0:00:02 > 0:00:08'I am Antonio Carluccio. I am Italian through and through, but I left my dear country 50 years ago.'
0:00:08 > 0:00:10'Now I'm returning with my old friend.
0:00:11 > 0:00:16'I am Gennaro Contaldo. For 30 years me and Antonio have fought and fallen out.'
0:00:16 > 0:00:19- I prefer the ricotta. - Yeah, but I prefer everything.
0:00:19 > 0:00:23'But now we are best friends. I love him.'
0:00:23 > 0:00:27'Since we left Italy a lot has changed,
0:00:27 > 0:00:30'and we have come to see if the food has changed too.
0:00:30 > 0:00:36'We are going to the southern region of Campania where Gennaro grew up and I was born.'
0:00:36 > 0:00:41BELLS RING But this is the bells which I've been hearing since I was a little boy.
0:00:41 > 0:00:46'This is where the best Italian food comes from - pasta and pizza, tomato sauce - it is all from here.'
0:00:46 > 0:00:51The most delightful fusilli, made by hand.
0:00:51 > 0:00:56We have come to see how Campania's simple, poor food its cucina povera,
0:00:56 > 0:00:57has become loved throughout the world.
0:00:57 > 0:01:00Pizza fritta - instant food.
0:01:00 > 0:01:03And find out what has changed here since we were boys.
0:01:03 > 0:01:0824 carat gold, it must cost quite a bit of money.
0:01:08 > 0:01:10'Of course, we'll be cooking along the way.'
0:01:10 > 0:01:14Oh, why I'm cooking so good?
0:01:14 > 0:01:15'And eating.'
0:01:15 > 0:01:17Hm, hm.
0:01:17 > 0:01:21'Gennaro will be reliving his youth.'
0:01:21 > 0:01:23Oh, oh!
0:01:23 > 0:01:27'And he offers me a lunch even I can't refuse.'
0:01:27 > 0:01:29That's for you.
0:01:41 > 0:01:45Ah, the Amalfi coast - a paradise of millionaire villas and yachts.
0:01:45 > 0:01:51But it wasn't always like this. Just 60 years ago, this region
0:01:51 > 0:01:57was one of the poorest in Italy. There was no work and little money.
0:01:57 > 0:01:59This is where Gennaro was born and grew up.
0:01:59 > 0:02:01I was also born along this coast,
0:02:01 > 0:02:06but my father moved the family to northern Italy when I was a baby.
0:02:06 > 0:02:11He was lucky he had a good job, but here many families could barely make ends meet
0:02:11 > 0:02:14and lived on very little.
0:02:14 > 0:02:19Like my family. We lived on the foods that were literally around us.
0:02:19 > 0:02:23Gennaro, what is the most beautiful thing to do? To be on the Amalfi coast?
0:02:23 > 0:02:28Very ripe fruit direct from the tree, juicy.
0:02:28 > 0:02:33- You have to be careful not to have a bath. Here, Gennaro.- Thank you. - Because you are a friend.
0:02:33 > 0:02:38- The peach is one of the best fruits ever.- In the summer, yes, but...
0:02:38 > 0:02:44But I like it sort of pre-ripe because otherwise there's nothing.
0:02:44 > 0:02:47- Hm.- Hm. Yep. Very good.
0:02:49 > 0:02:50Hmm, hmm.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53When you need a lemon, what do you do?
0:02:54 > 0:02:56Look, take your pick.
0:02:56 > 0:02:58- I like the one in the middle. - This one?
0:02:58 > 0:03:03No, the one with the big beak. Yes, that one. Look at this.
0:03:03 > 0:03:06Ah, that's a wonderful one, fantastic.
0:03:06 > 0:03:10- So you can eat this one.- I know that, I know that.
0:03:10 > 0:03:14Oh. Direct from the tree.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18'We used to eat almost anything and absolutely nothing went to waste,
0:03:18 > 0:03:22'even every part of a lemon will be eaten.'
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- It goes well with all sorts of... - This one is not sharp or whatever.
0:03:28 > 0:03:31- No.- They're really...- Without a doubt, the best one in the world.
0:03:36 > 0:03:43Ah... My breakfast is finished, I'm in for a wonderful day today.
0:03:48 > 0:03:51- Yes, you are complete red. - What do you mean red?
0:03:51 > 0:03:55- You're just like a lobster.- Lobster? Why don't we say pepperoni? It's much better.
0:03:55 > 0:04:00'Gennaro is taking me to his hometown, Minori.
0:04:00 > 0:04:03'It was once a small village, now it's full of tourists,
0:04:03 > 0:04:06'hotels and holiday villas.'
0:04:09 > 0:04:13'Ah. It is always great to come home.'
0:04:13 > 0:04:16- Home sweet home.- Unbelievable. - BELLS RING
0:04:16 > 0:04:19Even the bells there.
0:04:19 > 0:04:24This is the bells which I've been hearing since I was a little boy.
0:04:27 > 0:04:29Come on, Gennaro.
0:04:35 > 0:04:38'My mama and papa sadly passed away.
0:04:38 > 0:04:44'I left here more than 40 years ago, but I still know almost everyone.
0:04:44 > 0:04:49'This is my nephew, this is my old school friend.
0:04:52 > 0:04:55'This is my father's old friend, bless him.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04'And this is an old family friend, Andrea,
0:05:04 > 0:05:06'who remembers what it was like in the 1950s.'
0:05:08 > 0:05:14Andrea, tell me one thing, how was it in the so-called bad time here?
0:05:14 > 0:05:18Things were very bad. There was no food and no work.
0:05:18 > 0:05:20Here, the people were poor.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24Most of the people lived on, as I say, doing work in the country.
0:05:24 > 0:05:29How did your mother cope with the situation? What food did she used to prepare for you?
0:05:29 > 0:05:31I don't know how she managed.
0:05:31 > 0:05:37We were six of us, sitting there, it was during winter,
0:05:37 > 0:05:44and my mother told me, when I remember it I feel like crying, and she said,
0:05:44 > 0:05:53"Look, I'm afraid that there's nothing to eat tonight." And we all went to bed with nothing.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56And that was one of the worst things that I remember.
0:06:02 > 0:06:06'Most families lived hand to mouth here, like Andrea.
0:06:06 > 0:06:12'Gennaro is taking me to meet his aunt who has lived in Minori all her life.'
0:06:12 > 0:06:14'Ah, my dear Aunty Antonietta.
0:06:21 > 0:06:24'Antonietta, she's a fantastic cook.
0:06:36 > 0:06:41'Antonietta's making pasta just like she's always done.'
0:06:41 > 0:06:44Really, the art of making this pasta is to make a wonderful dough
0:06:44 > 0:06:48which is simply flour and water, nothing else.
0:06:48 > 0:06:52Make a little sausage like this to have a curl.
0:06:52 > 0:06:56This enables the pasta to absorb sauce inside.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59There's playing, playing with pasta.
0:06:59 > 0:07:03This is pure cucina povera, wonderful food born out of poverty.
0:07:03 > 0:07:07Just flour and water, shape it with an old umbrella spike.
0:07:07 > 0:07:13You can see this is actually part of an umbrella, and roll it up.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15And it is fantastic, and you have to do one by one,
0:07:15 > 0:07:17and it takes a couple of hours to do that.
0:07:17 > 0:07:25Usually they sort of collect a few friends, and it's a social meeting,
0:07:25 > 0:07:30you know, instead of going to the pub or to the bingo, they do this.
0:07:30 > 0:07:33Here you are, here's the pasta they make Antonio, look.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36Look, my heart really starts to beat when I see pasta like this
0:07:36 > 0:07:41because it's... the most delightful fusilli, made by hand.
0:07:41 > 0:07:43This is what I was brought up with.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47This was also the pasta that my nanny used to make.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51'Families ate pasta every day in this part of Italy. It was cheap
0:07:51 > 0:07:56'and filled up empty bellies, and the different shapes added variety.'
0:07:56 > 0:07:59And do you know what they put them in? A cardboard box.
0:07:59 > 0:08:03'There are now more than 600 shapes of pasta in Italy.
0:08:03 > 0:08:08'But in the old days the family didn't eat Antonietta's pasta.'
0:08:21 > 0:08:23Interesting.
0:08:23 > 0:08:26So they were making this pasta as a luxury,
0:08:26 > 0:08:30they were bringing them to their vendor and they were paid
0:08:30 > 0:08:36money in kilos and so on, and with the money they were paid, they would
0:08:36 > 0:08:41buy the other pasta and beans and so on to have the very simple meal.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44So this was literally sort of a trade.
0:08:44 > 0:08:48'Cucini povera is all about making the most of everything.
0:08:48 > 0:08:51'And Antonietta never throws anything away,
0:08:51 > 0:08:54'and she's a genius with leftovers.'
0:08:54 > 0:08:58Antonietta now has prepared something very, very special for us.
0:08:58 > 0:09:02This is a famous pane cotto, leftover bread, cooked with the tomatoes
0:09:02 > 0:09:05and if they had a bit of parmesan, parmesan as well.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08And it is a delightful soup, let me see.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14- Hmm! - HE SPEAKS IN ITALIAN
0:09:14 > 0:09:17'When I was a small boy we rarely had meat,
0:09:17 > 0:09:20'but we did keep animal for special occasions.'
0:09:20 > 0:09:23So we used to have chickens, we used to have a pig.
0:09:23 > 0:09:25One way or the other they used to have an animal.
0:09:25 > 0:09:29You know, I never forget the story when my father, every Easter,
0:09:29 > 0:09:34he used to bring a little baby goat, and once he became very attached
0:09:34 > 0:09:39with this animal, you know, running everywhere, take him everywhere. You know, really, really affectionate.
0:09:39 > 0:09:42But then one day I find the poor animal's hanging upside down.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46I couldn't stop crying because that was my friend. My father went "bang",
0:09:46 > 0:09:51smacked me, and he said to me, "You should never be attached to food."
0:09:51 > 0:09:53And I learned my lesson.
0:09:54 > 0:09:59Before we leave, Antonietta gives us a lunch bag of her home-made pasta.
0:09:59 > 0:10:01HE SPEAKS ITALIAN
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- Arrivederci.- Arrivederci. Ciao! Ciao!
0:10:07 > 0:10:10I think tomorrow we'll have a wonderful lunch.
0:10:10 > 0:10:13- I'm going to make a... - No, you're doing...
0:10:13 > 0:10:15- No, no, I'm going to make this ragu...- Fine, fine.
0:10:18 > 0:10:26I'm going to use Antonietta's lovely hand-made pasta for my Ragu alla Napoletana.
0:10:27 > 0:10:32Ragu in Italy is like the Sunday roast in Britain.
0:10:32 > 0:10:36- So what are you doing here? - Napoletana ragu.- Ah, yeah.
0:10:36 > 0:10:42Right, sausages. Pork sausages, which I will cut it in quite large chunks.
0:10:46 > 0:10:51Then I'm going to... This is spare ribs, pork spare ribs, which I cut in half.
0:10:54 > 0:10:58Be careful with your hands when you cut it. Here I have this fantastic beef
0:10:58 > 0:11:03with a bit of fat inside it as well, a bit of gristle that is nice fat
0:11:03 > 0:11:08which is good, and I'm going to cut it quite rough.
0:11:08 > 0:11:13This particular one, you can make it with any kind, cheap cut of meat.
0:11:13 > 0:11:15Cheapest meat you have, a better taste
0:11:15 > 0:11:18because there is inside a nice bit of fat inside.
0:11:18 > 0:11:22When you slowly, slowly cook it melts, giving such a flavour to the meat.
0:11:22 > 0:11:25And if there's too much fat on top you can always scoop it out.
0:11:25 > 0:11:30Easy, Antonio. Then I'm going to seal the meat.
0:11:30 > 0:11:34Now, let me explain what the seal the meat is.
0:11:34 > 0:11:38Seal the meat, what you do, you are just...
0:11:38 > 0:11:44you make sure that the meat gets browned on the outside, and then it will cook.
0:11:44 > 0:11:48When it's brown it will be sealed outside but
0:11:48 > 0:11:52slowly, when it actually cooks, will release all the goodness from inside.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56- May I stir the pasta because it's over-boiling?- Let me stir it.
0:11:56 > 0:11:59- May I keep an eye on it? - Keep an eye on it.
0:12:00 > 0:12:02Be careful the shirt.
0:12:02 > 0:12:06Now, what I will do now, I want to put a bit of salt.
0:12:08 > 0:12:12- Salt. Just a little tad. - Why do you put the salt now?
0:12:12 > 0:12:16Because I balance better to put them inside the salt.
0:12:16 > 0:12:20Then a bit of pepper.
0:12:21 > 0:12:25And now, which is still cooking, I will put an onion.
0:12:25 > 0:12:28- Stir the pasta properly.- Yes.
0:12:28 > 0:12:32Now I chop the onions, you'll see the onions are chopped,
0:12:32 > 0:12:35It's very rough because it's going to cook for a couple of hours.
0:12:35 > 0:12:40And cooking for a couple of hours the onions will almost melt.
0:12:40 > 0:12:45Then you have them inside, make sure it's rough onions going inside.
0:12:45 > 0:12:46Fantastico.
0:12:46 > 0:12:47Then you stir it.
0:12:48 > 0:12:51Ah! You've got a lovely colour, you know?
0:12:51 > 0:12:56- I know. I am hungry. - Oh, all right, yeah, got a couple of hours to do that.
0:12:56 > 0:13:00I'm going to add some wine inside.
0:13:01 > 0:13:05Then I need to now
0:13:05 > 0:13:10to evaporate this little bit of wine which is inside.
0:13:10 > 0:13:16So simple. You need now some puree, tomato puree.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20Then I will put some water inside,
0:13:20 > 0:13:24Nice bit of water, see,
0:13:24 > 0:13:29- and now the alcohol...- Yeah, is gone. - ..is almost gone, so I stir this one
0:13:29 > 0:13:32nice and... But you have to make sure that you do stir it,
0:13:32 > 0:13:34don't just put a big lump inside,
0:13:34 > 0:13:36make sure you dilute it properly,
0:13:36 > 0:13:39then you add them in.
0:13:42 > 0:13:44Then you get three tins of nice tomato.
0:13:44 > 0:13:48It's all chopped up tomato, look, all goes in now.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- Chunks as well, you use... - Big chunks as well.
0:13:52 > 0:13:54This is going to cook for two hours.
0:13:54 > 0:13:59This in my opinion is only cucina povera in the south of Italy.
0:13:59 > 0:14:00I don't see it in the north,
0:14:00 > 0:14:05using bits and pieces that are not very expensive to get lovely flavours like that.
0:14:05 > 0:14:11It is. Last we're going to give them a little bit of what we call garden flavour.
0:14:11 > 0:14:17Get a nice handful of basil, break it,
0:14:17 > 0:14:23- push them inside, and you get... - Lovely smell.
0:14:23 > 0:14:24Yeah, you can really smell.
0:14:24 > 0:14:27then you get the pot which here I've done one about two hours ago.
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- You ready, Antonio?- Yeah, I'm ready. - He can't wait.
0:14:30 > 0:14:34Look, and it's all bubble along.
0:14:34 > 0:14:36It looks very good, I must say.
0:14:41 > 0:14:45And then I'm going to put all the meat inside, everything melted.
0:14:45 > 0:14:50The meat becomes so tender. The sausages, of course.
0:14:50 > 0:14:53My goodness.
0:14:53 > 0:14:56Now I can put the pasta in. Sure.
0:14:58 > 0:15:01Oh, why I'm cooking so good?!
0:15:01 > 0:15:06- Why you don't wait to taste it before you say that?- OK, all right. OK, proper ragu.
0:15:07 > 0:15:10A bit of meat, just a second.
0:15:15 > 0:15:21It looks very good. Even the bone has gone so soft.
0:15:21 > 0:15:24It's two courses here.
0:15:24 > 0:15:29You have a starter, which is the pasta and then all different cuts of meat, which you can have later.
0:15:29 > 0:15:31You can have a lovely salad, whatever,
0:15:31 > 0:15:34little bit of juice and sauce so you can dip the bread inside.
0:15:35 > 0:15:39'Traditionally pasta has always been a primi,
0:15:39 > 0:15:40'or first course in Italy.
0:15:40 > 0:15:46'On the rare occasion when meat was served as a second course there was never much to go around,
0:15:46 > 0:15:50'so better for the family to be filled up with pasta.'
0:15:53 > 0:15:56- Mmm. Mmm.- Very good.
0:16:01 > 0:16:06'But lucky for us, today we are able to indulge.'
0:16:16 > 0:16:21You can see the meat and everything is ever so tender.
0:16:25 > 0:16:31So this is ragu alla Napoletana with a curly pasta
0:16:31 > 0:16:37with three different cuts of meat, sausages, spare ribs and beef,
0:16:37 > 0:16:40can be anything, though, with a fantastic garden salad.
0:16:40 > 0:16:41Well done, Gennaro.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45Nowadays the whole world loves pasta,
0:16:45 > 0:16:49and the fortunes of cucina povera has totally changed.
0:16:49 > 0:16:54Poor food is making some of the people of Campania rich.
0:16:54 > 0:17:00'We have been invited to join my friend and old business colleague Giuseppe di Martino on his yacht.
0:17:00 > 0:17:02'Giuseppe is a pasta man.
0:17:02 > 0:17:06'What he doesn't know about pasta isn't worth knowing.'
0:17:06 > 0:17:10The roots of pasta go back thousands and thousands of years.
0:17:10 > 0:17:14But shall we say once for all, that it wasn't Marco Polo who brought it back?
0:17:14 > 0:17:16Ah, but this is a fantastic legend.
0:17:16 > 0:17:18it's easy to believe but it's not true.
0:17:18 > 0:17:23The first shape that was invented thousands and thousands of years ago was lasagne.
0:17:23 > 0:17:26During the Roman times, if you were a Roman citizen,
0:17:26 > 0:17:30you will never starve because you would have wheat for free.
0:17:30 > 0:17:34What they used to do, the people, they mix it with water
0:17:34 > 0:17:39and they made sheets so that they could store it in their houses, flat,
0:17:39 > 0:17:41without using a lot of space.
0:17:41 > 0:17:43That's the actual original pasta.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46That's interesting. I didn't know that, I didn't know that.
0:17:46 > 0:17:52The reason of pasta was to survive crisis, was to become a storage,
0:17:52 > 0:17:55to become a stock of food, something you could rely on in bad times.
0:17:56 > 0:17:59SINGING IN ITALIAN
0:18:03 > 0:18:08'Giuseppe grew up in Italy's pasta-making town.'
0:18:08 > 0:18:12Gragnano is probably the capital of pasta in the entire world.
0:18:12 > 0:18:15- The air is so good.- Yes. This here is the real thing.
0:18:15 > 0:18:19Gragnano near Naples is to pasta what Rome is to Catholics,
0:18:19 > 0:18:25and has been for over 500 years. The town is one big pasta factory.
0:18:25 > 0:18:28Its port gives access to the best flour,
0:18:28 > 0:18:32mountains provide the best water, and it has the perfect climate.
0:18:32 > 0:18:37In the old days pasta was hung on frames in the street to dry.
0:18:37 > 0:18:40Gragnano's main street was built especially wide
0:18:40 > 0:18:45and runs straight from the mountains to shore to catch the sea breezes.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50The fresh air that you were mentioning,
0:18:50 > 0:18:54around one o'clock, from the sea, is coming a fresh air
0:18:54 > 0:18:59because the earth has been warmed up by the sun, and produce a sort of movement of air.
0:18:59 > 0:19:03This lovely, lovely air was drying the pasta perfectly.
0:19:05 > 0:19:09Giuseppe's grandfather worked in the Gragnano pasta factory from the age of ten.
0:19:09 > 0:19:15He had the gift. In fact, his expertise became his fortune.
0:19:15 > 0:19:21He was such a good pasta maker his boss loaned him money to set up on his own.
0:19:23 > 0:19:28'Giuseppe inherited his grandfather's business and skill.'
0:19:28 > 0:19:30Mama mia!
0:19:30 > 0:19:33'And now he has taken his pasta global,
0:19:33 > 0:19:38'but Giuseppe has maintained the traditional methods of making pasta.'
0:19:38 > 0:19:45What we're trying to replicate in these drying cells is drying it outside in the sun.
0:19:45 > 0:19:48This has just come out of the production line.
0:19:48 > 0:19:50It's still very warm and soft.
0:19:50 > 0:19:56On wooden trays is important because wood is keeping the temperature perfect.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59This was used 500 years ago and we still use it.
0:20:00 > 0:20:07- It smells like fantastic bread, it is the wheat that tastes really incredible.- It is a bakery.
0:20:07 > 0:20:11If you dry at high temperature, all of these disappears.
0:20:11 > 0:20:18Making the pasta exactly the same as your grandad used to make 100 years ago?
0:20:18 > 0:20:21The process is exactly the same.
0:20:21 > 0:20:23My grandfather would be very proud of this.
0:20:23 > 0:20:28Especially in Britain, there are many people who believe the fresh pasta is the best.
0:20:28 > 0:20:32And sometimes they go to the supermarket, they take sort of wet pasta.
0:20:32 > 0:20:34There isn't such a thing in Italy.
0:20:34 > 0:20:37Wet pasta is only buying water at the price of pasta.
0:20:37 > 0:20:42If you cannot buy it anywhere, pasta was invented to have a store,
0:20:42 > 0:20:46to have a stock of food, so something that will make you go for a long time,
0:20:46 > 0:20:48and so it couldn't be fresh.
0:20:48 > 0:20:53Dry pasta, it keeps al dente, and the fresh pasta is always soft.
0:20:53 > 0:20:57'Giuseppe now produces more than five tonnes every day,
0:20:57 > 0:20:59'and sells around the world.
0:20:59 > 0:21:04''His top-of-the-range fusilli are snapped up for £5 a box in posh London shops.'
0:21:04 > 0:21:07The pasta has become a global product
0:21:07 > 0:21:11because Italians have gone around the world, like you two.
0:21:11 > 0:21:14You're going to England, going to the States, Japan, everywhere.
0:21:14 > 0:21:21- And with them they've brought such a strong culture.- That's why you get the money to buy wonderful linen!
0:21:21 > 0:21:24Well, it takes 100 years to make!
0:21:24 > 0:21:26- Your father had a secret to make pasta.- Yeah.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29It's obviously the secret of the family!
0:21:29 > 0:21:34- Come and work with me and I'll tell you!- Promise I will!
0:21:34 > 0:21:40'Pasta has come a long way. The food of the poor has now become the food of the rich.
0:21:42 > 0:21:48'Southern Italian food is all about simple, local ingredients.'
0:21:51 > 0:21:53INDISTINCT
0:21:59 > 0:22:01Fantastic.
0:22:07 > 0:22:09Those peaches, they were collected this morning.
0:22:09 > 0:22:13- Oh, fantastic!- Mmm!
0:22:13 > 0:22:16- Mmm! Mmm!- Fresh!
0:22:16 > 0:22:18They're not all perfect.
0:22:18 > 0:22:20Look at all the juice coming out of this one.
0:22:20 > 0:22:24You know, natural stuff never grows perfect.
0:22:30 > 0:22:33'This is alfresco dining at its best.
0:22:35 > 0:22:41'This fruit is all in season, from just up the road, like the old days.'
0:22:43 > 0:22:48The terraced hills above Minori may be perfect for growing fruit,
0:22:48 > 0:22:52but higher up in the rocky mountains it is hard to grow food.
0:22:53 > 0:22:57However, where there is a will, there is a way.
0:22:57 > 0:23:02An old friend, Pasquale, lives with his family high in these mountains.
0:23:02 > 0:23:06Pasquale, like his father and grandfather, is a shepherd,
0:23:06 > 0:23:11and lives hand to mouth like many did in the past.
0:23:11 > 0:23:13BELLS TINKLE
0:23:13 > 0:23:16- They're fantastic, Antonio. - That's unbelievable.
0:23:16 > 0:23:19That sound, it's music. TINKLING CONTINUES
0:23:27 > 0:23:29That's idyllic life.
0:23:32 > 0:23:34The air here is pure, fantastic.
0:23:40 > 0:23:44The height coupled with the earth. And that's enough.
0:23:44 > 0:23:47- Happy life, perhaps. - Antonio, there is no traffic here.
0:23:47 > 0:23:50BELLS TINKLE AND DOG BARKS
0:23:53 > 0:23:55PASQUALE SHOUTS IN ITALIAN
0:23:57 > 0:23:58MILK SQUIRTS
0:24:00 > 0:24:01Oh, that's wonderful!
0:24:04 > 0:24:05HE SPEAKS ITALIAN
0:24:05 > 0:24:09Antonio, wait. Salute, grazie.
0:24:09 > 0:24:11'When Pasquale and Raffaella first married,
0:24:11 > 0:24:14'they had nothing but 50 sheep.
0:24:14 > 0:24:16'They lived rough here under the trees.
0:24:16 > 0:24:20'They made milk into cheese and sold or exchanged it for other food.'
0:24:20 > 0:24:24That was his bedroom. That was his bedroom!
0:24:24 > 0:24:27THEY SPEAK ITALIAN
0:24:27 > 0:24:31Here was a table. That was his garden.
0:24:31 > 0:24:35They had fennel, tomatoes, and it was enough to eat well, actually.
0:24:35 > 0:24:41'Pasquale gets work wherever he can. In the summer he picks lemons.'
0:24:41 > 0:24:45THEY SPEAK ITALIAN
0:24:57 > 0:25:04'Every day, he carries 50-kilo boxes down 500 steps to the seafront.
0:25:04 > 0:25:07'I can barely lift it, and he does it ten times a day.
0:25:12 > 0:25:15'Now they have their own cellars,
0:25:15 > 0:25:19'where Raffaella can make pecorino and ricotta cheese.
0:25:19 > 0:25:25'Their hard work has made enough money to build a small house for them and their two daughters.'
0:25:25 > 0:25:29Fantastic display of cheese, Gennaro. It's wonderful flavours.
0:25:29 > 0:25:34These have various ages. This is the fresh cheese,
0:25:34 > 0:25:38this is aged a little bit but perhaps a month or something,
0:25:38 > 0:25:42and this is five to six months.
0:25:42 > 0:25:44Or you can eat it fresh as well.
0:25:44 > 0:25:49This is fresh pecorino, which is fantastic on salads as well, pasta.
0:25:49 > 0:25:53My mother used to put a little bit of honey on that,
0:25:53 > 0:25:56and we'd eat it as the dessert, or sugar.
0:25:56 > 0:26:00And this is the ricotta. I like the ricotta.
0:26:00 > 0:26:02Almost like ice cream.
0:26:04 > 0:26:06Wow!
0:26:06 > 0:26:10Very low in fat. I prefer the ricotta.
0:26:10 > 0:26:14'In pure cucina povera style, Raffaella throws nothing away
0:26:14 > 0:26:19'and preserves everything, and so she still uses the old-fashioned barter system.'
0:26:24 > 0:26:28'And never have I tasted such delicious ricotta.
0:26:28 > 0:26:32'I admire this couple's ingenuity and talent.'
0:26:32 > 0:26:35That's fine, she said, that in evaporating and in drying.
0:26:37 > 0:26:40Happy life, perhaps.
0:26:40 > 0:26:43Many people of the city, they would like to have something like this.
0:26:43 > 0:26:46But it is a fool's romance.
0:26:47 > 0:26:52We see it as romantic, they see it as a normal life, hard life.
0:26:52 > 0:26:56Earning just a bit of money to survive well.
0:26:59 > 0:27:01Maybe ask him if he has depressions.
0:27:01 > 0:27:04BELLS TINKLE
0:27:04 > 0:27:08I believe that simple life is not a guarantee that you don't have depressions.
0:27:08 > 0:27:13But I wouldn't like to exchange it, actually, for a few hours.
0:27:16 > 0:27:20I am too used to comfort, to have the city and all of that.
0:27:22 > 0:27:25But it isn't easy, and this self-sufficient lifestyle
0:27:25 > 0:27:29is how many people were forced to live in the past.
0:27:37 > 0:27:41He is looking for the four leaves, if he looks all his life!
0:27:41 > 0:27:44ANTONIO SPEAKS ITALIAN
0:27:46 > 0:27:49ANTONIO STRAINS He has farted!
0:27:51 > 0:27:55He pretended to find one, he went, "Oh, brrr!"
0:27:55 > 0:27:57ANTONIO COUGHS THEATRICALLY
0:28:02 > 0:28:04They are lucky,
0:28:04 > 0:28:08they don't know anything of nature at all, these people.
0:28:13 > 0:28:18We left Pasquale and Raffaella with some ricotta for my lemon and ricotta tart.
0:28:20 > 0:28:21BELL RINGS
0:28:22 > 0:28:25- Gennaro!- Ai, Antonio.
0:28:25 > 0:28:28- Ah.- "Give me this, give me that."
0:28:28 > 0:28:34Gennaro's collected wonderful lemons. Fantastic. Come, come, come, come here.
0:28:34 > 0:28:37Glorify those wonderful lemons.
0:28:37 > 0:28:43We do a ricotta tart with the candied cedro and oranges. All of the area.
0:28:43 > 0:28:51So we have here some puff pastry, I sort of roll it as thin as possible.
0:28:51 > 0:28:55We have here this. We put it inside here, we don't need fat underneath.
0:28:55 > 0:28:59So this is the preparation of the dough.
0:28:59 > 0:29:01Gennaro, can you...?
0:29:01 > 0:29:04- Of course I can clean. I'm very good on that.- Wonderful.
0:29:04 > 0:29:08- Here, look.- Yes.
0:29:08 > 0:29:11- There you are.- Fantastic. Gennaro, you are a brick.
0:29:11 > 0:29:13I know I'm a brick.
0:29:13 > 0:29:15This is important. it's called cedro.
0:29:15 > 0:29:20They are lemons that they don't have very much juice inside, only a little fruit,
0:29:20 > 0:29:26but a very thick skin, and this, they are candied, and it is a fantastic flavour
0:29:26 > 0:29:30and taste, used in almost all the sweets of the south.
0:29:30 > 0:29:33It's a lovely, scented smell of lemon,
0:29:33 > 0:29:38but not as the normal lemons. The most important ingredient.
0:29:38 > 0:29:45'If you can't buy cedro, candied lemon is available in many high-end supermarkets and Italian delis.'
0:29:45 > 0:29:49Gennaro, can you do me the favour? Five eggs, please,
0:29:49 > 0:29:56and I need the yolks in this here, which is the mascarpone and ricotta.
0:29:56 > 0:30:00I have the mascarpone which is very fat to give a bit of consistence,
0:30:00 > 0:30:06and I mix this with sugar, sort of caster sugar.
0:30:10 > 0:30:16- There it is, now I put sort of five yolk of eggs, Gennaro, please?- One.
0:30:16 > 0:30:21Yes. Don't give me the whites, just yolk. Yes.
0:30:21 > 0:30:24And save the white because we need it.
0:30:26 > 0:30:31Yes, wonderful yolk. My goodness, are they local?
0:30:31 > 0:30:35- Of course they are local, they're all local.- In with a bit of sugar.
0:30:35 > 0:30:39- As you know... - How much? Tell me how much?
0:30:39 > 0:30:42Another little bit, another little bit.
0:30:42 > 0:30:46Another little bit, come on, that's not your sugar. OK, fine.
0:30:46 > 0:30:51- Are you sure?- Yes. - The candied fruit with this one.- Yes.
0:30:51 > 0:30:55- Now you want me to beat up? - Beat it stiff.
0:30:55 > 0:30:58Then we have here the orange peel which is wonderful as well.
0:30:58 > 0:31:03Now, what I do is to cut this in cubes, lovely,
0:31:03 > 0:31:04and we put it in here.
0:31:08 > 0:31:11And now the cedro. Oh, that's lovely.
0:31:11 > 0:31:14You find this in almost all the desserts of south Italy.
0:31:14 > 0:31:20Come on, come on. Don't be lazy.
0:31:20 > 0:31:23And we add this as well.
0:31:23 > 0:31:25- Shall we?- No, no, no, more.
0:31:27 > 0:31:30It has to be stiff What do you mean, stiff?
0:31:30 > 0:31:34- You don't know what stiff is.- Yes, I know what it is.- No.- It's all right.
0:31:34 > 0:31:36Come on.
0:31:38 > 0:31:40You have to be careful!
0:31:40 > 0:31:43- This is fine.- No, it's... That is not...
0:31:43 > 0:31:46- It is. It's me cooking here. - All right.- So...
0:31:48 > 0:31:54Because now it is the very careful and very gentle activity of folding it.
0:31:54 > 0:31:56Now you fold it very gently like this.
0:31:59 > 0:32:02Ah, that's a mixture, look at this here.
0:32:02 > 0:32:07Lovely, that's exactly what I wanted.
0:32:07 > 0:32:11Because look at this, the fantastic pleasure of this.
0:32:11 > 0:32:12Awesome, sensual.
0:32:12 > 0:32:14- All right.- Luxuries.
0:32:17 > 0:32:24I like this sort of not exact, hand-made stuff, you know,
0:32:24 > 0:32:27because it doesn't look industrial.
0:32:28 > 0:32:31- So it's up to you now to... - Yeah, to finish off.
0:32:31 > 0:32:36- Yes.- Thank you. That's one egg. You can see the colour of it.
0:32:36 > 0:32:39Yes, it's unbelievable.
0:32:39 > 0:32:44To give a lovely golden patina to the pastry.
0:32:45 > 0:32:53Now, this, after you finish this we put it in an oven at about 180 degrees or 200
0:32:53 > 0:32:55for about 20, 25 minutes.
0:32:55 > 0:32:58And we see that the centre will be still a little bit wobbly,
0:32:58 > 0:33:01then we take it out and we let it rest.
0:33:01 > 0:33:04- Now it's ready for the oven. - Do you want me to do?- Yes, go.
0:33:04 > 0:33:08- OK. Shall I eat for you as well? - Yes, that would be nice.- OK.
0:33:08 > 0:33:11Oh, that's fantastic.
0:33:17 > 0:33:22This is wonderful. Look at the colour, I love it. I can't wait.
0:33:22 > 0:33:27The last touch is this one, because we are here in the region of endless lemon.
0:33:27 > 0:33:31Look at this, just a hint.
0:33:31 > 0:33:38Now this is really the proof of the pudding. Let's see, yes.
0:33:38 > 0:33:39Ah!
0:33:39 > 0:33:41I can't wait, Antonio, go on.
0:33:43 > 0:33:47Here, perfect. There.
0:33:48 > 0:33:50Shall I put some pears on it?
0:33:50 > 0:33:54You don't know, but I saw them in the market and said "I need those."
0:33:54 > 0:33:58They're little pears which I put in the oven as they are,
0:33:58 > 0:34:02and then at a certain stage when they're starting to be a little bit shrinky,
0:34:02 > 0:34:08- you put a bit of sugar and a bottle of red wine.- Do you know what they're called?- No.- Bambinelli.
0:34:08 > 0:34:10- Bambinelli, little children. - Little children, little bambini.
0:34:12 > 0:34:15Yes!
0:34:15 > 0:34:18- Gennaro, you are a champion. - Just a minute.
0:34:18 > 0:34:22Look at this, here, that's just fantastic.
0:34:22 > 0:34:24Hmm!
0:34:25 > 0:34:27Hmm!
0:34:27 > 0:34:30Hmm! Hmm! I baked it!
0:34:33 > 0:34:36Oh, that's a dream of a tart.
0:34:36 > 0:34:37Oh!
0:34:39 > 0:34:40Light, nice.
0:34:41 > 0:34:45I like more the pears than your tart.
0:34:45 > 0:34:47The pear is very good.
0:34:47 > 0:34:49I like more the pears than the tart.
0:34:49 > 0:34:53I know, I know. I can't understand why you are joking all the time.
0:34:53 > 0:34:55- I love it.- Can't understand it.
0:34:55 > 0:34:59- It's very silly. If you like it, you like it.- Yes, I do like it.
0:35:00 > 0:35:01Oven.
0:35:03 > 0:35:04Heaven, not oven.
0:35:04 > 0:35:07- No, no, baked them in the oven. - Oh, yeah, OK.
0:35:07 > 0:35:09Antonio.
0:35:09 > 0:35:10Chin-chin to you.
0:35:10 > 0:35:12- You've really done well. - Yes? Thank you, thank you.
0:35:12 > 0:35:15Well, this time you did. Salute.
0:35:20 > 0:35:22Wonderful.
0:35:24 > 0:35:25Just wonderful.
0:35:26 > 0:35:29The people in Campania are famous
0:35:29 > 0:35:33for being able to make the most of what's around them.
0:35:33 > 0:35:35There's even a word for it here...
0:35:35 > 0:35:37arrangiarsi.
0:35:37 > 0:35:40That is exactly what I used to do.
0:35:40 > 0:35:43Everything that could be eaten, usually was.
0:35:43 > 0:35:46But even I have to draw the line somewhere.
0:35:46 > 0:35:48He's searching a lizard, I think.
0:35:57 > 0:36:00Argh, god, god.
0:36:00 > 0:36:01He find one.
0:36:01 > 0:36:04When I was a little kid, I used to do a competition,
0:36:04 > 0:36:07who catch the most lizard,
0:36:07 > 0:36:10and I caught 36 lizard one day.
0:36:10 > 0:36:16I put them in a box and brought them to my sister, she opened it and she went, "Argh!"
0:36:16 > 0:36:18Lizards everywhere inside the house, I had to run away.
0:36:18 > 0:36:22Well, I used to respect those little animals.
0:36:22 > 0:36:26Once you caught it, you know, you let it go free again.
0:36:26 > 0:36:28You don't eat it. Yuck.
0:36:30 > 0:36:32How can you eat a lizard?
0:36:32 > 0:36:35Urgh. Urgh.
0:36:35 > 0:36:39You can eat it if like it. Do you know what?
0:36:39 > 0:36:42I'm sure if we get a big one, or three or four
0:36:42 > 0:36:45and just cook those with a little bit of garlic and oil,
0:36:45 > 0:36:47and give it to Antonio...
0:36:47 > 0:36:49he'll eat everything.
0:36:50 > 0:36:52Antonio, I'm coming.
0:36:52 > 0:36:55I know you can't do without me, I'm coming.
0:36:55 > 0:36:56I've always hunted,
0:36:56 > 0:36:59I had the reputation for it when I was younger.
0:37:02 > 0:37:03Look, did you see?
0:37:03 > 0:37:06There, there is a little bay there, with the...
0:37:06 > 0:37:08Yes, with the villa there.
0:37:08 > 0:37:10Yep, I was about 17.
0:37:10 > 0:37:12It's unbelievable.
0:37:12 > 0:37:14The sea was my swimming pool.
0:37:14 > 0:37:17The back mountain was my garden.
0:37:17 > 0:37:20The village was my playground.
0:37:20 > 0:37:23And all those rocks there,
0:37:23 > 0:37:28this is where I used to go down for octopus, catch mussels.
0:37:28 > 0:37:32There used to be some prickly pears. You know the prickly pear?
0:37:32 > 0:37:34I really had to climb to get some of those,
0:37:34 > 0:37:37and the salt, you know,
0:37:37 > 0:37:38after a rough sea,
0:37:38 > 0:37:42was left in the little pools. The sun used to evaporate...
0:37:42 > 0:37:45This is the salt we used to use with our cooking.
0:37:45 > 0:37:47This is where I learn all these things.
0:37:50 > 0:37:53The sun, the sea, the mountain,
0:37:53 > 0:37:57the smell of the flower, the perfume of the lemon.
0:37:59 > 0:38:02Everyone should have a youth like this, obviously.
0:38:04 > 0:38:07I was hearing passing by that somebody was calling you, "gancio".
0:38:07 > 0:38:09What does it mean?
0:38:09 > 0:38:13- You want to know what it means?- Yes. - Hook. Do you know why?
0:38:13 > 0:38:14No.
0:38:14 > 0:38:16I used to hook all the girls.
0:38:19 > 0:38:22I made love with a lovely German,
0:38:22 > 0:38:25French, Italian, god knows...
0:38:25 > 0:38:26English...
0:38:26 > 0:38:28God knows, yes.
0:38:28 > 0:38:29So many.
0:38:29 > 0:38:32So it wasn't the hooking of fish or something?
0:38:32 > 0:38:36If you actually... Do you know, you stand there,
0:38:36 > 0:38:38you can actually, how can I say?
0:38:38 > 0:38:40You can still feel me there.
0:38:44 > 0:38:47So you were the terror of Minori?
0:38:47 > 0:38:48I was not the terror of Minori!
0:38:48 > 0:38:52You know, 60's, 70's... there was a free love.
0:38:52 > 0:38:54Why not?
0:38:54 > 0:38:56Is now...
0:38:56 > 0:38:57It cost money now?
0:39:00 > 0:39:03Probably I would have done the same, actually.
0:39:03 > 0:39:05Antonio, you done worse.
0:39:11 > 0:39:14Hook by name, hook by nature.
0:39:14 > 0:39:18When I was a boy I barely went to school,
0:39:18 > 0:39:20I felt like I belonged in the water.
0:39:26 > 0:39:29The sea was like sweet shop to me,
0:39:29 > 0:39:33I took anything I could get my hands on,
0:39:33 > 0:39:36and anything I could fit down my trunks.
0:39:36 > 0:39:39You know what they say,
0:39:39 > 0:39:42predators of the sea like to nibble small things.
0:39:44 > 0:39:45You're almost there.
0:39:47 > 0:39:49Surprise, surprise. Let's see what he has got.
0:39:51 > 0:39:52Antonio.
0:39:52 > 0:39:55Yes, Gennaro. What have you go there?
0:39:55 > 0:39:57Unbelievable.
0:39:58 > 0:40:00Wow! Look at this.
0:40:03 > 0:40:05Wow! Look at this.
0:40:05 > 0:40:07That's wonderful, isn't it?
0:40:07 > 0:40:08- Here, Antonio.- Yes?
0:40:08 > 0:40:10No, don't...
0:40:10 > 0:40:11That's for you!
0:40:12 > 0:40:15Oh, that's good, one male and one female.
0:40:15 > 0:40:18These are sea urchin.
0:40:19 > 0:40:21What I would do without him?
0:40:21 > 0:40:22They look quick.
0:40:22 > 0:40:24- Yes. May I have it?- Yep.
0:40:24 > 0:40:26I do it like this.
0:40:29 > 0:40:30- Do you want lemon on top?- No.
0:40:30 > 0:40:36Ah, the smell and the taste of the Mediterranean all in one bite.
0:40:36 > 0:40:38I eat them like that.
0:40:38 > 0:40:40I eat them like that!
0:40:40 > 0:40:42I know.
0:40:43 > 0:40:45I prefer it without the lemon.
0:40:49 > 0:40:52Now you come on board, I cook you something.
0:40:52 > 0:40:56I am not going to use Gennaro's octopus for my recipe,
0:40:56 > 0:40:59knowing where it's been kept.
0:40:59 > 0:41:02I've got my own catch. Prawns and mussels with linguine.
0:41:02 > 0:41:06Now, he is very hungry and I'm going to prepare for him
0:41:06 > 0:41:11a very cucina povera dish which is just few ingredients,
0:41:11 > 0:41:15starting with taking water, because we are on a boat, from the sea,
0:41:15 > 0:41:17because the salted water....
0:41:17 > 0:41:19And I have here linguine,
0:41:19 > 0:41:23and I put it into the salted water, boiling here on the side.
0:41:25 > 0:41:30In the meantime, I prepare the sauce which is very, very easy.
0:41:30 > 0:41:32Be careful, it's hot.
0:41:32 > 0:41:34- Give it to me. - Move a little bit. There.
0:41:34 > 0:41:40Now in this case we have wonderful seafood here and the linguine there, seafood linguine.
0:41:40 > 0:41:43We have fantastic prawns which I've shelled already,
0:41:43 > 0:41:47and mussels, and a little bit of parsley.
0:41:47 > 0:41:50And we put just a little bit of olive oil,
0:41:50 > 0:41:58and we put the chilli and I like it with the seeds.
0:41:58 > 0:42:02People, they just eat the garlic and the chilli, in the oil,
0:42:02 > 0:42:07and it's called spaghetti or linguine aglio, olio e peperoncino.
0:42:07 > 0:42:11And then I put the mussels first because they have to open.
0:42:11 > 0:42:17And by opening they release wonderful seawater
0:42:17 > 0:42:22which will flavour of the Mediterranean the entire dish.
0:42:22 > 0:42:26When you put the lid on, the steam is building
0:42:26 > 0:42:28and the mussels open quicker.
0:42:28 > 0:42:33Not yet, it has to be done with lovely steam, so that they open
0:42:33 > 0:42:35and they release all the fantastic juices.
0:42:35 > 0:42:39As a matter of fact, we can put a little bit of wine
0:42:39 > 0:42:41which belongs to it.
0:42:42 > 0:42:47And so it builds a little bit more steam.
0:42:47 > 0:42:51There you go. Put the lid on.
0:42:51 > 0:42:54Do you want me to chop the parsley?
0:42:54 > 0:42:56You can chop the parsley, Gennaro.
0:42:56 > 0:42:57Thank you.
0:42:59 > 0:43:01See, I'm always helping you.
0:43:01 > 0:43:03Wonderful.
0:43:03 > 0:43:07They're open, that's fine, and now I put in the prawns.
0:43:07 > 0:43:10- Are you going to use a little bit of salt, Antonio?- Nope.- OK.
0:43:10 > 0:43:12A bit of pepper.
0:43:14 > 0:43:15Leave.
0:43:15 > 0:43:18- OK.- I want to taste.
0:43:19 > 0:43:21Just a little bit of salt.
0:43:23 > 0:43:26What do I do without you?
0:43:26 > 0:43:29Just a little pinch.
0:43:30 > 0:43:34And I believe that's ready, in a minute or two it's cooked.
0:43:34 > 0:43:36I know that you're hungry.
0:43:36 > 0:43:37Yeah.
0:43:37 > 0:43:39Do you want the parsley?
0:43:39 > 0:43:44No, not yet. Just to cook them very briefly.
0:43:44 > 0:43:47Do you see? They change colour, and they're cooked.
0:43:47 > 0:43:50Fantastic.
0:43:55 > 0:43:58That's fantastic, Gennaro. You really think of me, eh?
0:44:02 > 0:44:04Just a little bit of olive oil.
0:44:10 > 0:44:13Ah, Gennaro, look at this.
0:44:17 > 0:44:19Now I want the parsley.
0:44:19 > 0:44:20It's all yours.
0:44:20 > 0:44:22Put it there. Lovely.
0:44:30 > 0:44:36- Gennaro, it's all yours. - Thank you very much. One for you. - Thank you.- One for me.
0:44:36 > 0:44:39This is a portion and a half for you.
0:44:39 > 0:44:40Oh, my goodness.
0:44:42 > 0:44:45Here's to the health of the entire world.
0:44:45 > 0:44:48You envy us, they have to suffer.
0:44:51 > 0:44:56And this is what makes Italian food different from others,
0:44:56 > 0:44:59because when you want to have regional and wonderful things,
0:44:59 > 0:45:01you have to have the very good ingredients
0:45:01 > 0:45:03which here are available everywhere,
0:45:03 > 0:45:05and the fish has a very special flavour.
0:45:05 > 0:45:09The pasta is locally made, the parsley is locally grown,
0:45:09 > 0:45:12and eaten in Minori. What do you want more?
0:45:12 > 0:45:13You're right.
0:45:13 > 0:45:17- It's fantastic.- Yes. - And this is poor food.
0:45:17 > 0:45:20Can feed quite a few people from here.
0:45:25 > 0:45:27Yeah, you can eat it all, Gennaro.
0:45:27 > 0:45:30It's only because I know you worked a lot.
0:45:30 > 0:45:32I know.
0:45:48 > 0:45:51We are heading for the capital of Campania.
0:45:51 > 0:45:57Naples was for centuries Europe's poorest, most crowded, dangerous city.
0:45:57 > 0:46:01People call it the bowels of Italy.
0:46:02 > 0:46:06It was the food of the city's starving that went on to become world famous -
0:46:06 > 0:46:09pizza, and it was born here.
0:46:10 > 0:46:13- This is our pizza.- Panzerotti.
0:46:13 > 0:46:14Panzerotti, you'll love it.
0:46:14 > 0:46:15The fried pizza.
0:46:19 > 0:46:22Pizza started life as a piece of dough,
0:46:22 > 0:46:25smeared with pork fat, if you were lucky.
0:46:25 > 0:46:29But pizza's humble origins were dramatically changed
0:46:29 > 0:46:33by a major cholera epidemic in the 19th century.
0:46:33 > 0:46:35People were dying in the streets.
0:46:35 > 0:46:38Everyone who could left Naples.
0:46:38 > 0:46:41To boost the morale of the terrified city,
0:46:41 > 0:46:45King Umberto and Queen Margherita risked cholera
0:46:45 > 0:46:48by coming to the Royal Palace.
0:46:50 > 0:46:51Margherita went one step further
0:46:51 > 0:46:54and asked to try the poor food of Naples.
0:46:54 > 0:47:02From this pizzeria, she ordered a pizza made with tomatoes, mozzarella and basil.
0:47:02 > 0:47:04The colours of the Italian flag.
0:47:04 > 0:47:07That simple act, the Queen eating poor man's food,
0:47:07 > 0:47:14made Naples proud and gave birth to the celebrated pizza margherita
0:47:14 > 0:47:18and set pizza on course to becoming the most popular dish in the world.
0:47:21 > 0:47:23Buon apetito.
0:47:23 > 0:47:24Mama mia.
0:47:27 > 0:47:30I can't wait to try it.
0:47:35 > 0:47:39Wonderful! All over the world... it's just incredible.
0:47:39 > 0:47:43It's taken over even in China, Japan, everybody's got pizza.
0:47:43 > 0:47:46This being the birthplace of pizza,
0:47:46 > 0:47:49there are varieties here exclusive to Naples.
0:47:49 > 0:47:50Look at these here!
0:47:52 > 0:47:55That reminds me, my mother used to fry the pizza.
0:47:55 > 0:47:57Very interesting.
0:47:57 > 0:47:59Street food at its best.
0:48:03 > 0:48:06THEY SPEAK ITALIAN
0:48:09 > 0:48:14This is just like a little snack because they go home and eat even more.
0:48:14 > 0:48:17But it's lovely to see that the appetite is there,
0:48:17 > 0:48:19and they are eating a freshly baked pizza. Bona?
0:48:18 > 0:48:19Si.
0:48:22 > 0:48:24I want to make one of them, Antonio.
0:48:24 > 0:48:25I will as well.
0:48:25 > 0:48:28This is the dough, flattened,
0:48:28 > 0:48:30raised with a bit of yeast,
0:48:30 > 0:48:32this is unique to Naples
0:48:32 > 0:48:34and it's so quick,
0:48:34 > 0:48:36it is fantastic.
0:48:38 > 0:48:40Mozzarella?
0:48:40 > 0:48:41No, no mozzarella.
0:48:41 > 0:48:44You use also a little bit of olive oil.
0:48:45 > 0:48:46That's it.
0:48:46 > 0:48:50Pizza fritta. Instant food.
0:48:50 > 0:48:52Not fast food, instant.
0:48:52 > 0:48:55And my mother used to make one after the other.
0:48:55 > 0:48:58Gennaro, shall we eat it?
0:48:56 > 0:48:58Shall we eat it now?
0:48:58 > 0:49:01But before that, can I make one first?
0:49:00 > 0:49:01You can do one...
0:49:01 > 0:49:03I can do that one.
0:49:02 > 0:49:03Your fantasy.
0:49:03 > 0:49:06I put some ricotta on top, just a little on top,
0:49:06 > 0:49:08and then I use pork scratching.
0:49:08 > 0:49:11Just have them on top like that,
0:49:11 > 0:49:15then I get some nice little mozzarella.
0:49:15 > 0:49:17A little bit of tomato.
0:49:25 > 0:49:28Push them inside.
0:49:28 > 0:49:31There must have been some before, they look better.
0:49:31 > 0:49:33Mine is much better.
0:49:33 > 0:49:36'I think we need a second opinion.'
0:49:51 > 0:49:55'Gennaro is a genius cook but I make better pizza.'
0:49:58 > 0:50:01'And I have something of the virtuoso piano player too.
0:50:01 > 0:50:06'Now, all I need to find is a decent singer.'
0:50:06 > 0:50:10HE SINGS IN ITALIAN
0:50:51 > 0:50:56There was once a popular saying around these parts,
0:50:56 > 0:50:58"I am emigrating so I can eat."
0:50:58 > 0:51:0325 million Italians mainly from the south moved away
0:51:03 > 0:51:05to find work up north or abroad.
0:51:05 > 0:51:09And they took their cucina povera with them.
0:51:09 > 0:51:12Many became cooks, just like our dear Gennaro.
0:51:12 > 0:51:17I left my hometown Minori when I was 19 in 1968.
0:51:18 > 0:51:22All memories, all the passion I have when I cook
0:51:22 > 0:51:28comes from growing up watching my mama, my grandma, my aunt, make the tastiest dishes.
0:51:37 > 0:51:41I was 19 and I was going to London.
0:51:41 > 0:51:46It was five o'clock in the morning, I had to catch a train.
0:51:46 > 0:51:49We got up all together and I left.
0:51:50 > 0:51:54It's 100 metres from here to there, it must have been
0:51:54 > 0:52:01the saddest minutes of my life because it was the first time I moved away from my village,
0:52:01 > 0:52:05and I knew that it did not belong to me any more.
0:52:06 > 0:52:08I could almost cry.
0:52:10 > 0:52:15My mum, she can see a last glimpse of me,
0:52:15 > 0:52:18when I actually turned that corner.
0:52:18 > 0:52:21I wonder how many tears she shed inside there.
0:52:21 > 0:52:25And my little sister, she's still sleeping.
0:52:26 > 0:52:28I can almost see her.
0:52:29 > 0:52:32When I lived here, my family had almost nothing.
0:52:32 > 0:52:35It is incredible how things have changed.
0:52:35 > 0:52:39Now there are restaurateurs using the same cucina povera ingredients,
0:52:39 > 0:52:42but they are charging a fortune to the tourist.
0:52:42 > 0:52:45My mama would be turning in her grave.
0:52:48 > 0:52:52It's our last night in Campania together,
0:52:52 > 0:52:58and I am going to treat Gennaro to a meal in one of those posh restaurants, Rossellini's.
0:52:58 > 0:53:00It's a two Michelin-star restaurant.
0:53:04 > 0:53:06- Do you like my shoes?- Oh, lovely.
0:53:06 > 0:53:10Yeah? Do you know what? I can't bend down!
0:53:10 > 0:53:15- Jesus, I can't!- Well, with the tummy you've got...- Yeah, but you look to yours.
0:53:15 > 0:53:18- But I can bend down. - You can't bend down.
0:53:18 > 0:53:21Do you know what is the difference between you and me?
0:53:21 > 0:53:24You believe to be still attractive and so on,
0:53:24 > 0:53:28but you are about to become an old man. I am already an old man, so I don't care.
0:53:28 > 0:53:31But I'm not! Why do you want me to become an old man?
0:53:31 > 0:53:36- No, no, you- are- an old man! - No, I'm not!- Well, you should be.
0:53:38 > 0:53:41Do it again. Jump a little bit.
0:53:44 > 0:53:46Do you know what? I like this.
0:53:49 > 0:53:51- That's it.- Nice.- Let's go.
0:53:55 > 0:53:59According to the price, it can't be the cheap stuff that they use here.
0:53:59 > 0:54:03It'd better be good, a meal here costs 400 euros.
0:54:08 > 0:54:13The chef has created a cuisine influenced by the food of the poor,
0:54:13 > 0:54:15but he has taken cucina povera to another level.
0:54:30 > 0:54:33Ah, yes. Lovely.
0:54:35 > 0:54:41- There you go. That's a penguin. - We can't eat that one.
0:54:41 > 0:54:42Well, I'm hungry.
0:54:42 > 0:54:46Actually, in a place like that, you shouldn't say "I am hungry",
0:54:46 > 0:54:49you should say, "I have a light appetite".
0:54:49 > 0:54:55- No, no, I'm hungry!- Gennaro, what has a penguin to do with our food?
0:54:55 > 0:54:57Ah, good.
0:54:57 > 0:55:01Oh, bread, yes. And squid ink.
0:55:03 > 0:55:06Crystallised potato.
0:55:06 > 0:55:08They look like petals.
0:55:10 > 0:55:12Very delicate.
0:55:12 > 0:55:17Ah, fresh mozzarella cheese, stretched, blown up,
0:55:17 > 0:55:22and injected with tomato essence, and the juice of basil oil.
0:55:23 > 0:55:27Just like a pizza margherita but without the dough.
0:55:27 > 0:55:31That's one thing of cucina povera, this is for the very poor, because I only had one bite!
0:55:33 > 0:55:38Sauce, one anchovy and one single strand of spaghetti -
0:55:38 > 0:55:39not for the hungry.
0:55:41 > 0:55:44'I wonder if that is on the menu?!'
0:55:49 > 0:55:51Mama!
0:55:56 > 0:55:59The chef's piece de resistance -
0:55:59 > 0:56:03a tomato that has been pureed, reformed and topped with gold.
0:56:03 > 0:56:0424 carat gold leaves?
0:56:04 > 0:56:08Gennaro, when there are people prepared to pay...
0:56:08 > 0:56:11'I could use that gold to get the taxi home!'
0:56:11 > 0:56:14Quite an expensive tomato - one bite.
0:56:17 > 0:56:20There's a little bit of gold on your lips!
0:56:21 > 0:56:22Can't taste the gold leaves.
0:56:22 > 0:56:25I'm still hungry.
0:56:25 > 0:56:26You're still hungry, OK.
0:56:26 > 0:56:31It's amazing to see how poverty created great simple food
0:56:31 > 0:56:35and how it's now become the most popular cuisine in the world.
0:56:35 > 0:56:37Who would have thought,
0:56:37 > 0:56:41the poorest food in Europe would be influencing Michelin-starred chefs?
0:56:43 > 0:56:47But we are in Italy, I don't need the fancy restaurants.
0:56:48 > 0:56:54If you are prepared to be sneaky, you can get wonderful food gratis.
0:56:54 > 0:56:56- Where's the fig tree? - Here on the left.
0:56:56 > 0:56:59And grapes, ha-ha, wonderful grapes.
0:56:59 > 0:57:02- Gennaro, I go...- Shh!
0:57:02 > 0:57:05When you steal, you have to steal in silence.
0:57:05 > 0:57:08I steal in silence, you're the one who talks.
0:57:08 > 0:57:11Ah, look at these, let's see if they're sweet.
0:57:15 > 0:57:18'This is what the best food in the world is all about.
0:57:18 > 0:57:24'Pure, natural, no silver service or fancy napkins here.' Wonderful!
0:57:27 > 0:57:29I almost dream of that.
0:57:34 > 0:57:38- Ripe, delightful is that. - Are you sure?- Yes.- There you are.
0:57:38 > 0:57:45'I feel like a boy again in nature's sweet shop.'
0:57:46 > 0:57:53Pass it down completely, yeah? Oh, that's yellow, fantastic.
0:57:57 > 0:57:59This is what we love about Italy.
0:58:04 > 0:58:10'Next time, we travel to my region, Piedmont, in the north of Italy,
0:58:10 > 0:58:13'and I'll be going back home.
0:58:14 > 0:58:18'We'll be finding out if Italians are still incredibly passionate
0:58:18 > 0:58:21'about the food from their own region.'
0:58:21 > 0:58:24Oh, my goodness me! This is the real Piedmontese stuff.
0:58:24 > 0:58:26EXPLOSION
0:58:28 > 0:58:30- 'We discover foods even - we- haven't tasted.'
0:58:30 > 0:58:33Chinese pumpkin, I can't believe it.
0:58:33 > 0:58:36'And I find Gennaro a new friend.'
0:58:36 > 0:58:39Gennaro, you have a prince there. Try to kiss him!
0:58:51 > 0:58:56Subtitles for the deaf and hard of hearing by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:58:56 > 0:58:59Email subtitling@bbc.co.uk