0:00:02 > 0:00:06This programme contains some scenes which some viewers may find upsetting
0:00:06 > 0:00:09I've come to a wedding... with a difference. CHEERING
0:00:09 > 0:00:12I don't know who's covered in more of the stuff, the bride or me.
0:00:12 > 0:00:16It's taking place in a refugee camp in Jordan, in the Middle East,
0:00:16 > 0:00:19and is home to 80,000 people,
0:00:19 > 0:00:23who have fled the bombs and bullets or Syria's civil war.
0:00:24 > 0:00:27But what was supposed to be a temporary camp has now become
0:00:27 > 0:00:29a city the size of Bath,
0:00:29 > 0:00:31complete with nine schools,
0:00:31 > 0:00:3311 hospitals and clinics,
0:00:33 > 0:00:34two supermarkets,
0:00:34 > 0:00:37as well as playgrounds and sports centres,
0:00:37 > 0:00:41and it's all been built in just the last four years.
0:00:41 > 0:00:44SINGING And it's nothing like you'd expect.
0:00:44 > 0:00:47It's a tough place to be and no-one would choose to live here,
0:00:47 > 0:00:48but, as you can see,
0:00:48 > 0:00:50they're making the most of it because,
0:00:50 > 0:00:53even in the most difficult of circumstances, life has to go on.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58Like any other city on earth,
0:00:58 > 0:01:03Zaatari has births, deaths, marriages and everything in-between.
0:01:06 > 0:01:07And in this series,
0:01:07 > 0:01:11I will be exploring it with A&E doctor Javid Abdelmoneim.
0:01:11 > 0:01:13How often are you changing the dressings in a week?
0:01:13 > 0:01:17He'll be meeting the children recovering from the injuries of war.
0:01:17 > 0:01:20That big wound there is in the vicinity of a nerve.
0:01:20 > 0:01:23Journalist Ben Timberlake, a hostile environment expert,
0:01:23 > 0:01:26will find out how you feed tens of thousands of people
0:01:26 > 0:01:27who are far from home.
0:01:27 > 0:01:3190,000 loaves of bread come out of here in one night?
0:01:31 > 0:01:34So you've got the most important job in the camp.
0:01:36 > 0:01:40Meanwhile, I'll be meeting the army of workers that provide
0:01:40 > 0:01:44the essentials of food, shelter and water in a desert.
0:01:48 > 0:01:50Absolutely amazing.
0:01:50 > 0:01:53He's got it all up here. Who needs computers?
0:01:53 > 0:01:58The Syrian civil war has led to the biggest humanitarian crisis of our time.
0:01:58 > 0:02:01And we'll be getting under the skin of this unique metropolis,
0:02:01 > 0:02:04a place of huge logistical challenges,
0:02:04 > 0:02:06incredible, human stories...
0:02:06 > 0:02:09To discover how the spirit and ingenuity of the people
0:02:09 > 0:02:12who live here have turned this refugee camp
0:02:12 > 0:02:15into somewhere they can call home.
0:02:15 > 0:02:17Welcome to Zaatari.
0:02:25 > 0:02:29Four years ago, there was nothing here except desert.
0:02:34 > 0:02:37Now Zaatari is home to 80,000 people,
0:02:37 > 0:02:40one of the biggest cities in all of Jordan.
0:02:42 > 0:02:44It's in the far north of the country,
0:02:44 > 0:02:47just a few miles from the Syrian border.
0:02:50 > 0:02:51It's my first day here
0:02:51 > 0:02:55and the obvious place to start is on the high street.
0:02:55 > 0:02:58This is not what I was expecting at all.
0:02:58 > 0:03:00It's my first time in a refugee camp
0:03:00 > 0:03:03and maybe this isn't a typical set-up.
0:03:06 > 0:03:10Over 60% of people here have lived in Zaatari for more than two years,
0:03:10 > 0:03:13which has helped to create a strong sense of identity
0:03:13 > 0:03:14and community in the camp.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20From a collection of tents in the desert,
0:03:20 > 0:03:24Zaatari has grown organically as more and more refugees have arrived.
0:03:24 > 0:03:27It's now made up of 24,000 homes
0:03:27 > 0:03:30and covers more than five square kilometres.
0:03:32 > 0:03:34Dominating the camp, there are two key roads -
0:03:34 > 0:03:37Saudi Street and the main drag,
0:03:37 > 0:03:40which the locals have nicknamed the "Champs Elysees".
0:03:42 > 0:03:45Just trying to get my head around the scale of it. It's huge.
0:03:45 > 0:03:47It seems to just go on and on and on,
0:03:47 > 0:03:50and it's business after business after business.
0:03:50 > 0:03:52Since Zaatari was established,
0:03:52 > 0:03:56almost 3,000 small businesses have sprung up here
0:03:56 > 0:03:58as refugees have used whatever money
0:03:58 > 0:04:01they've brought from Syria to set up shop.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04Somebody's selling spices.
0:04:04 > 0:04:05Oh, that smells amazing.
0:04:05 > 0:04:06Telephone repair shop,
0:04:06 > 0:04:09second-hand TVs in the satellite shop,
0:04:09 > 0:04:13toys, torches, socks, clothes, shoes and boots,
0:04:13 > 0:04:16bicycles, kettles, nappies...
0:04:16 > 0:04:19You name it. I mean, this is... This is just...
0:04:19 > 0:04:22This doesn't feel like I'm in a refugee camp at all.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28Zaatari is run and paid for by the Jordanian government
0:04:28 > 0:04:32and UN's Refugee Agency, along with over 30 different charities
0:04:32 > 0:04:36at a cost of £10m a month.
0:04:36 > 0:04:40But it is the refugees that have given the camp its character
0:04:40 > 0:04:43as they've tried to replicate life back in Syria.
0:04:43 > 0:04:45Oh, wow. This is quite interesting.
0:04:46 > 0:04:50Now I was not expecting to see ballgowns here!
0:04:52 > 0:04:54Assalaamu Alaikum. Salam.
0:04:54 > 0:04:56When do Syrian women wear these dresses?
0:05:01 > 0:05:04Wow. I had no idea that this is what women wore on their wedding.
0:05:04 > 0:05:07They're very glamorous. They're very revealing.
0:05:20 > 0:05:23That is incredible.
0:05:23 > 0:05:26You know, it's silly to think that I was surprised that
0:05:26 > 0:05:28a wedding shop would exist in a refugee camp
0:05:28 > 0:05:31cos, of course, people need to get married.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33And maybe there will be a wedding I could gate-crash.
0:05:33 > 0:05:35HE LAUGHS
0:05:35 > 0:05:39There are more than ten weddings in the camp every single week.
0:05:39 > 0:05:41Though no-one would choose to marry here,
0:05:41 > 0:05:44just as no-one would choose to live here,
0:05:44 > 0:05:48it's a sign that people are getting on with their lives.
0:05:48 > 0:05:52There's a falafel place just on about every corner here.
0:05:52 > 0:05:54Check out how fast this guy is.
0:05:56 > 0:05:59How many can you make in a day? How many falafels?
0:06:03 > 0:06:067,000 pieces? That's pretty impressive.
0:06:09 > 0:06:12It's very hard for refugees to work legally in Jordan,
0:06:12 > 0:06:15but, in the camp, the authorities turn a blind eye.
0:06:15 > 0:06:19Around 60% of the working age population earn some income,
0:06:19 > 0:06:21either from a business
0:06:21 > 0:06:24or by working for one of the charities that operate here.
0:06:24 > 0:06:27It's enough to give Zaatari a sense of normality,
0:06:27 > 0:06:29until you look a little closer.
0:06:29 > 0:06:32It's taken me a while to grasp, on the face of it,
0:06:32 > 0:06:35this is a completely normal high street.
0:06:35 > 0:06:40But, actually, there isn't a single building that's got a first floor.
0:06:40 > 0:06:45It's a clear indication of the fact that Zaatari isn't an ordinary town.
0:06:45 > 0:06:48And the people here may have escaped war,
0:06:48 > 0:06:50but they have no citizenship rights in Jordan
0:06:50 > 0:06:54and aren't allowed to leave the camp without a permit.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57I keep having to remind myself that everybody who lives here
0:06:57 > 0:07:00is here because, just six miles in that direction,
0:07:00 > 0:07:02there is a war raging in their country.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09After five years of this brutal civil war,
0:07:09 > 0:07:11Syria is in ruins.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15Civilian areas have borne the brunt of the fighting,
0:07:15 > 0:07:20with thousands of schools, hospitals and houses turned to rubble.
0:07:21 > 0:07:25A quarter of a million people have been killed
0:07:25 > 0:07:28and more than five million have fled.
0:07:28 > 0:07:31Of those, a million have made the journey to Europe whilst the
0:07:31 > 0:07:35majority have stayed in neighbouring countries.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39Now thousands of Syrians are trying to build new homes
0:07:39 > 0:07:42and new lives here in Zaatari.
0:07:45 > 0:07:47So, when you step off the main road, this is what it's like.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51It's not Tarmac-ed at all. It's just the raw desert underfoot -
0:07:51 > 0:07:52very dusty, very sandy -
0:07:52 > 0:07:57and then there's just rows and rows of these pre-fabricated caravans
0:07:57 > 0:07:59that everyone lives in, really.
0:07:59 > 0:08:03It's all very samey, it's all very monotonous, it's all very basic.
0:08:03 > 0:08:07When people first came here in July 2012,
0:08:07 > 0:08:09they were initially living in tents.
0:08:09 > 0:08:13But as temperatures range from below freezing to over 40,
0:08:13 > 0:08:17the tents have been replaced by 24,000 portakabins.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21I'm on my way to meet someone who has turned his portakabin
0:08:21 > 0:08:25into one of the most distinctive homes in the camp.
0:08:25 > 0:08:26What is that?
0:08:27 > 0:08:29That's the first swing I've seen.
0:08:29 > 0:08:31CHILDREN SHOUTING Someone's having fun.
0:08:31 > 0:08:33Assalaamu Alaikum.
0:08:33 > 0:08:35- Hello, hello, hello! - Oh, hello, hello!
0:08:37 > 0:08:39Did you build this?
0:08:55 > 0:08:56What else have you built?
0:08:56 > 0:08:58I'm fascinated by your house.
0:08:58 > 0:08:59Can we have a look inside?
0:09:02 > 0:09:06He's got yoghurt, he's got cheese, and that's butter.
0:09:06 > 0:09:07Yeah.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10And that's because this is really cool.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12So it's like a fridge.
0:09:12 > 0:09:13Yeah.
0:09:23 > 0:09:25If you're bald, you've got brains.
0:09:25 > 0:09:26SHE LAUGHS
0:09:26 > 0:09:28So you made a gym?
0:09:28 > 0:09:30You ready?
0:09:30 > 0:09:31SHE GROANS
0:09:31 > 0:09:33HE LAUGHS
0:09:33 > 0:09:35THEY LAUGHS
0:09:35 > 0:09:37'As well as being a handyman about the house,
0:09:37 > 0:09:42'back in Syria, Ziad made a living by selling fruit and veg.'
0:09:42 > 0:09:44Oh, wow! ROOSTER CROW
0:09:44 > 0:09:46Of course you'd have a garden.
0:09:46 > 0:09:48Ziad, this is incredible.
0:09:48 > 0:09:49Hmm.
0:09:51 > 0:09:53Mint.
0:09:53 > 0:09:55What was your house in Syria like?
0:10:03 > 0:10:06How does it feel to have had to leave it all behind?
0:10:23 > 0:10:27So just how bad were things in Syria when you left?
0:10:43 > 0:10:47'Like everyone in Zaatari, Ziad has left everything behind,
0:10:47 > 0:10:51'but he is doing all he can to turn this small patch of desert
0:10:51 > 0:10:53'into a new home.'
0:10:53 > 0:10:54Ziad, what type of tree is this?
0:10:56 > 0:10:58Lemons.
0:10:58 > 0:11:02We're planting a lemon tree in the desert - fantastic.
0:11:02 > 0:11:03It's a bit rocky.
0:11:03 > 0:11:07To have a herb garden in the desert is not an easy job.
0:11:15 > 0:11:16SHE LAUGHS
0:11:16 > 0:11:18You're going to call it Anita?
0:11:18 > 0:11:19HE LAUGHS
0:11:19 > 0:11:22I hope it gives you nice, big, juicy lemons.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29Well, that was totally unexpected.
0:11:29 > 0:11:31I'm amazed at Ziad's ingenuity.
0:11:31 > 0:11:35He's obviously the Mr Fix It who can build absolutely anything.
0:11:35 > 0:11:39Even in a desert, in a refugee camp, humans have the ability
0:11:39 > 0:11:42to turn a little corner of it into their castle.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48But despite Ziad's talents, it's hard to imagine anyone
0:11:48 > 0:11:51surviving here without the help of the authorities,
0:11:51 > 0:11:54who provide the building blocks of life in the camp.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57There's just so much to get your head around about this place,
0:11:57 > 0:11:59how it was set up and how it's run.
0:11:59 > 0:12:03So I'm off to meet the guy who's the top dog here,
0:12:03 > 0:12:06who's in control of the entire camp.
0:12:06 > 0:12:07Assalaamu Alaikum.
0:12:09 > 0:12:11- This is one of the imams. - Ah, Assalaamu Alaikum.
0:12:13 > 0:12:17Hovig Etyemezian, from Lebanon, is the UN's manager on-site,
0:12:17 > 0:12:21and knows how hard it is to establish a camp like this.
0:12:21 > 0:12:24I think every camp has different stages.
0:12:24 > 0:12:25At its inception,
0:12:25 > 0:12:29usually it's difficult moments where you have thousands of
0:12:29 > 0:12:35refugees crossing the border, traumatised, in need of assistance.
0:12:35 > 0:12:38So at the beginning, it's usually a little bit more chaotic.
0:12:41 > 0:12:43Although the camp seems safe and well organised,
0:12:43 > 0:12:46Zaatari used to be a very different place.
0:12:47 > 0:12:50In the early days, crime was rife, and there were a couple of
0:12:50 > 0:12:54riots every week, as residents fought for better conditions.
0:12:55 > 0:12:58Now, thanks to a local Jordanian police force,
0:12:58 > 0:13:02and the maturing services, the situation has got better.
0:13:02 > 0:13:05How much of the way Zaatari has developed and become what it is,
0:13:05 > 0:13:08how much of that is down to the people themselves,
0:13:08 > 0:13:09the Syrian people that are here?
0:13:09 > 0:13:13I think, most of it, the refugees take the credit.
0:13:13 > 0:13:16Because what happens in camps is that refugees try
0:13:16 > 0:13:20to replicate a resemblance of what is a normal life back home.
0:13:20 > 0:13:21In a camp set-up.
0:13:21 > 0:13:26It is also not a secret that we have a highly skilled Syrian population.
0:13:27 > 0:13:30We have the doctors and the engineers and the teachers
0:13:30 > 0:13:34and the carpenters and the welders and all of them are trying to
0:13:34 > 0:13:37make the best out of a situation.
0:13:37 > 0:13:39What does Zaatari say about the Syrian people?
0:13:39 > 0:13:44Life in a camp is a very difficult life. It's a life of dependency.
0:13:44 > 0:13:47But the Syrians are not waiting for a hand-out,
0:13:47 > 0:13:49they are pushing the boundaries.
0:13:49 > 0:13:53They are trying to, within the realm of possibilities,
0:13:53 > 0:13:55have a decent life.
0:13:55 > 0:13:57You can see that, that's all around us.
0:14:02 > 0:14:06With 80,000 people living here, Zaatari is now full.
0:14:06 > 0:14:10But a few refugees every month still move into the camp,
0:14:10 > 0:14:13because they have a medical need to be here.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16As a doctor himself, Javid Abudul-Monim is heading to
0:14:16 > 0:14:21one of the camp's hospitals to find out what they have to deal with.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24Which patients do you envisage coming in this ward?
0:14:24 > 0:14:27We'll put a patient with a spinal-cord injury here,
0:14:27 > 0:14:29and another one next to him.
0:14:29 > 0:14:33There are 11 hospitals and medical centres in Zaatari.
0:14:33 > 0:14:36They all treat the usual health issues that you'd find in
0:14:36 > 0:14:38any city of this size, anywhere in the world.
0:14:38 > 0:14:40Except this one.
0:14:43 > 0:14:47It's run by the medical charity Medecins Sans Frontieres,
0:14:47 > 0:14:51and looks after patients recovering from injuries of war.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54- So they're all trauma victims? - Yes, they are all blast injury.
0:14:54 > 0:14:58Recently, we are receiving more spinal-cord injuries than before.
0:14:58 > 0:15:03- So they come with paraplegia, hemiplegia, sometimes quadriplegia. - Gosh.
0:15:03 > 0:15:07We received patients who couldn't move anything but their face.
0:15:07 > 0:15:12- It's really difficult. They are young people.- It's a lot of input.
0:15:12 > 0:15:15One third of the hospitals in Syria have been destroyed,
0:15:15 > 0:15:18and half the country's doctors have fled.
0:15:18 > 0:15:22So many injured Syrians end up leaving their homeland for treatment.
0:15:22 > 0:15:26Every week, we receive five to six patients,
0:15:26 > 0:15:27today we are receiving seven.
0:15:27 > 0:15:31When they come, they're weak, they are hungry, they are cold.
0:15:31 > 0:15:35So we have everything ready for them, we welcome them,
0:15:35 > 0:15:38and give them what they need.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40There are 40 beds in the hospital,
0:15:40 > 0:15:43looked after by ten foreign and Jordanian doctors.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46They oversee the rehabilitation of patients here.
0:15:46 > 0:15:50But major surgery takes place at hospitals elsewhere in Jordan.
0:15:50 > 0:15:54So I've just been given a list of the admissions this afternoon.
0:15:54 > 0:15:55Seven patients.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59The first two are related, it's an aunt and niece.
0:15:59 > 0:16:01The niece is only ten months old.
0:16:01 > 0:16:04Her mother died in the very same explosion.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08The next three are 22, 21 and 20-year-olds,
0:16:08 > 0:16:11all with spinal-cord injuries.
0:16:11 > 0:16:15And the last two are orthopaedic - one with a thigh bone fracture,
0:16:15 > 0:16:19but also a head injury and a left arm broken.
0:16:19 > 0:16:21And the other is a right above-knee amputation,
0:16:21 > 0:16:23so a whole list of blast injuries.
0:16:28 > 0:16:30Patients arriving here come from other hospitals
0:16:30 > 0:16:33closer to the front line.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36They've already had the emergency treatment that in many cases
0:16:36 > 0:16:37will have saved their lives.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40But many more operations could lie ahead.
0:16:41 > 0:16:43It's complicated surgery.
0:16:43 > 0:16:47Infections deep in bones, metalwork inside and out, nerve damage,
0:16:47 > 0:16:49vessel damage, skin grafting.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52It's really high-end surgery, it's not simple stuff.
0:16:52 > 0:16:55Even in Britain, this would be tough.
0:16:55 > 0:16:58Tomorrow, I'm going to meet some of the patients,
0:16:58 > 0:17:00to find out exactly what they need.
0:17:05 > 0:17:07Most refugees arrived into the camp
0:17:07 > 0:17:10with hardly any possessions or money.
0:17:10 > 0:17:13That means the vast majority rely on food aid.
0:17:15 > 0:17:19And feeding tens of thousands of people is an enormous challenge.
0:17:19 > 0:17:20Hi.
0:17:22 > 0:17:25Do I need to get the whole outfit on as well?
0:17:25 > 0:17:28Ben Timberlake has come to a bakery in the camp,
0:17:28 > 0:17:30run by the World Food Programme.
0:17:30 > 0:17:32I feel like I'm scrubbing up for an operation,
0:17:32 > 0:17:34rather than making some bread.
0:17:34 > 0:17:38Head baker Nibal Sawahla - a baker from Syria who's worked
0:17:38 > 0:17:42here for three years - is going to show me around.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45It's absolutely huge in here, and dusty.
0:17:45 > 0:17:46And incredibly hot as well.
0:17:51 > 0:17:53These bags of flour,
0:17:53 > 0:17:55how many of those do you get through every night?
0:17:57 > 0:17:58Wow.
0:17:58 > 0:18:00And how many pieces of bread does that make?
0:18:05 > 0:18:0890,000 loaves of bread come out of here in one night?
0:18:08 > 0:18:11So you've got the most important job in the camp?
0:18:16 > 0:18:19Bread is a staple of Syrian life.
0:18:19 > 0:18:21So important, that the bakery opened
0:18:21 > 0:18:23just a few months after people first arrived here.
0:18:25 > 0:18:29I don't have a clue what I'm doing, but this is like,
0:18:29 > 0:18:31welcome to the Great Syrian Bake-Off.
0:18:35 > 0:18:36What is this?
0:18:38 > 0:18:39OK.
0:18:43 > 0:18:47After being mixed, the dough is ready to be shaped into loaves.
0:18:53 > 0:18:54Go on!
0:18:54 > 0:18:58The weight of each loaf has to be precisely 65g.
0:19:00 > 0:19:01Uh-huh.
0:19:07 > 0:19:09So you adjust that one.
0:19:09 > 0:19:10Now, shall I check?
0:19:11 > 0:19:12Bingo!
0:19:17 > 0:19:18So all of those little,
0:19:18 > 0:19:22tiny balls of dough are now being squished into something
0:19:22 > 0:19:26that's much more recognisable as Middle Eastern bread.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29Despite the effort that goes into getting every piece of bread
0:19:29 > 0:19:30just right...
0:19:33 > 0:19:36..it doesn't always go according to plan.
0:19:42 > 0:19:44OK, cool.
0:19:45 > 0:19:46This is the final bit,
0:19:46 > 0:19:49they're going into the oven right now and being baked.
0:19:51 > 0:19:54How long do they spend in the oven then?
0:19:58 > 0:20:01Five seconds? That's nothing!
0:20:03 > 0:20:05It's like the magic of finding out
0:20:05 > 0:20:07where little baby pitta breads come from.
0:20:09 > 0:20:11How many does every person in the camp get?
0:20:11 > 0:20:12How many pieces of bread?
0:20:14 > 0:20:16Are they good to eat now?
0:20:19 > 0:20:21That's actually very, very good.
0:20:23 > 0:20:26Once the bread has cooled, it's packed up.
0:20:30 > 0:20:32So the room that was empty about ten minutes ago,
0:20:32 > 0:20:36is suddenly starting to fill up with these crates of bread.
0:20:36 > 0:20:39All of the people working in the bakery are refugees who live in
0:20:39 > 0:20:43the camp, and earn a small wage for their efforts.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46After a long night's work here, do you go home and eat more bread,
0:20:46 > 0:20:49or are you completely sick of the sight of it?
0:20:59 > 0:21:01LAUGHTER
0:21:01 > 0:21:04The workers continue through the night.
0:21:04 > 0:21:08And at 6am, the bread is ready to be distributed around the camp.
0:21:13 > 0:21:14Smells so good in here!
0:21:14 > 0:21:17Freshly baked bread, and it's really warm.
0:21:17 > 0:21:21The final job of the shift is to load the bread onto the trucks.
0:21:23 > 0:21:24All right, here we go.
0:21:24 > 0:21:27Last one. We're done.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30Now, this truck's going to go to one of four distribution points,
0:21:30 > 0:21:32where the residents of the camp will turn up with their vouchers
0:21:32 > 0:21:35to receive their four loaves of bread.
0:21:35 > 0:21:36I'd better get going.
0:21:41 > 0:21:44Now you can see that the camp is coming to life.
0:21:44 > 0:21:47Little girls with their rucksacks on going to school.
0:21:49 > 0:21:51These women have got their bread.
0:21:51 > 0:21:53Carrying it on their heads.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09Seeing all these people ready to collect their free bread
0:22:09 > 0:22:12is a reminder just how reliant people are on aid.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19This is the distribution point, you've got men on one side, women on the other.
0:22:19 > 0:22:20- Assalaamu Alaikum. - Assalaamu Alaikum.
0:22:20 > 0:22:22Run by the world food programme,
0:22:22 > 0:22:26refugees have to bring their ration cards, showing how many people
0:22:26 > 0:22:29are in their family, and therefore how much bread they're entitled to.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32How many families are you collecting for?
0:22:32 > 0:22:35One, two, three, four,
0:22:35 > 0:22:37five, six, seven, eight!
0:22:37 > 0:22:39Eight families!
0:22:39 > 0:22:41You're going to carry all this bread home?
0:22:41 > 0:22:44So this young man, he's got...
0:22:44 > 0:22:46Six. So that's 24.
0:22:46 > 0:22:49So that'll be one of these, because it's got 18.
0:22:49 > 0:22:52And an extra six. They you go.
0:22:52 > 0:22:54He's very chatty... Are you all right?
0:22:54 > 0:22:56- No, no, no.- There you go. THE BOY PROTESTS
0:22:56 > 0:22:57What do you want?
0:22:57 > 0:23:00He's obviously got a problem with my service here.
0:23:03 > 0:23:04Things are starting to quiet down,
0:23:04 > 0:23:07but they're not going to stop for another hour and a half.
0:23:07 > 0:23:09They've been at it from seven till ten in the morning,
0:23:09 > 0:23:11and they won't finish until all the bread's gone.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17Altogether, more than 300,000 loaves are given out in Zaatari
0:23:17 > 0:23:19every single day.
0:23:19 > 0:23:22But people can't survive on bread alone.
0:23:22 > 0:23:24Residents are free to buy whatever they want
0:23:24 > 0:23:27in the various shops on the high street, if they've got the money.
0:23:28 > 0:23:32But I'm heading to one of the two supermarkets in Zaatari,
0:23:32 > 0:23:36to see what other support people here receive.
0:23:36 > 0:23:40When the camp first opened, people were given a food ration box
0:23:40 > 0:23:43with the basics - salt, sugar, rice, pasta, lentils.
0:23:43 > 0:23:46But as it became obvious they were going to be staying here
0:23:46 > 0:23:49longer than they thought, to allow people to feel more normal
0:23:49 > 0:23:53and to give them some choice, they decided to change the system,
0:23:53 > 0:23:57and now each person in a family is given a £20 food allowance.
0:23:57 > 0:24:02So a family of five get £100 per month to spend at two supermarkets
0:24:02 > 0:24:06in the camp. One of them is Safeway.
0:24:07 > 0:24:11Oh, wow. It's a proper supermarket.
0:24:11 > 0:24:15You presume that in a refugee camp things would be quite basic,
0:24:15 > 0:24:20but you've got vegetables, fresh fruit, dates, olive oil.
0:24:21 > 0:24:23It says here, "Made in Jordan."
0:24:25 > 0:24:28With much of the produce home-grown in this country,
0:24:28 > 0:24:32the supermarket is one of the ways in which the Jordanian economy
0:24:32 > 0:24:35benefits from the arrival of refugees.
0:24:35 > 0:24:37It's just like any supermarket in the world,
0:24:37 > 0:24:41where they even try and push products on you by samples.
0:24:41 > 0:24:43What are we sampling here? What is it?
0:24:43 > 0:24:45What am I about to eat?
0:24:45 > 0:24:49"Chicken Luncheon," oh, gosh.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52Is it good? Let's try. I have to smell it.
0:24:55 > 0:24:57Mm. It's like Spam.
0:24:59 > 0:25:01The prices are a little bit expensive.
0:25:01 > 0:25:04Things in here are not as cheap as you think.
0:25:04 > 0:25:06Just under £3 for all those eggs.
0:25:06 > 0:25:09So your £20 per person isn't going to go that far.
0:25:11 > 0:25:14Everyone in the camp gets that £20 per month from the authorities,
0:25:14 > 0:25:16whether they're a baby or an adult.
0:25:19 > 0:25:20It isn't a lot of money,
0:25:20 > 0:25:24but crucially it allows people here to take control of their own
0:25:24 > 0:25:27spending, rather than relying on ration packs and food hand-outs.
0:25:29 > 0:25:31HE SHOUTS
0:25:38 > 0:25:41I'm back at the hospital, run by Medecins Sans Frontieres,
0:25:41 > 0:25:45to meet some of Zaatari's newest arrivals.
0:25:45 > 0:25:49- Good morning. Shall we start with the little boy?- Yes.- All right.
0:25:49 > 0:25:52I'm just going to join the whole team for the morning ward round.
0:25:55 > 0:25:56Nine years old,
0:25:56 > 0:26:01the patient was injured in Syria and that caused the left eye loss.
0:26:01 > 0:26:04- The plan is getting the prosthetic eye.- The prosthetic eye.
0:26:04 > 0:26:07While he waits for a prosthetic eye, Mohamed is living in the
0:26:07 > 0:26:10hospital with his father sleeping in the bed next to his.
0:26:26 > 0:26:28Identical, huh?
0:26:30 > 0:26:32Do you remember that day, Mohamed?
0:26:52 > 0:26:56In some respects, Mohamed is one of the lucky ones.
0:26:56 > 0:27:00More than 15,000 children have so far been killed during the conflict.
0:27:04 > 0:27:07In the ward is another boy, also called Mohamed,
0:27:07 > 0:27:10also permanently affected by the war.
0:27:10 > 0:27:13His current problem is his tib fib fracture.
0:27:15 > 0:27:17Mohamed's leg was severely wounded when
0:27:17 > 0:27:19he was hit by shrapnel eight months ago.
0:27:19 > 0:27:23- It's an open fracture, soft tissue defect.- It's open as well?- Yes.
0:27:23 > 0:27:26Soft tissue defect, so a really awful injury.
0:27:26 > 0:27:29So, doing the best to save the leg at all costs, rather than amputate?
0:27:29 > 0:27:33- Yes.- How he sustained the injury initially, it was a blast?
0:27:33 > 0:27:35OK.
0:27:39 > 0:27:42When you're out and about inside Zaatari camp itself, life feels
0:27:42 > 0:27:45calm, it feels safe, people are getting on with things,
0:27:45 > 0:27:48and it's easy to forget therefore that there's a war going on
0:27:48 > 0:27:50just a few miles away.
0:27:50 > 0:27:52But in here, in the rehab hospital,
0:27:52 > 0:27:55you meet people who have lost limbs, people who are really being
0:27:55 > 0:27:59affected by that violence, victims of war. It brings it home.
0:28:09 > 0:28:12Mohamed's bones still haven't healed and he needs
0:28:12 > 0:28:15regular painful changes of the cast on his leg to prevent
0:28:15 > 0:28:17the open wound becoming infected.
0:28:20 > 0:28:22HE SHOUTS
0:28:23 > 0:28:26How often are you changing the dressings in a week?
0:28:26 > 0:28:29We change the dressing twice weekly.
0:28:32 > 0:28:34When he's cleaning in there, he feels electric nerve pain
0:28:34 > 0:28:36coming down here.
0:28:36 > 0:28:39And that big wound there is in the vicinity of a nerve
0:28:39 > 0:28:42- which wraps around your knee. - MOHAMED GROANS
0:28:42 > 0:28:45He's lost that nerve, he can't lift up his foot any more.
0:28:45 > 0:28:47That's something that cannot recover, so he's
0:28:47 > 0:28:51permanently paralysed, in the sense that he can't lift his foot up.
0:28:57 > 0:29:01The dressing change is a two-man job, and Mohamed's father,
0:29:01 > 0:29:03who lives in the hospital with him, often helps.
0:29:06 > 0:29:09He feels that the bone moves and that's what's painful when
0:29:09 > 0:29:12the whole leg was lifted, without the support of the plaster of Paris.
0:29:16 > 0:29:20So, the bones aren't likely to heal now unless he has a bone graft,
0:29:20 > 0:29:23so the plaster there now is really just to stop the bone ends
0:29:23 > 0:29:25rubbing and causing him pain.
0:29:25 > 0:29:29It's as raw as having two broken bones rubbing against each other.
0:29:29 > 0:29:31HE CRIES OUT
0:29:32 > 0:29:35Mohamed will have to wait until the risk of infection in his leg
0:29:35 > 0:29:39is clear before he can potentially have a bone graft to heal the break.
0:29:45 > 0:29:51It still gets me to see this many of this type of injury in one place.
0:29:51 > 0:29:56Everybody here has this type of blast injury caused by violence.
0:29:56 > 0:30:00Look how many patients are in wheelchairs. That's not normal.
0:30:00 > 0:30:04That's when it hits me, that it's something big going on,
0:30:04 > 0:30:05something quite extraordinary.
0:30:07 > 0:30:12Every one of the 80,000 people in Zaatari has a story about the war.
0:30:12 > 0:30:15The home they've given up, the friends or family they might
0:30:15 > 0:30:19have lost, the future that was taken from them.
0:30:22 > 0:30:26But people here are also trying to build a new future.
0:30:28 > 0:30:30In Indian culture, they say the darker the henna,
0:30:30 > 0:30:33the more your mother-in-law loves you.
0:30:34 > 0:30:37THEY LAUGH
0:30:37 > 0:30:39She's got it on her nose! Hang on, hang on, we need a tissue.
0:30:39 > 0:30:43She can't be having henna on her nose on her wedding day.
0:30:43 > 0:30:46'I've met up with 18-year-old Montaha as she prepares to get
0:30:46 > 0:30:49'married to someone she's met in the camp.'
0:30:49 > 0:30:53Tell me about your husband-to-be. Tell me what you know about him.
0:31:06 > 0:31:09Have you spoken to him? Have you had a conversation?
0:31:09 > 0:31:10What did you like about him?
0:31:18 > 0:31:21Like most of the people in the camp, Montaha is from
0:31:21 > 0:31:25a very conservative part of Syria, where arranged marriages are common.
0:31:45 > 0:31:48Do you think if you were still in Syria you'd be getting
0:31:48 > 0:31:49married now, at 18?
0:32:04 > 0:32:07What did you want to do? What was your dream?
0:32:19 > 0:32:22Montaha's wedding is in a few days' time.
0:32:22 > 0:32:25Javid is off to meet her husband-to-be,
0:32:25 > 0:32:2820-year-old hairdresser Moussa.
0:32:28 > 0:32:30Wow, what's this room?
0:32:35 > 0:32:36Cool.
0:33:06 > 0:33:07Come and look in here.
0:33:07 > 0:33:10They've gone as far as getting face creams and perfumes,
0:33:10 > 0:33:12some jewellery, hairbrush...
0:33:12 > 0:33:14Every last detail. It's really cool.
0:33:14 > 0:33:17Tell me about your bride, though. Where did you meet?
0:33:44 > 0:33:47The cost of keeping this camp running is huge,
0:33:47 > 0:33:52at around £320,000 every single day.
0:33:52 > 0:33:55I'm heading to the outskirts of the camp to see how one of the
0:33:55 > 0:34:00biggest challenges is dealt with - getting water in a desert.
0:34:00 > 0:34:04Originally, water was being trucked into Zaatari at great expense
0:34:04 > 0:34:07and when it became obvious that people were going to be here
0:34:07 > 0:34:10for quite some time, they had to come up with another solution.
0:34:10 > 0:34:11This is it.
0:34:11 > 0:34:16So they dug three boreholes within the camp and this is one of them
0:34:16 > 0:34:21that's tapping into a water table 450 metres deep.
0:34:21 > 0:34:22There we go.
0:34:22 > 0:34:26There we go, that is water coming straight out of the earth
0:34:26 > 0:34:28and it's warm, because it's coming from so deep down.
0:34:31 > 0:34:34The water is filtered and chlorinated
0:34:34 > 0:34:38so that it meets the standards of tap water across Jordan.
0:34:38 > 0:34:42With no mains delivery system in the camp, it has to be trucked
0:34:42 > 0:34:45to individual tanks that directly feed the Portakabins.
0:34:46 > 0:34:50But first, every truckload has to undergo some vigorous testing.
0:34:52 > 0:34:54He's the most hydrated man on camp!
0:34:56 > 0:34:59And now this is the chlorine test.
0:34:59 > 0:35:03So, they put a little tablet in and then he'll look at his chart,
0:35:03 > 0:35:07along the side, to see whether it falls within the right numbers.
0:35:07 > 0:35:09- What do you think? - This is good.- Yeah.
0:35:09 > 0:35:12'Then it's just a matter of getting the purified water
0:35:12 > 0:35:13'to Zaatari's residents.'
0:35:13 > 0:35:17Assalaamu Alaikum. OK. The water's going to get delivered.
0:35:21 > 0:35:25Another truck coming back to base camp to fill up with more water.
0:35:25 > 0:35:29There's 55 of these trucks and each of them does about four trips a day.
0:35:29 > 0:35:30OTHER TRUCK HONKS
0:35:30 > 0:35:34I mean, just running these trucks is about £1 million a year.
0:35:34 > 0:35:38It's dawning on me the importance and the difficulty
0:35:38 > 0:35:39of getting water to Zaatari.
0:35:39 > 0:35:41I mean, look around - it's just deserts.
0:35:46 > 0:35:50Every individual gets 35 litres of water a day.
0:35:51 > 0:35:54It may sound like a lot, but that's for drinking, cooking,
0:35:54 > 0:35:58cleaning, washing, flushing the toilet, everything.
0:35:58 > 0:36:01In the UK, we each use five times that.
0:36:02 > 0:36:05When the truck arrives at its destination,
0:36:05 > 0:36:07it's met by a team of local Syrian residents
0:36:07 > 0:36:12whose job it is to allocate the water in their area.
0:36:12 > 0:36:16Here we go. No messing about - the pipe's already in.
0:36:19 > 0:36:22It's up to the local water team to know who needs water, when.
0:36:23 > 0:36:26Where is this water going? Who is this for?
0:36:29 > 0:36:32But how do you know that? What, have you memorised them all?
0:36:32 > 0:36:34What about this one, then?
0:36:38 > 0:36:41Absolutely amazing. How do you remember it?
0:36:43 > 0:36:45How long have you been doing the job?
0:36:46 > 0:36:48Two months?! Is that all?
0:36:49 > 0:36:53It's brilliant. He's got it all up here. Who needs computers?
0:36:59 > 0:37:01It's done.
0:37:01 > 0:37:0522,000 litres of water, gone like that.
0:37:08 > 0:37:13The water system may be effective, but it's financially unsustainable,
0:37:13 > 0:37:15so there's a new plan in the pipeline,
0:37:15 > 0:37:17and stage one has just been completed.
0:37:22 > 0:37:24Wow.
0:37:24 > 0:37:27Wow, that's quite some view.
0:37:27 > 0:37:28It's amazing.
0:37:28 > 0:37:30This is the highest point in Zaatari.
0:37:30 > 0:37:33I'm standing on one of three reservoirs that have been
0:37:33 > 0:37:36built to service the whole of this camp.
0:37:36 > 0:37:39It's enormous, and it has to be,
0:37:39 > 0:37:43because this will hold 1,500 cubic metres of water
0:37:43 > 0:37:46that will be coming directly from the borehole and this will
0:37:46 > 0:37:51provide 30,000 people in this area with water.
0:37:51 > 0:37:55In about a year's time, every single household in Zaatari
0:37:55 > 0:37:57will have mains-connected, running water.
0:38:07 > 0:38:10I've come back to the MSF hospital.
0:38:10 > 0:38:13I want to catch up with Mohamed and his father, Abu Abdullah,
0:38:13 > 0:38:15to find out more about how he was injured.
0:38:15 > 0:38:16How's your leg?
0:38:19 > 0:38:22The day of the injury, Mohamed, can you remember what happened?
0:38:48 > 0:38:51Abu Abdullah, were you with them in the car that day?
0:39:03 > 0:39:07To add to the physical and emotional trauma that Mohamed has suffered,
0:39:07 > 0:39:10he's now spent eight months living in hospital,
0:39:10 > 0:39:14unable to go to school and live like a normal child.
0:39:14 > 0:39:17But hopefully that could be about to change.
0:39:29 > 0:39:31Are you looking forward to making friends?
0:39:32 > 0:39:34A good student, Abu Abdullah?
0:39:39 > 0:39:41And what was your best subject?
0:39:42 > 0:39:44LAUGHTER
0:39:44 > 0:39:47I really hope you get to go to school, and will you let me
0:39:47 > 0:39:50come to school with you on your first day if you get to go?
0:39:54 > 0:39:57Mohamed will find out tomorrow whether the medical team
0:39:57 > 0:40:01feel that his leg has healed enough for him to go back to school.
0:40:08 > 0:40:12Over half of the population in the camp are under 18
0:40:12 > 0:40:15and the nine schools that cater for them split their days,
0:40:15 > 0:40:19with girls studying in the morning and boys in the afternoon.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22But not all the kids in the camp go to school.
0:40:23 > 0:40:26Ben is off to meet two of the estimated 3,000 children
0:40:26 > 0:40:28who have jobs here in Zaatari.
0:40:33 > 0:40:35- Salam.- Hello.
0:40:38 > 0:40:40Mohamed, all right, good stuff.
0:40:42 > 0:40:47Mohamed and Hafez work in a bike shop owned by Mohamed's father.
0:40:47 > 0:40:48Mohamed only works in the mornings,
0:40:48 > 0:40:51before going to school, but Hafez spends the day here.
0:41:08 > 0:41:09How old are you guys?
0:41:14 > 0:41:17You are not! You're a tiny bit younger than that, surely?
0:41:20 > 0:41:21Eh?
0:41:22 > 0:41:25LAUGHTER That's an amazing answer!
0:41:25 > 0:41:27- Yes.- You're very lucky, then.
0:41:35 > 0:41:39Most of the bikes in the camp were donated by the Netherlands.
0:41:39 > 0:41:42Just like everything else here, they're a tradable commodity
0:41:42 > 0:41:45and a good-looking bike is quite the status symbol.
0:41:48 > 0:41:53- So, guys, this looks like a pretty amazing bike to me.- Yes.- Yeah?
0:41:56 > 0:41:58We've also got a... Ha-ha!
0:41:58 > 0:42:02This is properly pimped, here, and it's got diodes on the back.
0:42:02 > 0:42:04Let's see this again. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
0:42:04 > 0:42:08You see? Look, there's a little light just under here.
0:42:08 > 0:42:11You've got one of the best-looking bikes in camp,
0:42:11 > 0:42:13but you've also got the leather jacket,
0:42:13 > 0:42:16you've got the cigarette, is that all part of the look?
0:42:19 > 0:42:21And why do you bring your bike here?
0:42:39 > 0:42:42It's midday, and the afternoon school shift is about to begin,
0:42:42 > 0:42:45so Hafez and I are walking Mohamed to class.
0:42:47 > 0:42:50So, guys, how much do you earn a month at the moment?
0:42:53 > 0:42:55That's about £50.
0:42:55 > 0:42:58And how much of that do you give back to your family?
0:43:03 > 0:43:06And what do you guys want to do when you grow up?
0:43:06 > 0:43:07What are your plans for later?
0:43:19 > 0:43:24With money tight, many children have to bring cash into the family home,
0:43:24 > 0:43:27and a third don't go to school at all.
0:43:27 > 0:43:29When was the last time that you actually went to school?
0:43:48 > 0:43:51So is it better for you and your family for you to keep working?
0:44:01 > 0:44:03Have a good day at school, yeah?
0:44:05 > 0:44:07'It isn't just Hafez's future at stake.'
0:44:09 > 0:44:12With 4,000 schools back in Syria destroyed,
0:44:12 > 0:44:15millions of Syrian children are no longer studying.
0:44:26 > 0:44:28ANITA: It's the day before the wedding.
0:44:28 > 0:44:31Moussa, the groom, is on his way to do what most Syrian men do
0:44:31 > 0:44:33just before their big day.
0:44:33 > 0:44:34THEY SING
0:44:36 > 0:44:39He's heading to the barber's to spruce himself up,
0:44:39 > 0:44:41and he's taking Javid and all his mates along.
0:44:43 > 0:44:45Yeah, it's a bit like a stag event, isn't it?
0:44:45 > 0:44:48When you watch them bundling him down the road like that.
0:44:48 > 0:44:49It's really nice.
0:44:52 > 0:44:54Moussa, what are you having done today?
0:45:10 > 0:45:13Just like a stag back in the UK,
0:45:13 > 0:45:16part of the fun is in stitching up the groom
0:45:16 > 0:45:19and over here, it's all about hitting him.
0:45:19 > 0:45:21Why are you so keen to hit him?
0:45:29 > 0:45:33But you guys who aren't married, see, you have to be careful -
0:45:33 > 0:45:36if you stitch him up too much, when it's your turn,
0:45:36 > 0:45:38he's going to get you back.
0:45:59 > 0:46:02While the boys banter, further down the Champs Elysees,
0:46:02 > 0:46:04it's time for the bride to get a dress.
0:46:05 > 0:46:07Anything that you see that you like?
0:46:07 > 0:46:09This one?
0:46:09 > 0:46:11It's a nice one. She's gone for classic white.
0:46:11 > 0:46:14I quite like the pink, myself, but it's not about me,
0:46:14 > 0:46:15it's not about me.
0:46:17 > 0:46:21Montaha is with her mother and soon-to-be mother-in-law.
0:46:24 > 0:46:26So, now you've got a new daughter.
0:46:26 > 0:46:28Well, she's very beautiful.
0:46:35 > 0:46:38The tradition in Syria is that the groom's family pay for the wedding,
0:46:38 > 0:46:41including the bride's dress.
0:46:41 > 0:46:43How much of a say are they going to have in the choice?
0:46:54 > 0:46:56Montaha will be hiring two wedding dresses -
0:46:56 > 0:46:58a classic white dress for her wedding day
0:46:58 > 0:47:02and a colourful one for her henna party, a women's-only celebration
0:47:02 > 0:47:04that happens the night before a wedding.
0:47:04 > 0:47:07Come on, come on, show us. She's nervous!
0:47:07 > 0:47:09She's so nervous, bless her!
0:47:09 > 0:47:11Come on out, my love. Come and show us.
0:47:11 > 0:47:15How do you feel? How do you feel?
0:47:15 > 0:47:17Oh, yeah, hoik it up.
0:47:17 > 0:47:19VOCALISING
0:47:22 > 0:47:24Very important question here, Montaha.
0:47:24 > 0:47:26Is there any dancing at the wedding?
0:47:26 > 0:47:27Can you move in it?
0:47:27 > 0:47:29Yeah, she's moving in it.
0:47:29 > 0:47:31LAUGHTER
0:47:32 > 0:47:35It's... You've got to be able to...
0:47:35 > 0:47:38If you can dance in the dress, we're good to go.
0:47:38 > 0:47:40Yeah? Yeah.
0:47:40 > 0:47:42Is it taking you back to your wedding day?
0:47:50 > 0:47:53What would you have met each other if you were living in Syria?
0:48:02 > 0:48:03Come on out.
0:48:06 > 0:48:07Come on out.
0:48:09 > 0:48:11I think it's gorgeous. How do you feel?
0:48:14 > 0:48:16- Is this the one, do you think?- Yes.
0:48:24 > 0:48:27Back at the barbers, Moussa is getting some serious pampering...
0:48:27 > 0:48:29before his beating begins.
0:48:32 > 0:48:36Look at the hands being warmed up here. Look at this. Uh-oh.
0:48:38 > 0:48:40Gently, gently. Do it gently, huh?
0:48:44 > 0:48:47Oh! Ow!
0:48:49 > 0:48:50Is it my turn?
0:49:00 > 0:49:02You, you!
0:49:06 > 0:49:09UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING
0:49:11 > 0:49:15The real party starts outside the groom's house...
0:49:15 > 0:49:19where Moussa will be making the most of his final night as a single man.
0:49:36 > 0:49:39It's the day of the wedding.
0:49:39 > 0:49:41But before we go, Javad is joining Mohamed,
0:49:41 > 0:49:43who's also got a big day ahead of him.
0:49:43 > 0:49:46How you doing? Good? All right, then.
0:49:49 > 0:49:53Having lived in hospital for the past eight months,
0:49:53 > 0:49:56Mohamed's finally getting back out into the wider world.
0:49:56 > 0:49:58He's going to return to school.
0:50:02 > 0:50:04He's definitely got some speed on,
0:50:04 > 0:50:06so he's definitely keen to get to school right now.
0:50:13 > 0:50:15Hurts his leg a little bit, this rough road.
0:50:15 > 0:50:18So he's just asking his dad to slow down a bit.
0:50:20 > 0:50:23Look how big the school is. Huh?
0:50:27 > 0:50:28Oy, oy, oy.
0:50:30 > 0:50:33It's really tricky. Not easy at all.
0:50:33 > 0:50:36But he is excited, he's looking around a lot.
0:50:36 > 0:50:39But the ground here is really difficult
0:50:39 > 0:50:41for a wheelchair and it's hurting his leg.
0:50:48 > 0:50:49Having missed months of school,
0:50:49 > 0:50:52Mohamed will need some help to catch up.
0:51:18 > 0:51:20THEY INTRODUCE THEMSELVES
0:51:52 > 0:51:54Did you like the look of the class, Mohamed?
0:51:55 > 0:51:57Do you think you'll make some friends there?
0:51:59 > 0:52:01HE LAUGHS
0:52:05 > 0:52:07While Javid and I get ready for the celebration,
0:52:07 > 0:52:11Ben is off to deal with some last-minute wedding practicalities.
0:52:11 > 0:52:13Weddings here are all about food,
0:52:13 > 0:52:17and I've heard that this shop is THE place to go.
0:52:20 > 0:52:24Abdul Hariri works in a family-run bakery on the Champs-Elysees.
0:52:24 > 0:52:27This looks incredible. Are you very busy at the moment?
0:52:29 > 0:52:31Do you need any help?
0:52:34 > 0:52:37What's the biggest order you've ever done?
0:52:39 > 0:52:413,000?! How much does that cost?
0:52:44 > 0:52:45That's almost £400.
0:52:51 > 0:52:55How many people would you invite to the average wedding here?
0:53:05 > 0:53:09The dough is stuffed with a spiced mince to make little pasties,
0:53:09 > 0:53:12- and then they're ready for the oven.- Very good.
0:53:17 > 0:53:20It's incredibly hot. What's the best way of doing it, then?
0:53:20 > 0:53:22Uh-huh.
0:53:22 > 0:53:24Like so? Yeah. Then straight out?
0:53:26 > 0:53:28Ah-ha-ha-ha-ha!
0:53:28 > 0:53:31- Very good.- Yeah? I can't believe that worked.
0:53:33 > 0:53:35It's very satisfying work, isn't it?
0:53:46 > 0:53:49Abdul has lost five relatives during the war.
0:53:49 > 0:53:53But this bakery helps to support 50 members of the extended family
0:53:53 > 0:53:55who are now living in the camp.
0:53:55 > 0:53:57Do you think you can taste the difference between the ones I
0:53:57 > 0:53:59made and the ones you made?
0:54:07 > 0:54:08They're incredibly light.
0:54:08 > 0:54:12They're very fluffy, lots of spice, lots of flavour. Are you happy?
0:54:21 > 0:54:22Oh!
0:54:30 > 0:54:32Finally, the big moment has arrived.
0:54:32 > 0:54:34There's no mistaking where the wedding is, is there?
0:54:34 > 0:54:37Absolutely not. Do you think they've stopped since last night?
0:54:37 > 0:54:39I don't think so.
0:54:39 > 0:54:41We've come to Moussa's house,
0:54:41 > 0:54:43where he is still celebrating with just the guys.
0:54:43 > 0:54:45LOUD MUSIC PLAYING
0:54:48 > 0:54:50The groom's still on the shoulders.
0:54:52 > 0:54:55A massive two-day-long celebration,
0:54:55 > 0:54:58a wedding in the camp is one of the few times that people here
0:54:58 > 0:55:00can really let themselves go.
0:55:02 > 0:55:05Of course, there's no alcohol, but there is plenty of spray foam.
0:55:05 > 0:55:08SINGING AND CLAPPING
0:55:08 > 0:55:11- Ohh-ah! - HE LAUGHS
0:55:11 > 0:55:13What a way to have a wedding.
0:55:14 > 0:55:17First, the bride and groom will celebrate separately
0:55:17 > 0:55:18during the wedding -
0:55:18 > 0:55:22until the key moment when Moussa goes to collect his bride
0:55:22 > 0:55:24and they officially become husband and wife.
0:55:24 > 0:55:26As long as he doesn't forget!
0:55:36 > 0:55:39Is this the time? Are you going to get your bride?
0:55:39 > 0:55:40Really? How are you feeling?
0:55:42 > 0:55:43Yeah?
0:55:43 > 0:55:45It's basically like an Indian wedding -
0:55:45 > 0:55:47no-one knows what the heck is going on.
0:55:47 > 0:55:48Mous... Oh, he's off!
0:55:48 > 0:55:49CHANTING
0:55:49 > 0:55:51He's travelling in style.
0:55:52 > 0:55:55It's a short walk to the bride's house,
0:55:55 > 0:55:57and Moussa's mates seem to be in charge of the chanting.
0:55:57 > 0:55:59CHANTING AND SINGING
0:56:08 > 0:56:11Moussa heads into Montaha's house to collect her...
0:56:11 > 0:56:13SHE VOCALISES
0:56:13 > 0:56:15..and then take her back to his house.
0:56:15 > 0:56:18CHEERING
0:56:18 > 0:56:21CHANTING AND SINGING
0:56:26 > 0:56:30Moussa's two little cousins, who are dressed like mini brides.
0:56:30 > 0:56:33It's amazing, they look like Disney characters.
0:56:35 > 0:56:38As Moussa ushers Montaha into their new home...
0:56:40 > 0:56:42..they're officially married.
0:56:42 > 0:56:46I don't know who's covered in more of this stuff - the bride or me.
0:56:46 > 0:56:48I think everyone's got the same idea -
0:56:48 > 0:56:51they want to come in and congratulate the newlyweds.
0:56:51 > 0:56:53Amazing.
0:56:53 > 0:56:56She's here. Montaha!
0:56:56 > 0:56:58Congratulations.
0:56:59 > 0:57:03How many hours were you doing hair and make-up?
0:57:03 > 0:57:05Three hours in hair and make-up.
0:57:05 > 0:57:09I just want to wish you all the happiness for the rest of your life.
0:57:09 > 0:57:11There is so much happiness in this room.
0:57:11 > 0:57:14The marriage is done, Samir's got a daughter-in-law.
0:57:14 > 0:57:15She is overwhelmed.
0:57:15 > 0:57:17SHE VOCALISES
0:57:17 > 0:57:18ALL VOCALISING
0:57:21 > 0:57:25Although life here is far from perfect, and everyone would rather
0:57:25 > 0:57:29be in Syria, that hasn't stopped people making the most of it.
0:57:30 > 0:57:31This is what it's about.
0:57:31 > 0:57:34Their tradition, their culture, it's just continuing because
0:57:34 > 0:57:37that's what you all do, even in a refugee camp.
0:57:37 > 0:57:40You can still bring joy to two families.
0:57:41 > 0:57:45What better way of doing that than having a wedding? That was amazing.
0:57:48 > 0:57:50Next time...
0:57:50 > 0:57:53With no sign Zaatari's going anywhere any time soon,
0:57:53 > 0:57:55this place is looking to the future.
0:57:59 > 0:58:00You bought the suitcases.
0:58:00 > 0:58:04Javid will be meeting the families making life-changing decisions.
0:58:06 > 0:58:09Ben will be seeing what life's like for kids growing up here.
0:58:09 > 0:58:11This is amazing.
0:58:13 > 0:58:16And I'll be meeting the next generation born into this
0:58:16 > 0:58:18challenging environment.
0:58:18 > 0:58:21Gosh, it's just goes to show that, even in the most difficult
0:58:21 > 0:58:26circumstances - I'm shaking - people don't just get on with life -
0:58:26 > 0:58:27life can thrive.