0:00:04 > 0:00:08You can learn a lot about a country by travelling on its railways.
0:00:08 > 0:00:13I went out with a maintenance crew to repair the track in Tanzania.
0:00:14 > 0:00:17But our maintenance trolley broke down.
0:00:17 > 0:00:21So now we're stranded in the middle of the African bush.
0:00:25 > 0:00:29I'm beginning to think Tazara, the Tanzania-Zambia railway,
0:00:29 > 0:00:33may not be as efficient as their PR woman had led me to believe.
0:00:33 > 0:00:36But at least we're not in any danger.
0:00:36 > 0:00:40Apparently, as long as you remain silent, elephants rarely stampede.
0:00:44 > 0:00:47TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS
0:00:47 > 0:00:49ENGINE STARTS
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- I'm Mr Langan.- I'm Shuly. - Huh?- Shuly.
0:01:28 > 0:01:31- Nice to meet you, Shuly. - It's my pleasure.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34- How do you say, jambo? - Jambo.
0:01:47 > 0:01:49Thank you.
0:01:49 > 0:01:50That was lovely.
0:01:59 > 0:02:03I've just left Dar es Salaam train station.
0:02:03 > 0:02:05I should arrive in Zambia,
0:02:05 > 0:02:09Kapiri Mposhi, in two or three days.
0:02:09 > 0:02:11To be honest, everything I know about trains,
0:02:11 > 0:02:13I got from Thomas the Tank Engine.
0:02:13 > 0:02:19But then the Tanzania-Zambia Railway Authority was never just a railway company.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21It's Africa's Freedom Railway.
0:02:23 > 0:02:25THEY SING
0:02:31 > 0:02:34Built by the Chinese to carry copper out of Zambia, Tazara
0:02:34 > 0:02:39also carried the hopes and dreams of post-independence Africa.
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- Jambo.- Jambo.
0:02:42 > 0:02:44THEY SING
0:03:02 > 0:03:08Wow. Walked into third class, bumped into a choir.
0:03:12 > 0:03:18Completed in 1975, Tazara was China's first major development project in Africa.
0:03:18 > 0:03:22A new kind of foreign investment based on mutual benefit,
0:03:22 > 0:03:25as Chairman Mao called it, instead of colonial plunder.
0:03:27 > 0:03:30But whereas China's interests in Africa have grown massively,
0:03:30 > 0:03:34Africa's Freedom Railway has struggled to survive.
0:03:34 > 0:03:40By the end of last year, Tazara was on the brink of collapse and I wanted to find out why.
0:03:41 > 0:03:43TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS
0:03:50 > 0:03:54The train travels through Selous, the largest game reserve in Africa,
0:03:54 > 0:03:57and across the flat plains and farm land of Tanzania,
0:03:57 > 0:04:02before winding its way up the mountains and crossing into Zambia,
0:04:02 > 0:04:04stopping at Kapiri Mposhi.
0:04:16 > 0:04:18Good morning.
0:04:18 > 0:04:20Morning, morning!
0:04:20 > 0:04:21He's still asleep.
0:04:23 > 0:04:25Come in, come in. Please come in.
0:04:27 > 0:04:30'America considers China's growing presence in Africa a threat.
0:04:30 > 0:04:34'But my neighbours in first class seemed pretty friendly to me.'
0:04:34 > 0:04:36Are you here on holiday?
0:04:36 > 0:04:40- For work.- For work? - To build the highway.
0:04:40 > 0:04:4530,000 Chinese workers build this railway. Is it famous in China?
0:04:45 > 0:04:49Yes. The people who is older, they know this.
0:04:49 > 0:04:50- Ah.- Yes.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53Tanzania and China, they are friends.
0:04:53 > 0:04:54- Very close?- Yes.
0:04:54 > 0:04:56The brother country!
0:04:58 > 0:05:02My other neighbours were grandmothers from Zambia, they are local traders.
0:05:03 > 0:05:05THEY LAUGH
0:05:05 > 0:05:07Are you suspicious of me?
0:05:07 > 0:05:08No, I'm not suspicious
0:05:08 > 0:05:12because you have introduced yourself that you are from BBC.
0:05:12 > 0:05:15'I was amazed to discover they'd also just come from China.
0:05:15 > 0:05:19'They buy cheap goods in Beijing and sell them in Zambia.'
0:05:19 > 0:05:21Do you remember when Tazara started,
0:05:21 > 0:05:27what it was like under President Nyerere and Kaunda?
0:05:27 > 0:05:29That liberation struggle?
0:05:29 > 0:05:31I was there.
0:05:31 > 0:05:36I was a...politician.
0:05:36 > 0:05:41- You were what, sorry? - I was a politician myself.
0:05:41 > 0:05:43- Politician? - I was working together with Kaunda.
0:05:43 > 0:05:48- Oh really?- Yes.- So you were part of the liberation struggle?
0:05:48 > 0:05:52- And the struggle for independence? - Yeah. I do it.
0:05:52 > 0:05:53- Wow.- Yes.
0:05:53 > 0:05:58And do you think it's been a success so far?
0:05:58 > 0:06:01Are things getting better now in Zambia?
0:06:01 > 0:06:05Not now. In the time of Kaunda, it was better.
0:06:05 > 0:06:09- Oh, you think it was better then? - Yes. Better than here.- Oh, really?
0:06:09 > 0:06:11Because there are so many...
0:06:11 > 0:06:15- corruption.- So many corruptions?- Yes.
0:06:15 > 0:06:17Does that make it difficult doing business?
0:06:17 > 0:06:20Yes. It is good, but, you know.
0:06:27 > 0:06:30I'd been promised complementary toilet paper and mineral water,
0:06:30 > 0:06:34so I went in search of the first class coach assistant.
0:06:35 > 0:06:38- How are you?- Fine.- Jambo.
0:06:38 > 0:06:44- I don't know how to speak Swahili. - Ah. You're from Zambia?- Yes.
0:06:44 > 0:06:47- That's why your English is so good! - Yes.
0:06:47 > 0:06:49- What is your name?- I'm Cynthia.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51- Sorry?- Cynthia.
0:06:51 > 0:06:54- Cynthia. My name's Sean.- OK.
0:06:54 > 0:06:56How long have you worked on Tazara?
0:06:56 > 0:06:58- Tazara?- How many years? One year?
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- Not years. Only three months.- Oh.
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- Yes.- Do you like it?- Yes, I like it.
0:07:04 > 0:07:06- Yeah? You enjoy it?- Yes.
0:07:06 > 0:07:12Tazara's had to cut its passenger service from six trains a week to only two.
0:07:12 > 0:07:16But it still provides a vital lifeline for the rural community.
0:07:16 > 0:07:18THEY SING
0:07:26 > 0:07:29Local farmers and traders call it the People's Railway
0:07:29 > 0:07:31and use it to carry everything
0:07:31 > 0:07:34from crops to kitchenware, livestock and...
0:07:34 > 0:07:35Caterpillars? Wow.
0:07:35 > 0:07:39And are you bringing that to sell somewhere?
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- Yes, I'm going to Kapiri to sell. - To Kapiri?- Yes.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- Is it nice, caterpillar? - Yes, very nice, caterpillar. You eat.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54Very nice!
0:07:54 > 0:07:56You know what?
0:07:56 > 0:07:59No, it's not bad, I promise.
0:08:01 > 0:08:04That one's going out the window. Whooh!
0:08:10 > 0:08:16And it's not only traders on the train, at every stop an army of food sellers emerge.
0:08:16 > 0:08:20Mama Ntilies, they're called, or literally, "mama serve me".
0:08:26 > 0:08:31As the train makes its way through the countryside, it brings "maisha"
0:08:31 > 0:08:33which means life in Swahili, or livelihood.
0:08:33 > 0:08:38But I was looking for my complimentary bed clothing and went to find Cynthia.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42- Have you finished your work for tonight?- For tonight?
0:08:42 > 0:08:44We are still working.
0:08:46 > 0:08:49- All night?- Yes. All night.
0:08:49 > 0:08:52When do you go to sleep?
0:08:52 > 0:08:53Any station, you should wake up.
0:08:53 > 0:09:01When I reach Mlimba, I wake up. When I reach Ifakara, I should wake up.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04So you don't really sleep at night?
0:09:04 > 0:09:06No.
0:09:15 > 0:09:20Well, we're finally here - Kapiri Mposhi. It's been a long journey.
0:09:28 > 0:09:31Kapiri Mposhi is the gateway to Zambia's Copper Belt.
0:09:31 > 0:09:37But thanks to my research - Thomas The Tank Engine - I knew there was someone important I had to meet.
0:09:37 > 0:09:40He'd be able to tell me everything about the railway.
0:09:40 > 0:09:41Good morning, Mr Station Master!
0:09:41 > 0:09:43Good to see you.
0:09:43 > 0:09:45- Thank you.- So this is your office?
0:09:45 > 0:09:47This is my office.
0:09:47 > 0:09:48And is this your station?
0:09:48 > 0:09:50Yes. Actually, I would say it's my station.
0:09:50 > 0:09:52It's your station, isn't it?
0:09:52 > 0:09:55I'm in charge. But there are some big, big people to see.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58But it doesn't get any bigger than the station master!
0:09:58 > 0:10:01Who could possibly be bigger than you?
0:10:01 > 0:10:03This is your station, yeah?
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- Yes!- I know you have to say there's some bigger people.- Yes.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10Ah! Mr Station Manager!
0:10:10 > 0:10:11What is that?
0:10:11 > 0:10:16- This is a trophy.- Wow. For what?
0:10:18 > 0:10:21So it says, "Regional Managers.
0:10:21 > 0:10:26"Floating trophy. Best Traffic District Annual Safety Award."
0:10:26 > 0:10:27When did you get that?
0:10:27 > 0:10:31Mmm...1988.
0:10:31 > 0:10:35- 20 years ago?- Yes.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37That's the last time you won it?
0:10:37 > 0:10:41Yes. In fact, it was a promotion for safety.
0:10:41 > 0:10:43- Yeah.- Yes.- Right.
0:10:43 > 0:10:51Yes. There were some days which you're given, without causing an accident with the trains...
0:10:51 > 0:10:54- You got that? - Yes. Being awarded this.
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- He switch sides.- Are you sure?
0:10:57 > 0:10:58Oh, my God!
0:10:58 > 0:11:00THEY LAUGH
0:11:04 > 0:11:07'Joseph agreed to take me on a tour of the goods yard.'
0:11:12 > 0:11:14This is the caesium copper.
0:11:14 > 0:11:18And this is the biggest export from Zambia?
0:11:18 > 0:11:20Exactly. Exactly.
0:11:21 > 0:11:24Wow. It's a sea of copper!
0:11:24 > 0:11:29This copper alone must be worth quite a few thousand dollars.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32- 2,920kg.- Right.
0:11:32 > 0:11:35Which is about 2.9 tonnes.
0:11:36 > 0:11:39'It's worth more than a few thousand.
0:11:39 > 0:11:44'This single pallet alone is worth over 20,000 US at today's prices.
0:11:44 > 0:11:46'And the whole yard was worth millions.'
0:11:47 > 0:11:50This is what it's all about.
0:11:50 > 0:11:52The copper.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56This is why the railway, Tazara, was built by the Chinese.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00To get this copper out of Zambia.
0:12:02 > 0:12:05Do you have a small farm?
0:12:05 > 0:12:07Yes, I have a small.
0:12:07 > 0:12:10To sustain my family.
0:12:10 > 0:12:12What do you grow on your farm?
0:12:12 > 0:12:14- Maize.- Maize.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18So you need a farm to sustain your family?
0:12:18 > 0:12:20I've got five children.
0:12:21 > 0:12:23They go to secondary schools.
0:12:23 > 0:12:30To pay for the schools and for feeding.
0:12:30 > 0:12:37Sometimes, it's a choice, is it, between buying maize or medicine, if one of your children get sick?
0:12:40 > 0:12:45When I've got maize, sometimes I may sell maybe one or two bags
0:12:45 > 0:12:49to get money to buy medicine.
0:12:49 > 0:12:51That's why farming is good.
0:12:53 > 0:12:55Yeah.
0:13:01 > 0:13:06Joseph also has a pension plan, a little project he's been working on to raise some extra cash.
0:13:06 > 0:13:10'It was just a short walk along the track back at his house.'
0:13:10 > 0:13:13So this is your project?
0:13:13 > 0:13:15My project is behind here.
0:13:19 > 0:13:22The salary that I'm getting is too little, you know?
0:13:22 > 0:13:25I've got five children, with these other three.
0:13:25 > 0:13:28So these are my plans.
0:13:28 > 0:13:30These will be assisting me.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34You want to breed them?
0:13:34 > 0:13:37To start having lots of pigs and then to sell them?
0:13:37 > 0:13:39Yes, to sell them. Exactly.
0:13:41 > 0:13:44Joseph's wife, Minerva, has gone back to school.
0:13:44 > 0:13:48And Joseph was so proud, he wanted me to meet her.
0:13:48 > 0:13:51- Hello, madam.- How are you?
0:13:51 > 0:13:53I'm very pleased to meet you.
0:13:53 > 0:13:55I'm so sorry to come round. It's lovely to meet you.
0:13:55 > 0:13:57OK. Thank you to meet you.
0:13:57 > 0:14:00I'm Sean from the BBC.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03We were waiting to see you in your school uniform.
0:14:03 > 0:14:05You look very smart. It looks great.
0:14:05 > 0:14:07So are you enjoying school?
0:14:07 > 0:14:09- Yes, very much.- Must be lovely.
0:14:09 > 0:14:11What are you studying?
0:14:11 > 0:14:14It's a lot. All the subjects.
0:14:14 > 0:14:16- You're doing all the subjects?- Yes.
0:14:16 > 0:14:21Imagine - after giving five children, she decides to go back to school!
0:14:21 > 0:14:23Bye-bye. Bye, children.
0:14:23 > 0:14:27'As I was leaving, Joseph told me they now have three extra children to care for.
0:14:27 > 0:14:31'Their mother, Joseph's niece, had recently died of AIDS.'
0:14:34 > 0:14:41The next day, I join passengers boarding the train for the long journey back to Dar es Salaam.
0:14:41 > 0:14:45Shuly, how are you? You've got a lovely new hairstyle. Yes?
0:14:45 > 0:14:47- Thank you very much.- Looks lovely.
0:14:47 > 0:14:49- How was your weekend?- It was nice.
0:14:49 > 0:14:52Did you go to the hairdresser on Saturday?
0:14:52 > 0:14:54No, it's just a wig.
0:14:54 > 0:14:56- No! Is it?- Yes.
0:14:56 > 0:14:58- Is it a wig?- Yeah.- Wow.
0:14:58 > 0:15:01- How are you, Cynthia?- OK. - I'm on your coach today, yeah?
0:15:01 > 0:15:03- Not Shuly's?- OK.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13Is your hair yours, or is it a wig?
0:15:13 > 0:15:15- Yes, it's a wig.- Ah!
0:15:15 > 0:15:18So is that the fashion in Zambia?
0:15:18 > 0:15:21- Yes, it's a fashion. - They look very good.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25- Huh?- They look very good. - OK, thank you.
0:15:31 > 0:15:35The next morning, I woke up to find our train had come to a stop.
0:15:35 > 0:15:41And, for some reason, there seemed to be a lot of mechanics poking about under my first class carriage.
0:15:50 > 0:15:53- Coach number 1004. - Is there a problem with...?
0:15:53 > 0:15:55No, it's for fuel.
0:15:55 > 0:15:57- Oh, it's just refuelling?- Yeah.- OK.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01Well, I heard the maintenance crew saying
0:16:01 > 0:16:04there's a problem with this compartment,
0:16:04 > 0:16:08but I don't think they want to admit it to me.
0:16:08 > 0:16:11So they are saying there's not a problem with the train.
0:16:12 > 0:16:17- So, Sir, what's the problem with this carriage?- I think he...
0:16:17 > 0:16:19there's no problem of this train.
0:16:19 > 0:16:24- But this compartment may not be able to travel?- Yes. Yes.
0:16:24 > 0:16:28So there is something wrong with this carriage?
0:16:28 > 0:16:31Yes, something wrong. But it's minor something.
0:16:31 > 0:16:33- Minor, yeah.- Yes, minor something.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35- Is it the wheels?- Yes.
0:16:35 > 0:16:39- The wheel setting.- The wheels?- Yeah. It's all they are.
0:16:39 > 0:16:41There's a problem with this...
0:16:41 > 0:16:44- This train?- This compartment.
0:16:44 > 0:16:45This carriage.
0:16:48 > 0:16:51We put letters... hello, sir, how are you?
0:16:51 > 0:16:55- I like this, a letter box for the train!- Yeah.
0:16:55 > 0:16:59Nice tracksuit.
0:16:59 > 0:17:01Tracksuits.
0:17:04 > 0:17:06It's a good thing we're delayed.
0:17:09 > 0:17:15'With only one day off a week, Cynthia and Shuly work, sleep, eat and shop on the train.'
0:17:15 > 0:17:17- That's nice. Honestly, really. - This one?
0:17:17 > 0:17:21Let me have a look. I used to work in fashion as a fashion journalist.
0:17:21 > 0:17:24- THEY LAUGH - Really! Why are you laughing?
0:17:24 > 0:17:27I think that's lovely.
0:17:27 > 0:17:30'As the girls haggled with the trader over a few pennies,'
0:17:30 > 0:17:35I looked out across all the copper wagons, worth millions of dollars, just sitting there.
0:17:36 > 0:17:39The goods train had been stranded for two days,
0:17:39 > 0:17:41not due to a technical fault like ours,
0:17:41 > 0:17:44but because there was no money to pay for the fuel.
0:17:44 > 0:17:49The workers I spoke to blamed mismanagement and corruption.
0:17:53 > 0:17:57But it looked like they'd managed to fix the minor problem with the wheels.
0:18:00 > 0:18:02Shuly, is the train leaving without us?
0:18:02 > 0:18:04It will come. Don't...
0:18:04 > 0:18:06- Oh, don't worry?- Yes.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09OK. Bye-bye!
0:18:09 > 0:18:10The three girls...
0:18:10 > 0:18:14I was going to look at the copper, but the girls are calling.
0:18:20 > 0:18:24After a four hour delay, it was great to be on the move again.
0:18:29 > 0:18:30But we didn't get very far.
0:18:31 > 0:18:33BRAKES SQUEAK
0:18:34 > 0:18:38Are we stuck here tonight?
0:18:38 > 0:18:41It could be so. But we'll be leaving any time,
0:18:41 > 0:18:44I'm pretty sure we'll be leaving any time.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48Our train had come to a halt because of an accident further up the line.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51A goods train had been derailed.
0:18:51 > 0:18:53I seemed the only one to be surprised.
0:18:54 > 0:18:56How long are we going to be delayed for?
0:18:56 > 0:19:02This...well, I'm not certain, because we have no communication with the accident site.
0:19:02 > 0:19:04- Ah.- Yes.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07- Have you seen this kind of thing before?- Yes.
0:19:07 > 0:19:11Have you seen these kind of things happen before, a derailment?
0:19:11 > 0:19:13Oh, yes, several times. Yes, several times.
0:19:13 > 0:19:15Has it ever happened to you?
0:19:15 > 0:19:17- Yes.- Really?- Yeah.
0:19:17 > 0:19:21Really. Not once, many times as well.
0:19:21 > 0:19:22That's dangerous?
0:19:22 > 0:19:25Not so much dangerous.
0:19:25 > 0:19:29Because our line profile is now quite poor.
0:19:29 > 0:19:31- No proper maintenance.- Yes.- Yes.
0:19:31 > 0:19:34I'll come up and say hello.
0:19:36 > 0:19:40- Can I say, it's a great privilege and honour to meet you.- OK. OK. OK.
0:19:40 > 0:19:43You're doing a great job. Why are you laughing?
0:19:43 > 0:19:46THEY LAUGH
0:19:46 > 0:19:49Remember, you're the men who get us there. You're the men we rely on.
0:19:49 > 0:19:53- Yes, we are. - You're used to these kind of delays.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55It's quite normal, yes.
0:19:55 > 0:19:59Your speedometer says we are doing we are doing 25/30 kilometres.
0:19:59 > 0:20:02Oh, no, no. We don't get 20. It's not working properly.
0:20:07 > 0:20:08We should blow the horn.
0:20:08 > 0:20:12Also, you can see the cable, this cable should be here.
0:20:12 > 0:20:14- Right here.- So, you guess the speed?
0:20:14 > 0:20:16Yes, we guess the speed.
0:20:16 > 0:20:20Some time ago we used to count these telephone poles,
0:20:20 > 0:20:24but now I can just look outside and give out an estimate.
0:20:24 > 0:20:28Well, I can tell you now that we are doing zero.
0:20:28 > 0:20:30This now is zero.
0:20:32 > 0:20:35- I might come and join you. Have a beer.- You should.
0:20:35 > 0:20:38- I think we'll be here for a while. - Yeah, maybe around 20 hours.
0:20:38 > 0:20:41That's what they're saying.
0:20:41 > 0:20:44- Another 20 hours? - Around 20 hours. That's a long time.
0:20:44 > 0:20:48We must settle for 20 hours.
0:20:50 > 0:20:52By which time we expect him
0:20:52 > 0:20:57to finish clearing the wreckage on the line.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04Well, it's now 11 o'clock at night
0:21:04 > 0:21:07and we're still stuck in the middle of nowhere.
0:21:07 > 0:21:12We were supposed to have arrived in Dar es Salaam at midday this morning.
0:21:12 > 0:21:14I can hear babies crying.
0:21:14 > 0:21:17Cos it's stifling hot and humid.
0:21:18 > 0:21:21There are no lights on in the compartments.
0:21:21 > 0:21:25And third class is completely dark.
0:21:27 > 0:21:31And these passengers... For me, it is a train journey,
0:21:31 > 0:21:37and this particular one feels as intense as when I was filming in war zones. I'm exhausted.
0:21:37 > 0:21:40Yet, this is just a train journey,
0:21:40 > 0:21:42and an everyday...
0:21:42 > 0:21:44occurrence for the passengers.
0:21:44 > 0:21:46- Hi, how are you?- Hi. OK.
0:21:46 > 0:21:48We're not leaving?
0:21:48 > 0:21:50Not just yet.
0:21:50 > 0:21:52- Not just yet.- You must be tired.
0:21:52 > 0:21:57I was just saying, for me, this is an experience, but for you, this is your everyday life.
0:21:57 > 0:22:00Yeah, everyday life.
0:22:00 > 0:22:03And you're on the train back.
0:22:03 > 0:22:07Sometimes we get to Dar es Salaam tomorrow,
0:22:07 > 0:22:11the same day, and turn back.
0:22:11 > 0:22:13How are you, Cynthia?
0:22:13 > 0:22:15I'm fine. Thanks.
0:22:15 > 0:22:18In the future, what would you hope to do?
0:22:18 > 0:22:21- In the future? - If you had your dreams come true.
0:22:24 > 0:22:28I want to have a happy family.
0:22:28 > 0:22:34Yes. To get married, with four children.
0:22:34 > 0:22:37Four children? That's a nice dream.
0:22:37 > 0:22:42- Yes.- Are you in love?- Not yet. - Have you ever been in love?
0:22:42 > 0:22:46Yes, now too much disappointment.
0:22:46 > 0:22:48Too much disappointment?
0:22:48 > 0:22:50- Yes.- That's men.
0:22:50 > 0:22:53- Yes.- I'm sorry.
0:23:03 > 0:23:08Well, I just saw a wagon down there and I'm not sure
0:23:08 > 0:23:13if it's part of the derailed train last night that delayed us.
0:23:13 > 0:23:15It's now six in the morning.
0:23:17 > 0:23:19At least we're moving again.
0:23:21 > 0:23:23This is the express train.
0:23:23 > 0:23:26We are going along at a snail's pace.
0:23:26 > 0:23:30We were supposed to arrive in Dar es Salaam yesterday at midday.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38We limped back into Dar es salaam.
0:23:40 > 0:23:44A breakdown, a derailment, and a 20-hour delay.
0:23:44 > 0:23:48Freedom Railway, built to carry the vast copper wealth of Zambia,
0:23:48 > 0:23:51and the dreams of post-independence Africa,
0:23:51 > 0:23:53was literally grinding to a halt.
0:23:53 > 0:23:55And now I wanted to find out why.
0:23:59 > 0:24:05Well, here I am at the head office of the Tanzania Zambia Railway Authority, Tazara.
0:24:08 > 0:24:10I just want to show you this as well.
0:24:10 > 0:24:12- Jambo.- Jambo.
0:24:12 > 0:24:15These are the founding fathers of the Tazara railway.
0:24:16 > 0:24:20President Nyerere, the first president of Tanzania,
0:24:20 > 0:24:25and President Kaunda, the first president of independent Zambia.
0:24:25 > 0:24:28But The Great Leader, Chairman Mao?
0:24:28 > 0:24:30I thought China had moved on.
0:24:32 > 0:24:34The head office is the hub of any operation.
0:24:34 > 0:24:38But this one felt more like an abandoned outpost.
0:24:41 > 0:24:45It doesn't really matter what time you come to the Tazara head office.
0:24:45 > 0:24:49It's a huge building with all these corridors, lots of offices,
0:24:49 > 0:24:52but it always seems to be empty.
0:24:54 > 0:24:58And this is the place and these are the people who are running the whole network.
0:25:01 > 0:25:03So here's one door which says
0:25:03 > 0:25:07Manager, Corporation Planning and Research.
0:25:13 > 0:25:16One of these offices is where the Chinese are.
0:25:16 > 0:25:20I'm whispering because they don't really want me to film them.
0:25:20 > 0:25:22They're like the ghosts in the machine.
0:25:24 > 0:25:28I'd heard rumours about the Chinese advisers working at head office,
0:25:28 > 0:25:31the so-called Chinese Railway Expert Team.
0:25:31 > 0:25:33But no-one could tell me exactly what they did.
0:25:37 > 0:25:40Ah, chief internal auditor.
0:25:40 > 0:25:45He might be able to tell me where all the money's gone.
0:25:45 > 0:25:51In 1969 the Chinese gave Tazara 400 million, interest-free loan.
0:25:51 > 0:25:54In the late '90s,
0:25:54 > 0:25:59'89-92, Western donors gave 150 million.
0:25:59 > 0:26:02And in 2008, Tazara went bankrupt.
0:26:02 > 0:26:04Let's see if he's in.
0:26:09 > 0:26:11Can I ask you a question?
0:26:11 > 0:26:16It's a very big office here, Tazara, but it's always empty.
0:26:16 > 0:26:19Most of these rooms are occupied, they are not empty.
0:26:19 > 0:26:21There are people inside working.
0:26:21 > 0:26:24- I'll come downstairs and say hello. - Fine.
0:26:24 > 0:26:26Hello, sir.
0:26:26 > 0:26:28Let me introduce myself.
0:26:28 > 0:26:30- Are you a journalist?- I am, yes.
0:26:30 > 0:26:33- My name is Sean Langan.- Sho?
0:26:33 > 0:26:36- Sean.- Sean?- Langan?
0:26:36 > 0:26:38Langan. Sean Langan.
0:26:38 > 0:26:41In 2008,
0:26:41 > 0:26:44Tazara went bankrupt.
0:26:44 > 0:26:46No. Watch that, eh?
0:26:46 > 0:26:49We have never been declared bankrupt.
0:26:51 > 0:26:53We didn't go bankrupt last year.
0:26:53 > 0:26:582008, you're talking about last year, we went bankrupt, that's your statement?
0:26:58 > 0:27:02I'm asking you. I thought I read somewhere in newspapers.
0:27:02 > 0:27:05No, it is not true. It was not correct.
0:27:05 > 0:27:08We didn't go bankrupt.
0:27:08 > 0:27:10What do you do?
0:27:10 > 0:27:12I'm a controller here.
0:27:12 > 0:27:13- A controller?- Yes.
0:27:13 > 0:27:17- A train controller or financial controller?- Train controller.
0:27:17 > 0:27:20Oh, you're a train controller. Nice to meet you.
0:27:20 > 0:27:22Can I come and say hello?
0:27:23 > 0:27:26- Boss.- Ah, hello, sir.
0:27:26 > 0:27:28Have I come to the wrong place?
0:27:28 > 0:27:31No, no, no. You are just in the right place.
0:27:31 > 0:27:32Whom are you looking for?
0:27:32 > 0:27:34Nice to meet you, sir.
0:27:34 > 0:27:36My name is Sean, BBC.
0:27:36 > 0:27:39- BBC? OK, my name is Alex. - Nice to meet you.
0:27:39 > 0:27:42- I am a working traffic manager. - You're the traffic manager?
0:27:42 > 0:27:47Yes. This is where we contact our train operations.
0:27:47 > 0:27:54Ah, this was more like it, the control Room, the beating heart of any railway.
0:27:54 > 0:27:57- You're the traffic controller? - The traffic manager.
0:27:57 > 0:27:59I manage all the movement of trains.
0:27:59 > 0:28:04I noticed the train drivers, are you able to talk to them?
0:28:04 > 0:28:08The train drivers, we don't talk to them,
0:28:08 > 0:28:14because we don't have the facility in terms of communication equipment.
0:28:14 > 0:28:19As you can see, our controller is the one on duty.
0:28:19 > 0:28:25And what we use are these train working diagrams.
0:28:25 > 0:28:29This is one where we record the movement of trains.
0:28:29 > 0:28:31But normally, I imagine, in control offices,
0:28:31 > 0:28:35you would see those red lights, the old-fashioned ones.
0:28:35 > 0:28:40No, that is a system which is called Centralised Train Control.
0:28:40 > 0:28:45Even the Fat Controller in Thomas the Tank Engine had those systems.
0:28:45 > 0:28:47The flashing lights.
0:28:47 > 0:28:50OK, but unlike ourselves here.
0:28:50 > 0:28:57We have this control office which is according to the way our resources are.
0:28:57 > 0:28:59We just have to go by this.
0:28:59 > 0:29:03- Because you're doing it on paper. - Yes, it is done on paper.
0:29:03 > 0:29:07The train working diagrams seemed to work well on paper.
0:29:07 > 0:29:11But in reality, Tazara has a hard time keeping track of the trains,
0:29:11 > 0:29:14as they can't actually talk to any of the drivers.
0:29:14 > 0:29:18They have to call the stations and ask them if they've seen a train.
0:29:18 > 0:29:21You are cutting out. What is wrong with your radio?
0:29:21 > 0:29:25I can't help noticing the clock behind you.
0:29:25 > 0:29:30- Ah, yes, this clock.- It's wrong. - At the moment it's not working.
0:29:30 > 0:29:34It has not been connected with power,
0:29:34 > 0:29:37so we just depend on our own watches.
0:29:37 > 0:29:41At least all the controllers can afford to have a watch.
0:29:44 > 0:29:46Good afternoon, Mr Sander.
0:29:46 > 0:29:50- Now, Felix, I want you to do something quickly.- 'Yes, sir.'
0:29:50 > 0:29:54A customer wants the information to track his wagons.
0:29:54 > 0:29:57They want to know...
0:29:57 > 0:29:59The Fat Controller!
0:30:03 > 0:30:07Tazara was clearly not a functioning railway.
0:30:07 > 0:30:11The control room felt more like a comedy of errors.
0:30:11 > 0:30:13Red means stop.
0:30:13 > 0:30:15Red means stop.
0:30:15 > 0:30:17Yellow means start.
0:30:20 > 0:30:25What on earth were the so called Chinese Railway Experts doing?
0:30:25 > 0:30:28This was their biggest development project in Africa.
0:30:31 > 0:30:33I was determined to get some answers.
0:30:33 > 0:30:38But to do that, I needed to speak to Chinese Expert Number One, Mr Meow.
0:30:38 > 0:30:43Or, failing that, Chinese Expert Number Two, Mr Jang.
0:30:45 > 0:30:50And that's when I walked in and found their number three, Mr Yu.
0:30:50 > 0:30:52Hello.
0:30:52 > 0:30:55Ah, Regina and the Chinese experts!
0:30:55 > 0:30:58- How are you?- Fine, thank you. - Happy new year.
0:30:58 > 0:31:02Mr Wu, do you think Mr Jang will give me an interview this time?
0:31:02 > 0:31:05Mr Jang? He's sick.
0:31:05 > 0:31:08- He's sick?- Yeah.- No. Is he in China?
0:31:08 > 0:31:11- Tanzania.- He's in Tanzania?
0:31:11 > 0:31:16Just back from China after a health examination.
0:31:16 > 0:31:18- Please tell him I say hello. - Thank you.
0:31:18 > 0:31:22Will he be coming back to work this week or next week?
0:31:22 > 0:31:24No, tomorrow morning.
0:31:24 > 0:31:28- If you say I'm here.- OK. - And I would love to speak to him.
0:31:28 > 0:31:29Nice to meet you.
0:31:34 > 0:31:37So you are the translator to Mr Meow?
0:31:37 > 0:31:39Yes, Mr Meow.
0:31:39 > 0:31:42And Mr Meow is...?
0:31:42 > 0:31:44- The team leader.- The team leader.
0:31:44 > 0:31:49So if I want to speak to Mr Jang I have to ask permission from Mr Meow?
0:31:49 > 0:31:52Maybe you can just go to talk with Mr Jang.
0:31:52 > 0:31:55Shall I say hello to Mr Meow? Can you introduce me?
0:31:55 > 0:32:00- Mr Meow is not there.- He's not there. - He has gone to the workshop.- OK.
0:32:00 > 0:32:03What workshop? Is there a workshop here?
0:32:03 > 0:32:07The Dar es Salaam workshop, just near by, in there.
0:32:07 > 0:32:12I think I should film that. That's where they maintain the locomotives. It's a good thing to see.
0:32:12 > 0:32:15You can go with Sammy, the chief mechanical engineer.
0:32:15 > 0:32:17This man? What's he called?
0:32:17 > 0:32:20I'll speak to him. Thank you. Hello.
0:32:20 > 0:32:24'I was beginning to feel like the parcel in pass the parcel.'
0:32:24 > 0:32:27Sorry, Sam, I'm from the BBC.
0:32:27 > 0:32:29- Are you the chief mechanical engineer?- Yes.
0:32:29 > 0:32:33- Sorry, my name is Sean Langan.- Yes.
0:32:33 > 0:32:37Are you in charge of the depot here in Dar es Salaam?
0:32:37 > 0:32:42I'm in charge of all the rolling stock which means all depots and workshops.
0:32:42 > 0:32:44What are some of the main
0:32:44 > 0:32:47problems you face? The difficulties?
0:32:47 > 0:32:50Currently what we are facing is
0:32:50 > 0:32:52spare parts missing.
0:32:52 > 0:32:54No equipment.
0:32:54 > 0:32:56For the American locomotives?
0:32:56 > 0:32:58For the entire fleet.
0:32:58 > 0:33:01In terms of wagons, coaches and the locomotives.
0:33:01 > 0:33:03Can I ask
0:33:03 > 0:33:06why is there a problem getting spare parts?
0:33:06 > 0:33:10Currently I can say it is the financial position of the company.
0:33:10 > 0:33:11- Right.- Yeah.
0:33:16 > 0:33:19My next stop - the maintenance depot.
0:33:19 > 0:33:23But I was beginning to wonder if the problem was mismanagement
0:33:23 > 0:33:26and not just a lack of money and spare parts.
0:33:27 > 0:33:30You know, this is like every boy's dream.
0:33:30 > 0:33:33- Uh-huh.- You know, all children love playing with train sets.
0:33:33 > 0:33:37- OK.- This is like a giant train set.
0:33:37 > 0:33:39Can I ask you, is the Chinese equipment...
0:33:39 > 0:33:43What is the best, German, Chinese or American?
0:33:43 > 0:33:45It depends.
0:33:45 > 0:33:48Why is this man laughing when I asked that?
0:33:53 > 0:33:56I think it's safe to say the German ...
0:33:56 > 0:33:58he's still laughing.
0:34:00 > 0:34:05No, we love the Chinese, and they are the ones who helped and co-operated and built it.
0:34:05 > 0:34:07And the Americans said no.
0:34:07 > 0:34:10The American G locomotives are good.
0:34:10 > 0:34:12The G locomotives are good.
0:34:12 > 0:34:16- The Germans are brilliant. - Yeah.- And the Chinese?
0:34:16 > 0:34:20The Chinese, we have seen some limitations in the older models.
0:34:20 > 0:34:25Are the wagons or the locomotives serviced regularly?
0:34:25 > 0:34:31If spare parts were readily available, the maintenance wouldn't have been a problem.
0:34:31 > 0:34:36- OK.- But if we don't have enough parts, and that is the problem.
0:34:36 > 0:34:39- So that's the problem, not the servicing.- Yeah.
0:34:41 > 0:34:47In fact, Tazara has been criticized in official reports for failing to service rolling stock.
0:34:51 > 0:34:53So this is one of the famous Chinese locomotives.
0:34:53 > 0:34:55Is that one of the early ones?
0:34:55 > 0:35:01No, these are the new generation of locomotives from China.
0:35:02 > 0:35:04It is waiting for spare parts.
0:35:04 > 0:35:07It's awaiting spare parts? How new is it? It doesn't look that new.
0:35:07 > 0:35:13Not quite new, it was here since 1998.
0:35:13 > 0:35:15That's quite new.
0:35:15 > 0:35:19- And it's waiting for spare parts? - Yes, for overhaul.
0:35:19 > 0:35:21And a paint job.
0:35:24 > 0:35:30In 2008, the Chinese and African governments were so concerned by the lack of proper maintenance,
0:35:30 > 0:35:32and by the woeful mismanagement,
0:35:32 > 0:35:36they sacked the Managing Director and his Deputy.
0:35:42 > 0:35:44Now that's a big engine.
0:35:45 > 0:35:47Wow!
0:35:47 > 0:35:48Engine type.
0:35:52 > 0:35:552,500 horsepower.
0:35:55 > 0:35:59I had to film that because the train spotters like writing it down.
0:36:01 > 0:36:03Only joking.
0:36:03 > 0:36:05Are these more engines here behind us?
0:36:05 > 0:36:07- These are the MTU.- The what?
0:36:07 > 0:36:10- MTU.- MTU.- These are German-made.
0:36:10 > 0:36:15- These are the German ones?- We used to have a big fleet powered by MTU.
0:36:15 > 0:36:18- In the 1980s? '87?- Yeah.
0:36:19 > 0:36:23But it's quite sad to see these engines behind you
0:36:23 > 0:36:26in such disrepair, because they're beautiful engines.
0:36:26 > 0:36:29These are very powerful and reliable engines.
0:36:29 > 0:36:32But you haven't got equipment to fix them?
0:36:32 > 0:36:33- It's just spare parts.- Spare parts.
0:36:33 > 0:36:36It's like an elephant's graveyard.
0:36:38 > 0:36:44Sir, it's like an elephant's graveyard. It's a bit sad.
0:36:44 > 0:36:48I heard once, one of the trains hit an elephant.
0:36:48 > 0:36:49Ah, yeah.
0:36:49 > 0:36:51- It happens, it happens.- Yeah?
0:36:51 > 0:36:53The last time I was riding to Zambia
0:36:53 > 0:36:57- and we ran into eight elephants.- No!
0:36:57 > 0:37:00- Eight elephants? - And we killed three.
0:37:00 > 0:37:03- And you know what happened? It just bent a bit.- Just dented.
0:37:03 > 0:37:05Wow! That's amazing.
0:37:11 > 0:37:13After all that talk of elephants on the track
0:37:13 > 0:37:17in the Selous Game Reserve, there was only one place to go.
0:37:23 > 0:37:28I headed out on a maintenance trolley with Ismael and his maintenance crew.
0:37:37 > 0:37:41I'm not sure if we are coming out here to fix any track,
0:37:41 > 0:37:44but it's turning into my own little private safari tour.
0:37:59 > 0:38:01The elephants have right of way.
0:38:05 > 0:38:10We came across the rest of the crew, but instead of fixing track, they'd gone fishing.
0:38:19 > 0:38:20Wow! Wow!
0:38:26 > 0:38:29We packed away the fishing rods.
0:38:29 > 0:38:34There was no shortage of fish, it seems, but what we needed was fuel.
0:39:14 > 0:39:16Is there a problem, Ismael?
0:39:16 > 0:39:18No problem.
0:39:18 > 0:39:20- Jambo?- Jambo, Jambo.
0:39:28 > 0:39:31There are 1,000 miles of track to maintain.
0:39:31 > 0:39:34But these men are having to do the work of a tamping machine by hand,
0:39:34 > 0:39:39packing stones as ballast to make the tracks more durable.
0:39:39 > 0:39:44So this is to stop the rail from buckling?
0:39:44 > 0:39:46The ballast.
0:39:46 > 0:39:48To avoid the buckling.
0:39:48 > 0:39:50Exactly.
0:39:52 > 0:39:56These men can't lift the heavy stone sleepers, like the tamping machine,
0:39:56 > 0:39:59which is vital to make the track parallel and level.
0:40:02 > 0:40:04That's important on a railway line.
0:40:04 > 0:40:07I didn't get that from Thomas The Tank Engine!
0:40:08 > 0:40:14Is it true...in the movies, they used to put their ear
0:40:14 > 0:40:16to the track to listen?
0:40:16 > 0:40:21If you listen to the track you can hear a train coming?
0:40:21 > 0:40:23- No.- I used to see that in the old movies.
0:40:23 > 0:40:26- It's not true.- No?- It's not true.- Oh!
0:40:30 > 0:40:34Tazara does have one tamping machine in Tanzania,
0:40:34 > 0:40:38but it was in Dar es Salaam, awaiting spare parts.
0:40:45 > 0:40:48The failure to maintain the track hasn't only caused derailments
0:40:48 > 0:40:53and delays, it poses the constant threat of a serious accident.
0:40:53 > 0:40:56At least our maintenance trolley was running OK...
0:40:59 > 0:41:01ENGINE SPLUTTERS
0:41:11 > 0:41:13When a maintenance trolley breaks down,
0:41:13 > 0:41:15you know a railway is in trouble.
0:41:25 > 0:41:27ENGINE STARTS
0:41:42 > 0:41:45- Thank you, Ismael. Thank you, mate. - No problem.
0:41:49 > 0:41:52The next morning, after a night in the local village,
0:41:52 > 0:41:56I returned to the station to catch the train back to Dar es Salaam.
0:41:57 > 0:42:00Many of the passengers have been waiting all night.
0:42:00 > 0:42:03The train was due at 7am precisely,
0:42:03 > 0:42:06but was already four hours late.
0:42:06 > 0:42:10- Sir, are you talking to the station? - No.
0:42:10 > 0:42:13- To the train?- To the control office.
0:42:13 > 0:42:15In Dar es Salaam?
0:42:15 > 0:42:17Do they know where the Rakuba train is?
0:42:17 > 0:42:20- Which one?- Do they know when the train is coming?- Yes, it's coming.
0:42:20 > 0:42:23- Ah.- Half an hour, it'll be there.
0:42:23 > 0:42:26- Half an hour?- Yes.
0:42:26 > 0:42:28Why was it late?
0:42:28 > 0:42:30- Yes.- Why?
0:42:31 > 0:42:35- It was an accident.- An accident.- Yes.
0:42:35 > 0:42:36Goods train.
0:42:45 > 0:42:47Ismael, thank you so much for everything.
0:42:47 > 0:42:50You've looked after me. I'll always remember our day.
0:42:50 > 0:42:52It was good.
0:42:55 > 0:42:58Bye-bye, Ismael!
0:43:01 > 0:43:04I'm back. And I'm back with the first-class girls.
0:43:10 > 0:43:13There was another delay. You were delayed four hours?
0:43:13 > 0:43:15Four hours, yes.
0:43:15 > 0:43:18- Is that a new wig?- Yeah.- Yeah.
0:43:20 > 0:43:23Ah, new extensions. They look good.
0:43:23 > 0:43:25But that's your natural?
0:43:27 > 0:43:29- Natural looks beautiful.- Thank you.
0:43:29 > 0:43:31You must be so tired at the end of these journeys.
0:43:34 > 0:43:35And you never get time to rest?
0:43:39 > 0:43:43But because we're late, you come back tomorrow.
0:43:43 > 0:43:46So, you have one night to rest.
0:43:46 > 0:43:50When you're in Dar es Salaam, do you stay in the Tazara compound?
0:43:53 > 0:43:57- You sleep in the train?- Yeah. - So tonight, you'll sleep here?- Yeah.
0:43:59 > 0:44:01As we came back into Dar es Salaam station,
0:44:01 > 0:44:04I realised no Tazara journey would be complete
0:44:04 > 0:44:07without a delay or a breakdown.
0:44:14 > 0:44:18It seemed the entire network was in meltdown.
0:44:18 > 0:44:241,000 miles of railway track, and only a single goods train was running that day.
0:44:24 > 0:44:30After a long delay, at least my appointment had arrived with the managing director, Mr Chipewo.
0:44:30 > 0:44:32- Hello, sir.- How are you?
0:44:32 > 0:44:34I'm very well.
0:44:34 > 0:44:37- Sorry, I know you're very busy. - Good to see you.- Hello.
0:44:37 > 0:44:39- Thank you.- Nice to see you. - Please sit down.
0:44:39 > 0:44:44I read in some reports at the end of 2008, that Tazara was bankrupt?
0:44:44 > 0:44:47Yes. As a matter of fact, there was no money in the bank.
0:44:47 > 0:44:52And the shareholders, who are the two governments, weren't able to chip in any amount of money.
0:44:52 > 0:44:56There was no money to buy fuel to run the trains.
0:44:56 > 0:45:01And the worst is, workers weren't paid their wages for three months.
0:45:01 > 0:45:04Coming into that situation,
0:45:04 > 0:45:06where do you start?
0:45:06 > 0:45:08What was your strategy?
0:45:08 > 0:45:12Or even if you have a strategy, if you've no money?
0:45:12 > 0:45:18I said, I'm looking for a customer with cash who will give me money, and I'll carry his train.
0:45:18 > 0:45:23And I found one that had sold some sulphur in the port.
0:45:23 > 0:45:26He paid, right on the spot, 150,000.
0:45:26 > 0:45:27That's where I started.
0:45:27 > 0:45:29That was the seed money.
0:45:29 > 0:45:32And then the trains started moving.
0:45:32 > 0:45:35I was moving the trains that were stranded, and at the same time
0:45:35 > 0:45:39collecting the money from the customers that were able to pay cash.
0:45:39 > 0:45:42- So, Tazara Railways had come to a standstill?- Yes.
0:45:42 > 0:45:44- So you kick-started it.- Yes.
0:45:44 > 0:45:47But that's not a long-term strategy.
0:45:47 > 0:45:49You got it running...
0:45:49 > 0:45:54In November, I conducted a workshop in strategic management,
0:45:54 > 0:45:58so we could have a new vision.
0:45:58 > 0:46:02Also, have a mission, and work out strategies to attain that vision.
0:46:02 > 0:46:05What's the new vision of Tazara?
0:46:05 > 0:46:09- The new vision is that we become the best run railway in Africa.- OK.
0:46:13 > 0:46:18Sadly, Mr Chipewo never got the chance to put his vision into practice.
0:46:20 > 0:46:23A few weeks later he lost his job.
0:46:28 > 0:46:31And just then, I saw it flash before my eyes.
0:46:31 > 0:46:34The fabled track-tamping maintenance machine.
0:46:37 > 0:46:40It's the only one in Tanzania.
0:46:40 > 0:46:45- There's only one?- Yeah, we had two, but one is in Zambia.
0:46:45 > 0:46:48And you had two before in Tanzania, but one is broken?
0:46:48 > 0:46:51- One is broken, yeah. - Do you like football?
0:46:51 > 0:46:53- Yeah, I do like it. - Because the World Cup...
0:46:53 > 0:46:56I like, and I'm a fan of Manchester United.
0:46:56 > 0:46:58Oh, well I'll stop filming!
0:46:58 > 0:47:00- I'm a fan of Arsenal.- Arsenal!
0:47:00 > 0:47:02Do you want to change your mind?
0:47:02 > 0:47:04HE LAUGHS
0:47:04 > 0:47:07- Stop signals.- Yeah.
0:47:11 > 0:47:13He didn't stop.
0:47:17 > 0:47:21No spare parts, no fuel, and now, no MD.
0:47:21 > 0:47:24There was only one question left to ask.
0:47:24 > 0:47:26Had all the money gone too?
0:47:26 > 0:47:29- I'm from BBC.- Oh, BBC?
0:47:29 > 0:47:31- What's your name?- My name is Sean. - Sean.
0:47:31 > 0:47:33Are you both working for Tazara?
0:47:33 > 0:47:35I used to work here.
0:47:35 > 0:47:37I have already retired.
0:47:37 > 0:47:40So, you worked here for how many years?
0:47:40 > 0:47:44Since...2007.
0:47:44 > 0:47:47I retired in July, 2007.
0:47:47 > 0:47:48When did you start?
0:47:48 > 0:47:521989.
0:47:53 > 0:47:54How are you?
0:47:54 > 0:47:57- How are you? - Fine.- Are you feeling better?
0:47:57 > 0:47:59A little better.
0:47:59 > 0:48:01What was wrong with you? You had a fever?
0:48:01 > 0:48:05Just a little fever. I think, maybe some inflammation.
0:48:05 > 0:48:08- I'd a slight throat...- Oh.
0:48:08 > 0:48:11I met Mr Chang. He said, maybe he'll talk to me on camera,
0:48:11 > 0:48:14- because we have such lovely conversations off camera.- Oh.
0:48:14 > 0:48:16- He said, MAYBE he'll talk to me.- OK.
0:48:16 > 0:48:19So, hopefully. All the best.
0:48:19 > 0:48:21- See you soon.- See you soon.
0:48:24 > 0:48:27I've been trying to talk to the Chinese experts
0:48:27 > 0:48:31since I've been here, but they don't like to be on camera.
0:48:31 > 0:48:36- Not on camera?- No. Whenever I try talking to him, they don't like it.
0:48:36 > 0:48:40Maybe the questions are very difficult, they don't want to speak on behalf of their country.
0:48:40 > 0:48:42Of their country? Yeah.
0:48:42 > 0:48:46- Maybe that's their reason. - But this is freedom railway.
0:48:46 > 0:48:48We should all be free to talk!
0:48:50 > 0:48:54Good luck. Are you going to ask them to pay your pension?
0:48:54 > 0:48:56HE LAUGHS
0:48:58 > 0:49:00- He wants money?- Yeah.
0:49:09 > 0:49:12- Am I ready? Can I go in? - Yeah, go in.
0:49:15 > 0:49:17Have they agreed to pay your pension?
0:49:17 > 0:49:19- No, no, no.- No?
0:49:19 > 0:49:21No, no, no. They've no money.
0:49:21 > 0:49:24No money? So you haven't got your pension?
0:49:24 > 0:49:28- Not yet, not yet.- OK.
0:49:28 > 0:49:31- Thank you.- Thank you.
0:49:31 > 0:49:34Let's see if the head of finance, Sarah, is here.
0:49:34 > 0:49:35HE KNOCKS
0:49:39 > 0:49:43- Hello, Sarah. - Have you met my boss, my friend?
0:49:43 > 0:49:45Ah, no. I thought you were the boss.
0:49:45 > 0:49:48No, I have a boss.
0:49:48 > 0:49:51- What, there's someone more important than you?- Hello...
0:49:51 > 0:49:53It can't be possible.
0:49:54 > 0:49:58What's the name of the new director, the managing director?
0:49:58 > 0:50:00Mr Aka.
0:50:00 > 0:50:02- It's what?- Aka...
0:50:02 > 0:50:04Akashambatwa Mbikusita.
0:50:04 > 0:50:06Wow, have you met him?
0:50:06 > 0:50:08Yes, I met him this morning.
0:50:08 > 0:50:10Did you say goodbye to Mr Chipewo?
0:50:14 > 0:50:19By the way, Sarah, are you going to tell me everything about the finance?
0:50:19 > 0:50:23I will, once I'm given the go-ahead, definitely.
0:50:23 > 0:50:26Do you have the money to pay for the fuel for my train?
0:50:26 > 0:50:29THEY LAUGH
0:50:29 > 0:50:32- You're really asking!- Well, I know.
0:50:32 > 0:50:36I was in the control... I was in the control room yesterday,
0:50:36 > 0:50:41and the trains were stopped in Mbeya, because there was no fuel.
0:50:41 > 0:50:44- They didn't have the money to pay for the fuel.- Who said that?
0:50:44 > 0:50:46I don't know who said that.
0:50:54 > 0:50:59There was no hiding the truth, even from me. Tazara was flat broke.
0:51:01 > 0:51:03The Chinese have now had to step in
0:51:03 > 0:51:06and rescue the financially crippled railway from total collapse,
0:51:06 > 0:51:11with a new loan of 39 million.
0:51:11 > 0:51:14What about South Africa? Would you like to go to the World Cup?
0:51:14 > 0:51:16Ah, no, no.
0:51:16 > 0:51:20I have no fare. Because I know from here to South Africa,
0:51:20 > 0:51:26- it's a lot of money, I mean by paying a fare.- Yeah.- Yeah.
0:51:26 > 0:51:28So, you'll watch the World Cup on television?
0:51:28 > 0:51:30Yes, I just watch it on television.
0:51:30 > 0:51:33If England win, I'll be very happy.
0:51:33 > 0:51:36- Me too!- Yeah, yeah.
0:51:36 > 0:51:38Red means stop!
0:51:39 > 0:51:41Now, this is shunting work...
0:51:44 > 0:51:46Ah, you see.
0:51:53 > 0:51:56It was time for me to visit Zambia's copper belt.
0:51:56 > 0:51:58But as I walked out of head office,
0:51:58 > 0:52:01I thought I'd caught my first ever glimpse
0:52:01 > 0:52:04of the elusive Chinese Expert Number One, Mr Meow.
0:52:04 > 0:52:08Hello, sir. Are you not Mr Meow?
0:52:08 > 0:52:10No.
0:52:10 > 0:52:14- My name is Chanza.- My name is Sean.
0:52:14 > 0:52:15How are you? Nice to meet you.
0:52:15 > 0:52:18I'm making a film about Tazara.
0:52:18 > 0:52:20Tazara? OK!
0:52:20 > 0:52:24- I was filming October, November... - Hmm.
0:52:24 > 0:52:25..at Tazara.
0:52:28 > 0:52:30Here's our leader, Mr Meow.
0:52:32 > 0:52:35Hello, sir.
0:52:35 > 0:52:36- How are you?- Fine.
0:52:41 > 0:52:44I've been filming...
0:52:46 > 0:52:48He's looking at me like...
0:52:48 > 0:52:53- Tell him I'm sorry.- If you want to talk with him, you should ask...
0:52:53 > 0:52:54Economic?
0:52:54 > 0:52:55The ambassador?
0:52:55 > 0:52:57- Economic officer.- Ah, OK.
0:52:57 > 0:52:59He's our leader of...
0:53:02 > 0:53:03..of Chinese credit here.
0:53:03 > 0:53:05OK. Bye-bye.
0:53:05 > 0:53:08- No problem!- Yeah, no problem.
0:53:08 > 0:53:10- I like BBC.- Yeah?
0:53:10 > 0:53:13- Very much. - Will the Chinese government...
0:53:13 > 0:53:14I'll ask permission.
0:53:14 > 0:53:18- I don't want to cause trouble. - Today, I'm not so comfortable.
0:53:18 > 0:53:20- I have more fever.- You have fever?
0:53:20 > 0:53:22- Yeah, yeah.- I'm so sorry.
0:53:22 > 0:53:25Bye-bye. Say sorry to Mr Meow.
0:53:25 > 0:53:27- Bye-bye.- Bye-bye.
0:53:27 > 0:53:31The Chinese experts never did explain to me what they were really doing there.
0:53:31 > 0:53:37I later discovered a decision about Tazara's future had already been made in Beijing.
0:53:42 > 0:53:47In the car to Zambia's copper belt, China's growing presence in the area became clear.
0:53:54 > 0:53:56And then, the news was announced,
0:53:56 > 0:54:01the exclusive concession to operate Tazara would be handed over to a Chinese-owned railway company.
0:54:01 > 0:54:06Africa's Freedom Railway was about to become Chinese.
0:54:08 > 0:54:11No-one at Tazara had been willing to tell me the truth about the Chinese,
0:54:11 > 0:54:15but an accountant I met on the side of the road, who works for one
0:54:15 > 0:54:20of the major mining companies, was clear about their intentions.
0:54:20 > 0:54:23You see these guys?
0:54:23 > 0:54:27They need a living. Do you know what he's carrying?
0:54:27 > 0:54:32- He's carrying copper from this slag. - The slag heap?
0:54:32 > 0:54:37This slag copper. He wants to sell so that he can feed his family.
0:54:37 > 0:54:41This is a country which has got a lot of natural resources,
0:54:41 > 0:54:44which we're supposed to use to benefit ourselves.
0:54:44 > 0:54:49The country's natural resources are the sovereign of these people.
0:54:49 > 0:54:52But what are we getting out of our natural resources? Nothing.
0:54:52 > 0:54:56Who is making the money? Because there's money all round us.
0:54:56 > 0:54:59- That's right. - There's a mountain of money here.
0:54:59 > 0:55:02The so-called investors, these are the guys who are making money.
0:55:02 > 0:55:04Not Zambians at all.
0:55:04 > 0:55:08The President of China came to Africa late last year,
0:55:08 > 0:55:12and was talking about 10 billion of investment in the next few years.
0:55:12 > 0:55:14To me it's not investment.
0:55:14 > 0:55:18They're actually taking our own resources. OK?
0:55:18 > 0:55:21If they're investing in our country,
0:55:21 > 0:55:24they must have a big share in the social responsibility.
0:55:24 > 0:55:30Some of these investors who have come, they're sort of like running the country. Why?
0:55:30 > 0:55:33Because they've corrupted the governments in Africa.
0:55:33 > 0:55:39- Right.- OK? They have more say that the native...Africans.
0:55:39 > 0:55:42- And the elected leaders?- Yes.
0:55:53 > 0:55:57African dreams of independence have failed to materialise.
0:55:57 > 0:56:00They're now increasingly reliant upon the Chinese.
0:56:02 > 0:56:06THEY SING
0:56:09 > 0:56:14The fact that Tazara has never come to a standstill is because of the people who work on the railway.
0:56:14 > 0:56:19Somehow, against all the odds, they have always managed to keep the trains moving.
0:56:59 > 0:57:05Cynthia invited me back to her house, where she had a surprise waiting for me.
0:57:05 > 0:57:09It's lovely to meet you! You're the grandmother of Cynthia?
0:57:09 > 0:57:11- Yes.- My name Sean.
0:57:11 > 0:57:15- This one is my baby, this is my baby!- No!
0:57:15 > 0:57:17- This one.- Hello!
0:57:17 > 0:57:20Hello, how are you? Nice to meet you.
0:57:21 > 0:57:25- What's her name?- Karen.- Karen.
0:57:25 > 0:57:27I didn't know you had a daughter.
0:57:27 > 0:57:29Oh, I have.
0:57:29 > 0:57:31She's lovely.
0:57:31 > 0:57:34I had her when I was at school, Grade nine.
0:57:34 > 0:57:38I was...16.
0:57:38 > 0:57:4216? Do you miss her when you're on the train? Yeah, I miss her.
0:57:42 > 0:57:44- Now, I'm fighting for her.- Yeah.
0:57:52 > 0:57:57Cynthia is still fighting, and next year she hopes to get her daughter into school.
0:57:58 > 0:58:02The Chinese are doing what every foreign investor has always done in Africa.
0:58:02 > 0:58:07My most lasting impression is how the people I met have never lost hope,
0:58:07 > 0:58:12and still struggle to achieve their dream of providing for their families.
0:58:23 > 0:58:29In June, Tazara is lying on special trains for the World Cup in South Africa.
0:58:29 > 0:58:31Let's just hope they get there on time!
0:58:50 > 0:58:53Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:58:53 > 0:58:56E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk