The Alps and Arrangiarsi

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0:00:00 > 0:00:02Take it. Take it.

0:00:02 > 0:00:05'I am Antonio Carluccio.'

0:00:05 > 0:00:07Mmmm. They are wonderful.

0:00:07 > 0:00:10I grew up in the sophisticated North of Italy.

0:00:10 > 0:00:12'I left 50 years ago.'

0:00:12 > 0:00:13Ooooh!

0:00:13 > 0:00:15'But I still love it dearly.'

0:00:15 > 0:00:17Italia!

0:00:17 > 0:00:18Italia.

0:00:18 > 0:00:21'Now I am returning with my old friend.'

0:00:21 > 0:00:23Fantastico.

0:00:23 > 0:00:25Wow!

0:00:25 > 0:00:28- This is almost a religious act. - Oh, yeah.

0:00:28 > 0:00:30'I am Gennaro Contaldo.'

0:00:30 > 0:00:33I just can't believe it!

0:00:33 > 0:00:36I am from the sun and the sea of the South.

0:00:36 > 0:00:39- Home sweet home.- Unbelievable.

0:00:39 > 0:00:42'Our love of food has brought us together...'

0:00:42 > 0:00:43Yes or no?

0:00:43 > 0:00:46- Yes. Yes.- Ahhhh!

0:00:46 > 0:00:47Got it, got it, got it.

0:00:47 > 0:00:50'..and has kept us together - just!'

0:00:50 > 0:00:53- Gennaro, will you stop it? - Yeah, OK.

0:00:53 > 0:00:55I am really fed up.

0:00:55 > 0:00:57'When we grew up here after the war,

0:00:57 > 0:01:01'Italy was poor and we had to rely on our wits to survive.'

0:01:01 > 0:01:03Are you going to give me some milk? No you can't.

0:01:03 > 0:01:05Wait. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:01:05 > 0:01:09'We call it arte d'arrangiarsi -

0:01:09 > 0:01:11'the art of getting by.'

0:01:11 > 0:01:13Ah!

0:01:13 > 0:01:15Only Gennaro can do things like this.

0:01:15 > 0:01:19'We want to find if we can still get by using the art

0:01:19 > 0:01:22'of arrangiarsi in the Italy of today.'

0:01:22 > 0:01:24Mmmm, Antonio!

0:01:24 > 0:01:25What cheese is this?

0:01:25 > 0:01:27A natural Viagra that one.

0:01:29 > 0:01:32'We are on a journey of survival.'

0:01:32 > 0:01:35Argh! I missed it.

0:01:35 > 0:01:37I didn't....

0:01:37 > 0:01:41'But don't worry, it will be fantastic -

0:01:41 > 0:01:44'just as long as there is plenty to eat.'

0:01:44 > 0:01:45BOTH: Mmm.

0:01:56 > 0:02:01MUSIC: "O Mio Babbino Caro" by Giacomo Puccini

0:02:01 > 0:02:05'We are near the Swiss border in the Rhaetian Alps,

0:02:05 > 0:02:08'where the mountains climb to 13,000 feet

0:02:08 > 0:02:11'and they are covered in snow for most of the year.

0:02:11 > 0:02:14'Gennaro has persuaded me to see if we can

0:02:14 > 0:02:17'fend for ourselves living by our wits.

0:02:17 > 0:02:20'I think it's a terrible idea!'

0:02:20 > 0:02:22If we have to forage here...

0:02:22 > 0:02:23Yeah.

0:02:23 > 0:02:26..and find something edible, that's like grass,

0:02:26 > 0:02:31herbs and so on and mushrooms, where do you find them?

0:02:31 > 0:02:35Not at the moment. I agree with you Antonio. It is a lot of snow.

0:02:35 > 0:02:36You can make me an ice cream.

0:02:36 > 0:02:38Oh, yeah.

0:02:38 > 0:02:40This is the region of Lombardy.

0:02:40 > 0:02:42We are north of Lake Como

0:02:42 > 0:02:45in the Splugen Pass which connects Italy to Switzerland.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48'It is an unforgiving place'

0:02:48 > 0:02:52'and home to the most hardy mountain men and women of Italy.'

0:02:52 > 0:02:55Gennaro, are you sure that we can camp here?

0:02:55 > 0:02:57Yeah. Why not?

0:02:57 > 0:03:00I'm sure there's going to be a nice place.

0:03:00 > 0:03:03I'm sure we'll find something to cook.

0:03:03 > 0:03:05Well I hope so. Ooooh!

0:03:05 > 0:03:08What a wonderful lake.

0:03:08 > 0:03:11- Do you think there will be some fish inside?- Most probably.

0:03:11 > 0:03:14I would LOVE to go fishing.

0:03:14 > 0:03:18If you look with the binoculars in the high mountains,

0:03:18 > 0:03:20you can see some er, animals.

0:03:20 > 0:03:23Oh, fantastic. I will love to do some hunting.

0:03:23 > 0:03:26'We are determined to get by on what we find,

0:03:26 > 0:03:29'living the life of arrangiarsi.'

0:03:29 > 0:03:30What a view!

0:03:30 > 0:03:34'It won't be easy, but at least there's one thing

0:03:34 > 0:03:36'we know how to make the most of.'

0:03:36 > 0:03:39- It's lovely porcini. - Oh that's wonderful.

0:03:39 > 0:03:41- Yeah, I've got, got another one. - Nebularis.

0:03:41 > 0:03:45- Yeah, nebulari. Look what I find, Antonio.- Oh yes.

0:03:45 > 0:03:49- Suillus - family of porcini. - Good smell.

0:03:51 > 0:03:54My God, that smells good! I bet you I find some more.

0:03:57 > 0:03:58If you go over that...

0:03:58 > 0:04:00Maybe here.

0:04:00 > 0:04:01There! There is one.

0:04:01 > 0:04:03- Where?- There. Go there.

0:04:03 > 0:04:06- Go there, what do you mean, "Go there?"- There is a mushroom there.

0:04:06 > 0:04:08Antonio, where?

0:04:08 > 0:04:10There! To the left.

0:04:12 > 0:04:13Antonio, where on the left?

0:04:13 > 0:04:15A little bit more left.

0:04:18 > 0:04:20Antonio, there is nothing on the left.

0:04:20 > 0:04:22Well, I am sorry, I thought it was a mushroom!

0:04:22 > 0:04:23Bah-bah.

0:04:24 > 0:04:26You send me far away,

0:04:26 > 0:04:29just to remove me from you.

0:04:29 > 0:04:31That is exactly what I want, you silly boy!

0:04:31 > 0:04:34Yeah, thank you very much. You're supposed to be my friend. You know what?

0:04:36 > 0:04:40Valchiavenna is famous for its wild food.

0:04:42 > 0:04:45Mushroom picking is a national pastime.

0:04:45 > 0:04:49Last year in Italy 40,000 people were poisoned by them.

0:04:49 > 0:04:52I think Antonio can't make it up here.

0:04:52 > 0:04:54He would love to be here.

0:04:54 > 0:04:57Luckily, we are experts on mushrooms.

0:04:58 > 0:05:00Oh, yes!

0:05:01 > 0:05:03Honey fungus.

0:05:03 > 0:05:05I can really cook with those.

0:05:05 > 0:05:09They call them honey fungus because it's got sucklers in colour of honey.

0:05:09 > 0:05:12Also in Italian we call them chiodino.

0:05:12 > 0:05:17Chiodini means "little nails". You can see why. Bless them.

0:05:17 > 0:05:21'There is no need to scrabble around the mountains.

0:05:21 > 0:05:24'There's plenty to eat in the open ground.'

0:05:25 > 0:05:29You have to take the younger one that's white.

0:05:29 > 0:05:32You can see the inside is white. It's wonderful.

0:05:32 > 0:05:36This is called the shaggy ink cap,

0:05:36 > 0:05:38because it's a sort of...

0:05:38 > 0:05:40the surface is all shaggy.

0:05:40 > 0:05:43Yes! Some more.

0:05:43 > 0:05:44Ah!

0:05:45 > 0:05:47Honey fungus.

0:05:47 > 0:05:49I love mushrooms

0:05:49 > 0:05:52more than anything...almost!

0:05:52 > 0:05:55But I would like some bresaola to go with them.

0:05:55 > 0:05:59Bresaola is the air-dried beef of the region.

0:06:01 > 0:06:02Buongiorno.

0:06:02 > 0:06:05- Buongiorno.- Buongiorno. - Come va?- Non c'e male.

0:06:05 > 0:06:07You see, Gennaro, this is the place.

0:06:07 > 0:06:08Ciao.

0:06:08 > 0:06:10You can learn something.

0:06:10 > 0:06:12Stefano here is a wonderful man.

0:06:12 > 0:06:15He can do the real bresaola.

0:06:15 > 0:06:17- Can you show it to him?- Sure.

0:06:17 > 0:06:19In the old days meat was scarce

0:06:19 > 0:06:22and preserving it was a matter of survival.

0:06:22 > 0:06:26- It's very simple. What we need is salt.- OK.

0:06:26 > 0:06:28Then we need some garlic.

0:06:28 > 0:06:32- Do you want to cut the garlic? - Yeah, I cut the garlic. Yeah.

0:06:32 > 0:06:35- Just slice the garlic? - Then we need some pepper.

0:06:35 > 0:06:37- You are very fast.- I am indeed.

0:06:37 > 0:06:40You can go. Go, go, go. Yes, yes.

0:06:40 > 0:06:42Some bay leaves.

0:06:42 > 0:06:43Just like that?

0:06:43 > 0:06:47- Yeah. Gennaro, bring the salt. - How much?

0:06:47 > 0:06:50- Er, go, go. Now we have to massage...- OK.

0:06:50 > 0:06:52..like a beautiful girl.

0:06:52 > 0:06:55- I am... I am a specialist on that. - OK, OK!

0:06:55 > 0:06:58- Beautiful girls.- OK. - That is no trouble at all.

0:06:58 > 0:07:02You know, Stefano, I don't know anything where he is not specialist.

0:07:02 > 0:07:05- Perfect. We put the meat... - Inside here?

0:07:05 > 0:07:06Yeah, go, go.

0:07:06 > 0:07:08So the salt is for preserving?

0:07:08 > 0:07:11Yeah, yeah. yeah. It's the ancient way of preserving the meat.

0:07:11 > 0:07:15- But also extract water probably, as well.- Yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:07:15 > 0:07:17After a week in this box,

0:07:17 > 0:07:20the salt go inside the meat and the water come outside.

0:07:20 > 0:07:24We dry it and then we put it in a room with some smoke

0:07:24 > 0:07:26and er, fire,

0:07:26 > 0:07:28just to heat it up

0:07:28 > 0:07:31- to 24 degrees, 25 degrees... - Not very hot.

0:07:31 > 0:07:34..for a couple of days, so the meat

0:07:34 > 0:07:38lose the rest of the free water

0:07:38 > 0:07:42and then we age er, up to three, four months.

0:07:42 > 0:07:44- But look inside there. Look. - Yes, inside.

0:07:44 > 0:07:46Inside there, look how many are inside there.

0:07:46 > 0:07:48They are already aged.

0:07:48 > 0:07:51- This is a typical grotto. Grotto is a natural cave.- Yeah.

0:07:51 > 0:07:53We have about 2,000 here in this area.

0:07:53 > 0:07:55- Every family own...- Has one.

0:07:55 > 0:07:57..has one.

0:07:57 > 0:07:59- This is very, very old.- Very old?

0:07:59 > 0:08:01- This is a shoulder.- Shoulder.

0:08:01 > 0:08:03Yeah. Er, a small violin.

0:08:03 > 0:08:09# Nah, nah, nah, nah Nah, nah, nah, nah. #

0:08:10 > 0:08:13Yeah, thank you. This is a mould. It's a funghi

0:08:13 > 0:08:15- which grows on top. - Yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:08:15 > 0:08:18It's... every cave has different fungus

0:08:18 > 0:08:21and every cave gives a different er...

0:08:21 > 0:08:24- Flavour. - ..Flavour. Yeah this is 90 days.

0:08:24 > 0:08:26This is very, very old.

0:08:27 > 0:08:29This is very hard, which is very good, yeah.

0:08:29 > 0:08:33- D'you know what? I done some work for you, yes?- OK, OK.

0:08:33 > 0:08:35- Do you think I could have one of these?- Oh, sure.

0:08:35 > 0:08:38- You know, after...- Have them both. - ..try to arrangiarmi.

0:08:38 > 0:08:40- Oh sure, sure.- I know somebody in love a little bit.

0:08:40 > 0:08:42- Can I?- OK.- Thank you.- You're welcome.

0:08:42 > 0:08:44- Thank you very much.- You're welcome.

0:08:45 > 0:08:47In his grotto,

0:08:47 > 0:08:50Stefano cures more meat than he can possibly eat by himself,

0:08:50 > 0:08:53and in other caves, there's lots of cheeses

0:08:53 > 0:08:55maturing too.

0:08:55 > 0:08:58Mamma mia! Che pietanza!

0:08:58 > 0:09:01HE INHALES DEEPLY

0:09:00 > 0:09:01My God, it's so good.

0:09:01 > 0:09:05So he's combined homemade produce

0:09:05 > 0:09:07with ingredients he finds in the forest,

0:09:07 > 0:09:10and turned them into a Michelin star.

0:09:10 > 0:09:14Now that's making the most of what you have got.

0:09:16 > 0:09:19- Stefano!- Oh, buonasera. - Buonasera.- Good evening!

0:09:19 > 0:09:24- So we have a grilled porcini mushroom...- Mmm.

0:09:24 > 0:09:27..served with a pine shoot cream.

0:09:27 > 0:09:30- Mmm, interesting.- Everything wild.

0:09:30 > 0:09:35Second dish, we have mountain potato cream

0:09:35 > 0:09:38with some pumpkin and chips

0:09:38 > 0:09:41of the same potato

0:09:41 > 0:09:44- and some flowers that we picked up last summer.- Mmm hmm.

0:09:44 > 0:09:49And last is, we call it black tagliolini.

0:09:49 > 0:09:52- We don't use the squid ink.- Yeah.

0:09:52 > 0:09:56- We use the black er... blueberries. - Oh, yes.- Wow!

0:09:56 > 0:09:59We mix the flour with blueberries, nettle sauce

0:09:59 > 0:10:01and grana.

0:10:01 > 0:10:04Wild porcini. You collected wild mushrooms.

0:10:04 > 0:10:05Yeah, this summer.

0:10:05 > 0:10:08And then look what you cook. Fantastic dish he's making, Antonio.

0:10:08 > 0:10:11Er, it is incredible.

0:10:11 > 0:10:14It is really arrangiarsi. My goodness.

0:10:14 > 0:10:15I love it.

0:10:16 > 0:10:18Yum yum.

0:10:18 > 0:10:23Yeah. Stefano inherited the skill of arrangiarsi from his grandfather,

0:10:23 > 0:10:25a freedom fighter in the Second World War.

0:10:25 > 0:10:29What kind of man was your grandfather Stefano?

0:10:29 > 0:10:33Er, my grandfather was one er, captain of er, the partisans

0:10:33 > 0:10:39that er, stopped the German column in which he was hidden.

0:10:39 > 0:10:42The partisans wanted to have Mussolini and assured

0:10:42 > 0:10:49the Germans that they bring them to the border

0:10:49 > 0:10:51if they give Mussolini to the partisans.

0:10:51 > 0:10:54But he wasn't responsible for killing er...

0:10:54 > 0:10:55No! Then they bring Mussolini to...

0:10:55 > 0:10:57- To Milan.- To Milan, yes.

0:10:57 > 0:10:59So all came out from your grandfather, told you this story?

0:10:59 > 0:11:02- Yeah, yeah, yeah.- It is incredible Antonio because it is...

0:11:02 > 0:11:04There's history, there's history.

0:11:06 > 0:11:12The mountain men who defeated fascists here survived on wild food.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19Some of the most delicious salad leaves are herbs that

0:11:19 > 0:11:21look like weeds.

0:11:21 > 0:11:23Perfect for a salad fit for a partisan.

0:11:25 > 0:11:28Gennaro, I have a contribution to your salad.

0:11:28 > 0:11:30Let's have a look. What have you got?

0:11:30 > 0:11:31A wild contribution. Look at this.

0:11:31 > 0:11:33Oh, what is it?

0:11:33 > 0:11:35- A bit of dandelion.- Yeah?

0:11:35 > 0:11:37And a bit of er, wild sorrel. Little bit.

0:11:37 > 0:11:40Taste it, it's very good.

0:11:40 > 0:11:42- Mmm!- And a bit of chickweed.- Mmm.

0:11:42 > 0:11:46It's all wonderful for this...look at this. This is a natural contribution.

0:11:46 > 0:11:49You're great. You need somebody like me...

0:11:49 > 0:11:50Oh yes, naturally.

0:11:50 > 0:11:52..to make the best bresaola salad.

0:11:52 > 0:11:54OK, then start.

0:11:54 > 0:11:56OK, first things first...bread.

0:11:57 > 0:12:02What actually we'll do, we'll give a nice crispiness to the salad.

0:12:02 > 0:12:07OK, first I cut them in a small...

0:12:07 > 0:12:09- Cubes?- Crostoni di pane.- Yes.

0:12:09 > 0:12:12That's good. Nice olive oil.

0:12:12 > 0:12:14Thank you. You got it?

0:12:14 > 0:12:15Thank you.

0:12:17 > 0:12:21Here I've got this nice, little bit of wild rocket

0:12:21 > 0:12:26but you can use any nice crispy salads which is good.

0:12:26 > 0:12:28- The sorrel is beautiful. - Don't forget the sorrel. This one.

0:12:28 > 0:12:32Yeah, yeah. I have these fantastic radishes.

0:12:32 > 0:12:37- The radishes give it the lovely, little bit of pungence.- Yes.

0:12:37 > 0:12:40You cut it. Just roughly cut.

0:12:42 > 0:12:44Here. Yeah, in quarter's is fine.

0:12:44 > 0:12:50Look at that. Then it goes in. The lovely colour.

0:12:50 > 0:12:53- Eggs. - Let's see... It's too soft.

0:12:53 > 0:12:57It's not too soft! Er, you quarter it or half it.

0:12:57 > 0:12:59Oh yes, yes.

0:12:59 > 0:13:02- Lumps goes on top.- So, and now?

0:13:02 > 0:13:03- The parmesan cheese.- Yes?

0:13:03 > 0:13:06But then shave it. Shave it.

0:13:07 > 0:13:11Oh, it's not finished yet. Get some nice olives.

0:13:11 > 0:13:14Look at these olives. Fantastic.

0:13:14 > 0:13:15It's good.

0:13:15 > 0:13:19And for the dressing, you need fresh garlic and good olive oil.

0:13:19 > 0:13:25Three tablespoons of olive oil,

0:13:25 > 0:13:29and one tablespoon, a nice white wine vinegar.

0:13:29 > 0:13:31If you don't have white wine, use red wine.

0:13:31 > 0:13:34It works as well. Then, little bit of salt.

0:13:39 > 0:13:41Well done.

0:13:41 > 0:13:43Oh, yes.

0:13:43 > 0:13:45It works. Gennaro, it works. Look at this.

0:13:45 > 0:13:47It works, of course it's working.

0:13:47 > 0:13:49- OK.- The croutons, they are ready already.

0:13:49 > 0:13:53- And this is the bresaola. - Fantastic.

0:13:53 > 0:13:55- Gonna put this two, two little slices.- Yes, good.

0:13:55 > 0:13:58- Abundant.- Abundant.

0:13:58 > 0:14:01Now on top. Put it all in, Gennaro.

0:14:01 > 0:14:04No, now listen, let me just make you something nice for you!

0:14:04 > 0:14:06Mamma mia, you never give me a chance.

0:14:06 > 0:14:08I'm gonna make it look pretty.

0:14:08 > 0:14:09Gennaro, I'm hungry.

0:14:11 > 0:14:13Give me the croutons.

0:14:13 > 0:14:15Oh yes, yes, yes. I love the croutons.

0:14:15 > 0:14:18- Oh yes, yes. - Ah! Something crispy and nice.

0:14:18 > 0:14:25Going to put just a little extra one of parmesan on top.

0:14:25 > 0:14:27Let me see, come on. Come on.

0:14:28 > 0:14:31Mmmm. Mmmm.

0:14:31 > 0:14:33Mmm-Mmm!

0:14:33 > 0:14:38Gennaro, I must admit, for a change, that's very good.

0:14:49 > 0:14:55We are entering the Valtellina, an Alpine Shangri-La of wine and food.

0:14:55 > 0:14:58The red wines here are superb.

0:14:58 > 0:15:02But the wines only thrive on the sunny south-facing slopes.

0:15:02 > 0:15:06This area here reminds me so much of my home, where I grew up,

0:15:06 > 0:15:08in the Aosta Valley.

0:15:08 > 0:15:09It's all like this,

0:15:09 > 0:15:13including the little villages in the bottom of the valley.

0:15:15 > 0:15:17Every fertile inch is exploited by the locals.

0:15:19 > 0:15:21There they were, some grapes there.

0:15:21 > 0:15:24- Whey!- Stop. Stop.- Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.- That's wonderful.

0:15:24 > 0:15:26I stop, I stop, I stop. I stop, I stop.

0:15:26 > 0:15:28And here is water as well, look at this.

0:15:28 > 0:15:31- Yes.- Make it quick.- Yeah.

0:15:36 > 0:15:42This grape will be turned into wine, costing £40 a bottle.

0:15:42 > 0:15:45But right now we are starving.

0:15:56 > 0:15:59Oh, that's wonderful. But it's full of sulphur.

0:15:59 > 0:16:00Yes, it's all right.

0:16:00 > 0:16:03I know it's all right, you can eat it like this, I have to wash it!

0:16:03 > 0:16:06- There's some water, why you don't wash it with water.- Where?

0:16:06 > 0:16:07- Here, there, see it?- Oh!

0:16:07 > 0:16:10You should turn the thing, a jet of water.

0:16:10 > 0:16:12Jesus! Antonio, why?

0:16:12 > 0:16:15- I try. - HE LAUGHS

0:16:15 > 0:16:16Uh-oh... Oh!

0:16:19 > 0:16:21Gennaro, you are wonderful.

0:16:21 > 0:16:24Only Gennaro can do things like this.

0:16:29 > 0:16:32ANTONIO LAUGHS

0:16:35 > 0:16:37Look, my trousers!

0:16:37 > 0:16:39- Yes, I know. - No, no, no. You look!

0:16:39 > 0:16:41- My trousers! - Well, maybe because you're silly.

0:16:41 > 0:16:43Yeah, I know, thank you. That's for you.

0:16:43 > 0:16:45- Mmmm.- Arrangiarsi.

0:16:45 > 0:16:47- It's sweet. - Yeah, I want to go from here.

0:16:50 > 0:16:52It's so sweet, it's wonderful.

0:16:57 > 0:17:01'The valley floor was once a lush mountain pasture.

0:17:01 > 0:17:04'Now it's a hive of commercial activity.'

0:17:04 > 0:17:05Gennaro, look at this.

0:17:05 > 0:17:07My goodness, one little factory after the other.

0:17:07 > 0:17:11And mostly all doing bresaola.

0:17:12 > 0:17:16Do you know that 90% of the bresaola consumed in the world

0:17:16 > 0:17:17comes from here?

0:17:17 > 0:17:20'In the Valtellina they are still preserving beef

0:17:20 > 0:17:22'but these days not to survive the winter,

0:17:22 > 0:17:26'but to sell as an expensive delicacy all year round.'

0:17:26 > 0:17:30- Ciao, molto piacere.- Come stai? - Benissimo.

0:17:30 > 0:17:33- Guarda, c'e anche Antonio. - Ah, Antonio.

0:17:33 > 0:17:35Bresaola-making here is big business.

0:17:36 > 0:17:38Wow! Look at this.

0:17:38 > 0:17:44If we are gonna get some of this, we have to work very hard.

0:17:52 > 0:17:56For the bresaola you have to clean the fat, take off the fat.

0:17:56 > 0:17:58That's interesting.

0:18:01 > 0:18:03- Can I borrow your knife, please? - Er, no, no, no.

0:18:03 > 0:18:06Your, your knife is much better.

0:18:06 > 0:18:08Gennaro, I feel for the middle age.

0:18:08 > 0:18:09Yeah, you do look...

0:18:36 > 0:18:41Thousands of tons of beef are flown in from the other side of the world.

0:18:41 > 0:18:44It's modern Italian arrangiarsi.

0:18:45 > 0:18:50I prefer my food local but er, we beggars can't be choosers.

0:18:58 > 0:19:00OK, let's do another one because this is, was broke.

0:19:00 > 0:19:02Come on. Come on.

0:19:02 > 0:19:03There's lots of rejects.

0:19:03 > 0:19:08The boss wanted 250 of these in the next hour!

0:19:10 > 0:19:16At £40 per kilo, that is £10,000 worth.

0:19:25 > 0:19:27Oh, grazie.

0:19:32 > 0:19:33- Grazie.- Arrivederci.

0:19:33 > 0:19:34Arrivederci. Grazie.

0:19:34 > 0:19:37- Arrivederci. Grazie.- Ciao, ciao.

0:19:40 > 0:19:44- Gennaro would you like to taste a little bit of your reward? - Mmm. I love it.

0:19:44 > 0:19:46You really like it, eh?

0:19:48 > 0:19:50Let me see, let me cut a little bit more.

0:19:50 > 0:19:53'At least an honest days' work tastes good.'

0:19:56 > 0:20:01'We are heading for Sondrio at the top of the valley to see Nella,

0:20:01 > 0:20:03'a friend of ours.'

0:20:05 > 0:20:07- Come stai, Nella?- Bene, bene.

0:20:07 > 0:20:10Arrangiarsi has always been a way of life here,

0:20:10 > 0:20:13but there was a time when it was a matter of life and death.

0:20:13 > 0:20:15Buongiorno!

0:20:15 > 0:20:17Buongiorno.

0:20:17 > 0:20:21We have come to meet two war veterans who put our efforts at survival into perspective.

0:20:26 > 0:20:29Unbelievable. Real partisan. Buongiorno.

0:20:29 > 0:20:31- Allora, Lei Irma ha novant'anni, Lei?- Si.

0:20:31 > 0:20:33Caspita!

0:20:33 > 0:20:35- Ed e stata partigiana?- Partigiana.

0:20:35 > 0:20:36Come mio marito.

0:20:36 > 0:20:40Irma is 90 years old and she was partisan, a real partisan.

0:21:04 > 0:21:05Very hard.

0:21:36 > 0:21:38How do you survive?

0:21:38 > 0:21:40Come ha fatto sopravvivere?

0:22:13 > 0:22:18'During the war, around 45,000 Italian partisans

0:22:18 > 0:22:20'were killed, by the fascists.

0:22:20 > 0:22:24'It's a high price to pay for our freedom today.'

0:22:26 > 0:22:29- Ai partiginai!- Ai partigiani!

0:22:29 > 0:22:32To the partisans all over the world.

0:22:32 > 0:22:33Salute!

0:22:33 > 0:22:36ALL TOAST EACH OTHER

0:22:36 > 0:22:41ALL SING: # Questa mattina mi son svegliata

0:22:41 > 0:22:45# O bella ciao, ciao, ciao... #

0:22:45 > 0:22:48LAUGHTER

0:22:48 > 0:22:50Peasant!

0:22:57 > 0:23:00Life during wartime was hard for everybody,

0:23:00 > 0:23:04yet those mountain people got by on few ingredients

0:23:04 > 0:23:08and still produced a dish that is world famous today.

0:23:15 > 0:23:18So, do you know what I am going to cook, Gennaro?

0:23:18 > 0:23:20- Yes.- Pizzoccheri.

0:23:20 > 0:23:22It's the only valley where they do this

0:23:22 > 0:23:28and this is because they couldn't grow wheat,

0:23:28 > 0:23:30but they could grow buckwheat.

0:23:30 > 0:23:33The buckwheat pasta is this one here

0:23:33 > 0:23:35and it's a sort of form of Tagliatelle.

0:23:35 > 0:23:37- Is any egg inside? - No, no egg.

0:23:37 > 0:23:40No egg. So just water, that's good.

0:23:40 > 0:23:43For the local grown Swiss chard.

0:23:43 > 0:23:45- I love cabbage.- And potatoes.

0:23:45 > 0:23:47All right.

0:23:47 > 0:23:49- You can cut it in small cubes.- OK.

0:23:49 > 0:23:51I show you how to do this.

0:23:51 > 0:23:57We put away the stalk and take away just the greens,

0:23:57 > 0:23:59which is from the family of the spinach, you know that?

0:23:59 > 0:24:01Mmm. Yeah, I knew that.

0:24:01 > 0:24:05The beauty of this is that we cook everything together.

0:24:05 > 0:24:11A bit of salt in the water, then we put the Swiss chard.

0:24:11 > 0:24:13- Yeah. Cabbage?- Yes.

0:24:15 > 0:24:16Tell me when.

0:24:16 > 0:24:18So, we put now this as well.

0:24:18 > 0:24:20Yeah, one more leaves.

0:24:20 > 0:24:23- And the potatoes as well, Gennaro.- Yeah.

0:24:23 > 0:24:26And everything together. This is a fantastic dish.

0:24:26 > 0:24:29You don't need to work a lot.

0:24:29 > 0:24:35And now the cavolo nero which is black cabbage, so it's fantastic.

0:24:35 > 0:24:39Thank you. And we put the pasta to cook together with that.

0:24:39 > 0:24:44Then you just boil the ingredients together for 40 minutes.

0:24:44 > 0:24:50Gennaro, now you can cut me the cheese - toma - which is fantastic.

0:24:50 > 0:24:54It has an aroma that is really... oh, this is a good old toma.

0:24:54 > 0:24:57D'you know what it remind me, this?

0:24:57 > 0:25:01Fresh hay just been harvest and put away in the stable.

0:25:01 > 0:25:03You are poetical.

0:25:03 > 0:25:06Well, this is actually what the smell... this lovely country.

0:25:06 > 0:25:10Now, let's see. Yes, it comes all together. Lovely.

0:25:10 > 0:25:13Let's see, potatoes, yeah, they seem to be cooked.

0:25:13 > 0:25:14Taste.

0:25:16 > 0:25:18Tell me if it's all right.

0:25:18 > 0:25:19Perfect.

0:25:19 > 0:25:20Cos we need to bake.

0:25:20 > 0:25:23Yes, I know, but before baking, needs to be cooked.

0:25:23 > 0:25:26- This is just right.- Is it cooked? - It's al dente.- Ah!

0:25:26 > 0:25:28Don't interfere.

0:25:28 > 0:25:29No, I don't interfere.

0:25:33 > 0:25:37Now we put everything cooked all together here.

0:25:37 > 0:25:39- What a lovely colour. - It's wonderful.

0:25:39 > 0:25:41The smell is very good.

0:25:41 > 0:25:43- Can you cut me this garlic in slices?- OK.

0:25:43 > 0:25:45Give me the butter, that I can...

0:25:45 > 0:25:46How much?

0:25:46 > 0:25:48Half of that, yes.

0:25:48 > 0:25:52This is alpine butter, it's very good.

0:25:52 > 0:25:54What shall I do with the garlic?

0:25:54 > 0:25:55It comes here.

0:25:55 > 0:25:57- There it goes.- Yes.

0:26:00 > 0:26:02Gennaro, look at this, what happens now.

0:26:04 > 0:26:07Now 300 grams of cheese, put it in.

0:26:07 > 0:26:09Yes.

0:26:11 > 0:26:12Mmmm.

0:26:14 > 0:26:17Firstly, you can pass me the parmesan.

0:26:20 > 0:26:25Another layer. It's so simple.

0:26:25 > 0:26:28OK.

0:26:28 > 0:26:30- Happy?- Yeah.- Good.

0:26:30 > 0:26:32- I'm happy.- More parmesan.

0:26:32 > 0:26:34Yeah.

0:26:34 > 0:26:36Now, Gennaro, you can put it in the oven.

0:26:36 > 0:26:38Thank you very much.

0:26:38 > 0:26:40What a great job you give me to do.

0:26:41 > 0:26:45MUSIC: "O Mio Babbino Caro" by Giacomo Puccini

0:26:45 > 0:26:49Now, leave it in the oven for 20 minutes.

0:26:51 > 0:26:54Argh! Antonio.

0:26:54 > 0:26:55- Gennaro.- Ergh!

0:26:55 > 0:26:58This is exciting. Wow!

0:26:58 > 0:27:01Look at that. That's a fantastic thing.

0:27:01 > 0:27:04Look at the cheese, it just melts.

0:27:04 > 0:27:07Oh...WOW!

0:27:08 > 0:27:10Wonderful.

0:27:13 > 0:27:20The combination of cabbage and potatoes and cheese is mind-blowing.

0:27:20 > 0:27:22- Oh!- Simply is delicious.

0:27:24 > 0:27:27Wonderful.

0:27:27 > 0:27:31Not bad wine for arrangiarsi, you know, it's good.

0:27:31 > 0:27:34Did you arrangiarsi it? Did you borrow it?

0:27:35 > 0:27:36Er, yes, I did.

0:27:45 > 0:27:47What a view!

0:27:47 > 0:27:48That's wonderful.

0:27:50 > 0:27:52We need a place to stay tonight.

0:27:52 > 0:27:55We can bunk up in the camper van.

0:27:59 > 0:28:04'When I was a boy, making do like this was not a matter of choice.'

0:28:04 > 0:28:08We were very hungry and after the war, there wasn't very much to eat.

0:28:08 > 0:28:13We were, as children, just happy to go into the fields

0:28:13 > 0:28:14and borrow things.

0:28:14 > 0:28:18Somebody was stealing a cabbage from a field.

0:28:18 > 0:28:21Somebody was bringing a bowl.

0:28:21 > 0:28:23Somebody else was bringing a bit of bread.

0:28:23 > 0:28:26Vinegar and oil and a bit of salt.

0:28:26 > 0:28:30Somebody perhaps could have some anchovies in it,

0:28:30 > 0:28:34and fresh bread, cutting the cabbage very, very thin

0:28:34 > 0:28:38and you can imagine to make your tea with that.

0:28:38 > 0:28:42That was for us, just fantastic food, caviar.

0:28:42 > 0:28:45That was really arrangiarsi.

0:28:45 > 0:28:48Gennaro!

0:28:48 > 0:28:49You found mushrooms.

0:28:49 > 0:28:51Look what I find, is that?

0:28:51 > 0:28:54Wonderful. This is the nebularis.

0:28:54 > 0:28:56Oh! This is very good.

0:28:56 > 0:28:59- Blewit.- They're wood blewit. They're fantastic.

0:28:59 > 0:29:00Look at the colour.

0:29:00 > 0:29:02Ah! The smell.

0:29:05 > 0:29:09- Mmm.- Is it good?

0:29:09 > 0:29:11Better than any toast at home.

0:29:11 > 0:29:15Get the smell of the wonderful pine here. You like it?

0:29:15 > 0:29:18Mmmm.

0:29:18 > 0:29:20Antonio says he likes to live off the land.

0:29:20 > 0:29:22Good night.

0:29:22 > 0:29:26But I think he just likes to live off me.

0:29:30 > 0:29:34HE HOWLS

0:29:34 > 0:29:38SOMETHING HOWLS IN THE DISTANCE

0:29:38 > 0:29:40What is that?

0:29:41 > 0:29:43Antonio, I come inside with you.

0:29:45 > 0:29:46No, Gennaro.

0:29:48 > 0:29:50COW BELLS RING

0:29:50 > 0:29:53A beautiful morning in the Valtellina.

0:29:53 > 0:29:54Ah, look, breakfast.

0:29:54 > 0:30:01HE SINGS: # The hills are alive with the sound of music.

0:30:01 > 0:30:04# The cows going to give me lots of milk! #

0:30:04 > 0:30:06Gennaro, you look like Maria.

0:30:06 > 0:30:08- Yeah. OK.- Perfectly.

0:30:08 > 0:30:09I just was going to make you happy.

0:30:09 > 0:30:12Yeah and you do. I mean I'm laughing. I am very happy.

0:30:12 > 0:30:15Yeah. Which one is for, which one of you going to give me nice milk?

0:30:15 > 0:30:17You going to give me some milk? No, you can't.

0:30:17 > 0:30:18No, she can't.

0:30:18 > 0:30:21Well, can you tell your friends to give me some milk?

0:30:21 > 0:30:22Can you? Can we do that?

0:30:22 > 0:30:25Can I help you?

0:30:25 > 0:30:26You know what?

0:30:30 > 0:30:33- Si.- Antonio... - Are you trading again?

0:30:33 > 0:30:34- Did you hear what he said?- Yes.

0:30:34 > 0:30:35- First you work.- Yes.

0:30:35 > 0:30:37- Then you get the milk.- Yeah, obvious.

0:30:37 > 0:30:40- Esatto.- I will do. I'm ready. - What do you think - we have it for nothing?

0:30:40 > 0:30:41I'm ready.

0:30:41 > 0:30:43We have come to the right place.

0:30:43 > 0:30:48Brothers Luca and Giuliano produce their own fresh milk,

0:30:48 > 0:30:49cheese and butter.

0:30:50 > 0:30:52This is heavy.

0:30:52 > 0:30:54What is that, Gennaro?

0:30:54 > 0:30:57- It is all the top off of the milk. - Yes.

0:30:57 > 0:31:01The cream, which now I will put it inside here.

0:31:01 > 0:31:02Piano, che preziosa, eh.

0:31:04 > 0:31:05Wonderful.

0:31:05 > 0:31:07Si, si.

0:31:07 > 0:31:10In the old days, they would churn the cream

0:31:10 > 0:31:12for hours by hand.

0:31:12 > 0:31:14These days it takes 20 minutes.

0:31:14 > 0:31:17For the butter, you have

0:31:17 > 0:31:20- the liquid part called the latticello.- Yeah.

0:31:20 > 0:31:23What do you do with the latticello?

0:31:23 > 0:31:27Normally we use latticello to have ricotta.

0:31:27 > 0:31:29- Lovely.- The ricotta, which is the word Antonio,

0:31:29 > 0:31:32- re-cooked the milk.- Cooked again.

0:31:32 > 0:31:34Cooked again, yeah that's good.

0:31:36 > 0:31:37I'm very excited, Gennaro.

0:31:37 > 0:31:40- Yes!- Also I am very hungry.

0:31:42 > 0:31:44Esatto, bravo.

0:31:44 > 0:31:46This is good work.

0:31:46 > 0:31:48You are very clever.

0:31:49 > 0:31:50Your majesty!

0:31:50 > 0:31:53So let's see. I want to just put a finger in it.

0:31:53 > 0:31:54Hey!

0:31:54 > 0:31:56That's wonderful.

0:31:56 > 0:32:00OK, I don't think there is any more. Look.

0:32:00 > 0:32:02But if there is little bits...

0:32:02 > 0:32:04The freshest butter ever.

0:32:04 > 0:32:06Yeah, I'm on it.

0:32:07 > 0:32:08Yes.

0:32:09 > 0:32:11Very slowly.

0:32:11 > 0:32:15- OK.- Wonderful, Gennaro.

0:32:15 > 0:32:17Oh, that's perfect.

0:32:17 > 0:32:21- APPLAUSE - Well done!- Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.

0:32:21 > 0:32:24- Gennaro, now we can have breakfast.- OK.

0:32:24 > 0:32:27'An alpine breakfast wouldn't be complete

0:32:27 > 0:32:29'without a little fruit.'

0:32:29 > 0:32:30- Oh, Gennaro.- Yeah?

0:32:30 > 0:32:33COW BELLS RING

0:32:33 > 0:32:35- Apples.- Arrangiarti, Gennaro.

0:32:35 > 0:32:38Yeah, be careful that the owner doesn't come.

0:32:40 > 0:32:44- Why don't you come down and collect some?- No, I prefer to do it from here, Gennaro.

0:32:47 > 0:32:48- Some apple, Antonio?- Yeah.

0:32:48 > 0:32:50Look at it!

0:32:54 > 0:32:56With the milk as well I got for you.

0:32:56 > 0:32:59Mmm. Shall I tell you one thing? I never had a better breakfast.

0:33:01 > 0:33:05- To Luca and Giuliano. - Oh, yeah.- Well done.

0:33:06 > 0:33:09- Mmmmm.- That's fantastic.

0:33:12 > 0:33:13Mmm!

0:33:14 > 0:33:16Up here the food is simple

0:33:16 > 0:33:18and life is uncomplicated.

0:33:18 > 0:33:21This is my sort of arrangiarsi.

0:33:28 > 0:33:31'It's too high in the Alps to grow wheat or corn.'

0:33:31 > 0:33:35Gennaro, it is too steep for me here.

0:33:35 > 0:33:38'So, since the Middle Ages, the locals got by

0:33:38 > 0:33:41'on flour milled from chestnuts.'

0:33:41 > 0:33:43I'll find it.

0:33:48 > 0:33:50- Yes?- They are very good.

0:33:50 > 0:33:51Fantastic.

0:33:51 > 0:33:54You know what? I'm going to make some gnocchi for you.

0:33:54 > 0:33:56We need the eggs.

0:33:56 > 0:33:58Don't worry. We find the eggs.

0:33:58 > 0:34:00Where do you want me to find the eggs?

0:34:00 > 0:34:02Look on the tree if I can find a nest?

0:34:07 > 0:34:09GOAT BLEATS

0:34:09 > 0:34:10GENNARO BLEATS IN REPLY

0:34:22 > 0:34:25Antonio wants something to eat. Yeah!

0:34:26 > 0:34:28For the gnocchi, I borrowed a goose egg.

0:34:28 > 0:34:30Now I just need some flour.

0:34:32 > 0:34:35There used to be hundreds of water mill in this valley.

0:34:35 > 0:34:37WHEELS GRIND

0:34:37 > 0:34:39'This is one of the few left

0:34:39 > 0:34:42'that's still milling chestnuts.'

0:34:47 > 0:34:48Can I help you?

0:34:50 > 0:34:51To make the chestnut flour,

0:34:51 > 0:34:54first you have got to break off the shells.

0:35:03 > 0:35:05This water mill may look simple,

0:35:05 > 0:35:09but the technology was devised by a genius -

0:35:09 > 0:35:11Leonardo Da Vinci.

0:35:12 > 0:35:14OK?

0:35:15 > 0:35:17I got a few chestnuts, I have to do so much work.

0:35:18 > 0:35:21'Now I'm going to shake off the husk,

0:35:21 > 0:35:23'just leaving the chestnuts.'

0:35:36 > 0:35:38- Grazie.- Prego.

0:35:39 > 0:35:41- Gennaro.- What? - What took you so long?

0:35:41 > 0:35:45'Now, Gennaro must ask the local miller to crush his nuts.'

0:35:45 > 0:35:49- Finally, finally we have the chestnuts, Gennaro.- Thank you.

0:35:49 > 0:35:51Have you seen this machine here?

0:35:51 > 0:35:53No, never saw this machine, Antonio.

0:35:53 > 0:35:55The chestnuts are coming there.

0:35:57 > 0:36:00They are coming out from here. This is a 200-year-old mill.

0:36:00 > 0:36:04Can you imagine in the old days, this is what they used to do

0:36:04 > 0:36:07- all the time.- In the old days, because the only thing

0:36:07 > 0:36:09that fantastic flour to make bread,

0:36:09 > 0:36:12to make pasta, to make all sorts of things.

0:36:12 > 0:36:16How many families these chestnuts feeded, and it's incredible.

0:36:16 > 0:36:18Pasta was based on these chestnuts.

0:36:18 > 0:36:21Well, it's marvellous to see something like that. Just love it.

0:36:21 > 0:36:23This chestnut flour is rich,

0:36:23 > 0:36:25sweet and full of flavour.

0:36:25 > 0:36:28Antonio, look.

0:36:28 > 0:36:31That's lovely flour. This is the real flour, yes.

0:36:50 > 0:36:51- Arrivederci. Grazie.- Ciao.

0:36:51 > 0:36:54- Not bad. Not bad. - Not bad? I've done well, I think.

0:36:54 > 0:36:57Antonio done very well. Be careful, the steps, yeah?

0:36:57 > 0:36:58I know you.

0:36:58 > 0:37:00Not bad.

0:37:02 > 0:37:04Another night with Antonio

0:37:04 > 0:37:06and I've got everything I need

0:37:06 > 0:37:09to make lovely gnocchi with chestnut flour.

0:37:09 > 0:37:11Let me show you what I'm doing.

0:37:11 > 0:37:14I'm going to have this potato which I'm just boiling now,

0:37:14 > 0:37:16and here we go.

0:37:16 > 0:37:18Squash them right through. Argh!

0:37:18 > 0:37:22- Oh, I love the spaghetti coming out there.- Ah yeah, it's not finished.

0:37:22 > 0:37:25I know you - don't eat all the potato!

0:37:25 > 0:37:26I can't taste the potato?

0:37:26 > 0:37:30Can I have er, the chestnut flour is right behind you?

0:37:31 > 0:37:33- Just put it inside and let me mix.- Yeah, now.

0:37:33 > 0:37:36You see it mills nicely.

0:37:36 > 0:37:37Yes.

0:37:38 > 0:37:41- Just a little bit, not too much. OK?- Yeah.

0:37:41 > 0:37:45And, can I have that ordinary flour, Antonio,

0:37:45 > 0:37:47because chestnut flour is nice,

0:37:47 > 0:37:50but you need a bit of body with ordinary flour.

0:37:50 > 0:37:52This is double zero.

0:37:52 > 0:37:54Just a little touch, yeah.

0:37:54 > 0:37:55A little touch, yeah.

0:37:55 > 0:37:58- A little touch. When it's done like that...- Yeah.

0:37:58 > 0:38:02The egg is too, far too big.

0:38:02 > 0:38:04You use only the...

0:38:04 > 0:38:05I use just the yellow one.

0:38:05 > 0:38:08Look, my goodness. What kind of an egg is that?

0:38:08 > 0:38:10Ostrich?

0:38:10 > 0:38:12- It is a goose egg.- Goose egg.

0:38:12 > 0:38:14Just use half.

0:38:14 > 0:38:16- Yes.- I mix it.

0:38:16 > 0:38:18I mix it well.

0:38:18 > 0:38:20- Just a little bit more. - A little bit more.

0:38:20 > 0:38:21Enough.

0:38:21 > 0:38:23That's it. That is good.

0:38:23 > 0:38:25Now you mix it.

0:38:25 > 0:38:27- Oh, yeah.- Oh, yeah.

0:38:27 > 0:38:29And I've got some dry mushrooms.

0:38:29 > 0:38:31SIZZLING

0:38:31 > 0:38:32- Oh yeah!- Wonderful.

0:38:32 > 0:38:36'For the sauce, I sopped porcini in the water,

0:38:36 > 0:38:39'sweated garlic and added tomato.'

0:38:39 > 0:38:42Oh, it's wonderful. All day I'm waiting for something to eat.

0:38:42 > 0:38:45OK, OK. You complained all day.

0:38:46 > 0:38:50- The sauce is burning.- Oh, don't worry. The sauce is not burning.

0:38:50 > 0:38:53I am cooking. I am in charge. You eat it!

0:38:53 > 0:38:56OK? And look what I'm doing. All this for you.

0:38:56 > 0:38:58Now it's ready.

0:38:58 > 0:38:59The water is boiling.

0:39:03 > 0:39:05Bless it. Bless those gnocchi,

0:39:05 > 0:39:06they're all coming up.

0:39:06 > 0:39:10- Why do you bless all the time? - Because I do bless them, because I like it.

0:39:10 > 0:39:13'Cook the gnocchi for a couple of minutes,

0:39:13 > 0:39:17'mix with the sauce and hallelujah.'

0:39:17 > 0:39:18Can I have a fork for me?

0:39:18 > 0:39:20It's there.

0:39:20 > 0:39:22- Thank you very much, Antonio. - I have only one.

0:39:22 > 0:39:24And now look at me, no, just look at me.

0:39:32 > 0:39:34Actually the gnocchi, I must admit,

0:39:34 > 0:39:37Gennaro it's er, incredible.

0:39:37 > 0:39:39But I can taste the chestnuts.

0:39:39 > 0:39:42Here they are fantastic, but I would add

0:39:42 > 0:39:44just a little bit more salt.

0:39:44 > 0:39:46So what I'm doing, look.

0:39:46 > 0:39:47Arrangiarsi!

0:39:50 > 0:39:51Ah!

0:39:51 > 0:39:53Finally!

0:39:55 > 0:39:56That's fantastic now.

0:39:56 > 0:39:59- Shall I say...?- I help you.

0:39:59 > 0:40:03BOTH: I am good at cooking!

0:40:03 > 0:40:05Yes!

0:40:05 > 0:40:07The chestnut is good. Let's finish off.

0:40:08 > 0:40:09- Antonio.- Yeah?

0:40:09 > 0:40:13- Do you know we're going to sleep here tonight? Did you see the weather? - No. No way.

0:40:13 > 0:40:15What do you mean?

0:40:15 > 0:40:18'I mean I've got a better idea.

0:40:18 > 0:40:21'There was a little B&B back there.'

0:40:26 > 0:40:29Oh, Antonio! Sugar!

0:40:31 > 0:40:34This is really my kind of arrangiarsi.

0:40:34 > 0:40:36I should think so. This is a castle.

0:40:36 > 0:40:38Leave the bloody camper there.

0:40:38 > 0:40:40I can't understand how people they can live in a camper

0:40:40 > 0:40:42when you have something like this.

0:40:42 > 0:40:44- Do you know what Antonio? I agree with you.- There is a room.

0:40:44 > 0:40:48- Come on. Let's go. - Sleep well

0:40:48 > 0:40:52- Think about (INAUDIBLE). - Yes, you too. Thank you.- OK.

0:40:53 > 0:40:56- Kiss, kiss.- No. no.

0:40:57 > 0:41:00Ah! Wonderful.

0:41:10 > 0:41:13Ah! Arrangiarsi. No, I'm sorry. Not to night.

0:41:15 > 0:41:16Oh, bless Antonio.

0:41:25 > 0:41:27Another day in the Alps

0:41:27 > 0:41:33and Gennaro says we have got to sing for our supper, or rather breakfast.

0:41:33 > 0:41:35There's food, food. I can see food on the table.

0:41:47 > 0:41:50We have been invited to join a hunting party.

0:41:50 > 0:41:53It would be rude not to try the food.

0:41:56 > 0:41:58Tartufo! Truffles.

0:41:58 > 0:42:01It is truffles inside here.

0:42:01 > 0:42:03In mascarpone.

0:42:03 > 0:42:05In the mascarpone. It's incredible.

0:42:05 > 0:42:07It's got such a lovely, intense flavour, Antonio.

0:42:07 > 0:42:10- They are local truffles, yes. - Yeah, well this is what they are.

0:42:12 > 0:42:15- Cheeses, that one. - We are here next to Switzerland

0:42:15 > 0:42:18and here at the border

0:42:18 > 0:42:20they do quite a lot of wonderful cheeses.

0:42:20 > 0:42:23- Antonio, what cheese, it's so sweet? - This is formagella.

0:42:23 > 0:42:24Formagella. What, what kind of cheese?

0:42:24 > 0:42:28It's a sort of soft and nice and a mild cheese. Let me taste it, then I tell you.

0:42:28 > 0:42:31Yeah, all right, yeah. What about the other one?

0:42:31 > 0:42:35Then we have the casera which is local here. Very old aged casera.

0:42:35 > 0:42:39- Oh, this cheese... - This cheese is wonderful. - It is incredible.- Gracious me.

0:42:39 > 0:42:42I don't have to go round and collect the wild food for you.

0:42:42 > 0:42:43They're all here, now.

0:42:47 > 0:42:51- Which cheese is this? - Taste that one. A wonderful cheese.

0:42:51 > 0:42:53Il burro e anche locale.

0:42:54 > 0:42:59Mmmm! Antonio! What cheese is this?

0:42:59 > 0:43:00- Viagra naturale. - LAUGHTER

0:43:00 > 0:43:06Gennaro, he tells me that's a natural Viagra, that one.

0:43:06 > 0:43:09LAUGHTER

0:43:09 > 0:43:12- I know that you need it. - I think you need it more, yeah.

0:43:12 > 0:43:17'In the old days, these hunters would live off the land to support their family,

0:43:17 > 0:43:20'but now they do it for pleasure.'

0:43:20 > 0:43:24The only wish now that you can have here is to have a good hunt.

0:43:24 > 0:43:27- Salute.- Salute. In bocca al lupo, eh?- Crepi!

0:43:31 > 0:43:35I wanted to know if I can still hunt for food.

0:43:35 > 0:43:37- Di sotto.- Dove?

0:43:41 > 0:43:42Dov'e?

0:43:48 > 0:43:51Niente...I can't find anything.

0:43:51 > 0:43:55'As Gennaro has a gun in his hand, I am sitting tight with Marco.'

0:43:56 > 0:44:01Marco, is a figure here that's very popular.

0:44:01 > 0:44:05And he's the most wonderful poacher of the area.

0:44:10 > 0:44:14Around 40 years ago, they started to come here

0:44:14 > 0:44:18because they wanted to be in a paradise of hunters.

0:44:18 > 0:44:22So for 40 years they are coming here to poach, to shoot.

0:44:22 > 0:44:28In my opinion, they're coming here just to escape their wives in this wonderful...

0:44:28 > 0:44:32When I was growing up in the South of Italy, my father taught me how to hunt.

0:44:37 > 0:44:40The dog's on a pheasant. Pheasant.

0:44:44 > 0:44:48I missed it! I missed the pheasant.

0:44:49 > 0:44:52Luckily, another hunter is not as rusty as I am.

0:44:56 > 0:45:00This reminds me, when I used to be a little boy with my father,

0:45:00 > 0:45:02when we used to go hunting.

0:45:02 > 0:45:04Bless him.

0:45:05 > 0:45:09We used to hunt not just for the satisfaction,

0:45:09 > 0:45:11but also that was food for us.

0:45:11 > 0:45:14My father never shot what was more than just enough,

0:45:14 > 0:45:16and we had to share with other friends.

0:45:16 > 0:45:20Sometimes they like to say, "You take it. You've got a big family."

0:45:20 > 0:45:24Used to bring it home. My mother used to clean, cook it.

0:45:24 > 0:45:29Perhaps by the evening. Oh, my God, what a memory!

0:45:29 > 0:45:34I'm going to earn a free lunch cooking for the hunters. Easy.

0:45:34 > 0:45:40Food you have grown, caught or shot yourself always tastes the best.

0:45:40 > 0:45:43I put the pheasant, which we shot at it, I cut it in pieces

0:45:43 > 0:45:46then I put some salt.

0:45:46 > 0:45:50Then I will put some pepper.

0:45:52 > 0:45:54You know, just mix everything.

0:45:54 > 0:45:56Then I will put some flour.

0:45:56 > 0:46:01The reason I would put flour inside because, just a little bit,

0:46:01 > 0:46:05because I wanted it to create

0:46:05 > 0:46:08that kind of a crust on the pheasant.

0:46:08 > 0:46:12Three ingredients, maximum flavour.

0:46:12 > 0:46:14Got garlic which I crushed it.

0:46:14 > 0:46:19I've got one chilli and rosemary. Then olive oil.

0:46:20 > 0:46:23Make sure it is very hot, the pheasant.

0:46:25 > 0:46:28Seal it one side and the other.

0:46:31 > 0:46:32Get a few more pieces.

0:46:32 > 0:46:35You can do this one with a chicken as well, with a rabbit as well.

0:46:37 > 0:46:40You know, all kind of game and poultry.

0:46:40 > 0:46:43I got nice pancetta.

0:46:43 > 0:46:48If you don't have pancetta, use a bit of bacon just to give it that extra flavour.

0:46:48 > 0:46:51Yeah! Just put them on top.

0:46:53 > 0:46:56I'm going to put some garlic in this, which I crushed.

0:46:56 > 0:46:59Bit of chilli. This is not very hot.

0:47:00 > 0:47:04Dried chilli, fresh chilli. Look at this rosemary.

0:47:04 > 0:47:06Lovely, fresh. Just picked it up.

0:47:06 > 0:47:09Cover and cook slowly for 35,40 minutes.

0:47:09 > 0:47:15Get about a glass of wine or two and then - hallelujah!

0:47:17 > 0:47:22Yeah, it's done. Few ingredients, maximum flavour.

0:47:23 > 0:47:26Inside, the hunters are cooking the local staple - polenta.

0:47:26 > 0:47:31But it's not like any polenta I have ever seen.

0:47:31 > 0:47:33They don't have corn here,

0:47:33 > 0:47:37but they still make do with what they call black polenta.

0:47:37 > 0:47:39- Bravo!- Bravo!

0:47:42 > 0:47:48So this is buckwheat polenta with just water and a bit of butter. Nothing else.

0:47:50 > 0:47:51Mmm!

0:47:53 > 0:47:57First time that I eat this polenta. Very good.

0:47:57 > 0:47:58- Gennaro.- Ready?

0:47:58 > 0:48:02Wonderful. Oh!

0:48:06 > 0:48:08Mmmm!

0:48:08 > 0:48:09- Mmmm! Yes or no?- Yes.

0:48:09 > 0:48:11You can hear him! He said "yes"!

0:48:12 > 0:48:14BOTH: Yes!

0:48:14 > 0:48:16Buon appetito!

0:48:18 > 0:48:22- Did you shoot that bird? - No, I didn't shoot the bird.

0:48:22 > 0:48:24- You didn't?- They shot it.

0:48:24 > 0:48:27- And what did you do with the bird? - I cooked the bird.

0:48:27 > 0:48:29They are coming up all together.

0:48:29 > 0:48:32They make this polenta which takes some time,

0:48:32 > 0:48:34so it is fantastically...

0:48:34 > 0:48:36But they are a very nice bunch of people.

0:48:38 > 0:48:41'After the war, getting by up here near the Swiss border

0:48:41 > 0:48:43'involved something else.'

0:48:57 > 0:48:59- Ah!- That's very, very clever.

0:48:59 > 0:49:03He means the smuggling!

0:49:03 > 0:49:05When two countries they have different systems

0:49:05 > 0:49:08where the economics is slightly different,

0:49:08 > 0:49:11the arrangiarsi is to go to one side,

0:49:11 > 0:49:14bring things that are cheaper to the other.

0:49:14 > 0:49:18- Questa?- Ecco, questa andava in Svizzera portava sacchi di caffe.

0:49:18 > 0:49:20Quello li e caffe.

0:49:20 > 0:49:26There was smuggling of coffee with mules. It's very interesting.

0:49:26 > 0:49:29They were all goods that were much cheaper in Switzerland.

0:49:29 > 0:49:32Cheaper. Antonio, guarda questo.

0:49:32 > 0:49:37- Cigarette!- That's lovely. The smuggling of cigarettes.

0:49:37 > 0:49:39Unbelievable.

0:49:39 > 0:49:43Also women. Anche le donne. Perche? Quanto?

0:49:43 > 0:49:47Quelle li, le nascostevano sotto i vestiti, no?

0:49:47 > 0:49:51So in this picture here, this shown how the ladies,

0:49:51 > 0:49:55they were taking the cigarettes, see, out of their pants.

0:49:55 > 0:50:00The women concealed contraband under their skirts, and were mules too.

0:50:00 > 0:50:03Have a look at this one, Antonio. Look where she put the cigarette.

0:50:03 > 0:50:06Have a look! I can't believe it.

0:50:06 > 0:50:08GENNARO LAUGHS

0:50:09 > 0:50:12In places where you can't tell.

0:50:20 > 0:50:25Here in the Alps feels such a long way from my place near Naples.

0:50:28 > 0:50:31Like me, pizza comes from the South.

0:50:31 > 0:50:35But if I adapt the ingredients, like they do in the North,

0:50:35 > 0:50:38we will get by - arrangiarsi.

0:50:38 > 0:50:42- Did you collect all this, old man? - What are you doing?- Lovely pizza.

0:50:42 > 0:50:45You know I wanted to remember a little bit my home town, make a pizza.

0:50:45 > 0:50:49But here they actually make nice pizza. They call, pizza valtellinese.

0:50:49 > 0:50:50So, what do you do now?

0:50:50 > 0:50:56OK. Then inside here I put 500 grams of strong flour.

0:50:56 > 0:50:58You need a strong flour to make pizza.

0:50:58 > 0:51:03Then I put roughly about ten grams of salt. Yeah?

0:51:03 > 0:51:05Yeah.

0:51:05 > 0:51:09Mix in properly, the salt and the flour,

0:51:09 > 0:51:12- and, when I went to get... - Where did you get that one?

0:51:12 > 0:51:16- Yeast. Then you mix it.- Yeah.

0:51:16 > 0:51:18Tell you, I've made this so many times. Then you add water.

0:51:18 > 0:51:20- Yeah.- Slowly, slowly, slowly.

0:51:20 > 0:51:24Uh-huh? Shall I hold the thing here?

0:51:24 > 0:51:26Yeah, hold the... Oh, you know, you're good.

0:51:26 > 0:51:30And then you mix all together. There is nothing to mixing it. Doesn't take very long.

0:51:32 > 0:51:36- Oh yeah.- Oh yeah.- Oh yeah.

0:51:36 > 0:51:38Now at this stage,

0:51:38 > 0:51:42cover and leave it for about half hour.

0:51:43 > 0:51:47After half hour, you get the dough.

0:51:47 > 0:51:50You work it and you make it to a little ball.

0:51:50 > 0:51:53When you make a little ball like that,

0:51:53 > 0:51:56you let it rest for about nearly two hours.

0:51:56 > 0:51:57The pizza dough is ready so,

0:51:57 > 0:52:00- That's why it's called fast food, eh?- Yeah. Not really.

0:52:00 > 0:52:03Put a bit of flour on the dough.

0:52:04 > 0:52:05Press it.

0:52:05 > 0:52:07Look at this dough.

0:52:09 > 0:52:12Gennaro, for certain, the pizza has quite some mystery behind it.

0:52:12 > 0:52:14There's lots of mystery, why up here.

0:52:14 > 0:52:18Pinched from the Arabs. by the Italians.

0:52:18 > 0:52:20Yeah, pitta bread at the beginning, you know.

0:52:20 > 0:52:25- Now we need to put something on top.- Yes, what?

0:52:25 > 0:52:29- Creme fraiche?- Creme fraiche, that's not working for me.

0:52:29 > 0:52:32It's gruyere.

0:52:32 > 0:52:34Lovely. I like gruyere.

0:52:35 > 0:52:37I just love it. It's such a good cheese.

0:52:37 > 0:52:43Mozzarella comes from the south, so I'm making do with some Gruyere.

0:52:43 > 0:52:44Olive oil.

0:52:44 > 0:52:47Lovely colour, look at this.

0:52:49 > 0:52:50Spread.

0:52:52 > 0:52:54- it's done.- And that's all?- No.

0:52:59 > 0:53:02Very fine. Can you see the lovely onions that give it that lovely flavour?

0:53:02 > 0:53:06Yeah. What, what is this. Ah!

0:53:06 > 0:53:10Just need a few slices of salami. Just on top.

0:53:10 > 0:53:13But I would put it flat because otherwise it burns there on the top.

0:53:13 > 0:53:17- OK.- Yeah, like this one. Better.

0:53:17 > 0:53:19Better? Little trace of olive oil.

0:53:20 > 0:53:22- Again?- Oh, yeah.

0:53:23 > 0:53:27You got nice, fresh oregano.

0:53:27 > 0:53:31- Now it's ready to go. - OK, put it in.

0:53:31 > 0:53:34Shall I? Put him in. Like you say, one, two, three. Look at that. Oh, yes.

0:53:34 > 0:53:37- Perfect.- Perfect pizza.

0:53:47 > 0:53:50That looks wonderful. Lovely.

0:53:50 > 0:53:53It's still bubbling. Look! Oh!

0:53:53 > 0:53:56Wow! This is a proper pizza!

0:53:56 > 0:53:57- Yeah!- It looks good.

0:53:57 > 0:54:03Last, bit of fresh oregano. Going to give it nice...

0:54:04 > 0:54:08- Oh, yes.- Let's see.- Let's see.

0:54:12 > 0:54:14- Yes or no?- Yes, Gennaro!

0:54:14 > 0:54:18Oh! I got it, got it, got it!

0:54:24 > 0:54:27We have learned how people used to survive here -

0:54:27 > 0:54:31smuggling, fighting and scraping a living from the land.

0:54:31 > 0:54:34And we have met people who have adapted these strategies

0:54:34 > 0:54:36to get by in today's world.

0:54:36 > 0:54:39I'm going to enjoy the landscape here.

0:54:39 > 0:54:40It's wonderful.

0:54:40 > 0:54:44And now, I have just one last wish.

0:54:44 > 0:54:46Fishing.

0:54:46 > 0:54:48I would like to eat the trout.

0:54:48 > 0:54:50Oh well, I've got an old fishing rod out the back.

0:54:50 > 0:54:55Gennaro has proved himself the ultimate boy scout. Born survivor.

0:54:56 > 0:54:58I've got a small one.

0:54:59 > 0:55:03Come on! Come on, I need to feed Antonio.

0:55:08 > 0:55:10Didn't go very far.

0:55:10 > 0:55:13You know when somebody is in a situation and said

0:55:13 > 0:55:15"Oh, I don't know what to do,"

0:55:15 > 0:55:19and somebody said, "Well, arrangiati - just get on with it."

0:55:19 > 0:55:22And Gennaro can.

0:55:22 > 0:55:24That didn't go very far. What's happened?

0:55:24 > 0:55:28Because he has been brought up on the road,

0:55:28 > 0:55:30he was swimming instead of going to school,

0:55:30 > 0:55:33and he grew up in the most natural of the ways.

0:55:33 > 0:55:35So he goes picking anything,

0:55:35 > 0:55:38he does really wonderful things, actually.

0:55:38 > 0:55:43Come, there's a bit of cheese at the end. Come on.

0:55:43 > 0:55:46Ya! Jesus. I'm cheesed-off.

0:55:46 > 0:55:49I don't think they like very much this cheese.

0:55:49 > 0:55:51There's plenty fish, and I can't get any.

0:55:52 > 0:55:54- Gennaro?- Yeah?

0:55:54 > 0:55:55I am, I am hungry.

0:55:55 > 0:55:59Yes. Yeah. Here.

0:56:00 > 0:56:04No fish, no matter! There is always mushrooms.

0:56:04 > 0:56:06Thank you!

0:56:08 > 0:56:11Gennaro, can you put also a bit of salt?

0:56:11 > 0:56:13Wonderful.

0:56:13 > 0:56:17They shouldn't be cooked, just a bit sort of scalded.

0:56:18 > 0:56:21- They are fine.- With two clove of garlic.- Yeah. One there.

0:56:21 > 0:56:25Yeah, I'm going to get another one. So simple, this dish. I can't wait to taste it.

0:56:25 > 0:56:27Garlic, little bit of chilli. How much you like chilli?

0:56:27 > 0:56:29- Oh, quite, quite a lot. - Quite a lot.

0:56:29 > 0:56:31Yes. It's sizzling, you see.

0:56:31 > 0:56:34Sizzling, nice. Add the honey fungus.

0:56:36 > 0:56:38- Can I have a fork, Antonio? - Yes, here.

0:56:39 > 0:56:43Oh, don't break them. They are lovely whole.

0:56:43 > 0:56:45- Because mushrooms, they reduce to nothing.- Yeah.

0:56:45 > 0:56:48You know they are about 95% water.

0:56:53 > 0:56:57Gennaro, that view and the smell makes me really very happy.

0:57:01 > 0:57:03Just the pasta now.

0:57:03 > 0:57:06- Oh, yes.- That's wonderful!

0:57:06 > 0:57:11Oh, that... Italy is the country where

0:57:11 > 0:57:16with just very, very few ingredients you can prepare a speciality.

0:57:16 > 0:57:21Look at this! Yes. Yes. Fantastic.

0:57:21 > 0:57:24Mmmm. Yum.

0:57:26 > 0:57:30'I know as long as I am with Gennaro, we will always get by.'

0:57:30 > 0:57:34- Delightful.- Ohhh, I love it!

0:57:34 > 0:57:36I really didn't believe that would be

0:57:36 > 0:57:41- a wonderful plate of pasta like this...- Mmm.

0:57:41 > 0:57:42..for the two greedy Italians.

0:57:45 > 0:57:49- Can we toast it, Antonio?- We can. - To this beautiful day.

0:57:49 > 0:57:50Your friend!

0:57:54 > 0:57:56Come on, boy!

0:57:56 > 0:57:58'Next time, we're off to the eternal city -

0:58:00 > 0:58:01'Roma!'

0:58:01 > 0:58:04What a friend you are!

0:58:04 > 0:58:08'To see what it means to be a man in Italy today.'

0:58:08 > 0:58:11Gennaro, you lose, there.

0:58:11 > 0:58:14'We will find out if Italy

0:58:14 > 0:58:16'is still a man's world.'

0:58:16 > 0:58:18He has five, five wives.

0:58:18 > 0:58:19With this!

0:58:21 > 0:58:25And we will be eating lots of delicious food.

0:58:25 > 0:58:28- Perfect.- Oh!

0:58:53 > 0:58:56Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd