0:00:02 > 0:00:05This is one of the world's most dangerous borders,
0:00:05 > 0:00:08dividing two nations - India and Pakistan.
0:00:08 > 0:00:132,000 miles long, it slices through extraordinary landscapes
0:00:13 > 0:00:17and divides millions of people who once lived alongside each other.
0:00:18 > 0:00:22I'm Babita Sharma and I'm a journalist.
0:00:22 > 0:00:24My family, as Hindus,
0:00:24 > 0:00:28were forced to move into what became independent India.
0:00:28 > 0:00:30Primarily, I identify with being British.
0:00:30 > 0:00:33That's who I am, I was born and brought up in Britain.
0:00:33 > 0:00:38But I'm also really passionate about my culture as an Indian person.
0:00:38 > 0:00:42I'm going to be travelling the border from the Indian side.
0:00:42 > 0:00:45Wow! It's mind-blowing.
0:00:45 > 0:00:48I'm Adnan Sarwar. I was in the British Army
0:00:48 > 0:00:50and now work for The Economist.
0:00:50 > 0:00:53My Muslim parents were born in what is now Pakistan.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58I've got to know what it means to be a Pakistani
0:00:58 > 0:01:01and what it means to these people here living as Pakistanis
0:01:01 > 0:01:03and what it means to my mum and dad to be Pakistanis.
0:01:03 > 0:01:06I'm going to be travelling the length of the border
0:01:06 > 0:01:10on the Pakistani side, a country that's just 70 years old.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13Have you ever seen water like this? Look at the colour of it!
0:01:13 > 0:01:16When Britain gave India its independence,
0:01:16 > 0:01:19it split the nation along religious lines,
0:01:19 > 0:01:21carving out a new Muslim state.
0:01:21 > 0:01:25Since then, there has been frequent conflict along this border
0:01:25 > 0:01:29that, to this day, very few can cross.
0:01:29 > 0:01:32You can't know Pakistan unless you know partition.
0:01:32 > 0:01:34GUNSHOT
0:01:34 > 0:01:37They're just saying, "We want independence!" "Go India!"
0:01:37 > 0:01:39"Go Pakistan!" "We just want to be free!"
0:01:39 > 0:01:43Yet after two generations apart, these two countries
0:01:43 > 0:01:45with such strong ties to Britain
0:01:45 > 0:01:48still have so much in common and so much to celebrate.
0:01:51 > 0:01:53It's fantastic. We're going to have a great night here tonight.
0:01:53 > 0:01:56My gosh, I have just found a whole new family
0:01:56 > 0:01:57I didn't even know existed!
0:01:58 > 0:02:01We're making two journeys with the same goal -
0:02:01 > 0:02:04to discover how a line on the map has altered
0:02:04 > 0:02:07the destinies of two countries that used to be one.
0:02:20 > 0:02:22I'm headed for the mighty Punjab,
0:02:22 > 0:02:25a state that was split between India and Pakistan at partition.
0:02:30 > 0:02:35It's one of huge importance to both countries and to me.
0:02:37 > 0:02:40For me now, the journey's getting very personal.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43I'm heading into Punjab, which is where my family are from.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46My mum was born in Punjab, my father was,
0:02:46 > 0:02:51my grandfathers died here and I'm just worried about
0:02:51 > 0:02:55whether or not I'm going to feel a connection to this place
0:02:55 > 0:02:57and you know that this is Punjab. We're going into Punjab.
0:02:57 > 0:02:59Look at it - it's green, it's lush.
0:02:59 > 0:03:01I'm coming home!
0:03:06 > 0:03:09I'll be travelling almost 200 miles north to Chandigarh,
0:03:09 > 0:03:13independent India's city of the future.
0:03:13 > 0:03:17Then through Amritsar, spiritual centre for the Sikh community.
0:03:17 > 0:03:22I'll end my journey in the north of Punjab at Dera Baba Nanak,
0:03:22 > 0:03:24right on the Pakistan border.
0:03:27 > 0:03:30From Rajasthan - shoe repairing, shoe polish.
0:03:30 > 0:03:32- Shoe polish?- Yes.
0:03:34 > 0:03:40- 20.- 20 rupees?- Yes. - That's about 10p.
0:03:52 > 0:03:54No.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04HE SINGS
0:04:15 > 0:04:18That is what you call a Punjabi greeting.
0:04:30 > 0:04:34I've also crossed into Punjab, but on the Pakistani side of the border.
0:04:34 > 0:04:38Like Babita and thousands of Brits, I have roots here that stretch
0:04:38 > 0:04:42all the way back to my family home, which, for me, is in Burnley.
0:04:43 > 0:04:46This is it. We've just hit the end of Sindh
0:04:46 > 0:04:47and the start of the Punjab.
0:04:47 > 0:04:50"Welcome to the Punjab."
0:04:50 > 0:04:54- How far are we from India?- About 30 miles from the Indian border.
0:04:54 > 0:05:00About 30 miles that way. And then my hometown is in Punjab.
0:05:00 > 0:05:01So we're heading north.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05I'm going to be travelling with my local producer
0:05:05 > 0:05:07and fellow Punjabi, Khalid.
0:05:07 > 0:05:10Our journey will take us along the border with India,
0:05:10 > 0:05:12visiting the city of Lahore
0:05:12 > 0:05:15and then on via Jassar to Kharian,
0:05:15 > 0:05:17my parent's hometown,
0:05:17 > 0:05:18a total of 500 miles.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24When India was divided, Pakistan got the lion's share of Punjab.
0:05:24 > 0:05:2780% of it lies on this side of the border
0:05:27 > 0:05:30and it's home to over 100 million Pakistanis,
0:05:30 > 0:05:32half the country's population.
0:05:36 > 0:05:38It's agricultural riches are legendary.
0:05:38 > 0:05:40Fed by five rivers,
0:05:40 > 0:05:44Punjab's farmland produces 20 million tonnes of wheat every year.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47But there's a new chapter beginning here.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50Pakistanis have started to harvest another of their natural resources,
0:05:50 > 0:05:53one that shows no sign of running out.
0:05:54 > 0:05:56Sunshine.
0:05:58 > 0:06:02This is the Qaid-e-Azam Solar Park, all ten square miles of it,
0:06:02 > 0:06:06and it makes a hell of a statement about where Punjab is heading.
0:06:10 > 0:06:14Nearly half of Pakistani households don't have mains electricity
0:06:14 > 0:06:18and for those that do, the supply is unreliable.
0:06:18 > 0:06:21I remember often being plunged into the dark when I visited as a kid.
0:06:23 > 0:06:27Now, the lights should stay on in 100,000 homes and businesses,
0:06:27 > 0:06:29just as long as the sun shines.
0:06:30 > 0:06:34- VOICEOVER:- Engineer Jahanzeb has been here from the beginning.
0:06:35 > 0:06:38- So there was nothing here three years ago?- Yeah, there was nothing.
0:06:38 > 0:06:40This was all just a piece of wasteland,
0:06:40 > 0:06:43just like you came here and the way you saw us.
0:06:43 > 0:06:45Just huge sand dunes,
0:06:45 > 0:06:49maybe there was a nomad herding their camels or maybe goats.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51That's it.
0:06:52 > 0:06:54This is just one part of a huge collaboration
0:06:54 > 0:06:59between Pakistan and China worth £46 billion of investment.
0:06:59 > 0:07:03The forward-thinking Jahanzeb welcomes this with open arms.
0:07:04 > 0:07:06So, what language do you speak to the Chinese in?
0:07:06 > 0:07:09At times, we had some Chinese translators who could speak Urdu...
0:07:09 > 0:07:12- Wow! - And who could speak English as well.
0:07:12 > 0:07:15But when you see a Chinese, you get a look, "OK, he's a foreigner,"
0:07:15 > 0:07:17but he does things just like you do,
0:07:17 > 0:07:21he thinks like you, and after some time, you feel like,
0:07:21 > 0:07:24"We are the same," and in the future, maybe five to ten years,
0:07:24 > 0:07:27we might have some mix here - some Chinese culture we are having
0:07:27 > 0:07:29and some Pakistani culture they are having.
0:07:30 > 0:07:32It's not all this innocent, of course.
0:07:32 > 0:07:35China's aims are strategic.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38And Pakistan, well, it needs the money.
0:07:39 > 0:07:42It's that melting pot where...
0:07:42 > 0:07:45So the Chinese are absolutely influencing Pakistan
0:07:45 > 0:07:47and Pakistan is absolutely influencing the Chinese.
0:07:47 > 0:07:50You're swapping biryanis and tea and language.
0:07:50 > 0:07:52What sells well if not technology?
0:07:54 > 0:07:57And talking of food, it's midday - time to eat.
0:07:58 > 0:08:01And there's further evidence of the Chinese influence here.
0:08:08 > 0:08:10Yeah, definitely. Sorry, what's your name?
0:08:10 > 0:08:13- My name is Kaka.- Kaka?- Yes, yes.
0:08:13 > 0:08:17- Kaka, is that Chinese? - It's Pakistan...
0:08:17 > 0:08:21- Kaka means "baby" in Punjabi. - I like this name.- OK.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26- VOICEOVER:- These guys all work together,
0:08:26 > 0:08:28but some things just don't mix -
0:08:28 > 0:08:30food in the works canteen.
0:08:30 > 0:08:34So the chef caters for both Pakistani and Chinese food.
0:08:36 > 0:08:41I'm not very good with chopsticks. If you can show me, I'll do it.
0:08:41 > 0:08:42I think I've got it.
0:08:42 > 0:08:44Oh, look, look.
0:08:44 > 0:08:46OK, OK!
0:08:46 > 0:08:47- Is that right?- Yeah.- OK.
0:08:47 > 0:08:50After lunch, Jahanzeb takes me to a place
0:08:50 > 0:08:52that's special to him -
0:08:52 > 0:08:54the tree that was his shady office
0:08:54 > 0:08:56when his plans first came to fruition.
0:08:56 > 0:08:59- My good old friend. - THEY LAUGH
0:08:59 > 0:09:03- VOICEOVER:- He's only 25, but he's already changing people's lives.
0:09:03 > 0:09:06On the way here, I saw solar panels on local homes.
0:09:06 > 0:09:09I'm imagining that the locals just call in to the centre
0:09:09 > 0:09:14- and ask for advice.- Yes, nearly every day. What should I do?
0:09:14 > 0:09:16What appliances should I connect? Is it safe?
0:09:16 > 0:09:18That's really, really good, isn't it?
0:09:18 > 0:09:21You built this as a pilot project, the knowledge seeped out
0:09:21 > 0:09:25into the local area and now everybody's getting solar panels.
0:09:25 > 0:09:29- That's it.- So the energy crisis or whatever it is, the energy problem
0:09:29 > 0:09:34that you've got is starting to solve itself because it's harder for you
0:09:34 > 0:09:37to do it for 200 million people if they start doing it for themselves.
0:09:37 > 0:09:38In a sense, yes.
0:09:38 > 0:09:41Skilled people like Jahanzeb now have more reason
0:09:41 > 0:09:43not to go abroad to work.
0:09:43 > 0:09:46I know it's a bit difficult to stay in Pakistan,
0:09:46 > 0:09:48but I think we have more scope here.
0:09:48 > 0:09:52We can go to West to do something, like, OK,
0:09:52 > 0:09:56- but I think our place is here in Pakistan.- I believe it.
0:09:56 > 0:09:59- I believe you're going to change Pakistan.- Yes.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04Pakistan's unlikely to forge an economic relationship with India
0:10:04 > 0:10:07any time soon, so they have to make friends elsewhere.
0:10:08 > 0:10:12But with China holding the real power in this special relationship,
0:10:12 > 0:10:15I wonder if Pakistan is playing with fire.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28300 miles across the border from Adnan,
0:10:28 > 0:10:31I've arrived on the Indian side of Punjab.
0:10:31 > 0:10:33We've finally got here.
0:10:33 > 0:10:37We are in Punjab and it feels so good to be here.
0:10:38 > 0:10:40- Puneet!- Babita!
0:10:40 > 0:10:43VOICEOVER: Later, I meet my local guide Puneet, who's going to give me
0:10:43 > 0:10:46a tour of this strikingly different city.
0:10:46 > 0:10:48- Good to finally see you. - It feels good to be in Punjab.
0:10:48 > 0:10:51- And here you go with your Bad Attitude.- Oh, this is my one?
0:10:51 > 0:10:54Bad Attitude - that says "bad-ass"! You know me already, right?
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- You're Punjabi.- Right, exactly.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01Cycling in London can be chaotic,
0:11:01 > 0:11:04but here, on these tree-lined boulevards, it's pure joy.
0:11:05 > 0:11:08These buildings are incredible.
0:11:08 > 0:11:10Yes, so Chandigarh was just designed like that.
0:11:10 > 0:11:13It was one of the first planned cities of India
0:11:13 > 0:11:15and it had a team of European architects
0:11:15 > 0:11:17who worked here with the Indian architects
0:11:17 > 0:11:20and tried to blend modern architecture
0:11:20 > 0:11:22with traditional materials,
0:11:22 > 0:11:25so you have really interesting designs
0:11:25 > 0:11:28because that's what they were experimenting with at that time.
0:11:28 > 0:11:31- This is all modernist. - It's beautiful, that is.
0:11:31 > 0:11:33Stunning!
0:11:34 > 0:11:36When partition split Punjab,
0:11:36 > 0:11:40its capital, Lahore, fell on the Pakistani side.
0:11:40 > 0:11:43So India's first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru,
0:11:43 > 0:11:47decided to create a new capital - a city like no other.
0:11:47 > 0:11:52In my head, Punjab's always been about farms and haystacks
0:11:52 > 0:11:54and tractors, and then boom!
0:11:54 > 0:11:59You've got this, which is modern architecture at its most brilliant.
0:11:59 > 0:12:04In 1951, Nehru invited the architect Le Corbusier,
0:12:04 > 0:12:06the father of modernism,
0:12:06 > 0:12:10to design and build a symbolic city of the future.
0:12:10 > 0:12:13Nehru's vision was for an ordered and disciplined city
0:12:13 > 0:12:15with modern Western ideals at its heart.
0:12:17 > 0:12:20It was designed for half a million people.
0:12:20 > 0:12:22Twice as many live here now,
0:12:22 > 0:12:26among them, many of the wealthy civil servants and their families.
0:12:28 > 0:12:32It has a touch of the Milton Keynes about it, complete with a sculpture
0:12:32 > 0:12:36which can be seen as either a welcoming hand or a dove of peace.
0:12:37 > 0:12:39Both work for me.
0:12:43 > 0:12:46While Babita is still exploring the capital of Indian Punjab,
0:12:46 > 0:12:51I'm on my way to the capital of Pakistani Punjab, Lahore.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58I've never been on a Pakistani train before.
0:12:58 > 0:13:00I've seen them in the films, I've seen them on telly.
0:13:00 > 0:13:03I've never been on one before. I'm really excited to get on this.
0:13:08 > 0:13:09Oh, whoa!
0:13:12 > 0:13:15The railways came to India in the mid-19th century
0:13:15 > 0:13:19and are one of the more useful legacies of the British Raj.
0:13:19 > 0:13:21They were nationalised at partition
0:13:21 > 0:13:26and now carry 65 million passengers every year in Pakistan.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45- VOICEOVER:- It's a four-hour journey so I've plenty of time
0:13:45 > 0:13:47to meet a few of my fellow travellers.
0:13:47 > 0:13:49Assalaamu Alaikum.
0:13:53 > 0:13:54They're on a preaching trip.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57So they're preaching to other people?
0:14:07 > 0:14:08Seven months, uh-huh.
0:14:45 > 0:14:48I have to admire the fact that these guys are happy
0:14:48 > 0:14:51to risk being left behind rather than miss their prayers.
0:14:51 > 0:14:53The next train to Lahore isn't for 24 hours.
0:14:55 > 0:14:57We're off.
0:15:04 > 0:15:06Whoa, whoa!
0:15:20 > 0:15:24I'm not a strict Muslim, but meeting these guys has made me
0:15:24 > 0:15:26think about what it is to be one.
0:15:27 > 0:15:30Right now, Muslims are in this very special place in the media
0:15:30 > 0:15:31where they're just picked on.
0:15:31 > 0:15:36Muslims are picked on, you can't deny that, and they're picked on
0:15:36 > 0:15:39with things like, you know, the travel ban and stuff like that.
0:15:39 > 0:15:42I am who I am. I'm not embarrassed about being Pakistani.
0:15:42 > 0:15:44I'm certainly not embarrassed about my parents.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48I'm not embarrassed where I come from because that is who I am,
0:15:48 > 0:15:50this is what I look like, this is the language I speak,
0:15:50 > 0:15:51this is where my parents are from
0:15:51 > 0:15:54and I have to find out whether I can love Pakistan
0:15:54 > 0:15:56and I have to let it be part of me as well.
0:16:00 > 0:16:02It's six o'clock in the evening
0:16:02 > 0:16:05and we've finally made it to the beating heart of Punjab.
0:16:05 > 0:16:08We're in Lahore. Look - Lahore.
0:16:10 > 0:16:11Platform 4.
0:16:12 > 0:16:14Assalaamu Alaikum.
0:16:14 > 0:16:16- VOICEOVER:- I am completely unknown in Pakistan,
0:16:16 > 0:16:18but suddenly, arriving with a film crew,
0:16:18 > 0:16:20I've become a minor celebrity.
0:16:20 > 0:16:24This is Mr May and this is Khalid here.
0:16:24 > 0:16:26Well, what's...
0:16:28 > 0:16:31- Who's this?- I don't know, I don't know. Just get a picture, it's fine.
0:16:31 > 0:16:33We've got the station manager here.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36HE ADDRESSES MAN IN HIS OWN LANGUAGE
0:16:36 > 0:16:39- Special Ticket Examiner. - Special Ticket Examiner.
0:16:58 > 0:16:59It's the next morning
0:16:59 > 0:17:03and I want to explore a city I've visited only once before.
0:17:03 > 0:17:05Even though it's unfamiliar,
0:17:05 > 0:17:08I keep getting reminders of my home in Burnley.
0:17:11 > 0:17:13Hookahs.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16We used to have one of these in the living room, my dad used to smoke it
0:17:16 > 0:17:19all the time and it stank the living room out, so my mum banned it.
0:17:19 > 0:17:22"Get out! Get out!"
0:17:22 > 0:17:25These ones, yeah, yeah. Oi-oi-oi!
0:17:25 > 0:17:26Oi-oi-oi!
0:17:26 > 0:17:30These hookah pipes were filled with rough tobacco. It looks like rope.
0:17:30 > 0:17:32I can remember the sound as my dad broke it up,
0:17:32 > 0:17:35cracking and twisting it.
0:17:35 > 0:17:37The smell of it reminds me of him,
0:17:37 > 0:17:40though he'd hate it if I started smoking.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45Once the capital of the Mughal Empire,
0:17:45 > 0:17:49it's now the home of the Pakistani literary scene,
0:17:49 > 0:17:53a vibrant film industry and some of the country's top universities.
0:17:58 > 0:18:03Before partition, a third of the residents were Hindu and Sikh.
0:18:03 > 0:18:07Now, this city of seven million is 94% Muslim,
0:18:07 > 0:18:09which tells its own story.
0:18:10 > 0:18:12Partition is the reality of this country.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14It's the way this country was born. It's in these people.
0:18:14 > 0:18:18You can't know Pakistan unless you know partition.
0:18:21 > 0:18:24I'm on my way to meet people who experienced it first-hand,
0:18:24 > 0:18:27husband and wife Mohammad Yousef and Iqbal Bibi,
0:18:27 > 0:18:30whose experiences are typical of many here.
0:18:30 > 0:18:34As Muslims, they had to leave their homes in eastern Punjab.
0:18:34 > 0:18:39Mohammad was already a young man, but Iqbal Bibi was just 13.
0:18:40 > 0:18:43It took them 70 days to walk 100 miles to safety.
0:20:21 > 0:20:25Hearing Iqbal Bibi and Mohammad's story makes me realise
0:20:25 > 0:20:28that my grandparents were spared simply by chance
0:20:28 > 0:20:31because they already lived in what became Pakistani Punjab.
0:20:33 > 0:20:35It's estimated that up to two million Muslims,
0:20:35 > 0:20:37Sikhs and Hindus died
0:20:37 > 0:20:41and over 14 million people were forced to move during partition.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46You should know the history of people
0:20:46 > 0:20:48to understand where they are now.
0:20:48 > 0:20:53Maybe if you don't understand the way Pakistanis and Indians are,
0:20:53 > 0:20:55why they're always angry with each other,
0:20:55 > 0:20:57why they're always arguing with each other,
0:20:57 > 0:21:00just go back a little bit and have a look at partition.
0:21:00 > 0:21:05It's the complete desperation of it, you know?
0:21:15 > 0:21:19I'm 150 miles from Adnan in Lahore, still in Chandigarh,
0:21:19 > 0:21:22the lovely ordered city of the future.
0:21:22 > 0:21:25But the future is now the present,
0:21:25 > 0:21:28and for many, it's not the utopia that was promised.
0:21:30 > 0:21:34I'm meeting Sawan, Punjab's answer to a kind of Banksy.
0:21:34 > 0:21:38For the last ten years, he's been creating political art in the city.
0:21:40 > 0:21:43So, tell me what Sawanism is - #sawanism.
0:21:43 > 0:21:47My name is Sawan and Sawanism is my way of living,
0:21:47 > 0:21:49like Hindus and Buddhism,
0:21:49 > 0:21:52so it's my own personal thing, the way of my life.
0:21:52 > 0:21:55Sawan's work challenges what he sees
0:21:55 > 0:21:58as a worrying rise in Indian nationalism.
0:21:58 > 0:22:02He's a passionate activist calling for social change.
0:22:03 > 0:22:08Wherever there's suppression, there will be art like this.
0:22:08 > 0:22:11Graffiti was normally started,
0:22:11 > 0:22:14done by those people who want to scream out loud.
0:22:14 > 0:22:18- What do Punjabis want to scream out, though?- A lot of things.
0:22:18 > 0:22:20We all are guinea pigs, you know?
0:22:20 > 0:22:23We are trained to behave in a certain way
0:22:23 > 0:22:24and there are some tools
0:22:24 > 0:22:28used by politicians, governments to control us.
0:22:28 > 0:22:31For example, we have created that villain
0:22:31 > 0:22:35which is so-called Pakistan or Islam,
0:22:35 > 0:22:37so we have created the villain
0:22:37 > 0:22:41so that people will believe in governments, in army,
0:22:41 > 0:22:47and we feel we are patriots, we are nationalists and we feel that,
0:22:47 > 0:22:50OK, we are from India or we are from this country, that country,
0:22:50 > 0:22:53but that's been designed
0:22:53 > 0:22:58so that the business of politics and war keep on happening.
0:22:58 > 0:23:00- We are Punjabis. - We are Punjabis, no?
0:23:00 > 0:23:03Feel proud to be Punjabis.
0:23:03 > 0:23:08But that's actually the root cause of war.
0:23:10 > 0:23:12For me, there's something ironic
0:23:12 > 0:23:14that even in a city designed for the future,
0:23:14 > 0:23:16India cannot escape its past.
0:23:17 > 0:23:21- So, are we done?- Yes, we are done.
0:23:21 > 0:23:25So this middle figure represents the politicians
0:23:25 > 0:23:30or the people in power and this poor guy is the common man.
0:23:31 > 0:23:33This is the guy who chooses them
0:23:33 > 0:23:36and this is the guy who is holding the burden of their weight.
0:23:38 > 0:23:42Sawan's highly critical take on India's powerful elite
0:23:42 > 0:23:44challenges the status quo.
0:23:44 > 0:23:47The fact that he can throw down such a provocative gauntlet
0:23:47 > 0:23:51to the powerful, and in such a public way, has to be a good thing.
0:24:05 > 0:24:08If Babita is meeting the Indian Banksy,
0:24:08 > 0:24:12then I'm greeting Pakistan's answer to Bono...
0:24:12 > 0:24:16HE SINGS
0:24:16 > 0:24:19..long-time rebel rock star Salman Ahmad.
0:24:19 > 0:24:24- So, I started off with a band called Vital Signs.- Vital Signs!
0:24:24 > 0:24:25Yeah, yeah, yeah.
0:24:25 > 0:24:28So, we had a hit called Dil Dil Pakistan.
0:24:28 > 0:24:30- Dil Dil Pakistan.- Have you heard it?
0:24:30 > 0:24:31Of course I've heard it.
0:24:31 > 0:24:34I'll tell you right now, every Pakistani in Burnley knew that song.
0:24:34 > 0:24:37# Dil dil Pakistan
0:24:37 > 0:24:39# Jan jan Pakistan... #
0:24:39 > 0:24:41For almost every Pakistani, the song,
0:24:41 > 0:24:43which means "my heart is Pakistan",
0:24:43 > 0:24:46became a sort of alternative national anthem.
0:24:47 > 0:24:50We're surrounded by kids here.
0:24:50 > 0:24:53What's the Pakistan that they've got?
0:24:53 > 0:24:5570% of Pakistan is under the age of 20.
0:24:55 > 0:24:5870% of Pakistan is under the age of 20?
0:24:58 > 0:25:01So more than 100 million people are under the age of 20.
0:25:01 > 0:25:04It's a huge, huge youth pulse,
0:25:04 > 0:25:08a potential which can either go towards creativity and positivity
0:25:08 > 0:25:13or, if it gets frustrated, it can go south, you know?
0:25:13 > 0:25:16But they don't trust the leadership.
0:25:16 > 0:25:18They know the leadership is corrupt to the core.
0:25:20 > 0:25:23In 1996, Salman and his band Junoon
0:25:23 > 0:25:26challenged Pakistan's political corruption head on.
0:25:28 > 0:25:31So, who was the song aimed at?
0:25:31 > 0:25:33At this corrupt status quo
0:25:33 > 0:25:36because the ruling elite has plundered this country
0:25:36 > 0:25:41so it's a huge anthem which is played at political rallies
0:25:41 > 0:25:44and the basic message is the answer to every question is accountability
0:25:44 > 0:25:46and it was banned.
0:25:46 > 0:25:51They banned us indefinitely, but, in 1999, ironically,
0:25:51 > 0:25:53- there was a military coup.- Yes! - THEY LAUGH
0:25:53 > 0:25:56And it turned out that General Musharraf was a huge fan.
0:25:56 > 0:25:59- His kids were huge fans.- Sorted. - "You're not bad!"
0:26:02 > 0:26:06- A dictator freed you.- Yes! - THEY LAUGH
0:26:08 > 0:26:12Musharraf is just one of the 13 leaders in Pakistan
0:26:12 > 0:26:16who have been forced out of office before completing a full term.
0:26:16 > 0:26:20In July 2017, Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif resigned
0:26:20 > 0:26:24over claims of corruption whilst protesting his innocence.
0:26:24 > 0:26:26It was his third resignation.
0:26:31 > 0:26:34It's not just Adnan who has his finger on the musical pulse
0:26:34 > 0:26:36on our parallel journeys along the border.
0:26:36 > 0:26:39PHONE RINGTONE
0:26:39 > 0:26:41Sawan?
0:26:43 > 0:26:45- Hello?- Hello.- How are you doing?
0:26:45 > 0:26:47VOICEOVER: Artist Sawan has invited me
0:26:47 > 0:26:50to experience Chandigarh's nightlife.
0:26:50 > 0:26:52OK, it's a surprise. That sounds interesting.
0:26:52 > 0:26:55And if anyone knows how to party, it's us Punjabis.
0:26:55 > 0:26:57- How you doing?- You are here.
0:26:57 > 0:27:02- You're looking... - Cool!- Very cool! Look at you!
0:27:02 > 0:27:06THEY RAP
0:27:07 > 0:27:11This is hip-hop Indian-style.
0:27:13 > 0:27:15CHEERING
0:27:15 > 0:27:19Ten years ago, Navdeep and Harsimran formed Kru172
0:27:19 > 0:27:23and they've built a solid fanbase throughout India and beyond.
0:27:25 > 0:27:28HE RAPS IN HIS OWN LANGUAGE
0:27:28 > 0:27:31VOICEOVER: Unlike some gangsta rap, Kru172 aren't interested
0:27:31 > 0:27:33in glorifying drugs and violence.
0:27:33 > 0:27:36They think that hip-hop can offer young people
0:27:36 > 0:27:38a different, more positive message.
0:27:46 > 0:27:48Yes! Yes, yes, that was wicked!
0:27:48 > 0:27:50- Thank you so much.- I love that!
0:27:50 > 0:27:53VOICEOVER: The anti-drug message isn't just a gimmick.
0:27:53 > 0:27:55It's a message they live their life by
0:27:55 > 0:27:58and encourage their fans to do the same.
0:27:59 > 0:28:03So, like, we are the only two guys in the whole family tree
0:28:03 > 0:28:06- that are, like, clean. - Totally clean.- You don't drink?
0:28:06 > 0:28:08- No drinking, no smoking. - No other drugs.
0:28:08 > 0:28:13So, we wanted to tell everybody that you can still be super-cool
0:28:13 > 0:28:15when you're clean.
0:28:18 > 0:28:21The boys have got a really strong message that they're trying
0:28:21 > 0:28:23to get across through their music, through hip-hop,
0:28:23 > 0:28:26which has always been associated with drugs and alcohol
0:28:26 > 0:28:28and getting high.
0:28:28 > 0:28:31They're trying to say that you don't have to do that here in Punjab,
0:28:31 > 0:28:34particularly for young Punjabis,
0:28:34 > 0:28:37and nobody in there at the gig was drinking
0:28:37 > 0:28:39and we all had a wicked night.
0:28:41 > 0:28:44I want you all to make some noise...
0:28:44 > 0:28:46CHEERING
0:28:52 > 0:28:55I was aware there was a drug problem here,
0:28:55 > 0:28:57but I didn't know how widespread the issue was.
0:28:57 > 0:29:00A lot of heroin from Afghanistan makes its way
0:29:00 > 0:29:04through the porous border in Pakistan and then into Punjab.
0:29:04 > 0:29:07The state has an estimated four million addicts.
0:29:09 > 0:29:13And what I want to work out is why so many people in Punjab take drugs
0:29:13 > 0:29:17and what it is that is being done to tackle the problem.
0:29:17 > 0:29:20I've been told, to my surprise,
0:29:20 > 0:29:23that the fastest growing group of addicts are women.
0:29:23 > 0:29:27Dr Bhatia opened this wing at the clinic in 2016.
0:29:27 > 0:29:30- Nice to meet you, Dr Bhatia. - Hello, Babita.
0:29:30 > 0:29:33- Thank you so much for having me here.- Let me see.
0:29:33 > 0:29:35It's an incredible building.
0:29:35 > 0:29:37This was created about eight, ten years back
0:29:37 > 0:29:41and now it's the only female rehab centre.
0:29:41 > 0:29:43And is this a fairly new thing?
0:29:43 > 0:29:48There is the latest thing that what men can do, women can do.
0:29:48 > 0:29:50The working women who are earning
0:29:50 > 0:29:52and the girlfriends who are trying to be showing
0:29:52 > 0:29:55that they are independent has brought up about
0:29:55 > 0:29:58a new revolution of people who are into drugs
0:29:58 > 0:30:00and most of them are women
0:30:00 > 0:30:03and they are trying to show that they are modern.
0:30:03 > 0:30:06If you can drink, I can drink with you.
0:30:06 > 0:30:09If you can take heroin, I can also take heroin.
0:30:09 > 0:30:11Trying to show that you have an identity.
0:30:11 > 0:30:13Come with me.
0:30:13 > 0:30:16VOICEOVER: There's little help available for people struggling
0:30:16 > 0:30:19with addiction, but, for a small number,
0:30:19 > 0:30:21this clinic can offer hope.
0:30:22 > 0:30:23How old are you?
0:30:23 > 0:30:27- I'm 21.- What were you addicted to?
0:30:27 > 0:30:32I was addicted to weed, hash and brown sugar and heroin.
0:30:32 > 0:30:34And how often were you taking the heroin?
0:30:34 > 0:30:38Sometimes, it was 10-12 lines per day.
0:30:38 > 0:30:42I was so much addicted to drugs on that time
0:30:42 > 0:30:43that I left going to the college, also.
0:30:50 > 0:30:53They were really shocked that I was into drugs.
0:30:53 > 0:30:56It is a big problem in Punjab right now.
0:30:56 > 0:31:00- So, it is not difficult to get heroin?- Not at all.
0:31:00 > 0:31:02By staying here, I got so much positivity.
0:31:02 > 0:31:04It's all about life lessons,
0:31:04 > 0:31:07that how we should manage our life without drugs.
0:31:07 > 0:31:10This help is only available privately
0:31:10 > 0:31:14and it's said that the stigma of having a female relative
0:31:14 > 0:31:16with a drug addiction means that families often refuse
0:31:16 > 0:31:19to get the women the help that they need.
0:31:20 > 0:31:24There's a woman over there, she's probably about my mum's age,
0:31:24 > 0:31:26and she's just been admitted.
0:31:26 > 0:31:29It's her first day here and she's with her family at the moment,
0:31:29 > 0:31:32but she's here because she's addicted to prescription drugs.
0:31:34 > 0:31:37And not that you can ever tell what an addict looks like,
0:31:37 > 0:31:41but this is a traditional Punjabi woman wearing a suit
0:31:41 > 0:31:44and she's got a serious problem.
0:31:44 > 0:31:47That's not the India I was expecting to see.
0:31:47 > 0:31:51It's not the Punjab that I thought I would discover.
0:32:00 > 0:32:04Pakistan shares many of India's problems,
0:32:04 > 0:32:07but whilst India has the seventh largest economy in the world,
0:32:07 > 0:32:10Pakistan ranks only 39th.
0:32:10 > 0:32:13With almost 60% of the population illiterate
0:32:13 > 0:32:16and 40% living below the poverty line,
0:32:16 > 0:32:20it's hard to know how the situation can get better any time soon,
0:32:20 > 0:32:22but I'm going to meet some people
0:32:22 > 0:32:24who might be able to make a difference.
0:32:25 > 0:32:29An industrialist and his wife have invited me
0:32:29 > 0:32:32to an exclusive party at their luxury home
0:32:32 > 0:32:35to meet some of the financial movers and shakers of Lahore.
0:32:35 > 0:32:38Sorry, what do you do?
0:32:38 > 0:32:43Well, we run the largest transport network in Pakistan,
0:32:43 > 0:32:45passenger and cargo.
0:32:45 > 0:32:47I run, like, multiple offices.
0:32:47 > 0:32:51I have offices in LA, China, Bangkok, Australia, the UK.
0:32:53 > 0:32:57For the past 20 years, Pakistan has suffered from an increasing number
0:32:57 > 0:33:01of people going to work abroad, now an estimated six million.
0:33:01 > 0:33:04If things are going to improve here,
0:33:04 > 0:33:06there has to be a reason for people to stay.
0:33:06 > 0:33:10Pakistan's got a bad, bad press in Britain, definitely,
0:33:10 > 0:33:12and it's got a fairly bad press around the world.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15How do you feel about Pakistan? Are you optimistic about Pakistan?
0:33:15 > 0:33:18- Of course.- Yeah, I'm optimistic.
0:33:18 > 0:33:21If somebody who visited Pakistan ten years ago
0:33:21 > 0:33:24and somebody who has visited Pakistan now, like you,
0:33:24 > 0:33:29and you see all around you, you will not recognise anything.
0:33:29 > 0:33:31I mean, our infrastructure is better,
0:33:31 > 0:33:36our electricity situation is better, our public transport is better.
0:33:36 > 0:33:39We have metro trains, we have public transportation systems.
0:33:39 > 0:33:44Our telecommunication is better. The schooling system is better.
0:33:44 > 0:33:46Our security systems are better.
0:33:46 > 0:33:49So, I mean, we are moving in the right direction.
0:33:49 > 0:33:52The change I've seen, it's phenomenal. It's just unbelievable.
0:33:52 > 0:33:56- Like what?- In, like, lifestyle. The people, they're so much fashionable.
0:33:56 > 0:33:59They're exposed to so many different things in life
0:33:59 > 0:34:00and it's getting better.
0:34:00 > 0:34:03As an entrepreneur, I think it's a gold mine.
0:34:03 > 0:34:06I think, if anyone missed out on India,
0:34:06 > 0:34:08then they need to invest in Pakistan today.
0:34:08 > 0:34:12We're ten years behind, but we're going to be big.
0:34:14 > 0:34:18The young entrepreneurs I've met tonight have got the vision
0:34:18 > 0:34:21and belief to drive the economy forward.
0:34:21 > 0:34:24They make no apology about being here to make big money.
0:34:24 > 0:34:27They could be working anywhere in the world making a fortune,
0:34:27 > 0:34:32but they choose to remain in Pakistan and that's got to be good.
0:34:40 > 0:34:42It's time to leave Chandigarh behind
0:34:42 > 0:34:47and head off in search of my family and the house my mum grew up in.
0:34:50 > 0:34:53We're going to go and visit the family home,
0:34:53 > 0:34:57which is still within the family so we'll get to see, I'm hoping,
0:34:57 > 0:34:58the room that she was born in.
0:34:58 > 0:35:02My mum hasn't been back there for over 20-odd years.
0:35:02 > 0:35:05I've never been there, my sisters have never been there,
0:35:05 > 0:35:07but we've always heard about this place.
0:35:09 > 0:35:12My uncle has told me to head to the small village called Banga.
0:35:13 > 0:35:16- Banga?- Banga, Banga.- Banga?
0:35:16 > 0:35:18HE SPEAKS IN HIS OWN LANGUAGE
0:35:18 > 0:35:21MAN SPEAKS IN HIS OWN LANGUAGE
0:35:23 > 0:35:26That's hilarious because he just said, "It's straight ahead,"
0:35:26 > 0:35:28and that's exactly what my uncle said to me in England
0:35:28 > 0:35:32when I asked him, "When I get to Banga, Mum's village,
0:35:32 > 0:35:35"how am I going to find out where the family home is?"
0:35:35 > 0:35:41And he said, "You just go there and then you kind of find it."
0:35:49 > 0:35:52Nice to see a corner shop cos we, Mum and Dad,
0:35:52 > 0:35:56our family have corner shops, so that's quite reassuring.
0:35:56 > 0:35:58I feel a little bit at home seeing that.
0:36:00 > 0:36:03A few streets away, we finally find Mum's old house,
0:36:03 > 0:36:06where some of my family still live.
0:36:08 > 0:36:10I'm going to cry! Sorry!
0:36:16 > 0:36:18Oh, they're doing a ceremony.
0:36:18 > 0:36:19This is for blessing cos it's the first time
0:36:19 > 0:36:21I'm coming to cross the threshold.
0:36:21 > 0:36:23You look so different!
0:36:24 > 0:36:26These are my cousins and the last time I saw them
0:36:26 > 0:36:28was about 20 years ago.
0:36:29 > 0:36:31I didn't even recognise you.
0:36:36 > 0:36:38This is my mum's sister.
0:36:43 > 0:36:47Dr Sadhu Ram Parasher, that's my mum's father there.
0:36:47 > 0:36:51And I did meet him last time I was in India 20-odd years ago.
0:36:53 > 0:36:55This is the room my mum was born in.
0:36:56 > 0:37:01- The interior was the same, yes. - Same?- No changes are there.
0:37:01 > 0:37:03SHE ADDRESSES WOMAN IN HER OWN LANGUAGE
0:37:03 > 0:37:06I'm like, "Why have you not decorated for 70 years?"
0:37:08 > 0:37:11My family say the house is still the way it was when Mum was here.
0:37:12 > 0:37:15Walking into the house and seeing everyone,
0:37:15 > 0:37:21their faces and the love and the big hugs was just a priceless moment.
0:37:21 > 0:37:27It feels so strange, but it also feels quite comforting.
0:37:27 > 0:37:31It actually feels quite... It just feels right to be here.
0:37:37 > 0:37:38This is my favourite dish.
0:37:38 > 0:37:41This is one that I grew up on that Mum always used to make for us
0:37:41 > 0:37:45on a Sunday for the family lunch and it's traditional Punjabi cuisine.
0:37:45 > 0:37:48Karhi, not curry that we know.
0:37:48 > 0:37:51It's basically gram flour mixed in with yoghurt
0:37:51 > 0:37:54and coriander seeds and onions, turmeric,
0:37:54 > 0:37:59cumin seeds stirred very carefully for hours and hours and hours.
0:37:59 > 0:38:01Add a pinch of love to it
0:38:01 > 0:38:03and you get the most incredible Indian food.
0:38:05 > 0:38:08I could just keep eating it, the whole bowl.
0:38:14 > 0:38:18I'm spending another night in Punjab's capital.
0:38:18 > 0:38:21I want to find out more about a branch of Islam
0:38:21 > 0:38:23that has its enemies here.
0:38:23 > 0:38:25I'm particularly interested
0:38:25 > 0:38:28because it's a form of religion that my eldest brother follows.
0:38:28 > 0:38:30I'm in Lahore, it's Thursday night
0:38:30 > 0:38:33and I've heard about these Sufi gatherings that happen.
0:38:33 > 0:38:35Usually, they are massive, massive events,
0:38:35 > 0:38:37but there's been some attacks on them
0:38:37 > 0:38:39so they've got some private events.
0:38:39 > 0:38:42We've been invited to one tonight and I can just hear it over there.
0:38:42 > 0:38:45We need to get in there and see what it's about. Let's go and join them.
0:38:45 > 0:38:48SINGING AND RHYTHMIC DRUMMING
0:38:54 > 0:38:56Sufism is rejected by conservative Muslims,
0:38:56 > 0:39:00but it's existed alongside Islam for over 1,000 years
0:39:00 > 0:39:02and it's steeped in the soul of Pakistani culture.
0:39:04 > 0:39:09Thursday is the start of the weekend and the place to be at is a dhamaal,
0:39:09 > 0:39:13a Sufi kind of rave, but here, they sing praise to Allah.
0:39:41 > 0:39:43By entering a trance-like state,
0:39:43 > 0:39:47Sufis believe that it's possible to get closer to God.
0:39:49 > 0:39:52Ultra-conservative Muslims, like the Taliban
0:39:52 > 0:39:56and so-called Islamic State, have labelled them as heretics.
0:39:56 > 0:39:59They've carried out a number of attacks on Sufi shrines,
0:39:59 > 0:40:02most recently murdering 88 worshippers
0:40:02 > 0:40:05and injuring hundreds in February 2017.
0:40:20 > 0:40:24Pappu Sain is the internationally known star of the show.
0:40:24 > 0:40:27He's a drummer and a Sufi mystic.
0:40:27 > 0:40:30He's a sort of Ringo Starr crossed with a maharishi.
0:41:38 > 0:41:41He's an odd one, isn't he? He is an odd one.
0:41:47 > 0:41:52Pappu Sain looks intimidating, but his message was about peace
0:41:52 > 0:41:55and acceptance and spreading that.
0:41:56 > 0:41:59Sufis have been attacked, but they're carrying on
0:41:59 > 0:42:01and there was a crowd out there
0:42:01 > 0:42:03who, even though they've been attacked,
0:42:03 > 0:42:05that community has been attacked,
0:42:05 > 0:42:06they still turn out on Thursday night.
0:42:06 > 0:42:08HE EXCLAIMS IN HIS OWN LANGUAGE
0:42:10 > 0:42:13Pakistan was created to protect a religious minority
0:42:13 > 0:42:16so it's sad now that the Sufis are facing discrimination.
0:42:20 > 0:42:23Even the violence isn't going to tell them to go away.
0:42:23 > 0:42:25The violence isn't going to stop them, they're going to carry on.
0:42:25 > 0:42:28I really like that about them, really like that about them,
0:42:28 > 0:42:30and they just, um...
0:42:30 > 0:42:35They're brave. They're living bravely in, er...
0:42:35 > 0:42:37in dangerous times.
0:42:37 > 0:42:38DRUMBEAT
0:42:45 > 0:42:48CHEERING
0:42:54 > 0:42:5830 miles from Adnan, I'm following the border north to Amritsar,
0:42:58 > 0:43:01the heart of Punjab's Sikh community.
0:43:01 > 0:43:05Nationally, they are the minority, like the Sufis of Pakistan,
0:43:05 > 0:43:09but in India-Punjab, they are the largest religious group.
0:43:11 > 0:43:13I want to find out more about Sikhism -
0:43:13 > 0:43:16and where better to start than their most spiritual site,
0:43:16 > 0:43:18the Golden Temple?
0:43:19 > 0:43:21I feel like I dressed appropriately.
0:43:21 > 0:43:23Everyone's wearing orange!
0:43:23 > 0:43:25LAUGHTER
0:43:25 > 0:43:29The temple complex has over five million visitors every year.
0:43:31 > 0:43:33I think we're going to go in. INDISTINCT SPEECH
0:43:33 > 0:43:35It's so beautiful.
0:43:35 > 0:43:36It's so calm.
0:43:39 > 0:43:42Work on the complex began at the end of the 16th century,
0:43:42 > 0:43:47with this pool, Amrit Sarovar, which gave the city its name.
0:43:47 > 0:43:49It translates rather beautifully
0:43:49 > 0:43:51as the pool of the nectar of immortality.
0:43:54 > 0:43:56The temple was deliberately built
0:43:56 > 0:43:58at a lower level than the surrounding land
0:43:58 > 0:44:00to show equality and humility,
0:44:00 > 0:44:03while the doors on all four sides
0:44:03 > 0:44:07are a sign that everyone is welcome, whatever their social class.
0:44:10 > 0:44:13Everywhere you go round the Golden Temple, you see this,
0:44:13 > 0:44:17which are plaques commemorating the people that...
0:44:17 > 0:44:18have served their country.
0:44:18 > 0:44:21Surjit Singh, Jodh Singh, Darshan Singh,
0:44:21 > 0:44:27Sampuran Singh, Chanan Singh, Ajit Singh, Hari Singh.
0:44:27 > 0:44:30At partition, Sikhs were a minority in Punjab.
0:44:30 > 0:44:34When the state was divided, some wanted their own homeland,
0:44:34 > 0:44:37called Khalistan, but that was ignored.
0:44:38 > 0:44:40A separatist movement emerged,
0:44:40 > 0:44:43which the government tried to repress.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46A violent siege at this temple in 1984
0:44:46 > 0:44:50ultimately led to Prime Minister Indira Gandhi's assassination
0:44:50 > 0:44:52by her Sikh bodyguards.
0:44:52 > 0:44:563,000 Sikhs were killed in the terrible reprisals
0:44:56 > 0:44:58that swiftly followed.
0:44:59 > 0:45:03Today, I've got the rare chance to meet a Sikh separatist leader,
0:45:03 > 0:45:05branded a terrorist by the authorities.
0:45:07 > 0:45:10Wassan Singh Zaffarwal still believes in the original dream
0:45:10 > 0:45:13of an independent Punjab called Khalistan.
0:45:14 > 0:45:17There's already been a border created that caused
0:45:17 > 0:45:21so much heartache and problems - the India-Pakistan border.
0:45:21 > 0:45:25If Khalistan became a reality, there would be another border.
0:45:25 > 0:45:28Haven't Punjabis seen enough...
0:45:28 > 0:45:32of this, borders and separation and fighting?
0:45:32 > 0:45:34HE CLEARS HIS THROAT
0:46:09 > 0:46:11The Sikh community are not alone in believing
0:46:11 > 0:46:14that they were treated unfairly by partition.
0:46:14 > 0:46:18But the separatists' dream of an independent Sikh Punjab
0:46:18 > 0:46:21seems a very long way from becoming a reality.
0:46:24 > 0:46:25CAR HORN
0:46:27 > 0:46:30The map's getting wrecked. Yeah, it's getting wrecked.
0:46:34 > 0:46:37Today, it's time for me to leave the city.
0:46:38 > 0:46:42I'm heading closer towards the Indian border, to Jassar,
0:46:42 > 0:46:43where Babita's father was born.
0:46:45 > 0:46:46And I've got a promise to keep.
0:46:48 > 0:46:51She can't get across the border, but we're this side of the border,
0:46:51 > 0:46:54so we're going to go there and just try and find out
0:46:54 > 0:46:56if people remember her family, take some pictures,
0:46:56 > 0:46:58get some memories for her while we're here.
0:47:00 > 0:47:01And...
0:47:01 > 0:47:03that's my family home. Kharian.
0:47:03 > 0:47:05We're not far from each other, are we?
0:47:05 > 0:47:07It's crazy, isn't it?
0:47:17 > 0:47:19Babita's dad was only five
0:47:19 > 0:47:22when he and his family decided to leave Jassar.
0:47:22 > 0:47:26It was a year before partition, but the writing was on the wall.
0:47:26 > 0:47:28They foresaw the violence and the bloodshed,
0:47:28 > 0:47:31so they left and moved east to Delhi.
0:47:32 > 0:47:34His childhood memories are very sketchy,
0:47:34 > 0:47:37so finding the family house is going to be tricky.
0:47:38 > 0:47:42This is a Hindu temple, you know, this is definitely not a mosque.
0:47:52 > 0:47:54Oh, here we go.
0:47:58 > 0:48:01As part of the minority community of Hindus in Jassar,
0:48:01 > 0:48:04it's likely that Babita's family lived in this area.
0:48:04 > 0:48:07They would've lived alongside their Muslim neighbours.
0:48:13 > 0:48:15- This is the right street? - This is the right street.
0:48:15 > 0:48:17Look at this house.
0:48:19 > 0:48:21- Oh, wow.- That's a small wraith.
0:48:21 > 0:48:23HE MUMBLES
0:48:25 > 0:48:27- That's a Hindu architecture.- Yeah.
0:48:28 > 0:48:31We can't be sure that this was Babita's house,
0:48:31 > 0:48:33but we can't be sure that it wasn't Babita's house.
0:48:33 > 0:48:35- But it was Babita's neighbourhood. - Yeah, definitely.
0:48:35 > 0:48:37- With all those Hindu houses.- Yeah.
0:48:40 > 0:48:41Let me get this.
0:48:41 > 0:48:42BELL RINGS IN BACKGROUND
0:48:45 > 0:48:47Babita... She wanted something from the house.
0:48:47 > 0:48:50She said, "Can you get me some sand from around the house?"
0:48:50 > 0:48:51And her dad wanted some, as well.
0:48:51 > 0:48:53I mean, this is where her family's from
0:48:53 > 0:48:56and this is the dirt and the dust of history.
0:48:58 > 0:48:59PHONE RINGS
0:49:05 > 0:49:07'Adnan.'
0:49:07 > 0:49:09- Babita...- 'Hello?'- Babita, hello.
0:49:10 > 0:49:13- 'Hey, how are you?'- I'm all right. Can you hear me?
0:49:13 > 0:49:15'I can hear you.'
0:49:15 > 0:49:17- I'm...I'm on the street in... - INDISTINCT SPEECH
0:49:17 > 0:49:19I'm on the street in Jassar,
0:49:19 > 0:49:23where your family, er, where your family lived.
0:49:23 > 0:49:26- 'Are you on the street now?' - I'm in one of the houses.
0:49:26 > 0:49:29- 'Whose house?'- I don't know, it might be your house.
0:49:29 > 0:49:31GASPS
0:49:32 > 0:49:35'And also, the guy here reached past the new bricks
0:49:35 > 0:49:37'and reached inside the old bricks'
0:49:37 > 0:49:40and pulled out some of the dirt and some of the sand,
0:49:40 > 0:49:42so we've got you some of that.
0:49:42 > 0:49:44'Thank you so much.'
0:49:44 > 0:49:47You don't know how happy that's made me.
0:49:47 > 0:49:50INDISTINCT SPEECH Bye.
0:49:56 > 0:49:58It's, um...
0:49:58 > 0:50:00Oh, I wish I was there!
0:50:00 > 0:50:03I wish I could just cross the border and go over there.
0:50:05 > 0:50:09It feels very special and I know it's going to mean
0:50:09 > 0:50:12so much to my dad that he's been able to do that.
0:50:16 > 0:50:18Mission accomplished for Babita.
0:50:18 > 0:50:21I'm now going to head 100 miles north to Kharian,
0:50:21 > 0:50:23where my own mum's waiting for me.
0:50:25 > 0:50:28We're on the road to Kharian now,
0:50:28 > 0:50:31which is my home village, this is where I'm from,
0:50:31 > 0:50:33and my mum's in town, which is great,
0:50:33 > 0:50:35so I'm going to go and see her.
0:50:35 > 0:50:39My mum comes quite regularly and I think this is going to be...
0:50:39 > 0:50:43This is going to be great, just to see my mum in Pakistan,
0:50:43 > 0:50:46in her home village and me coming back to Pakistan,
0:50:46 > 0:50:49having understood it a lot more than I did previously.
0:50:55 > 0:50:59This garrison town with a population of 80,000
0:50:59 > 0:51:01is less than 40 miles from the Indian border.
0:51:03 > 0:51:05I was last here over ten years ago
0:51:05 > 0:51:07and I'm not so sure that I can find our house.
0:51:10 > 0:51:13- That's not it. That's not it. - Right...- That's not it.
0:51:13 > 0:51:16I'm not being helped by the fact that there's just been a power cut.
0:51:16 > 0:51:18Is this the street to my house?
0:51:18 > 0:51:20- VOICEOVER:- Those Chinese solar panels
0:51:20 > 0:51:23have clearly not reached my mum's hometown.
0:51:23 > 0:51:24Is this it?
0:51:26 > 0:51:30Yeah, this is it, this is it, this is it, this is it. This is it. So...
0:51:30 > 0:51:33This used to be where my grandma lived.
0:51:35 > 0:51:37So, my grandma used to live in here and I used to...
0:51:37 > 0:51:41Look, the stairs there, I used to go to the top, because it was cooler
0:51:41 > 0:51:43and I used to go right to the top, on the roof,
0:51:43 > 0:51:47and she used to lay on the manji and I used to just like massage her.
0:51:47 > 0:51:49Right at the top, there.
0:51:49 > 0:51:50And then...
0:51:50 > 0:51:53HE GREETS SOMEONE IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
0:51:53 > 0:51:55- VOICEOVER:- The first person I meet
0:51:55 > 0:51:57is my uncle, who's home from Germany.
0:52:03 > 0:52:04There's a picture...
0:52:04 > 0:52:07There's a picture of me when I was a little boy and I'm, like...
0:52:07 > 0:52:09I'll do the picture right now, I'm like...
0:52:09 > 0:52:11I'm like this.
0:52:15 > 0:52:16Mummy!
0:52:16 > 0:52:19My mum has flown in from Burnley specially to welcome me home.
0:52:19 > 0:52:23She's a typical Asian mum - she has to be there for her son.
0:52:23 > 0:52:24I know she loves me.
0:52:39 > 0:52:42I've got to own up - I've avoided coming here in the past,
0:52:42 > 0:52:44thinking that this country isn't a part of who I am.
0:53:51 > 0:53:53Two-thirds of the way through my trip,
0:53:53 > 0:53:56despite the familiar problems of religious intolerance
0:53:56 > 0:53:59and political corruption that I've found,
0:53:59 > 0:54:00I'm feeling pretty optimistic.
0:54:03 > 0:54:06This is a Pakistan that doesn't match the perception
0:54:06 > 0:54:08the West has of the country.
0:54:08 > 0:54:11And I've been as guilty of believing the image that is portrayed.
0:54:14 > 0:54:17I'm beginning to enjoy letting the Pakistani in me take over.
0:54:20 > 0:54:23It's a dilemma many British Pakistanis will be familiar with,
0:54:23 > 0:54:27as we wrestle with who we are and where we belong.
0:54:41 > 0:54:44I'm on the final leg of my journey through Punjab,
0:54:44 > 0:54:48and for the first time, I'm going to be able to stand
0:54:48 > 0:54:51at the Indian border and at least look into Pakistan,
0:54:51 > 0:54:53even if I can't cross over.
0:54:53 > 0:54:57It's the closest I'll get to my dad's homeland.
0:54:58 > 0:54:59This is Dera Baba Nanak,
0:54:59 > 0:55:03which is one of the most holiest sites for the Sikh community,
0:55:03 > 0:55:08because it's where the first guru, Guru Nanak Dev Ji,
0:55:08 > 0:55:09spent a lot of his time.
0:55:09 > 0:55:12But across the border that we're about to see,
0:55:12 > 0:55:15is where he spent his last days, in Kartapur Sahib,
0:55:15 > 0:55:18and actually, there's a board here that says that.
0:55:18 > 0:55:21"Which at a distance of 4.5km in Pakistan,
0:55:21 > 0:55:25"has an historic and remarkable religious importance."
0:55:26 > 0:55:30There's a lot of border security forces here.
0:55:30 > 0:55:33But I think if we can get to that viewing point,
0:55:33 > 0:55:36we're going to be able to see Pakistan.
0:55:36 > 0:55:39And this remains a dangerous border.
0:55:39 > 0:55:43Only last year, after a series of cross-border clashes in Kashmir,
0:55:43 > 0:55:4750 miles north, 27 people died.
0:55:47 > 0:55:50All villages within 10 kilometres of the border
0:55:50 > 0:55:55were temporarily evacuated, including Dera Baba Nanak.
0:55:56 > 0:55:59So, it says that photography is prohibited in this area,
0:55:59 > 0:56:01but loads of people have got their iPhones out, so...
0:56:05 > 0:56:08He said we can't go up there and take pictures.
0:56:08 > 0:56:13He said that we can shoot this way, but we can't show the Pakistan side.
0:56:15 > 0:56:18My first glimpse of Pakistan,
0:56:18 > 0:56:21from the India border.
0:56:21 > 0:56:24But I think this is a place that neither of us have been.
0:56:27 > 0:56:30We're about half a mile away from Pakistan.
0:56:30 > 0:56:32So, if we could walk it from here,
0:56:32 > 0:56:34we'd probably get there within 15, 20 minutes.
0:56:36 > 0:56:39I'm in touching distance of where my dad was born,
0:56:39 > 0:56:42which is now in Pakistan.
0:56:42 > 0:56:45It's incredibly frustrating not to be able to just step across,
0:56:45 > 0:56:49but that's the reality of 21st-century India and Pakistan -
0:56:49 > 0:56:51people who share the same culture,
0:56:51 > 0:56:55the same history, speak the same language, are still divided.
0:56:55 > 0:56:58And it feels to me that it's governments
0:56:58 > 0:57:01and not really the people who want to keep it that way.
0:57:05 > 0:57:06Next time...
0:57:08 > 0:57:12Heading north, we are on the final leg of our journeys.
0:57:12 > 0:57:15You could well lose your life on this pass.
0:57:15 > 0:57:19Gaining rare access to the Pakistani Air Force.
0:57:19 > 0:57:22We are going to fight them back with all the life we have.
0:57:22 > 0:57:27And experiencing life on one of the world's most dangerous borders.
0:57:30 > 0:57:33As one nation forges new friendships...
0:57:33 > 0:57:36This relationship that the Chinese have got with the Pakistanis,
0:57:36 > 0:57:38it feels like something's happening.
0:57:38 > 0:57:41The other is locked in a bitter internal conflict.
0:57:44 > 0:57:46They're just saying, "We just want to be free."
0:57:50 > 0:57:53The future is unpredictable for both these countries.
0:57:55 > 0:57:57Would you like to find out more
0:57:57 > 0:58:00about why India was partitioned into two states?
0:58:00 > 0:58:02Delve deeper into the history
0:58:02 > 0:58:06and the psychology with our academic experts at...
0:58:09 > 0:58:13..and follow the links to the Open University.