Kazakhstan

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0:00:04 > 0:00:07What do all these very average-looking men have in common?

0:00:07 > 0:00:10That's right - they're all dictators.

0:00:10 > 0:00:12And that means they love power,

0:00:12 > 0:00:14they hate journalists like me

0:00:14 > 0:00:17and they are, quite frankly, ridiculous.

0:00:17 > 0:00:21I'm on a journey to three former Soviet Union countries

0:00:21 > 0:00:25to find out what makes some of the world's most powerful tyrants tick,

0:00:25 > 0:00:27and to see the good,

0:00:27 > 0:00:32the bad, and the completely mental about living under a dictatorship.

0:00:34 > 0:00:42This programme contains some scenes which some viewers may find upsetting.

0:00:43 > 0:00:48This time, Kazakhstan - a massive country in Central Asia.

0:00:48 > 0:00:50I was starting my journey in icy Astana.

0:00:51 > 0:00:53Just arrived, it's seven o'clock in the morning,

0:00:53 > 0:00:56and it's about ten times colder than I imagined.

0:00:56 > 0:00:57It's minus 16 degrees.

0:00:57 > 0:00:58Everything around me is frozen,

0:00:58 > 0:01:01including my nose, which is quite an achievement,

0:01:01 > 0:01:02cos I have quite a large nose.

0:01:02 > 0:01:04Getting into these countries is hard,

0:01:04 > 0:01:08so we told the authorities we were making a travel programme,

0:01:08 > 0:01:09and none of the interviewees would know

0:01:09 > 0:01:12it was actually a series about dictatorships,

0:01:12 > 0:01:14for their safety and mine.

0:01:14 > 0:01:15APPLAUSE

0:01:15 > 0:01:20Nursultan Nazarbayev has been president of Kazakhstan since 1991.

0:01:20 > 0:01:24The funny thing about him is that almost everyone seems to like him,

0:01:24 > 0:01:28from the Queen to President Obama to Vladimir Putin of Russia.

0:01:29 > 0:01:30Tony Blair even worked for him.

0:01:31 > 0:01:34And as far as dictators go, he does look kind of cute.

0:01:37 > 0:01:41And yet his government doesn't seem to mind killing people too much.

0:01:41 > 0:01:44So how does he manage to be a popular dictator?

0:01:45 > 0:01:48I've come to Kazakhstan's capital city to find out.

0:01:49 > 0:01:52So I've actually been to Kazakhstan quite a few times,

0:01:52 > 0:01:54but I've never been to Astana.

0:01:54 > 0:01:57It was created about 20 years ago by the president himself.

0:01:57 > 0:02:00He decided he wanted a new capital so he just created this place.

0:02:00 > 0:02:02So, to see more of it, I'm going to take a tour bus -

0:02:02 > 0:02:04probably the world's coldest one.

0:02:04 > 0:02:08In 1997 Nazarbayev, or Naz to his mates,

0:02:08 > 0:02:10decided he wanted a glitzy capital -

0:02:10 > 0:02:12one that would fit his status

0:02:12 > 0:02:16as leader of the world's ninth biggest country.

0:02:34 > 0:02:37Before Naz built the city here, there was nothing,

0:02:37 > 0:02:39just empty Kazakh grasslands.

0:02:39 > 0:02:42Some impressive architecture, that's for sure.

0:02:42 > 0:02:43What's this?

0:02:45 > 0:02:48I feel a bit like I'm in the year 3000, being in Astana.

0:02:48 > 0:02:51Why are the buildings so crazy, like this one?

0:02:59 > 0:03:02Kazakhstan has masses of oil and gas.

0:03:02 > 0:03:05It's helped to pay for this place and also explains why Nazarbayev

0:03:05 > 0:03:07is so popular.

0:03:07 > 0:03:09If the people are reasonably well off,

0:03:09 > 0:03:11they're much less likely to hate you.

0:03:26 > 0:03:29So the president and his policies are, in effect, an aphrodisiac?

0:03:35 > 0:03:37You heard it here first.

0:03:37 > 0:03:39If you're hoping to get lucky in the bedroom,

0:03:39 > 0:03:42ditch the oysters and strawberries and go for a little bit of Naz.

0:03:44 > 0:03:46To continue my tour of the city,

0:03:46 > 0:03:50I was heading up Kazakhstan's most iconic building, the Bayterek Tower.

0:03:52 > 0:03:53Wow, this is massive, this place.

0:03:53 > 0:03:55I am excited.

0:03:56 > 0:03:59- Nice to meet you. I'm Ben. - Nice to meet you, welcome.

0:03:59 > 0:04:01The height is 97 metres.

0:04:01 > 0:04:04It symbolises the year 1997

0:04:04 > 0:04:06when Astana became the new capital of Kazakhstan.

0:04:08 > 0:04:11Yes, we have the hand print of our president.

0:04:13 > 0:04:16People put their hands into his hands, symbolically.

0:04:16 > 0:04:18What do I achieve if I do this?

0:04:18 > 0:04:19It's good luck.

0:04:19 > 0:04:23You look to the President's Palace, you say hello to the president.

0:04:23 > 0:04:25So it's kind of like high-fiving the president.

0:04:25 > 0:04:27Yeah.

0:04:27 > 0:04:29- Has he literally touched this himself?- Mm-hm.

0:04:29 > 0:04:31He was coming here.

0:04:31 > 0:04:32So it's quite a privilege.

0:04:32 > 0:04:35You make a wish and it will come true.

0:04:35 > 0:04:36All right.

0:04:38 > 0:04:40TRIUMPHANT MUSIC PLAYS

0:04:42 > 0:04:44Wow!

0:04:44 > 0:04:46That's incredible.

0:04:46 > 0:04:48No way!

0:04:48 > 0:04:50What is going on?

0:04:52 > 0:04:53Wow! MUSIC CONTINUES

0:04:53 > 0:04:55Oh, it doesn't stop. It won't stop.

0:04:58 > 0:04:59Wow.

0:04:59 > 0:05:00That was impressive.

0:05:00 > 0:05:02I feel like...

0:05:02 > 0:05:05I made a wish that I could one day also be the president of Kazakhstan.

0:05:10 > 0:05:12I needed to be careful what I said.

0:05:12 > 0:05:15I'd suddenly noticed someone keeping an eye on me.

0:05:17 > 0:05:21OK, so I'm pointing out the window right now to make sure that the guy

0:05:21 > 0:05:24behind me with the blue suit doesn't think I'm talking about him.

0:05:24 > 0:05:27He's a government minder and he's just shown up

0:05:27 > 0:05:29out of the blue, to basically check on what were doing.

0:05:29 > 0:05:30He hasn't stopped us yet,

0:05:30 > 0:05:33but that's cos we're not doing anything too controversial, yet.

0:05:33 > 0:05:35But it is a bit unsettling.

0:05:37 > 0:05:41I had to be careful, as Nazarbayev has made it illegal to criticise him

0:05:41 > 0:05:43under threat of five years in jail.

0:05:43 > 0:05:45One of the biggest criticisms has been

0:05:45 > 0:05:48the extent to which he's enriched himself at Kazakhstan's expense.

0:05:49 > 0:05:50A few years ago,

0:05:50 > 0:05:53when a newspaper claimed he'd stolen the country's oil money,

0:05:53 > 0:05:57journalists found a decapitated dog outside their offices,

0:05:57 > 0:06:00with a warning that this was their last chance.

0:06:00 > 0:06:03All right. So I'm getting on an overnight train to Almaty,

0:06:03 > 0:06:05which is the biggest city in Kazakhstan.

0:06:05 > 0:06:08It used to be the capital before Astana.

0:06:08 > 0:06:11It's about ten hours away.

0:06:11 > 0:06:14I'm going to see how the real people live,

0:06:14 > 0:06:16if I can get there.

0:06:16 > 0:06:18Spasibo.

0:06:20 > 0:06:23This is the world's longest train, this.

0:06:23 > 0:06:25Looks pretty nice, to be honest.

0:06:25 > 0:06:27Oh, they check your passport as you go in.

0:06:27 > 0:06:28- OK, hello.- Good evening.

0:06:28 > 0:06:30Hello. You have very nice eyes.

0:06:33 > 0:06:35- So I have to go left?- Yes, yes. - All right, thank you very much.

0:06:40 > 0:06:41And we're off.

0:06:49 > 0:06:5211 hours and a rough sleep later and I arrived.

0:06:53 > 0:06:54Let's see Almaty.

0:06:54 > 0:06:56No, thank you, my friend.

0:06:56 > 0:06:57I'm walking.

0:06:58 > 0:07:00With a population of almost two million,

0:07:00 > 0:07:03Almaty is far and away Kazakhstan's biggest city.

0:07:04 > 0:07:07I wanted to see if I could find some signs of opposition

0:07:07 > 0:07:08to Nazarbayev's rule.

0:07:11 > 0:07:14I knew it existed, thanks to an incident five years ago

0:07:14 > 0:07:17in Zhanaozen, in the far west of the country.

0:07:20 > 0:07:23State oil workers had spent months striking for better pay.

0:07:26 > 0:07:28Tensions rose on Independence Day,

0:07:28 > 0:07:31and culminated in 16 workers being gunned down

0:07:31 > 0:07:33and killed by the police.

0:07:46 > 0:07:47Dozens more were injured.

0:07:55 > 0:07:59I was in Almaty for the 25th anniversary of independence,

0:07:59 > 0:08:02which was also the fifth anniversary of the Zhanaozen massacre.

0:08:04 > 0:08:06I'm told Independence Day is a pretty big day here,

0:08:06 > 0:08:09but it's also a day that quite a lot of dissent happens.

0:08:09 > 0:08:12It's one of the rare moments that people actually take to the streets

0:08:12 > 0:08:14to protest the government, and good old Naz himself.

0:08:14 > 0:08:16So I was hoping to stick around and see some of it.

0:08:16 > 0:08:18But it turns out the local authorities have found out

0:08:18 > 0:08:21we are in town, and they have very different plans.

0:08:21 > 0:08:22They're literally forcing me out of here.

0:08:22 > 0:08:25They've booked me a minibus to go on a really random trip -

0:08:25 > 0:08:28to a ski resort, to see the mountains,

0:08:28 > 0:08:30which I don't necessarily want to do but I really have no choice

0:08:30 > 0:08:32in the matter whatsoever.

0:08:32 > 0:08:34The bus was waiting for me,

0:08:34 > 0:08:36ready to escort me to the mountains.

0:08:37 > 0:08:39How long is the trip?

0:08:39 > 0:08:41- 30, 40 minutes.- 30, 40... OK, that's not too bad.

0:08:41 > 0:08:43Take a little cheeky nap.

0:08:43 > 0:08:45My abduction had begun.

0:08:45 > 0:08:48First stop was an ice rink called Medeu.

0:08:48 > 0:08:50Someone from the Almaty mayor's office had turned up

0:08:50 > 0:08:53to tell me just how great it was.

0:08:53 > 0:08:56So I will just name a few facts about Medeu.

0:08:56 > 0:08:59- You know, like, interesting facts. - Go for it. Hit me with the facts.

0:08:59 > 0:09:03OK. So Medeu is the world's highest ice-skating rink.

0:09:03 > 0:09:07Each year around 350,000 people come to skate in Medeu.

0:09:07 > 0:09:10And Medeu has the world's fastest ice.

0:09:10 > 0:09:12This was a new form of dictator torture -

0:09:12 > 0:09:14death by a thousand facts.

0:09:15 > 0:09:18So now we are about to experience

0:09:18 > 0:09:22the longest distance between two stands

0:09:22 > 0:09:24- for a cable car.- Really?

0:09:24 > 0:09:26We headed further up the mountain,

0:09:26 > 0:09:28and further away from the protest and dissent

0:09:28 > 0:09:30I'd been hoping to see in Almaty.

0:09:30 > 0:09:33So, yeah, the day of randomness continues.

0:09:33 > 0:09:35I'm now heading up to the top of the mountain.

0:09:35 > 0:09:40In the cable car behind me is a big group of Almaty's finest,

0:09:40 > 0:09:41most successful youngsters,

0:09:41 > 0:09:43who've also been forced to spend a day here

0:09:43 > 0:09:45to try and sell the idea of Kazakhstan to me.

0:09:48 > 0:09:50How did you end up with us today?

0:09:50 > 0:09:54When people asked me I said, of course, yes,

0:09:54 > 0:09:57I want to share my gratitude to the country.

0:09:57 > 0:09:59How would you sell Kazakhstan to me?

0:09:59 > 0:10:04We are in the middle of Central Asia, with beautiful landscape.

0:10:04 > 0:10:06I'm the only person up here who's not got skis,

0:10:06 > 0:10:08which adds to the pointlessness of it all.

0:10:08 > 0:10:12We are really lucky that we have such a president.

0:10:16 > 0:10:19It's easy to be sceptical about all the Naz-love,

0:10:19 > 0:10:21but at the last election

0:10:21 > 0:10:24the president got a whopping 97.7% of the vote.

0:10:24 > 0:10:27That might seem like a bit of dictator vote-rigging,

0:10:27 > 0:10:30but independent polling's confirmed his overwhelming support,

0:10:30 > 0:10:32thanks, partly, to his repression of the opposition

0:10:32 > 0:10:34and control of the media.

0:10:35 > 0:10:38So, while I've been stuck here all day with these guys,

0:10:38 > 0:10:41exactly what I thought was going to happen has happened,

0:10:41 > 0:10:44and that's that there was a reasonably big military parade

0:10:44 > 0:10:46that's happened in the centre of Almaty,

0:10:46 > 0:10:48because it's the 25th year of independence.

0:10:48 > 0:10:51And there's reports online of dissidents having police cars

0:10:51 > 0:10:52parked outside of their houses

0:10:52 > 0:10:54to make sure they don't cause any trouble.

0:10:54 > 0:10:56We were experiencing more interference

0:10:56 > 0:10:59from the authorities in Kazakhstan than I'd expected.

0:10:59 > 0:11:02But, despite their best efforts to keep an eye on me,

0:11:02 > 0:11:05back in Almaty I managed to sneak off.

0:11:05 > 0:11:07I'm on my way right now to a dissidents' meeting.

0:11:07 > 0:11:10We're being told that it's probably being watched by the secret service.

0:11:10 > 0:11:11Could even be bugged.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19It's the world's smallest room but it seems pretty busy.

0:11:20 > 0:11:24The meeting was being held to raise awareness about two dissidents

0:11:24 > 0:11:27who were recently sent to jail for five years for organising protests.

0:11:39 > 0:11:42But in amongst the dissidents were a couple of people

0:11:42 > 0:11:44who seemed out of place.

0:11:44 > 0:11:46These two guys, down the end of the corridor,

0:11:46 > 0:11:48I'm pretty sure are members of the secret service.

0:11:48 > 0:11:51Once we walked near to them they just walked away,

0:11:51 > 0:11:52walked down the corridor.

0:11:52 > 0:11:55And they were making a lot of phone calls and taking a lot of pictures.

0:12:10 > 0:12:12So there clearly is an opposition movement here.

0:12:12 > 0:12:14One of the main guys who organised that has agreed to meet me now,

0:12:14 > 0:12:17to tell me a bit more about life in Kazakhstan

0:12:17 > 0:12:19when you're not so pro-Nazarbayev.

0:12:22 > 0:12:23- Hey, nice to meet you.- Hello.

0:12:23 > 0:12:26- Nice to meet you too. - I'm Ben.- Zhanbolat.

0:12:26 > 0:12:29Zhanbolat Mamay runs one of the few remaining independent newspapers

0:12:29 > 0:12:30in Kazakhstan.

0:12:31 > 0:12:35He's been sued three times by pro-government organisations

0:12:35 > 0:12:39in an effort to shut down his paper, and he's also spent time in prison.

0:12:39 > 0:12:41Despite the government's efforts to silence him,

0:12:41 > 0:12:44he'd agreed to talk openly with me.

0:12:44 > 0:12:46At your event today I was pretty certain

0:12:46 > 0:12:49that I saw two guys from the secret service.

0:12:49 > 0:12:51Is that something that you're used to now?

0:12:51 > 0:12:53- Is that a kind of daily part your life?- Yes, of course.

0:12:53 > 0:12:56Every political activist in Kazakhstan is living under threat,

0:12:56 > 0:12:59because you do not know when you will be jailed,

0:12:59 > 0:13:04because you do not know when you will be convicted of some crime

0:13:04 > 0:13:06that you didn't commit.

0:13:06 > 0:13:09Give me a sense of the kind of personal freedom

0:13:09 > 0:13:10you have here to protest.

0:13:10 > 0:13:13If I was to go outside the Presidential Palace

0:13:13 > 0:13:16with a sign saying "Down with Nazarbayev"...

0:13:16 > 0:13:19You will be jailed for maybe three or four years, I think.

0:13:19 > 0:13:23Why do you think they don't just kill you to shut you up?

0:13:23 > 0:13:25They can kill.

0:13:25 > 0:13:29The regime can kill everybody if they think that the person

0:13:29 > 0:13:32is dangerous for their safety.

0:13:32 > 0:13:35For example, two prominent politicians were killed

0:13:35 > 0:13:38and some prominent journalists were killed.

0:13:38 > 0:13:41The regime denies involvement in the killings,

0:13:41 > 0:13:42but they can't deny the fact

0:13:42 > 0:13:47that five years ago the striking oil workers were shot in Zhanaozen.

0:13:47 > 0:13:50I'd heard the city was no longer very keen on Nazarbayev.

0:13:51 > 0:13:54So would you say then that Zhanaozen is a good place to go

0:13:54 > 0:13:56to get a sense of this anti-establishment,

0:13:56 > 0:13:58anti-Nazarbayev feeling?

0:13:58 > 0:13:59Yes. Yes, I think so.

0:13:59 > 0:14:03There is a strong anti-establishment mood there, in this city.

0:14:03 > 0:14:07But you must be ready that you will be,

0:14:07 > 0:14:10that there will be secret service agents that will go after you.

0:14:10 > 0:14:13- Really?- But it is very important, I think, to visit this city.

0:14:13 > 0:14:14It is very important.

0:14:14 > 0:14:16Seems like a good place to go next, then.

0:14:16 > 0:14:19- Yes.- Thanks for talking to me.- Thank you very much.- I appreciate it.

0:14:22 > 0:14:24Zhanaozen is in the far west of the country,

0:14:24 > 0:14:29near the Caspian Sea, almost 2,000 miles away from Almaty and Astana.

0:14:30 > 0:14:31I was travelling with Asel,

0:14:31 > 0:14:35a lawyer representing some of the families seeking justice

0:14:35 > 0:14:37and compensation for the massacre.

0:14:37 > 0:14:40So am I right in thinking that this is probably the last place

0:14:40 > 0:14:42in the country that the government want me to go?

0:15:02 > 0:15:05You've increased my nervousness levels by about 1,000,000%.

0:15:08 > 0:15:11In Zhanaozen we headed for the central square,

0:15:11 > 0:15:13where the strikers were based five years ago,

0:15:13 > 0:15:16before their protest turned into a massacre.

0:15:17 > 0:15:19Can't even imagine protesting in this, day in, day out.

0:15:19 > 0:15:22It's absolutely freezing cold.

0:15:22 > 0:15:25Asel had found a couple of young men from me talk to,

0:15:25 > 0:15:28who were in Zhanaozen on the day of the massacre.

0:15:28 > 0:15:30One of them was shot when he says he turned up at the square

0:15:30 > 0:15:31to see what was happening.

0:16:03 > 0:16:06What about yourself? What happened to you on that day?

0:16:21 > 0:16:24You were actually arrested and, what, sent to jail,

0:16:24 > 0:16:27even though you weren't even near here?

0:16:56 > 0:16:59You actually served time in jail for this?

0:17:03 > 0:17:07There are allegations that dozens of young men were rounded up

0:17:07 > 0:17:09and tortured in the days after the massacre,

0:17:09 > 0:17:11as the government tried to root out troublemakers.

0:17:15 > 0:17:18Nazarbayev fired some people he held responsible,

0:17:18 > 0:17:21but no police have ever been charged for the killings.

0:17:21 > 0:17:23And, five years after the massacre,

0:17:23 > 0:17:25the town is still under heavy surveillance.

0:17:30 > 0:17:34So a police car has just arrived with a big van full of soldiers.

0:17:34 > 0:17:38These guys supposedly come here to this day to monitor the city,

0:17:38 > 0:17:40to make sure that nothing is happening.

0:17:40 > 0:17:43It shows you just how sensitive it still is, five years on.

0:17:45 > 0:17:46And also a little bit scary,

0:17:46 > 0:17:48cos they definitely don't want us to be here,

0:17:48 > 0:17:49as I've already said, so...

0:17:49 > 0:17:52have to make sure that we don't get caught.

0:17:52 > 0:17:54The police had pulled up just behind our van,

0:17:54 > 0:17:56so we had to walk directly towards them.

0:17:58 > 0:18:00Freaking Kazakhstan, always making us nervous.

0:18:02 > 0:18:04Oh, my God, they've got police dogs.

0:18:04 > 0:18:07This was a bad choice.

0:18:07 > 0:18:09They're definitely going to see us.

0:18:09 > 0:18:10There you go.

0:18:10 > 0:18:13Let's go, Olly. Get in, get in, get in, get in...

0:18:15 > 0:18:17We headed back to our hotel.

0:18:17 > 0:18:18But we'd been spotted.

0:18:20 > 0:18:25So, we finished filming about an hour ago.

0:18:25 > 0:18:27I'm currently in the hotel room,

0:18:27 > 0:18:30just jumped out of the shower and got this message from Maria,

0:18:30 > 0:18:33the producer - probably the most terrifying message

0:18:33 > 0:18:35I've received in a long time, saying

0:18:35 > 0:18:39"Olly and Ben, go to your room and stay there.

0:18:39 > 0:18:41"The police are here looking for foreigners."

0:18:41 > 0:18:43Which can only be us.

0:18:43 > 0:18:46And it just shows you how serious this is.

0:18:46 > 0:18:48I can't... I don't know what they'll do if they'll find us,

0:18:48 > 0:18:50and I can't believe that they're here.

0:18:50 > 0:18:53But we're now all cowering in the hotel room.

0:18:53 > 0:18:55The night is most definitely ruined.

0:18:56 > 0:18:58Hopefully nothing else comes from it.

0:18:58 > 0:19:00But we are trapped.

0:19:06 > 0:19:09After a sleepless night, we left town early,

0:19:09 > 0:19:11before the police came back for us.

0:19:11 > 0:19:13Yeah, let's hope for the best.

0:19:15 > 0:19:18So it seems like we have, hopefully, made it out now.

0:19:18 > 0:19:20But I honestly can't believe that five years on...

0:19:21 > 0:19:25..we'd still get that much attention from the police, just doing a story.

0:19:25 > 0:19:26You do this all the time.

0:19:26 > 0:19:30I mean, you must have had that on a whole different scale.

0:19:51 > 0:19:54When you say that they were getting into your private life,

0:19:54 > 0:19:55what were they actually doing?

0:20:14 > 0:20:18They actually hired somebody just to start a relationship with you...

0:20:19 > 0:20:21..just to get a video to put online?

0:20:31 > 0:20:34I couldn't imagine living in a country where your own government

0:20:34 > 0:20:36would film you having sex and then put it online

0:20:36 > 0:20:37in order to silence you.

0:20:39 > 0:20:41We're now on our way to the airport,

0:20:41 > 0:20:43which we're all extremely happy about.

0:20:43 > 0:20:45This has been my third trip to Kazakhstan.

0:20:45 > 0:20:47The first two times were honestly quite nice.

0:20:47 > 0:20:49It's a very beautiful country.

0:20:49 > 0:20:51It's full of very nice people.

0:20:51 > 0:20:54This time, though, it's been a very different experience.

0:20:54 > 0:20:56It's clear that there's a line here

0:20:56 > 0:20:57that if you stay on the right side of

0:20:57 > 0:20:59you can have a very nice life.

0:20:59 > 0:21:00But if you cross it,

0:21:00 > 0:21:03the lengths that the government are prepared to go

0:21:03 > 0:21:05to shut you up are quite terrifying.

0:21:05 > 0:21:08And the fact that there's only one man in charge here and, basically,

0:21:08 > 0:21:12no opposition whatsoever means that if you do find yourself in trouble,

0:21:12 > 0:21:13you are on your own.