 0:49:00And Mary's returned to the Royal High School to join today's students

0:49:00 > 0:49:04as they prepare a pudding that Mary made here over 60 years ago.

0:49:09 > 0:49:14Well, good afternoon, girls. It is lovely to be back at my old school.

0:49:14 > 0:49:17I was here in the '40s - a long time ago!

0:49:17 > 0:49:21Do you know my favourite subject was Home Economics.

0:49:21 > 0:49:25It was so much better than doing Latin and Maths.

0:49:25 > 0:49:29So today you are going to be making one of the things

0:49:29 > 0:49:33I made in my class, steamed syrup pudding.

0:49:33 > 0:49:36And I'm going to be the lucky one to taste it.

0:49:36 > 0:49:39You'll work in pairs, so off you go.

0:49:42 > 0:49:47The girls have a list of ingredients and the very recipe that Mary followed.

0:49:54 > 0:49:57And when have you done creaming before?

0:49:57 > 0:50:01I did it quite recently when we were doing cupcakes.

0:50:01 > 0:50:04- So you're really skilled at it! - We've done it quite a lot.

0:50:04 > 0:50:07It doesn't matter now but you can put a little square

0:50:07 > 0:50:10of foil, like it says, at the top.

0:50:10 > 0:50:12- Does it matter if we haven't? - It doesn't.

0:50:12 > 0:50:14And we've got so much treacle it will come out.

0:50:14 > 0:50:18- But it means that it comes out on top.- Then you take the square off.

0:50:24 > 0:50:27You really need to beat that butter and sugar until it's very light

0:50:27 > 0:50:30and fluffy to start with.

0:50:30 > 0:50:33And then when you add the other ingredients, they'll go in smoothly.

0:50:40 > 0:50:42So how are we getting on here?

0:50:42 > 0:50:46- Um, good. - But we forgot the baking powder.

0:50:46 > 0:50:48- You forgot the baking powder? - Yes.

0:50:48 > 0:50:51It actually isn't the end of the world,

0:50:51 > 0:50:53because we are using self-raising flour.

0:50:53 > 0:50:55You might not get such a rise,

0:50:55 > 0:50:58but it's very important, before you start,

0:50:58 > 0:51:02- to read the recipe through. So it's in the steamer ready.- Yep.

0:51:02 > 0:51:04And about how long is it going to take?

0:51:04 > 0:51:05Erm, 45 minutes.

0:51:05 > 0:51:09- Good, you're on the ball now.- Yes! - Though you made a mistake earlier on.

0:51:20 > 0:51:26Well, there are eight steamed sponge puddings a-steaming,

0:51:26 > 0:51:28and a lot of mirth and laughter.

0:51:28 > 0:51:31One or two of them have not followed their recipe,

0:51:31 > 0:51:36but it brings me back to the day when I did a steamed syrup pudding

0:51:36 > 0:51:38all those years ago.

0:51:38 > 0:51:40I was so proud when I took it home,

0:51:40 > 0:51:47and I opened the lid and Mum and Dad tasted it - their eyes lit up.

0:51:47 > 0:51:50And I really felt I'd done something properly.

0:51:50 > 0:51:56Suddenly, particularly my father, was taking an interest in what I did.

0:51:56 > 0:51:59It was lovely. And I couldn't wait to get back to school

0:51:59 > 0:52:01to do the next weeks's project.

0:52:02 > 0:52:04The puddings have steamed through.

0:52:04 > 0:52:09Now to see how today's students have fared with Mary's 1940s recipe.

0:52:14 > 0:52:17That's it. Over you go.

0:52:18 > 0:52:20GIGGLING

0:52:20 > 0:52:24It's difficult with small hands. That's it.

0:52:24 > 0:52:27And it should, underneath, have the most beautiful pudding.

0:52:27 > 0:52:30And do you know, that looks really, really good.

0:52:30 > 0:52:33And I can't wait to taste it.

0:52:33 > 0:52:35Right.

0:52:35 > 0:52:37I'll pinch some of the treacly top.

0:52:40 > 0:52:44- Mm! That is... What do you think? I think it's really good!- Yeah.

0:52:46 > 0:52:47So, the second one, come on.

0:52:47 > 0:52:50Looks nice and spongy.

0:52:50 > 0:52:53- Now are you going to make that when you go home?- Yeah, definitely.

0:52:53 > 0:52:56So keep the recipe and give your families a surprise.

0:52:58 > 0:53:01A lovely even texture. You must have given it a good beat.

0:53:03 > 0:53:06And that tastes...absolutely beautiful.

0:53:08 > 0:53:11I think we've got some brilliant results there.

0:53:11 > 0:53:12You're very good bakers.

0:53:12 > 0:53:15So a good round of applause for everybody!

0:53:19 > 0:53:21Throughout Mary's life,

0:53:21 > 0:53:25food has always been at the heart of family gatherings.

0:53:25 > 0:53:27Picnics were a childhood favourite

0:53:27 > 0:53:30and today Mary's preparing one for her own family.

0:53:31 > 0:53:33She's set the time and the date

0:53:33 > 0:53:35and now with the help of her daughter Annabel,

0:53:35 > 0:53:37Mary's going to make the centrepiece.

0:53:37 > 0:53:40An express chocolate cake,

0:53:40 > 0:53:45layered with white chocolate icing, and to decorate...chocolate curls.

0:53:45 > 0:53:49OK, so we've got some self-raising flour, which we'll pop in first.

0:53:50 > 0:53:52Followed by the caster sugar.

0:53:54 > 0:53:57And the cocoa.

0:53:57 > 0:53:59- And the bicarbonate of soda.- Yes.

0:53:59 > 0:54:02And the baking powder.

0:54:03 > 0:54:05And I'm cooking with your children,

0:54:05 > 0:54:10I always put a big plate underneath, because particularly little Hobie,

0:54:10 > 0:54:13when he cracks an egg on the side most of it goes on the table.

0:54:14 > 0:54:16- So everything in the bowl then?- Yes.

0:54:16 > 0:54:19And all you have to do is mix it. All so simple.

0:54:21 > 0:54:25I can remember you making one of your first cakes -

0:54:25 > 0:54:27you made William a cake.

0:54:27 > 0:54:30Can you remember that? With the tennis racket on top.

0:54:30 > 0:54:32We took it to him on his birthday at school.

0:54:32 > 0:54:34Drove it up to Scotland.

0:54:34 > 0:54:38Yes, and you did... I remember thinking will she be able to do it?

0:54:38 > 0:54:41You did a criss-cross right across the tennis racket.

0:54:41 > 0:54:43Wonder where I got that from?

0:54:43 > 0:54:46Now that's fairly equal in the tins,

0:54:46 > 0:54:48and we're going to bake those - fan 160.

0:54:50 > 0:54:51To ensure they bake evenly,

0:54:51 > 0:54:54the sponges are placed on the same shelf of the oven.

0:54:54 > 0:54:58As they cook, Mary makes the white chocolate icing.

0:54:58 > 0:55:03Now, the heat of the cream is going to melt that. Then stir it.

0:55:03 > 0:55:08Annabel spent her childhood surrounded by the trappings of Mary's celebrity.

0:55:08 > 0:55:11As a young girl, these were exciting times.

0:55:11 > 0:55:15We had the television crew from the age of about six in big tents,

0:55:15 > 0:55:18- like a circus, in the garden. - That's right.

0:55:18 > 0:55:21That was all part of life. And it was great fun.

0:55:21 > 0:55:25But also I have many happy memories of you doing demonstrations

0:55:25 > 0:55:27and you'd haul me along and we had a whale of a time.

0:55:27 > 0:55:30I can remember a demonstration in Launceston,

0:55:30 > 0:55:33and you came with me - you might have been about eight.

0:55:33 > 0:55:37And I turned on the processor without the lid on.

0:55:37 > 0:55:39It was oil - a salad dressing - you were making.

0:55:39 > 0:55:43And the oil spun around you like that. And the audience.

0:55:43 > 0:55:47- But it got all over you and you had to carry on.- I did.

0:55:47 > 0:55:50- And I think I might have cried. - You did. You cried.

0:55:50 > 0:55:53And I was more upset that you were upset.

0:55:53 > 0:55:56And we had 400 in the audience. It was group WI.

0:55:56 > 0:56:02And...when people say, "Do things go wrong?" I often remember that story.

0:56:05 > 0:56:08Once the sponges have baked for 25 minutes,

0:56:08 > 0:56:12and have been set aside to cool, the cake's ready to assemble,

0:56:12 > 0:56:15using Mary's luxurious white chocolate icing.

0:56:15 > 0:56:18- It is lovely, isn't it? - Delicious!

0:56:18 > 0:56:21So just push that all over the top,

0:56:21 > 0:56:27and you could put a spreading of redcurrant jelly underneath if you wanted to.

0:56:27 > 0:56:29And let's have this one on top.

0:56:29 > 0:56:32So many people have difficulty with white chocolate -

0:56:32 > 0:56:38but this one, using full-fat cream cheese and cream, it works.

0:56:38 > 0:56:42And you don't need to add extra sugar.

0:56:42 > 0:56:44- How about you doing a bit of decoration?- Oh, lovely.

0:56:44 > 0:56:47You were always very good at decorating.

0:56:47 > 0:56:50It's easier to manage doing curls with plain chocolate.

0:56:50 > 0:56:52Milk chocolate doesn't roll so well.

0:56:52 > 0:56:54That looks good.

0:56:54 > 0:56:58And I don't go far without my shaker with icing sugar.

0:56:58 > 0:57:00It just gives a finish.

0:57:00 > 0:57:03And that's all ready for the picnic.

0:57:03 > 0:57:04Can't wait.

0:57:15 > 0:57:16With her family assembled,

0:57:16 > 0:57:19Mary leads them out to her favourite picnic spot.

0:57:22 > 0:57:28I've really been so lucky to have had this passion for cooking and baking.

0:57:29 > 0:57:33And I've had the backing of my family.

0:57:36 > 0:57:38So lucky with it being dry.

0:57:38 > 0:57:41What a view down there!

0:57:42 > 0:57:46For 60 years since I left college, I have been cooking.

0:57:46 > 0:57:48And showing people how to cook.

0:57:49 > 0:57:52I couldn't have changed my life, really.

0:57:52 > 0:57:54It's just what I wanted to do.

0:58:00 > 0:58:04I do get people very often saying "When are you going to retire?"

0:58:04 > 0:58:07Now, why would I retire?

0:58:07 > 0:58:10I'll retire when somebody doesn't want me!

0:58:10 > 0:58:13And I'll do that quite graciously.

0:58:13 > 0:58:16CHATTER

0:58:16 > 0:58:18I am so lucky. And I know it.

0:58:35 > 0:58:38Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd