The Midday Sun

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0:00:04 > 0:00:07Specially chosen programmes from the BBC archive.

0:00:07 > 0:00:09For this Collection, Sir David Attenborough

0:00:09 > 0:00:13has chosen documentaries from the start of his career.

0:00:13 > 0:00:15More programmes on this theme and other BBC Four Collections

0:00:15 > 0:00:18are available on BBC iPlayer.

0:00:28 > 0:00:33Bali is a small island, 100 miles long and 70 miles wide.

0:00:33 > 0:00:36On the map, it looks no more than a tiny bead

0:00:36 > 0:00:38on the necklace of islands

0:00:38 > 0:00:41that stretches from west of Malaysia to New Guinea and Australia.

0:00:47 > 0:00:51It is certainly one of the most beautiful islands in the world.

0:00:51 > 0:00:53Like every other part of Southeast Asia,

0:00:53 > 0:00:56it has rice fields, palm trees and tropical flowers,

0:00:56 > 0:01:00but somehow in Bali, these things fit together so perfectly

0:01:00 > 0:01:02that you feel, when you come here,

0:01:02 > 0:01:05that you have arrived in an enchanted garden.

0:01:18 > 0:01:21But there is one particular characteristic of Bali

0:01:21 > 0:01:24which makes it one of the most remarkable places on Earth.

0:01:48 > 0:01:51Bali is unique because of its people.

0:01:51 > 0:01:54They are, above all, a peasant people

0:01:54 > 0:01:56and, in this warm, welcoming climate

0:01:56 > 0:01:59they live as close to nature as man can anywhere.

0:01:59 > 0:02:04But they are also a people intoxicated by the arts.

0:02:04 > 0:02:06Part of the reason for their passionate involvement

0:02:06 > 0:02:08lies in their history.

0:02:08 > 0:02:13500 years ago, most of what is now Indonesia was Hindu,

0:02:13 > 0:02:14ruled by princes

0:02:14 > 0:02:17whose courts were among the most cultured in the whole of the Orient,

0:02:17 > 0:02:21famous for the dazzling skill of their musicians and artists.

0:02:21 > 0:02:23In the 16th century, however,

0:02:23 > 0:02:26the faith of Islam arrived in Java.

0:02:26 > 0:02:31Most of the Hindu princes fled before it, travelling eastwards down Java

0:02:31 > 0:02:35and, eventually, across a narrow arm of sea and into Bali.

0:02:35 > 0:02:38With them travelled their entire courts,

0:02:38 > 0:02:44and so Bali became a sanctuary for the flower of Hindu Javanese culture,

0:02:44 > 0:02:47and here, it has flourished ever since.

0:02:47 > 0:02:48Indeed, these people,

0:02:48 > 0:02:52who spend their days in backbreaking work in the rice fields,

0:02:52 > 0:02:56regard the arts almost as necessary to a proper and decent life

0:02:56 > 0:02:58as the very grain they cultivate.

0:02:58 > 0:03:01They know that the really worthwhile thing to be

0:03:01 > 0:03:05is either a painter, a sculptor, a dancer

0:03:05 > 0:03:08or, perhaps, above all, a musician.

0:03:10 > 0:03:14Bali's music has only rarely been heard in the West,

0:03:14 > 0:03:16but when it has, it has created a sensation.

0:03:16 > 0:03:21Debussy heard something of it at the 1889 Paris Exhibition

0:03:21 > 0:03:22and was overwhelmed.

0:03:22 > 0:03:26Bartok, de Falla and, most recently, Benjamin Britten,

0:03:26 > 0:03:29have all been captivated by its richness of tone

0:03:29 > 0:03:31and intricacy of melody.

0:03:31 > 0:03:34To hear the best music you must go into the villages,

0:03:34 > 0:03:36and one of the greatest orchestras in Bali

0:03:36 > 0:03:41is centred on this household in the small village of Peliatan.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44Its guiding spirit has been, for nearly 50 years,

0:03:44 > 0:03:47the old nobleman who is the patriarch of the household,

0:03:47 > 0:03:50Anak Agung Gde Mandera.

0:03:51 > 0:03:56He no longer plays, but has handed over to his son, Agung Bawa,

0:03:56 > 0:03:58and another young man, Gandera,

0:03:58 > 0:04:01who is now the orchestra's main composer.

0:04:01 > 0:04:04The Anak Agung, as a young man in 1929,

0:04:04 > 0:04:08went with his orchestra and dancers to Paris.

0:04:08 > 0:04:10The visit was a triumph,

0:04:10 > 0:04:14and then, in 1952, his orchestra was taken on a world tour.

0:04:14 > 0:04:16This was an even greater success

0:04:16 > 0:04:18and mementos of it hang round his room.

0:04:18 > 0:04:21In America, their impresario was so delighted

0:04:21 > 0:04:24that he presented them with a commemorative plaque.

0:04:24 > 0:04:28In Brussels, they were given a full diplomatic reception.

0:04:30 > 0:04:32In Paris, the little girl dancers

0:04:32 > 0:04:35were rapturously received by the ballet-loving public

0:04:35 > 0:04:39and ecstatically praised by Serge Lifar.

0:04:39 > 0:04:41In New York, the Anak Agung discussed drumming

0:04:41 > 0:04:44with the timpanist of the New York Philharmonic

0:04:44 > 0:04:47and found his technique mystifyingly simple,

0:04:47 > 0:04:49but was too polite to say so.

0:04:49 > 0:04:52In spite of the fact that he's been entertained in palaces

0:04:52 > 0:04:55and luxury hotels in all the great cities of the West,

0:04:55 > 0:04:58the Anak Agung still runs his household

0:04:58 > 0:05:01in the purest traditions of the Balinese nobility.

0:05:01 > 0:05:06His daughter-in-law weaves silk cloth for sarongs.

0:05:06 > 0:05:10The instruments of the famous orchestra, shrouded in covers,

0:05:10 > 0:05:12stand in their special rehearsal veranda.

0:05:18 > 0:05:21The wall facing the main gateway into the compound

0:05:21 > 0:05:24is emblazoned with a great carving of the Garuda bird,

0:05:24 > 0:05:27a device recommended by Balinese tradition

0:05:27 > 0:05:30as a way of preventing demons from entering.

0:05:30 > 0:05:32The men of the household,

0:05:32 > 0:05:34like every man in Bali, nobleman or commoner,

0:05:34 > 0:05:36rear fighting cocks,

0:05:36 > 0:05:40and they must be exercised, massaged and cosseted daily.

0:05:40 > 0:05:44From a citrus tree, famous for the marvellous sweetness of its fruit,

0:05:44 > 0:05:45hangs a cockatoo,

0:05:45 > 0:05:50and beyond, the Anak Agung's aged mother pounds betel nut

0:05:50 > 0:05:53and, typically, does so not just anyhow,

0:05:53 > 0:05:57but with a particular rhythm echoing a particular melody in her head.

0:06:02 > 0:06:07And off the main courtyard, in a separate enclosure, the house temple,

0:06:07 > 0:06:08where stand the shrines

0:06:08 > 0:06:12which mark the great events in the life of the household,

0:06:12 > 0:06:14including one erected to give thanks

0:06:14 > 0:06:17for the orchestra's safe return from their world tour.

0:06:19 > 0:06:23Gandera gives rehearsals to each instrumentalist separately.

0:06:23 > 0:06:26He knows, and can play, the part of every instrument

0:06:26 > 0:06:29in even the most complex orchestral piece.

0:06:29 > 0:06:33Indeed, since there is no musical notation and no written scores,

0:06:33 > 0:06:36this is the only way of teaching a composition.

0:06:41 > 0:06:43HE SINGS NOTES

0:06:50 > 0:06:52What is more,

0:06:52 > 0:06:54because he's sitting on the opposite side of the instrument,

0:06:54 > 0:06:57he has to be able to play it, literally, backwards.

0:07:12 > 0:07:14HE SINGS

0:07:14 > 0:07:17THEY SING

0:07:29 > 0:07:31HE SINGS

0:07:48 > 0:07:50And when his pupil really knows the passage,

0:07:50 > 0:07:53then Gandera will play the counterpoint

0:07:53 > 0:07:55on the same instrument, backwards.

0:07:58 > 0:08:01This instrument is the gangsa.

0:08:01 > 0:08:04It plays the same role in the Balinese orchestra as violins do

0:08:04 > 0:08:06in a European orchestra.

0:08:06 > 0:08:09Each bronze key has to be damped with the left hand

0:08:09 > 0:08:11after it's been struck.

0:08:23 > 0:08:28A complete orchestra, or gamelan, may contain as many as 30 instruments.

0:08:28 > 0:08:32It is, in fact, the biggest musical ensemble anywhere in the world,

0:08:32 > 0:08:34apart from a full-scale Western symphony orchestra,

0:08:34 > 0:08:37and Gandera leads it from the drum.

0:08:37 > 0:08:40The chief gangsa player, who shares the leadership of the gamelan,

0:08:40 > 0:08:43is Gandera's father, Made Lebah.

0:09:10 > 0:09:11This is the reong,

0:09:11 > 0:09:15the hardest instrument of all to play with evenness and precision,

0:09:15 > 0:09:16for eight hands must play as one.

0:10:12 > 0:10:15In an orchestra of this size, with 30-odd instruments,

0:10:15 > 0:10:18sometimes playing interlocking parts of the same melody,

0:10:18 > 0:10:20there can be no room for improvisation.

0:10:20 > 0:10:22They must all play with the utmost precision,

0:10:22 > 0:10:26and that can only be obtained by dedicated rehearsals,

0:10:26 > 0:10:28four or five evenings a week.

0:10:29 > 0:10:32HE SPEAKS

0:10:32 > 0:10:34MUSIC STARTS UP

0:11:44 > 0:11:49These are the jegogan, the cellos, as it were, in this bronze orchestra.

0:11:49 > 0:11:52Like nearly all the instruments, they play in pairs,

0:11:52 > 0:11:54each one slightly differently tuned,

0:11:54 > 0:11:57so that when the pair are struck together,

0:11:57 > 0:11:59they produce a pulsating note.

0:12:56 > 0:12:57All the instruments of the gamelan,

0:12:57 > 0:13:00which between them span seven octaves,

0:13:00 > 0:13:02are tuned to a five-note scale.

0:13:02 > 0:13:05But the precise pitch of those five notes

0:13:05 > 0:13:08is the subject of great and careful debate among the musicians

0:13:08 > 0:13:11when the gamelan is first formed and tuned.

0:13:11 > 0:13:15In practice, no two gamelan are tuned exactly the same.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18Each creates its own individual tonal world,

0:13:18 > 0:13:21and every village echoes to splendid harmonies

0:13:21 > 0:13:24that can be heard nowhere else.

0:13:44 > 0:13:47Music is only one of Bali's arts.

0:13:47 > 0:13:49Just as most people seem to have the ability

0:13:49 > 0:13:51to play an instrument of some sort,

0:13:51 > 0:13:55so everybody also seems to have the talent and the urge to carve.

0:13:55 > 0:13:58The main outlet for their work is the temples.

0:13:58 > 0:14:00The stone blocks are only roughly shaped

0:14:00 > 0:14:02when they're first put in place.

0:14:02 > 0:14:06Men from the village will later carve them as an act of piety.

0:14:07 > 0:14:08The images they create

0:14:08 > 0:14:12are taken from the grotesque pantheon of Hindu mythology.

0:14:12 > 0:14:16But everywhere, the Balinese give full rein to their delight

0:14:16 > 0:14:17in exuberant detail.

0:14:18 > 0:14:20As the only stone in the island

0:14:20 > 0:14:23is a very soft volcanic ash which weathers very quickly,

0:14:23 > 0:14:26the carvings must be renewed every generation,

0:14:26 > 0:14:29so there is ample and permanent work for sculptors.

0:14:43 > 0:14:45TAPPING

0:14:46 > 0:14:49Although temple carving is the main outlet for sculptors,

0:14:49 > 0:14:51it's by no means the only one

0:14:51 > 0:14:55for men of outstanding talent and imagination.

0:14:55 > 0:14:59Ida Bagus Ketut is one of the great mask makers of Bali.

0:14:59 > 0:15:03As it happens, he's also one of the great mask dancers, as well,

0:15:03 > 0:15:05and the masks he carves are used

0:15:05 > 0:15:09in the night-long plays that are one of the island's main entertainments.

0:15:09 > 0:15:12This is a demon, in the form of a wild pig.

0:15:13 > 0:15:15MEN CHAT QUIETLY

0:15:26 > 0:15:30A prince, whose movements must be refined and elegant.

0:15:30 > 0:15:33In the plays, he will speak only in Kawi,

0:15:33 > 0:15:36an archaic form of Javanese, which is almost pure Sanskrit

0:15:36 > 0:15:40and only understood by a very small proportion of Balinese.

0:15:46 > 0:15:48A low, comic character, a monkey.

0:15:53 > 0:15:56HE LAUGHS AT LENGTH

0:16:04 > 0:16:07The job of these kinds of characters is not merely to bring laughs,

0:16:07 > 0:16:10but to translate the Kawi spoken by the refined people

0:16:10 > 0:16:14into low Balinese, which will be understood by all.

0:16:14 > 0:16:15Here's another of them,

0:16:15 > 0:16:18an old man down on his luck, begging for money,

0:16:18 > 0:16:21but irrepressibly cheerful, in spite of everything.

0:16:21 > 0:16:23HE LAUGHS AND CHATS

0:16:29 > 0:16:32MEN CHAT

0:16:38 > 0:16:40LAUGHTER

0:16:41 > 0:16:44A comic and stupid attendant from a rajah's retinue,

0:16:44 > 0:16:47who rather fancies himself.

0:16:47 > 0:16:49With this character, Ketut can convulse the crowds

0:16:49 > 0:16:52who come to watch him whenever he performs.

0:16:57 > 0:16:59A deaf man.

0:17:11 > 0:17:14DOG BARKS

0:17:17 > 0:17:19Of all the arts of Bali,

0:17:19 > 0:17:22painting perhaps was the most static and least inventive.

0:17:22 > 0:17:25It was tied very strictly to traditional Hindu themes

0:17:25 > 0:17:26for its subject matter,

0:17:26 > 0:17:29and the colours it employed were limited to five -

0:17:29 > 0:17:32red, blue, yellow, black and white.

0:17:32 > 0:17:35Even the manner in which the features of these gods and demons are drawn

0:17:35 > 0:17:37was strictly prescribed.

0:17:37 > 0:17:42This was the only kind of painting made in Bali until some 40 years ago.

0:17:42 > 0:17:43In 1923, however,

0:17:43 > 0:17:47something occurred that was to bring about a profound change.

0:17:47 > 0:17:50This man arrived in the island.

0:17:50 > 0:17:51His name was Walter Spies,

0:17:51 > 0:17:54and he was to live for 20 years in Bali

0:17:54 > 0:17:58and to know the Balinese more fully than any European before him.

0:17:58 > 0:17:59He had several homes,

0:17:59 > 0:18:02one in the lowlands, only a mile or so from Peliatan,

0:18:02 > 0:18:05and another up in the mountains.

0:18:05 > 0:18:07But wherever he was, he painted.

0:18:16 > 0:18:18From the veranda of his mountain house,

0:18:18 > 0:18:22he looked across to the holy volcano of Bali, the Gunung Agung,

0:18:22 > 0:18:27one of the most breathtaking views in all the island.

0:18:27 > 0:18:29This landscape, with its luxuriant foliage,

0:18:29 > 0:18:33the endless pattern of immaculately maintained rice terraces,

0:18:33 > 0:18:36populated by a handsome, graceful people,

0:18:36 > 0:18:39provided him with subject matter for the rest of his life.

0:19:19 > 0:19:22These pictures, to a European eye,

0:19:22 > 0:19:25capture not merely the stunning beauty of the island,

0:19:25 > 0:19:28but also convey some of the haunted magical atmosphere

0:19:28 > 0:19:31that permeates the whole of Bali.

0:19:31 > 0:19:34Whether or not this dreamlike quality of Spies's pictures

0:19:34 > 0:19:36was apparent to the Balinese

0:19:36 > 0:19:37is difficult to say,

0:19:37 > 0:19:41As far as they were concerned, the overwhelming effect of these pictures

0:19:41 > 0:19:45was to draw their attention, seemingly for the first time,

0:19:45 > 0:19:48to the image of their island as a subject for painting.

0:19:48 > 0:19:52Suddenly, everyone in Bali was painting in a completely new way.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55It was as though a dam had been broken.

0:19:56 > 0:20:00Spies himself is now dead, drowned in 1942,

0:20:00 > 0:20:04when a ship taking him to Ceylon was torpedoed.

0:20:04 > 0:20:05But a few of those painters

0:20:05 > 0:20:08who contributed to that original explosion of excitement

0:20:08 > 0:20:10are still working.

0:20:10 > 0:20:13Their technique and their new vision

0:20:13 > 0:20:15are the only European things they wish to take from Spies

0:20:15 > 0:20:18and the only thing he wished to give them

0:20:18 > 0:20:20and, so, to find them, you must go

0:20:20 > 0:20:23not to a European-style studio or to a gallery,

0:20:23 > 0:20:26but to small, and often remote, villages

0:20:26 > 0:20:28hidden away among the rice fields.

0:20:31 > 0:20:36Among the most talented of these painters is Ida Bagus Made.

0:20:36 > 0:20:37He paints continuously

0:20:37 > 0:20:41and yet he hates to part with any of his finished canvases.

0:20:41 > 0:20:44Whenever anyone shows any sign of wanting to buy one,

0:20:44 > 0:20:47he puts an impossibly high price upon it.

0:20:47 > 0:20:52As a result, his paintings lie in great piles at the back of his hut,

0:20:52 > 0:20:55tragically vulnerable to rats, termites and fungus.

0:20:56 > 0:21:00The rest of the villagers say that he's mildly eccentric.

0:21:00 > 0:21:03He says that his paintings are his children.

0:21:03 > 0:21:04Why should he get rid of them?

0:21:19 > 0:21:23Since Spies's death, there have been new generations of painters,

0:21:23 > 0:21:26for the new style which he brought has flourished and spread,

0:21:26 > 0:21:30so that it seems now that everybody paints.

0:21:30 > 0:21:32Their pictures still owe something to Spies,

0:21:32 > 0:21:37for it was he, after all, who first introduced a full range of colours

0:21:37 > 0:21:40and Western-style brushes and canvas.

0:21:40 > 0:21:41But now all of these painters

0:21:41 > 0:21:45are undeniably and characteristically Balinese,

0:21:45 > 0:21:48painting not imitations of Spies landscapes,

0:21:48 > 0:21:51but fantasies entirely of their own invention.

0:21:52 > 0:21:54They are, for the most part, men

0:21:54 > 0:21:59who, for most of their days, labour in the fields or fish in the sea.

0:21:59 > 0:22:01They paint when they have time,

0:22:01 > 0:22:05because of that passionate artistic curiosity

0:22:05 > 0:22:07that seems to possess all Balinese.

0:22:40 > 0:22:43This is another of Spies's pictures

0:22:43 > 0:22:46and one which was influential, not so much with painters as with sculptors,

0:22:46 > 0:22:51for these grotesque distortions fascinated Balinese carvers

0:22:51 > 0:22:54and soon they, too, were involved in a visual revolution

0:22:54 > 0:22:57quite as profound as that taking place in painting.

0:22:57 > 0:23:02One of the first to carve in this new way was Ida Bagus Nyana,

0:23:02 > 0:23:06who is now generally agreed to be Bali's greatest sculptor.

0:23:06 > 0:23:09His first carvings after meeting Spies

0:23:09 > 0:23:12were very like those spindly, contorted figures

0:23:12 > 0:23:15that appeared in Spies's paintings.

0:23:15 > 0:23:19Soon afterwards, however, he began to explore new styles and new images.

0:23:19 > 0:23:22Today, he carves only rarely,

0:23:22 > 0:23:26for he has withdrawn from the world to become a Brahman high priest.

0:23:27 > 0:23:30But his last sculptures remain to bear witness

0:23:30 > 0:23:33not to the precise images created by Spies,

0:23:33 > 0:23:38but to the great freedom of vision which Spies first showed Nyana.

0:24:25 > 0:24:28But if there is one art which is paramount in Bali,

0:24:28 > 0:24:30it is the twin art of music and dancing.

0:24:30 > 0:24:34Just as Peliatan has one of the greatest orchestras,

0:24:34 > 0:24:38so also its dancers have an island-wide reputation.

0:24:38 > 0:24:42However, that reputation will rest to a surprising extent

0:24:42 > 0:24:45on the shoulders of this tiny child.

0:24:45 > 0:24:49She's training to dance the greatest of Bali's classical dances,

0:24:49 > 0:24:50the legong.

0:24:50 > 0:24:53It may only be danced by little children,

0:24:53 > 0:24:54and the three Peliatan girls

0:24:54 > 0:24:57who have danced it so perfectly for the past four years

0:24:57 > 0:25:00are now adolescent and too old to continue.

0:25:00 > 0:25:03A new trio must be trained.

0:25:03 > 0:25:06Their teacher is Gusti Made Sengok,

0:25:06 > 0:25:10an old lady who, in her time, was a celebrated legong,

0:25:10 > 0:25:13famous throughout the island for the suppleness of her young body

0:25:13 > 0:25:17and the disciplined fire of her performance.

0:25:17 > 0:25:19Now, as she nears the end of her life,

0:25:19 > 0:25:23she is a deeply respected and much sought-after teacher.

0:25:23 > 0:25:25According to the Anak Agung,

0:25:25 > 0:25:27she is the last living receptacle

0:25:27 > 0:25:29of the great classical tradition of the legong.

0:25:29 > 0:25:32But she's old. No-one knows how old.

0:25:32 > 0:25:37And she no longer has the strength to teach all who want to learn from her.

0:25:37 > 0:25:40So, now she concentrates only on the three little girls

0:25:40 > 0:25:43who are to become Peliatan's new legong.

0:25:43 > 0:25:46They will certainly be her last pupils.

0:25:48 > 0:25:51LAUGHTER

0:25:52 > 0:25:54Training like this has already been going on

0:25:54 > 0:25:57every day for many weeks.

0:25:57 > 0:26:00Again and again, the children must repeat the movements,

0:26:00 > 0:26:01being nudged, coaxed,

0:26:01 > 0:26:06and sometimes almost wrenched into the correct position by old Sengok

0:26:06 > 0:26:10until, at last, the legong - to use the Balinese phrase -

0:26:10 > 0:26:12has gone into their bodies.

0:26:39 > 0:26:42The extraordinary richness of artistic talent

0:26:42 > 0:26:44in this one household

0:26:44 > 0:26:46is apparent in this group.

0:26:46 > 0:26:48The music is played by Made Lebah,

0:26:48 > 0:26:50the co-leader of the gamelan.

0:26:50 > 0:26:55This child is his granddaughter, Gandera's child,

0:26:55 > 0:26:58and the child being held by Gusti Made Sengok

0:26:58 > 0:27:00is seven-year-old Suvi,

0:27:00 > 0:27:03the Anak Agung's youngest daughter by his third wife.

0:27:24 > 0:27:27SHE GIVES INSTRUCTIONS

0:27:42 > 0:27:45If the children are to dance the legong properly,

0:27:45 > 0:27:48they must know the story it tells.

0:27:48 > 0:27:50It concerns the arrogant King of Lasem,

0:27:50 > 0:27:52who kidnaps the daughter of a rival king

0:27:52 > 0:27:53with whom he is at war.

0:27:53 > 0:27:57If she will not marry him, he says, then he will kill her father.

0:27:57 > 0:28:00But she still refuses,

0:28:00 > 0:28:02so the King of Lasem goes into battle with her father

0:28:02 > 0:28:04and is himself killed.

0:28:04 > 0:28:06The Anak Agung tells the story

0:28:06 > 0:28:09prompted without any compunction by old Sengok.

0:28:14 > 0:28:18The tale comes from an ancient collection of Javanese legends.

0:28:18 > 0:28:21It's the Balinese equivalent of the Arabian Nights.

0:28:22 > 0:28:24TEACHERS TALK

0:28:40 > 0:28:42Gusti Made Sengok may be old,

0:28:42 > 0:28:45but she still has the knack of massaging,

0:28:45 > 0:28:47to make a child's body really supple.

0:28:47 > 0:28:49She still knows the precise movements

0:28:49 > 0:28:52that will painfully stretch a tight muscle

0:28:52 > 0:28:54and so loosen it that the child

0:28:54 > 0:28:56will become almost double-jointed.

0:28:57 > 0:28:58Without this massage,

0:28:58 > 0:29:00it will be impossible for a legong

0:29:00 > 0:29:02to assume the correct postures.

0:29:02 > 0:29:03Indeed, this treatment

0:29:03 > 0:29:06is just as essential to a Balinese dancer

0:29:06 > 0:29:09as is really early training in class and at the barre

0:29:09 > 0:29:11to a young ballet dancer in Europe.

0:29:19 > 0:29:23Day after day, the Anak Agung and Made Lebah play for rehearsals.

0:29:23 > 0:29:25MUSIC PLAYS

0:29:38 > 0:29:42The child who plays the prologue at the beginning of the dance

0:29:42 > 0:29:45changes roles later, to become a bird of ill omen,

0:29:45 > 0:29:48which flies in front of the King of Lasem during the battle

0:29:48 > 0:29:50and, thus, foretells his death.

0:29:50 > 0:29:53Her appearance is the dramatic finale to the whole dance,

0:29:53 > 0:29:57which, in its complete version, takes over an hour to perform.

0:29:57 > 0:30:02In training for this character, Peliatan is particularly lucky,

0:30:02 > 0:30:05for they have as teacher Gusti Ayu Raka,

0:30:05 > 0:30:08who, during the world tour, danced the part in New York

0:30:08 > 0:30:10with such electrifying effect

0:30:10 > 0:30:13that she became, at the age of 11, the toast of Broadway.

0:30:39 > 0:30:41TEACHER HUMS TUNE

0:30:44 > 0:30:46Raka still dances

0:30:46 > 0:30:47and is famous in Bali

0:30:47 > 0:30:51for the refinement and personality of her style.

0:30:51 > 0:30:54But her performance as a tiny child of the bird of ill omen

0:30:54 > 0:30:56is still vividly remembered

0:30:56 > 0:30:58and used as an ideal against which

0:30:58 > 0:31:02other, newer characterisations are measured.

0:31:02 > 0:31:06Now, she passes on that insight and technique to another generation.

0:31:26 > 0:31:31Dancing, like music, sculpture and painting, is rooted in religion.

0:31:31 > 0:31:33Indeed, in Balinese terms,

0:31:33 > 0:31:38all acts of artistic expression, are, in a sense, religious acts.

0:31:38 > 0:31:42But this, perhaps, is less remarkable here than in most parts of the world

0:31:42 > 0:31:46for, in truth, Hinduism permeates every aspect of life

0:31:46 > 0:31:48and every hour of the day.

0:31:48 > 0:31:50Every morning and every evening,

0:31:50 > 0:31:53small offerings of rice and flowers

0:31:53 > 0:31:55are made to the ever-present gods.

0:31:55 > 0:31:58Some are placed before the shrines in the house temple.

0:31:58 > 0:32:02Others must be put in doorways and on lintels and niches,

0:32:02 > 0:32:04in places where paths cross

0:32:04 > 0:32:08and in corners which have special magical significance.

0:32:08 > 0:32:11These daily offerings are small and modest.

0:32:11 > 0:32:15In fact, they're more in the nature of tactful reminders to the gods

0:32:15 > 0:32:19of the piety of the household than substantial gifts.

0:32:19 > 0:32:21But for important festivals,

0:32:21 > 0:32:24and there seems to be one every few weeks in most villages,

0:32:24 > 0:32:28really imposing and substantial offerings must be made,

0:32:28 > 0:32:32and here, the Balinese love of ornament and decoration

0:32:32 > 0:32:33has full scope.

0:32:35 > 0:32:40This particular offering is being constructed around a central spine

0:32:40 > 0:32:44made from the soft spongy stem of a banana tree.

0:32:44 > 0:32:47Into it are stuck frangipani blossoms,

0:32:47 > 0:32:50each mounted on a long pin of bamboo.

0:32:55 > 0:32:58THEY CHAT

0:33:26 > 0:33:27The streets of the village have been lined

0:33:27 > 0:33:31with betasselled masts, from which hang penor -

0:33:31 > 0:33:33decorations marvellously constructed

0:33:33 > 0:33:36in hundreds of different shapes and designs,

0:33:36 > 0:33:39from bamboo and coconut palm leaves.

0:33:45 > 0:33:48The festival is to take place in the big temple

0:33:48 > 0:33:50at the other end of the village.

0:33:50 > 0:33:54For the Anak Agung's household, this day is particularly important,

0:33:54 > 0:33:58one for which they have all been preparing for months,

0:33:58 > 0:34:02for they decided long ago that this festival should be the occasion

0:34:02 > 0:34:03on which the new legong

0:34:03 > 0:34:07would perform in public for the very first time.

0:34:07 > 0:34:10Other orchestras from Peliatan are also going up to the temple,

0:34:10 > 0:34:12for every festival must be full of rame -

0:34:12 > 0:34:15exuberant noise and festive crowds,

0:34:15 > 0:34:17so that the gods will be entertained.

0:34:32 > 0:34:36All day long, offerings are carried up to the temple.

0:34:36 > 0:34:41Some are of flowers, others of pink rice cakes, fruit or roast chickens.

0:34:41 > 0:34:43All are meticulously arranged,

0:34:43 > 0:34:46to look as elegant and as decorative as possible.

0:35:11 > 0:35:14The offerings are laid in hundreds before the priest,

0:35:14 > 0:35:17who will take them one by one

0:35:17 > 0:35:19and offer them at the shrines.

0:35:19 > 0:35:21The gods will partake of their essence,

0:35:21 > 0:35:23after which, the simpler, smaller ones

0:35:23 > 0:35:28will be left in the temple to be scavenged by the dogs and birds.

0:35:28 > 0:35:30The more substantial and elaborate

0:35:30 > 0:35:32will be taken back to be eaten at home.

0:35:37 > 0:35:40HE SINGS

0:35:49 > 0:35:51There are no images in a Balinese temple.

0:35:51 > 0:35:53The gods are invisible entities

0:35:53 > 0:35:56who reside in wooden box-like shrines

0:35:56 > 0:35:58or on small stone thrones.

0:35:58 > 0:36:02Peliatan's temple is one of several founded by gods

0:36:02 > 0:36:06whose normal home is high up on the sacred mountain of Batur.

0:36:06 > 0:36:08This festival is to celebrate the visit

0:36:08 > 0:36:10of the parent divinities,

0:36:10 > 0:36:14for within their shrines, they have been brought down in procession

0:36:14 > 0:36:16by men from the mountains,

0:36:16 > 0:36:18to tour all their daughter temples.

0:36:18 > 0:36:22Now, the mountain men themselves begin the gods' entertainment,

0:36:22 > 0:36:25with an ancient spear dance, called a baris.

0:36:25 > 0:36:28MUSIC AND CHANTING

0:37:11 > 0:37:13To the people of Peliatan,

0:37:13 > 0:37:18this performance is, to be candid, a little naive, not to say uncouth.

0:37:18 > 0:37:22The sophisticated subtleties of the lowland music and dance

0:37:22 > 0:37:24have never penetrated into the mountains.

0:37:24 > 0:37:27A dance like this, Gandera said,

0:37:27 > 0:37:30was acceptable and appropriate on such a ritual occasion

0:37:30 > 0:37:32because of its antiquity.

0:37:32 > 0:37:35But he said so with the tolerance of piety.

0:37:35 > 0:37:39To his composer's ear, the music alone was obvious and crude.

0:37:47 > 0:37:50The Anak Agung's gamelan is next to play.

0:37:50 > 0:37:54Their first contribution is also ancient ritual music

0:37:54 > 0:37:55and employs a type of instrument

0:37:55 > 0:37:58that is seldom heard these days in other contexts.

0:37:58 > 0:38:00Even so, they manage to play it

0:38:00 > 0:38:03with their characteristic attack and brilliance.

0:38:28 > 0:38:33As night draws on, offerings are still being made before the shrines.

0:38:33 > 0:38:35Outside the temple,

0:38:35 > 0:38:38another group from Peliatan is preparing to perform the kecak -

0:38:38 > 0:38:40the monkey dance.

0:38:40 > 0:38:42The men, in a five-part chorus,

0:38:42 > 0:38:46act as a vocal background to a story from Hindu mythology,

0:38:46 > 0:38:50in which King Rama's bride is kidnapped by a giant

0:38:50 > 0:38:52and then rescued by Hanuman, the king of the monkeys,

0:38:52 > 0:38:54and his monkey horde.

0:38:54 > 0:38:56WHOOSHING AND SINGING

0:39:01 > 0:39:03CHANTING

0:39:06 > 0:39:08MAN SINGS

0:39:19 > 0:39:22MAN SHOUTS OUT

0:39:25 > 0:39:27LOUD CHANTING

0:39:34 > 0:39:36SINGING

0:40:16 > 0:40:18THEY SHOUT OUT

0:40:21 > 0:40:22CHANTING

0:40:29 > 0:40:31VOICES HARMONISE

0:40:33 > 0:40:36RAPID CHANTING

0:40:59 > 0:41:01VOICES HARMONISE

0:41:03 > 0:41:05CHANTING

0:42:34 > 0:42:36HIGH-PITCHED YELL

0:42:36 > 0:42:38CHANTING

0:42:41 > 0:42:42YELL

0:42:42 > 0:42:44CHANTING

0:42:44 > 0:42:45YELL

0:42:48 > 0:42:52The three children are already preparing for their legong.

0:42:52 > 0:42:54SINGING AND CHANTING CONTINUE

0:42:56 > 0:42:58THEY CHAT

0:43:08 > 0:43:10Their headdresses are made from gilded leather

0:43:10 > 0:43:14and decorated with freshly gathered frangipani blossom.

0:43:14 > 0:43:16They're very hard and extremely heavy,

0:43:16 > 0:43:19and the children must wear them for over an hour.

0:43:27 > 0:43:31Their bodies are tightly bound in gold-painted cloth.

0:43:31 > 0:43:34Their faces are whitened and carefully made up.

0:43:34 > 0:43:39It has fallen to them to provide the final episode in the temple festival,

0:43:39 > 0:43:42to present their skills as an offering to the gods,

0:43:42 > 0:43:44for that, indeed, is the ultimate nature

0:43:44 > 0:43:48of all artistic creation in Bali.

0:43:48 > 0:43:50Their moment has arrived.

0:43:57 > 0:44:00MUSIC PLAYS