0:00:04 > 0:00:0830 miles from mainland Scotland, there's a chain of low-lying islands
0:00:08 > 0:00:11that face the full might of the Atlantic Ocean.
0:00:12 > 0:00:18This really feels like a frontier - a battleground between the elements,
0:00:18 > 0:00:23the sea and the land, which is seen and felt very dramatically,
0:00:23 > 0:00:29especially in the winter months when tremendous storms lash this coast.
0:00:38 > 0:00:40From most of Scotland,
0:00:40 > 0:00:44the homes and villages of the 4,000 or so folk who live here,
0:00:44 > 0:00:47are hidden below the horizon.
0:00:47 > 0:00:51And most people spend their lives living just a few feet above
0:00:51 > 0:00:54the level of the stormy North Atlantic.
0:00:56 > 0:01:03This is South Uist, and thankfully, today, the sea is relatively calm.
0:01:03 > 0:01:06It's home to about 1,800 people,
0:01:06 > 0:01:10but here, on this beautiful vast, empty stretch of sand,
0:01:10 > 0:01:11you wouldn't know it.
0:01:12 > 0:01:14It's absolutely stunning!
0:01:14 > 0:01:17A place to fill your lungs.
0:01:17 > 0:01:18And it's almost deserted.
0:01:19 > 0:01:24There may not be many people here but there is a lot of water,
0:01:24 > 0:01:27not just in the sea surrounding the island,
0:01:27 > 0:01:29but also in the spectacular patchwork
0:01:29 > 0:01:31of fresh water lochs and pools
0:01:31 > 0:01:34that pockmark the landscape.
0:01:34 > 0:01:36When the first, mostly wealthy, visitors
0:01:36 > 0:01:38made their way to the Hebrides
0:01:38 > 0:01:43the Uists quickly established a reputation as the best place
0:01:43 > 0:01:45for one particular pursuit.
0:01:48 > 0:01:52FILM COMMENTARY: 'The fishing has always attracted the traveller here.
0:01:52 > 0:01:54'For the Uists seemed to have been designed by an angler,
0:01:54 > 0:01:58'where the fishermen can share out the pools of trout, one to a man.'
0:02:02 > 0:02:06The unique ecology of these unspoilt islands means that they have
0:02:06 > 0:02:09become one of the best angling destinations in the world.
0:02:12 > 0:02:16But you've got to know where and when to cast your line,
0:02:16 > 0:02:19so I've enlisted gamekeeper Rory MacGillivray
0:02:19 > 0:02:23to let me in on some of the local fishing secrets.
0:02:24 > 0:02:27So, the reason we're coming down here, Rory, I suppose,
0:02:27 > 0:02:28is because the tide's out.
0:02:28 > 0:02:30Yeah, we'll come down to the sea pool here,
0:02:30 > 0:02:34it's what's left after the tide goes out.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36And we're gonna fish along the edge there.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40So, as the tide goes down it leaves pools which trap the fish in them.
0:02:40 > 0:02:44- Yeah.- It's like a fish trap.- Yes, that's basically what it is.- Right.
0:02:44 > 0:02:45We'll give it a shot, see what...
0:02:45 > 0:02:48'And it's in these seawater pools that we hope to find our prey -
0:02:48 > 0:02:51'the wild sea trout.'
0:02:52 > 0:02:56'To tempt them, we're using sand eels as bait.'
0:02:56 > 0:03:00So, as you pull through the water, see the sand eel.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03- If I were a sea trout I'd be totally convinced by that. - Well, hopefully.
0:03:03 > 0:03:07Well, let's cast it out and see if we're gonna be lucky.
0:03:07 > 0:03:09'Rory has lived here all his life,
0:03:09 > 0:03:13'and learned how to fish these pools from an early age.'
0:03:15 > 0:03:19When I was brought up, we had a big sea pool down below the house,
0:03:19 > 0:03:21and what we would do is
0:03:21 > 0:03:24- we would go down for flounders. - Uh-huh.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26We would fish, um...
0:03:26 > 0:03:30- By using this technique? - Using this technique.- Uh-huh.- Yeah.
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- MAN ON FILM:- 'A rod, a tin of worms and a good companion.
0:03:35 > 0:03:37'Talk and laughter.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40'If there's a fish at the end of it, so much the better.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43'But there's the sun and the wind and a hill stream,
0:03:43 > 0:03:46'this is the stuff that dreams are made of.'
0:03:49 > 0:03:52Was it entirely legal, this activity that
0:03:52 > 0:03:53- used to go on back in the day? - Ah.
0:03:56 > 0:03:58No, it wasn't.
0:03:58 > 0:03:59THEY LAUGH
0:03:59 > 0:04:02No, I mean the... We weren't allowed to fish in sea pools.
0:04:02 > 0:04:05- We weren't allowed, no. - You weren't allowed to fish in a sea pool like this?
0:04:05 > 0:04:08- No. We cert... We certainly weren't. - Really?
0:04:08 > 0:04:11No. It, um, it, um... You had the gamekeepers.
0:04:11 > 0:04:15- Uh-huh. - You had the river watchers.
0:04:15 > 0:04:18- Uh-huh. - But there was a difference.
0:04:18 > 0:04:19It was one for the pot
0:04:19 > 0:04:23and that was the true sense of the word, it really was one for the pot.
0:04:25 > 0:04:29'In many ways, Rory is the classic poacher turned gamekeeper.
0:04:29 > 0:04:33'Now it's his job to protect the island's resources.'
0:04:33 > 0:04:36- On you go. - I was trying my luck.
0:04:36 > 0:04:40'And his expertise is much sought after by anglers visiting the island.'
0:04:43 > 0:04:45Oh, no. That was really pathetic.
0:04:45 > 0:04:49'And today, angling is more popular than ever.'
0:04:49 > 0:04:52People are getting tired of the reservoirs, restocked...
0:04:52 > 0:04:54- Well, I'm not surprised.- Yeah.
0:04:54 > 0:04:56Here, you're pitting yourself against the real deal.
0:04:56 > 0:04:58- It's a wild fish.- Right.
0:04:58 > 0:05:03And for me, you know, coming and fishing here,
0:05:03 > 0:05:06you can catch a lot of fish in a day,
0:05:06 > 0:05:10but a lot of it depends on how good an angler you actually are.
0:05:10 > 0:05:13'So far, nothing is taking my bait,
0:05:13 > 0:05:19'and after several hours, we're down to our last sand eel.'
0:05:19 > 0:05:21My teeth are beginning to chatter now.
0:05:21 > 0:05:22It's not getting any warmer.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29Come on, little fishy, come to me on my dishy.
0:05:36 > 0:05:40'But just as I'm about to suggest heading to the chippy...'
0:05:40 > 0:05:43- Whoa, whoa, whoa! - You've got a fish? Oh, excellent.
0:05:43 > 0:05:45- I've got a fish.- Yes. Well done.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48- Oh, that's amazing. Look at this! - Agh!
0:05:49 > 0:05:50Urgh, no. No!
0:05:50 > 0:05:54- He lost it! - No! It got away, Rory!
0:05:54 > 0:05:56No, there's a difference - you lost it!
0:05:56 > 0:05:58THEY LAUGH
0:06:00 > 0:06:02It was a huge one as well, wasn't it?
0:06:02 > 0:06:03Did you see the size of it?
0:06:03 > 0:06:06- Oh, yeah, it was... - It was it was a monster.- A monster!
0:06:06 > 0:06:08THEY CONTINUE LAUGHING
0:06:10 > 0:06:12Looks like we're going hungry tonight.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15But it's not just about catching a fish.
0:06:15 > 0:06:18- No.- Is it? When you come to a place like this, it's beautiful.
0:06:18 > 0:06:19It's unique.
0:06:19 > 0:06:23- Yeah, I mean...- And you're part of something bigger.- Yeah.
0:06:29 > 0:06:31Having caught nothing more than a chill,
0:06:31 > 0:06:35I'm heading for my next destination in this chain of islands.
0:06:36 > 0:06:42Benbecula is the only "Ben" in Scotland that isn't a hill.
0:06:42 > 0:06:47Now, in Gaelic, Benbecula actually means the hill between two fords,
0:06:47 > 0:06:50which kinda makes sense, because in the old days,
0:06:50 > 0:06:53in order to get here you had to cross an arm of the sea.
0:06:53 > 0:06:57And the hill itself, well, it's not a "Ben" anything,
0:06:57 > 0:06:59it's called "Rueval" and it's over there.
0:07:07 > 0:07:13It may rise to only 127 metres, but as I make this short climb,
0:07:13 > 0:07:16I begin to see more of the spectacular landscape below.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23From here, you can see for miles around.
0:07:23 > 0:07:27Useful if you happen to be Britain's most wanted man.
0:07:35 > 0:07:37That was the case for Bonny Prince Charlie,
0:07:37 > 0:07:41who spent the summer of 1746 on the run.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46He arrived on Benbecula after his uprising had been
0:07:46 > 0:07:48crushed at the Battle of Culloden.
0:07:50 > 0:07:54To make matters even worse, the Prince had a price on his head -
0:07:54 > 0:07:57an unbelievable £30,000.
0:07:57 > 0:08:01That's the equivalent, in today's money, of 50 million.
0:08:01 > 0:08:04It was a king's ransom, well, a prince's ransom!
0:08:04 > 0:08:05And it was very tempting.
0:08:10 > 0:08:15By the time he reached Benbecula, he was tired, hungry and desperate.
0:08:17 > 0:08:21But the Prince was about to be rescued by a courageous local woman,
0:08:21 > 0:08:23who would risk her life to save him.
0:08:31 > 0:08:36Flora MacDonald has been described as a woman with soft features,
0:08:36 > 0:08:40gentle manners, a kind soul and elegant presence.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45She was just 24 when she met the Prince,
0:08:45 > 0:08:49and an audacious plan was hatched to spirit him away to safety.
0:08:53 > 0:08:57Incredibly, the plan involved the age-old pantomime trick
0:08:57 > 0:09:01of cross-dressing, with the Prince playing the dame.
0:09:01 > 0:09:03Now, slipping into a frock,
0:09:03 > 0:09:06the Bonny Prince became Bonny Betty Burke,
0:09:06 > 0:09:08Flora's devoted maid servant.
0:09:08 > 0:09:14And together, they sailed over the sea to Skye,
0:09:14 > 0:09:18an event immortalised ever since on millions of shortbread tins.
0:09:23 > 0:09:27Prince Charlie escaped to France and lived the life of an exile,
0:09:27 > 0:09:30while Flora MacDonald became a legend.
0:09:33 > 0:09:35FILM NARRATOR: 'A simple mound of stones
0:09:35 > 0:09:38'marks the birthplace of Flora MacDonald.
0:09:38 > 0:09:42'"Her name will be mentioned in history," declared Dr Johnson
0:09:42 > 0:09:46'"and if courage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour".'
0:09:53 > 0:09:57Well, here we are at the summit of Rueval - and I have to
0:09:57 > 0:10:02say that the view certainly repays the effort to get here.
0:10:02 > 0:10:05You can see all the way down the island chain,
0:10:05 > 0:10:09and all around these tiny little lochans that make up Benbecula,
0:10:09 > 0:10:12and these flat lands of North and South Uist.
0:10:14 > 0:10:18This really is a quite remarkable landscape.
0:10:18 > 0:10:22There are thousands of lochans and peaty pools from shore to shore.
0:10:25 > 0:10:27To get to my final destination,
0:10:27 > 0:10:32I'm leaving North Uist and heading for the tiny tidal island of Vallay.
0:10:36 > 0:10:37And to get there,
0:10:37 > 0:10:41I need to make the 2km walk across this spectacular Strand.
0:10:42 > 0:10:45Well, it's certainly one of the most beautiful stretches of sand
0:10:45 > 0:10:48I've ever seen, and had the privilege to walk across.
0:10:49 > 0:10:53'Joining me is local guide, James MacLetchie,
0:10:53 > 0:10:57'who's been making this journey since he was in short trousers.'
0:10:58 > 0:11:01- You grew up here?- Yeah, I grew up just in the village there.
0:11:01 > 0:11:02My mum was the head teacher,
0:11:02 > 0:11:05and every weekend I'd be down here playing on this beach and
0:11:05 > 0:11:08we'd often go over to the island there as well, when the tide was out.
0:11:08 > 0:11:10Fantastic place to play.
0:11:10 > 0:11:14'Remarkably, at one point there were plans afoot that would have
0:11:14 > 0:11:17'totally changed this beautiful landscape.'
0:11:17 > 0:11:20Ah, there was a plan, when I was growing up as a child,
0:11:20 > 0:11:21to block off this area.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23And then they were gonna fill it in with soil
0:11:23 > 0:11:26and make it into a bulb field from what I remember.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29- They were gonna turn it into a Dutch polder?- More or less, yeah.
0:11:31 > 0:11:33This would not have been what it is today.
0:11:33 > 0:11:36This intriguing footage from 1969,
0:11:36 > 0:11:38shows the pilot scheme.
0:11:41 > 0:11:43And what do you think local people felt about the idea
0:11:43 > 0:11:48of the Vallay sands being turned into a vast tulip field?
0:11:48 > 0:11:50At that time, it was probably a very different attitude
0:11:50 > 0:11:51to what we have today,
0:11:51 > 0:11:54with work opportunities and whatnot,
0:11:54 > 0:11:57but I think today would have been totally horrified.
0:11:57 > 0:11:59And as a child, I remember all these, er,
0:11:59 > 0:12:02white and red sticks all over the beach and I used to move them -
0:12:02 > 0:12:03myself and one of my friends,
0:12:03 > 0:12:05we'd move them around. But luckily for us, they...
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- You were saboteurs?- Yes, we were. Yeah.- Bulb saboteurs!
0:12:08 > 0:12:11Yes. We managed to escape being found out.
0:12:13 > 0:12:17Whether Jim's small protest played any part, who can say!
0:12:18 > 0:12:22But the company behind the tulip farm went bust
0:12:22 > 0:12:25leaving this vast expanse of sand unspoilt.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33'Crossing to Vallay, James takes me to another of his childhood haunts,
0:12:33 > 0:12:38'where a fascinating character lived 100 years ago.'
0:12:38 > 0:12:40- And here we are. - Yeah, Vallay Island.
0:12:40 > 0:12:42Vallay! And the ruins.
0:12:42 > 0:12:44Yeah, they're amazing when you can see them.
0:12:44 > 0:12:46They're so dominant.
0:12:46 > 0:12:48And then right up on the left-hand side you can see
0:12:48 > 0:12:52Erskine Beveridge's house, built in 1902-1905.
0:12:52 > 0:12:55Erskine Beveridge was a wealthy industrialist
0:12:55 > 0:12:58with a passion for archaeology.
0:12:58 > 0:13:03He fell in love with this tiny island on the edge of the Atlantic.
0:13:06 > 0:13:07Where did he make his money?
0:13:07 > 0:13:11In the linen manufacturers in Dunfermline, so made quite a big business out of that.
0:13:11 > 0:13:13So when they came out here, they were really just coming to
0:13:13 > 0:13:16look for sporting estates, as was very common in them days.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20And then to find a piece of land like this, with a view like that.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24This is Vallay House, or what's left of it.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27The gaunt shell of the once opulent home
0:13:27 > 0:13:30Beveridge built on his island retreat.
0:13:32 > 0:13:36He took three years to build the house, £8,000 to build it.
0:13:36 > 0:13:39But what's really beautiful about the house is there was lots...
0:13:39 > 0:13:41there were over 365 panes of glass in it,
0:13:41 > 0:13:42and there was little round windows
0:13:42 > 0:13:44that used to have coloured glass in it.
0:13:44 > 0:13:47And on the windows there was the inscription "EB" - Erskine Beveridge.
0:13:47 > 0:13:48- Erskine Beveridge.- Yes.
0:13:48 > 0:13:51Quite an incredible thing to build as well.
0:13:51 > 0:13:54And if you think of the environment that we're in -
0:13:54 > 0:13:56so grand, baronial style property.
0:13:57 > 0:14:03'Here on Vallay, Beveridge found the perfect place to indulge his fascination with the past.'
0:14:04 > 0:14:06He wanted to go out and explore the environment.
0:14:06 > 0:14:08He'd dig down about three foot in the ground and, er,
0:14:08 > 0:14:11he'd find lots of antiquities and take them up to the house.
0:14:11 > 0:14:13He was interested in human habitation here.
0:14:13 > 0:14:14Does it go back a long way?
0:14:14 > 0:14:16Well, it goes back to about 8,000 years,
0:14:16 > 0:14:17so all around this isle itself,
0:14:17 > 0:14:19we can go back right back to the early Iron Age,
0:14:19 > 0:14:20we can go Bronze Age as well.
0:14:20 > 0:14:23He wrote a book called North Uist and he covered most of the island.
0:14:23 > 0:14:27So, a lot of what we know today was actually because of him.
0:14:31 > 0:14:36When Erskine Beveridge died in 1920, the house passed to his son,
0:14:36 > 0:14:39George, who continued to live on Vallay.
0:14:40 > 0:14:45But since his death in 1944, it's lain empty and neglected.
0:14:48 > 0:14:50The house has completely fallen into rack and ruin.
0:14:50 > 0:14:53Can you remember a time when it wasn't quite so dilapidated?
0:14:53 > 0:14:55Well, I remember coming over here in the 1970s.
0:14:55 > 0:14:57All the windows were intact,
0:14:57 > 0:14:59all the staircases were intact, all the rooms.
0:14:59 > 0:15:01- It was amazing place to come. - Really?
0:15:01 > 0:15:04- You used to explore it as wee boy. - Yeah, we did.
0:15:04 > 0:15:07And it was so dark in certain rooms and you'd hear little rats
0:15:07 > 0:15:09running around, pigeons would come and hit you in the face.
0:15:09 > 0:15:13And growing up, a huge adventure for children. Amazing place to play.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16- Uh-huh. After it had been deserted by the owners.- Yeah.
0:15:18 > 0:15:22It's quite sad really it's been left empty and then become desolate.