Life of a Mountain: A Year on Scafell Pike

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0:00:02 > 0:00:06STIRRING ORCHESTRAL MUSIC

0:01:41 > 0:01:46I live in the north of England and I live in Cumbria.

0:01:46 > 0:01:49It's a working environment where so many people still exist here,

0:01:49 > 0:01:51just as they used to.

0:01:51 > 0:01:54In fact, it's never changed. In little pockets and up valleys

0:01:54 > 0:01:57and green dales, life is still like it always was here.

0:01:57 > 0:02:02And it's hard-fought, is this tradition. It's hard to stick to.

0:02:02 > 0:02:04It's the way we always did it.

0:02:04 > 0:02:06Like not losing the dialect and not losing the way,

0:02:06 > 0:02:10and not losing words like "aye" and "say nowt", or "that'll do".

0:02:10 > 0:02:13And that's what this place is about.

0:02:13 > 0:02:15That's what the mountains are about.

0:02:15 > 0:02:18It's the centuries of shepherding them,

0:02:18 > 0:02:21caring for them, loving them and enjoying them.

0:02:21 > 0:02:22Sometimes it might seem that

0:02:22 > 0:02:25when you live up here, you haven't got time for it, but you have.

0:02:25 > 0:02:28At sunrise, when you look for sheep that have lambed at the back of

0:02:28 > 0:02:31a wall, or at sunset when everybody else has gone. You're still there,

0:02:31 > 0:02:35picking up stones, putting them back on the wall, re-hanging the gates.

0:02:35 > 0:02:38Picking up the litter sometimes.

0:02:38 > 0:02:43Managing this place, so it remains always the same.

0:02:43 > 0:02:47The Lake District is still honest, like so few places are.

0:02:47 > 0:02:51And so are the people. It's time spent and traditions.

0:02:52 > 0:02:56It's just a wonderful place to visit and to live.

0:02:56 > 0:03:00And I can see why so many have returned time and time again.

0:03:00 > 0:03:02You don't have to live here or be born here to feel it.

0:03:02 > 0:03:05It draws, I think, thousands every year.

0:03:06 > 0:03:09And the draw of the mountains, in particular.

0:03:09 > 0:03:12And I think the people as well.

0:03:29 > 0:03:32Another happy mother and daughter.

0:03:36 > 0:03:38These are twins, that were born yesterday.

0:03:38 > 0:03:41And we've sprayed iodine

0:03:41 > 0:03:43on the umbilical cord for infection.

0:03:43 > 0:03:45Then we check to see whether

0:03:45 > 0:03:46they're male or female.

0:03:46 > 0:03:49So, if you like, this is the nursery before they're going on to

0:03:49 > 0:03:51primary school, out in the field.

0:03:59 > 0:04:02So, these... Herdwick's the traditional breed for the Lakeland,

0:04:02 > 0:04:05and many people say it was saved by Beatrix Potter,

0:04:05 > 0:04:09who bought up quite a number of old Herdwick sheep farms,

0:04:09 > 0:04:12years and years ago and donated them to the National Trust.

0:04:12 > 0:04:14But it is a traditional Lakeland breed.

0:04:14 > 0:04:17It's been around for probably at least 1,000 years,

0:04:17 > 0:04:21and I'm told Herdwick is Old Norse for meaning sheep pasture.

0:04:21 > 0:04:25So, they've been here just as long as we have, if not longer.

0:04:25 > 0:04:29And, you know, we keep these traditions going.

0:04:29 > 0:04:33They live up on the fells, here in Wasdale.

0:04:33 > 0:04:36And they're as much a part of the landscape

0:04:36 > 0:04:40and the scenery as all the mountains and all the lakes.

0:04:40 > 0:04:42They are, you know, they are the epitome of what is

0:04:42 > 0:04:45the Lake District National Park to me -

0:04:45 > 0:04:49not everybody agrees. But they're slow maturing.

0:04:49 > 0:04:51They don't breed till the third year.

0:04:51 > 0:04:52The lambs, to get ready,

0:04:52 > 0:04:57probably almost a year before they're ready for market, as it were.

0:04:57 > 0:05:00Herdwicks generally lamb sort of dusk and dawn,

0:05:00 > 0:05:02so we're not here in the middle of the night,

0:05:02 > 0:05:04but I would say we're around till about midnight,

0:05:04 > 0:05:06and then going again from 4am.

0:05:06 > 0:05:09So, yeah, it's a... With a little baby as well,

0:05:09 > 0:05:12it keeps me...keeps me awake most of the hours.

0:06:07 > 0:06:09ROCKS CLATTERING

0:06:12 > 0:06:13Unless that's holding it up.

0:06:13 > 0:06:15Oh, there's some litter there, Rob, as well.

0:06:15 > 0:06:16You like your...

0:06:18 > 0:06:19wombling.

0:06:27 > 0:06:30It's a bit ironic when you think about how people

0:06:30 > 0:06:32are drawn to Scafell Pike to see the biggest hill in England.

0:06:32 > 0:06:35When you think these are just the fragments of the landmass

0:06:35 > 0:06:37that originally was here.

0:06:37 > 0:06:40The old red sandstone that sort of covered this area

0:06:40 > 0:06:42would have been way above our heads.

0:06:42 > 0:06:45That's all been worn away, and all the slate's worn away.

0:06:45 > 0:06:49The activities that created the volcanic series were

0:06:49 > 0:06:52relatively recent. And what we see now,

0:06:52 > 0:06:55we're at the last stage of the formation of this landscape,

0:06:55 > 0:06:58and so all these huge piles of debris

0:06:58 > 0:07:00are really just bits of volcanic, er...

0:07:00 > 0:07:03volcanic ash that have scattered around.

0:07:03 > 0:07:07And then the glacier's came and pushed them around a bit more.

0:07:07 > 0:07:10On our timescale we feel that we're doing something important,

0:07:10 > 0:07:12trying to preserve what we can.

0:07:12 > 0:07:15The balance between the natural erosion

0:07:15 > 0:07:17and human intrusion accelerating it,

0:07:17 > 0:07:20so this is probably the limit of where we go.

0:07:20 > 0:07:23Beyond here, it is natural devastation

0:07:23 > 0:07:26so, yeah, this is about as far as it gets.

0:07:26 > 0:07:29The drain that I built many years ago.

0:07:29 > 0:07:31Doesn't look very good. What's that saying?

0:07:31 > 0:07:34But look at the stone. Look at that.

0:07:34 > 0:07:36- I put that here.- I bet that was there originally.

0:07:36 > 0:07:39Does remind me of that other drain on Yewbarrow, actually.

0:07:39 > 0:07:41Last one on Mickledore.

0:07:45 > 0:07:47And then over to Lingmell.

0:07:52 > 0:07:55Oh, it's a fine drain this. A fine drain! Look at that.

0:07:55 > 0:07:59What a face! Eh?

0:07:59 > 0:08:00Nearly as good as this face.

0:08:08 > 0:08:12I've lived here for the best part of 25 years.

0:08:12 > 0:08:14Been coming to Cumbria since I was a small boy.

0:08:14 > 0:08:18A friend, who used to be a governor at the school,

0:08:18 > 0:08:21he was also a broadcaster.

0:08:21 > 0:08:22He started making DVDs

0:08:22 > 0:08:25about walks in the Lake District.

0:08:25 > 0:08:27Videos in those days, they were.

0:08:27 > 0:08:30And he asked me if I could come and help.

0:08:30 > 0:08:34And that started me on my career as a researcher...

0:08:35 > 0:08:37for walks.

0:08:37 > 0:08:39I mean, what could be better...

0:08:39 > 0:08:42than being sent out to go and find a good walk

0:08:42 > 0:08:46and a few stories... and being paid for it?

0:08:54 > 0:08:56I've just come up from Wasdale Head,

0:08:56 > 0:09:00and off at the old pony track that goes

0:09:00 > 0:09:04over from Wasdale Head into Seathwaite, in Borrowdale.

0:09:04 > 0:09:07That's the original path that people would take,

0:09:07 > 0:09:09especially if they were carrying goods.

0:09:09 > 0:09:13A new route, of course, is the one that goes high up there,

0:09:13 > 0:09:16traverses across the breast of Great Gable.

0:09:16 > 0:09:20It's a boring, tedious route, but this is far more exciting

0:09:20 > 0:09:24because you come to things like this, the Emerald Pool.

0:09:24 > 0:09:28A fabulous little pool, always has a green sheen to it.

0:09:28 > 0:09:30No matter what the weather's like,

0:09:30 > 0:09:33it always looks... Even looks inviting on a cold day.

0:09:34 > 0:09:36Two streams running into it.

0:09:36 > 0:09:39Natural little hollow. Perfect.

0:09:39 > 0:09:44We're just going a little further on, across the stream and head off,

0:09:44 > 0:09:46climbing steeply up towards Scafell Pike.

0:09:46 > 0:09:49My favourite route up this mountain.

0:10:03 > 0:10:07This is a second feature on this particular walk.

0:10:07 > 0:10:09This is Piers Gill.

0:10:09 > 0:10:12Now, whether Piers is a surname,

0:10:12 > 0:10:13a Christian name,

0:10:13 > 0:10:17whether he was male, female, we have no idea.

0:10:17 > 0:10:19But this is Piers Gill,

0:10:19 > 0:10:21and it gives its name to the route we are on.

0:10:21 > 0:10:26Fantastic thing about this route is it hardly ever gets used.

0:10:26 > 0:10:30It's not a scar going across the breast of the fell.

0:10:30 > 0:10:33It's an indistinct path, one easy to follow.

0:10:33 > 0:10:35Absolutely wonderful.

0:10:35 > 0:10:39Piers Gill was the haunt of botanists.

0:10:39 > 0:10:43They just love this place. Searching in the dark

0:10:43 > 0:10:47and dank crevices for rare plants.

0:10:47 > 0:10:51And one such botanist fell in there,

0:10:51 > 0:10:53broke a leg, I believe,

0:10:53 > 0:10:56and lay there for some considerable time.

0:10:56 > 0:10:59I'm talking weeks, not days.

0:10:59 > 0:11:03And lived on water until he was found and rescued.

0:11:03 > 0:11:04And he survived.

0:11:05 > 0:11:07Fabulous mountain.

0:11:09 > 0:11:13Scafell's... Well, number one, they are the biggest. It's the biggest.

0:11:13 > 0:11:153,210 feet high.

0:11:15 > 0:11:19It's the highest in England, and therefore that's got an appeal.

0:11:19 > 0:11:22It brings people here because of that.

0:11:22 > 0:11:26And I suppose that, for me, going up there is the highest.

0:11:26 > 0:11:29Once you get to know the area, you can approach it from this side.

0:11:29 > 0:11:31You can't see it from Wasdale Head.

0:11:31 > 0:11:34You have to come down the valley before you can actually see

0:11:34 > 0:11:37up through Brown Tongue and see to the top.

0:11:37 > 0:11:41And I think that's part of its charm, it's so big, it's remote.

0:11:41 > 0:11:45When I was taking my young son up there, I used to say to him, he used

0:11:45 > 0:11:48to say, "What happens if I get lost?" "You'll never get lost.

0:11:48 > 0:11:50"Just walk downhill.

0:11:50 > 0:11:52"You'll soon find somewhere."

0:11:52 > 0:11:54But, um, he walked down into Upper Eskdale.

0:11:54 > 0:11:58It's still a long way down to the nearest farm or the nearest

0:11:58 > 0:12:01telephone box. But, er,

0:12:01 > 0:12:03people seem to get frightened of these places,

0:12:03 > 0:12:06but there really isn't anything to be really worried about.

0:12:06 > 0:12:08That's not to say you shouldn't take care.

0:12:08 > 0:12:12I'd have mountain rescue at me if I didn't actually say that.

0:12:12 > 0:12:15But prepared, properly prepared,

0:12:15 > 0:12:19and being able to turn round if the weather does come in bad.

0:12:19 > 0:12:21You know, if it starts getting really cold

0:12:21 > 0:12:23and you haven't got the right kit.

0:12:23 > 0:12:26A lot of people just don't turn around and come back and say,

0:12:26 > 0:12:28"We'll do it another day."

0:12:28 > 0:12:30People don't make these good,

0:12:30 > 0:12:34sound, mountaineering decisions that they should, um,

0:12:34 > 0:12:37and that's quite often why people get into difficulties.

0:12:57 > 0:13:00ROAR OF RUSHING WATER

0:13:00 > 0:13:03That's the end of the Piers Gill route.

0:13:03 > 0:13:07It joins up onto the superhighway, which is the corridor route.

0:13:07 > 0:13:09And we're now going to break off

0:13:09 > 0:13:13and head up to Broad Crag Col.

0:13:13 > 0:13:15There's a little bit of snow still lingering in there,

0:13:15 > 0:13:18even though it's a beautiful spring day.

0:13:18 > 0:13:20It'll be good fun.

0:13:59 > 0:14:03Well, made it to the top. And once again, I'm not alone.

0:14:03 > 0:14:07I've never been up here when I've been on my own.

0:14:07 > 0:14:10There's always somebody else up here.

0:14:10 > 0:14:11They say some...

0:14:11 > 0:14:14In the region of 250,000 people get up here every year.

0:14:14 > 0:14:16It's, er...

0:14:16 > 0:14:19We don't need many more to make that number now.

0:14:19 > 0:14:23But the view from here is absolutely splendid.

0:14:23 > 0:14:25Scafell across the way there.

0:14:25 > 0:14:28Just this huge barrier of rock. Just...

0:14:29 > 0:14:31almost says, "Go away.

0:14:31 > 0:14:33"You can't get up here."

0:14:33 > 0:14:37And then there's a great panorama right round.

0:14:37 > 0:14:40All my favourite, local Wasdale fells.

0:14:40 > 0:14:43Seatallan, Buckbarrow, Middle Fell, Yewbarrow.

0:14:43 > 0:14:46The summit cairn, which is massive and has got steps

0:14:46 > 0:14:48so you can get onto the top of it,

0:14:48 > 0:14:51can hold many, many people.

0:14:51 > 0:14:53It's probably the biggest in the Lake District.

0:14:53 > 0:14:58Also here's a memorial to all the men of the Lake District

0:14:58 > 0:15:01who fell during the First World War.

0:15:01 > 0:15:05It was given to the nation by Lord Leconfield.

0:15:56 > 0:15:59I've enjoyed the Lake District

0:15:59 > 0:16:01and Scafell before

0:16:01 > 0:16:04and decided to bring my daughter to come and sample it.

0:16:04 > 0:16:09- How have you found it so far? - Erm, it's been all right.

0:16:09 > 0:16:14Haven't really liked the wind but it's good anyway.

0:16:14 > 0:16:17It's beautiful. You can see for absolutely miles today!

0:16:17 > 0:16:21We were told we could see Scotland, Wales, Ireland from up here.

0:16:21 > 0:16:24We can see about 30 yards!

0:16:26 > 0:16:28I've managed to get to the top of Scafell Pike.

0:16:28 > 0:16:32It's my first big mountain walk and I'm quite chuffed with myself.

0:16:32 > 0:16:35I'm just looking forward to the nice stroll down now.

0:16:35 > 0:16:38I'm Jeremy at the top of Scafell Pike.

0:16:38 > 0:16:40Just climbed it for leisure today.

0:16:40 > 0:16:42Enjoyed the challenge of it,

0:16:42 > 0:16:46trying to get to the top of another mountain. So, thanks.

0:16:46 > 0:16:48WALKERS CHAT IN BACKGROUND

0:16:53 > 0:16:55RUSHING WATER

0:17:00 > 0:17:03Well, the Lake District's always been very special to me.

0:17:03 > 0:17:06It's not got the biggest mountains in the world but, you know...

0:17:06 > 0:17:07By world standards

0:17:07 > 0:17:09they are pimples, you know?

0:17:09 > 0:17:13Scafell Pike here is 900 odd metres high.

0:17:13 > 0:17:16It's not particularly big.

0:17:16 > 0:17:19The Three Peaks Challenge is an interesting one

0:17:19 > 0:17:21from the BMC's point of view.

0:17:21 > 0:17:24One of the most famous challenges that involve walking in the UK -

0:17:24 > 0:17:29doing Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon in 24 hours.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32It's obviously a very popular challenge to do.

0:17:32 > 0:17:37But it does have a dark side, with litter. Litter can be an issue.

0:17:37 > 0:17:39You know, people just sort of dropping

0:17:39 > 0:17:42what they've eaten on the side of the mountain.

0:17:42 > 0:17:47Last year, a volunteer found an octopus on top of Scafell Pike.

0:17:47 > 0:17:52You know, either you've got a very determined octopus

0:17:52 > 0:17:55or somebody brought it up and for some reason decided

0:17:55 > 0:17:58they'd discard it on the top of Scafell Pike.

0:17:58 > 0:18:01But it can also have a massive impact on local residents

0:18:01 > 0:18:04in hundreds of people who sort of turn up,

0:18:04 > 0:18:09disturb local residents, go up, come back down and then go away again

0:18:09 > 0:18:13and don't actually contribute anything to the local area.

0:18:15 > 0:18:17One of the projects we've been involved with recently

0:18:17 > 0:18:20is the Fix the Fells work on top of Calf Cove,

0:18:20 > 0:18:22on the path leading up to the top of Scafell Pike.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25Now, it's one of the most popular routes up Scafell Pike.

0:18:25 > 0:18:28It's the one a lot of people doing the Three Peaks Challenge

0:18:28 > 0:18:30take to the top.

0:18:30 > 0:18:33As such, it sees thousands of visitors walking along that path

0:18:33 > 0:18:36and a huge amount of visitor pressure.

0:18:36 > 0:18:39The second part is what's called a cairn rationalisation,

0:18:39 > 0:18:43but what that means is taking out cairns

0:18:43 > 0:18:46which are unnecessary or misleading.

0:18:46 > 0:18:50So, cairns are a part of mountain culture so, you know,

0:18:50 > 0:18:52in an area with lots of rocks

0:18:52 > 0:18:54and there's not particularly a clear path through it,

0:18:54 > 0:18:59people will construct little piles of rocks that guide the way.

0:18:59 > 0:19:03But over time, you can end up with sort of cairn anarchy

0:19:03 > 0:19:06and you can end up with cairns in places where they shouldn't be

0:19:06 > 0:19:09and which are actually quite misleading and can be dangerous.

0:19:09 > 0:19:14So part of what the volunteers, the National Trust volunteers,

0:19:14 > 0:19:15who did that work did

0:19:15 > 0:19:19was to basically take out the unnecessary cairns.

0:19:20 > 0:19:24OK, what we're doing here on this section of path is just

0:19:24 > 0:19:26redefining the path surface.

0:19:26 > 0:19:29There's lots of different routes that make their way

0:19:29 > 0:19:32through this boulder field and we're just trying to make one

0:19:32 > 0:19:36easily distinguishable, easy-to-walk-on route.

0:19:36 > 0:19:41So what we're doing is taking out quite a few of the large boulders

0:19:41 > 0:19:44that are blocking the main line of the path.

0:19:44 > 0:19:49We're using those boulders to then block off alternative paths

0:19:49 > 0:19:52that we don't want people to walk on any more.

0:19:57 > 0:20:00So we've just been in the clag most of the day.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03It's been, you know, fairly unremarkable.

0:20:03 > 0:20:06We've just basically come out of all the murk and mist and emerged

0:20:06 > 0:20:11to this completely different world where we're above the cloud now.

0:20:11 > 0:20:15You know, it's the kind of thing you see when you come into the mountains

0:20:15 > 0:20:20and it's very hard to describe how amazing it feels to be up here.

0:20:20 > 0:20:24You know, it probably doesn't do it justice in pictures, really.

0:20:24 > 0:20:29When you see moments like this, you realise that it was worth it

0:20:29 > 0:20:31and that's what the BMC's work is all about.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37It's about making sure we always have the right

0:20:37 > 0:20:40to be in places like this and that we preserve the qualities

0:20:40 > 0:20:43of the mountain environment that make it so special to us.

0:20:52 > 0:20:54I can't believe we're here, can you?

0:20:54 > 0:20:57This is my first ever time on Scafell Pike. Is it yours?

0:20:57 > 0:20:59No, no, no. It's my second time.

0:20:59 > 0:21:01- Oh...- I did it about three years ago.

0:21:01 > 0:21:04The weather was a lot different then but it's absolutely gorgeous here.

0:21:04 > 0:21:07The views are absolutely spectacular.

0:21:07 > 0:21:09I've lived in Cumbria for nearly 20 years.

0:21:09 > 0:21:11I can actually see Scafell Pike from my bedroom

0:21:11 > 0:21:13but I've never actually climbed it.

0:21:13 > 0:21:14So we decided that before I was 40 I'd do it.

0:21:14 > 0:21:17And unfortunately, tomorrow is my 40th and I'm running out of time.

0:21:17 > 0:21:20The children have actually beaten me.

0:21:20 > 0:21:22We've got two children with us today

0:21:22 > 0:21:24and it's the third of the Three Peaks for them

0:21:24 > 0:21:26so I'm quite proud of them for getting to the top.

0:21:26 > 0:21:28I've been up here a few times now.

0:21:28 > 0:21:31Mostly working with Duke of Edinburgh Award participants

0:21:31 > 0:21:35and just making sure they're safe and enjoying the fells

0:21:35 > 0:21:37and the beautiful, beautiful area around here.

0:21:37 > 0:21:40What a great day to come up.

0:21:40 > 0:21:42As you can see behind me, fantastic weather.

0:21:42 > 0:21:44Not very often you get to the top of Scafell Pike

0:21:44 > 0:21:46and get glorious sunshine.

0:21:46 > 0:21:48And look at the views. They're to die for.

0:21:48 > 0:21:52Why would you ever need to go abroad when you've got views like this?

0:22:31 > 0:22:32SHEPHERD WHISTLES

0:22:34 > 0:22:36HE WHISTLES

0:22:36 > 0:22:37Steady now.

0:22:38 > 0:22:40Come on, sheep. Come by there.

0:22:40 > 0:22:42HE WHISTLES Come on.

0:22:45 > 0:22:47They like it here. I don't know why.

0:22:47 > 0:22:49Come on, Spider. Come on.

0:22:49 > 0:22:52There couldn't be grass where they were but, er...

0:22:54 > 0:22:56HE WHISTLES Hey!

0:22:56 > 0:22:59I'm Joss Naylor. I've lived in this valley now for

0:22:59 > 0:23:01nearly 78 years.

0:23:01 > 0:23:05I was born at Wasdale Head, a place called Middle Row.

0:23:07 > 0:23:08I took up fell running

0:23:08 > 0:23:10round about 1960.

0:23:10 > 0:23:13There was a mountain trial at Wasdale Head.

0:23:13 > 0:23:16At that time I'd never really done any mountain running.

0:23:16 > 0:23:19I'd been injured. I had no running shoes or anything.

0:23:19 > 0:23:23I just got my knife and cut the legs off my trousers

0:23:23 > 0:23:25and went in my big work boots.

0:23:25 > 0:23:28And I tell you what, it was absolute magic.

0:23:28 > 0:23:30It was one of the greatest things I think I've ever done.

0:23:30 > 0:23:33You know, when you're running well and this sort of thing

0:23:33 > 0:23:36it's absolutely great, because I know when I did

0:23:36 > 0:23:38the 72 peaks over 2,000ft,

0:23:38 > 0:23:41it was one of those days when you just went out

0:23:41 > 0:23:45and enjoyed the whole experience.

0:23:45 > 0:23:47It just seemed like a dream, as though I would never,

0:23:47 > 0:23:50ever do it in 24 hours.

0:23:50 > 0:23:53And going on to Scafell in 47 minutes.

0:23:53 > 0:23:58It was something... It wasn't set up or anything like that.

0:23:58 > 0:24:00And I had my friend with us, John Sutherland.

0:24:00 > 0:24:03I said, "Just time us and I'll have a run up Pike."

0:24:03 > 0:24:06I said, "I've come. I might as well do it."

0:24:06 > 0:24:08And I went up the river.

0:24:08 > 0:24:10I didn't go up Brown Tongue, I went up Little Brown Tongue.

0:24:10 > 0:24:15And I seemed to change up about three gears and just legged it right out.

0:24:15 > 0:24:19And I took a direct line to the end of Pikes Crag

0:24:19 > 0:24:21and I sprinted across to the...

0:24:21 > 0:24:24I touched the cairn and I set off back down.

0:24:24 > 0:24:29I was legging it down there pretty fast and the helicopter come

0:24:29 > 0:24:34and the old commanding officer said to the film man,

0:24:34 > 0:24:38who was taking a film of the Three Peaks for them,

0:24:38 > 0:24:42he said, "Hells bells! I've never seen anything like that in my life!"

0:24:42 > 0:24:45He said, "It's like a bloody mountain goat going!"

0:24:45 > 0:24:48He said, "Just film that bloke down to the bottom."

0:24:48 > 0:24:51Anyway, I got down to the bottom and I said to John,

0:24:51 > 0:24:54"How long's that took?" And he said, "47 minutes."

0:24:54 > 0:24:58And I never thought another thing about it until years after.

0:24:58 > 0:25:01It was something special.

0:25:34 > 0:25:39I don't come from mountain lakeland. I'm a Cotswold farmer originally.

0:25:40 > 0:25:44But I always aspired to come to the Lake District

0:25:44 > 0:25:46and I've always loved wild places.

0:25:48 > 0:25:52In my early 20s I got to know Alfred Wainwright

0:25:52 > 0:25:55and that was a huge transition in my life.

0:25:55 > 0:26:00Primarily because I was dyslexic - I didn't read - but I loved drawing,

0:26:00 > 0:26:04and I shared a passion for line drawing with AW.

0:26:04 > 0:26:07So I had a unique entry into the great outdoors

0:26:07 > 0:26:09through the prism of Alfred Wainwright.

0:26:09 > 0:26:13And it gave me the confidence to start writing my own guidebooks.

0:26:13 > 0:26:17I did the Cotswold Way to start with and I did other routes.

0:26:17 > 0:26:21But ultimately, I felt my destiny was here in the Lake District.

0:26:21 > 0:26:24And I'm here today, studying the paths as I go along it

0:26:24 > 0:26:27and remembering what it was like - how long ago was it? -

0:26:27 > 0:26:30about eight years ago when I did the midwestern fells.

0:26:30 > 0:26:33That's what this category of fells around here are for me.

0:26:33 > 0:26:37The National Trust have done a tremendous job in this area.

0:26:37 > 0:26:41Many people criticise the hard paths but I can assure you,

0:26:41 > 0:26:44the fells are better for all they work they've done.

0:26:44 > 0:26:47And ultimately, walkers are better off.

0:26:47 > 0:26:49But you can still explore.

0:26:49 > 0:26:53And getting away from those hard, pitch paths is the most obvious

0:26:53 > 0:26:57thing for many walkers to do, to really get to know these fells.

0:27:17 > 0:27:22I'm standing on the westernmost point of Esk Rigs Crag on Esk Pike.

0:27:22 > 0:27:27Now, this drawing was taken a little further down at Pike de Bield Moss.

0:27:27 > 0:27:30But because of the temperature inversion

0:27:30 > 0:27:32I'm unable to get to that position.

0:27:34 > 0:27:39But nonetheless, you can still see Esk Buttress and Scafell Pike

0:27:39 > 0:27:42and Little Narrowcove and Ill Crag,

0:27:42 > 0:27:45which are majestically seen from this spot.

0:27:45 > 0:27:50So, wherever you stand on this southerly ridge of Esk Pike,

0:27:50 > 0:27:55you are sure to be wowed by Scafell Pike.

0:27:55 > 0:27:58And the joy of turning it into something as enduring

0:27:58 > 0:28:02as a pen and ink drawing is something that thrills me.

0:28:02 > 0:28:05And there are numerous angles here that I could capture

0:28:05 > 0:28:11that would instil this magic of the wild Scafell massif.

0:28:21 > 0:28:25These mountains have a special emotional attachment to me.

0:28:25 > 0:28:28I love the little summit of Slight Side, for example.

0:28:30 > 0:28:34And I got great pleasure in scrambling up Cam Spout Crag.

0:28:34 > 0:28:36Seldom climbed, it's seemed, by the average walker,

0:28:36 > 0:28:40but it gets you up onto Long Green

0:28:40 > 0:28:44and you look across the combe towards Ill Crag.

0:28:44 > 0:28:48My very special place is Pen, above Esk Buttress.

0:28:48 > 0:28:51Where you're really intimate with Little Narrowcove,

0:28:51 > 0:28:54which spills great crags and scree

0:28:54 > 0:28:58in a way that you can't comprehend from any other aspect.

0:28:59 > 0:29:02And I really love being on Ill Crag itself.

0:29:02 > 0:29:06Cos, again, you're looking down on Pen and down into

0:29:06 > 0:29:10Little Narrowcove and up and across to Scafell Pike itself.

0:29:10 > 0:29:12And this is always very special.

0:29:12 > 0:29:15When you can find these special places,

0:29:15 > 0:29:17you can find the little combes like Foxes Tarn,

0:29:17 > 0:29:22and the greater combe that runs around towards Cam Spout Crag

0:29:22 > 0:29:24and then Little Narrowcove itself,

0:29:24 > 0:29:28which is an amazing valley that rises raw and craggy

0:29:28 > 0:29:31right up to Broad Crag Col.

0:29:31 > 0:29:33Seldom climbed.

0:29:33 > 0:29:36And you get to that point and there's a procession of happy souls,

0:29:36 > 0:29:39all thinking they're on the only path that's worthy of being on.

0:29:39 > 0:29:42And yet you know different when you're there.

0:30:27 > 0:30:31What we're experiencing here at Wasdale Show is something that...

0:30:31 > 0:30:33is an unbroken link that goes back

0:30:33 > 0:30:34over hundreds of years,

0:30:34 > 0:30:37through the farming life of these valley heads.

0:30:37 > 0:30:39And this is the most spectacular

0:30:39 > 0:30:42valley head in the whole of Britain.

0:30:42 > 0:30:44But it's not... They call it a show but it isn't really a show.

0:30:44 > 0:30:46It's a shepherd's meet.

0:30:46 > 0:30:50It's a shepherd's meet because the shepherds used to come into here

0:30:50 > 0:30:54with all the stray sheep, that have come

0:30:54 > 0:30:56from all the hefted flocks around the place,

0:30:56 > 0:30:58and they would exchange sheep.

0:30:58 > 0:31:01You'd have a few whiskys and go home after two or three days

0:31:01 > 0:31:03with raging hangovers and the wrong sheep.

0:31:03 > 0:31:06- Walking back over the passes. - Indeed, yeah.

0:31:06 > 0:31:10- Well...- In any weather. - Well, stumbling, maybe.- Yeah.

0:31:10 > 0:31:14And then, when the shepherds got together, they not only drank,

0:31:14 > 0:31:17they also had competitions among themselves -

0:31:17 > 0:31:20who had the best boots? Who had the best crook?

0:31:20 > 0:31:22Who could run fastest up a hill?

0:31:22 > 0:31:26Who could wrestle? Cumberland and Westmorland wrestling, you know.

0:31:26 > 0:31:28The only place where you'll see a man

0:31:28 > 0:31:32wearing his knickers on the outside with some embroidery on.

0:31:32 > 0:31:35BACKGROUND CHATTER

0:31:39 > 0:31:43INDISTINCT ANNOUNCEMENT

0:31:44 > 0:31:49BOY: Erm, well, we're mostly here to, like,

0:31:49 > 0:31:55bring sheep to boost business when we're selling and, like,

0:31:55 > 0:31:59last Saturday there was a Cockermouth tup sale that we sold tups at.

0:31:59 > 0:32:03And one made 3,000 and that's beat us here today with our own sheep.

0:32:03 > 0:32:06So one of our own beat us!

0:32:06 > 0:32:09You get a kind of mixture of tups.

0:32:09 > 0:32:13You get the hard coated, which have been at fell all year

0:32:13 > 0:32:17and you get a bit smoother which haven't been to the fell as often.

0:32:17 > 0:32:22Around here, you'll get the rough coated. And down the lowlands,

0:32:22 > 0:32:26you'll get all smooth and soft coated that's not really that good.

0:32:26 > 0:32:29This show is always very well patronised by

0:32:29 > 0:32:31the Herdwick sheep breeders.

0:32:31 > 0:32:33This morning you'll see the best sheep

0:32:33 > 0:32:36probably anywhere in the Lake District.

0:32:36 > 0:32:41It's been a good summer, a good back end,

0:32:41 > 0:32:44and you'll never see them any fitter than they are today.

0:32:44 > 0:32:48It's a credit to the flockmasters who've brought them.

0:32:48 > 0:32:51They've got a good length sheep and a good coloured sheep.

0:32:51 > 0:32:55A lot of these sheep are no longer fell sheep. They've become spoiled.

0:33:12 > 0:33:16Yeah, we're here at the Wasdale Show today for a number of reasons.

0:33:16 > 0:33:19One of the reasons being we're the rescue team that looks after

0:33:19 > 0:33:22the Wasdale and Eskdale valleys

0:33:22 > 0:33:25and we're here to support the local farmers,

0:33:25 > 0:33:28and the local shops and businesses,

0:33:28 > 0:33:32and basically to show people that we're actually here.

0:33:32 > 0:33:35We're quite a busy team.

0:33:37 > 0:33:43And sometimes we rely quite a lot on the local people for their charity.

0:33:43 > 0:33:45We're also here to raise money

0:33:45 > 0:33:49so there'll be people visiting the valley from far and wide

0:33:49 > 0:33:52just so they can learn a bit more about the team and hopefully,

0:33:52 > 0:33:55at the same time, drop a little donation in

0:33:55 > 0:33:58to keep our charity running.

0:33:58 > 0:34:01- That's fine. Thank you. - Is that OK?- That's all right.

0:34:01 > 0:34:05DISTORTED ANNOUNCEMENT

0:34:09 > 0:34:12OVER PA: 'Anybody want to win a prize who's got a beard?

0:34:12 > 0:34:14'Come into the tent, please.'

0:34:14 > 0:34:19- You have to judge them on colour as well, you see.- Texture.

0:34:20 > 0:34:24Can I just say very quietly, at this year's Wasdale Head Show,

0:34:24 > 0:34:25and last year's,

0:34:25 > 0:34:30David Powell-Thompson won the Best Beard competition.

0:34:30 > 0:34:34THEY CHEER

0:34:34 > 0:34:35It's just maintaining a long tradition.

0:34:35 > 0:34:37Even though I'm not a shepherd,

0:34:37 > 0:34:40I've still been coming here for 23 years and I'll be coming here

0:34:40 > 0:34:43- until the day I can't come here any more.- Absolutely.

0:34:46 > 0:34:48It's a great honour, actually.

0:34:48 > 0:34:52A lot of effort goes into keeping this just the way it is, you know.

0:34:52 > 0:34:53And yeah,

0:34:53 > 0:34:56It'll go next to the last year's first prize as well.

0:34:58 > 0:35:00In the strands, that is.

0:35:00 > 0:35:02EDITOR: What does the money go on that you win?

0:35:02 > 0:35:04The money? I will spend the money on beer.

0:35:04 > 0:35:08It's the one day of the year that I ring-fence in my diary.

0:35:08 > 0:35:10And I don't care.

0:35:10 > 0:35:13Somebody could come along and offer me double, treble,

0:35:13 > 0:35:16quadruple the rate for the job, I'll say no.

0:35:16 > 0:35:19The Wasdale Head Show is sacrosanct.

0:35:45 > 0:35:50I first came to the Lake District about 31 or 32 years ago

0:35:50 > 0:35:52and it's always meant

0:35:52 > 0:35:54so much to my wife and I.

0:35:54 > 0:35:57We'd gone to the other side to Brotherswater

0:35:57 > 0:36:01and two or three days in we were going down Wordsworth's Cottage

0:36:01 > 0:36:03and my wife didn't feel too well.

0:36:03 > 0:36:06And we went to the guide and said,

0:36:06 > 0:36:09"Really sorry, but don't want to interrupt everything

0:36:09 > 0:36:11"but my wife doesn't feel too good."

0:36:11 > 0:36:13So she said, "Dear, dear.

0:36:13 > 0:36:15"Go into the garden but whatever you do,

0:36:15 > 0:36:17"please don't be sick on the daffodils."

0:36:17 > 0:36:20And it's something that's always resonated with us

0:36:20 > 0:36:23for the simple reason that we realised then

0:36:23 > 0:36:27that Irene was pregnant with our first son, David.

0:36:27 > 0:36:29And the Lake District, since that particular point,

0:36:29 > 0:36:32has become incredibly poignant to us.

0:36:32 > 0:36:35I particularly love Wastwater.

0:36:35 > 0:36:39There is something about this specific location

0:36:39 > 0:36:41that just hits you here.

0:36:41 > 0:36:45And when you look at Scafell and Scafell Pike,

0:36:45 > 0:36:48it isn't this huge, dominant turret

0:36:48 > 0:36:52that stands out amongst everything else.

0:36:52 > 0:36:54But it has a majesty to it.

0:36:54 > 0:36:57You see the two sides of the Pike and Scafell

0:36:57 > 0:37:01and it's almost like a king and queen, looking down upon everything.

0:37:01 > 0:37:04And it fits in beautifully.

0:37:04 > 0:37:08It's dominant without being over dominant.

0:37:08 > 0:37:12But the beauty of that particular fell is there's so much to it.

0:37:12 > 0:37:15So many facets. And I think that gets missed sometimes.

0:37:15 > 0:37:18You see some of the sunrises

0:37:18 > 0:37:21and sunsets here that are just absolutely staggering.

0:37:21 > 0:37:26You get this incredible pink and orange light which is just surreal.

0:37:26 > 0:37:29I thought I'd try something out, something I've never done before,

0:37:29 > 0:37:33and went completely against the grain.

0:37:33 > 0:37:35Brought the iPod with me,

0:37:35 > 0:37:40settled myself here about half five one morning

0:37:40 > 0:37:47and just as the sun was beginning to rise over the back of Gable...

0:37:48 > 0:37:53..I put on this piece of music that meant so much to me.

0:37:54 > 0:37:56The feeling that was engendered...

0:37:56 > 0:37:57Wow!

0:37:59 > 0:38:02It's just something that you can't replicate cos you only have

0:38:02 > 0:38:06this sort of 10 or 15 minute window for sunrise or sunsets.

0:38:06 > 0:38:11I took out the earbuds and just listened. And I was...

0:38:11 > 0:38:15I think I was probably the only person on this water.

0:38:15 > 0:38:19And the feeling of specialty was just unbelievable.

0:38:19 > 0:38:25Ravens were going overhead then. You could hear the Herdwicks. Staggering.

0:38:25 > 0:38:27Just staggering.

0:39:00 > 0:39:02Yeah, it's quite unique, Wasdale.

0:39:02 > 0:39:05I mean, everywhere has the four seasons

0:39:05 > 0:39:09but each season here in Wasdale is very different to another.

0:39:09 > 0:39:12And there's different jobs throughout the year we have to do.

0:39:12 > 0:39:15We're currently in autumn and, yeah, it's a little bit frosty

0:39:15 > 0:39:17this morning, a bit chilly,

0:39:17 > 0:39:20hence we decided to have a bit of a warm up after work.

0:39:22 > 0:39:26But, yeah, the process at the moment is basically breeding for next year

0:39:26 > 0:39:29so whether that's the goats or the Herdwicks that we have,

0:39:29 > 0:39:32we've got to plan for next year.

0:39:32 > 0:39:34And a lot of work goes into getting

0:39:34 > 0:39:36the tups ready and the billies ready.

0:39:36 > 0:39:39We need to make sure they're fighting fit and strong

0:39:39 > 0:39:42so that beforehand they all get extra feed

0:39:42 > 0:39:46and build up their strength. So that when they go out to the girls,

0:39:46 > 0:39:48because of the amount of work they have to do,

0:39:48 > 0:39:52they lose a lot of weight, a lot of...

0:39:52 > 0:39:55They put a lot of energy into the work they do.

0:39:55 > 0:39:59So they lose a lot of condition throughout the breeding time.

0:40:16 > 0:40:17Steady.

0:40:20 > 0:40:22Good girl. Good girl. Steady on.

0:40:24 > 0:40:26Steady on. That's it, good girl.

0:40:26 > 0:40:27Good girl.

0:40:29 > 0:40:32And down. Good girl!

0:40:32 > 0:40:34Good girl.

0:40:35 > 0:40:40She's a top dog, top dog! Good girl.

0:40:40 > 0:40:44But, yeah, the Herdwicks come down from the fells.

0:40:44 > 0:40:48All the breeding is done on the in-bye land.

0:40:48 > 0:40:50And the goats as well. They come down from the high ground

0:40:50 > 0:40:54and they do all the breeding as well on the lower in-bye land.

0:40:54 > 0:40:55It's...

0:40:56 > 0:40:58It obviously adds to the...

0:41:00 > 0:41:04..the diversity of the work from being either up on the higher ground

0:41:04 > 0:41:07and then the animals being on the lower pasture ground.

0:41:07 > 0:41:09For the Herdwicks themselves,

0:41:09 > 0:41:13they're not overly keen on being on low, flat, square fields.

0:41:13 > 0:41:18By the time their breeding season's out of the way,

0:41:18 > 0:41:20they're telling you they want to go.

0:41:20 > 0:41:23They're knocking walls down, they're clambering over fences.

0:41:23 > 0:41:26You can tell when it's time for the Herdwicks to go back to the fells.

0:41:32 > 0:41:33Steady on.

0:41:40 > 0:41:44Herdwick sheep's an important breed of sheep for this part

0:41:44 > 0:41:48of the Lake District. It is the figurehead of the Lake District.

0:41:48 > 0:41:52It's what makes the Lake District looks like it does.

0:41:52 > 0:41:58So, when you're out walking the fells, climbing the mountains,

0:41:58 > 0:42:02just take a moment of your time and look around and see why it looks

0:42:02 > 0:42:06the way it does. And that's because of the Herdwick sheep

0:42:06 > 0:42:09and the generations of farmers that have farmed these valleys,

0:42:09 > 0:42:13and these fells, that make it look the way it does for you to enjoy.

0:42:53 > 0:42:56SIREN COMES ON AND GOES OFF

0:43:05 > 0:43:08THEY CHAT INDISTINCTLY

0:43:13 > 0:43:16The Wasdale Mountain Rescue Team are based in Gosforth,

0:43:16 > 0:43:19which covers the valleys of Eskdale and Wasdale.

0:43:19 > 0:43:21We are quite a busy team.

0:43:21 > 0:43:23We deal with lots of things, from the sad fatalities,

0:43:23 > 0:43:25to just dealing with people who need

0:43:25 > 0:43:27a bit of a helping hand on the Fell.

0:43:27 > 0:43:29They just need a bit of a telephone call to tell them,

0:43:29 > 0:43:32"Yeah, you're on the right path, keep going."

0:43:32 > 0:43:35But also, every now and then, we get called out to help the local farmers,

0:43:35 > 0:43:36the communities, and we'll go out

0:43:36 > 0:43:38if the farmer's got a sheep that's cragfast.

0:43:38 > 0:43:41We have been called out once to a cow that was missing up on Scafell,

0:43:41 > 0:43:43and some of the team turned out to that.

0:43:43 > 0:43:46Nowadays, we do ask ourselves some certain questions before we go out,

0:43:46 > 0:43:49especially in the summer season when the Three Peaks Challenge

0:43:49 > 0:43:51is going on, we need to be thinking,

0:43:51 > 0:43:52"Well, do we want to turn the team out

0:43:52 > 0:43:55"at one o'clock in the morning to get some lost people?"

0:43:55 > 0:43:56And then the team are tired,

0:43:56 > 0:43:58so we start looking at, "Well, is a life that risk?

0:43:58 > 0:44:00"Is there any medical problems? Is anybody injured?"

0:44:00 > 0:44:03If there's no severe weather forecast, the chances are,

0:44:03 > 0:44:05if people have got the right equipment, we are going to

0:44:05 > 0:44:07leave them and expect them to come out in the morning,

0:44:07 > 0:44:10that is general mountaineering. People should start to recognise

0:44:10 > 0:44:12that they should be doing that in some cases.

0:44:21 > 0:44:24And I think it's important for people to remember that we are

0:44:24 > 0:44:27a voluntary organisation when they make that call.

0:44:27 > 0:44:30We are coming from work. We may be coming from dinner,

0:44:30 > 0:44:33or we may be taking our wives out for a nice meal.

0:44:33 > 0:44:35It never goes down very well.

0:44:35 > 0:44:37So people need to remember that sometimes,

0:44:37 > 0:44:40that we are volunteers, we come out of our own good will to do this job.

0:44:45 > 0:44:46So, just sit yourself there.

0:44:46 > 0:44:49Do you recall losing consciousness at all?

0:44:49 > 0:44:52I went a bit delirious at the start, yeah.

0:44:52 > 0:44:55So, Scafell Pike usually attracts most of our attention.

0:44:55 > 0:44:59England's highest mountain and all. We get all sorts of rescues up there.

0:44:59 > 0:45:03So, you know, we get the odd turned ankle.

0:45:03 > 0:45:05There was one recently where we had a turned ankle.

0:45:05 > 0:45:08The husband thought it was just a simple twist and we got up there,

0:45:08 > 0:45:10and it was quite a nasty fractured dislocation.

0:45:10 > 0:45:12We get really serious ones.

0:45:12 > 0:45:15The serious ones on Scafell Pike tend to be around

0:45:15 > 0:45:16Broadstand's sort of area.

0:45:16 > 0:45:20People venture onto Broadstand, slip on the rock and, unfortunately,

0:45:20 > 0:45:22usually fatality.

0:45:22 > 0:45:26But winter approaches, people tend to be going out without crampons

0:45:26 > 0:45:30and ice axe, and you just tend to attract a few more incidents,

0:45:30 > 0:45:34twisted ankles, but we do get the odd serious one where, you know,

0:45:34 > 0:45:38people have taken considerable falls from the top

0:45:38 > 0:45:40of Lord's Rake path, for example.

0:45:40 > 0:45:46We had a devastating fatality just on the Lord's Rake path last year.

0:45:46 > 0:45:48I think it was December sort of time.

0:45:48 > 0:45:52He took a fall and he come down the front of Red Gill area.

0:45:52 > 0:45:56It was quite a sad time for the family. Yeah, he was in a bad way.

0:46:03 > 0:46:04Well, today

0:46:04 > 0:46:08I'm exploring slightly lower down this area.

0:46:08 > 0:46:09This side of Scafell

0:46:09 > 0:46:13on the Lakes I think is the wildest side.

0:46:13 > 0:46:15Here, it's quite complex terrain.

0:46:15 > 0:46:18There's all sorts of interesting little knolls.

0:46:18 > 0:46:20There's little bowls, there's streams,

0:46:20 > 0:46:22there's waterfalls, there's pools,

0:46:22 > 0:46:24so it's changing all the time.

0:46:24 > 0:46:27You're in this fantastic bowl of hills,

0:46:27 > 0:46:31stretching right round from Crinkle Crag, right the way round

0:46:31 > 0:46:35to Bowfell and Esk Pike to Scafell, which is behind me.

0:46:41 > 0:46:43Well, I've been exploring round these crags,

0:46:43 > 0:46:48and it's really quite interesting what you find and what you see.

0:46:48 > 0:46:54On the crags behind me here, you can see a line of dark juniper bushes

0:46:54 > 0:46:57growing on soil on the cliffs themselves.

0:46:57 > 0:47:00But there's none above and below there

0:47:00 > 0:47:02and that's because of the sheep.

0:47:02 > 0:47:04And that's one of the things with this landscape.

0:47:04 > 0:47:09Whilst it feels really wild, it's not an untouched wilderness.

0:47:09 > 0:47:13If there were no sheep, there would be juniper bushes

0:47:13 > 0:47:16and probably other trees scattered all over this area.

0:47:16 > 0:47:20As it is, they can only grow where the sheep, good though the sheep are

0:47:20 > 0:47:23at some mountaineering, but there's a limit to what they can do,

0:47:23 > 0:47:26and if the sheep can't get there, the bushes can grow.

0:47:28 > 0:47:32One of the great things about wild camping somewhere like this

0:47:32 > 0:47:35is that because I'm staying in one place for a while,

0:47:35 > 0:47:40while I'm in camp, I can look at the hills and see the details,

0:47:40 > 0:47:44see the changes as the hours go by in a way that, if you're walking,

0:47:44 > 0:47:49you miss because you're moving on. And it's always a different view -

0:47:49 > 0:47:53I'm seeing new details, new bits and pieces, little valleys, and so on.

0:48:31 > 0:48:34One of the great things about being here at night is that you can see

0:48:34 > 0:48:38the whole sky. There's no light pollution at all.

0:48:38 > 0:48:43There's no glow on the horizon from even a house, let alone a town.

0:48:43 > 0:48:47So, when the stars are out, everything is absolutely

0:48:47 > 0:48:49clear and sharp.

0:48:49 > 0:48:52At the moment, there's the moon, there's some stars,

0:48:52 > 0:48:54there's drifting clouds.

0:48:54 > 0:48:57But it's all natural, it's all what's up in the sky,

0:48:57 > 0:48:59that's not affected by town lights.

0:50:25 > 0:50:29I'm Alan Hinkes, mountaineer and mountain guide.

0:50:29 > 0:50:32I've climbed all over the world but I love climbing in Britain.

0:50:37 > 0:50:40It's an absolutely brilliant place to rock climb and winter climb.

0:50:40 > 0:50:44You can see the black streaks where icicles form and then,

0:50:44 > 0:50:46behind me, is the main cliff with all the famous climbs on,

0:50:46 > 0:50:50like Botterills Slab, Central Buttress, Moss Gill, Steep Gill,

0:50:50 > 0:50:53Deep Gill, you can see the full nine yards.

0:50:53 > 0:50:57Fantastic. One of the best cliffs in the British Isles.

0:50:57 > 0:50:59In fact, one of the best cliffs in the world.

0:50:59 > 0:51:02It's just sheer quality, from bottom to top.

0:51:02 > 0:51:04And you can have a fantastic experience.

0:51:04 > 0:51:07You can have a whole day out on the Scafells.

0:51:07 > 0:51:11Usually, you need a whole day to get something done, a long day in winter.

0:51:11 > 0:51:15You'll set off predawn and come back in the dark with a head torch.

0:51:15 > 0:51:19This is Mickledore, which is between Scafell and Scafell Pike.

0:51:19 > 0:51:23It's a rocky col that separates Wasdale from Eskdale.

0:51:23 > 0:51:26And I came up here as a teenager,

0:51:26 > 0:51:29one of my first big fell walks I ever did.

0:51:29 > 0:51:32And I stayed in Black Sail Youth Hostel,

0:51:32 > 0:51:35and then I came over here to Mickledore, intending to get

0:51:35 > 0:51:40to Scafell Pike, and I got sucked in in the mist, the clag, the cloud.

0:51:40 > 0:51:45So I managed to get up here and I bivouacked here in the cloud,

0:51:45 > 0:51:48bivouacked in the thick mist next to this rescue box.

0:51:48 > 0:51:51I actually thought it was going to be a hut,

0:51:51 > 0:51:55so I spent a night here alone in the mist.

0:51:55 > 0:51:58And then, afterwards, I carried on up to the top of Scafell Pike.

0:51:58 > 0:52:03But this place is absolutely rich in climbing and walking heritage.

0:52:03 > 0:52:07You've got Broadstand here, which leads up to the top of Scafell,

0:52:07 > 0:52:11but that's not to be attempted by hillwalkers.

0:52:11 > 0:52:13In fact, a lot of climbers can't even do Broadstand.

0:52:13 > 0:52:15It's never been done by Wainwright.

0:52:15 > 0:52:19I think it was possibly the first climb ever done or ever recorded

0:52:19 > 0:52:21by Samuel Taylor Coleridge.

0:52:21 > 0:52:26The Scafells definitely feed my passion for the hills

0:52:26 > 0:52:30AND the mountains, whether it be rock climbing in summer,

0:52:30 > 0:52:32on the fantastic cliffs,

0:52:32 > 0:52:35or winter mountaineering, snow, and ice climbing

0:52:35 > 0:52:37they've just got everything you need.

0:52:37 > 0:52:41Sometimes it's frustrating cos the weather can be very,

0:52:41 > 0:52:44very inclement, very bad, and then you can't get out and do anything.

0:52:44 > 0:52:46So it's pleasure.

0:52:46 > 0:52:49You could almost say it's pleasure and pain on the Scafells,

0:52:49 > 0:52:53and certainly a test of your stamina and resilience and determination.

0:52:54 > 0:52:56They're as testing as any mountain.

0:52:56 > 0:52:59You only need to go out for a day, really, on the Scafells,

0:52:59 > 0:53:04and get back for a decent pint and a meal unless you get benighted,

0:53:04 > 0:53:06or unless you decide to go and camp.

0:53:06 > 0:53:08Fat Man's Agony, here we go.

0:53:18 > 0:53:19Squeeze through this.

0:53:26 > 0:53:30Open up, get me arm stuck, so I've got to bite it off to escape.

0:53:41 > 0:53:46So many accidents happen here. People try to descend it in the summer.

0:53:47 > 0:53:51Some people have mooted putting a ladder. I think that would only

0:53:51 > 0:53:54increase accidents cos it would encourage more people to come here.

0:53:54 > 0:53:56Let's hope it doesn't get any wetter.

0:54:00 > 0:54:01That's wet.

0:54:03 > 0:54:06Some wet hand holes here. Other than that, the rock's not too bad.

0:54:08 > 0:54:11People often ask me to compare the 8,000 metre peaks,

0:54:11 > 0:54:16like Everest and K2, to the Scafells. It's not really...

0:54:16 > 0:54:19There's not really a comparison as such, other than

0:54:19 > 0:54:24they're all mountains, and Scafell is, obviously, a lot smaller.

0:54:24 > 0:54:27In many ways, I'd rather be on Scafell than Everest or K2

0:54:27 > 0:54:30because you can have a fantastic experience and it's just a day trip,

0:54:30 > 0:54:33or you can go and camp and have a couple of days there.

0:54:33 > 0:54:39To commit to Everest or K2 is accepting that you may get killed.

0:54:39 > 0:54:42Well, I don't think I'm going to get up this slimy rock today.

0:54:42 > 0:54:47It's still draining from the winter and there's a lot of lichen

0:54:47 > 0:54:50and moss on it, so it's very greasy and slippery.

0:54:50 > 0:54:54And the holes are slabby, slipping out, not any good...

0:54:54 > 0:54:58particularly good hand holes, and even a bit of overhanging rock here.

0:54:58 > 0:55:01So I think retreat is the better part of valour.

0:55:02 > 0:55:05No point in dying on this.

0:55:05 > 0:55:09So, this is Broadstand, a very tricky, rocky step,

0:55:09 > 0:55:12not to be recommended to hillwalkers or fellwalkers.

0:55:12 > 0:55:14It's not the way up Scafell.

0:55:19 > 0:55:22Or it's not an easy way up Scafell anyway.

0:55:22 > 0:55:25In summer, if you're a rock climber, it may be possible.

0:55:26 > 0:55:28But it's very tricky.

0:55:28 > 0:55:32And a slip has generally very serious or fatal consequences here.

0:55:32 > 0:55:34So I'd better get down.

0:55:38 > 0:55:41Not laughing. I'd better get down!

0:55:43 > 0:55:47Tell you what, don't you know the rescue team?

0:55:47 > 0:55:50Could they get to the top and lower me a rope, do you think?

0:55:50 > 0:55:53The Wasdale Rescue Team. "Wasdale Rescue Team!"

0:55:53 > 0:55:55Yeah, that'd be embarrassing.

0:55:55 > 0:55:58Just nip round to the top and lower me a rope.

0:55:58 > 0:56:00I'll get down.

0:56:00 > 0:56:02I hope.

0:56:03 > 0:56:05In winter, the whole area can change.

0:56:05 > 0:56:08It sort of has, in a way, menacing friendliness.

0:56:08 > 0:56:12I mean, the whole area seems friendly to me. It's like an old mate.

0:56:12 > 0:56:15I love going back to Scafell.

0:56:15 > 0:56:17You could be going up in a blizzard,

0:56:17 > 0:56:19fighting against the teeth of a gale, or, if you're lucky,

0:56:19 > 0:56:24it can be fantastic blue skies and crisp, perfect snow and ice.

0:56:24 > 0:56:27Like any mountains, though, the Scafells shouldn't be underestimated.

0:56:27 > 0:56:32In fact, I often point out to people I've been avalanched on Great End.

0:56:32 > 0:56:33People can't believe it.

0:56:33 > 0:56:36They say, "What, you've been avalanched in the Lake District?"

0:56:36 > 0:56:40And, yeah, I escaped by the skin of my teeth.

0:56:40 > 0:56:44It was me who set the avalanche off at the top of a climb on Great End.

0:56:44 > 0:56:48I'd soloed without ropes up a Grade IV route,

0:56:48 > 0:56:50through Grade III, IV.

0:56:50 > 0:56:53Somehow, I managed to crab crawl and swim out of the avalanche,

0:56:53 > 0:56:55and got away.

0:56:55 > 0:56:59Whenever I'm mountaineering, rock climbing, or ice climbing,

0:56:59 > 0:57:02or even just fellwalking, I feel in my element.

0:57:02 > 0:57:05That's when I feel alive, in the Scafells.

0:57:05 > 0:57:07I'm as alive as anywhere.

0:57:07 > 0:57:11It just feels like you're on one of the best mountains

0:57:11 > 0:57:14in the world really, and it's fantastic.

0:57:14 > 0:57:17Other peaks in the Lakes and all over Britain, but, for me,

0:57:17 > 0:57:20I've just got to be out in the fells and then that's it.