Episode 1

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0:00:02 > 0:00:03It's great to be back with Santer,

0:00:03 > 0:00:06where you'll get all the very, best in Ulster-Scots music,

0:00:06 > 0:00:09storytelling, history, lifestyle, and, of course, good craic.

0:00:15 > 0:00:17In this week's programme,

0:00:17 > 0:00:21Paula will be making a feast at the Cairncastle Music Festival.

0:00:21 > 0:00:24- Your "fine" is my "rough"! - Or maybe your "fine" is my "rough"!

0:00:24 > 0:00:27Andy Mattison finds out all about a Greek chieftain

0:00:27 > 0:00:31that worked as a minister at Kilwarlin Moravian Church.

0:00:31 > 0:00:35The legend is that he didn't die in Dublin, that he faked his own death?

0:00:35 > 0:00:37Well, it could have happened that way.

0:00:37 > 0:00:40Mark Wilson, who'll be taking off on his musical journey in Scotland,

0:00:40 > 0:00:43starts that journey in England.

0:00:43 > 0:00:44You might be wondering

0:00:44 > 0:00:47why I'm starting a journey about Ulster-Scots music,

0:00:47 > 0:00:51south of the border, here at Carlisle Castle.

0:00:51 > 0:00:54And, young Luke Drysdale takes us round a queer selection of cars

0:00:54 > 0:00:57at the Yesteryear Exhibition at Mount Stewart.

0:00:57 > 0:01:00Whoever owns this isn't afraid to get a bit of mud on it.

0:01:00 > 0:01:02That's what motoring's about.

0:01:07 > 0:01:09But before all that,

0:01:09 > 0:01:13why don't you enjoy some really good Lowland Piping from Fred Morrison?

0:04:31 > 0:04:35CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:04:35 > 0:04:39This is a great place you've brought me to for your cooking tonight.

0:04:39 > 0:04:40It's beautiful, isn't it?

0:04:40 > 0:04:43- You can see Scotland behind me. - Look at the Ailsa Craig.

0:04:43 > 0:04:45We're not on our own here tonight.

0:04:45 > 0:04:49There are folk coming in the gate there for Cairncastle Festival.

0:04:49 > 0:04:51FIDDLE MUSIC

0:04:54 > 0:04:55What are you making?

0:04:55 > 0:04:58I'm making a brine beef, but I'm going to spice it,

0:04:58 > 0:05:01and then we'll do a turnip hash.

0:05:01 > 0:05:05So we're sort of going for a Cajuny Ulster-Scots theme.

0:05:05 > 0:05:07I've taken the beef out of the brine.

0:05:07 > 0:05:13There's juniper berries, there's coriander. Coriander...

0:05:13 > 0:05:16And then I've got a wee bit of peppercorn - pink peppercorn here.

0:05:16 > 0:05:18Cumin and coriander here.

0:05:18 > 0:05:21And then you've got your turmeric.

0:05:21 > 0:05:24All these were used traditionally, as you know, in Ulster-Scots.

0:05:24 > 0:05:27No salt - it's been in brine so you don't need that.

0:05:27 > 0:05:30Aye. Are those scallions fine enough for you now?

0:05:30 > 0:05:31Yes, they're fine.

0:05:31 > 0:05:33Your "fine" is my "rough", would that be right?

0:05:33 > 0:05:35Or maybe your "fine" is my rough!

0:05:35 > 0:05:39So, I've got some nice crispy, streaky bacon in there.

0:05:39 > 0:05:41You've got a wee bit of oil come out, so that's good.

0:05:41 > 0:05:46And then I put in some turnip that I've cooked beforehand.

0:05:46 > 0:05:51OK, so that just goes in there, that'll be great there.

0:05:51 > 0:05:54Do you want to throw your scallions in there?

0:05:54 > 0:05:56- Aye. A few in here?- Uh-huh.

0:05:56 > 0:05:58Last year I grew my own scallions.

0:05:58 > 0:06:00- Did you?- And chopped them myself.

0:06:00 > 0:06:02That's ready now in my book.

0:06:02 > 0:06:04The hash is coming on lovely - look at that.

0:06:04 > 0:06:06Gorgeous, can't wait for a spoonful of that.

0:06:15 > 0:06:17It does smell gorgeous.

0:06:17 > 0:06:20I cannae describe the smell of the spices. Beautiful.

0:06:20 > 0:06:24Take a wee bit of the hash - just put it down the middle.

0:06:24 > 0:06:26The turnip and bacon are lovely together.

0:06:26 > 0:06:28- Aye, gorgeous. - It's just lovely.

0:06:28 > 0:06:31Do you think anybody will like theirs well done?

0:06:31 > 0:06:33A bit of music, a wee bit of good Ulster-Scots meat,

0:06:33 > 0:06:35it couldn't get better!

0:06:35 > 0:06:38Here's one of the festival organisers. Do you want to try a this?

0:06:38 > 0:06:40It smells brilliant.

0:06:40 > 0:06:43- Turnip, bacon and scallions. - You can't beat turnip.

0:06:43 > 0:06:45Get a spoonful of that in you. What do you think of that?

0:06:45 > 0:06:48A bit of good Ulster-Scots cooking, Anne.

0:06:48 > 0:06:50We slaved hard over a hot stove.

0:06:50 > 0:06:52I saw that, yes. You've done well.

0:06:52 > 0:06:56Geordie, come here and taste this good Ulster-Scots meat

0:06:56 > 0:06:58and let me know what you think. Nice, spicy steak.

0:06:58 > 0:07:00Not too much, just a wee tiny bit.

0:07:00 > 0:07:02Don't you be eating it all now!

0:07:02 > 0:07:03What do you think of that?

0:07:03 > 0:07:04It's lovely!

0:07:04 > 0:07:07Isn't it gorgeous? Take a wee bit of the steak.

0:07:07 > 0:07:12- We'll just take the plate now, will we?- Do you want the whole thing?!

0:07:19 > 0:07:23We'll be back with Paula later on in the show for pudding.

0:07:25 > 0:07:26Tha Proota Getherin.

0:07:26 > 0:07:29Dae ye mind the times in harvest climes

0:07:29 > 0:07:32When we went gatherin prootas

0:07:32 > 0:07:34Me, my ma, and once my da

0:07:34 > 0:07:37An the neighbours roon aboot us

0:07:37 > 0:07:39Bend yer back and dinnae slack

0:07:39 > 0:07:41Heid doon and dinnae stop

0:07:41 > 0:07:43The winter's not so far away

0:07:43 > 0:07:45And we cannae lose the crop

0:07:45 > 0:07:48Then pour tea away to the back of the hedge

0:07:48 > 0:07:49Which you take from a gallon can

0:07:49 > 0:07:52A loaf of bread wi' butter well spread

0:07:52 > 0:07:54And a coating of homemade jam

0:07:54 > 0:07:57An uncle sits by the proota pits

0:07:57 > 0:07:59as if that should shovel soil

0:07:59 > 0:08:01With a fire o' peat and a bite to eat

0:08:01 > 0:08:04At the end o' a hard day's toil.

0:08:04 > 0:08:06Well, I know in the last series,

0:08:06 > 0:08:08a lot of you enjoyed Mark Wilson's musical journey

0:08:08 > 0:08:10down the Old Wagon Road in America.

0:08:10 > 0:08:15Mark's off again. This time he's in Scotland.

0:08:27 > 0:08:30Last series, I packed up my drums and headed to America.

0:08:30 > 0:08:34I took a musical journey down through the Shenandoah Valley,

0:08:34 > 0:08:36down the Old Wagon Road.

0:08:36 > 0:08:40This time, I'm coming back to where the music all started,

0:08:40 > 0:08:42back in Scotland.

0:08:42 > 0:08:45But I'm starting my journey in England.

0:08:53 > 0:08:56And you might, quite rightly, be wondering why

0:08:56 > 0:09:00I'm starting a journey about Ulster-Scots music south of the border,

0:09:00 > 0:09:02here at Carlisle Castle.

0:09:02 > 0:09:04But it was within these walls

0:09:04 > 0:09:07that many of the border people were imprisoned.

0:09:07 > 0:09:11The rescue to capture one back again from the English forces,

0:09:11 > 0:09:16spawned a song 46 verses long, known as The Ballad Of Kinmont Willie.

0:09:16 > 0:09:19But there were many ballads written about these people

0:09:19 > 0:09:22because there were many Border Reivers.

0:09:22 > 0:09:24# Come a' ye gallant Borderers

0:09:24 > 0:09:27# Ilk water, moss and fell

0:09:27 > 0:09:30# Tae a' your weel kent nooks and crooks

0:09:30 > 0:09:33# Forever fare thee well

0:09:33 > 0:09:35# We'll gaun nae mair a-rovin'

0:09:35 > 0:09:38# A-rovin' in the nicht

0:09:38 > 0:09:40# We'll gaun nae mair a-rovin'

0:09:40 > 0:09:43# Let the moon shine e'er so bricht

0:09:43 > 0:09:45# We'll gaun nae mair a-rovin'

0:09:48 > 0:09:51# And when the harvest moon shone

0:09:51 > 0:09:53# What blithe times we did see... #

0:09:53 > 0:09:56Rod Paterson, you're probably the leading performer,

0:09:56 > 0:10:02singer and authority on Scottish Lowland and Border ballads.

0:10:02 > 0:10:06And the ballads was a huge tradition within the Border Reivers,

0:10:06 > 0:10:09and there are many ballads about the Reivers.

0:10:09 > 0:10:10There certainly are.

0:10:10 > 0:10:12When there's stuff going on

0:10:12 > 0:10:18like the wild kind of lawless antics of the Border Reivers,

0:10:18 > 0:10:25then that's going to occupy quite a lot of the available ballad space.

0:10:25 > 0:10:27# ..The king is ower the border gane

0:10:27 > 0:10:30# In London for tae dwell... #

0:10:30 > 0:10:35In the song that I sang you there which, incidentally, is not a ballad.

0:10:35 > 0:10:39That song was written in the early 1800s,

0:10:39 > 0:10:42with a retrospective view on the Border Reiving.

0:10:42 > 0:10:47But in the song they mention that the Border Reivers

0:10:47 > 0:10:49used to go to the Trent and the Humber.

0:10:49 > 0:10:51Now, that's weeks' ride away.

0:10:51 > 0:10:55These must have been massive expeditions,

0:10:55 > 0:11:00organised well in advance and with a goodly number of people.

0:11:00 > 0:11:02# ..And how can I, tether'd

0:11:02 > 0:11:05# On Yarrow's banks abide?

0:11:05 > 0:11:08# Wha far as Trent an Humber hae

0:11:08 > 0:11:10# Scour'd the Southrons wide.

0:11:10 > 0:11:13# We'll gaun nae mair a-rovin'... #

0:11:13 > 0:11:15Across the road from Carlisle Castle,

0:11:15 > 0:11:19is the Tully House Museum, which has a permanent exhibition on the Reivers.

0:11:19 > 0:11:23Reivers were basically lawless thieves, raiders and bandits.

0:11:23 > 0:11:28Families such as Armstrongs, Grahams, Elliots,

0:11:28 > 0:11:31were notorious raiding families from this area.

0:11:31 > 0:11:33But that was all to change

0:11:33 > 0:11:37when James VI and I came to the throne.

0:11:37 > 0:11:41He established a system called the Jedart System,

0:11:41 > 0:11:44which was basically zero tolerance.

0:11:44 > 0:11:50He told them to desist from their ways, move to Ulster or be hanged.

0:11:50 > 0:11:54Now, the Reivers loved their lawless way of life,

0:11:54 > 0:11:59and the only place they could continue that was Ulster.

0:11:59 > 0:12:04# An how now break ma bonnie Broon Tae harl't like a snail... #

0:12:04 > 0:12:06They must have had a bit of a gripe

0:12:06 > 0:12:09with the reasons that they've had to leave.

0:12:09 > 0:12:13Especially the ones that James VI and I

0:12:13 > 0:12:16transplanted over to Ulster.

0:12:16 > 0:12:19I mean, nobody was happy with that, I'm sure.

0:12:19 > 0:12:22I think the question you have to ask is,

0:12:22 > 0:12:26why did they take the ballads with them?

0:12:26 > 0:12:28And I think it just shows to what extent

0:12:28 > 0:12:33these stories were a part of their sense of themselves, you know.

0:12:33 > 0:12:37Are you going to leave your very heritage in Scotland,

0:12:37 > 0:12:40even although you're having to leave yourself?

0:12:40 > 0:12:42No, I think you take it all with you.

0:12:42 > 0:12:47It didn't occupy much space in your holdall, a ballad.

0:12:47 > 0:12:53# ..We'll gaun nae mair a-rovin' A-rovin' in the nicht

0:12:53 > 0:12:58# We'll gaun nae mair a-rovin' Let the moon shine e'er so bricht

0:12:58 > 0:13:01# We'll gaun nae mair a-rovin'! #

0:13:04 > 0:13:09Along the underpass between Carlisle Castle and the Tully House Museum,

0:13:09 > 0:13:12surnames of the Reivers are etched on the ground.

0:13:12 > 0:13:17Many of these names are common in Ulster, including Wilson.

0:13:17 > 0:13:20Maybe we weren't always good boys!

0:13:23 > 0:13:27Mark's Scottish journey that has taken off in Carlisle

0:13:27 > 0:13:31will take him to Dumfries, then on to Wigtown and Portpatrick,

0:13:31 > 0:13:33before he heads north to Dunoon,

0:13:33 > 0:13:36and finishes up in Campbeltown at the tip of the Mull of Kintyre.

0:13:36 > 0:13:39We'll be following his progress all through the series.

0:13:43 > 0:13:45My name is Luke Drysdale.

0:13:45 > 0:13:48I've come to the Cars Of Yesteryear exhibition at Mount Stewart.

0:13:48 > 0:13:50Now I'm going to have a look around.

0:13:56 > 0:14:01This here is a Ferrari 308 and it's got a V8 engine, right?

0:14:01 > 0:14:03And if you come round the back here,

0:14:03 > 0:14:05you can see that it's got a "4" on the back.

0:14:05 > 0:14:08It tells you that it's not a two-seater,

0:14:08 > 0:14:10which most Ferraris nowadays are.

0:14:10 > 0:14:14It's a four-seater, which makes it less valuable.

0:14:16 > 0:14:20This car has a three-litre V8 engine,

0:14:20 > 0:14:23and it's got 250 brake horse power.

0:14:23 > 0:14:27The top speed of it is 154 miles per hour.

0:14:27 > 0:14:29It goes from 0 to 60 in 6.9 seconds.

0:14:35 > 0:14:39Now, Michael Schumacher used to drive a Ferrari for most of his career,

0:14:39 > 0:14:42but now he's an old man he doesn't do very well.

0:14:42 > 0:14:45I've heard that choosing a Ferrari is like choosing a woman.

0:14:45 > 0:14:48You wouldn't want to go for an ugly one.

0:14:48 > 0:14:50You'd want to go for the nicest one you would see.

0:14:50 > 0:14:53But I'm too young to know about that stuff.

0:14:55 > 0:14:58You come from the same place as me, Michael.

0:14:58 > 0:15:00That's right, I'm from Portavogie.

0:15:00 > 0:15:03How many cars do you reckon are here today?

0:15:03 > 0:15:05I think there are at least 130.

0:15:05 > 0:15:08Why do you think they're so popular?

0:15:08 > 0:15:10If you look at the backdrop of this place,

0:15:10 > 0:15:13and you see the big house there,

0:15:13 > 0:15:16everybody loves to come to a place like this,

0:15:16 > 0:15:18because it's a lovely backdrop.

0:15:22 > 0:15:24What's your favourite car here today?

0:15:24 > 0:15:26I think it has to be this car.

0:15:26 > 0:15:28It's my favourite car here today, this Bugatti.

0:15:28 > 0:15:31Whoever owns this isn't afraid to get a bit of mud on it.

0:15:31 > 0:15:34Look at the dirt on her. He's not worried by that.

0:15:34 > 0:15:37That's what motoring's about.

0:15:39 > 0:15:41Now, this here car is a Morgan.

0:15:41 > 0:15:45I don't know very much about them, but I do know a man who does.

0:15:48 > 0:15:50Right, Andrew, I hear you like your cars.

0:15:50 > 0:15:52I'm very much into them.

0:15:52 > 0:15:54Can you tell me about this particular car?

0:15:54 > 0:15:59This one's a Morgan Plus 8. Morgan set out in 1909,

0:15:59 > 0:16:01building three-wheelers.

0:16:01 > 0:16:05Now these three-wheelers had a motorbike engine in them.

0:16:05 > 0:16:09From 1923, they started making four-wheelers with big V8s in them.

0:16:09 > 0:16:13Now this particular model here has a 4.6 litre V8 in it.

0:16:19 > 0:16:24So, that says 2006 here. So this here Morgan is a replica?

0:16:24 > 0:16:27Oh, no. All Morgans are hand-built nowadays.

0:16:27 > 0:16:32This one here, and the one behind it, they're both originals.

0:16:35 > 0:16:37Of the 130 cars on exhibit today,

0:16:37 > 0:16:41this Rolls Royce Silver Shadow has to be my favourite.

0:16:41 > 0:16:44It was made in 1978.

0:16:44 > 0:16:49Underneath the bonnet, it's got a 6.75 litre V8 engine.

0:16:49 > 0:16:51It's pretty big.

0:16:54 > 0:16:58Stephen, I see this is for sale. How much are you looking for it?

0:16:58 > 0:17:0024,000.

0:17:00 > 0:17:02That's a large amount.

0:17:02 > 0:17:04Would you take a tenner?

0:17:04 > 0:17:07- LAUGHING:- I don't think so, not today, not today.

0:17:07 > 0:17:09That's all I've got in my piggy-bank.

0:17:09 > 0:17:12That's all you've got in your piggy-bank?!

0:17:19 > 0:17:21You know the way in English,

0:17:21 > 0:17:24you could have one word spelled one road with one meaning?

0:17:24 > 0:17:25Well, in Ulster-Scots,

0:17:25 > 0:17:28we could have the very same word, spelled the very same road,

0:17:28 > 0:17:30but with two or three different meanings.

0:17:30 > 0:17:33This is something that could keep you talking for hours,

0:17:33 > 0:17:36as Liam Logan and Gary Blair found out.

0:17:43 > 0:17:46Gary, we talked about some words

0:17:46 > 0:17:48that have shared meanings and different meanings.

0:17:48 > 0:17:52One of the words that I would look at would be "road".

0:17:52 > 0:17:55Aye, I know that many a time I use it in many different ways,

0:17:55 > 0:17:56in many different "roads" even!

0:17:56 > 0:17:59Out of interest, since you're a lot of years my senior...

0:17:59 > 0:18:01You cheeky blurt, you!

0:18:01 > 0:18:05..what would you call a main thoroughfare, a main road?

0:18:05 > 0:18:07It was always called a "line".

0:18:07 > 0:18:08It still is.

0:18:08 > 0:18:11The Ballymena Line. The Portrush Line.

0:18:11 > 0:18:12And the Rasharkin Line.

0:18:12 > 0:18:16That was about the full extent of my universe when I was young.

0:18:16 > 0:18:18The funny thing is for a stranger coming,

0:18:18 > 0:18:20"Do you know the Finvoy Road?",

0:18:20 > 0:18:23if they were asking someone local, they'd say, "The Finvoy Road?

0:18:23 > 0:18:27"I'm not sure - I know where the Rasharkin Line is," though it's one and the same.

0:18:27 > 0:18:31And if you weren't doing too well in your work,

0:18:31 > 0:18:32and your employer wasn't impressed

0:18:32 > 0:18:35with what you were bringing to your daily task,

0:18:35 > 0:18:37he maybe would "give you the road".

0:18:37 > 0:18:39He more than likely would!

0:18:39 > 0:18:42And I think I've heard that used a wee bit in English

0:18:42 > 0:18:44about people being "down the road".

0:18:44 > 0:18:47"Down the road", meaning they got sacked or paid off.

0:18:47 > 0:18:49And then you have that other meaning for it,

0:18:49 > 0:18:53where if you're going to a dance, a disco or somewhere,

0:18:53 > 0:18:54you may "pay your own road in".

0:18:54 > 0:18:57You might have paid HER road in,

0:18:57 > 0:19:00but unfortunately, when I was doing a bit of courting,

0:19:00 > 0:19:02the girl sometimes had to pay her own road in!

0:19:02 > 0:19:04Did that happen often?

0:19:04 > 0:19:06Very often! But I'm like most Ulster-Scots -

0:19:06 > 0:19:08I'm very fond of a pound.

0:19:08 > 0:19:10She can pay her own road!

0:19:19 > 0:19:22Paula, that last bit of meat went down very well.

0:19:22 > 0:19:24What are we having after?

0:19:24 > 0:19:27Well, I'm going to do... It's a sticky Indian meal cake,

0:19:27 > 0:19:28so it's not polenta.

0:19:28 > 0:19:31But we use Indian meal in Ulster-Scots cooking.

0:19:31 > 0:19:34So, if you beat that, and I'll add the eggs.

0:19:34 > 0:19:35I'm beating this, right?

0:19:35 > 0:19:38Yes, that's lovely. Faster, come on!

0:19:38 > 0:19:42What do you think I am, a Kenwood?

0:19:42 > 0:19:44So, what do you have in this now?

0:19:44 > 0:19:46That's just the beaten butter and the sugar,

0:19:46 > 0:19:48then you add four eggs.

0:19:48 > 0:19:51- Right.- Now we're going to put in some plain flour,

0:19:51 > 0:19:53so if you keep beating.

0:19:53 > 0:19:54This is the corn meal, OK?

0:19:54 > 0:19:56It's nice in a cake because it's light -

0:19:56 > 0:19:58it lightens the cake.

0:19:58 > 0:20:01Oh, I tell you what, this better be some cake!

0:20:01 > 0:20:04Yes, so this is the cake. Now what I did...

0:20:04 > 0:20:06It came out of the oven, right,

0:20:06 > 0:20:08and I ran a skewer round the whole cake.

0:20:08 > 0:20:11Then just pour your whisky and honey syrup all over.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14I suppose that goes right in through the sponge.

0:20:14 > 0:20:17- That goes in and gives you a lovely, sticky cake.- Oh, lovely.

0:20:17 > 0:20:19We're going to do a wee bit of...

0:20:19 > 0:20:22I'm just going to do some apples and pears with this.

0:20:22 > 0:20:24A wee bit of raisins and some whisky action as well.

0:20:24 > 0:20:25So, a nice hot pan.

0:20:25 > 0:20:28Do you think Ulster-Scots cookery is fond of whisky?

0:20:28 > 0:20:30Whisky and honey.

0:20:48 > 0:20:50Paula, I hate this bit.

0:20:50 > 0:20:51I know you do, Anne.

0:20:51 > 0:20:53Especially when there's whisky in it.

0:20:53 > 0:20:55- Aye!- And it's sticky and...

0:20:55 > 0:20:57- Aye, whisky and honey. - Mmmmm!

0:21:04 > 0:21:08So, you're playing here at the festival, are you,

0:21:08 > 0:21:10- and your name is Duke Joint? - Duke Joint.

0:21:10 > 0:21:11And where are yous frae?

0:21:11 > 0:21:13We're frae Lurgan in Armagh!

0:21:13 > 0:21:17You'll have to get tasting this cake first then.

0:21:17 > 0:21:20There's whisky and honey in the apples and pears.

0:21:20 > 0:21:23There's Indian cornmeal in the cake.

0:21:23 > 0:21:25- It's beautiful. - Well fed and well musicked -

0:21:25 > 0:21:28well everything at this festival!

0:21:31 > 0:21:33APPLAUSE

0:21:36 > 0:21:40Just outside Hillsborough, you'll find the Kilwarlin Moravian Church.

0:21:40 > 0:21:43Out of the five Moravian churches in Ireland,

0:21:43 > 0:21:46Kilwarlin's the only one that can say it had a Greek chieftain

0:21:46 > 0:21:48working as its minister.

0:21:48 > 0:21:52In 1828, Basil Patras Zula, a young Greek chieftain,

0:21:52 > 0:21:57had to go into exile with a price on his head, put in place by the Turks.

0:21:57 > 0:22:00He ended up in Dublin, married a Moravian,

0:22:00 > 0:22:04trained to be a minister, and was called to work at Kilwarlin.

0:22:04 > 0:22:06Andy Mattison finds out more.

0:22:06 > 0:22:11So, Reverend Quaite, you served here for four years in the '60s

0:22:11 > 0:22:15and, of course, you were well beloved by the local folk around here.

0:22:15 > 0:22:18But an even more famous and even more, you could say,

0:22:18 > 0:22:20beloved person, was Basil Patras Zula.

0:22:20 > 0:22:25Indeed. Zula came here early in 1834, of course,

0:22:25 > 0:22:30when he found the church, manse etc in a ruinous state.

0:22:30 > 0:22:34If you look up above the entrance to the church,

0:22:34 > 0:22:36you can see the plaque.

0:22:36 > 0:22:38It tells you when Zula rebuilt the church -

0:22:38 > 0:22:42October 13th, 1834.

0:22:43 > 0:22:46There are not many churches like this one.

0:22:46 > 0:22:48It looks slightly Grecian

0:22:48 > 0:22:51with the minarets on either side.

0:22:53 > 0:22:56Zula, of course, as you know, was a Greek nobleman.

0:22:56 > 0:22:59There was a price on his head, put there by the Turks.

0:22:59 > 0:23:02And, even though he had arrived here in Ireland,

0:23:02 > 0:23:07and arrived here at Kilwarlin, he still had a fear of assassination.

0:23:07 > 0:23:10And so, when he was rebuilding the manse,

0:23:10 > 0:23:11he rebuilt it in such a way

0:23:11 > 0:23:15that every room in the house had two doors.

0:23:15 > 0:23:18And, indeed, the house had two staircases.

0:23:18 > 0:23:19Why two doors in every room?

0:23:19 > 0:23:22Was it if someone came through one, he could run out the other?

0:23:22 > 0:23:25Correct - a means of escape.

0:23:25 > 0:23:29And the little addition to the back of the building here

0:23:29 > 0:23:30is very interesting.

0:23:30 > 0:23:32Zula had that specially built,

0:23:32 > 0:23:35and on the floor there was a trap-door.

0:23:35 > 0:23:39Underneath was a hiding place, so that if he saw someone coming,

0:23:39 > 0:23:41thought he was going to be assassinated,

0:23:41 > 0:23:45he could nip in there through the trap-door and hide.

0:23:45 > 0:23:49Indeed, my wife actually used that little outshot as a sewing room

0:23:49 > 0:23:51when we lived here.

0:23:51 > 0:23:52She used to hide from you?

0:23:52 > 0:23:54Well, that's possible!

0:23:54 > 0:23:58Zula was homesick but couldn't return home

0:23:58 > 0:24:00so he employed the local Ulster-Scots folk

0:24:00 > 0:24:03to lay out and maintain the church grounds

0:24:03 > 0:24:06on the plan of the famous Greek battle of Thermopylae,

0:24:06 > 0:24:10including a grassy brae to represent Mount Oeta.

0:24:10 > 0:24:14You can't help but wonder what the local folk thought

0:24:14 > 0:24:15of this strange building -

0:24:15 > 0:24:19a representation of a Greek battle in front of their church,

0:24:19 > 0:24:22here in the middle of Kilwarlin outside Hillsborough.

0:24:22 > 0:24:24You know the Ulster folk as well as I do.

0:24:24 > 0:24:26They're rather pragmatic people, aren't they?

0:24:26 > 0:24:30Here was this gentleman employing them.

0:24:30 > 0:24:33They could feed their families at this rather difficult time.

0:24:36 > 0:24:40What Zula did, of course, was to put in a pond.

0:24:40 > 0:24:42It's a bit overgrown now.

0:24:42 > 0:24:46The pond represented the hot springs that gave Thermopylae its name.

0:24:46 > 0:24:48Around the pond,

0:24:48 > 0:24:52he created flower-beds of the 24 letters of the alphabet.

0:24:52 > 0:24:55It's just a little bit difficult to see.

0:24:55 > 0:24:58Well, of course this would be 150 years old.

0:24:58 > 0:24:59Oh, yes.

0:24:59 > 0:25:01So, as you're standing here,

0:25:01 > 0:25:03you can trace out - it looks like an upside-down V.

0:25:03 > 0:25:06- It does. - It looks like a V from this side,

0:25:06 > 0:25:08but come here, you can trace it round as "Alpha".

0:25:08 > 0:25:13And over here you do have just the start of the Omega

0:25:13 > 0:25:15- going under the trees there. - Yes, uh-huh.

0:25:16 > 0:25:19And in the grounds of the churchyard here,

0:25:19 > 0:25:21we have Zula lying in his grave.

0:25:21 > 0:25:24He died in October 1844.

0:25:24 > 0:25:25Yes, down at...

0:25:25 > 0:25:27And his wife is beside him.

0:25:27 > 0:25:29Yes, she died in 1858.

0:25:29 > 0:25:32But, of course, the question really is, is he there?

0:25:32 > 0:25:33Is he in the grave?

0:25:33 > 0:25:38Ah, you're referring to the legend that grew up following his death.

0:25:38 > 0:25:41The story goes that he was supposed to have seen

0:25:41 > 0:25:46a couple of rather foreign-looking gentlemen hanging around the place.

0:25:46 > 0:25:49He was, of course, going to Dublin on church business.

0:25:49 > 0:25:52So he thought that these foreign-looking gentlemen,

0:25:52 > 0:25:55- were the Turks come to get him. - Possibly.

0:25:55 > 0:26:00The story goes that it was arranged that he would go into hiding.

0:26:00 > 0:26:04Some people think that he may have gone back to Greece,

0:26:04 > 0:26:09and the coffin, when it was brought up to Kilwarlin from Dublin,

0:26:09 > 0:26:12contained stones instead of Zula's body.

0:26:12 > 0:26:14So the legend is that he didn't die in Dublin,

0:26:14 > 0:26:17that he actually faked his own death?

0:26:17 > 0:26:19Well, it could have happened that way,

0:26:19 > 0:26:21but I believe that's just a story.

0:26:21 > 0:26:23I personally prefer to believe

0:26:23 > 0:26:26that his remains are here with us, here at Kilwarlin.

0:26:30 > 0:26:32Well, that's near enough it.

0:26:32 > 0:26:34We hope you'll stay with us for the rest of the series.

0:26:34 > 0:26:37We're going to leave you now with some more good music.

0:26:45 > 0:26:48# Working on the farm, up at the crack of dawn

0:26:48 > 0:26:52# Jump out of bed, get your overalls on

0:26:52 > 0:26:55# Grab a slice of toast and whistle for the dog

0:26:56 > 0:27:00# Make the paddock ready, bring the cows down the road

0:27:02 > 0:27:06# Make the paddock ready, bring the cows down the road

0:27:12 > 0:27:15# Here comes Beauty, Number Eight

0:27:15 > 0:27:18# Three pulls of meal for she's milking great

0:27:18 > 0:27:22# Heifer behind her needs a kicking bar

0:27:23 > 0:27:27# Run and get the new one from the boot of the car

0:27:30 > 0:27:33# I'll get the new one from the boot of the car

0:27:39 > 0:27:42# Wake up, you boy you, you'd lie all day

0:27:42 > 0:27:45# A meal man in the yard and he's looking paid

0:27:45 > 0:27:50# You get the cheque book and I'll get the cows

0:27:50 > 0:27:55# When the last run's through, take them up to the knowes

0:27:56 > 0:28:00# When the last run's through, take them up to the knowes

0:28:39 > 0:28:42# Working on the farm, up at the crack of dawn

0:28:42 > 0:28:47# Jump out of bed and get your overalls on

0:28:48 > 0:28:57# Get your overalls on. #