Liguria and La Bella Figura

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0:00:02 > 0:00:09'I am Antonio Carluccio. Food is my life.'

0:00:10 > 0:00:13- This is almost a religious act. - Yes.

0:00:13 > 0:00:19Hallelujah. Why I'm cooking so good?

0:00:19 > 0:00:21'And I am Gennaro Contaldo.'

0:00:22 > 0:00:26I just can't believe it.

0:00:26 > 0:00:28'I too am devoted to food.

0:00:28 > 0:00:32'For years I was Antonio's assistant.'

0:00:32 > 0:00:35- Just a minute. - Do you want to cook it?

0:00:35 > 0:00:41- No, no, no. It's all in a lump there. - OK. Now, he's my best friend.

0:00:43 > 0:00:46Italia!

0:00:46 > 0:00:50'It has been nearly 50 years since we lived in Italy.'

0:00:50 > 0:00:54- Beautiful.- Wow!

0:00:54 > 0:00:59'We have come back to see if we still have a taste for the old country.'

0:00:59 > 0:01:04- OK. - The freshest butter ever.

0:01:04 > 0:01:08'When we were young, looking your best was everything.'

0:01:08 > 0:01:13My God, Charlton Heston. I look like him.

0:01:13 > 0:01:18'For us, it was all about taking pride in everything you did.'

0:01:18 > 0:01:20This is real food.

0:01:20 > 0:01:23'What you English might call showing off,

0:01:23 > 0:01:26'we Italians called la bella figura.'

0:01:28 > 0:01:30This is the first act.

0:01:30 > 0:01:35'We want to know if la bella figura is still important in Italy.'

0:01:35 > 0:01:38You make the olives, wow!

0:01:38 > 0:01:42'Where better to find out than on the Italian Riviera.'

0:01:42 > 0:01:46Bellissima! What a catch!

0:01:46 > 0:01:49- There's one!- Where?- There.

0:01:49 > 0:01:53Go there! 'We are on a voyage of discovery.

0:01:53 > 0:01:59'But keeping up appearances won't be easy with Gennaro in tow.'

0:01:59 > 0:02:01Don't look at me.

0:02:01 > 0:02:03'But don't worry.'

0:02:03 > 0:02:05Ah!

0:02:05 > 0:02:08'It will be fantastic just as long as there is plenty to eat.'

0:02:08 > 0:02:10Lovely.

0:02:10 > 0:02:13BOTH: Mmmm.

0:02:26 > 0:02:28'The Italian Riviera on the Ligurian Sea

0:02:28 > 0:02:33'is where our countrymen have always come to show themselves off.'

0:02:33 > 0:02:35Finally the sea, Gennaro.

0:02:35 > 0:02:38It is beautiful. Look how many yacht, Antonio.

0:02:38 > 0:02:42'As a young sailor, the Riviera was my hunting ground.'

0:02:42 > 0:02:43Give me a bit of water.

0:02:43 > 0:02:48- I remember I had white shoes. - Some bella figura you was then.

0:02:48 > 0:02:51White leather shoes, Gennaro. White trousers.

0:02:51 > 0:02:53They were very, very stylish.

0:02:53 > 0:02:58Ultimately, it was obviously to get some company.

0:03:01 > 0:03:03- Are you cold? - No, I want to look nice.

0:03:05 > 0:03:09'Liguria is one of the smallest of Italy's 20 regions.

0:03:09 > 0:03:12'Here, there is just mare e monti, sea and mountain.

0:03:14 > 0:03:17'In between the two, the famous Riviera.

0:03:20 > 0:03:23'If you could afford it, the ultimate place to be seen

0:03:23 > 0:03:28'was the little paradise called Portofino.

0:03:28 > 0:03:31'Once a humble fishing village,

0:03:31 > 0:03:35'nowadays you are as likely to see a fisherman

0:03:35 > 0:03:40'as you are to bump into Signori Dolce e Gabanna, Pirelli or Berlusconi.

0:03:40 > 0:03:44'If you got it, this is the place to show it off.'

0:03:44 > 0:03:47- Gennaro. - I can't believe it.

0:03:47 > 0:03:49Just straighten up myself.

0:03:49 > 0:03:53- Do this one. Make my hair beautiful. - Yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:03:53 > 0:03:55- Bella figura, Antonio. - You are beautiful.

0:03:55 > 0:03:58'The Hollywood movie stars

0:03:58 > 0:04:02'who made Portofino famous in the 1950s stayed here,

0:04:02 > 0:04:04'the Hotel Splendido.'

0:04:04 > 0:04:07My God, Charlton Heston.

0:04:07 > 0:04:12I look like him a bit. My hero.

0:04:12 > 0:04:19'It's just the thing to have a famous name or even better, a title.'

0:04:19 > 0:04:21Buongiorno! Good morning.

0:04:21 > 0:04:25- Buongiorno.- How are you? Very welcome to the Hotel Splendido.

0:04:25 > 0:04:30- May I invite you please to sign our book.- Pleasure, pleasure.

0:04:30 > 0:04:33It's full of history. Please, Mr Commendatore.

0:04:33 > 0:04:35My goodness.

0:04:35 > 0:04:39It's just like being a commander of the British Empire,

0:04:39 > 0:04:42although in Britain I am just a humble OBE.

0:04:42 > 0:04:44Would you be so kind as to sign our golden book?

0:04:44 > 0:04:46This is really full of history.

0:04:46 > 0:04:49- The first page.- Wow!

0:04:49 > 0:04:52- The Duke of Windsor. - Wallis Windsor.- Exactly.

0:04:52 > 0:04:54- May I ask you kindly please to sign as well?- Me?

0:04:54 > 0:04:58- Please. We would be delighted. - It would be an honour.

0:04:58 > 0:05:02Thank you very much. Please.

0:05:02 > 0:05:06- May we invite you to sign this? - How did you get the picture?

0:05:06 > 0:05:09- That is a secret. - That's interesting.

0:05:09 > 0:05:13- Thank you.- Thank you.

0:05:13 > 0:05:16'You know why Antonio was given this great honour?

0:05:16 > 0:05:19'Just being a greedy Italian.'

0:05:21 > 0:05:25'Here in Portofino, having a title brings rewards.

0:05:25 > 0:05:27'A room with a view.'

0:05:27 > 0:05:29This is Portofino, Gennaro.

0:05:29 > 0:05:33I should think so. Portofino with a commendatore.

0:05:33 > 0:05:35They've given you something nice.

0:05:35 > 0:05:38That is pretty obvious and it's also well deserved.

0:05:38 > 0:05:40- Tell me something.- Yes.

0:05:40 > 0:05:43You loved it when he called you commendatore.

0:05:43 > 0:05:48- And you just forgot me. You just forgot me for 20 minutes.- Yes.

0:05:48 > 0:05:50Can you sign the gold book?

0:05:50 > 0:05:54Of course I can sign the book. You didn't even go like that to look.

0:05:54 > 0:05:58- Listen, it's 30 years that I pay attention to you.- Yeah.

0:05:58 > 0:06:00May I leave you for ten minutes by yourself?

0:06:00 > 0:06:04- But it was 20 minutes.- 20 minutes. There's 20 minutes off 30 years.

0:06:04 > 0:06:09- Because I'm a commendatore, Antonio Carluccio.- This is in your brain.

0:06:09 > 0:06:14'Maybe Antonio can be a commendatore, but I'm younger and better looking.

0:06:14 > 0:06:19'Time to go it alone, but I'm starving.

0:06:29 > 0:06:33'Even the fish in Portofino, they're showing off.

0:06:33 > 0:06:34'Look at them jumping up.

0:06:34 > 0:06:38'I'm going to do you with a tomato. Little basil.

0:06:38 > 0:06:41'Where's the frying pan?'

0:06:41 > 0:06:43What a catch!

0:06:43 > 0:06:45Bellissima!

0:06:45 > 0:06:51'A lot of fish in the sea, but I'm more interested in the one I can eat.'

0:06:54 > 0:07:00'I prefer to let the hotel chef do all the work.

0:07:07 > 0:07:11This is the typical bella figura, that the chef wants to make

0:07:11 > 0:07:16in front of poncy people that live here.

0:07:16 > 0:07:19Here we have Armani there. We have Agnelli there.

0:07:19 > 0:07:25They're all here and in the hotel, they are coming for that.

0:07:25 > 0:07:27He prepares wonderful things.

0:07:27 > 0:07:30I'm really curious to see what he does.

0:07:31 > 0:07:36'But not everybody can afford to go to the Hotel Splendido to eat.'

0:07:38 > 0:07:40- From Italia?- Si!

0:07:41 > 0:07:42- Si mangia bene?- Eccellente.

0:07:42 > 0:07:46- What to eat? Something like fish? - Fish. You can choose everything.

0:07:46 > 0:07:50Comes from Italy frozen or China frozen or whatever.

0:07:50 > 0:07:53Yeah, but why you should give them frozen fish?

0:07:53 > 0:07:58Tell me something, down in Portofino the people used to come out,

0:07:58 > 0:08:00first because they have to be bella figura.

0:08:00 > 0:08:04I've got a lovely boat in Portofino, I can go fishing in Portofino,

0:08:04 > 0:08:06I dress smart in Portofino,

0:08:06 > 0:08:09I'm eating in a beautiful restaurant in Portofino

0:08:09 > 0:08:12where they serve this fantastic fresh fish.

0:08:12 > 0:08:15Do you think we lost this kind of bella figura

0:08:15 > 0:08:17now that work's inside the restaurant?

0:08:17 > 0:08:19What you got to eat?

0:08:19 > 0:08:21It doesn't matter where the fish comes from.

0:08:21 > 0:08:24They don't care, they don't have to do bella figura. What's happened now?

0:08:24 > 0:08:28- It's changed?- Look at here.

0:08:28 > 0:08:31When I start to work 23 years ago,

0:08:31 > 0:08:34nobody arrives in this way in Portofino.

0:08:34 > 0:08:39A lot of people arrive to say hi, I have been in Portofino,

0:08:39 > 0:08:41and I take a picture.

0:08:41 > 0:08:47It's difficult to explain fresh fish, explain everything.

0:08:47 > 0:08:51Only things they are interested in is to pay.

0:08:51 > 0:08:52Yeah, very cheap price.

0:08:53 > 0:08:58'Frozen fish in Portofino! Not what I was expecting.'

0:08:59 > 0:09:01'And it's not what I am eating.'

0:09:01 > 0:09:05Ecco, Corrado. Magnifico. Cos'e, questo? Come si chiama?

0:09:05 > 0:09:09Sono un filettino di triglia con vere olive taggiasche. E della melanzana sotto...

0:09:09 > 0:09:11Delighful!

0:09:11 > 0:09:14This is fillet of red mullet with taggiasca olives,

0:09:14 > 0:09:20they are the olives that they grow here in Liguria and aubergine.

0:09:25 > 0:09:27Mmm. Delizioso.

0:09:27 > 0:09:32A wonderful composition because the little mint in between

0:09:32 > 0:09:37makes it all, and this the wasp that wanted to share something with me.

0:09:38 > 0:09:42'It's still possible to show off your status in Portofino.

0:09:42 > 0:09:47'You can spend 4,500 euros a night for a room with a sea view,

0:09:47 > 0:09:51'but for me, it's too ostentatious.'

0:09:51 > 0:09:53'Where is the passion for the ingredients?

0:09:53 > 0:09:57'The pride in their food?'

0:09:59 > 0:10:02'Have Italians forgotten that there's more to la bella figura

0:10:02 > 0:10:05'than simply showing off?

0:10:05 > 0:10:10'It was always about making the best of yourself and what you have got.

0:10:10 > 0:10:15'One thing they have got a lot of here in Liguria is olives.'

0:10:15 > 0:10:17Do you see the colour of the tree?

0:10:17 > 0:10:21The grey green from up there. That's all olives.

0:10:21 > 0:10:27Now you can imagine going to all those terraces to collect the olives.

0:10:27 > 0:10:29That's quite a major job.

0:10:33 > 0:10:37'The taggiasca olives that grow up here are extremely hardy

0:10:37 > 0:10:41'and famous all over Italy.'

0:10:41 > 0:10:46- Olives, look Antonio. This is food. - Those are green olives.

0:10:51 > 0:10:56I would love it if he ate this, it's so bitter, yuk!

0:10:56 > 0:10:58Taste it, tell me if it is good.

0:10:58 > 0:11:02- I am not tasting it. Don't be so stupid.- I'm not, just in case.

0:11:02 > 0:11:05No, no, because they are very bitter. They are very bitter.

0:11:05 > 0:11:07You are really very silly.

0:11:07 > 0:11:12The bitter fruit is not for eating raw, it is for olive oil.

0:11:12 > 0:11:17Oil like you wouldn't believe. We came here for something very special.

0:11:17 > 0:11:22The most important thing of the oil is the colour and the transparency.

0:11:22 > 0:11:27Here, you can see the colour and the path.

0:11:27 > 0:11:32- A-ha!- Drink it.

0:11:32 > 0:11:37You don't drink it like that! That's lovely.

0:11:37 > 0:11:42That is almost like a tea ceremony in Japan.

0:11:42 > 0:11:44Don't wipe your hands on my jacket.

0:11:44 > 0:11:48'Every region of Italy thinks its olive oil is the best.

0:11:48 > 0:11:51'These Ligurians believe to catch a customer,

0:11:51 > 0:11:54'you must first catch his eyes.'

0:11:54 > 0:11:56- This is the shape of the olive. - Yes.

0:11:56 > 0:12:00- And this is the shape of the leaf.- Oh yes, you are right.

0:12:08 > 0:12:12This one. Is it expensive?

0:12:12 > 0:12:15Is it expensive. 70 euros.

0:12:15 > 0:12:20- And this, what is this here? - This is a very special package.

0:12:20 > 0:12:25'Each bottle even comes in a stone box made from the same rock

0:12:25 > 0:12:28'that's found in the ground where the olive trees grow.'

0:12:28 > 0:12:31Yes, it is similar to doing like this.

0:12:31 > 0:12:36It's a very good olive oil put in a special packaging.

0:12:36 > 0:12:42In a way you glorify the olives. You make the olives wow!

0:12:42 > 0:12:45Tell me something, if I have to buy a bottle of olive oil from you,

0:12:45 > 0:12:49something like that, how much roughly would it cost me?

0:12:49 > 0:12:52Oh, it costs 50 euro.

0:12:52 > 0:12:55And how long one has to wait to have something like this?

0:12:55 > 0:12:59Er, you have to book er, one year before, yes.

0:12:59 > 0:13:03- One year? - One year.- Grazie.

0:13:03 > 0:13:04Thank you very much.

0:13:08 > 0:13:12'50 euros for half a litre. This bella figura has gone too far.'

0:13:20 > 0:13:23'I still haven't had any fresh fish.

0:13:23 > 0:13:26'I'm going to get some, even if I have to catch it myself.'

0:13:30 > 0:13:33'My sailing days are over.

0:13:33 > 0:13:36'I'll leave it to Gennaro to make bella figura with those fisherman.'

0:13:36 > 0:13:40I love you. You are great friend.

0:13:40 > 0:13:44- Yeah, I know you've got bottle of wine there.- Yes.

0:13:44 > 0:13:47On the way back I'll bring us some anchovies.

0:13:50 > 0:13:54I'm going to miss you.

0:13:56 > 0:14:01Fishing for anchovies, this time of the night, this is my life.

0:14:01 > 0:14:05I've always been a fish man and now I am for real.

0:14:14 > 0:14:16This is hard work.

0:14:16 > 0:14:20'Even at sea at night, we look the part and we dress the best.'

0:14:30 > 0:14:35Incredible! I can't believe it. There's so much. Can you see?

0:14:35 > 0:14:38And I'm helping it.

0:14:49 > 0:14:51I just can't believe it.

0:14:53 > 0:14:56'You know what? I still got it!'

0:15:05 > 0:15:08'Gennaro always has been the performer.

0:15:08 > 0:15:12'It's the bella figura of a young man.'

0:15:16 > 0:15:21I discovered that in getting old, older, you are just content

0:15:21 > 0:15:27and happy to be who you are, so you don't need to show off.

0:15:35 > 0:15:38- Have you seen my anchovies? - The anchovies, they're perfect.

0:15:38 > 0:15:41I just love it. What a great fish man I am.

0:15:41 > 0:15:44- What do you think?- That's fantastic.

0:15:44 > 0:15:48They are fresh, they are nice. Now this recipe is extremely simple.

0:15:48 > 0:15:52First of all, you have to find those mullets.

0:15:52 > 0:15:55Short little ones, they are tender and nice.

0:15:55 > 0:15:59They're called Triglie alla Genovese.

0:15:59 > 0:16:03In Genoa, they like to do this, you know, and they unite two things.

0:16:03 > 0:16:07Fish of the sea, but also one product from the mountains

0:16:07 > 0:16:11which is the porcino and the combination is mind blowing.

0:16:12 > 0:16:17- Yes, this one.- Dry one.- Smell, smell.

0:16:17 > 0:16:19- Wow!- Wow!- Lovely.

0:16:19 > 0:16:22Now I need good olive oil in this pan.

0:16:22 > 0:16:25A little bit more, little bit more, little bit more.

0:16:25 > 0:16:27- More.- More and more. That's enough.

0:16:27 > 0:16:34First of all, they are coming into flour and you do like this.

0:16:34 > 0:16:39- Another one.- And do you know why I do this, in flour?- Why, tell me?

0:16:39 > 0:16:46The flour sticking on the fish is absorbing more sauce later,

0:16:46 > 0:16:52so now I shake off the superfluous flour,

0:16:52 > 0:16:55yes and then one by one.

0:16:55 > 0:16:59- Yes.- Yes.

0:16:59 > 0:17:02- Lovely.- Yeah.- Look at this.

0:17:02 > 0:17:07And now they become slightly brown on each side.

0:17:07 > 0:17:09I use good olive oil for this

0:17:09 > 0:17:16because it gives a lot of flavour and we are in Liguria here,

0:17:16 > 0:17:20plenty of olive oil. Perfect. Look at this.

0:17:20 > 0:17:22- At one time Gennaro... - Mmm hmm.

0:17:22 > 0:17:27..I was eating in a harbour, 20 of those and I was taking one by one

0:17:27 > 0:17:31and nibbling vah vah vah.

0:17:31 > 0:17:34- And the other side, vah vah vah. - Vah vah vah.

0:17:34 > 0:17:37And just like playing mouth harmonica.

0:17:37 > 0:17:41You were playing zrrrr shhhh zrrr shhhh.

0:17:41 > 0:17:45- No, you do that noise. I didn't.- All right.

0:17:45 > 0:17:51So we can now take them out and put them here.

0:17:51 > 0:17:56They are already edible as they are. So now give me the onions, please.

0:17:58 > 0:18:04Yes! And can you give me also the chopped garlic.

0:18:04 > 0:18:09- Put it in. Put it in. Well done. - What shall I do with this?

0:18:09 > 0:18:13- Now get the porcini. Can you chop them finely?- All?- Yes.

0:18:13 > 0:18:17The dried porcini you showed me before,

0:18:17 > 0:18:22- they are soaked in warm water for about 20 minutes, half an hour?- Yeah.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25The red mullet, Genovese style,

0:18:25 > 0:18:28it's because Liguria has the mountain in the back

0:18:28 > 0:18:31and the sea in the front.

0:18:31 > 0:18:33So we have the triglie

0:18:33 > 0:18:36and we have mushrooms from the hills and olive oil.

0:18:36 > 0:18:37Put in, put in, put in.

0:18:37 > 0:18:39- Mare e monti. - Yeah, mare e monti,

0:18:39 > 0:18:43and this gives a really wonderful flavour.

0:18:43 > 0:18:47Now the other ingredient is anchovy.

0:18:47 > 0:18:51This dish is simplicity in itself.

0:18:51 > 0:18:56Wonderful. Can I have the tomatoes now?

0:18:56 > 0:18:59I give you that honour. Lovely.

0:18:59 > 0:19:03Oh, look at this. Mmmmmmm.

0:19:03 > 0:19:07- Any stock, any water? - No, a bit of water, actually.

0:19:07 > 0:19:10Off.

0:19:10 > 0:19:15The last item I need is a little bit of chopped parsley.

0:19:17 > 0:19:19- You can chop, you know. - I know.

0:19:19 > 0:19:25Put it in. Yes. So now the sauce is complete.

0:19:25 > 0:19:27One.

0:19:27 > 0:19:31- Can't wait to eat it.- Six.

0:19:31 > 0:19:33Put the potatoes here. Yes.

0:19:33 > 0:19:38I also made a lovely potato mash.

0:19:38 > 0:19:42The best tip to make a wonderful potato puree

0:19:42 > 0:19:46is to choose very floury potatoes, a little bit of nutmeg.

0:19:48 > 0:19:52Good, enough. Thank you.

0:19:52 > 0:19:56- I love it when you say thank you. - Well, I am a gentleman.

0:19:56 > 0:20:00- Yeah, the first time. Salt.- Wonderful.

0:20:00 > 0:20:04And the potato's ready.

0:20:04 > 0:20:09Oh, that's wonderful. Look at this.

0:20:09 > 0:20:14Gennaro, this is a piece for you.

0:20:16 > 0:20:21- Can't wait to eat it. - Wonderful.

0:20:21 > 0:20:24- It's all for you. - For me, it's...

0:20:24 > 0:20:26Yes, it's just for you.

0:20:26 > 0:20:28- Ah, for me as well?- OK. Shall we?

0:20:28 > 0:20:30Does it look good for you, Gennaro?

0:20:30 > 0:20:34Just a minute. Let's have a look.

0:20:34 > 0:20:38BOTH: Mmm-mmm-mmm-mmm-mmm!

0:20:38 > 0:20:41That's really wonderful.

0:20:43 > 0:20:46My goodness, that's good.

0:20:46 > 0:20:50Mmm.

0:20:52 > 0:20:53Wonderful.

0:20:53 > 0:20:56- You know what is needed here? - What's needed?

0:20:56 > 0:20:59A nice glass of wine.

0:21:01 > 0:21:05'From posh Portofino to expensive olive oil,

0:21:05 > 0:21:09'the bella figura we have found so far

0:21:09 > 0:21:14'has only been about showing off with money or for money.

0:21:14 > 0:21:16'But in our day, no matter how little you had,

0:21:16 > 0:21:20'you could still put on a beautiful show.

0:21:20 > 0:21:24'In the simple mountain village of Mendatica,

0:21:24 > 0:21:28'some old traditions are kept alive at an annual festival.'

0:21:28 > 0:21:31The real Liguria is here, up in the mountains.

0:21:31 > 0:21:35'A local shepherd is making an unusual fuss over his flock.

0:21:39 > 0:21:42'In celebration of transumanza,

0:21:42 > 0:21:47'the migration of the flocks from the highlands to the lowlands for winter,

0:21:47 > 0:21:50'the whole village dresses up.

0:21:52 > 0:21:57'Young and old alike all making the best of themselves.'

0:21:57 > 0:22:01Have a look at the small children. Bravo, bravo.

0:22:01 > 0:22:04Bravo! Bravo!

0:22:04 > 0:22:05APPLAUSE

0:22:05 > 0:22:09'Everybody really participate with a lot of pride.'

0:22:10 > 0:22:13Bravi!

0:22:19 > 0:22:24'The sheep and goats put their best hooves forward.

0:22:27 > 0:22:33'Everything looks wonderful until Gennaro scares the animals.'

0:22:33 > 0:22:37- Gennaro, they saw you.- No, they look at you.- No, they saw you.

0:22:37 > 0:22:43I am sure they look at you. I don't move.

0:22:45 > 0:22:50'The main event is the Palio delle Capre, where shepherds from the six mountain pastures

0:22:50 > 0:22:53'pit their best goats against each other.

0:22:53 > 0:22:56'It's all organised by Aldo, the shepherd.'

0:22:56 > 0:23:01- Quante pecore c'hai?- Io ne ho 1,500.

0:23:01 > 0:23:03Wow, he has 1,500 sheep and goat.

0:23:10 > 0:23:13- Antonio?- Yes?- Have you noticed it, how proud is Aldo?

0:23:15 > 0:23:17'And now for the obstacle race.

0:23:18 > 0:23:23'Even though we are in Italy, the winner's not the prettiest goat

0:23:23 > 0:23:27'but the goat most obedient to his master.'

0:23:34 > 0:23:40You always loved that. Antonio, quick!

0:23:47 > 0:23:50It's wonderful to see the first one,

0:23:50 > 0:23:55the blonde goat won the first heat and it's very, very sweet.

0:24:00 > 0:24:03'It is not important who wins,

0:24:03 > 0:24:07'but it is everybody making bella figura, that is more important.'

0:24:11 > 0:24:14'Here it's the whole village making bella figura.

0:24:14 > 0:24:19'Not for money, but out of pride in the traditions, their history

0:24:19 > 0:24:22'and their community.'

0:24:22 > 0:24:24Are you proud of what's happened today?

0:24:24 > 0:24:31Si, sono molto orgoglioso - questa manifestazione, praticamente, l'ho inventata io. Sono molto orgoglioso.

0:24:31 > 0:24:36Yes, yes, he's very, very proud because this sort of gathering

0:24:36 > 0:24:40was created by him and he is very proud of that.

0:24:40 > 0:24:44What does bella figura mean for you? Cos'e la bella figura per te?

0:24:57 > 0:24:59- Grazie.- Si?

0:25:00 > 0:25:05The villagers, the shepherds and their flocks

0:25:05 > 0:25:07put on a splendid show with limited means.

0:25:07 > 0:25:09Can the local cooks do the same?

0:25:09 > 0:25:11High up here in the mountains,

0:25:11 > 0:25:16there are no red tomatoes or yellow peppers, no oranges or lemons,

0:25:16 > 0:25:19nearly all the food produce is pale.

0:25:21 > 0:25:23- Buongiorno!- Buongiorno!

0:25:23 > 0:25:28'The people who cook here use plain ingredients

0:25:28 > 0:25:32'and transform them into something more beautiful.

0:25:32 > 0:25:36'In fact, the cuisine is famous, it's called cucina bianca, white cooking.'

0:25:37 > 0:25:39Wonderful potatoes, look at this!

0:25:39 > 0:25:43- Look at these, Gennaro.- Oh, my God.

0:25:43 > 0:25:47Potato put in the oven with just garlic, sage and rosemary.

0:25:47 > 0:25:48A bit of salt.

0:25:50 > 0:25:52Antonio!

0:25:52 > 0:25:55Questa e cucina bianca.

0:25:55 > 0:25:58This is the white cooking, and we can taste.

0:25:59 > 0:26:01Mmm.

0:26:03 > 0:26:05E cosa c'e qui dentro?

0:26:05 > 0:26:09Farina e porro tagliato sottile, sottile crudo.

0:26:09 > 0:26:13Si mescola tutto e un po' di panna.

0:26:13 > 0:26:15Wow!

0:26:15 > 0:26:18So they are very thin sliced potatoes, and double cream,

0:26:18 > 0:26:22and a little bit of leek, very, very fine leek chopped, and that's it.

0:26:27 > 0:26:28That's it.

0:26:30 > 0:26:31Time for lunch.

0:26:32 > 0:26:36The communal feast of San Mateo.

0:26:36 > 0:26:37But not for Gennaro.

0:26:44 > 0:26:47Antonio...

0:26:47 > 0:26:49Ooh, bello...

0:26:49 > 0:26:50It is your wine.

0:26:50 > 0:26:53- That's fantastic.- This is your glass. - Thank you.

0:26:53 > 0:26:57- This is your dish.- Yes.- This is for you.- Thank you.

0:26:57 > 0:26:58And where is the fork?

0:26:58 > 0:27:00Where is the fork?

0:27:00 > 0:27:03- That is your fork.- Thank you.

0:27:03 > 0:27:05- You OK now?- I am OK now.

0:27:05 > 0:27:07- Are you sure?- Really, cos...

0:27:07 > 0:27:10- Don't you want anything? - I am talking to the young lady.- OK!

0:27:10 > 0:27:11Thank you very much, I'm going.

0:27:13 > 0:27:17'But cucina bianca is not just another money-making idea.

0:27:17 > 0:27:20'Or more fancy packaging.

0:27:20 > 0:27:22'It's almost as ancient as...as I. '

0:27:22 > 0:27:30MUSIC: "Miserere mei, Deus" by Gregorio Allegri

0:27:31 > 0:27:32Antonio.

0:27:34 > 0:27:35Where do you take me?

0:27:35 > 0:27:37Look at the fresco.

0:27:37 > 0:27:39That is wonderful.

0:27:39 > 0:27:40It's the Last Supper.

0:27:42 > 0:27:45Also it's a little faint, it's quite a few hundred years old.

0:27:45 > 0:27:48Yeah.

0:27:48 > 0:27:53Gennaro, I see that it's quite pale, everything.

0:27:53 > 0:27:56Well, everything is white to resemble what, actually,

0:27:56 > 0:27:59the people, they used to live off.

0:27:59 > 0:28:03It is the white cuisine. Cucina Bianca.

0:28:03 > 0:28:06With the exception of the wine.

0:28:06 > 0:28:08Oh, the wine as well, yeah, I know.

0:28:08 > 0:28:09But the red wine.

0:28:09 > 0:28:12Red wine, yes, but wine, Antonio, to be on the table of Christ,

0:28:12 > 0:28:13- has to be red wine.- Oh, yes.

0:28:15 > 0:28:17It is marvellous.

0:28:23 > 0:28:26This is an homage to cucina bianca.

0:28:26 > 0:28:29First...

0:28:29 > 0:28:30get some nice potato.

0:28:32 > 0:28:33You slice it.

0:28:33 > 0:28:35Be careful your hands.

0:28:35 > 0:28:37And this potato now, you have to blanch.

0:28:37 > 0:28:42You don't have to overcook it. They don't have to be too, too soft.

0:28:42 > 0:28:43It's just blanched.

0:28:43 > 0:28:46So, goes in boiling water for three minutes.

0:28:46 > 0:28:48- Slightly cooked.- Yes.

0:28:48 > 0:28:52So as soon as the water started to boil. To boil, you remove.

0:28:54 > 0:28:56Put them on a cloth.

0:28:56 > 0:28:59To dry a little bit the potato.

0:28:59 > 0:29:03They won't go black now,

0:29:03 > 0:29:04because they have been blanched.

0:29:04 > 0:29:06Now comes the cabbage.

0:29:06 > 0:29:09You get these nice leaves of the cabbage,

0:29:09 > 0:29:12make sure you get those tender leaves of the cabbage.

0:29:15 > 0:29:16HE SIGHS

0:29:16 > 0:29:18- Exceptional!- Exceptional.

0:29:18 > 0:29:22Now, what we have to worry about, it is,

0:29:22 > 0:29:25this vein, this is the line of the cabbage, which,

0:29:25 > 0:29:29it can be a little bit tough, so instead of using a knife,

0:29:29 > 0:29:32use the scissors.

0:29:32 > 0:29:34- Simple.- Simple!

0:29:35 > 0:29:39- Do you want to try?- No, thank you. - Are you sure?- I'm not a goat.

0:29:39 > 0:29:40GENNARO LAUGHS

0:29:40 > 0:29:41- Put them in.- Inside, yes.

0:29:41 > 0:29:43Inside. OK.

0:29:43 > 0:29:45Press them a little bit.

0:29:46 > 0:29:47And you cook them how long?

0:29:47 > 0:29:49It just needs to be blanched.

0:29:49 > 0:29:52Don't forget, this particular dish, it needs to be baked.

0:29:53 > 0:29:57- So.- To be cooked further later, then?- Yeah.

0:29:57 > 0:29:58It's stopped.

0:29:58 > 0:30:01Get the butter

0:30:01 > 0:30:05and spread the butter about all around the dish.

0:30:05 > 0:30:06You start with the potatoes.

0:30:06 > 0:30:09You start with the potato, and such a simple, this one.

0:30:10 > 0:30:12You overlap almost every single one,

0:30:12 > 0:30:18and then you carry on overlapping.

0:30:18 > 0:30:23A little salt, a little bit of pe... Pepper!

0:30:23 > 0:30:25Pepper. BOTH: Well done!

0:30:25 > 0:30:26ANTONIO: Well done, Gennaro.

0:30:26 > 0:30:29A little bit of butter.

0:30:29 > 0:30:32Just a little tiny bit of butter, because it has to melt.

0:30:32 > 0:30:34That lovely butter.

0:30:34 > 0:30:37- Those, they're ready, can I have that?- Oh, yes.

0:30:37 > 0:30:39It is all soft, you can see.

0:30:39 > 0:30:40Look at that.

0:30:40 > 0:30:43You lay a few.

0:30:45 > 0:30:47- It looks very easy, very nice and neat.- Yeah, that's good.

0:30:48 > 0:30:51That's done. You can see, easy.

0:30:51 > 0:30:53And then, cheese.

0:30:53 > 0:30:58- Lovely Italian cheese.- Yeah. - Smell it again.- Yes.

0:30:58 > 0:31:00OK, then cut the little slices.

0:31:00 > 0:31:04Carry on exactly the same way.

0:31:04 > 0:31:06What do you finish with?

0:31:06 > 0:31:07- I finish with the potato. - The potato.

0:31:07 > 0:31:10I have to finish with the potato.

0:31:12 > 0:31:13Aluminium foil.

0:31:13 > 0:31:14- Yes.- Oh, yes.

0:31:16 > 0:31:18Put them in the oven, go on.

0:31:18 > 0:31:20Yeah, I know, go on, go on, go on, go on.

0:31:20 > 0:31:22Go on! Don't be afraid.

0:31:22 > 0:31:25Don't be afraid, I am afraid that I burn my...

0:31:25 > 0:31:26OK.

0:31:27 > 0:31:30'After 25 minutes, remove the foil,

0:31:30 > 0:31:33'and bake it for another five minutes.'

0:31:37 > 0:31:38Yes.

0:31:41 > 0:31:44- Here we go!- That looks wonderful, Gennaro.

0:31:45 > 0:31:47Aha!

0:31:47 > 0:31:48Bubbling.

0:31:48 > 0:31:50That's lovely.

0:31:50 > 0:31:51Aah!

0:31:51 > 0:31:53ANTONIO SIGHS

0:31:53 > 0:31:56- Nice and bubbly.- The smell is wonderful.- Oh, my goodness me.

0:31:57 > 0:31:59THEY SIGH

0:32:00 > 0:32:01Ooh, wow!

0:32:01 > 0:32:04Ooh, wow. Looks very good.

0:32:07 > 0:32:09GENNARO BLOWS

0:32:16 > 0:32:20- Really, really good.- Aah, yes! Can I taste it?

0:32:20 > 0:32:22You know what? That's a lovely combination.

0:32:22 > 0:32:24Mmm!

0:32:24 > 0:32:26Very good.

0:32:26 > 0:32:27Mm-mm!

0:32:27 > 0:32:28Mm-mm.

0:32:29 > 0:32:31Why you do that?

0:32:31 > 0:32:33Cos it was hot.

0:32:33 > 0:32:35- Gennaro...- Mmm.

0:32:36 > 0:32:38Wonderful taste.

0:32:38 > 0:32:41Of cabbage, potato and cheese.

0:32:41 > 0:32:48It's very difficult to achieve a delicacy like this

0:32:48 > 0:32:52with just three very humble ingredients.

0:32:53 > 0:32:54Mmm...mmm...

0:32:54 > 0:32:58And the super touch of Gennaro Contaldo obvious.

0:32:58 > 0:32:59Mmm.

0:32:59 > 0:33:04It is an homage to cucina bianca. Bless the cucina bianca.

0:33:11 > 0:33:16'The higher we go and the further we get from the busy Riviera,

0:33:16 > 0:33:19'the more we can appreciate simple things.'

0:33:20 > 0:33:22Figs! Figs!

0:33:24 > 0:33:26Oh

0:33:26 > 0:33:28'Gennaro is the main stealer.'

0:33:28 > 0:33:30Yeah...

0:33:30 > 0:33:32Take it, take it.

0:33:32 > 0:33:35- Take it.- If you push it a little more here, I can take it.

0:33:35 > 0:33:37You son.

0:33:40 > 0:33:42Mmm... They are wonderful.

0:33:44 > 0:33:47THEY LAUGH

0:33:47 > 0:33:49Mmm...

0:33:49 > 0:33:51- Mm-hm!- You greedy Italian.

0:33:57 > 0:33:59- Chestnuts!- Chestnuts.- Chestnuts!

0:33:59 > 0:34:02I'm going to get those. Stay there, stay there, Antonio. Stay there.

0:34:02 > 0:34:03Stay there, stay there.

0:34:03 > 0:34:05HANDBRAKE IS PULLED

0:34:05 > 0:34:08'Trouble is, we are not the only greedy Italians round here,

0:34:08 > 0:34:11'and these ones bite.'

0:34:11 > 0:34:12I've got it, I...

0:34:12 > 0:34:13Let's see, let's see.

0:34:13 > 0:34:15Let's see, let's see, let's see!

0:34:15 > 0:34:17- Antonio! - HE LAUGHS Oh, that's fantastic.

0:34:17 > 0:34:19- Ah...- Ah! - HE LAUGHS

0:34:19 > 0:34:22Look at this. There are the chestnuts here.

0:34:22 > 0:34:23Yeah...

0:34:23 > 0:34:25- Yeah, take this one.- Ooh, lovely.

0:34:25 > 0:34:28- Hey!- Look at that!

0:34:28 > 0:34:30Look, he's underneath, on top.

0:34:30 > 0:34:32And they do bite, these things.

0:34:32 > 0:34:35- Antonio?- Yes.

0:34:35 > 0:34:36I love food.

0:34:36 > 0:34:40- Yes.- You know, to eat, not... - To gather.

0:34:40 > 0:34:41To actually been eat from.

0:34:41 > 0:34:43ANTONIO LAUGHS

0:34:47 > 0:34:49Don't look at me!

0:34:49 > 0:34:51ANTONIO LAUGHS

0:34:51 > 0:34:53Ma io ce l'ho davvero!

0:34:53 > 0:34:54Wonderful.

0:34:54 > 0:34:58ANTONIO LAUGHS Gennaro, you made them a big favour today.

0:35:00 > 0:35:02What do you mean, make a big favour?

0:35:02 > 0:35:04Yeah, they nibbled a bit from your flesh.

0:35:09 > 0:35:13'Maybe there's a different meaning to bella figura.

0:35:13 > 0:35:14'Sometimes the less you have,

0:35:14 > 0:35:17'the more beautiful an impression you can make.'

0:35:22 > 0:35:24'We are heading up Montoggio.

0:35:24 > 0:35:28'At the top of the mountain, there lives a little old lady

0:35:28 > 0:35:29'who leads a simple life

0:35:29 > 0:35:34'and makes use of the plants most of us would call weeds.'

0:35:34 > 0:35:35- Qui.- Qui, dove?

0:35:35 > 0:35:38'Perhaps she has a lesson for us.

0:35:38 > 0:35:42- Quello.- Questa qui?

0:35:42 > 0:35:44Questo.

0:35:44 > 0:35:46Borage.

0:36:11 > 0:36:12How clever she is.

0:36:12 > 0:36:17You put a just little slice of prosciutto,

0:36:17 > 0:36:21and then you get a nice little bit of mozzarella, and...

0:36:21 > 0:36:23E si fa nella padella con burro.

0:36:23 > 0:36:27And then you put some butter inside the frying pan,

0:36:27 > 0:36:30and then you slowly, slowly cook, er, you eat.

0:36:30 > 0:36:38'Amelia do simple things with wild herbs. She reminds me of my mother.'

0:36:46 > 0:36:49Ecco, questa e medicinale.

0:37:03 > 0:37:06She brings me memory back.

0:37:08 > 0:37:11I used to go out with my mum, and she used to say,

0:37:11 > 0:37:14"Gennarino, pick me that herbs."

0:37:14 > 0:37:17I used to do all this, and we used to go out once a week,

0:37:17 > 0:37:20collect the herbs for salads, for cooking.

0:37:20 > 0:37:26Also for medicine. She was known as the white witch.

0:37:40 > 0:37:42Cos'e questa?

0:37:50 > 0:37:52Can you understand, my God,

0:37:52 > 0:37:56the way she's actually got the harmony with the food?

0:37:56 > 0:37:58It's like almost the poetry.

0:37:58 > 0:38:02She is not aggressive, "I have to learn all these things myself,"

0:38:02 > 0:38:05it's, cooking is not aggressiveness.

0:38:05 > 0:38:06It's pleasure, it's love,

0:38:06 > 0:38:11and everything she's been showing to me, she brings back memory.

0:38:11 > 0:38:14The calm of the cooking, the love of the cooking.

0:38:15 > 0:38:20'Amelia is going to show me how to make a frittata

0:38:20 > 0:38:24'with potato and wild herbs that was just growing outside.'

0:38:26 > 0:38:28Parmigiano, quanto?

0:38:28 > 0:38:29Un bel po'.

0:38:29 > 0:38:32'Some eggs, mixed with Parmesan cheese.'

0:38:32 > 0:38:35- Un pizzico di sale. - Un pizzico di sale.

0:38:35 > 0:38:37'A nice pinch of salt.

0:38:37 > 0:38:41'And now she mills the potato with wild herbs

0:38:41 > 0:38:43'to separate out the stalk.'

0:38:44 > 0:38:47Potato,

0:38:47 > 0:38:51the herbs that gives nice flavour.

0:38:51 > 0:38:54Puliamo qui.

0:38:54 > 0:38:56She said you clean them underneath.

0:38:59 > 0:39:03And look! How clever. This is all the leftover stuff.

0:39:03 > 0:39:06Stuff you can't eat it. More, more, more...

0:39:06 > 0:39:10'Now, to bind the mixture together, we need some breadcrumb.'

0:39:18 > 0:39:20All. I love it!

0:39:20 > 0:39:21THEY LAUGH

0:39:21 > 0:39:23- Tutto!- Tutto!- Tutto!

0:39:23 > 0:39:26Bravo.

0:39:26 > 0:39:27Then fry some sliced onion.

0:39:35 > 0:39:36Then we need to put them all inside.

0:39:39 > 0:39:41All inside.

0:39:44 > 0:39:47'Then fry the frittata in olive oil.

0:39:47 > 0:39:52'Add more breadcrumb to give it a crust. It's almost time to eat.'

0:39:53 > 0:39:55Antonio!

0:39:55 > 0:39:58What damage... What damage have you done today?

0:39:58 > 0:40:02- Look, sit down, please. Sit down. - OK, OK.- Thank you very much.

0:40:02 > 0:40:04Damage! Stop complaining and sit down.

0:40:04 > 0:40:07- But you had very good supervision. - Yes, I know, indeed.

0:40:07 > 0:40:08OK?

0:40:08 > 0:40:10Ecco.

0:40:10 > 0:40:12Wow!

0:40:12 > 0:40:15- Tolgo queste cipolle di qua.- Eh, si!

0:40:21 > 0:40:23Let's see.

0:40:23 > 0:40:26- Mmm...- Let's see. It looks very good.

0:40:26 > 0:40:32We have the task, is to have it very well cooked on the outside

0:40:32 > 0:40:34and moist in the middle.

0:40:34 > 0:40:36Mmmm.

0:40:36 > 0:40:39It's good.

0:40:39 > 0:40:40Molto buona.

0:40:40 > 0:40:45La frittata povera. La nonna diceva, "Facciamo una frittata povera."

0:40:45 > 0:40:46Frittata for the poor,

0:40:46 > 0:40:52because they are very simple ingredients inside,

0:40:52 > 0:40:55and you can feed the family with poor food.

0:40:55 > 0:40:59Not poor food in quality, but in value.

0:40:59 > 0:41:03- Frittata e molto buona.- Grazie. Grazie mille.

0:41:03 > 0:41:07- Lei ha fatto una bellisima figura. - Anche al signore.

0:41:07 > 0:41:09Cos I'm jealous.

0:41:09 > 0:41:10AMELIA LAUGHS

0:41:10 > 0:41:11Molto bella.

0:41:11 > 0:41:15'Simple food, made with pride, and not just showing off.

0:41:15 > 0:41:17'Just like my mother would have done.'

0:41:21 > 0:41:25'We have found authentic versions of bella figura

0:41:25 > 0:41:27'in the simple life of the mountains.'

0:41:28 > 0:41:33But how has it survived in the bustling capital of Liguria?

0:41:38 > 0:41:43Known as La Superba, Genoa's fleet was once so powerful,

0:41:43 > 0:41:46it controlled the whole Mediterranean Sea.

0:41:48 > 0:41:50I was in the Navy when I was young.

0:41:53 > 0:41:54A proud sailor.

0:42:03 > 0:42:07'We are following our noses through ancient alleyways to the old port

0:42:07 > 0:42:10'in search of a beautiful secret.'

0:42:11 > 0:42:13Aaaah!

0:42:13 > 0:42:16'Some other shops like this have not changed for centuries.'

0:42:16 > 0:42:18Fantastico!

0:42:18 > 0:42:21'Nothing fancy, just Genoese fish and chips.'

0:42:21 > 0:42:23Ooh! Look at that.

0:42:23 > 0:42:26Look at that.

0:42:26 > 0:42:28This is the shop of my heart.

0:42:28 > 0:42:30Oh, look at it!

0:42:30 > 0:42:32Wood-fired oven.

0:42:32 > 0:42:34This is real food.

0:42:34 > 0:42:37No doubt about it.

0:42:37 > 0:42:40The food is just fantastic.

0:42:40 > 0:42:44You cook on the charcoal, you cook with wood, you do the original food.

0:42:44 > 0:42:47Gennaro, why do you have to move the hands always like this?

0:42:47 > 0:42:48Because it's the passion!

0:42:48 > 0:42:50For me it's like to revive them again,

0:42:50 > 0:42:53like to learn again how to cook. The simplicity...

0:42:53 > 0:42:54Can you do it without the hands?

0:42:54 > 0:42:56No, I can't.

0:42:56 > 0:42:59'Old-fashioned Genoese pride survives

0:42:59 > 0:43:01'in this fiercely traditional kitchen.

0:43:01 > 0:43:04'Even the old fryers have a special title.

0:43:04 > 0:43:08They are called friggitorie, where the people,

0:43:08 > 0:43:12they fry all sorts of goods for the breakfast.

0:43:12 > 0:43:15It's just fantastic. Home-made real chips.

0:43:15 > 0:43:18Ci puo dare un po' di queste asciughe?

0:43:18 > 0:43:24Senta un po', ma qual'e la cosa che piu richiedono qui?

0:43:24 > 0:43:27What is the thing that they most request, the customers?

0:43:27 > 0:43:30Le cose diciamo piu richieste sono i totani fritti

0:43:30 > 0:43:32che facciamo alle undici e mezza,

0:43:32 > 0:43:36che piaciono veramente a tutti. E il baccala fritto.

0:43:36 > 0:43:40So the most popular thing, they are totani, which is a sort of...

0:43:40 > 0:43:42- Er...not octopus.- It is a squid.

0:43:42 > 0:43:45A squid, a longish squid, then the baccala,

0:43:45 > 0:43:50which is the salted cod, and they do it around 11:00am, 11:30am,

0:43:50 > 0:43:52so that it's fresh, you can take it away.

0:43:52 > 0:43:57'The locals claim this is the original takeaway food.'

0:43:57 > 0:44:03- Fresh anchovies, Gennaro. Yum, yum, yum.- Mmm.

0:44:04 > 0:44:05Ah...

0:44:05 > 0:44:07In carpione, it's called.

0:44:07 > 0:44:11In carpione means in flour and deep-fried,

0:44:11 > 0:44:14and then put in vinegar, and they are little fishes, like, um...

0:44:14 > 0:44:16Oh, and you eat everything!

0:44:19 > 0:44:21Mamma, mamma, mamma!

0:44:21 > 0:44:26The port is there, the food is here, and everybody,

0:44:26 > 0:44:30all these Navy people, they were coming here, buying very quickly.

0:44:30 > 0:44:34'And what better to go with battered fish? Chips.'

0:44:34 > 0:44:39'Not made from potato, but cut from the local speciality, farinata,

0:44:39 > 0:44:43once prepared by the Roman soldiers in their shields.

0:44:43 > 0:44:47You have to notice that this, they are not just chips,

0:44:47 > 0:44:48but they are chips made of chickpeas flour.

0:44:48 > 0:44:53Very interesting, because it's very, sort of, flavoursome, and so on.

0:44:53 > 0:44:59And this is the famous baccala, which is the salted cod.

0:44:59 > 0:45:02This one used to be the poor man food.

0:45:02 > 0:45:03Poor man fish.

0:45:03 > 0:45:07Now, when you're talking about two greedy Italians,

0:45:07 > 0:45:11you can see who is the greediest, over there.

0:45:11 > 0:45:14HE LAUGHS

0:45:15 > 0:45:19'It was here that Genoese traders first brought from India

0:45:19 > 0:45:22'what is now our most famous herb.

0:45:22 > 0:45:24'Just as well.

0:45:24 > 0:45:26'Can you imagine Italian food without basil?'

0:45:31 > 0:45:34- Who never heard of pesto, Gennaro? - No.

0:45:34 > 0:45:35Pesto. Pesto.

0:45:35 > 0:45:40Known all over the world, and it comes from Genoa, from Liguria.

0:45:40 > 0:45:44- So you will do the pasta today, yes? - Yeah, I'm rolling the pasta.

0:45:44 > 0:45:46And do you know which pasta to do?

0:45:46 > 0:45:47Yes, er...

0:45:47 > 0:45:49The recipe's called mandilli de seta. Silk handkerchief.

0:45:49 > 0:45:52Silk handkerchief, oh, I love those with pesto.

0:45:52 > 0:45:54Flavoured with pesto.

0:45:54 > 0:45:59The best thing to do is to do it with the mortar and pestle,

0:45:59 > 0:46:04because we want the pesto to be a cream.

0:46:07 > 0:46:09Thank you, thank you.

0:46:09 > 0:46:13It's...what would be life without Gennaro?

0:46:13 > 0:46:18So now we take the garlic, which... Gennaro is a very strong man.

0:46:18 > 0:46:22He does it with a fist. But I do it with this.

0:46:22 > 0:46:24Gennaro, why you don't start to do the, the pasta.

0:46:24 > 0:46:26I'm waiting for your recipe, the one you wanted.

0:46:26 > 0:46:33Yeah, just put 250g of flour, yeah. This is 00 flour.

0:46:33 > 0:46:3500, fine flour, yes?

0:46:35 > 0:46:38There's one egg and three yolks of egg.

0:46:38 > 0:46:41Just the yolk, otherwise it becomes too hard.

0:46:41 > 0:46:42OK.

0:46:42 > 0:46:44- Three, three yolks.- Three yolks, OK.

0:46:44 > 0:46:51And coarse salt for grinding the entire thing.

0:46:51 > 0:46:57Because with the coarseness, you can see that the cream will come out.

0:46:59 > 0:47:02- Antonio?- Yes.- Look at the colour of this yolk.- That's fantastic.

0:47:02 > 0:47:08Now the garlic, Gennaro, I put it squashed into the mortar.

0:47:09 > 0:47:17And now the garlic and the basil soon become a cream.

0:47:17 > 0:47:21And now we add also pine kernels,

0:47:21 > 0:47:25which, they add the sort of je ne sais quoi.

0:47:25 > 0:47:27- HE LAUGHS - What language are you speaking?

0:47:27 > 0:47:31- That's French.- That's all right, I remembered that.

0:47:31 > 0:47:37..of flavour, of sort of the resin flavour of the pines.

0:47:37 > 0:47:41- That's very, very good.- And give it that crunchiness, yes?

0:47:41 > 0:47:44- No, because it's all pounded. - OK.- Not crunchy.

0:47:44 > 0:47:46And you mustn't forget that all those things,

0:47:46 > 0:47:49they come because the hills of Liguria,

0:47:49 > 0:47:53they're almost covered with all those ingredients

0:47:53 > 0:47:56that we put in the pestle and mortar.

0:47:56 > 0:47:59Pine kernels, the basil is cultivated everywhere.

0:47:59 > 0:48:04Gennaro, I can see that you're so fascinated with what I'm telling you,

0:48:04 > 0:48:05that you stop working there.

0:48:05 > 0:48:07You're right. Sorry.

0:48:07 > 0:48:09- HE LAUGHS - Sorry, sorry, Antonio.

0:48:09 > 0:48:14And so the pesto became like this, the sauce of Genoa.

0:48:14 > 0:48:16- Very, very clever. - Of Liguria.

0:48:16 > 0:48:20That's wonderful, and now you put the Parmesan cheese,

0:48:20 > 0:48:23which in some cases, I put even pecorino.

0:48:23 > 0:48:25Pecorino is nice. I like pecorino cheese.

0:48:25 > 0:48:29A little bit of olive oil.

0:48:29 > 0:48:33Ah, that's wonderful. And the perfume which comes from this.

0:48:35 > 0:48:36Yes, look at this.

0:48:36 > 0:48:39It should be slightly coarse.

0:48:39 > 0:48:43- Perfection. What about your pasta? - Don't worry.

0:48:43 > 0:48:46You can see, Antonio, I almost finished rolling the pasta out.

0:48:46 > 0:48:51The lovely colour of the pasta, it's incredible, look.

0:48:51 > 0:48:53See how I hold it.

0:48:53 > 0:48:57Yes, at home you could do it also, simply using a machine,

0:48:57 > 0:48:59but this is the best way.

0:48:59 > 0:49:02- And look at the way it's rolling out nicely.- Yes.

0:49:02 > 0:49:04It has to be very thin.

0:49:04 > 0:49:08Yet, but very poetically, mandilli di seta.

0:49:08 > 0:49:10- So silk handkerchief.- Very dialect.

0:49:10 > 0:49:14Because the handkerchief, the translation is mandilli,

0:49:14 > 0:49:18is almost paper-thin, and the handkerchiefs,

0:49:18 > 0:49:20they were a functional thing, goodbye to the mariners,

0:49:20 > 0:49:24whether they were going or coming back.

0:49:24 > 0:49:28- Thin, thin, thin.- I know, I'm doing that. Thin, thin, thin!

0:49:28 > 0:49:30- Come on... My goodness. - It worries me.

0:49:30 > 0:49:33Now to see how thin it is.

0:49:33 > 0:49:37- You put them on, on the edge.- Yes. - OK, and then you blow, underneath.

0:49:39 > 0:49:42- Wonderful, so the weight, yes... - So when this...

0:49:42 > 0:49:43Can I have it now?

0:49:43 > 0:49:46That... Don't you think it's thin enough?

0:49:46 > 0:49:50Now I show you what handkerchiefs are, because, instead to cut them,

0:49:50 > 0:49:53I make the discovery, Gennaro,

0:49:53 > 0:49:57that if you do it like this, look, like this.

0:49:57 > 0:49:59- Yeah.- You tear it apart.

0:49:59 > 0:50:04Do you see this, this serrated edge here?

0:50:04 > 0:50:10In doing this, look, it builds a little bit of serrating here,

0:50:10 > 0:50:12which absorbs a little bit more sauce.

0:50:12 > 0:50:14- Can I try?- Yes.

0:50:14 > 0:50:15Go.

0:50:15 > 0:50:18Not too, too small. Make it bigger.

0:50:18 > 0:50:20The handkerchiefs would be bigger.

0:50:20 > 0:50:25And then it's lovely to let them dry a little bit like this.

0:50:25 > 0:50:26Fantastic.

0:50:26 > 0:50:27Let's see the water...

0:50:27 > 0:50:29Yes!

0:50:29 > 0:50:30Now give me the pasta.

0:50:30 > 0:50:32Right.

0:50:32 > 0:50:35And it cooks in a minute, no more than that.

0:50:35 > 0:50:37Yes...

0:50:37 > 0:50:39Yes, yes, yes.

0:50:39 > 0:50:41Can you put the pesto in the pan now, please?

0:50:43 > 0:50:45Oh, yes.

0:50:45 > 0:50:46I just put it.

0:50:46 > 0:50:47Lovely.

0:50:51 > 0:50:53Give me the pan.

0:50:53 > 0:50:57This, a suggestion to everybody using either self-made pesto,

0:50:57 > 0:51:02or the other one, bought in, er...

0:51:02 > 0:51:08shops, to add a little bit of water to make it moist for the pasta,

0:51:08 > 0:51:12because it absorbs, the pasta absorbs a little bit more.

0:51:12 > 0:51:14I think it's done.

0:51:14 > 0:51:17- Yes, it's done, it's done.- Yeah.

0:51:17 > 0:51:18Mmm.

0:51:18 > 0:51:20The smell is incredible.

0:51:20 > 0:51:22Oops...

0:51:23 > 0:51:25Fantastico.

0:51:30 > 0:51:34- It's almost religious, the moment. - I know.

0:51:34 > 0:51:35So calm.

0:51:35 > 0:51:37- Yeah, I give you a little bit more. - Thank you.

0:51:37 > 0:51:40- Just a little, little sauce on top, Antonio?- Yes.

0:51:40 > 0:51:42Yeah, just a little touch, yes.

0:51:45 > 0:51:46- That's for you.- Thank you.

0:51:46 > 0:51:51- And that's for me.- Never was so much gentilesse between us.

0:51:51 > 0:51:52Never.

0:51:52 > 0:51:53Oh!

0:51:53 > 0:51:54ANTONIO LAUGHS

0:51:54 > 0:51:56- Can I...?- Yes, you can.

0:52:03 > 0:52:07BOTH: Mmm-mmm-mmm!

0:52:07 > 0:52:08THEY LAUGH

0:52:21 > 0:52:23GENNARO LAUGHS You are laughing.

0:52:23 > 0:52:24Of course I am laughing.

0:52:24 > 0:52:28- Now, if you keep the right side. - I am, I can see the sign.

0:52:28 > 0:52:30On a small road like this, it's better.

0:52:30 > 0:52:33'We came to Liguria to find out how the notion of bella figura

0:52:33 > 0:52:36'has changed in the Italy of today,

0:52:36 > 0:52:39'and how it has changed for us as we get older.

0:52:39 > 0:52:43'We began in the beautiful bay of Portofino,

0:52:43 > 0:52:46'and we're ending it in the most unlikely place -

0:52:46 > 0:52:48the back streets of Genoa.'

0:52:48 > 0:52:52- Gennaro, I want to show you something here, very special here.- What?

0:52:52 > 0:52:53Something special.

0:52:53 > 0:52:56'Here at the community of San Benedetto,

0:52:56 > 0:52:58'is a man who reaches out

0:52:58 > 0:53:02'to people who have stopped caring about bella figura -

0:53:02 > 0:53:05'the outcasts and misfits of society.

0:53:05 > 0:53:08'He is my friend, Don Andrea Gallo.

0:53:08 > 0:53:10APPLAUSE

0:53:16 > 0:53:21'Don Andrea provides a safe refuge in this commune, food,

0:53:21 > 0:53:24'and the chance to learn new skills.'

0:53:44 > 0:53:46Wonderful.

0:53:46 > 0:53:48That is bella figura.

0:53:48 > 0:53:49Yes, I know now.

0:53:49 > 0:53:51'This couple has been living rough,

0:53:51 > 0:53:54'and Don Andrea is helping them find a home.'

0:53:55 > 0:53:57Antonio.

0:53:57 > 0:53:59Antonio, Antonio.

0:53:59 > 0:54:00Antonio!

0:54:00 > 0:54:03- Quanti anni hai?- Trent'anni.

0:54:03 > 0:54:09- E nato in carcere. E venuto fare il battesimo.- Bravo, bravo.

0:54:09 > 0:54:13He has been born in a prison because his mother was in the prison,

0:54:13 > 0:54:15so he never got baptised,

0:54:15 > 0:54:20so that's why last week, at the age of 30, he became sort of baptised.

0:54:20 > 0:54:26It's unbelievable, all what is done through him, practically.

0:54:27 > 0:54:31'Don Andrea provides jobs,

0:54:31 > 0:54:34'and with them, a chance to regain a sense of pride.

0:54:34 > 0:54:40'30 years ago, he opened a simple trattoria for the public,

0:54:40 > 0:54:43'and everybody who works at La Lanterna

0:54:43 > 0:54:45'has come through the commune.

0:54:45 > 0:54:48'Former waifs and strays, like Eleanora.'

0:55:02 > 0:55:06La communita raggioneva sul fatto che io avessi bisogna di un appartamento,

0:55:06 > 0:55:10di un posto di lavoro per potere accogliere mio figlio in questa nuova vita.

0:55:12 > 0:55:15That was very kind, because they realised that she had a,

0:55:15 > 0:55:20sort of, five years old son, and she needed some accommodation,

0:55:20 > 0:55:22and a job, and they gave her a job here.

0:55:42 > 0:55:46'Two years ago, Loris asked Don Andrea for help.

0:55:46 > 0:55:51'Since then, she has also regained her pride and self respect.

0:56:04 > 0:56:05Bellissimo.

0:56:06 > 0:56:09That is what it is, bella figura.

0:56:09 > 0:56:10Not to show off.

0:56:10 > 0:56:13THEY SING IN ITALIAN

0:56:15 > 0:56:19'Today, this place is famous and very popular -

0:56:19 > 0:56:21'but it was not always so.'

0:57:05 > 0:57:09THEY SING

0:57:11 > 0:57:13ANTONIO LAUGHS

0:57:18 > 0:57:19ANTONIO LAUGHS

0:57:19 > 0:57:25All the food here has one vitamin more than others, and that is love.

0:57:25 > 0:57:28THEY SING

0:57:32 > 0:57:33APPLAUSE

0:57:34 > 0:57:37'Next time...'

0:57:37 > 0:57:41There is a lot of snow. You can make me an ice cream.

0:57:41 > 0:57:45'Gennaro and I are off to the Alps, in the region of Lombardy.'

0:57:45 > 0:57:48LAUGHTER

0:57:48 > 0:57:50Antonio! What cheese is this?

0:57:50 > 0:57:52A... A natural Viagra, they call it.

0:57:52 > 0:57:53LAUGHTER

0:57:53 > 0:57:56'We will be camping and fending for ourselves...'

0:57:56 > 0:57:58- GUNSHOT - Aargh!

0:57:58 > 0:57:59I missed it!

0:57:59 > 0:58:02HE LAUGHS

0:58:02 > 0:58:05'..as we live the life of arrangiarsi,

0:58:05 > 0:58:07'the ancient Italian art of getting by.'

0:58:07 > 0:58:09Gennaro, you are wonderful.

0:58:09 > 0:58:10HE LAUGHS

0:58:10 > 0:58:13Only Gennaro can do things like this.

0:58:13 > 0:58:17'And of course, we will be eating lots of delicious food.'

0:58:17 > 0:58:19Yum, yum.

0:58:19 > 0:58:21Yeah! Look what you put, fantastic dishes.

0:58:21 > 0:58:23It is incredible.

0:58:49 > 0:58:52Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd