0:00:02 > 0:00:04Pubs have been at the heart of Britain for hundreds of years.
0:00:04 > 0:00:06Cheers, mucker!
0:00:06 > 0:00:09- In city taverns... - And village inns.
0:00:09 > 0:00:13Landlords have pulled pints for locals, travellers and, well,
0:00:13 > 0:00:15the odd king or two, myself included.
0:00:15 > 0:00:17Try and have a drink now.
0:00:18 > 0:00:20- Oh! - LAUGHTER
0:00:20 > 0:00:25But with 30 pubs closing every week, our historic taverns need defending.
0:00:25 > 0:00:27Step! Step!
0:00:27 > 0:00:29We're heading out to discover amazing stories
0:00:29 > 0:00:31linked to the nation's watering holes.
0:00:31 > 0:00:33- Not far to go.- How far?
0:00:33 > 0:00:36- Oh, a couple of miles.- What?!
0:00:36 > 0:00:38From the Wars of the Roses...
0:00:38 > 0:00:42To shipbuilding on the Clyde, we've ditched our bikes
0:00:42 > 0:00:44so that we can sample an ale or two.
0:00:44 > 0:00:45Get in!
0:00:45 > 0:00:47This is very good!
0:00:47 > 0:00:49THEY LAUGH
0:00:49 > 0:00:50So, join us for...
0:00:58 > 0:01:03Today, we're in Yorkshire and itching for a 17th-century fight.
0:01:03 > 0:01:07We're here to find out about the bloodiest battle
0:01:07 > 0:01:08in the English Civil War.
0:01:08 > 0:01:11And the pubs caught up in the crossfire.
0:01:14 > 0:01:17Picture the scene - it's 1644, the Civil War,
0:01:17 > 0:01:20and we've signed up to fight with Oliver Cromwell and his army.
0:01:20 > 0:01:24Aye, we're going to battle against King Charles I.
0:01:24 > 0:01:28- But first, we're off to the pub for a swift half.- Are we?
0:01:28 > 0:01:32Aye, that's what soldiers did before a battle - Dutch courage!
0:01:32 > 0:01:34- I can't say I blame them, can you?- No!- Whoa!
0:01:37 > 0:01:40We're heading back to the mid-1600s.
0:01:40 > 0:01:43Charles I had decided to rule England alone
0:01:43 > 0:01:45without the help of Parliament.
0:01:45 > 0:01:50Not surprisingly, Parliament was peeved and, by 1642,
0:01:50 > 0:01:53it had had enough. Civil war broke out.
0:01:56 > 0:01:59The war raged for nine years with the King's forces
0:01:59 > 0:02:04fighting the Parliamentarian army across the country.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07But the story we're telling today is that of the biggest
0:02:07 > 0:02:12and most important battle - Marston Moor, fought near York in 1644.
0:02:15 > 0:02:18First stop, a pub in the market town of Otley
0:02:18 > 0:02:20to check out their stories and their beer.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24It's a tough job, but somebody's got to do it.
0:02:24 > 0:02:27Eeh, Otley - a right proper Yorkshire town
0:02:27 > 0:02:31- and it's a proper Yorkshire pub. - It looks right good, our kid!
0:02:31 > 0:02:34And The Black Bull - do you know, it's the oldest pub in Otley?
0:02:34 > 0:02:38- It's as old as the Civil War itself. - Really, almost 400 years?
0:02:38 > 0:02:40- That's got to be a lot of old bull. - No.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43Well, that's what we're here to find out. Come on, trot on.
0:02:45 > 0:02:47Just over 370 years ago,
0:02:47 > 0:02:51locals hoping for a quiet pint were in for a bit of a shock
0:02:51 > 0:02:55when the Parliamentarian army turned up for a pre-battle beverage.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00Here to tell us more and give us a quick Civil War crash course
0:03:00 > 0:03:03is historian Dr Andy Hopper.
0:03:03 > 0:03:06- Crikey! It's quite a way down into this pub, Kingy.- Isn't it?
0:03:06 > 0:03:10- Hello, Andy. Dave, nice to meet you. - Andy, how are you? Nice to meet you.
0:03:10 > 0:03:13- Not bad, thanks. - You've got them in, God love you.
0:03:13 > 0:03:16So, Andy, do tell us about this pub's role in the English Civil War.
0:03:16 > 0:03:20Well, the story is that the Parliamentarians came here
0:03:20 > 0:03:23the night before the battle and drank the pub dry.
0:03:24 > 0:03:27You can see the outline of the old door that was there
0:03:27 > 0:03:30during the Civil War, through which the soldiers would have entered.
0:03:30 > 0:03:33That's amazing. That really is like a portal into the past,
0:03:33 > 0:03:35a door into history.
0:03:35 > 0:03:39So, Andy, when I was a little lad, I had the little Ladybird books
0:03:39 > 0:03:41that always talked about the battles
0:03:41 > 0:03:43between the Roundheads and the Cavaliers.
0:03:43 > 0:03:47Can you explain what's a Roundhead and what's a Cavalier?
0:03:47 > 0:03:50Well, they originated as terms of abuse,
0:03:50 > 0:03:53so Cavalier comes from the Spanish "caballero",
0:03:53 > 0:03:54meaning "horseman",
0:03:54 > 0:03:57and we all know what Englishmen thought of the Spanish at this time.
0:03:57 > 0:04:01- Yes. - Roundhead is a social snub, a sneer,
0:04:01 > 0:04:04an insult suggesting all the Parliamentarians
0:04:04 > 0:04:08are London apprentice boys who had their hair cropped short
0:04:08 > 0:04:11as a sign of their lower status.
0:04:12 > 0:04:16So, we've got the Cavaliers, or Royalists, on the King's side
0:04:16 > 0:04:19and the Roundheads, or Parliamentarians, on the other.
0:04:20 > 0:04:21Is it fair to think
0:04:21 > 0:04:24that the aristocrats of the land were Royalists
0:04:24 > 0:04:28and the ordinary people of Otley were Parliamentarians, then?
0:04:28 > 0:04:30Well, not exactly.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33A lot of nobles did support the King,
0:04:33 > 0:04:36a lot of gentry families, but there were some on Parliament's side, too,
0:04:36 > 0:04:39so the wars really split the nation.
0:04:39 > 0:04:42They split families, they split communities.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45Here, Andy, I think Si would make a good Cavalier
0:04:45 > 0:04:48with his luscious locks and his airs and graces, don't you?
0:04:48 > 0:04:50Are you going to take that from him?
0:04:50 > 0:04:52Absolutely not!
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- There he is with his dandy's clothes and all loveliness...- No, no...
0:04:55 > 0:04:57Driving a Bentley.
0:04:57 > 0:04:59No, Kingy, I've always been a man of the people
0:04:59 > 0:05:03and I don't care what they call it - Roundhead through and through.
0:05:03 > 0:05:06No - SLAPHEAD through and through!
0:05:06 > 0:05:12Hey, Kingy, keep it civil, like the war. Get it?
0:05:12 > 0:05:15Anyway, back to the battle.
0:05:15 > 0:05:19The Parliamentarian soldiers that were billeted here,
0:05:19 > 0:05:21they were on their way to a big battle, weren't they?
0:05:21 > 0:05:23Yeah, Marston Moor was the biggest
0:05:23 > 0:05:25and bloodiest battle of the civil wars.
0:05:25 > 0:05:28It was about controlling the north and seizing York.
0:05:28 > 0:05:32York was the north's capital, under control of the King.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35Strategically, the Roundheads needed to take the city,
0:05:35 > 0:05:39but the King's men were marching west from York to take them on.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45Meanwhile, the Roundhead soldiers in Otley,
0:05:45 > 0:05:48unaware of the looming battle, supped their pints.
0:05:49 > 0:05:52Probably by this 16th century fire,
0:05:52 > 0:05:56believed to have been discovered when the pub was renovated.
0:05:56 > 0:06:00And it's not the only discovery, according to landlady Audrey.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03It seems that some Roundheads left for battle
0:06:03 > 0:06:05without a crucial bit of kit.
0:06:05 > 0:06:08A pub can bring a Roundhead like me
0:06:08 > 0:06:11and a Cavalier like him together. It's the glue that binds.
0:06:11 > 0:06:13Aye, it is, yeah.
0:06:13 > 0:06:15In fact, you probably don't know this,
0:06:15 > 0:06:17but when they did a renovation a few years ago,
0:06:17 > 0:06:20they actually found some armour here.
0:06:20 > 0:06:21- You're joking?- Really?- Yeah.
0:06:21 > 0:06:24Stephen, who is a local of ours, he'll know more about it.
0:06:24 > 0:06:28- He's a historian.- Hello, Stephen, Dave.- Hello.- Nice to meet you.
0:06:28 > 0:06:31- And you, hello.- There you were in the corner there.
0:06:31 > 0:06:32I know, I'm hiding away.
0:06:33 > 0:06:38So, did some poor Parliamentarian soul leave his armour upstairs?
0:06:38 > 0:06:40In 1981, I received a phone call.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43The local landlord had found some armour
0:06:43 > 0:06:46whilst restoring a room upstairs.
0:06:46 > 0:06:50- He tapped the wall and found a cavity.- Wow!
0:06:50 > 0:06:55I came over and he brought down two sacks of armour.
0:06:55 > 0:07:01- The form of armour dates directly to that period.- Right.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03Well, it absolutely validates, then,
0:07:03 > 0:07:08the connection between the Civil War and this pub. How fantastic!
0:07:08 > 0:07:10- And this pub and the Battle of Marston Moor.- Yeah.
0:07:10 > 0:07:14The armour, which has since been sold to collectors
0:07:14 > 0:07:16for thousands of pounds,
0:07:16 > 0:07:19is thought to have been left as payment for beer.
0:07:19 > 0:07:21Can you imagine that, Kingy,
0:07:21 > 0:07:23settling your tab by pawning your armour?
0:07:23 > 0:07:26You'd have to be really drunk to do that, wouldn't you?
0:07:26 > 0:07:30- Or very stupid.- Yes.- Yes.
0:07:30 > 0:07:33'Stephen's brought in some Roundhead helmets,
0:07:33 > 0:07:36'just like the ones found upstairs.'
0:07:36 > 0:07:39This gives us at least an idea of what you've found
0:07:39 > 0:07:42and if the hat fits, Mr Myers, I think you should wear it.
0:07:42 > 0:07:44What do you reckon?
0:07:44 > 0:07:46I think they had smaller heads in those days.
0:07:46 > 0:07:49- I think they probably did. Ooh! - Ooh!- No, hold on.
0:07:49 > 0:07:53I don't think they had glasses in the Civil War, did they? Hold on.
0:07:54 > 0:07:57Do you know what? That's the first hat you've had that suits you.
0:07:57 > 0:07:59LAUGHTER
0:07:59 > 0:08:03Audrey, landlady, I've got 300 mates outside.
0:08:03 > 0:08:05I'll swap you my helmet for 300 pints.
0:08:05 > 0:08:06Look after the lads, we'll look after you.
0:08:06 > 0:08:10That'll definitely sup the pub dry, wouldn't it? Crikey!
0:08:10 > 0:08:13Don't you know there's a war on? THEY LAUGH
0:08:16 > 0:08:17Try and have a drink now.
0:08:19 > 0:08:21- Oh! - LAUGHTER
0:08:21 > 0:08:27- Do you do straws, landlady?- I do feel I'm living history now.- Ooh!
0:08:29 > 0:08:31- Thank you.- My pleasure.
0:08:31 > 0:08:36- Well, cheers to Roundheads and cheers to Cavaliers.- Cheers.
0:08:36 > 0:08:39- Seagoing parrots and us.- Cheers!
0:08:40 > 0:08:42'It's all fun and games now,
0:08:42 > 0:08:45'but the war was no laughing matter at the time.'
0:08:45 > 0:08:47I tell you what, though, Dave, as nice as that was,
0:08:47 > 0:08:49here's a sobering fact for you.
0:08:49 > 0:08:51Did you know, mate, that a higher proportion
0:08:51 > 0:08:55of the British population died during the English Civil War
0:08:55 > 0:08:57than in any other wars?
0:08:57 > 0:08:59Surely not the First and Second World Wars?
0:08:59 > 0:09:00Astonishingly, yeah, it is -
0:09:00 > 0:09:04one in ten of the adult male population died,
0:09:04 > 0:09:06which was five times that of World War II.
0:09:06 > 0:09:11- Good grief, that certainly makes you think, doesn't it?- Doesn't it?- Aye.
0:09:11 > 0:09:16Probably time for some light relief. Pub signs - every pub has one.
0:09:18 > 0:09:22- And every sign has a story. - Here's some of our York favourites.
0:09:24 > 0:09:28The Three-Legged Mare, known as The Wonky Donkey to locals,
0:09:28 > 0:09:31is a charming device used to hang three people all at once.
0:09:31 > 0:09:35There's even a replica in the beer garden.
0:09:35 > 0:09:37Beats having bouncers, I suppose!
0:09:37 > 0:09:41Workmen at The Golden Slipper found a 14th-century shoe
0:09:41 > 0:09:45hidden in the pub walls - apparently to repel evil spirits!
0:09:45 > 0:09:49Hmm, well, mate, if it's powerfully repellent and smells medieval,
0:09:49 > 0:09:51then it's probably yours, mucker.
0:09:53 > 0:09:54Named after the little alleyways,
0:09:54 > 0:09:56or snickets as they're known round here,
0:09:56 > 0:10:01The Snickleway Inn is so haunted, it boasts FIVE supernatural spirits.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04In that case, I'll take a poltergeist with my pint
0:10:04 > 0:10:05and a pickled egg, landlord.
0:10:10 > 0:10:14Back on our Civil War trail, it's time to down tankards,
0:10:14 > 0:10:15pick up arms...
0:10:15 > 0:10:19And prepare for one of the bloodiest battles on British soil.
0:10:20 > 0:10:24Right, you Royalist rogue, it's time to FIGHT!
0:10:24 > 0:10:27- I'm off to Marston Moor to get my armour.- Oh, are you?
0:10:27 > 0:10:29I am going to take up the invitation
0:10:29 > 0:10:32of a fellow in a very large and posh castle.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- Right, I'm off.- Really?
0:10:36 > 0:10:40Right, we've picked our sides. While Myers heads east
0:10:40 > 0:10:43to join his Roundhead band of brothers at Marston Moor...
0:10:45 > 0:10:48..I've come to splendid Ripley Castle, north of Harrogate,
0:10:48 > 0:10:50to meet Sir Thomas Ingilby,
0:10:50 > 0:10:54whose Royalist rellies got right stuck in defending the King.
0:10:55 > 0:10:59- Sir Thomas, how do you do, sir? - Very pleased to meet you.
0:10:59 > 0:11:00And you, very pleased to meet you, too.
0:11:00 > 0:11:02What a magnificent place Ripley Castle is!
0:11:02 > 0:11:05- We're very lucky, it's so beautiful. - It is indeed, it is indeed.
0:11:05 > 0:11:07And how long have your family lived here?
0:11:07 > 0:11:11Just over 700 years and, trust me, it feels like that!
0:11:11 > 0:11:16So, actually, your ancestors would have fought in the Civil War, then?
0:11:16 > 0:11:18They did indeed.
0:11:18 > 0:11:20Sir William Ingilby fought at the Battle of Marston Moor
0:11:20 > 0:11:23and we've got his portrait inside if you'd like to see it.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26Oh, I'd love that! I think we'd all love that, that'd be fantastic.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29- Excellent! Follow me. - I will, sir, thank you.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32'The Ingilbys raised a troop of horses to fight at Marston.
0:11:32 > 0:11:35'Unlike those Roundhead lushes in the pub,
0:11:35 > 0:11:38'they managed to keep hold of their armour.
0:11:38 > 0:11:42'And it was worn by one very surprising soldier,
0:11:42 > 0:11:45'closely related to the lord of the manor.'
0:11:45 > 0:11:47What a fantastic house!
0:11:47 > 0:11:51Ah, so this is the fellow! This is the man.
0:11:51 > 0:11:53This is it - Sir William Ingilby,
0:11:53 > 0:11:55who fought at the Battle of Marston Moor,
0:11:55 > 0:11:58- and his sister Jane also fought there.- Did you say Jane?
0:11:58 > 0:12:01- Yes.- Right.
0:12:01 > 0:12:05His sister Jane went to Marston Moor disguised as a man,
0:12:05 > 0:12:08wearing a full suit of armour, and was slightly wounded at the battle.
0:12:08 > 0:12:13What a good lass! Proper northern girl, that! Get stuck in!
0:12:13 > 0:12:16She was a very redoubtable character.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18She was initially known as Trooper Jane and then,
0:12:18 > 0:12:21in later references, they call her Captain Jane
0:12:21 > 0:12:24so she not only fought, but was actually promoted as well.
0:12:24 > 0:12:28Crikey! If you could only bottle that Cavalier courage!
0:12:28 > 0:12:31Hold on, come to think of it, Sir Thomas has
0:12:31 > 0:12:35and it's based on an old family beer recipe.
0:12:35 > 0:12:39This is a recipe book from the period,
0:12:39 > 0:12:41which was written by Mrs Elizabeth Eden,
0:12:41 > 0:12:43the head housekeeper at the castle.
0:12:43 > 0:12:45So we gave the recipe to a local brewer
0:12:45 > 0:12:50and they had a play round with it and we've actually bottled it now
0:12:50 > 0:12:55and it's about the only part of my heritage that makes me any money.
0:12:55 > 0:12:59- And Crack Shot - why Crack Shot? - Named after Trooper Jane Ingilby.
0:12:59 > 0:13:04- Because?- Because she was a crack shot. She had two pistols.
0:13:04 > 0:13:07- Oh, that is fantastic!- A lady to die for.- A lady to die for!
0:13:07 > 0:13:10Well, a lady to run away from, if you ask me!
0:13:10 > 0:13:14'Those Roundheads wouldn't stand a chance against Trooper Jane.
0:13:14 > 0:13:15'Good luck, Mr Myers.'
0:13:17 > 0:13:19'Luck? I don't need luck.
0:13:19 > 0:13:23'Us Roundheads have skill...and beer!'
0:13:23 > 0:13:25The beer you get up here - cor, bad stuff!
0:13:25 > 0:13:29It'll taste better after a victory, my man, better after a victory.
0:13:29 > 0:13:32'I'm joining pikemen Derek and Robert
0:13:32 > 0:13:34'at the site of the Battle of Marston Moor.
0:13:34 > 0:13:39'These chaps eat, drink and breathe Civil War re-enactment.'
0:13:39 > 0:13:43Gadzooks, gentlemen, what are you drinking?
0:13:43 > 0:13:46It's ale, but it's very, very, very weak.
0:13:47 > 0:13:49Ooh, it's well watery, isn't it?
0:13:49 > 0:13:52Well, they've probably watered it down as well, knowing this army.
0:13:52 > 0:13:54You're here on Marston Moor.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57Would the soldiers have drank before they battled?
0:13:57 > 0:14:00- They would always get as much down them as possible.- Uh-huh, uh-huh.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03You never know when you're going to get another one, if at all.
0:14:03 > 0:14:04That's true, it's true.
0:14:04 > 0:14:06And you, gentlemen, we're all on the right side,
0:14:06 > 0:14:08the Parliamentarian side.
0:14:08 > 0:14:10Is this what the soldiers would have worn, then?
0:14:10 > 0:14:15- Yes, this is a pikeman's outfit. - And, Derek, this is a pike.- Yeah.
0:14:15 > 0:14:19It's long, isn't it? I didn't think they were this length, the pike.
0:14:19 > 0:14:25- Yep, that's 16ft.- Cor! So, what was the job of the pikemen?
0:14:25 > 0:14:29The main job was to protect the other foot soldiers,
0:14:29 > 0:14:35the musketeers, from the cavalry and to hold ground on the battlefield.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38- It would be an impenetrable barrier, wouldn't it?- And that's the point.
0:14:38 > 0:14:41'The Royalist cavalry would have been faced
0:14:41 > 0:14:46'with up to 6,000 pikemen - a truly fearsome sight.'
0:14:48 > 0:14:51One thing that I'm learning very quickly about the English Civil War
0:14:51 > 0:14:55is the scale of the battle, the scale of the conflict.
0:14:55 > 0:15:00- I had no idea. It was a huge, huge piece of British history.- Oh, yes.
0:15:01 > 0:15:04'On the evening of July 2nd 1644,
0:15:04 > 0:15:08'nearly 50,000 men gathered in this Yorkshire field.
0:15:08 > 0:15:12'At stake, control of the north.
0:15:12 > 0:15:14'That's 50,000 men...plus one.'
0:15:16 > 0:15:20I tell you what, lads, the armour's quite restrictive!
0:15:22 > 0:15:26- Pikeman Myers reporting for duty, sir.- Ah!- Ah!- There's a friend.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29Reinforcements!
0:15:29 > 0:15:32- This armour...- Do you know what one of these is?- That's a pike, sir.
0:15:32 > 0:15:37- Have you used one of these? - I was good at javelin at school.
0:15:37 > 0:15:40'We might just be three men in a field,
0:15:40 > 0:15:43'but, on the day of the battle, there would have been
0:15:43 > 0:15:47'up to 28,000 of us Roundheads stretching almost a mile.'
0:15:50 > 0:15:53Derek, in the teeth of the battle,
0:15:53 > 0:15:56this must have been truly terrifying.
0:15:56 > 0:15:57It was really terrifying,
0:15:57 > 0:16:00expecting that people are coming forward to you.
0:16:00 > 0:16:05They'd come closer and closer and closer and closer
0:16:05 > 0:16:07until you could see the whites of their eyes.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10'Armed with just a pointy stick,
0:16:10 > 0:16:13'the pikemen would have faced a row of gun-wielding musketeers.'
0:16:13 > 0:16:15MUSKET FIRE
0:16:15 > 0:16:18Bang!
0:16:18 > 0:16:23And a whole mass of smoke comes rolling over. You're a pikeman.
0:16:23 > 0:16:29You're a defence and you've got them firing at you. You want to run away.
0:16:29 > 0:16:34"Fear none but the Lord, sir! Stand your ground!"
0:16:34 > 0:16:37And, again, another volley of fire and another volley of fire
0:16:37 > 0:16:39and your men are falling around you.
0:16:39 > 0:16:42'While we pikemen stood our ground, the cavalry,
0:16:42 > 0:16:47'led by Lieutenant General Oliver Cromwell, charged the Royalists.'
0:16:47 > 0:16:49- GUNSHOT - The musket - another volley.
0:16:49 > 0:16:54There's smoke, you can't see. You taste the flames in the air.
0:16:54 > 0:16:55- BUGLE PLAYS - You get the order -
0:16:55 > 0:16:57charge your pike.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- And down.- Charge, men! - And they're running.
0:17:02 > 0:17:05- Another fire...- Aargh!
0:17:05 > 0:17:07Guys are dying by your side.
0:17:07 > 0:17:12The officer shouts, "Move into the place of the dead! Move on!
0:17:12 > 0:17:18"March on!" Step! Step! Step!
0:17:18 > 0:17:20And now the musketeers are coming in.
0:17:23 > 0:17:25Fire!
0:17:27 > 0:17:28Recover.
0:17:30 > 0:17:32The power of the musket!
0:17:32 > 0:17:36You can imagine, Derek, the carnage, with 20,000 muskets going off.
0:17:36 > 0:17:40It must have been terrifying with the smoke and the noise.
0:17:40 > 0:17:44The thing is, at the end of the day, we Parliamentarians won,
0:17:44 > 0:17:48thanks to muskets, pikes, Cromwell's cavalry.
0:17:48 > 0:17:50We smashed the Cavaliers' lines.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53I think we've earned a victory pint.
0:17:54 > 0:17:56- We'll go for a pint, sir. - Thank you very much.
0:17:56 > 0:17:59The beer's on me. Thank you so much.
0:17:59 > 0:18:03'After two hours, the bloodiest battle of the Civil War was over.
0:18:03 > 0:18:07'The Parliamentarians lost just 300 men,
0:18:07 > 0:18:12'the Royalists over 3,000 and they lost the north.'
0:18:18 > 0:18:20But the day wasn't quite over yet
0:18:20 > 0:18:23for Royalists Sir William and sister Jane.
0:18:23 > 0:18:27After their defeat at Marston, they fled back to Ripley Castle.
0:18:29 > 0:18:33Good grief! That's not easy to get off, is it?
0:18:33 > 0:18:36So, William Ingilby, he comes back to Ripley Castle.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39He's taken his armour off, which, I have to say,
0:18:39 > 0:18:44- is not the easiest thing to do.- Not quite.- And then what happens?
0:18:44 > 0:18:47To his utter horror, a short while later,
0:18:47 > 0:18:49who should turn up at the front gates
0:18:49 > 0:18:53- but the rebel general Oliver Cromwell?- What?!
0:18:53 > 0:18:57Yeah. He was demanding shelter for the night in the castle.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00Sir William leapt into a secret hiding place,
0:19:00 > 0:19:04leaving his sister, Captain Jane, to sort Cromwell out.
0:19:04 > 0:19:09Hold on, hold on - so, he scarpered and hid
0:19:09 > 0:19:13and left the woman to go and open the front gates to Cromwell
0:19:13 > 0:19:14to tell him to get to lost?
0:19:14 > 0:19:17Yes, absolutely, and, at first,
0:19:17 > 0:19:20flatly refused to allow Cromwell or his men anywhere near the castle,
0:19:20 > 0:19:24saying that she strongly intended to defend the place against allcomers.
0:19:24 > 0:19:27- Really?- And, thankfully, they reached a compromise,
0:19:27 > 0:19:29which was that Cromwell was allowed to spend the night
0:19:29 > 0:19:31in the castle library,
0:19:31 > 0:19:35but only if Trooper Jane was allowed to sit opposite him
0:19:35 > 0:19:39with her two pistols on her lap to prevent him
0:19:39 > 0:19:41from searching the house for her brother,
0:19:41 > 0:19:45who she knew was concealed upstairs, and also to preserve her own virtue.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47But just imagine how he took this.
0:19:47 > 0:19:50I mean, there he was, having just won the greatest military victory
0:19:50 > 0:19:53of his career, destroyed the King's armies in the north of England,
0:19:53 > 0:19:56then finding himself held at gunpoint by a woman.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59I mean, he could hardly race outside the following morning and say,
0:19:59 > 0:20:02"You'll never guess what happened to me last night, lads!"
0:20:02 > 0:20:09Out of interest, then, where did Sir William hide?
0:20:09 > 0:20:11He hid just in the priests' hiding place,
0:20:11 > 0:20:15which we only found completely by mistake in 1964.
0:20:15 > 0:20:18'Priest holes were secret hiding places
0:20:18 > 0:20:22'built during the Elizabethan era, when Catholicism was outlawed.'
0:20:24 > 0:20:26And here is the secret priests' hiding place.
0:20:28 > 0:20:29Wow!
0:20:29 > 0:20:33Well, it's got a small seat inside, a small air vent,
0:20:33 > 0:20:36and poor Sir William must have spent the whole night in there.
0:20:36 > 0:20:38So, have you ever been in, Sir Thomas?
0:20:38 > 0:20:41Yes, I have, and it's not particularly comfortable,
0:20:41 > 0:20:45although it's now mainly occupied when the VAT man comes to inspect.
0:20:45 > 0:20:49- SI LAUGHS - No change there, then!
0:20:49 > 0:20:52'There's a chap that can tell a cracking tale.
0:20:52 > 0:20:55'It goes to show history doesn't have to come from books.'
0:20:56 > 0:21:00Indeed, our great British boozers are packed full of tales.
0:21:00 > 0:21:04Time to meet a local who loves talking about his local.
0:21:08 > 0:21:10Meet retired postie Dennis.
0:21:10 > 0:21:13He loves his history as much as he loves his local,
0:21:13 > 0:21:16Ye Olde White Harte in Hull.
0:21:16 > 0:21:20I just love the place. Everything's spot on.
0:21:20 > 0:21:22Yeah, I just love it, yeah, yeah.
0:21:22 > 0:21:25This pub is heaving with revolutionary history,
0:21:25 > 0:21:28but blink and you might miss it.
0:21:30 > 0:21:31The fact it's down an alleyway
0:21:31 > 0:21:35and especially with it being in the town centre makes it unique.
0:21:35 > 0:21:37Lots of people don't know that it's here.
0:21:39 > 0:21:41This building's been a pub for over 200 years
0:21:41 > 0:21:45and Dennis has been drinking in it for the past 20.
0:21:45 > 0:21:48It's a traditional old pub as we know what a pub is, as regards
0:21:48 > 0:21:50all the new ones that are springing up around the town here,
0:21:50 > 0:21:52and it suits me.
0:21:52 > 0:21:56Exactly what I want when I come to a pub - friendly atmosphere,
0:21:56 > 0:21:59good staff, management OK, yes...
0:21:59 > 0:22:02LAUGHTER
0:22:02 > 0:22:05He's a right little cheeky chap, but he loves his history
0:22:05 > 0:22:07and he likes showing people round the building.
0:22:07 > 0:22:09'You can say that again!
0:22:09 > 0:22:13'Dennis takes tours around the Plotting Parlour.'
0:22:14 > 0:22:16If you just want to come on the right-hand side
0:22:16 > 0:22:18and we've got the Plotting Parlour.
0:22:18 > 0:22:21Back in the 1640s, before the Civil War,
0:22:21 > 0:22:24this building was the home of the Governor of Hull.
0:22:25 > 0:22:27Now, this chap wasn't a fan of the King
0:22:27 > 0:22:31and famously plotted against him in one of these rooms.
0:22:31 > 0:22:36A plot that's said to have kick-started the Civil War in 1642.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39They all met here in this room here
0:22:39 > 0:22:42and that's where the Plotting Parlour got its name
0:22:42 > 0:22:44and they all agreed
0:22:44 > 0:22:48that the King would not be allowed into the city gates.
0:22:48 > 0:22:50- OK?- Thank you.
0:22:50 > 0:22:53Keeping the royal hands off Hull cost the Governor his head.
0:22:53 > 0:22:57By the 1700s, his home became a pub.
0:22:57 > 0:22:58As well as the Plotting Parlour,
0:22:58 > 0:23:00there's so much history about the building.
0:23:00 > 0:23:02You can see in the fireplace here,
0:23:02 > 0:23:06where the network of tunnels used to be underneath.
0:23:06 > 0:23:09There's a small window there and that was one of the tunnels.
0:23:09 > 0:23:13That one actually led to the Holy Trinity church,
0:23:13 > 0:23:15which is about a five-minute walk round the corner.
0:23:15 > 0:23:18So, if you're popping in for a pint
0:23:18 > 0:23:23and fancy a bit of a back story with your beer, Dennis is your man.
0:23:23 > 0:23:25As regards being the history guy, yes,
0:23:25 > 0:23:28I do tend to get certain locals - there's the landlord,
0:23:28 > 0:23:29there's the bar staff -
0:23:29 > 0:23:31I've been known to have the mickey taken out of me or whatever.
0:23:31 > 0:23:34I think it's just for the fact that they cannot do it
0:23:34 > 0:23:36and I'm the only one who can actually do it
0:23:36 > 0:23:38- and I'll raise a glass to you. - APPLAUSE
0:23:38 > 0:23:40And we raise a glass to you, Dennis.
0:23:44 > 0:23:47For last orders, we've marched east of Marston Moor
0:23:47 > 0:23:49to the Royalist stronghold of York.
0:23:49 > 0:23:52We're picking up the story after the ferocious battle
0:23:52 > 0:23:56at a pub commandeered to patch up the wounded Royalist soldiers.
0:23:56 > 0:23:58There is Ye Olde Starre Inne!
0:23:58 > 0:24:01It'll be down the little-e alley-e.
0:24:01 > 0:24:02You would have missed it
0:24:02 > 0:24:06if it hadn't been for Ye Old Starre Inne sign-e thing-e.
0:24:07 > 0:24:10This pub site is the oldest in York.
0:24:10 > 0:24:13Back in 1733, the landlord struck a deal with a neighbour
0:24:13 > 0:24:16to span it across the street.
0:24:18 > 0:24:19He paid five shillings a year,
0:24:19 > 0:24:22but the money had to be spent in the pub.
0:24:22 > 0:24:23Canny, eh?
0:24:23 > 0:24:26Not easy to find, this place, is it?
0:24:26 > 0:24:29'Local author Pete Coxon is waiting to fill us in
0:24:29 > 0:24:33'on the bloody aftermath of the Royalist rout.'
0:24:33 > 0:24:36- Hello!- It's a devil to find, this place. Tucked away, isn't it?
0:24:36 > 0:24:38- How are you, Pete? - I'm fine, thank you very much.
0:24:38 > 0:24:40So, it dates back to the Civil War, this?
0:24:40 > 0:24:42Yeah, and 1644 is the exact year
0:24:42 > 0:24:44in which the Battle of Marston Moor was fought.
0:24:44 > 0:24:45Gosh! Flipping 'eck!
0:24:45 > 0:24:49Let me show you inside. There's some interesting rooms here.
0:24:53 > 0:24:54This must have been a Royalist pub,
0:24:54 > 0:24:57with York being the capital for the Royalists in the north.
0:24:57 > 0:25:00That's right and after the Battle of Marston Moor,
0:25:00 > 0:25:04the surviving Royalist soldiers headed back towards York
0:25:04 > 0:25:05and it was in this pub
0:25:05 > 0:25:07that a load of the wounded soldiers were treated.
0:25:07 > 0:25:11Yes, and why particularly was it this pub, then, Pete?
0:25:11 > 0:25:13Well, it is a big pub - lots of space.
0:25:13 > 0:25:17In fact, the cellars below us were the operating theatre
0:25:17 > 0:25:20and this room was actually the morgue,
0:25:20 > 0:25:22where they brought the bodies up
0:25:22 > 0:25:24of the people who didn't survive the operations.
0:25:24 > 0:25:27Cos some of the injuries must have been so traumatic,
0:25:27 > 0:25:29what with musketballs and cannonballs.
0:25:29 > 0:25:32Well, even a musketball could do a lot of damage.
0:25:32 > 0:25:35It could smash a bone and that might mean an amputation
0:25:35 > 0:25:37and if you were in a pub like this,
0:25:37 > 0:25:40perhaps you were a little bit more fortunate than most
0:25:40 > 0:25:42because you might get a shot of brandy
0:25:42 > 0:25:45or something before the op, but, otherwise,
0:25:45 > 0:25:48a patient would just have to bite on a strap of leather
0:25:48 > 0:25:50and be held down while the surgeon went to work,
0:25:50 > 0:25:52sawing through the bone.
0:25:52 > 0:25:53- That is brutal!- Oh!
0:25:53 > 0:25:58It was grim work, often carried out by barber surgeons,
0:25:58 > 0:26:01the 17th century equivalent of war medics.
0:26:01 > 0:26:06So, this hospital was basically a bunch of hairdressers in a pub.
0:26:06 > 0:26:08On the plus side, you could get your moustache waxed
0:26:08 > 0:26:10while they took your leg off.
0:26:10 > 0:26:14That was over 370 years ago, but, since then,
0:26:14 > 0:26:17customers have witnessed some spooky goings on.
0:26:18 > 0:26:21'Former manager Stuart recalls one couple legging it
0:26:21 > 0:26:25'out of his pub after seeing a soldier stroll in.'
0:26:25 > 0:26:29What they saw was an apparition of, like,
0:26:29 > 0:26:34a Cavalier was the way they described it
0:26:34 > 0:26:36and he just walked straight past them,
0:26:36 > 0:26:40straight from this room here into the back, down the stairwell,
0:26:40 > 0:26:42which goes down to the bottom,
0:26:42 > 0:26:45which apparently was used as a billet hospital during the siege.
0:26:45 > 0:26:47Right, there you were, eating your chips,
0:26:47 > 0:26:48dipping it in your tartare sauce,
0:26:48 > 0:26:50and then there's a Cavalier that walks through
0:26:50 > 0:26:53- and disappears down to the cellar! - Precisely, yeah.
0:26:53 > 0:26:54Did you believe them, Stuart?
0:26:54 > 0:26:57You know, you're always a little bit sceptical,
0:26:57 > 0:26:59but, ultimately, cos one of them wouldn't come back in,
0:26:59 > 0:27:03he just wouldn't walk through the door and he was honest.
0:27:03 > 0:27:06You felt he was honest when he was talking to you.
0:27:06 > 0:27:09- You see, I do believe that walls have memories.- So do I.
0:27:09 > 0:27:13There must be so many memories and so much history in this building.
0:27:13 > 0:27:16I'd like to think that there was something there.
0:27:16 > 0:27:19The pubs that we've been in in this programme,
0:27:19 > 0:27:21they are so full of memories,
0:27:21 > 0:27:24so full of people's lives and so full of history.
0:27:24 > 0:27:26Absolutely, absolutely.
0:27:26 > 0:27:29Well, what a great pub and I'm pleased to see it's still here,
0:27:29 > 0:27:31- so cheers to you.- Cheers!
0:27:31 > 0:27:33You can tell he's a landlord - he doesn't drink!
0:27:33 > 0:27:36- He's a great talker, though.- Isn't he?
0:27:38 > 0:27:40From battlefield to barside,
0:27:40 > 0:27:44it's been a cracking pub crawl through England's Civil War.
0:27:45 > 0:27:47- Oh! - LAUGHTER
0:27:47 > 0:27:50Just a shame you lost, eh, Kingy?
0:27:50 > 0:27:54All right, all right, give it a rest, Myers.
0:27:54 > 0:27:56Listen up, my little spark plug,
0:27:56 > 0:27:58I've got a great pub quiz question for you.
0:27:58 > 0:28:02In days of old, when pubs like this used to brew their own beer,
0:28:02 > 0:28:05there used to be a government man called an ale-conner
0:28:05 > 0:28:07whose job it was to test the quality of the beer.
0:28:07 > 0:28:09Do you know how he tested it?
0:28:09 > 0:28:11Er, loads of free pints.
0:28:11 > 0:28:15- Nah, he used to pour some on a bench and sit in it.- Get out of it!
0:28:15 > 0:28:17It's perfectly true.
0:28:17 > 0:28:19If his leather breeches didn't stick to the bench,
0:28:19 > 0:28:22then the beer wasn't of sufficient quality, you see.
0:28:22 > 0:28:24There wasn't enough sugar in the beer!
0:28:24 > 0:28:28- Strange, but true.- Well, I never! - Cheers!- Cheers, mate, cheers!
0:28:28 > 0:28:29It's fascinating, isn't it?