In Search of Sunshine

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0:00:02 > 0:00:06Scotland may not be renowned for its blue skies and warm weather -

0:00:06 > 0:00:12but there was a time when holiday makers flocked to Scottish beaches in search of sunshine.

0:00:14 > 0:00:16Long before the era of cheap flights

0:00:16 > 0:00:18and package holidays to the Costa del Sunburn,

0:00:18 > 0:00:22most Scots spent their summers at the Scottish seaside.

0:00:22 > 0:00:27Here, simple pleasures like paddling were the order of the day,

0:00:27 > 0:00:29and all along the east coast,

0:00:29 > 0:00:31hugely popular resorts developed

0:00:31 > 0:00:35where each boasted the finest sands or the hottest weather.

0:00:35 > 0:00:37At least, that's what they claimed.

0:00:40 > 0:00:42In this series,

0:00:42 > 0:00:47I'm retracing the routes taken by some of the early tourists to Scotland.

0:00:47 > 0:00:52From as early as 1820, publishers began producing tourist guide books

0:00:52 > 0:00:56and Black's Picturesque Guide was one of the first.

0:00:58 > 0:01:03A copy of this wonderful Victorian volume has been in my family for generations.

0:01:03 > 0:01:07It was always kept in my father's car when we went on holiday.

0:01:07 > 0:01:14Now, I'm letting its pages guide me again on my six Grand Tours of Scotland.

0:01:14 > 0:01:17On the road, I'll also be dipping into the notes and jottings

0:01:17 > 0:01:22of some early travellers to hear about their experiences.

0:01:22 > 0:01:26This time, I'm looking for the sunniest place in Scotland.

0:01:26 > 0:01:32And if the guide books are to be believed, it's to be found here on the east coast.

0:01:46 > 0:01:52The last journey of my Grand Tour of Scotland takes me from the shores

0:01:52 > 0:01:57of the Firth of Tay zigzagging along the east coast to Aberdeen.

0:02:01 > 0:02:05To capture the holiday spirit, and to chase the sun,

0:02:05 > 0:02:09I've chosen a conveyance to put me in the mood - a Morris Minor.

0:02:09 > 0:02:12A car that sums up the style of an era -

0:02:12 > 0:02:16when modern holiday tastes overtook the more sedate pleasures

0:02:16 > 0:02:20suggested by Black's old guide book.

0:02:21 > 0:02:22Back in Victorian times,

0:02:22 > 0:02:29the very last thing a tourist would have expected from a visit to Scotland was sunshine.

0:02:29 > 0:02:32Rugged scenery, ruined castles, yes.

0:02:32 > 0:02:34Challenging weather, well, definitely.

0:02:34 > 0:02:37A dip in the briny for the good of your health?

0:02:37 > 0:02:41Well, possibly - but only if you were suitably attired.

0:02:41 > 0:02:44But no-one in Black's day would have ever considered

0:02:44 > 0:02:48exposing their naked flesh to the sun.

0:02:49 > 0:02:52So to find out how these more modest pleasure-seekers

0:02:52 > 0:02:54spent their time at the seaside,

0:02:54 > 0:02:57I've come here to Carnoustie.

0:02:59 > 0:03:03Today, this town is most famous for its golf course -

0:03:03 > 0:03:07but back in Black's day, the beach front was its main attraction

0:03:07 > 0:03:12and my guide book describes it as an up-and-coming resort.

0:03:12 > 0:03:16"Carnoustie is a rising watering place of about a thousand

0:03:16 > 0:03:19"inhabitants situated on the shore".

0:03:19 > 0:03:22This is where people came for a break

0:03:22 > 0:03:27from the harsh routine of work in the factories and jute mills of Dundee.

0:03:27 > 0:03:29A place to recharge the batteries.

0:03:29 > 0:03:32And why not?

0:03:32 > 0:03:39To find out what Carnoustie's star attractions were, I'm meeting local historian Fiona Scharlau.

0:03:42 > 0:03:45Fiona, what kind of activities were available to holiday-makers

0:03:45 > 0:03:47coming to Carnoustie in the old days?

0:03:47 > 0:03:49Oh, there was a great deal.

0:03:49 > 0:03:54If you, on any given day of July and August, looked out on the beach behind us,

0:03:54 > 0:03:57you would see the place absolutely black with visitors

0:03:57 > 0:04:01just sitting on the beach just enjoying the sand,

0:04:01 > 0:04:07having picnics, using the bathing machines to modestly change into their swimsuits to go swimming.

0:04:07 > 0:04:10Just traditional summer seaside activities.

0:04:10 > 0:04:15In particular, they would enjoy the open-air, al fresco Pierrot shows as well.

0:04:15 > 0:04:20- A Pierrot show. What's that? - Pierrot is an entertainer. The style they adopted

0:04:20 > 0:04:24was to dress up in the traditional Italian Commedia dell'Arte Pierrot outfit.

0:04:24 > 0:04:28The big, white clown outfits and the big ruffs.

0:04:28 > 0:04:33In effect, they were bringing the music hall out of the music hall and on to beach fronts,

0:04:33 > 0:04:39in very makeshift stages and there'd be two or three shows a day

0:04:39 > 0:04:43and it would be full of comic sketches, sing-along songs

0:04:43 > 0:04:46and turns from the good singers that they would have along with them.

0:04:46 > 0:04:49So there's something here for everybody in the family, really.

0:04:49 > 0:04:53They were incredibly popular. People would flock to see them

0:04:53 > 0:04:58and the newspapers would follow their exploits for the rest of the year.

0:04:58 > 0:05:00They were stars in the borough.

0:05:01 > 0:05:06- Pierrots are a thing of the past and what happened to that tradition? - Yes, they are.

0:05:06 > 0:05:11- Why did it disappear? - I think it's just tastes change. Tastes change all the time.

0:05:11 > 0:05:13The music hall that they came from, Vaudeville,

0:05:13 > 0:05:18the tradition that they came from started to become less popular in the 1920s

0:05:18 > 0:05:24and many of the Vaudeville acts and musical hall acts were struggling to really make a living.

0:05:24 > 0:05:27People preferred to go to dances, apparently,

0:05:27 > 0:05:33and the cinema, by this time, was really beginning to take hold.

0:05:33 > 0:05:35It's just that tastes changed.

0:05:38 > 0:05:42And one of the biggest changes was happening on the beach itself.

0:05:42 > 0:05:47Victorian values and ideas about modesty was seen as out-dated.

0:05:47 > 0:05:51And in the 1920s and '30s, a new morality emerged.

0:05:51 > 0:05:56Beaches like this one in Carnoustie saw Scottish holiday-makers

0:05:56 > 0:05:59doing something that would have been inconceivable in Black's day.

0:05:59 > 0:06:04People in scanty swimming costumes, sunbathing! Imagine!

0:06:08 > 0:06:13Scottish resorts competed with each other to convince holiday-makers

0:06:13 > 0:06:18that their beaches were the best, their sea, the warmest and their sun, the sunniest.

0:06:18 > 0:06:22Posters were produced and catchphrases coined.

0:06:22 > 0:06:25"Carnoustie for health and happiness!",

0:06:25 > 0:06:28"Girvan - the Atlantic resort",

0:06:28 > 0:06:30"Arbroath for sunshine",

0:06:30 > 0:06:36and even Campbelltown, the, um, peninsular resort?

0:06:36 > 0:06:42To find out how this craze for selling Scotland's seaside towns came about,

0:06:42 > 0:06:44I'm giving a lift to Professor John Gold...

0:06:44 > 0:06:48Hello. Good to see you.

0:06:48 > 0:06:50'..who's an expert on tourism.'

0:06:50 > 0:06:54John, there's a history for this kind of sloganising, is there not?

0:06:54 > 0:06:57There is. Towns were growing.

0:06:57 > 0:07:00It wasn't clear who was going to do better than anywhere else

0:07:00 > 0:07:06so they tried to attract people with slogans.

0:07:06 > 0:07:10The railways started to develop their lines and their networks more in Scotland.

0:07:10 > 0:07:14You had very fine posters.

0:07:14 > 0:07:16They've got fabulous posters. I've seen them.

0:07:16 > 0:07:21They hired good artists to design them. They were high-quality colour.

0:07:21 > 0:07:25So it was a splash of colour, a splash of something exotic

0:07:25 > 0:07:31and you could hop on a train and go somewhere exotic like Carnoustie or Arbroath

0:07:31 > 0:07:34or Montrose and they all came up with a catchphrase.

0:07:34 > 0:07:37Broughty Ferry called itself, "The Brighton of Scotland"

0:07:37 > 0:07:40and Nairn called itself, "The Brighton of the North".

0:07:40 > 0:07:45- The same claim.- That's right. Well, you couldn't copyright these slogans

0:07:45 > 0:07:49so once one place had them, anywhere could have them.

0:07:49 > 0:07:52If you called yourself, "The Biarritz of the North",

0:07:52 > 0:07:54someone else might call themselves the same thing.

0:07:54 > 0:07:58A soon as they saw it, they could call themselves that immediately.

0:07:58 > 0:08:00- Or, "The Biarritz of the wee bit further North."- Yes.

0:08:00 > 0:08:06It was making sure you weren't at a serious disadvantage with your competitors.

0:08:06 > 0:08:10So if the competitors were doing it, you felt you had to do it.

0:08:14 > 0:08:20Do you think sunshine ever featured as a significant selling point for a holiday in Scotland?

0:08:20 > 0:08:24Absolutely, it did. It doesn't have to be that accurate.

0:08:24 > 0:08:27You're trying to sell an image to people.

0:08:32 > 0:08:36These campaigns certainly seemed to work and the railways

0:08:36 > 0:08:41carried huge numbers of holiday-makers in search of the sun.

0:08:41 > 0:08:44The next stop on my Grand Tour is Brechin,

0:08:44 > 0:08:48where I'm going to hop aboard the Sunshine Express.

0:08:50 > 0:08:54This is Brechin station. Originally closed in the 1960s,

0:08:54 > 0:08:58it was reopened by a group of railway enthusiasts

0:08:58 > 0:09:02who run trains on four miles of track they proudly call

0:09:02 > 0:09:04the "Caledonian Railway".

0:09:06 > 0:09:08- Good morning. - Oh, good morning, sir.

0:09:08 > 0:09:13- Could I have a single to Duns, please? - Yes, that will be one shilling.

0:09:13 > 0:09:15Thank you.

0:09:15 > 0:09:17HISSING STEAM

0:09:17 > 0:09:21Just the hiss of steam and a waft of coal smoke in the air

0:09:21 > 0:09:24is enough to put anyone in the holiday mood.

0:09:24 > 0:09:29I'm about to do something I only ever dreamed of doing as a child.

0:09:29 > 0:09:33And that's to ride on the footplate there and back again.

0:09:46 > 0:09:52This is how tens of thousands of people would have started their holidays.

0:09:52 > 0:09:56Travelling from the towns and cities down to the coast.

0:09:56 > 0:09:59And it's a real thrill to be riding up front.

0:10:01 > 0:10:03TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS

0:10:12 > 0:10:13These four miles of track

0:10:13 > 0:10:19are all that remain of a rail network that once connected the whole of the east coast.

0:10:20 > 0:10:24Today, this is the end of the line.

0:10:24 > 0:10:26Bridge of Dun.

0:10:29 > 0:10:33The great claim to fame of this little station in the middle of nowhere,

0:10:33 > 0:10:35is its Royal connections.

0:10:35 > 0:10:39Back in the days when this line was connected to the national rail network,

0:10:39 > 0:10:45the Royal train carrying Queen Victoria would spend the night here.

0:10:47 > 0:10:52Apparently, the Royal personage didn't feel safe sleeping aboard a moving train -

0:10:52 > 0:10:57so to break the journey, the train would pull into a siding just beyond the platform

0:10:57 > 0:11:03so she could get some shut-eye before continuing on her Royal way to Balmoral.

0:11:03 > 0:11:09To screen the Queen from prying eyes, a line of trees were planted

0:11:09 > 0:11:11and they're still here!

0:11:11 > 0:11:14A living link to the golden age of Victorian travel.

0:11:20 > 0:11:24Originally, the line I've been travelling on would have gone

0:11:24 > 0:11:28all the way to the sea and if you were lucky, perhaps even the sun.

0:11:30 > 0:11:34I'm going to have to get back in the car to head for the coast

0:11:34 > 0:11:36and my next destination -

0:11:36 > 0:11:37Montrose.

0:11:37 > 0:11:40And if you believe what you read,

0:11:40 > 0:11:45this is the real sunshine capital of the east coast.

0:11:45 > 0:11:50This attractive brochure from the 1950s suggests several things to me.

0:11:50 > 0:11:54On the front cover, we've got two lovely ladies basking in glorious sunshine

0:11:54 > 0:11:59as they relax in their swimming costumes on the beach.

0:11:59 > 0:12:01They look really sophisticated.

0:12:01 > 0:12:06Inside, it claims that science has proved beyond all doubt

0:12:06 > 0:12:10that Montrose deserves the sunshine crown.

0:12:10 > 0:12:13Can this still be true, I wonder?

0:12:13 > 0:12:16Or in fact, was it ever true?

0:12:16 > 0:12:21To find out, I'm meeting up with meteorologist Ben Brock on the beach.

0:12:21 > 0:12:23Ben, what's the temperature today?

0:12:23 > 0:12:30- The temperature right now is just 14.5 degrees. - Is that all? That's disappointing.

0:12:30 > 0:12:35And yet, Montrose boasts that it has the sunniest and the warmest weather in Scotland.

0:12:35 > 0:12:39It's a little bit unclear where the sunniest part of Scotland is.

0:12:39 > 0:12:41Scotland is not a particularly sunny part of the world -

0:12:41 > 0:12:46so saying somewhere is sunny for Scotland is not, on a global scale, particularly sunny.

0:12:46 > 0:12:52- During the summer months, Montrose could probably expect 5.5 hours of sunshine per day.- Right.

0:12:52 > 0:12:58This eastern strip of Scotland from Montrose south to Lothian is the sunniest part of Scotland.

0:12:58 > 0:13:02It's legitimate to say they belong to the sunniest strip in Scotland?

0:13:02 > 0:13:08That's right. Compared to most of the rest of Scotland, it's relatively sunny.

0:13:08 > 0:13:12I've got a suspicion that the weather in Scotland has got worse,

0:13:12 > 0:13:18cos it seems a lot worse than I remember as a kid when I was running around swimming in the sea.

0:13:18 > 0:13:21Actually, it's the opposite. According to all the statistics,

0:13:21 > 0:13:25all the weather stations that have been monitoring the weather,

0:13:25 > 0:13:29tell us the weather is better. It's warmer and it's getting sunnier.

0:13:29 > 0:13:31But I wouldn't have believed them? Why not?

0:13:31 > 0:13:33Nobody believes it!

0:13:33 > 0:13:37I think that's because of this effect of the happy memories from childhood.

0:13:37 > 0:13:41You tend to remember those happy, sunny days at the beach, those carefree days.

0:13:41 > 0:13:44You tend to remember less the rainy days

0:13:44 > 0:13:46and in the last ten years,

0:13:46 > 0:13:52the east coast of Scotland has got on average 40 hours more of sunshine per year.

0:13:52 > 0:13:54No. I don't believe that! I've not noticed it.

0:13:54 > 0:13:57I think I must have been on holiday when that happened!

0:13:59 > 0:14:0540 hours a year might only amount to an average of about six minutes extra sunshine a day.

0:14:05 > 0:14:07But every little helps.

0:14:08 > 0:14:11As I head north I begin to feel a bit peckish -

0:14:11 > 0:14:16and what better way to enjoy the sunshine than a picnic.

0:14:16 > 0:14:18Ah! The smell of a real bakery.

0:14:18 > 0:14:21'So I'm stopping off to pick up an east coast delicacy.'

0:14:21 > 0:14:24- Can I have a bridie, please? - Yes, you could.

0:14:24 > 0:14:28Cos they are really quite unique. Very special, I think.

0:14:28 > 0:14:33- Yeah.- Look at that. It's absolutely magnificent, isn't it?

0:14:33 > 0:14:34- That's a real work of art.- Yeah.

0:14:34 > 0:14:38- I'll take that with me for a wee picnic.- Quite right. You enjoy it.

0:14:38 > 0:14:42- Thanks very much.- You're welcome. - Cheers, now.- Cheerio. Bye.- Bye-bye.

0:14:43 > 0:14:46With my lunch safely stashed on the back seat,

0:14:46 > 0:14:52I begin the long climb towards the Cairn O'Mount and its spectacular views.

0:14:54 > 0:14:58Time to put my jalopy through its paces.

0:14:58 > 0:15:02You've got to change gear... This is what hill-climbing is all about.

0:15:04 > 0:15:05Oh, dear.

0:15:07 > 0:15:09Oh, dear.

0:15:09 > 0:15:11And we seem to have stopped.

0:15:11 > 0:15:16This is the place to experience the delights of the open road -

0:15:16 > 0:15:20back when cars were less reliable and roads had more character.

0:15:20 > 0:15:23Drivers enjoyed the challenge of a difficult hill-climb,

0:15:23 > 0:15:27involving hairpin bends and lots of gear changes.

0:15:29 > 0:15:35This is a real challenge, this road. For an old car like this and for an old driver like me.

0:15:43 > 0:15:48According to Motoring In Scotland, a guide published in 1957,

0:15:48 > 0:15:51"Motorists who enjoy sporting hills will find Cairn O'Mount

0:15:51 > 0:15:53"a grand test for both car and driver,

0:15:53 > 0:15:56"while the air and the view obtainable on the summit

0:15:56 > 0:16:02"of this lofty moorland are invigorating and inspiring".

0:16:05 > 0:16:07This is a perfect place to have picnic

0:16:07 > 0:16:11and the views from here go on for ever. Down on the coast is Montrose.

0:16:11 > 0:16:14On the horizon, you can just make out the coast of Fife.

0:16:14 > 0:16:17But I'll be heading north and east to Stonehaven,

0:16:17 > 0:16:21where I have a rendezvous with the sun, I hope.

0:16:21 > 0:16:23But not before I've eaten my bridie.

0:16:25 > 0:16:26Mm!

0:16:26 > 0:16:28Excellent!

0:16:28 > 0:16:35By the 1930s, seaside tourism was booming and everybody wanted in on the act.

0:16:35 > 0:16:40I'm heading for a town that very successfully reinvented itself

0:16:40 > 0:16:45as tourist Mecca, Stonehaven, which incidentally claims

0:16:45 > 0:16:50to be the sunniest place on the east coast! Surprise, surprise.

0:16:51 > 0:16:55Now in Black's day, this was an unremarkable fishing village,

0:16:55 > 0:16:58and my guide book is actually rather unflattering.

0:16:58 > 0:17:00"About the town itself,

0:17:00 > 0:17:04"there is very little to say. It is situated on a fine bay,

0:17:04 > 0:17:08"though the curing of herrings is not always attractive to visitors".

0:17:10 > 0:17:16The smell of kippers might have offended Victorian sensibilities,

0:17:16 > 0:17:19but by the 1930s a phenomenon of the modern age

0:17:19 > 0:17:22had transformed Stonehaven's fortunes and reputation.

0:17:24 > 0:17:27A heated, outdoor swimming pool.

0:17:27 > 0:17:31And it's still here in all its Art Deco glory.

0:17:31 > 0:17:35A survivor from a bygone age, Stonehaven pool continues to attract

0:17:35 > 0:17:40an enthusiastic following eight decades after it was built.

0:17:45 > 0:17:52Outdoor swimming was part of the health and fitness craze that swept Europe during the '20s and '30s.

0:17:52 > 0:17:58The design of these "lidos" as they were often called, reflected the Art Deco fashion of the times.

0:18:02 > 0:18:07Throughout the 1930s, Stonehaven's heated pool attracted

0:18:07 > 0:18:11tens of thousands of bathers and sun-seekers during the holidays.

0:18:12 > 0:18:16I've come to meet Kenny Mackay who learned to swim here as a boy

0:18:16 > 0:18:21and who, now in his 80s, is still a regular visitor to the pool.

0:18:21 > 0:18:24Kenny, when did you first come to the pool?

0:18:24 > 0:18:28I first came when it opened in 1934.

0:18:28 > 0:18:33My granny lived up here, so she took me to the opening of the pool.

0:18:33 > 0:18:36- 1934!- Yes.- And you've been coming here ever since?

0:18:36 > 0:18:39Yes. I've never missed a year. 78 years.

0:18:39 > 0:18:43I come up every year. In fact, for five years, I worked as a lifeguard here.

0:18:43 > 0:18:46So it's been a lifelong relationship, really.

0:18:46 > 0:18:53It has. I won my first Scottish medal in swimming and 10 metre diving in the '40s.

0:18:53 > 0:18:58I've been all round the world winning championships - Canada, America, Japan, Australia.

0:18:58 > 0:19:01Six world championships and 10 world records.

0:19:01 > 0:19:03That's amazing.

0:19:03 > 0:19:07And I won my last Scottish medal in 2008.

0:19:07 > 0:19:10And it all started really because of this pool.

0:19:10 > 0:19:14- Yes. I've done 4,000 miles swimming.- What, in that pool?- Yes.

0:19:14 > 0:19:17Well, Kenny, I think you're a fantastic advertisement

0:19:17 > 0:19:19for the health benefits of swimming.

0:19:19 > 0:19:25Can you paint a picture of what this pool would have been like during its heyday?

0:19:25 > 0:19:28This was the social hub for Stonehaven.

0:19:28 > 0:19:29You had about 2,000 people.

0:19:29 > 0:19:34People used to come for the whole day. They brought picnics.

0:19:34 > 0:19:38Each week they had diving, swimming, competitions, knobbly knees...

0:19:38 > 0:19:42glamorous grannies, Miss Stonehaven which I had to judge.

0:19:42 > 0:19:44- You had to do that?- Yes, yes.

0:19:44 > 0:19:47That was more popular than the knobbly knees contest.

0:19:47 > 0:19:52Well, I judged the Miss Stonehaven but I didn't do the knobbly knees!

0:19:55 > 0:20:00You had midnight bathing here which was always packed from 10 o'clock to 12 o'clock

0:20:00 > 0:20:05and each time I used to do a 15-minute diving display.

0:20:05 > 0:20:08That's a man of grace and poise. Look at that.

0:20:08 > 0:20:12- Yes, but that's the simple dives. - That's the simple dive?!

0:20:12 > 0:20:16I used to start with a double front summersault from the one-metre board

0:20:16 > 0:20:20and I finished up with a handstand dive off the top.

0:20:20 > 0:20:27The finale at the midnight bathing was I stood up on the six-metre board.

0:20:27 > 0:20:34I got my friends to pour petrol on the pool, set it alight, and I dived into it.

0:20:34 > 0:20:38- That must have been quite a spectacular sight! - It was hair raising.

0:20:38 > 0:20:41- Or singeing, should I say! - Yes, singeing. I was gonna say!

0:20:41 > 0:20:45The hard thing wasn't diving. It was getting out the water from the flames,

0:20:45 > 0:20:49cos sometimes they were a bit over enthusiastic and put too much petrol in.

0:20:49 > 0:20:52But it was quite spectacular.

0:20:52 > 0:20:54- But you're still swimming though. - Oh, yes.

0:20:54 > 0:20:59- Would you be up for taking a dip today? Or is it a bit chilly? - Oh, yes.- You would?- Oh, yes.

0:20:59 > 0:21:05- Would you be prepared to race me then?- Well, how much of start would you like?

0:21:14 > 0:21:16Kenny may be an octogenarian,

0:21:16 > 0:21:22but he effortlessly demonstrates the kind of athleticism that made him a champion.

0:21:25 > 0:21:28I'm rubbish. Oh!

0:21:28 > 0:21:30That was hopeless!

0:21:31 > 0:21:36Losing is no disgrace. This pool is his second home after all -

0:21:36 > 0:21:39but before he has a chance to suggest a diving competition,

0:21:39 > 0:21:46I'm going to dry off and continue my journey north to my final destination.

0:21:46 > 0:21:50Aberdeen - oil capital of Scotland.

0:21:50 > 0:21:54I don't know for sure where the sunniest place is in Scotland,

0:21:54 > 0:22:00but after the Second World War, Aberdeen was undoubtedly the most popular holiday destination

0:22:00 > 0:22:05and like all successful resorts, it had its very own catchphrase -

0:22:05 > 0:22:10"The silver city with the golden sands".

0:22:10 > 0:22:12In order to boost its appeal,

0:22:12 > 0:22:17Aberdeen claimed in this official guide, that it had the best weather.

0:22:17 > 0:22:23Now, listen to this, "The city enjoys a very good climate and an excellent sunshine record.

0:22:23 > 0:22:28"And on a number of occasions, has been recorded as the hottest place in Britain."

0:22:28 > 0:22:32Now, I think I've heard that somewhere else before...

0:22:32 > 0:22:35- NEWSREEL:- 'The clear skies, the brilliant blues

0:22:35 > 0:22:39'and greens of the sea. The sands, the wandering white clouds.

0:22:39 > 0:22:43'Brilliance and colour. The games and the laughter of children

0:22:43 > 0:22:46'and always behind it - the traffic of the deep waters.'

0:22:50 > 0:22:53But it was Aberdeen's night life that made it so popular.

0:22:53 > 0:22:57At one time, the Silver Sand City could boast 15 cinemas

0:22:57 > 0:23:03and nine dance halls and this is the most famous of them all - the Beach Ballroom.

0:23:04 > 0:23:11- NEWSREEL:- 'The music goes around and around and everybody comes together again for pleasure.'

0:23:11 > 0:23:16This is where some of the greatest musical entertainers performed.

0:23:16 > 0:23:22The sound of big bands added a real sense of glamour to a holiday night out.

0:23:22 > 0:23:26And on the dance floor, which boasted the biggest bounce in the country,

0:23:26 > 0:23:30hundreds of young men and women strutted their stuff.

0:23:30 > 0:23:32To find more about this golden age,

0:23:32 > 0:23:36I'm donning bow tie and tails for a lesson

0:23:36 > 0:23:39with champion of the dance floor, May Walker.

0:23:39 > 0:23:43OK, so what you want to learn is a little bit of basics in the waltz.

0:23:43 > 0:23:48- The waltz. Right.- So that you can go and enjoy yourself at dances. The waltz is a very simple dance.

0:23:48 > 0:23:52Left, right, left. Right, left, right, so on and so forth.

0:23:52 > 0:23:54- Sounds simple. - Sounds simple and, um...

0:23:54 > 0:23:57I've got to remember which is left and which is right.

0:23:57 > 0:24:04- Well, I'll poke you side to side. - 'OK, it's time to come clean. I've been dreading this moment.

0:24:04 > 0:24:09'Dancing has never been my forte and May could have a job on her hands.'

0:24:09 > 0:24:12- Is there anything you can do for flat feet?- Yes. Amputation!

0:24:12 > 0:24:16- Right, OK. It's a bit drastic. They're not THAT flat. - No, no, no, no!

0:24:16 > 0:24:18Dancing left, right, close.

0:24:18 > 0:24:22And right, left, close. Then I want you to turn a little.

0:24:22 > 0:24:26'But if anyone can turn me into Fred Astaire, it's May.

0:24:26 > 0:24:28'Now was that left, right or right, left?'

0:24:28 > 0:24:32- OK, so, position. Positions. - Positions.

0:24:32 > 0:24:34'Oh, well. Here goes.'

0:24:34 > 0:24:35- To the left.- Left, OK.

0:24:35 > 0:24:40And one, two, three. Forward, two, three. Right, left, close.

0:24:40 > 0:24:45- Right, left and close. - Right, close and right, left. Close.

0:24:45 > 0:24:49- Left, right, close. - Right, left, closed.

0:24:49 > 0:24:54- We're back to where we started. - You're back to where you started, and that wasn't too bad.

0:24:54 > 0:24:58- Want to try it again? - Yeah, OK. I think so.- OK, head up.

0:24:58 > 0:25:03- Right to the side and close. Left, to me.- Oh, no!- Oh, no!

0:25:03 > 0:25:06Left to the side and close. Right to the side and close.

0:25:06 > 0:25:09- Left, ouch! - Argh! Ooh! I've done it again!

0:25:09 > 0:25:11He's done it again!

0:25:11 > 0:25:13Right to the side and close.

0:25:13 > 0:25:18There's something quite captivating about the elegance of ballroom dancing,

0:25:18 > 0:25:24and May was one of the leading lights when they packed them in here at the Beach Ballroom.

0:25:24 > 0:25:27Tell me what it was like back in the day?

0:25:27 > 0:25:32- Hundreds of people came here.- Mm. - Three, four hundred a night. You know, whatever.

0:25:32 > 0:25:36Usually, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursdays, so on and so forth and it's...

0:25:36 > 0:25:40It's a great way to round off a day, if you've had a day on the beach.

0:25:40 > 0:25:42- Day promenading, day swimming. - That's right.

0:25:42 > 0:25:44Then to come in the evening to a place like this.

0:25:44 > 0:25:48Is this where people would meet one another? Guys and girls?

0:25:48 > 0:25:51Well, this is where you meet to start your romance.

0:25:51 > 0:25:56Hundreds of people came here. People danced round and round and round.

0:25:56 > 0:26:01- NEWSREEL:- 'The young couple, they seem to be enjoying their honeymoon in Aberdeen.'

0:26:01 > 0:26:05- The emphasis was on romance and glamour when you came... - That's right.

0:26:09 > 0:26:14- NEWSREEL:- 'And the sailor's found a friend. It's always possible to find a friend in Aberdeen.'

0:26:14 > 0:26:17Everyone came here. If you were on holidays,

0:26:17 > 0:26:20then your evening entertainment was down to the Beach Ballroom.

0:26:33 > 0:26:36What better way to end a day of basking in the sun -

0:26:36 > 0:26:39and if you didn't get the perfect tan on the beach,

0:26:39 > 0:26:43then you might find the perfect partner on the dance floor.

0:26:43 > 0:26:46And right. And left.

0:26:46 > 0:26:49Ah! The romance of it all!

0:27:01 > 0:27:04- Thank you very much, May.- Thank you. - That was splendid!

0:27:04 > 0:27:09I could have danced all night but I've come to the end of the road.

0:27:11 > 0:27:15I've been touring for over six weeks now, travelling the country

0:27:15 > 0:27:19and exploring Scotland's heritage as a tourist destination.

0:27:25 > 0:27:29In the time I've been on the road, Black's has been my constant companion.

0:27:29 > 0:27:34It might be old-fashioned, out-of-date and frankly, falling to pieces,

0:27:34 > 0:27:35but its message is clear.

0:27:35 > 0:27:39Urging me to get out and about and explore more of Scotland

0:27:39 > 0:27:42which is something I couldn't recommend more strongly.

0:27:43 > 0:27:48My journey has taken me from the border with England

0:27:48 > 0:27:51to the whisky islands of the west.

0:27:51 > 0:27:55From the charms of the central Highlands

0:27:55 > 0:27:58to the wilds of the far north.

0:27:58 > 0:28:01I've experienced the highs...

0:28:01 > 0:28:04and the lows...

0:28:04 > 0:28:06of holidaying in Scotland.

0:28:06 > 0:28:11This old guide book has made me appreciate what a fantastic country this is

0:28:11 > 0:28:14and I, for one, want to make the most of it.

0:28:40 > 0:28:43Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:43 > 0:28:46E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk