Victoria

Download Subtitles

Transcript

0:00:03 > 0:00:05Coast has returned.

0:00:07 > 0:00:10After our first look at Australia's epic coastline...

0:00:12 > 0:00:14..it was clear we'd barely begun to cover

0:00:14 > 0:00:18this vast and surprising continent.

0:00:18 > 0:00:23It's great to be back to explore eight new fascinating coastlines.

0:00:26 > 0:00:28From the Pilbara to the Torres Strait,

0:00:28 > 0:00:32from Norfolk Island to South Australia,

0:00:32 > 0:00:34we're setting out to capture

0:00:34 > 0:00:37the dazzling diversity of a young nation,

0:00:37 > 0:00:39built on an ancient land...

0:00:40 > 0:00:44..discovering the secrets, the scenery

0:00:44 > 0:00:45and the stories of its people.

0:00:48 > 0:00:52Joining me on this grand adventure - Professor Tim Flannery,

0:00:52 > 0:00:55a passionate palaeontologist and zoologist

0:00:55 > 0:00:59who also writes extensively about Australia's explorers,

0:00:59 > 0:01:03distinguished marine biologist Professor Emma Johnston.

0:01:03 > 0:01:06A New South Wales Scientist of the Year,

0:01:06 > 0:01:10Emma is an expert on the stunning biodiversity in Australian waters.

0:01:10 > 0:01:14Dr Xanthe Mallett is an anthropologist, scientist

0:01:14 > 0:01:19and keen diver, with a fascination for social and cultural quirks.

0:01:20 > 0:01:24Brendan Moore is a landscape architect who is intrigued

0:01:24 > 0:01:27by the way people interact with their coastal environment.

0:01:27 > 0:01:29And Dr Alice Garner is an historian

0:01:29 > 0:01:33who brings a special knowledge of coastal communities.

0:01:35 > 0:01:38And as for me, well, I get the job of a lifetime,

0:01:38 > 0:01:40because I get to be your guide.

0:01:47 > 0:01:49It's an irresistibly epic journey

0:01:49 > 0:01:51and I can't wait to get started.

0:01:51 > 0:01:54Welcome back to Coast - Coast Australia.

0:02:21 > 0:02:26Our first journey covers Victoria's dramatic Bass Strait coast...

0:02:30 > 0:02:33..taking in the sprawling Gippsland Lakes,

0:02:33 > 0:02:36the southernmost tip of the Australian mainland

0:02:36 > 0:02:39and the jagged edge of the Mornington Peninsula.,

0:02:39 > 0:02:44Tim delves into his own past in a tale of dinosaur discovery.

0:02:44 > 0:02:47The first dinosaur fossil ever found in Australia.

0:02:47 > 0:02:51Alice investigates a great maritime mystery.

0:02:51 > 0:02:54This bay was the site of tragedy once again.

0:02:54 > 0:02:58Brendan checks out a sport that's not plain sailing...

0:02:58 > 0:03:00I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing!

0:03:00 > 0:03:04..while I'm on a journey into the unknown.

0:03:04 > 0:03:07More people have walked on the surface of the moon

0:03:07 > 0:03:09than have ever set foot on Skull Rock.

0:03:09 > 0:03:13But first, we're heading offshore,

0:03:13 > 0:03:1750km east of Victoria's Gippsland coast.

0:03:22 > 0:03:27For many years, the waters of Bass Strait hid a prehistoric secret -

0:03:27 > 0:03:29a buried treasure.

0:03:34 > 0:03:39In 1960, American geologist Lewis G Weeks singled out this area

0:03:39 > 0:03:42as a likely place to find black gold.

0:03:47 > 0:03:51The first big discovery was made in 1965,

0:03:51 > 0:03:55when an exploration company found natural gas

0:03:55 > 0:04:00and just a year later, they discovered the real prize - oil.

0:04:05 > 0:04:08I've been given a very rare opportunity

0:04:08 > 0:04:11to fly the 43km out to see some of the platforms

0:04:11 > 0:04:14and to meet some of the people who live and work on them.

0:04:22 > 0:04:29Until 1966, Australia had been totally reliant on overseas oil.

0:04:29 > 0:04:33Now it had its own supply, right here in Bass Strait.

0:04:36 > 0:04:39The very existence of these platforms out here

0:04:39 > 0:04:42is testament to ground-breaking engineering.

0:04:42 > 0:04:46Invisible beneath us is a complex web of 400 wells.

0:04:46 > 0:04:51And a platform like that one doesn't just drill straight down.

0:04:51 > 0:04:53On the contrary, it can reach out in all directions,

0:04:53 > 0:04:57drawing up on reserves of oil and gas as far away as 6km.

0:05:09 > 0:05:14Steve O'Brien is senior operations supervisor on Tuna Platform.

0:05:14 > 0:05:18Bass Strait's been his workplace for over 40 years.

0:05:18 > 0:05:20It's not a bad office, eh?

0:05:20 > 0:05:24Steve, what type of challenges does the Bass Strait pose

0:05:24 > 0:05:26for oil and gas exploration?

0:05:26 > 0:05:29Well, probably the biggest challenge, Neil, is the weather.

0:05:29 > 0:05:31It's, you know, it can be huge.

0:05:31 > 0:05:34It can go from what we've got out here right now -

0:05:34 > 0:05:38in six hours we could be looking at 45-50 knot winds

0:05:38 > 0:05:40and three-and-a-half, four-metre seas.

0:05:40 > 0:05:44And how's the structure designed to cope with that?

0:05:44 > 0:05:46OK, in two ways.

0:05:46 > 0:05:49One - using piles - deep, long piles -

0:05:49 > 0:05:54we actually pin the structure into the seabed and then secondly,

0:05:54 > 0:05:58the structure itself, the 6,500 tonnes of steel it's made up of

0:05:58 > 0:06:02is actually designed to withstand what we call the hundred-year wave.

0:06:02 > 0:06:05- Which is what? - Which is, statistically,

0:06:05 > 0:06:08the biggest wave we are going to see over a 100-year period,

0:06:08 > 0:06:10and, here, it's a 33-metre wave

0:06:10 > 0:06:12coming in from the south-east.

0:06:12 > 0:06:1533 metres - so, how high are we above the sea, at the moment?

0:06:15 > 0:06:19- Oh, plenty. We're about 50 metres above, so that's OK.- Right.

0:06:19 > 0:06:22If the worst was to happen here, and this thing was, you know,

0:06:22 > 0:06:25washed away, what would it cost to put it back?

0:06:25 > 0:06:27Oh, Neil.

0:06:27 > 0:06:29Little change out of 4.5 billion.

0:06:29 > 0:06:32- So!- Right. OK.

0:06:32 > 0:06:36- We don't want to have to rebuild this platform!- OK. I hear you.

0:06:37 > 0:06:41The figures are enough to leave you reeling.

0:06:41 > 0:06:45But there's another surprise waiting below in the plant room.

0:06:48 > 0:06:51- Right.- So, what is this? Where are we?- Have a look at this.

0:06:51 > 0:06:52Just...have a feel.

0:06:54 > 0:06:56- Oh, it's hot.- Yeah. - Too hot to touch, almost.

0:06:56 > 0:06:58That's the oil coming up from the reservoir.

0:06:58 > 0:07:00That's the temperature it comes up at.

0:07:00 > 0:07:04Just under 200 degrees as it comes to the surface.

0:07:04 > 0:07:07- That's already cooled a bit. - Wow!- Bloody amazing, eh?

0:07:07 > 0:07:10So the oil is hot because of its proximity

0:07:10 > 0:07:12- to the centre of the Earth?- Yes!

0:07:12 > 0:07:14As the heat rises,

0:07:14 > 0:07:17as we go further towards the centre of the Earth,

0:07:17 > 0:07:20and, you know, as I say, we're only down a few thousand feet,

0:07:20 > 0:07:22but it's quite hot there already.

0:07:22 > 0:07:24- That is crazy.- It's massive, eh?

0:07:26 > 0:07:30It takes just four hours to draw the oil from its reservoir,

0:07:30 > 0:07:32nearly two kilometres under the seabed.

0:07:32 > 0:07:37It's amazing to think that the black gold flowing through this pipe

0:07:37 > 0:07:40originated millions of years ago,

0:07:40 > 0:07:44as microscopic plants and animals in prehistoric seas,

0:07:44 > 0:07:46absorbing the sun's energy.

0:07:46 > 0:07:50As the micro-organisms died, they sank to the ocean floor

0:07:50 > 0:07:52and were covered by layers of sediment.

0:07:52 > 0:07:54As millions of years passed,

0:07:54 > 0:07:58incredible pressure and heat transformed them.

0:07:58 > 0:08:01At between 60 and 120 degrees Celsius,

0:08:01 > 0:08:03they became crude oil.

0:08:03 > 0:08:05Higher temperatures turned them to gas.

0:08:09 > 0:08:10At any one time,

0:08:10 > 0:08:14Tuna Platform is home to up to 60 employees,

0:08:14 > 0:08:16from engineers to cooks,

0:08:16 > 0:08:20all doing their bit to make sure the precious oil and gas keep flowing,

0:08:20 > 0:08:2224 hours a day.

0:08:24 > 0:08:28The oil workers aren't the only inhabitants of these platforms.

0:08:28 > 0:08:33These places are incredibly popular with the local seal population.

0:08:33 > 0:08:37So popular, in fact, that builders have to put in special gates

0:08:37 > 0:08:41to stop the seals climbing all the way up to where the workers are.

0:08:52 > 0:08:55Since 1969, Bass Strait has produced

0:08:55 > 0:08:58over eight trillion cubic metres of natural gas

0:08:58 > 0:09:00and four billion barrels of oil.

0:09:01 > 0:09:05A 600km network of pipelines transports the raw materials

0:09:05 > 0:09:08from the seabed to an onshore plant,

0:09:08 > 0:09:11where it's processed and sent off to power the country,

0:09:11 > 0:09:15providing 40% of Australia's East Coast gas needs

0:09:15 > 0:09:18and two-thirds of the country's oil.

0:09:19 > 0:09:22It's a funny feeling, being out here on this platform.

0:09:22 > 0:09:26I'm thinking all the time about... This one and others like it

0:09:26 > 0:09:29have been here in the Bass Strait for the best part of 50 years,

0:09:29 > 0:09:31pumping back gas and oil

0:09:31 > 0:09:36upon which thousands upon thousands of people's lives have depended.

0:09:36 > 0:09:38And, yet, although it's a gargantuan structure,

0:09:38 > 0:09:39and there are others like it,

0:09:39 > 0:09:42when you look at them in this seascape,

0:09:42 > 0:09:45they seem so insignificant, so slight and so frail.

0:09:45 > 0:09:47And you're reminded that, for all we depend on this,

0:09:47 > 0:09:50and for how much human endeavour it represents,

0:09:50 > 0:09:53in the scheme of things, no matter what we do,

0:09:53 > 0:09:54we're still insignificant.

0:10:08 > 0:10:12The next step in our journey takes us back onto terra firma.

0:10:12 > 0:10:15South-east of Melbourne, near Cape Paterson

0:10:15 > 0:10:18and the very Scottish-sounding town of Inverloch,

0:10:18 > 0:10:20lies a distinctive outcrop

0:10:20 > 0:10:22called Eagles Nest.

0:10:28 > 0:10:32From some angles, it resembles the top half of Australia,

0:10:32 > 0:10:34rising from the rock platform.

0:10:35 > 0:10:37More than a century ago,

0:10:37 > 0:10:40Eagles Nest was the site of a landmark discovery,

0:10:40 > 0:10:43a discovery that changed both palaeontology

0:10:43 > 0:10:46and Professor Tim Flannery forever.

0:10:51 > 0:10:54They say that small events can cast long shadows.

0:10:54 > 0:10:57And one such event happened right here on this very rock platform,

0:10:57 > 0:11:00in May 1903.

0:11:00 > 0:11:04The geologist William Ferguson was mapping the Victorian coastline,

0:11:04 > 0:11:05looking for coal.

0:11:05 > 0:11:08But what he found instead was this.

0:11:10 > 0:11:12He doesn't know what it is, at first,

0:11:12 > 0:11:15but it's soon identified as the first dinosaur fossil

0:11:15 > 0:11:17ever found in Australia.

0:11:17 > 0:11:21Experts at the British Museum identified it

0:11:21 > 0:11:23as the toe bone of a carnivorous dinosaur.

0:11:23 > 0:11:27It was later dubbed the "Cape Paterson Claw".

0:11:28 > 0:11:31Ferguson's discovery was long dismissed as a fluke,

0:11:31 > 0:11:35partly because of the theory of continental drift.

0:11:36 > 0:11:38110 million years ago,

0:11:38 > 0:11:41Australia lay 3,000 km further south,

0:11:41 > 0:11:44huddled up against Antarctica.

0:11:44 > 0:11:47It was believed that cold-blooded reptiles

0:11:47 > 0:11:50couldn't survive in such harsh conditions.

0:11:50 > 0:11:54Imagine this land 110 million years ago.

0:11:54 > 0:11:57Back then, it lay deep within the Antarctic Circle.

0:11:57 > 0:12:00And, in the winter, it must have been freezing.

0:12:00 > 0:12:04But, during the summer, there was plenty of lush vegetation.

0:12:04 > 0:12:06And judging from the Cape Paterson claw,

0:12:06 > 0:12:09there were plenty of dinosaurs as well.

0:12:09 > 0:12:12The animal the claw came from was like an allosaurus.

0:12:12 > 0:12:16It was a carnivorous dinosaur, significantly larger than me.

0:12:21 > 0:12:23After William Ferguson,

0:12:23 > 0:12:27it was 75 years before another dinosaur discovery was made.

0:12:29 > 0:12:34In 1978, a young university student and his colleagues had a hunch.

0:12:34 > 0:12:38They came back here in the footsteps of William Ferguson,

0:12:38 > 0:12:41and began searching this rock platform.

0:12:41 > 0:12:44Pretty soon, they'd made not one new discovery,

0:12:44 > 0:12:46but 30.

0:12:46 > 0:12:4830 new dinosaur bones.

0:12:48 > 0:12:50And that student was me.

0:12:54 > 0:12:57But I can't take all the credit.

0:12:57 > 0:13:00It was my old friend and mentor, geologist Rob Glenie,

0:13:00 > 0:13:04who lit the fuse when he showed me William Ferguson's map.

0:13:04 > 0:13:06- That's the map?- Yeah. - That's the spot, see.

0:13:06 > 0:13:09When I saw that, it would have knocked me over with a feather.

0:13:09 > 0:13:13I didn't know, you know, that it had been marked so precisely.

0:13:13 > 0:13:16There was, like, almost an X marks the spot for the treasure,

0:13:16 > 0:13:20was where William Ferguson said, what is it?

0:13:20 > 0:13:23"The tooth of a fish

0:13:23 > 0:13:27"and some fragments and scraps of bones of reptiles..."

0:13:27 > 0:13:30- Yeah.- "..found." It was like X marks the spot.

0:13:30 > 0:13:32When you showed me that and brought me here,

0:13:32 > 0:13:34it really set me off on a different trajectory, you know?

0:13:34 > 0:13:36- A different course.- That's good.

0:13:36 > 0:13:40And we discovered the... rediscovered the site after 75 years.

0:13:40 > 0:13:42Yeah, It was very, very kind of you.

0:13:42 > 0:13:46I took the fossils I'd found to palaeontologist Tom Rich,

0:13:46 > 0:13:49senior curator at the Museum of Victoria.

0:13:49 > 0:13:53Tom, do you remember when I brought you those dinosaur bones first,

0:13:53 > 0:13:57- 36 years ago?- Oh, yes. I remember it. You had a variety of them.

0:13:57 > 0:14:00You had carnivorous dinosaurs and you had herbivorous ones.

0:14:00 > 0:14:02And we gradually worked out what they were.

0:14:02 > 0:14:05But the most important thing about those seven...

0:14:05 > 0:14:08those 30 specimens you found, was it showed us how to find them.

0:14:08 > 0:14:11Because people had been walking over these rocks for 100 years,

0:14:11 > 0:14:14geologists, and had never noticed them.

0:14:14 > 0:14:16Ferguson was a one-off.

0:14:17 > 0:14:20Since our first discoveries proved the existence

0:14:20 > 0:14:22of southern polar dinosaurs,

0:14:22 > 0:14:26thousands of fossils belonging to at least six different dinosaur species

0:14:26 > 0:14:29have been found along this narrow stretch of coast.

0:14:30 > 0:14:34This band of volunteers, called the Dinosaur Dreaming Group,

0:14:34 > 0:14:37still makes discoveries on these platforms.

0:14:37 > 0:14:39Including what looks to me like a vertebra.

0:14:39 > 0:14:43Well, that's amazing because, you know, here we are today, Tom,

0:14:43 > 0:14:46finding a bone, not 50 metres from where

0:14:46 > 0:14:48- William Ferguson found his claw.- Mm.

0:14:48 > 0:14:50And the site's just still yielding fossils.

0:14:54 > 0:14:56There's a saying in palaeontology,

0:14:56 > 0:15:00that the hardest fossil to find is always the first one.

0:15:01 > 0:15:03Without William Ferguson's discovery,

0:15:03 > 0:15:06the world of Australia's polar dinosaurs

0:15:06 > 0:15:08might still be a mystery.

0:15:08 > 0:15:12But, each year, more treasures are uncovered.

0:15:12 > 0:15:16And I can't help feeling that the next great discovery

0:15:16 > 0:15:18is just around the corner.

0:15:26 > 0:15:29Port Phillip is one of the great bays of the world,

0:15:29 > 0:15:34and, for over 150 years, it has also been Australia's busiest port.

0:15:34 > 0:15:38From above, the entrance to Port Phillip seems inviting,

0:15:38 > 0:15:40but the "The Rip", as it's known,

0:15:40 > 0:15:43is one of Australia's most treacherous waterways.

0:15:43 > 0:15:45Riddled with underwater reefs,

0:15:45 > 0:15:48The Rip has claimed over 180 vessels,

0:15:48 > 0:15:50and hundreds of lives.

0:15:50 > 0:15:53As historian Dr Alice Garner discovers,

0:15:53 > 0:15:55one loss was so great it stunned a nation.

0:16:01 > 0:16:03This is Point Nepean.

0:16:03 > 0:16:07For many years, this whole area was a highly restricted military zone.

0:16:07 > 0:16:11And perhaps the world's most picturesque firing range.

0:16:11 > 0:16:13But, half a century ago,

0:16:13 > 0:16:16one civilian was issued a special pass, giving him

0:16:16 > 0:16:19free access to Point Nepean.

0:16:19 > 0:16:24That civilian was Harold Holt, who would later become Prime Minister.

0:16:25 > 0:16:30This peninsular and its rugged beaches were Holt's private playground.

0:16:30 > 0:16:33Even after becoming Prime Minister during January 1966,

0:16:33 > 0:16:36replacing the retiring Sir Robert Menzies,

0:16:36 > 0:16:40Holt took every opportunity to escape the tumult of Canberra.

0:16:40 > 0:16:44Here, he entered the silent world of the ocean.

0:16:44 > 0:16:45Snorkelling, spear fishing

0:16:45 > 0:16:50and exploring the numerous wrecks strewn just off the coast.

0:16:50 > 0:16:53But that intense passion would cost the Prime Minister his life.

0:16:55 > 0:16:57One man who will never forget what happened

0:16:57 > 0:17:03here on Cheviot Beach on December 17 1967 is Alan Stewart.

0:17:03 > 0:17:05Nice to meet you.

0:17:05 > 0:17:08Alan, how is it that you came to be on the beach

0:17:08 > 0:17:10the day that Mr Holt disappeared?

0:17:10 > 0:17:15I happened to be staying with neighbours of the Holts,

0:17:15 > 0:17:17Gillespie family.

0:17:17 > 0:17:21And, after breakfast, Mr Holt came over

0:17:21 > 0:17:25and said he was going to Cheviot to have a swim.

0:17:25 > 0:17:28Asked if we would like to accompany him.

0:17:28 > 0:17:31So I ventured into the water to just above my knees

0:17:31 > 0:17:34and I felt this incredible undertow.

0:17:35 > 0:17:37And I thought, no, this isn't terribly smart,

0:17:37 > 0:17:41it's a bit dangerous, so I retreated back to the beach.

0:17:42 > 0:17:46And then the surf suddenly built up to a real crescendo.

0:17:47 > 0:17:51And it just was a sort of cauldron of white foam.

0:17:52 > 0:17:55And that was the last I saw of him.

0:17:55 > 0:17:56And it was a very sad day.

0:17:59 > 0:18:02Alan raised the alarm, sparking what was then the biggest search

0:18:02 > 0:18:05for an individual in Australian history.

0:18:05 > 0:18:10In the following days, divers battled the boiling surf.

0:18:10 > 0:18:14Here, a young Alan helps authorities, re-enacting the events

0:18:14 > 0:18:17that led to the Prime Minister's disappearance.

0:18:17 > 0:18:20But their efforts were in vain.

0:18:20 > 0:18:22No trace of Harold Holt was ever found.

0:18:32 > 0:18:37And what is it like for you to come back to Cheviot Beach after all this time?

0:18:37 > 0:18:39I suppose a bit spooky,

0:18:39 > 0:18:43but I don't sort of look at the beach and remember the tragic day.

0:18:45 > 0:18:49I come here and just admire this magnificent coastline

0:18:49 > 0:18:51and this particular beach, here.

0:19:01 > 0:19:05A glance through history tells us that leaders who die in office are

0:19:05 > 0:19:10usually the victims of an assassin's bullet or illness or old age.

0:19:10 > 0:19:13And I think it says something about Australia

0:19:13 > 0:19:17that we lost our Prime Minister, not because of rebellion or conspiracy,

0:19:17 > 0:19:19but because of his love for the ocean.

0:19:36 > 0:19:39From Cheviot Beach, we're heading east around the bottom

0:19:39 > 0:19:42of the Mornington peninsular, to Phillip Island.

0:19:44 > 0:19:48It's 10,000 hectares of flat, mostly empty countryside.

0:19:50 > 0:19:54Over the years, many people moved here to live a life of serenity,

0:19:54 > 0:19:57surrounded by the local wildlife.

0:19:57 > 0:20:01But, for a few, their Shangri-La turned out to be a mirage.

0:20:03 > 0:20:07This spectacular and dramatic bit of coastline

0:20:07 > 0:20:11is within easy reach of Melbourne. Perfect for a weekend getaway.

0:20:11 > 0:20:13It's surely valuable real estate,

0:20:13 > 0:20:15so you would expect a holiday resort,

0:20:15 > 0:20:18some houses, even just some shacks.

0:20:18 > 0:20:20The fact is, there's nothing to see.

0:20:20 > 0:20:22But there used to be a town here.

0:20:22 > 0:20:27It was called Summerlands. Houses were spread along this roadside.

0:20:27 > 0:20:30But there's nothing there now but abandoned roads

0:20:30 > 0:20:32and signposts to nowhere.

0:20:32 > 0:20:37So what happened here? How come an entire town has vanished?

0:20:39 > 0:20:42Elizabeth Lundahl Hegedus called Summerlands home

0:20:42 > 0:20:45for more than a quarter of a century.

0:20:45 > 0:20:46- How are you?- Hello.

0:20:46 > 0:20:50Now, correct me if I'm wrong, you used to live here.

0:20:50 > 0:20:55Yes, just over there. Just behind those bushes over there.

0:20:55 > 0:20:57Can you show me what your house used to look like?

0:20:57 > 0:21:01Yes, I do have a photo in my pocket here.

0:21:01 > 0:21:03So, we're just in the back garden?

0:21:03 > 0:21:06We're just behind the house, actually.

0:21:06 > 0:21:08When Elizabeth first came here in the 1960s,

0:21:08 > 0:21:13Phillip Island real estate was booming. Land was cheap.

0:21:13 > 0:21:15Views were spectacular.

0:21:15 > 0:21:21More than 180 houses sprouted, with a population of around 2,000 people.

0:21:21 > 0:21:23There was just one problem.

0:21:23 > 0:21:26This part of the island was already inhabited.

0:21:27 > 0:21:30Little penguins, or fairy penguins,

0:21:30 > 0:21:32are the smallest of the penguin species.

0:21:32 > 0:21:34For thousands of years,

0:21:34 > 0:21:36these guys have called Phillip Island home.

0:21:36 > 0:21:39And when the residents of Summerlands Estate moved in,

0:21:39 > 0:21:41the penguins didn't move out.

0:21:43 > 0:21:47Tell me how you felt about the penguins, the notorious penguins?

0:21:47 > 0:21:51- It was lovely. I loved having them around.- Why?- I miss them terribly.

0:21:51 > 0:21:52Why did you love them?

0:21:52 > 0:21:54Oh, just nice.

0:21:54 > 0:21:57They're, you know, pets that you don't have to worry about!

0:21:57 > 0:22:00Just, it was just nice having them there.

0:22:00 > 0:22:04The penguins made nests under verandas and gardens,

0:22:04 > 0:22:05even under cars.

0:22:05 > 0:22:08They became squawking squatters.

0:22:08 > 0:22:11What is the noise that the penguins make?

0:22:11 > 0:22:12They have two different calls,

0:22:12 > 0:22:15but the most common noise that they make is...

0:22:15 > 0:22:19IRRITATING SQUAWKING

0:22:20 > 0:22:22That could get on a person's nerves!

0:22:22 > 0:22:24- Especially when it goes on all night!- Yeah.

0:22:27 > 0:22:28Despite the racket,

0:22:28 > 0:22:32for many years, people and penguins seemed to coexist.

0:22:40 > 0:22:43So, why was everyone forced to leave?

0:22:43 > 0:22:47Well, it was the result of a patient crusade by just one man.

0:22:49 > 0:22:50Hi, Peter.

0:22:50 > 0:22:52Dr Peter Dann is one of the world's

0:22:52 > 0:22:54foremost authorities on the little penguin.

0:22:54 > 0:22:57Back in 1980, he came to Phillip Island

0:22:57 > 0:23:00to study the local penguin population.

0:23:00 > 0:23:02How much trouble were the penguins in?

0:23:02 > 0:23:04The penguins were in a great deal of trouble.

0:23:04 > 0:23:07I estimated that there would be none

0:23:07 > 0:23:13by 1997. So, the population was just in freefall.

0:23:13 > 0:23:15And most of the causes for that

0:23:15 > 0:23:19were things associated with the housing estate.

0:23:19 > 0:23:24Penguins were being killed by people's dogs, particularly at night.

0:23:24 > 0:23:26Penguins were being run over by cars on the roads.

0:23:26 > 0:23:28Was there a moment where you thought,

0:23:28 > 0:23:32"There's nothing else for it, the penguins have to be left alone

0:23:32 > 0:23:34"and the people will have to go."

0:23:34 > 0:23:38Yes, and it came to a head, if you like,

0:23:38 > 0:23:42when we had an extreme event of vandalism where someone

0:23:42 > 0:23:45drove around trying to run over as many penguins as they could,

0:23:45 > 0:23:47and they killed 54 penguins.

0:23:47 > 0:23:50So we put them in a pile, the bodies of the penguins,

0:23:50 > 0:23:53and the media came and that was a great moment

0:23:53 > 0:23:56for engaging the public concern about penguins

0:23:56 > 0:24:00and what we really wanted to happen in this particular place.

0:24:03 > 0:24:08In 1985, at Peter's urging, the Victorian state government made

0:24:08 > 0:24:13an extraordinary decision to buy back all the houses at Summerlands.

0:24:14 > 0:24:18Over the next 25 years, the town gradually disappeared.

0:24:19 > 0:24:23Every last building was either transported to the mainland

0:24:23 > 0:24:24or demolished.

0:24:24 > 0:24:28I have to say, it's an extreme solution that you came to.

0:24:28 > 0:24:32That's right. I've heard of people having to move where they live

0:24:32 > 0:24:35for dams or military purposes.

0:24:35 > 0:24:39But, in this case, I think it's the only example in the world

0:24:39 > 0:24:43where a whole town's been moved for the sake of wildlife conservation.

0:24:43 > 0:24:45And it's worked.

0:24:45 > 0:24:46Since Summerlands vanished,

0:24:46 > 0:24:50the number of breeding birds has trebled.

0:24:50 > 0:24:51- It's blue.- It is.

0:24:51 > 0:24:53I was expecting all black.

0:24:53 > 0:24:54PENGUIN SQUAWKS

0:24:54 > 0:24:56- He doesn't approve.- No.

0:24:56 > 0:24:59This is a male, and it's just moulted,

0:24:59 > 0:25:05so it's got this beautiful blue plumage and white front.

0:25:05 > 0:25:09- He's almost translucent. - He is, yes.- Gorgeous.

0:25:09 > 0:25:14Elizabeth's home was one of the last to go, in 2010.

0:25:14 > 0:25:19How do you feel now, when you stand here in this wild landscape?

0:25:19 > 0:25:24- Do you get a pang of regret?- Yes. I don't like coming here, actually.

0:25:24 > 0:25:28It's a little bit upsetting because I love this part of the island.

0:25:28 > 0:25:30And it's more or less off-limits now.

0:25:30 > 0:25:33So, yes, I am sad because I had to leave.

0:25:35 > 0:25:39But the penguins were here first, thousands and thousands of years

0:25:39 > 0:25:42before we ever came, so it's fair, I think.

0:25:49 > 0:25:51People may no longer live in Summerlands,

0:25:51 > 0:25:54but they still flock here every evening at sunset

0:25:54 > 0:25:57to watch what has become known as the Penguin Parade.

0:25:57 > 0:26:01After a hard day's fishing out at sea, they return onto the beach

0:26:01 > 0:26:04and waddle up through the dunes to their burrows on the peninsular.

0:26:09 > 0:26:13They're so nervous about leaving the safety of the dark water

0:26:13 > 0:26:16and making this run across the bright sand, so you can see,

0:26:16 > 0:26:18they stay together in a group and it looks as if

0:26:18 > 0:26:21they're all checking out the area to see if there's any predators,

0:26:21 > 0:26:24birds of prey, anything that might come and pick one of them off.

0:26:26 > 0:26:30But they're so smartly dressed. They look for all the world like,

0:26:30 > 0:26:32it's like a wee gaggle of exhausted businessmen

0:26:32 > 0:26:36coming off the last train into the station after a stressful day.

0:26:38 > 0:26:43Obviously, you have to sympathise with people who were forced to move,

0:26:43 > 0:26:46who didn't want to go, but who ended up having to.

0:26:46 > 0:26:49But watching this, watching these little guys make their way

0:26:49 > 0:26:52up the beach, I'm struck by one thing more than anything else.

0:26:52 > 0:26:56And it's that this will have played out for thousands upon thousands

0:26:56 > 0:27:00of years before there were ever any human beings here,

0:27:00 > 0:27:04and hopefully, with us finally out of the way, this will

0:27:04 > 0:27:08continue to play out for hundreds and thousands of years to come.

0:27:28 > 0:27:32Three hours south-east of Melbourne, Wilsons Promontory

0:27:32 > 0:27:35is the southernmost tip of the Australian mainland.

0:27:35 > 0:27:39It's not for nothing that this part of Victoria is called

0:27:39 > 0:27:40the Rocky Coast.

0:27:40 > 0:27:43The shore is peppered with dramatic boulders,

0:27:43 > 0:27:47their surfaces worn smooth by aeons of exposure.

0:27:49 > 0:27:51Just offshore from here,

0:27:51 > 0:27:57huge mounds of 380 million-year-old granite rise up out of the sea.

0:27:57 > 0:27:59The most tantalising of all of them is that one.

0:27:59 > 0:28:04Officially called Cleft Island, its local name, Skull Rock,

0:28:04 > 0:28:06only adds to its allure.

0:28:06 > 0:28:08It's just 5km off the coastline

0:28:08 > 0:28:12and sometimes it seems close enough to touch,

0:28:12 > 0:28:15but in fact it's virtually inaccessible.

0:28:22 > 0:28:26Many thousands of years ago, when the sea level was much lower,

0:28:26 > 0:28:28these islands formed a land bridge

0:28:28 > 0:28:33stretching from Victoria all the way to north-eastern Tasmania.

0:28:34 > 0:28:37But, for at least 18,000 years, Skull Rock

0:28:37 > 0:28:41and its fellow islands have sat in splendid isolation.

0:28:43 > 0:28:47- Hi, guys.- Hello, Neil.- Looking forward to it!- How you doing?

0:28:47 > 0:28:51I'm joining two scientists from Melbourne Museum, Patrick Honan

0:28:51 > 0:28:56and Dr Mark Norman, on the first scientific expedition to Skull Rock.

0:29:16 > 0:29:19Taking up nearly one whole side of the island,

0:29:19 > 0:29:22a massive cavern stares blankly like an empty eye socket.

0:29:28 > 0:29:30Although Skull Rock is impressive from land,

0:29:30 > 0:29:33the way it looms on the horizon, it's only when you're out here

0:29:33 > 0:29:35that you get a real sense of its scale.

0:29:35 > 0:29:38Look into that gaping maw, you feel as if you could fit in there

0:29:38 > 0:29:40St Paul's Cathedral or the Sydney Opera House.

0:30:01 > 0:30:03Little bit tricky, this thing.

0:30:11 > 0:30:12That'll work.

0:30:21 > 0:30:24More people have walked on the surface of the moon

0:30:24 > 0:30:28than have ever set foot on Skull Rock, as far as we know.

0:30:28 > 0:30:32That's one small step for a man, one giant leap for Coast Australia.

0:30:38 > 0:30:42For a non-scientist like me, can you explain why

0:30:42 > 0:30:46it's so special to arrive on a place like Skull Rock?

0:30:46 > 0:30:47This place has got it all.

0:30:47 > 0:30:51Islands are little microcosms of evolution and isolation,

0:30:51 > 0:30:53so they're really special places, anyway.

0:30:53 > 0:30:57Caves are amazing places for animals in the nooks and crannies.

0:30:57 > 0:30:59Put the two together, isolate it from the mainland

0:30:59 > 0:31:02for 18,000 years and it's just, you know, it's heaven.

0:31:02 > 0:31:05It's kind of Lost Valley of the Dinosaurs stuff.

0:31:05 > 0:31:08The big question - is there life on this rock?

0:31:08 > 0:31:10And, if so, what kind?

0:31:10 > 0:31:12There's one down there.

0:31:12 > 0:31:14- Oh, you got one?- Yeah.

0:31:14 > 0:31:17Before long, we're closing in on one of the locals.

0:31:21 > 0:31:22I've got him by the tail.

0:31:23 > 0:31:24Got the back legs. Got him.

0:31:24 > 0:31:27Wow! Well done.

0:31:27 > 0:31:30A bona-fide Skull Rock skink.

0:31:30 > 0:31:32Look at that, that's the first time

0:31:32 > 0:31:36human eyes have gazed upon this creature

0:31:36 > 0:31:40for maybe tens of thousands of years. Think of that.

0:31:40 > 0:31:44Before there was any civilisation or any empires or kingdoms.

0:31:44 > 0:31:45There he is.

0:31:45 > 0:31:47He looks quite proud, actually.

0:31:49 > 0:31:52He might even be one of a whole new species.

0:31:52 > 0:31:55The way they court each other, the way they display to each other,

0:31:55 > 0:31:58the colour patterns they use, has that drifted away

0:31:58 > 0:32:01from what the rest of Australia's populations have been doing.

0:32:04 > 0:32:07I'm wondering what other treasures might be waiting

0:32:07 > 0:32:10down below in that cave.

0:32:10 > 0:32:11There's only one way to find out.

0:32:24 > 0:32:28I hope this looks as intimidating to you as it looks to me.

0:32:28 > 0:32:30I hope you're getting the full effect.

0:32:30 > 0:32:32That's a sheer drop over that lip,

0:32:32 > 0:32:35straight down into the unforgiving waters of Bass Strait.

0:32:47 > 0:32:48Into the bushes...

0:32:53 > 0:32:55Oh, yes, I see the nature of the problem.

0:32:55 > 0:32:57It's a vertical drop.

0:33:04 > 0:33:08The cave hasn't always been a feature of Skull Rock.

0:33:08 > 0:33:11It formed millions of years ago when the sea level was much higher.

0:33:14 > 0:33:17Waves hammered against weak parts of the granite face

0:33:17 > 0:33:20until they eventually gave way.

0:33:20 > 0:33:24Over millennia, the ocean gouged out this spectacular cavern.

0:33:38 > 0:33:40This might be...

0:33:40 > 0:33:42No, this is...

0:33:42 > 0:33:45the most special place I've ever seen.

0:33:46 > 0:33:49This is a glimpse of how the world used to look.

0:33:51 > 0:33:53The cave's 130 metres wide

0:33:53 > 0:33:56and 60 metres deep.

0:33:56 > 0:33:58The roof, soaring 50 metres overhead,

0:33:58 > 0:34:00is like a stone wave,

0:34:00 > 0:34:02poised to break over us.

0:34:08 > 0:34:12At the rear we make an unexpected discovery.

0:34:12 > 0:34:13It looks like salt.

0:34:13 > 0:34:16So how does that form here?

0:34:16 > 0:34:19What's happened is the sea spray from huge seas,

0:34:19 > 0:34:21over hundreds of thousands of years,

0:34:21 > 0:34:23has dried in here, fallen to the ground

0:34:23 > 0:34:26and it's never been washed away by the rain.

0:34:26 > 0:34:30The salt has been here so long and is packed so hard

0:34:30 > 0:34:33Patrick can't even take a core sample for study.

0:34:33 > 0:34:36For now, whatever lies beneath must remain a mystery.

0:34:38 > 0:34:41But just a few metres away, lying out in the open,

0:34:41 > 0:34:43a truly remarkable find.

0:34:43 > 0:34:44It's iron.

0:34:50 > 0:34:51That...

0:34:53 > 0:34:55..I think has been shot out of a gun.

0:34:55 > 0:34:58You think that's an eroded cannonball, do you?

0:34:59 > 0:35:03I'm not sure where else pure iron would come onto this rock

0:35:03 > 0:35:05if people can't climb here.

0:35:05 > 0:35:07Wow!

0:35:07 > 0:35:09- So it's some passing... - There's something in it.- Yeah.

0:35:09 > 0:35:12- Something green.- That's copper alloy.

0:35:13 > 0:35:15That could be the outer casing.

0:35:15 > 0:35:20Some passing warship has been using the cave as a target.

0:35:20 > 0:35:22Some very insensitive human being

0:35:22 > 0:35:24has decided to shoot into the eye of Skull Rock.

0:35:24 > 0:35:26Is there any record of when?

0:35:26 > 0:35:28You know, what century the ships are doing this?

0:35:28 > 0:35:31It could be as early as mid-1800s.

0:35:34 > 0:35:38Our brief visit's thrown up more questions than answers.

0:35:38 > 0:35:42But in a place so isolated, so remote and unexplored,

0:35:42 > 0:35:45we can only ever hope to scratch the surface.

0:35:47 > 0:35:49I'm sure my companions don't agree

0:35:49 > 0:35:52but there's a wee part of me that hopes Skull Rock

0:35:52 > 0:35:54never surrenders all of its secrets.

0:36:12 > 0:36:15Humans have always felt compelled to risk the elements

0:36:15 > 0:36:16and run with the wind.

0:36:19 > 0:36:24At Waratah Bay, about 190 kilometres south-east of Melbourne,

0:36:24 > 0:36:26Brendan Moar has found some seadogs

0:36:26 > 0:36:30who definitely have the wind in their sails.

0:36:30 > 0:36:31And they're not even on the water.

0:36:33 > 0:36:35The idea of harnessing wind on land

0:36:35 > 0:36:37has been around for hundreds of years.

0:36:37 > 0:36:39Modern land yachting has largely been about

0:36:39 > 0:36:44achieving straight line speeds on dry lake beds or coastal sands.

0:36:44 > 0:36:49But in 1999 the game totally changed with the invention of the blokart.

0:36:49 > 0:36:52This new design greatly improved manoeuvrability,

0:36:52 > 0:36:55allowing tacking, veering and zigzagging at great speed.

0:36:57 > 0:37:00At first glance there doesn't seem to be much to a blokart.

0:37:00 > 0:37:03Three wheels, a lightweight steel frame

0:37:03 > 0:37:06and a standard windsurfing sail.

0:37:06 > 0:37:09Put them together, though, and the result is

0:37:09 > 0:37:11state-of-the-art land sailing.

0:37:14 > 0:37:17Oh!

0:37:17 > 0:37:21Developed in New Zealand, the blokart's compact size and speed

0:37:21 > 0:37:24has hooked long-time sailors like Russell Whitehouse.

0:37:25 > 0:37:27So how did you get into this?

0:37:27 > 0:37:29Well, I've been sailing all my life.

0:37:29 > 0:37:31I had 40 years of off-the-beach boats

0:37:31 > 0:37:35and dinghies and catamarans, had a trailer sailer,

0:37:35 > 0:37:37got rid of that and saw this at a show one day

0:37:37 > 0:37:39and I got in it and I was hooked.

0:37:41 > 0:37:46The blokart's speed record is a sizzling 98 kilometres an hour.

0:37:46 > 0:37:49But even zipping along at half that speed,

0:37:49 > 0:37:50gets the adrenaline pumping.

0:37:52 > 0:37:54Always keep moving...

0:37:54 > 0:37:57Before I strap in, though, club president Tim Vance

0:37:57 > 0:38:01runs me through what HE calls a few simple instructions.

0:38:01 > 0:38:05When you're going up, hold on tight.

0:38:05 > 0:38:07Going upwind, pull the sail along.

0:38:07 > 0:38:10If you're going too fast, and the wheel starts lifting,

0:38:10 > 0:38:12let go of the rope.

0:38:12 > 0:38:16- OK?- Right. - You've got the jist of it?

0:38:16 > 0:38:18- Erm...- He'll be right.

0:38:18 > 0:38:19Well, we'll find out, I guess.

0:38:21 > 0:38:23I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing.

0:38:27 > 0:38:28These guys seem confident.

0:38:28 > 0:38:30I wish I could share that.

0:38:30 > 0:38:32Right-ho, gentlemen and Brendan.

0:38:32 > 0:38:34Is everybody ready?

0:38:35 > 0:38:38Three...two...one...

0:38:38 > 0:38:39Go!

0:38:39 > 0:38:42SEDATE MUSIC PLAYS

0:38:48 > 0:38:50Now, going in a straight line is OK,

0:38:50 > 0:38:52but as soon as I try to tack...

0:38:55 > 0:38:57Oh!

0:39:00 > 0:39:02Kerching! Kerching!

0:39:04 > 0:39:07Luckily the only thing bruised is my ego.

0:39:11 > 0:39:14I don't think the speed record's in any danger.

0:39:15 > 0:39:18But when the wind catches that sail,

0:39:18 > 0:39:20I can see why they're so excited.

0:39:23 > 0:39:25CROWD APPLAUDS

0:39:29 > 0:39:31300 kilometres east of Melbourne,

0:39:31 > 0:39:36beyond the deserted and seemingly endless sands of Ninety Mile Beach,

0:39:36 > 0:39:38by the Gippsland Lakes,

0:39:38 > 0:39:41Australia's largest system of inland waterways.

0:39:41 > 0:39:44This series of lakes, marshes and lagoons

0:39:44 > 0:39:46covers over 600 square kilometres.

0:39:52 > 0:39:57These waters have long been a haven for Melbournites seeking an escape.

0:39:57 > 0:40:01But they're not the only ones drawn to this coastal paradise.

0:40:01 > 0:40:04Marine biologist Professor Emma Johnston

0:40:04 > 0:40:08is on the trail of a unique and previously unidentified species.

0:40:09 > 0:40:12Finding a new species of large marine mammal

0:40:12 > 0:40:15is an extremely rare achievement.

0:40:15 > 0:40:17That's what happened here in this well-populated area

0:40:17 > 0:40:19just a couple of years ago.

0:40:19 > 0:40:23I'm here to meet the scientist who made this discovery of a lifetime.

0:40:25 > 0:40:29In 2006, marine biologist Dr Kate Charlton-Robb

0:40:29 > 0:40:33spotted something unusual in these waters.

0:40:33 > 0:40:36And, like any good scientific sleuth,

0:40:36 > 0:40:38stated investigating.

0:40:48 > 0:40:52It took five years of painstaking study

0:40:52 > 0:40:56but in 2011 Kate's suspicions were finally confirmed.

0:41:00 > 0:41:02So, Kate, what did you discover?

0:41:02 > 0:41:06Well, we had the amazing discovery of a brand-new dolphin species.

0:41:06 > 0:41:08- Is that incredibly rare? - It is quite rare.

0:41:08 > 0:41:11It's only happened three times since the late 1800s

0:41:11 > 0:41:14that a new dolphin species has been formally described.

0:41:16 > 0:41:20The new species' official title is Tursiops australis.

0:41:21 > 0:41:23It's common name is the Burrunan dolphin.

0:41:23 > 0:41:26Burrunan being a local Gippsland aboriginal word

0:41:26 > 0:41:29meaning large fish of the porpoise kind.

0:41:29 > 0:41:35And its existence took Kate, and the world of marine biology, by surprise.

0:41:35 > 0:41:39Basically, we'd noticed by looking at the dolphin

0:41:39 > 0:41:40that they are a bit of a mishmash

0:41:40 > 0:41:43between the two other bottlenose dolphin species -

0:41:43 > 0:41:47the Common bottlenose dolphin and the Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin.

0:41:47 > 0:41:50Essentially what we were trying to do was just figure out

0:41:50 > 0:41:53which of the two these guys were.

0:41:53 > 0:41:57But the dolphin's DNA didn't match either bottlenose species.

0:41:57 > 0:42:01So Kate investigated further and found other crucial differences

0:42:01 > 0:42:03inside the mammal's skull.

0:42:03 > 0:42:07So this is the new species. What are the differences?

0:42:07 > 0:42:09So, you can sort of see, as a general thing,

0:42:09 > 0:42:13that the Common bottlenose dolphin is significantly larger

0:42:13 > 0:42:16than australis, the new species here.

0:42:16 > 0:42:20There are also really distinctive features that are quite different,

0:42:20 > 0:42:22in terms of qualitative things.

0:42:22 > 0:42:27We have this quite pinched rostrum here, whereas this is quite flat.

0:42:27 > 0:42:31That's a very big difference there. It's quite pinched up the top.

0:42:31 > 0:42:36So you did a lot of very fine measurements on a lot of skulls?

0:42:36 > 0:42:39Yeah, we did quite a number of different measures -

0:42:39 > 0:42:42so tooth counts, the length of the orbits -

0:42:42 > 0:42:44a whole bunch of different measures.

0:42:48 > 0:42:51I'm desperate to see Kate's dolphin

0:42:51 > 0:42:56but finding them in 600 square kilometres of lakes is not easy.

0:42:56 > 0:42:59And there's another reason they're difficult to spot -

0:42:59 > 0:43:02the Burrunan dolphin population is tiny.

0:43:02 > 0:43:05Just 50 live here in the Gippsland Lakes.

0:43:05 > 0:43:08100 live in nearby Port Phillip Bay

0:43:08 > 0:43:12and a small number call the waters off Tasmania home.

0:43:12 > 0:43:14But today our persistence pays off.

0:43:14 > 0:43:16Yeah. I can see them.

0:43:16 > 0:43:20I get my first glimpse of a whole new species.

0:43:24 > 0:43:27So here we go, we found them, they are all around.

0:43:27 > 0:43:30There are some coming over here. There's a calf over there.

0:43:30 > 0:43:31It's just wonderful.

0:43:31 > 0:43:35Four are tightly grouped over here, another few here, some on the bow.

0:43:35 > 0:43:38- There we go.- Oh! Look at those!

0:43:38 > 0:43:40Coming across to the bow.

0:43:40 > 0:43:42So beautiful.

0:43:43 > 0:43:49The perilously small numbers mean the new species is already under threat.

0:43:49 > 0:43:53But Kate hopes her ongoing research will help bring her dolphin

0:43:53 > 0:43:55back from the brink.

0:43:59 > 0:44:04From a newly discovered species to something altogether more retro.

0:44:04 > 0:44:07The final chapter in our East Victorian journey

0:44:07 > 0:44:09begins at a place called Tyabb,

0:44:09 > 0:44:11on the Mornington Peninsula,

0:44:11 > 0:44:14with a woman who knows this coastline better than anyone,

0:44:14 > 0:44:16at least from the air.

0:44:19 > 0:44:24Not everyone on this spectacular stretch of coastline is interested in boats.

0:44:24 > 0:44:27For some, the passion is all about another kind of craft.

0:44:37 > 0:44:40Look at this. You might think it's a museum, but it's not.

0:44:40 > 0:44:42These things are very much alive.

0:44:43 > 0:44:47It's like a collection of wonderful toys, they are so glamorous.

0:44:47 > 0:44:50In fact, these are predators.

0:44:50 > 0:44:52These are fighter aircraft or,

0:44:52 > 0:44:55as they are called in the aviation world - warbirds.

0:45:03 > 0:45:05Not only is their plumage spectacular,

0:45:05 > 0:45:08each one of these magnificent birds is airworthy,

0:45:08 > 0:45:11ready to take to the sky at a moment's notice

0:45:11 > 0:45:14and they all belong to one remarkable woman,

0:45:14 > 0:45:17aviatrix and avid collector, Judy Pay.

0:45:20 > 0:45:23Hi, Judy. How are you doing?

0:45:23 > 0:45:25Welcome to Tyabb.

0:45:25 > 0:45:28- Thank you. Do you fly these? - Yes, yes.

0:45:28 > 0:45:30This is one of my favourites.

0:45:30 > 0:45:35It's a 1940s old English biplane

0:45:35 > 0:45:37with no brakes, no steering.

0:45:37 > 0:45:39It's just really wind in the wires. Stick and rudder.

0:45:39 > 0:45:42- Stick and rudder stuff.- Yeah. - What is it called?

0:45:42 > 0:45:44This is a Tiger Moth, a de Havilland Tiger Moth.

0:45:44 > 0:45:48The Tiger Moth was Judy's first classic craft.

0:45:48 > 0:45:50Now she owns seven warbirds.

0:45:52 > 0:45:56Now, Judy might not like to admit it, but there are others here

0:45:56 > 0:45:59who say this could be the pride of the fleet.

0:45:59 > 0:46:03This is a single-engine, single-seater P-40 Curtiss Warhawk,

0:46:03 > 0:46:07or Kittyhawk, if you come from my part of the world.

0:46:07 > 0:46:11She looks better than new but it took a lot of love and care

0:46:11 > 0:46:15by Judy and the rest of the team to bring this baby back to life.

0:46:16 > 0:46:19The Kittyhawk crashed on an island in Vanuatu

0:46:19 > 0:46:24during World War II where it lay forgotten for nearly 50 years.

0:46:24 > 0:46:26Until Judy got wind of it, that is.

0:46:28 > 0:46:32What condition was this Kittyhawk in when you first encountered her?

0:46:32 > 0:46:37I first encountered her on the island in Vanuatu.

0:46:37 > 0:46:38It crashed pretty much on a hillside

0:46:38 > 0:46:42but fortunately a French farmer, it was on his land,

0:46:42 > 0:46:45he put it onto some drums and sprayed it with diesel,

0:46:45 > 0:46:49which actually preserved it, quite amazingly.

0:46:49 > 0:46:53What little was there was in reasonably good condition.

0:46:53 > 0:46:56Judy salvaged the wreck and for the next 20 years

0:46:56 > 0:47:01she and her team worked to restore this warbird to its former glory.

0:47:01 > 0:47:04This is a one of a kind.

0:47:04 > 0:47:07This is the only genuine flying F model Kittyhawk

0:47:07 > 0:47:09in the world at the moment.

0:47:09 > 0:47:12It's very, very rare and very beautiful.

0:47:21 > 0:47:23You know how these stories go, it wouldn't be complete

0:47:23 > 0:47:26without me going up in one of these wonderful toys.

0:47:26 > 0:47:30This is it, it's a North American T-6 Texan, also known as a Harvard.

0:47:30 > 0:47:33During World War II these were like flying classrooms,

0:47:33 > 0:47:36hundreds of thousands of Allied pilots learned to fly

0:47:36 > 0:47:38in aircraft just like this one.

0:47:48 > 0:47:53What a way to see this magnificent Victorian coastline one last time.

0:48:00 > 0:48:03I'm betting those pilots training during the war

0:48:03 > 0:48:05never had a view like this.

0:48:05 > 0:48:09It is a bit special when you go over the water, isn't it?

0:48:09 > 0:48:12It is beautiful here, it's a lovely place to fly.

0:48:18 > 0:48:20This coastline has been through many changes

0:48:20 > 0:48:22and has revealed many treasures.

0:48:23 > 0:48:26Just as the aircraft that Judy maintains

0:48:26 > 0:48:30are the product of slow, painstaking, constant work,

0:48:30 > 0:48:33so the wind and the waves and the weather here

0:48:33 > 0:48:38are always working gradually to renew and to reshape this landscape.

0:48:38 > 0:48:41And, of course, the people who cling to its edge.

0:48:48 > 0:48:52Next time, we're off to South Australia's limestone coast.

0:48:52 > 0:48:55Emma dives deep into ancient caves...

0:48:55 > 0:48:59So we just swum through a 5-million-year-old Gothic cathedral.

0:48:59 > 0:49:02Tim has a close encounter...

0:49:02 > 0:49:05For the Europeans of 200 years ago, this coastline here

0:49:05 > 0:49:08was about as unknown as the dark side of the moon.

0:49:08 > 0:49:11Alice gets a taste of the gold rush.

0:49:11 > 0:49:13This is California all over again.

0:49:13 > 0:49:17While I take to the air to search and destroy.

0:49:17 > 0:49:19Can we go and attack a submarine now?

0:49:19 > 0:49:20PILOT CHUCKLES