0:00:04 > 0:00:08For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name.
0:00:09 > 0:00:11At a time when railways were new,
0:00:11 > 0:00:15Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks.
0:00:15 > 0:00:20I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide to understand how trains
0:00:20 > 0:00:24transformed Britain - its landscape, its industry,
0:00:24 > 0:00:26society and leisure time.
0:00:26 > 0:00:31As I crisscross the country 150 years later, it helps me
0:00:31 > 0:00:33to discover the Britain of today.
0:00:56 > 0:01:01My journey this week will take me across Scotland from west to east.
0:01:01 > 0:01:02I began at the Firth of Clyde
0:01:02 > 0:01:07and am now heading through the Scottish Lowlands towards Glasgow.
0:01:07 > 0:01:10Then north to Stirling and Perth,
0:01:10 > 0:01:12close to where the kings of Scotland were crowned.
0:01:12 > 0:01:16I'll travel on east to Fife and the famous university town
0:01:16 > 0:01:20of St Andrews, finally heading south to Scotland's capital,
0:01:20 > 0:01:22where my journey ends.
0:01:23 > 0:01:28This leg begins at Clydeside's westernmost industrial town...
0:01:28 > 0:01:29crosses by paddle steamer
0:01:29 > 0:01:33to the Victorian holiday resort of Helensburgh.
0:01:33 > 0:01:35From there, it's on to the mighty city of Glasgow,
0:01:35 > 0:01:40before heading south to the former mining town of Blantyre.
0:01:40 > 0:01:42And my journey ends in Larkhall in South Lanarkshire.
0:01:45 > 0:01:47I meet a seagoing beauty...
0:01:47 > 0:01:50And she was the last of the Clydebuilt excursion
0:01:50 > 0:01:52paddle steamers to work on the Clyde.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55..discover how a Victorian hero nearly met his end...
0:01:55 > 0:01:57LION ROARS AND WHIP CRACKS
0:01:58 > 0:02:00RIFLE BLASTS
0:02:00 > 0:02:03..and rise to a bake-off challenge.
0:02:03 > 0:02:07There's always a point when a dough says to you that it's had enough.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10- Oh.- And I believe that was about two minutes ago.
0:02:10 > 0:02:12MICHAEL LAUGHS
0:02:23 > 0:02:25I'm continuing my journey across southern Scotland,
0:02:25 > 0:02:28which has now brought me to the area of Glasgow.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31A city which had a university in the 15th century,
0:02:31 > 0:02:33was a centre of The Enlightenment in the 18th,
0:02:33 > 0:02:38laid claim to being the second city of the British Empire
0:02:38 > 0:02:42in the 19th and then led in design and fashion.
0:02:42 > 0:02:43There's a clue in Bradshaw's
0:02:43 > 0:02:46to Glasgow's success in industrialisation.
0:02:46 > 0:02:50"At Bowling, near Dumbarton, is a pillar to the memory of Henry Bell,
0:02:50 > 0:02:55"who ran the first steamer on the Clyde, The Comet, in 1812."
0:02:55 > 0:02:58Incredibly early for a steam-powered vehicle,
0:02:58 > 0:03:01before the Napoleonic Wars had run their course.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04AUTOMATED VOICE: We are now approaching Greenock Central.
0:03:04 > 0:03:07Please mind the gap when alighting from this train.
0:03:15 > 0:03:18The impressive River Clyde is the heart of Glasgow.
0:03:20 > 0:03:21In Victorian times,
0:03:21 > 0:03:25the deepwater port was the centre of its great shipbuilding industry.
0:03:27 > 0:03:29The city made some of the world's greatest vessels,
0:03:29 > 0:03:33and also exported some of the finest railway rolling stock.
0:03:34 > 0:03:38I'm meeting local historian Stewart Noble to
0:03:38 > 0:03:41find out about the pioneering steamship Comet.
0:03:41 > 0:03:44Stewart, for me, with my interest in railways,
0:03:44 > 0:03:49it's kind of surprising that this took to the water in 1812!
0:03:49 > 0:03:51Long before railway locomotion.
0:03:51 > 0:03:54Because roads were in such bad condition
0:03:54 > 0:03:58and the River Clyde was only just navigable and no more,
0:03:58 > 0:04:02Henry Bell, the developer, the man who had the idea, he wanted to
0:04:02 > 0:04:06bring his guests in comfort and speed from Glasgow
0:04:06 > 0:04:08to his hotel in Helensburgh.
0:04:09 > 0:04:15Born in 1767, Bell trained as a stonemason before
0:04:15 > 0:04:17pioneering steampower in vessels.
0:04:17 > 0:04:21How did Henry Bell have the idea of putting a steam engine into a ship?
0:04:21 > 0:04:24Well, he was trained as a millwright,
0:04:24 > 0:04:27so he had a good idea of how machinery worked.
0:04:27 > 0:04:32He'd also seen steam engines working in industry and so on, and so because
0:04:32 > 0:04:35transport was so difficult between Glasgow
0:04:35 > 0:04:37and Helensburgh at that time,
0:04:37 > 0:04:42he decided to put a steam engine into a ship and had it
0:04:42 > 0:04:45built here in Port Glasgow, very close to where we're standing.
0:04:47 > 0:04:51Bell commissioned a local shipbuilder to construct
0:04:51 > 0:04:55a 25-ton wooden paddle steamer driven by
0:04:55 > 0:04:59a then-mighty three-horsepower engine to transport his hotel guests
0:04:59 > 0:05:02the 20 miles between Glasgow and Helensburgh.
0:05:03 > 0:05:08How successful was it against its more old-fashioned competition?
0:05:08 > 0:05:10It depends how you define success. It wasn't
0:05:10 > 0:05:16much faster than it could be coming by coach, it depended partly
0:05:16 > 0:05:19whether the tide and the wind were in favour of The Comet or not.
0:05:19 > 0:05:21But it was certainly more comfortable.
0:05:23 > 0:05:27Following Comet's maiden voyage in 1812, Bell inaugurated
0:05:27 > 0:05:32a regular passenger service between Glasgow, Greenock and Helensburgh.
0:05:32 > 0:05:34And in the following years,
0:05:34 > 0:05:37The Comet spawned a range of other steamships sailing on the Clyde.
0:05:39 > 0:05:42To celebrate The Comet, this replica was built.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47NEWSREEL MUSIC
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- NEWSREADER:- At Lithgow's Yard, thoughts would turn back 150 years
0:05:50 > 0:05:53to the day when Comet was launched.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55That was the name given to the first practical steamship
0:05:55 > 0:05:57to carry passengers.
0:05:59 > 0:06:02I wouldn't want to wound your Glasgow pride,
0:06:02 > 0:06:04but it's quite a small ship, why so?
0:06:04 > 0:06:06Well, ships weren't very big in those days,
0:06:06 > 0:06:10shipyards really were just places where people built boats
0:06:10 > 0:06:15on beaches, they weren't the big modern items we think of nowadays.
0:06:17 > 0:06:20While the replica is landlocked, happily, there is
0:06:20 > 0:06:23a paddle steamer still plying the old route.
0:06:24 > 0:06:28The Waverly has been crossing the Clyde for more than 60 years.
0:06:32 > 0:06:35Bradshaw's remarks that, "Any traveller, for pleasure,
0:06:35 > 0:06:40"who finds himself within Glasgow's smoky and dingy precincts in search
0:06:40 > 0:06:43"of the picturesque, the beautiful and the romantic,
0:06:43 > 0:06:46"has only to choose the first conveyance westward,
0:06:46 > 0:06:50"whether it be a Greenock train or a Clyde steamboat,
0:06:50 > 0:06:52"to find what he seeks and be gratified."
0:06:52 > 0:06:56And on a day like today, you can see what the book means.
0:06:56 > 0:07:02The industrial worker in the slums of Glasgow could escape to this
0:07:02 > 0:07:06magnificent waterscape if he or she had the price of the fare.
0:07:09 > 0:07:11PIPER PLAYS
0:07:13 > 0:07:18But back in 1975, The Waverly seemed destined for the shipbreaker's,
0:07:18 > 0:07:23until a charity rescued her in a deal that was sealed for £1.
0:07:23 > 0:07:28What an exciting moment - boarding a wonderful, beautiful paddle steamer.
0:07:28 > 0:07:30HORN BLARES
0:07:31 > 0:07:33A moment to savour,
0:07:33 > 0:07:37because she's the last seagoing paddle steamer in the world.
0:07:37 > 0:07:41Magnificently restored, with towering funnels and timber decks,
0:07:41 > 0:07:47it's a delight to feel the power of her steam engines beneath my feet.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51For those of us whose image of the Clyde is of shipbuilding yards,
0:07:51 > 0:07:54this vision is a great surprise.
0:07:54 > 0:07:55As Bradshaw says,
0:07:55 > 0:07:59"The scenery is remarkable for its picturesque beauty."
0:07:59 > 0:08:00The hills, the valleys,
0:08:00 > 0:08:04the mountains...and these wonderful skies.
0:08:09 > 0:08:11Captain, what is the history of The Waverly?
0:08:11 > 0:08:14Waverly was built in Glasgow by
0:08:14 > 0:08:16The London and North Eastern Railway Company.
0:08:16 > 0:08:19She was the last of the Clydebuilt excursion paddle steamers
0:08:19 > 0:08:23to work on the Clyde, and indeed, anywhere in the UK and the world.
0:08:23 > 0:08:26It's lovely to think that this old girl is still
0:08:26 > 0:08:28pulling in the passengers.
0:08:28 > 0:08:33- Hello, ladies.- ALL: Hello!- What's the attraction?- It's a good day out.
0:08:33 > 0:08:35Especially when you get lovely Scottish weather, as well.
0:08:35 > 0:08:39- What made you come on today? - My daughter.- Yes.
0:08:39 > 0:08:41Did you know the ship?
0:08:41 > 0:08:44We know the ship, my father worked on the paddle steamers, so...
0:08:44 > 0:08:47- Bit of a trip down memory lane, then?- Exactly.
0:08:56 > 0:09:01Helensburgh was founded in the 18th century by Sir James Colquhoun.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05He planned the resort and built and named it after his wife Helen.
0:09:08 > 0:09:10But I'm bound for Glasgow,
0:09:10 > 0:09:12so it's back on the train for a short trip to the city.
0:09:22 > 0:09:25"40 years ago, there were scores of towns within the kingdom
0:09:25 > 0:09:30"superior to Glasgow in wealth, extent and population.
0:09:30 > 0:09:34"Now, it has a larger population than Edinburgh, Dublin, Liverpool
0:09:34 > 0:09:38"or Manchester, and combines within itself the advantages
0:09:38 > 0:09:41"possessed by the last two mentioned."
0:09:41 > 0:09:45But Glasgow didn't want to compete only in terms of industry
0:09:45 > 0:09:48and size - but also for style.
0:09:56 > 0:09:59Glasgow at the time of my guidebook was
0:09:59 > 0:10:02the second city of the British Empire.
0:10:02 > 0:10:04It was riding an industrial boom,
0:10:04 > 0:10:08and its wealth and outlook were evident in its grand architecture.
0:10:12 > 0:10:16Many of its most iconic buildings were designed by
0:10:16 > 0:10:18the architect and artist Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
0:10:20 > 0:10:24I'm meeting Alison Brown, an expert in the Glasgow Style.
0:10:27 > 0:10:29- Hello, Alison. - Hello, Michael, nice to meet you.
0:10:29 > 0:10:34What a fantastic spread, and what a beautiful tearoom, tell me about it.
0:10:34 > 0:10:36Well, this is the Willow Tearooms,
0:10:36 > 0:10:39it was designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh for
0:10:39 > 0:10:42tearoom entrepreneur Catherine Cranston,
0:10:42 > 0:10:45and it opened on the 28th of October 1903.
0:10:45 > 0:10:49Was Charles Rennie Mackintosh in the habit of designing tearooms?
0:10:49 > 0:10:52He was, this was his fourth tearoom that he designed for Miss Cranston.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55What distinguishes this tearoom was that Mackintosh designed
0:10:55 > 0:10:57the whole tearoom in one go,
0:10:57 > 0:11:02from the external facade to the tearoom interiors, and we are in the
0:11:02 > 0:11:06Room de Luxe, and to come up here to have your tea you paid
0:11:06 > 0:11:10a penny extra, because the design was extra special.
0:11:10 > 0:11:14This innovative setting reflects Miss Cranston's personality.
0:11:14 > 0:11:19At a time when few women were in business, she defied convention.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22She cannily spotted a gap in the market for
0:11:22 > 0:11:24respectable places for people of quality to meet.
0:11:26 > 0:11:27She was ahead of her time.
0:11:27 > 0:11:31She understood ideas of marketing
0:11:31 > 0:11:36and branding before they became the terms that we now know today.
0:11:36 > 0:11:41She championed the young artists and designers that were coming up,
0:11:41 > 0:11:43emerging not just from Glasgow,
0:11:43 > 0:11:45but from Edinburgh and elsewhere in Scotland.
0:11:45 > 0:11:49Glasgow is the one industrial city in Britain that actually
0:11:49 > 0:11:51created its own distinct version of Art Nouveau.
0:11:51 > 0:11:55Slightly geometric, elongated sinuous forms.
0:11:55 > 0:11:59Basically, the Glasgow style refers to the art that was coming
0:11:59 > 0:12:03out of the Glasgow School of Art and from the pupils and teachers that
0:12:03 > 0:12:07were working there from the period from 1890 through to about 1914.
0:12:09 > 0:12:12Mackintosh, also a student,
0:12:12 > 0:12:15developed his very distinctive trademark style.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18The pierced square motif is instantly recognisable.
0:12:21 > 0:12:25This is Mackintosh's most luxurious tearoom.
0:12:25 > 0:12:28I think you can see by the quantity of mirrored glass
0:12:28 > 0:12:32and stained-glass and metalwork and the furniture design.
0:12:33 > 0:12:36And the reviews that were in the local newspapers today after
0:12:36 > 0:12:39this building opened commented on this
0:12:39 > 0:12:44being the sort of high point of his tearoom design.
0:12:44 > 0:12:46But, fully to appreciate his genius,
0:12:46 > 0:12:49I'm told that I must visit the Glasgow School of Art.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53The School of Art is considered his masterwork.
0:12:53 > 0:12:55It's an absolutely incredible building.
0:12:55 > 0:13:00Purpose-built and still used for its original function
0:13:00 > 0:13:01of being an art school.
0:13:03 > 0:13:07Mackintosh was 28 years old and a junior draughtsman
0:13:07 > 0:13:09at a Glasgow architecture firm
0:13:09 > 0:13:12when he drew up the plans for the building.
0:13:12 > 0:13:16The dramatic Art Nouveau design took about 12 years to build
0:13:16 > 0:13:18and opened in 1909.
0:13:18 > 0:13:23The use of heavy sandstone walls, combined with huge glass windows,
0:13:23 > 0:13:25was bold for its time.
0:13:25 > 0:13:28Even the decorative ironwork had a function,
0:13:28 > 0:13:31as a support for the window cleaner's ladder.
0:13:31 > 0:13:36Scotland almost lost its internationally celebrated treasure.
0:13:36 > 0:13:38Fire crews from across the country
0:13:38 > 0:13:41have spent the afternoon trying to douse the flames.
0:13:41 > 0:13:44This, a school famous for its architecture,
0:13:44 > 0:13:46and the artists it's produced.
0:13:46 > 0:13:49It was full of students when the blaze broke out.
0:13:49 > 0:13:51All were led to safety.
0:13:51 > 0:13:55I'm meeting Douglas Anderson, former pupil,
0:13:55 > 0:13:57now architect in charge of the restoration.
0:13:57 > 0:14:00So, Douglas, given the severity of the fire,
0:14:00 > 0:14:03I'm rather amazed to find so much of the building intact.
0:14:03 > 0:14:08Yes, we were fortunate that the fire service was able to save
0:14:08 > 0:14:10most of the building as it is.
0:14:10 > 0:14:16Architecturally speaking, what was so special about this building?
0:14:16 > 0:14:17Mackintosh was an innovator.
0:14:17 > 0:14:22At his time, he dragged architecture in Glasgow away from
0:14:22 > 0:14:27the Victorian styles and started looking at modern styles and efforts.
0:14:27 > 0:14:30As Art Nouveau was coming in, he embraced Art Nouveau.
0:14:30 > 0:14:34He understood what was happening on the Continent. And this was fresh.
0:14:34 > 0:14:37But sometimes it was difficult for Glasgow to understand
0:14:37 > 0:14:39what he was trying to achieve.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42The building was criticised in its day when it opened
0:14:42 > 0:14:46but, everybody, as the years went on, people embraced it, understood it
0:14:46 > 0:14:50and really, looked upon it as an inspiration for new building.
0:14:52 > 0:14:56The key to Mackintosh's approach was practicality.
0:14:56 > 0:15:00Here, he created rooms for artists filled with light.
0:15:02 > 0:15:05Mackintosh had a fantastic eye for detail.
0:15:05 > 0:15:08If you can see round about you what he's developed here
0:15:08 > 0:15:12in terms of timber engineering, the detail, the Art Nouveau details,
0:15:12 > 0:15:16the carvings, this is what really made him very famous.
0:15:16 > 0:15:20He couldn't pass by any detail, whether it was doors, trusses,
0:15:20 > 0:15:22walls, panelling.
0:15:22 > 0:15:24All this was magnificent.
0:15:24 > 0:15:26What does the building mean to Glasgow?
0:15:27 > 0:15:30Glasgow's in love with Mackintosh architecture.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34This building is such a special place for Glaswegians
0:15:34 > 0:15:36to understand, they visit it.
0:15:36 > 0:15:38I grew up here, I studied here.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41It was a very important part of my career,
0:15:41 > 0:15:43as it was for many artists in Glasgow.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46Throughout the whole century it's been here,
0:15:46 > 0:15:47it's such an important building.
0:15:50 > 0:15:55The architect introduced ingenious and innovative practical touches
0:15:55 > 0:15:57to the Art School's bold design.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03He added a frame to the director's studio, a portcullis to draw
0:16:03 > 0:16:06and lower canvases too big for the director's stairs.
0:16:06 > 0:16:09Mackintosh leaves nothing, however small, to chance.
0:16:14 > 0:16:18This is the Mackintosh Room, which is our main meeting room.
0:16:18 > 0:16:20But Mackintosh was a master of light.
0:16:20 > 0:16:23This is what's so appealing about this space.
0:16:23 > 0:16:26Natural light coming through these east windows, as well as
0:16:26 > 0:16:30artificial light that he designed, uniquely, to illuminate the space.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36Thankfully, much of Rennie Mackintosh's design
0:16:36 > 0:16:40has survived, but the upper studios were destroyed
0:16:40 > 0:16:43and the roof was left in a very poor condition.
0:16:43 > 0:16:45Now, you were a student here.
0:16:45 > 0:16:47Do you regard it as a great honour that you are charged with
0:16:47 > 0:16:50the restoration of Mackintosh's work?
0:16:50 > 0:16:52Absolutely. I loved my time here.
0:16:52 > 0:16:54This is a good way to end a career the way I started it,
0:16:54 > 0:16:56in the Mackintosh School.
0:17:01 > 0:17:04At the end of another day led by Bradshaw's,
0:17:04 > 0:17:07I'm staying at Glasgow Central Station's own hotel.
0:17:18 > 0:17:24I'm up early to leave behind the city's grandeur and hurly-burly.
0:17:24 > 0:17:25Bye.
0:17:32 > 0:17:36I'm ten seconds from the lobby of my hotel and I'm in the heart
0:17:36 > 0:17:39of the concourse of Glasgow Central Station,
0:17:39 > 0:17:42I believe, one of the finest in the British Isles.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45Built by the Victorians, amplified by the Edwardians,
0:17:45 > 0:17:49with its very distinctive rounded shop fronts in dark wood.
0:17:49 > 0:17:51It provides a magnificent gateway to Glasgow,
0:17:51 > 0:17:55not least for intercity passengers arriving from England.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01I'm negotiating the station's lower platforms
0:18:01 > 0:18:03to head south to Lanarkshire.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09In the 19th century, coal and iron manufacture took off,
0:18:09 > 0:18:11and Scotland's boom began.
0:18:12 > 0:18:18People flocked to open mines and set up furnaces to make their fortunes.
0:18:18 > 0:18:19I'm headed now for Blantyre,
0:18:19 > 0:18:22and an 1880s edition of my Bradshaw's reminds me
0:18:22 > 0:18:25of the dark side of the Industrial Revolution.
0:18:25 > 0:18:30"200 miners were killed here by an explosion in 1877,
0:18:30 > 0:18:32"on Blantyre's blackest day."
0:18:33 > 0:18:34The tragedy happened
0:18:34 > 0:18:39when a flammable gas was ignited by a naked flame.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43The explosion left 92 widows and 250 fatherless children
0:18:43 > 0:18:47and was Scotland's worst-ever mining accident.
0:18:49 > 0:18:50Blantyre.
0:18:52 > 0:18:57Today, the colliery is long gone, but along the banks of the Clyde,
0:18:57 > 0:19:01there are still traces of Blantyre's heyday as a cotton manufacturer.
0:19:01 > 0:19:05It feels as though I'm crossing a bridge to another time.
0:19:07 > 0:19:10Conditions in the mills were terrible.
0:19:10 > 0:19:12Today I'm interested in a self-made,
0:19:12 > 0:19:16working-class hero who clawed his way out of them,
0:19:16 > 0:19:19out of poverty and on to help abolish slavery in Africa.
0:19:23 > 0:19:27David Livingstone was one of the first medical missionaries to
0:19:27 > 0:19:29enter southern and central Africa.
0:19:31 > 0:19:35Alison Ritchie is the manager of the David Livingstone Museum.
0:19:38 > 0:19:40This is the Livingstones' home.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42It all seems very picturesque.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45What was it actually like in their day?
0:19:45 > 0:19:47Probably not so picturesque.
0:19:47 > 0:19:51This room was the entire house. There were nine people that lived in here.
0:19:51 > 0:19:53You had absolutely no privacy.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55Everything was done in this room from the cooking, sleeping,
0:19:55 > 0:19:58and under the bed is the toilet.
0:19:58 > 0:20:01But not nearly enough beds for so many people.
0:20:01 > 0:20:03No, we think his parents slept in this bed here.
0:20:03 > 0:20:08The five children on the higher bed together and the grandparents
0:20:08 > 0:20:11would have slept on this bed here, which would come sliding out.
0:20:12 > 0:20:15The families must have been packed like sardines into these
0:20:15 > 0:20:20tenement blocks, because the mill employed 2,000 workers.
0:20:20 > 0:20:23And David Livingstone himself worked as a cotton hand.
0:20:23 > 0:20:27He did, he worked as a piecer in the mills, from the age of ten.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31He would have worked for 14 hours a day, six days a week,
0:20:31 > 0:20:32in really horrendous conditions..
0:20:32 > 0:20:35Lots of mill children suffered horrendous injuries
0:20:35 > 0:20:39and illnesses from the strain and danger of their work.
0:20:39 > 0:20:43So how on earth did this child break out from his background?
0:20:43 > 0:20:45Education, really.
0:20:45 > 0:20:47He went to school at eight o'clock after he finished work
0:20:47 > 0:20:50and would go to school until ten o'clock at night.
0:20:50 > 0:20:53After that, he would come back here and sit out in the hallway
0:20:53 > 0:20:56and read books until midnight, even one in the morning,
0:20:56 > 0:20:58when he would come back in and go to bed.
0:20:58 > 0:21:02He would then have to get up at five o'clock the next morning
0:21:02 > 0:21:03to do it all over again.
0:21:04 > 0:21:09At age 19, Livingstone was promoted and his increased salary
0:21:09 > 0:21:12enabled him to save to study medicine at University.
0:21:12 > 0:21:15He became a missionary doctor and, in 1841,
0:21:15 > 0:21:19was posted to the edge of the Kalahari desert.
0:21:19 > 0:21:20He made it his mission
0:21:20 > 0:21:22to fight against the evils of the slave trade.
0:21:22 > 0:21:29This is a letter he wrote to his son. It's very religious in tone.
0:21:29 > 0:21:32It starts, "I hope you're a good boy and remembering your Creator,
0:21:32 > 0:21:35"and his son, Jesus, with love, every day of your life."
0:21:35 > 0:21:39So religion is really what drove Livingstone in Africa.
0:21:39 > 0:21:43Yes, although he later expanded this to both his crusade against
0:21:43 > 0:21:48the slave trade and his ideas of how Africa could develop economically.
0:21:48 > 0:21:52He believed that fair trade, along with the end of the slave trade,
0:21:52 > 0:21:57could bring peace and prosperity to many regions of Africa.
0:21:57 > 0:22:01In 1852, Livingstone began a four-year expedition to find
0:22:01 > 0:22:04a route from the Upper Zambezi to the coast.
0:22:04 > 0:22:07He travelled through swamps and nearly died from disease.
0:22:09 > 0:22:14In 1965, naturalist David Attenborough retraced
0:22:14 > 0:22:16the great man's footsteps.
0:22:17 > 0:22:19And so he came to this spot
0:22:19 > 0:22:23and looked right over the very edge of the falls.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25The first white man ever to do so.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28Even today, this spot is seldom visited
0:22:28 > 0:22:31because in order to get to it, you have to weave your way through
0:22:31 > 0:22:36the rapids just above the edge of the falls and when you contemplate
0:22:36 > 0:22:40what lies immediately ahead this can be a little alarming.
0:22:40 > 0:22:44Until then, Livingstone had used only local geographical
0:22:44 > 0:22:48names for his discoveries, but here for the first time
0:22:48 > 0:22:53he broke with tradition and called these the Victoria Falls.
0:22:53 > 0:22:56- And this is how he found his way. - This is his sextant.
0:22:56 > 0:23:00So he used this to calculate latitude and longitude
0:23:00 > 0:23:03and he was very accurate, despite having no formal training.
0:23:03 > 0:23:06Because of the measurements he took we can actually trace his
0:23:06 > 0:23:08position every day to within about half a mile.
0:23:11 > 0:23:13But perhaps what sealed Livingstone's fame
0:23:13 > 0:23:17in Victorian Britain was his escape from the jaws of a lion.
0:23:17 > 0:23:20ROARING
0:23:22 > 0:23:25When his body was examined years later, his identity was
0:23:25 > 0:23:28verified by his damaged arm bone.
0:23:30 > 0:23:34Livingstone died of malaria and dysentery in 1873.
0:23:36 > 0:23:38His heart was buried in Africa,
0:23:38 > 0:23:42but his body was laid to rest in Westminster Abbey.
0:23:44 > 0:23:47David Livingstone was the perfect Victorian hero.
0:23:47 > 0:23:51The Christian self-made man opposed to slavery with modern
0:23:51 > 0:23:52ideas on economy.
0:23:52 > 0:23:56A brave and ambitious explorer who took the British flag to the
0:23:56 > 0:23:59darkest corners of the earth.
0:23:59 > 0:24:01He was a lion amongst men.
0:24:08 > 0:24:10My journey continues south,
0:24:10 > 0:24:12this time for a short 15-minute hop to Larkhall
0:24:12 > 0:24:15before carrying on to Strathaven.
0:24:26 > 0:24:30Situated on the edge of the Avon Valley, Bradshaw's notes its
0:24:30 > 0:24:33fine reputation for weavers and horses.
0:24:33 > 0:24:37It's also a home to Scotland's oldest bakery.
0:24:37 > 0:24:41And I'm meeting its baker, Barry Taylor.
0:24:41 > 0:24:45Barry, in the mid-19th century, in the west of Scotland,
0:24:45 > 0:24:48would the working man and woman have had access to good bread?
0:24:48 > 0:24:50I believe so, yes, on a local basis,
0:24:50 > 0:24:54little bakeries working on the corners.
0:24:54 > 0:24:59As I came in the door I see that the business has been here from 1820.
0:24:59 > 0:25:01- A family business?- It is, yes.
0:25:01 > 0:25:06I am the sixth generation of Taylors to take the helm here.
0:25:06 > 0:25:08We have been in the same premises,
0:25:08 > 0:25:10albeit it has changed over the years.
0:25:10 > 0:25:14Our family were farmers outside Strathaven.
0:25:14 > 0:25:19And one of the family decided to be a baker. And good on him.
0:25:19 > 0:25:20It's a good decision.
0:25:21 > 0:25:24And keeping up with the family, Barry makes a point of using
0:25:24 > 0:25:28traditional unrefined grains, such as spelt.
0:25:30 > 0:25:35We are going to get stuck into this as a Victorian baker would.
0:25:35 > 0:25:39- That's a lovely sticky mess, isn't it?- It is.
0:25:39 > 0:25:43But hopefully by the end of all its manipulation it should be
0:25:43 > 0:25:45a lovely smooth dough.
0:25:45 > 0:25:49And this point you can perceive how hard making bread on a big
0:25:49 > 0:25:50scale would be.
0:25:50 > 0:25:52I am finding it pretty hard work now.
0:25:54 > 0:25:58I think we can safely say that you have produced a sticky mess.
0:25:59 > 0:26:03But one which we can make into something beautiful, I assure you.
0:26:05 > 0:26:08Victorian bakers worked over 100 hours a week
0:26:08 > 0:26:12in gruelling temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
0:26:12 > 0:26:15Basically you need to fold and stretch,
0:26:15 > 0:26:19but what you want to avoid is tearing the structure of it.
0:26:19 > 0:26:21Yikes!
0:26:22 > 0:26:26We are going to start, really gently, fold the dough.
0:26:26 > 0:26:34You can repeatedly fold over a piece of dough, gently squeezing it,
0:26:34 > 0:26:36but not tearing it
0:26:36 > 0:26:39and you will end up with something that is a super-smooth-looking dough.
0:26:39 > 0:26:41- Hmm!- OK!
0:26:41 > 0:26:43And there is always a point
0:26:43 > 0:26:46when a dough says to you that it's had enough.
0:26:46 > 0:26:50And I believe that was about two minutes ago.
0:26:53 > 0:26:57Thankfully, I don't have to trust my bread to a Victorian
0:26:57 > 0:26:59range with its fluctuating temperatures.
0:27:03 > 0:27:06After 40 minutes, the loaves are ready.
0:27:06 > 0:27:10'And that fantastic aroma helps me to understand
0:27:10 > 0:27:14'the good odour in which each generation of Taylors was held.'
0:27:14 > 0:27:18I had no idea that spelt smelt so good!
0:27:24 > 0:27:28At the end of the 19th-century, Glasgow produced half Britain's
0:27:28 > 0:27:32tonnage of shipping and a quarter of the world's locomotives.
0:27:32 > 0:27:35As the second city of the British Empire, it became
0:27:35 > 0:27:38a centre of culture and design.
0:27:38 > 0:27:41With its art school and Charles Rennie Mackintosh,
0:27:41 > 0:27:46pride in the city swelled as surely as a spelt loaf.
0:27:52 > 0:27:55'Next time I meet the kings of molten metal...'
0:27:57 > 0:28:00Oh, my goodness. That is an extraordinary sight.
0:28:00 > 0:28:03- Absolutely vast, isn't it?- Yeah. - What a scale this was built on.
0:28:03 > 0:28:07'..uncover the Victorian love affair with Scotland...'
0:28:07 > 0:28:11Everybody came to the Falls of Clyde specifically to see Corra Linn,
0:28:11 > 0:28:12the largest waterfall,
0:28:12 > 0:28:15and the largest waterfall in Britain as well.
0:28:15 > 0:28:17'..and visit the home of a mighty brew.'
0:28:17 > 0:28:22It's still a family secret. I had passed down to me by my father
0:28:22 > 0:28:25and I've now passed it through to my daughter.