0:00:04 > 0:00:06For Victorian Britons,
0:00:06 > 0:00:08George Bradshaw was a household name.
0:00:09 > 0:00:11At a time when railways were new,
0:00:11 > 0:00:15Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take the tracks.
0:00:15 > 0:00:19I'm using a Bradshaw's guide to understand how trains
0:00:19 > 0:00:21transformed Britain -
0:00:21 > 0:00:26its landscape, its industry, society and leisure time.
0:00:26 > 0:00:31As I crisscross the country 150 years later, it helps me
0:00:31 > 0:00:33to discover the Britain of today.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59I'm beginning a journey across southern Scotland,
0:00:59 > 0:01:04exploring the people and pastimes that make this country distinctive.
0:01:04 > 0:01:06Long before my Bradshaw's guide,
0:01:06 > 0:01:11this region had produced key creators of the modern world -
0:01:11 > 0:01:15the philosopher David Hume, from Berwickshire,
0:01:15 > 0:01:17the economist Adam Smith, from Kirkcaldy,
0:01:17 > 0:01:21the developer of the steam engine - James Watt, from Greenock.
0:01:21 > 0:01:26No wonder that the Industrial Revolution took root here.
0:01:35 > 0:01:39My journey this week will take me across Scotland from west to east.
0:01:39 > 0:01:41Beginning at the Firth of Clyde,
0:01:41 > 0:01:43I head through the Scottish Lowlands to Glasgow.
0:01:45 > 0:01:48Then north to Stirling and Perth,
0:01:48 > 0:01:51close to where the kings of Scotland were crowned.
0:01:51 > 0:01:52I'll travel on east to Fife
0:01:52 > 0:01:55and the famous university town of St Andrews,
0:01:55 > 0:02:00finally heading south to Scotland's capital, where my journey ends.
0:02:01 > 0:02:05On today's leg, I'll hug the coast up to the North Ayrshire town
0:02:05 > 0:02:10of Kilwinning, before heading to the historic harbour at Troon.
0:02:10 > 0:02:13I'll then make tracks northeast to Kilmarnock,
0:02:13 > 0:02:15before ending my journey in rural Stewarton.
0:02:17 > 0:02:21'On this first part, I get to grips with an ancient sport...'
0:02:23 > 0:02:24Good, and let go.
0:02:26 > 0:02:27HE GIGGLES
0:02:27 > 0:02:31'..learn how being overweight could bring a heavy penalty...'
0:02:31 > 0:02:33The way they worked out the passengers was
0:02:33 > 0:02:37exactly the same way as the goods on it - they were done by weight.
0:02:37 > 0:02:38So you wanted quite a small breakfast
0:02:38 > 0:02:40- before you went down to the train? - Well...
0:02:40 > 0:02:43'..and cap it all off with a touch of tartan.'
0:02:43 > 0:02:45Maybe try that one on for size?
0:02:45 > 0:02:48You'll ne'er look so bonny as in a Bonnet Toun bonnet.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03Bradshaw's tells me that about ten miles out in the sea
0:03:03 > 0:03:06is Ailsa Craig,
0:03:06 > 0:03:12a huge basalt rock 1,100ft high and two miles around.
0:03:12 > 0:03:16I'm getting off the train at Ayr to discover what use is made
0:03:16 > 0:03:19of the craig in this land of ice and granite.
0:03:22 > 0:03:26The wild character of the Scottish coastline shows much evidence
0:03:26 > 0:03:30of a landscape shaped by glaciers and volcanoes.
0:03:30 > 0:03:34And dominating the seascape, this famous rock, which is
0:03:34 > 0:03:37also the source of Scotland's prized curling stones.
0:03:41 > 0:03:45'I'm lucky enough to be visiting the family-owned factory that
0:03:45 > 0:03:49'still makes them. Bill Hunter is the manager.' Hello, Bill.
0:03:49 > 0:03:51- Good to see you. - Good to see you, sir.
0:03:54 > 0:03:58Bill, I've come in search of Ailsa Craig granite. Have I found it?
0:03:58 > 0:04:01You have found it, and this is the one piece of it.
0:04:01 > 0:04:03Ailsa Craig is...
0:04:03 > 0:04:07It's been used now for well over 100 years,
0:04:07 > 0:04:10and it is now proved to be the best granite for making curling stones.
0:04:10 > 0:04:13It's part of the volcano from Arran.
0:04:13 > 0:04:17When the offshoot came out, it cooled down so fast there's
0:04:17 > 0:04:21no chance of quartz to grow, so it's now classified as a microgranite.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24'That means it's a rock that is much more densely packed,
0:04:24 > 0:04:27'containing crystals smaller than grains of rice,
0:04:27 > 0:04:30'and it makes a difference to the stones' resilience.'
0:04:30 > 0:04:34When the two stones hit off each other, they don't shatter.
0:04:34 > 0:04:38If you're working with other granites, they are quartz-rich,
0:04:38 > 0:04:41so when the two stones hit, they will shatter.
0:04:41 > 0:04:43This is the only company in the world
0:04:43 > 0:04:45that actually uses Ailsa Craig granite.
0:04:45 > 0:04:50'Kays of Scotland was founded back in 1851, and every 12 years,
0:04:50 > 0:04:53'it harvests around 2,000 tonnes of granite.
0:04:54 > 0:04:59'The company supplies stones to 55 countries around the world.'
0:04:59 > 0:05:02It doesn't look much like a curling stone at the moment.
0:05:02 > 0:05:04- What do you do to it next?- Come into the factory and we'll show you.
0:05:04 > 0:05:05Thank you.
0:05:08 > 0:05:11'The process begins with a stone-cutting machine,
0:05:11 > 0:05:15'which carves from the granite a shape like a cheese wheel.
0:05:15 > 0:05:16'Then it's on to the grinder,
0:05:16 > 0:05:21'to bring the stone closer to its finished weight of 44 pounds.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24'Finally, it's off to the experienced hands
0:05:24 > 0:05:27'of the polisher, who removes a further ten pounds.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31'This expertise has been carefully passed down the generations
0:05:31 > 0:05:32'of the family.
0:05:32 > 0:05:36'The current owner is Jimmy Wyllie.'
0:05:36 > 0:05:37Hello, Jimmy.
0:05:37 > 0:05:38Hello, Michael.
0:05:41 > 0:05:45That's a little bit smaller than the curling stone I expected to see.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48- What is that?- Yes, this is the miniature gift wheel that we do.
0:05:48 > 0:05:51This is exactly the same material from Ailsa Craig
0:05:51 > 0:05:52- as the large stones.- Beautiful.
0:05:52 > 0:05:55And you're actually part of the family.
0:05:55 > 0:05:57Yes, born and bred, as they say.
0:05:58 > 0:06:02Third generation of my family in the business.
0:06:02 > 0:06:06My grandfather got into the business well over 100 years ago,
0:06:06 > 0:06:09and I think that probably about...
0:06:09 > 0:06:12More than 12 or 13 of the family at the last count
0:06:12 > 0:06:16- are involved, over more than 100 years.- Extraordinary.
0:06:16 > 0:06:18Do you ever do any curling yourself?
0:06:18 > 0:06:21Yes, now that I'm an old man, I decided I'd better take it up
0:06:21 > 0:06:24again, so yes, I've been curling again in recent years.
0:06:24 > 0:06:27- And how's it going?- Er...
0:06:27 > 0:06:29Not as good as I would like.
0:06:29 > 0:06:31Does it take its toll on the joints?
0:06:31 > 0:06:34- Because I'm thinking of having a go myself.- Yes.
0:06:34 > 0:06:38The modern way of delivering the stone involves really quite a bit
0:06:38 > 0:06:41of physical manoeuvring, you might say,
0:06:41 > 0:06:45and maybe you should have a little lubrication before you try.
0:06:45 > 0:06:46MICHAEL LAUGHS
0:06:46 > 0:06:51'Well, ever the willing guinea pig, now's my chance to curl.
0:06:51 > 0:06:54'I feel very lucky to have a Scottish world champion,
0:06:54 > 0:06:56'Sheila Swan, to teach me.'
0:06:56 > 0:06:59- Hello.- Hi, Michael. Nice to see you. - Very good to see you.
0:06:59 > 0:07:01When were the rules of curling established?
0:07:01 > 0:07:03The Royal Caledonian Curling Club,
0:07:03 > 0:07:05the governing body for curling in Scotland,
0:07:05 > 0:07:08was constituted in 1838 and they're generally known as the mother club
0:07:08 > 0:07:12of curling and contributed to the major rules of the game.
0:07:12 > 0:07:14It's fundamentally a Scottish sport, then.
0:07:14 > 0:07:20Yes, the sport originated in Scotland back in the 15th century.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25It's remarkable that this sport was born when the Scots discovered
0:07:25 > 0:07:30the fun that could be had throwing stones onto a frozen river.
0:07:32 > 0:07:35What's been your role in the sport?
0:07:35 > 0:07:37Development manager for the Royal Caledonian Curling Club
0:07:37 > 0:07:40and I'm responsible for adults, disability
0:07:40 > 0:07:43and competitions within the Royal Caledonian Curling Club.
0:07:43 > 0:07:46Her coaching has brought huge success to the Scottish junior team,
0:07:46 > 0:07:51but teaching me is one of her tougher assignments.
0:07:51 > 0:07:55So this is the hack. It's a bit like a starting block in athletics.
0:07:55 > 0:07:59Your gripper foot will go on top of the hack, your toes up on the slope.
0:07:59 > 0:08:01Your slider foot will be parallel to
0:08:01 > 0:08:03but slightly in front of your gripper foot.
0:08:03 > 0:08:06From there you bend at the knees, hips and waist.
0:08:06 > 0:08:10So you hold on to the stabiliser and the stone.
0:08:10 > 0:08:14And you keep your back nice and flat. That is the ready position.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17Steady, you will pull back your stone and your sliding foot
0:08:17 > 0:08:22and then go, your stone moves forward, sliding foot behind.
0:08:22 > 0:08:27Curling resembles bowls, but players slide a stone down a 45-metre
0:08:27 > 0:08:29stretch of ice known as a curling sheet.
0:08:29 > 0:08:33Points go to teams that get more of the stones closer
0:08:33 > 0:08:37to the centre of a target, called the house.
0:08:37 > 0:08:39Bend at the knees, hips and waist.
0:08:39 > 0:08:42Lift your bottom up a little bit. Excellent, that's ready, steady...
0:08:42 > 0:08:44pull back and...go.
0:08:46 > 0:08:47Good. And let go.
0:08:50 > 0:08:52SHE LAUGHS
0:08:52 > 0:08:55That was very good for a first attempt.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58So where does all the brushing come into it?
0:08:58 > 0:09:01OK, sweeping does three things. It keeps the ice clean.
0:09:01 > 0:09:04If a little bit of dirt gets under the stone it will deviate
0:09:04 > 0:09:06from its line quite sharply.
0:09:06 > 0:09:10It makes it go further, not faster, and it also keeps it straighter,
0:09:10 > 0:09:14because curling stones always go in a curve rather than a straight line.
0:09:21 > 0:09:23Sweep, Michael!
0:09:25 > 0:09:28Hard, Michael! Hard! Hard!
0:09:28 > 0:09:29Hard, hard, hard!
0:09:31 > 0:09:34- We're in!- Well swept!- House!
0:09:34 > 0:09:37- Brilliant!- Well done.- Well done.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46I've headed back to Ayr station to take the mainline north.
0:09:46 > 0:09:51I love to see Scottish stations so beautifully kept.
0:09:51 > 0:09:55Louis Wall and his team of green-fingered volunteers
0:09:55 > 0:09:58look after 21 of them.
0:09:58 > 0:10:01Louis, I must say this station looks absolutely splendid.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04- Do people appreciate what you are doing?- Absolutely.
0:10:04 > 0:10:06It cheers them up.
0:10:06 > 0:10:08Stations used to always look glorious,
0:10:08 > 0:10:11but I think we've improved on days past.
0:10:11 > 0:10:14- Have you won any awards in the past? - Oh, yes.
0:10:14 > 0:10:16Last year we came up with the national award,
0:10:16 > 0:10:19the award for the United Kingdom.
0:10:19 > 0:10:24And we came top in that category of best floral display.
0:10:24 > 0:10:27- Well done to you.- Thank you very much.- Bye-bye.- Bye-bye.
0:10:32 > 0:10:37My next stop is Kilwinning, which lies 25 miles southwest of Glasgow.
0:10:40 > 0:10:42From one traditional activity to another.
0:10:42 > 0:10:44I shall be getting off at Kilwinning
0:10:44 > 0:10:48because Bradshaw's tells me that an archery club is held here
0:10:48 > 0:10:54which was established in 1488 and at which the popinjay is held.
0:10:54 > 0:10:57What is "popinjay"? I'm all a-quiver.
0:11:03 > 0:11:06Kilwinning is a historic Ayrshire town.
0:11:06 > 0:11:09The settlement and its 12th century abbey are thought to be named
0:11:09 > 0:11:11after St Winin.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14Today the abbey is just a ruin,
0:11:14 > 0:11:18but Bradshaw's is generally reliable on places of interest.
0:11:21 > 0:11:24It may look like a festival of umbrellas,
0:11:24 > 0:11:28but it is in fact an archery competition with a long history.
0:11:30 > 0:11:32I'm meeting Stuart Wilson
0:11:32 > 0:11:35from the Ancient Society Of Kilwinning Archers.
0:11:35 > 0:11:38- Hello!- Hello, Michael. How are you? - How are you doing, Stuart?
0:11:38 > 0:11:41Excellent, apart from the rain.
0:11:46 > 0:11:50Bradshaw's tells me that you've had an archery club here since 1488.
0:11:50 > 0:11:541483, in actual fact, is the date we go for.
0:11:54 > 0:11:56Its history has been a bit indistinct in that time.
0:11:56 > 0:11:59Bradshaw's talks about a popinjay. What's that?
0:11:59 > 0:12:03Popinjay is an English word, in actual fact, for parrot.
0:12:03 > 0:12:04An old English word.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07The Scots word for it is papingo,
0:12:07 > 0:12:11and that's what we'll be doing today, shooting at the papingo.
0:12:11 > 0:12:13What is this handsome object here?
0:12:13 > 0:12:18This is the Ancient Society Of Kilwinning Archers silver arrow.
0:12:18 > 0:12:24The first medal on it is 1697, which is before the Act Of Union.
0:12:24 > 0:12:29And the earliest part of the trophy is this part along here.
0:12:29 > 0:12:34This was donated by an archer called David Muir.
0:12:34 > 0:12:38A medal goes on for the archer who hits the pigeon or,
0:12:38 > 0:12:40as we would say, "dings doun the doo".
0:12:40 > 0:12:43- Dings doun the doo.- Indeed.
0:12:43 > 0:12:46There are a few interesting medals on here.
0:12:46 > 0:12:49- We've even had a politician on here. - No!
0:12:49 > 0:12:52Mr Stanford was a professor of Greek
0:12:52 > 0:12:56and he stood for Parliament in Glasgow, but he didn't get elected.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58I know the feeling!
0:12:58 > 0:13:01But he did stand the following year for Paisley
0:13:01 > 0:13:03and he got elected for that.
0:13:03 > 0:13:06But he decided he didn't like it and within the year he resigned.
0:13:06 > 0:13:08I know that feeling, too!
0:13:09 > 0:13:11Back in the 15th century,
0:13:11 > 0:13:14every district in Scotland had a review of its troops
0:13:14 > 0:13:16called a wappenshaw,
0:13:16 > 0:13:19where they would show their weapons and their skill.
0:13:20 > 0:13:25And the challenge for the archers was a target on top of this tower.
0:13:26 > 0:13:30Right, Michael, this is what we are going to be shooting at.
0:13:30 > 0:13:33This is the papingo. MICHAEL LAUGHS
0:13:33 > 0:13:34What's it made of?
0:13:34 > 0:13:37This is wood and it's supposed to represent a pigeon.
0:13:37 > 0:13:39This will go on the end of the pole.
0:13:39 > 0:13:42We are going to push it out to our mark.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45So it just fits like so and it's loose at the moment,
0:13:45 > 0:13:48and we very carefully slide this out.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- So, lift from here...- Lift from there, gently, and slide out.
0:13:52 > 0:13:56In days of old a live pigeon was used. We're more humane these days.
0:13:56 > 0:14:00Keep it going. Keep it going... Right, now, hold it there.
0:14:02 > 0:14:03You can let go now.
0:14:03 > 0:14:06Well, Stuart, I have done some weird things in my time,
0:14:06 > 0:14:09but pushing a papingo out on a pole
0:14:09 > 0:14:12from an abbey tower rates right up there!
0:14:13 > 0:14:16Despite my evident sporting handicaps,
0:14:16 > 0:14:18I'd be so happy to score a birdie.
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- Whoa!- Oh, that was close.
0:14:21 > 0:14:23That's what you've got to do.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26And I expect you to get a bit closer than that after I've taught you.
0:14:26 > 0:14:28But that is absolutely impossible, Stuart,
0:14:28 > 0:14:31how does anybody hit the papingo?
0:14:31 > 0:14:33Well, it's been done.
0:14:33 > 0:14:37If you look at my bonnet, you will see there are three rosettes,
0:14:37 > 0:14:41and the rosettes were given for hitting the wings.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44Returning from my training session,
0:14:44 > 0:14:49it's time to focus on how the oldest archery competition in the world is going.
0:14:55 > 0:14:57CHEERING
0:14:57 > 0:14:59He's done it, he's dinged doun the doo.
0:15:04 > 0:15:06Well done.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09That was fantastic, you hit the papingo.
0:15:09 > 0:15:10Yes, it's absolutely spectacular.
0:15:10 > 0:15:12How many years have you tried?
0:15:12 > 0:15:14This is actually my first year.
0:15:14 > 0:15:16- No!- Absolutely first year.
0:15:16 > 0:15:19They're really nice because they tell you up a bit, down a bit,
0:15:19 > 0:15:21right, right.
0:15:21 > 0:15:22I just let go and as it was going up,
0:15:22 > 0:15:25it was as if it just went into slow motion,
0:15:25 > 0:15:27and I saw it hit. It was fantastic.
0:15:27 > 0:15:30My go.
0:15:30 > 0:15:32Good luck!
0:15:32 > 0:15:37So I have just one arrow to hit a target 103 feet up
0:15:37 > 0:15:39but looks the size of my thumb.
0:15:39 > 0:15:42Here we go. Right.
0:15:42 > 0:15:48Let me stand one foot on the step, one foot on the gravel.
0:15:48 > 0:15:50Bring the bow up into the vertical.
0:15:50 > 0:15:54I'll give you some guidance with my arrow again.
0:15:54 > 0:15:57Out more to the vertical. Out to there.
0:15:57 > 0:15:59That's better.
0:15:59 > 0:16:02- It's not the easiest of angles. - When ready.
0:16:05 > 0:16:07That's a good shot.
0:16:12 > 0:16:14That wasn't as bad as I thought.
0:16:14 > 0:16:15That was close.
0:16:15 > 0:16:18I feel good for that, thank you so much.
0:16:18 > 0:16:20APPLAUSE
0:16:20 > 0:16:24The first award today for dinging doun the doo
0:16:24 > 0:16:27goes to Johan Kangasniemi.
0:16:27 > 0:16:30APPLAUSE
0:16:30 > 0:16:33- Congratulations, Johan. - Thank you.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36- How does it feel to hold that? - Impressive.
0:16:36 > 0:16:40I did not plan on this when I showed up this morning.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42- I'm really, really grateful. - Well done.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45APPLAUSE
0:16:45 > 0:16:49I've so thoroughly enjoyed being a medieval archer
0:16:49 > 0:16:52that it's a pity not to celebrate the doo with a dram,
0:16:52 > 0:16:55but my bed for the night is still three stops away.
0:16:59 > 0:17:04At my next destination, Bradshaw promises me salmon and rabbits.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07As the goon who failed to ding doun the doo,
0:17:07 > 0:17:09I'm on my way to Troon.
0:17:11 > 0:17:14Troon is famous today for its royal golf course,
0:17:14 > 0:17:19but in the 19th century it was the town's railway which caused waves.
0:17:19 > 0:17:21I'll find out why in the morning.
0:17:38 > 0:17:42I'm up early on a stunning morning to meet local historian
0:17:42 > 0:17:47Bill Fitzpatrick at the site of the Kilmarnock and Troon Railway
0:17:47 > 0:17:50which began here at the coast.
0:17:52 > 0:17:53Hello.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56Excellent to see you, what an astonishing view.
0:17:56 > 0:17:58Beautiful view.
0:17:58 > 0:18:02Bill, I believe that the first railway line in Scotland was hereabouts.
0:18:02 > 0:18:05Yes, the Duke of Portland had many coal mines in Kilmarnock,
0:18:05 > 0:18:08and he decided to build a port down here
0:18:08 > 0:18:11to shift his coal, mainly to Ireland.
0:18:11 > 0:18:16His original idea was a canal but he then replaced it with a plateway,
0:18:16 > 0:18:19which would run wagons pulled by horses on it.
0:18:19 > 0:18:24These early rails were specifically engineered to take a flat wheel.
0:18:24 > 0:18:28The plateway rail is L-shaped to keep the wagon wheel on track.
0:18:28 > 0:18:31And there were frequent places where one vehicle could pull across
0:18:31 > 0:18:34to the other track to allow a faster horse to pass.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38A horse could pull about five tonnes in two hours
0:18:38 > 0:18:41from Kilmarnock down to here, which is about 10 miles.
0:18:41 > 0:18:42And what date was all this?
0:18:42 > 0:18:48The act was passed about 1808 and the railway was opened by 1812.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51It's easy to forget how dependent the world was
0:18:51 > 0:18:54on horsepower before the coming of steam.
0:18:54 > 0:18:59Horses were the universal mode of land transport from personal steed
0:18:59 > 0:19:00to omnibuses.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04This was strictly for coal, was it?
0:19:04 > 0:19:05It was strictly for coal
0:19:05 > 0:19:09but almost from the beginning, they seem to have carried passengers.
0:19:09 > 0:19:11The railway company couldn't carry passengers
0:19:11 > 0:19:15but it could license people and it could toll people for carrying passengers.
0:19:15 > 0:19:17The way they worked out the passengers
0:19:17 > 0:19:20was exactly the same way as goods on it.
0:19:20 > 0:19:22- They were done by weight. - My goodness!
0:19:22 > 0:19:26So you wanted to have quite a small breakfast before you went down for the train.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29Well, I've no doubt they had all that thought out before they did.
0:19:30 > 0:19:34The railway also went on to become the earliest line in Scotland
0:19:34 > 0:19:38to use a steam locomotive, and the towns of Troon and Kilmarnock
0:19:38 > 0:19:42benefited significantly because of its development.
0:19:43 > 0:19:45Is there any vestige of the line left?
0:19:45 > 0:19:48This end has gone and the Kilmarnock end has gone,
0:19:48 > 0:19:52but the bit between Barassie and Kilmarnock is pretty well still there,
0:19:52 > 0:19:54re-laid and worked as a proper railway line.
0:19:54 > 0:19:56So if I were to take a train over those tracks,
0:19:56 > 0:20:00- I'd have a distinctly historic feeling.- Yes.
0:20:03 > 0:20:06And that's exactly what I intend to do.
0:20:06 > 0:20:11Because this is the 21st century's big, bold answer to hauling coal.
0:20:13 > 0:20:17I'm embarking on this freight train at Barassie Station
0:20:17 > 0:20:19to travel along this historic route.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23These days, moving coal from the port at Hunterston
0:20:23 > 0:20:26to West Burton power station in north Nottinghamshire
0:20:26 > 0:20:29is a relatively stress-free business.
0:20:29 > 0:20:33In order for the train to change direction from the mainline
0:20:33 > 0:20:39north to the branchline east, this 3,300 horsepower locomotive
0:20:39 > 0:20:42has to swap ends.
0:20:42 > 0:20:46So we brought the locomotive all the way down the train
0:20:46 > 0:20:48so we can change ends.
0:20:50 > 0:20:51Small impact coming up.
0:20:51 > 0:20:54Boom! Very neat.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58Then it's all about pulling this huge weight back up to cruising speed
0:20:58 > 0:21:02because it's important not to hold up passenger traffic.
0:21:09 > 0:21:12I notice the locomotive, powerful as it is,
0:21:12 > 0:21:15was quite slow to pick up. What kind of weight are we hauling?
0:21:15 > 0:21:20The train that we're hauling today is upwards of 2,200 tonnes,
0:21:20 > 0:21:21so she's very heavy
0:21:21 > 0:21:24and obviously very difficult to initially get moving.
0:21:24 > 0:21:27It's a very powerful machine but because of the weight of the train,
0:21:27 > 0:21:29it lets you know where the gradients are,
0:21:29 > 0:21:32so part of our route knowledge is knowing where the gradients are
0:21:32 > 0:21:35and knowing how to use them to our advantage.
0:21:35 > 0:21:38Scott, were you aware this is the oldest railway line in Scotland?
0:21:38 > 0:21:43I was aware of the history involved in this particular part of the line
0:21:43 > 0:21:44we are travelling on,
0:21:44 > 0:21:50Having initially been built to transport coal from the coal fields round about Kilmarnock up to Troon.
0:21:50 > 0:21:54- You imagine they were using horses in those days.- Absolutely, yes, yes.
0:21:54 > 0:21:58- It was about 1812, was it?- It was 1812. And I suppose you can understand it,
0:21:58 > 0:22:01because this is very much on the level, isn't it?
0:22:01 > 0:22:03Yes, it is pretty much, yeah.
0:22:03 > 0:22:06Although we have got quite a gradient as we go into Kilmarnock station.
0:22:07 > 0:22:10Pretty much not noticeable with a passenger train
0:22:10 > 0:22:14but with the weight we are pulling today it is very noticeable.
0:22:21 > 0:22:26I am now returning to the comfort of a passenger service as I head north towards Glasgow.
0:22:32 > 0:22:35A short journey north will bring me to Stewarton.
0:22:35 > 0:22:36Bradshaw's tells me that,
0:22:36 > 0:22:43"Considerable manufactures of woollen tartans, caps and Scotch bonnets are carried on here."
0:22:43 > 0:22:48It might have added Balmorals, Glengarrys and Tam O'Shanters,
0:22:48 > 0:22:51because it is a town of hats to which I am headed.
0:22:58 > 0:23:01Stewarton, in rural northern Ayrshire,
0:23:01 > 0:23:06doesn't seem an obvious place for a Victorian manufacturing hub,
0:23:06 > 0:23:09but in the 1840s it was.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13I am meeting Keith Mackie, the owner of Robert Mackie,
0:23:13 > 0:23:18a company that manufactures traditional Scottish bonnets.
0:23:20 > 0:23:26So I believe I am not only in Stewarton but in Bonnet Toun. What's the history here?
0:23:26 > 0:23:31Well, bonnet making in Stewarton can be traced back 400 years.
0:23:31 > 0:23:35I can trace it back in my family 11 generations.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38What sort of products were you producing, traditionally?
0:23:38 > 0:23:42By today's standards you would call them berets, if you like.
0:23:42 > 0:23:45Rather course, hand-knitted berets.
0:23:45 > 0:23:48- And the customers for these hats were who?- Everybody.
0:23:48 > 0:23:51This is way before the days of central heating.
0:23:51 > 0:23:56If you went outside you wore a hat and that hat would have been a very simple bonnet.
0:23:56 > 0:23:58And tell me about the industry in Victorian times.
0:23:58 > 0:24:02This company was started by Robert Mackie in 1845,
0:24:02 > 0:24:08and with the advent of very soon after that the railways coming to Stewarton
0:24:08 > 0:24:13and finer rolls were available from Australia,
0:24:13 > 0:24:17he invented the first knitting machine for bonnets.
0:24:17 > 0:24:24The steam powered machines speeded up the manufacturing process and improved the overall quality,
0:24:24 > 0:24:27allowing the company to make bonnets for Scottish regiments.
0:24:29 > 0:24:33Different regiments had different hats. Some had Glengarrys, some had Balmorals.
0:24:33 > 0:24:39And they had different dicing and different pom-poms, touries, different plumes to signify the hat.
0:24:39 > 0:24:44They certainly confer on the wearer a sense of pride.
0:24:45 > 0:24:49The fabric comes off the machine in a spiral and is cut into that shape.
0:24:50 > 0:24:54- OK.- I don't want to be rude, but that doesn't look like anything at all, really.
0:24:54 > 0:25:01- It is then, what we call linked, with an invisible seam, it is very hard to see.- Beautiful.
0:25:01 > 0:25:07- If you smell that you'll smell the wool oil.- Yeah.- And it feels quite rough.
0:25:07 > 0:25:09So the next stage is washing.
0:25:09 > 0:25:12And then it has been what we call "milled" or "felted."
0:25:12 > 0:25:14And that is feeling a bit softer now.
0:25:14 > 0:25:18It is getting nearer all the time, I had no idea it was so elaborate.
0:25:18 > 0:25:21And then the next stage is dyeing.
0:25:21 > 0:25:24So it is dyed either black or indigo.
0:25:24 > 0:25:28- I have a feeling, though, that it is still not quite finished.- It's got a long way to go
0:25:28 > 0:25:33I never knew there was so much to it. But just as with the curling stones,
0:25:33 > 0:25:38the tradition of passing down the skills is very much alive.
0:25:38 > 0:25:42Keith wants me to meet bonnet supervisor Paula Wilson.
0:25:43 > 0:25:47- Hello!- Hello!- Good to see you, I'm Michael.- Pleased to meet you, Michael.
0:25:47 > 0:25:49Have you been making hats for very long?
0:25:49 > 0:25:53- Yes, I've been making hats for 30 years.- That's a long time.- That is a long time.
0:25:53 > 0:25:59- And your family as well?- My mum worked here as well, she was here for 25 years, and my dad worked here.
0:25:59 > 0:26:02And at the moment my sister and my niece work here.
0:26:02 > 0:26:05- It is a big business in Stewarton, even today.- Yes, it is.
0:26:05 > 0:26:08Even when the body of this Glengarry is complete,
0:26:08 > 0:26:12there are still those all-important embellishments to be added.
0:26:12 > 0:26:14Theresa is making pom-poms.
0:26:14 > 0:26:16Hello, Theresa. What shall I do?
0:26:16 > 0:26:20- Just put your finger in there, Michael.- Put my finger in there, are you kidding?!
0:26:20 > 0:26:22Yeah, it's all right, everything will be fine.
0:26:24 > 0:26:27Whoa! Now what do I do?
0:26:27 > 0:26:29And now, pull it really tight.
0:26:32 > 0:26:35- Oh, it's shaping up quite nicely, isn't it?- That's it.
0:26:37 > 0:26:39Would you like to give it a wee bit of a trim?
0:26:41 > 0:26:46Give it a trim, right. So, any little bit of surface stuff?
0:26:46 > 0:26:47Just take those off.
0:26:49 > 0:26:53- How's that looking?- It's looking lovely, Michael.- Thank you.
0:26:53 > 0:26:58For me, one of the bonnet's most iconic appearances is in this famous railway film.
0:26:58 > 0:27:02They won't see us! It's all no good!
0:27:02 > 0:27:06Jenny Agutter, sporting one of the factory's finest.
0:27:06 > 0:27:09Now, I wonder whether I can carry it off?
0:27:09 > 0:27:10Want to try that one on?
0:27:14 > 0:27:18- Fits perfectly, how's that? - Very nice. You suit that, Michael.
0:27:18 > 0:27:22You'll ne'er look so bonny as in a Bonnet Toun bonnet!
0:27:29 > 0:27:35A Martian visiting Scotland might be surprised to see archers shooting arrows at a wooden bird.
0:27:35 > 0:27:41Or curling players sweeping the ice before a slithering piece of granite.
0:27:41 > 0:27:46With the advent of the railways, trains have brought competitors and tourists
0:27:46 > 0:27:49to help to sustain these splendid traditions.
0:27:49 > 0:27:52You might think them peculiar, but if so,
0:27:52 > 0:27:55I'll ask you to keep your opinion under your Tam O'Shanter.
0:28:00 > 0:28:03Next time, I meet a seagoing beauty...
0:28:03 > 0:28:07She was the last of the Clyde-built excursion paddle-steamers to work on the Clyde.
0:28:07 > 0:28:11..discover how a Victorian icon nearly met his end...
0:28:11 > 0:28:13ROARING
0:28:16 > 0:28:18..and rise to a bake-off challenge.
0:28:18 > 0:28:23There is always a point where a dough says to you that it's had enough.
0:28:23 > 0:28:26- Oh.- And I believe that was about two minutes go.