Norway: Lillesand to Svalbard

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0:00:07 > 0:00:10Norway. The longest coastline in Europe.

0:00:12 > 0:00:15Mighty fjords carved by great ice sheets.

0:00:15 > 0:00:19It's a landscape written into the blood of the British Isles.

0:00:19 > 0:00:21Because we share a common heritage -

0:00:21 > 0:00:24brought across the sea by Viking boatmen.

0:00:26 > 0:00:31Now, it's British yachtsmen who love to explore Norway's coast.

0:00:31 > 0:00:33They come year in and year out,

0:00:33 > 0:00:37but for us, this a rare chance to meet our northern neighbours.

0:00:37 > 0:00:41In Norway, I'm joined by my usual Coast companions.

0:00:41 > 0:00:44There's a slot...

0:00:44 > 0:00:49Mark Horton is in search of the craft that sped the Vikings to our shores.

0:00:49 > 0:00:53- And this is a method that can't have changed for a thousand years.- No.

0:00:53 > 0:00:58Alice Roberts meets the Norwegians keeping us warm in winter.

0:00:58 > 0:00:59So this is it!

0:00:59 > 0:01:04- I can hear it.- This is actually the gas you're hearing - gas going to UK.

0:01:04 > 0:01:07Nick Crane explores the British connections

0:01:07 > 0:01:10to the most beautiful fjord in Norway.

0:01:10 > 0:01:14As an amateur geographer, this is one of the most exciting days of my life!

0:01:14 > 0:01:17And I travel high into the Arctic Circle,

0:01:17 > 0:01:22where the Vikings launched themselves southwards - towards Britain.

0:01:24 > 0:01:28Our story continues beyond our coast.

0:01:53 > 0:01:57This time, we're travelling a huge distance,

0:01:57 > 0:02:00along the shore of an entire country -

0:02:00 > 0:02:03one that's long, thin and mostly coastline.

0:02:10 > 0:02:14Norway's coast is just so much bigger than you imagine.

0:02:14 > 0:02:20If you followed all the ins and outs of every bay and majestic fjord,

0:02:20 > 0:02:22it's a trip of over 13,000 miles -

0:02:22 > 0:02:26that's over halfway around the world.

0:02:28 > 0:02:29These magnificent fjords

0:02:29 > 0:02:33are overlooked by huge mountains with vertiginous cliffs.

0:02:35 > 0:02:40And at its narrowest, Norway is just three and a half miles wide.

0:02:44 > 0:02:46To cope with their challenging coastline,

0:02:46 > 0:02:50the Norwegians have been constantly inventive,

0:02:50 > 0:02:52building roads across the sea,

0:02:52 > 0:02:56making their homes on tiny islands,

0:02:56 > 0:03:02and harvesting their natural resources for food and energy.

0:03:02 > 0:03:04On our journey, we want to discover

0:03:04 > 0:03:09what tips we in Britain can get about living on our coast,

0:03:09 > 0:03:13and to find out how our two countries have a shared history,

0:03:13 > 0:03:18reaching out in friendship and in wartime across the North Sea.

0:03:20 > 0:03:23We're travelling up to the Lofoten Islands,

0:03:23 > 0:03:25deep into the Arctic Circle.

0:03:25 > 0:03:29On the way, we'll pop up to polar bear country - Svalbard.

0:03:29 > 0:03:33But our starting point it Lillesand, in the south.

0:03:39 > 0:03:42This quiet, southern coastline is popular with Norwegians for summer holidays.

0:03:42 > 0:03:46And it's also a desirable destination for yachting folk,

0:03:46 > 0:03:51who travel across the seas from all around Europe for the thrill of sailing on Norway's Riviera.

0:03:56 > 0:03:59One of these yachtsmen is a Brit.

0:03:59 > 0:04:02Peter Walker left Liverpool to live here.

0:04:02 > 0:04:05But the coastline wasn't the only attraction.

0:04:05 > 0:04:08I met a beautiful Norwegian lady

0:04:08 > 0:04:11in England, she was working as an au-pair.

0:04:11 > 0:04:14Since then we've got three boys,

0:04:14 > 0:04:18and here I've been, living the most beautiful life I can ever think of.

0:04:18 > 0:04:22Is there anything about the lifestyle that you'd import if you could?

0:04:22 > 0:04:26Yeah, I would import a typical English pub

0:04:26 > 0:04:28and a fish and chip shop.

0:04:33 > 0:04:36Peter and his family made their home in Lillesand,

0:04:36 > 0:04:40a small town of 9,000 people and neat, wooden houses.

0:04:40 > 0:04:43The lifestyle revolves around boats.

0:04:43 > 0:04:46But navigating this rocky shore isn't easy.

0:04:50 > 0:04:53There's hundreds and hundreds of underwater skerries.

0:04:53 > 0:04:56It's a small rock, sticking out from the seabed. If they're not marked,

0:04:56 > 0:04:59and you don't know about it, they can sink your boat.

0:05:02 > 0:05:07Much of this curious coastline is hidden just under the sea.

0:05:07 > 0:05:10It's a mysterious, treacherous landscape,

0:05:10 > 0:05:13which keeps sailors on their toes,

0:05:13 > 0:05:17poking its head up above water, creating countless tiny islands.

0:05:18 > 0:05:23The only way to appreciate the beauty of what lies beneath is to get seriously wet.

0:05:24 > 0:05:28Are you sure about jumping into the water with lead weights on?

0:05:28 > 0:05:31What will I do if I jump in and I go straight to the bottom?

0:05:31 > 0:05:36- That should be tight so it doesn't slip.- Everything about this is tight.

0:05:40 > 0:05:41Put your head down now!

0:05:45 > 0:05:48Snorkelling here is a real eye-opener.

0:05:51 > 0:05:54Above the surface it looks so black.

0:05:54 > 0:05:56Down here it's awash with colour and life.

0:05:59 > 0:06:04As you explore, you start to get a sense of a truly coastal country.

0:06:04 > 0:06:07No wonder Peter and his family love it here.

0:06:16 > 0:06:20Norway's southern riviera is a stunning surprise.

0:06:20 > 0:06:25I'd expected fjords and ice, not a myriad of micro-islands.

0:06:28 > 0:06:30But as we head northwards,

0:06:30 > 0:06:33the landscape starts to rear up out of the sea.

0:06:33 > 0:06:38It's more mountainous, with deep fjords carving through the rock.

0:06:38 > 0:06:41This is like Scotland on steroids.

0:06:44 > 0:06:46These inlets snake far inland,

0:06:46 > 0:06:50taking the coast deep into the heart of the country.

0:06:50 > 0:06:53Waterways like this were a challenge

0:06:53 > 0:06:58that spurred the early boat builders onto greatness. 1,200 years ago,

0:06:58 > 0:07:02after the Vikings had mastered their own craggy shores,

0:07:02 > 0:07:06they turned their sights south to Britain and beyond.

0:07:13 > 0:07:15Deep down the Hardangerfjord,

0:07:15 > 0:07:18Mark Horton is in search of their boat-building secrets.

0:07:21 > 0:07:27I can't believe I'm here in Norway, and about to find out how the Vikings

0:07:27 > 0:07:31made their most awesome weapon - the Viking longship.

0:07:36 > 0:07:42Boats are in the blood of the Norseman, both ancient and modern.

0:07:42 > 0:07:49Maritime historian Atle Thowsen knows the value the Vikings placed on their vessels.

0:07:52 > 0:07:55The boat was important to get transport,

0:07:55 > 0:07:59to get from one place to another, to get their food and so on.

0:07:59 > 0:08:03It was their way of communicating.

0:08:03 > 0:08:08This was the way to survive in, for instance, Norway.

0:08:09 > 0:08:13They got into the deep fjords, up the rivers and so on,

0:08:13 > 0:08:17to Paris or... Almost everywhere you could find the Vikings.

0:08:22 > 0:08:27These master mariners sailed west to Newfoundland in North America.

0:08:27 > 0:08:35Looking east, they navigated down the River Volga into the Caspian Sea, to trade with the Islamic world.

0:08:38 > 0:08:42And of course they came south to the British Isles,

0:08:42 > 0:08:46using our waterways to penetrate deep inland.

0:08:46 > 0:08:50So what kind of boats could cope riding raging seas,

0:08:50 > 0:08:55and powering through placid rivers?

0:08:59 > 0:09:06The Vikings have vanished into legend, but their boat design has stood the test of time.

0:09:08 > 0:09:12These waterways were tamed working with wood,

0:09:12 > 0:09:14and these skills have survived.

0:09:14 > 0:09:18Tucked away down the Hardangerfjord

0:09:18 > 0:09:23there's a yard that's changed little since the days of the Viking boatmen.

0:09:24 > 0:09:26Hi, are you Bjorn?

0:09:26 > 0:09:28- Yeah, I'm Bjorn!- Hi!

0:09:28 > 0:09:31This is the most wonderful boatyard.

0:09:31 > 0:09:35Yeah, you think so? It's a nice place, very nice place.

0:09:35 > 0:09:40- There's that overpowering smell of the pine resin.- Mm.

0:09:40 > 0:09:42This is the small boat workshop.

0:09:42 > 0:09:48And you will see two boats in here now, well, parts of a boat, this was just started a week ago.

0:09:48 > 0:09:50And this is a boat we're just about to finish.

0:09:50 > 0:09:53And you can see every stage of their construction.

0:09:53 > 0:09:58Yeah, well, it's a very nice thing to build two boats at the same time.

0:09:58 > 0:09:59So, here we are...

0:09:59 > 0:10:03The most important thing in a Viking boat was its keel -

0:10:03 > 0:10:06the backbone they built upon.

0:10:09 > 0:10:12- The keel goes down quite some distance.- Yes, it does.

0:10:12 > 0:10:16- So the next stage is presumably to build up the sides?- That's right.

0:10:16 > 0:10:20Most wooden boats normally start with a frame,

0:10:20 > 0:10:22then the planks are fixed on.

0:10:22 > 0:10:25But these boats are different.

0:10:25 > 0:10:29The planks are built up one at a time,

0:10:29 > 0:10:33each overlapping the last, placed at precise angles.

0:10:33 > 0:10:36This will be the lines plank that we use

0:10:36 > 0:10:38for building this boat.

0:10:38 > 0:10:42Oh! Not a wonderful architect's ship drawing!

0:10:42 > 0:10:46No! It's not something you get from a computer!

0:10:48 > 0:10:51And the numbers would be the degrees the plank has,

0:10:51 > 0:10:54and would be the width of the plank.

0:10:54 > 0:10:56And how do you measure that angle?

0:10:56 > 0:10:59We use this one,

0:10:59 > 0:11:00that's just a...

0:11:00 > 0:11:03simple use of the gravity.

0:11:03 > 0:11:06- So there you've got the angle of the plank...- Yep, that's right.

0:11:06 > 0:11:08..at 27 degrees, that's there.

0:11:08 > 0:11:13- Yep.- And here it is then at 27, which is there.

0:11:13 > 0:11:15So you just... There it is there.

0:11:17 > 0:11:20That's it. That looks about right.

0:11:21 > 0:11:23The Vikings built all their vessels this way.

0:11:23 > 0:11:28Their longships, their fishing boats, everything.

0:11:28 > 0:11:30This is the new one...

0:11:30 > 0:11:32'Once the planks are in place,

0:11:32 > 0:11:38'they must be secured with special nails which are a bit like rivets.'

0:11:38 > 0:11:40So, that goes like that, doesn't it?

0:11:40 > 0:11:44'This type of construction is called clinker.

0:11:44 > 0:11:49'Bjorn is trusting me to put the last nail in his new clinker boat.'

0:11:51 > 0:11:56- I hope I'm not breaking your boat! - No. Well...well...

0:11:56 > 0:11:58It's as good as it gets!

0:11:58 > 0:12:00So what you're doing now is clinking.

0:12:00 > 0:12:03In Norwegian we would say clinking.

0:12:03 > 0:12:06- So that's the origin of the word "clinker boat"?- Yeah, I guess it is.

0:12:14 > 0:12:18That's good. With the sound, you'll hear that the hammer will answer.

0:12:18 > 0:12:21An experienced boat builder will say that that's a good sound.

0:12:24 > 0:12:30The construction of these boats shows why they were so successful for the Vikings.

0:12:30 > 0:12:35Because the overlapping boards aren't tied to an internal frame,

0:12:35 > 0:12:41the boats are flexible, able to bend enough to ride rough seas.

0:12:41 > 0:12:45And their flattish bottoms can cope with shallow rivers.

0:12:52 > 0:12:56Ultimately though, they were replaced by a different style of vessel,

0:12:56 > 0:13:00with the planks fixed separately onto the ship's skeleton.

0:13:00 > 0:13:04That way, you could build bigger boats.

0:13:04 > 0:13:12But for me, these hills will always be alive with the sound of clinking.

0:13:28 > 0:13:32In open water, very big boats hold sway now.

0:13:32 > 0:13:36As the age of the Viking faded into the sea mist, their renegade trade

0:13:36 > 0:13:40was gradually replaced by more everyday commerce.

0:13:43 > 0:13:46On our journey north, there's a city

0:13:46 > 0:13:50which prospered as part of an exclusive trading club - Bergen.

0:13:52 > 0:13:56700 years ago, this was the commercial capital of Norway,

0:13:56 > 0:13:58with links to Britain and beyond.

0:14:01 > 0:14:05Bergen was the northern outpost of the Hanseatic League,

0:14:05 > 0:14:08a sort of early common market.

0:14:08 > 0:14:11At its height, this league of gentlemen traders

0:14:11 > 0:14:14operated out of ports around Europe,

0:14:14 > 0:14:19including Hull, Norwich, Bristol and King's Lynn, as well as Bergen.

0:14:23 > 0:14:24As long ago as the 14th century,

0:14:24 > 0:14:27it was one of the key cities in Western Europe.

0:14:27 > 0:14:31That harbour over there would have been teeming with sailing ships,

0:14:31 > 0:14:34ready to make their way back and forth across the North Sea.

0:14:40 > 0:14:44Today, trade is still key to our relationship with Norway.

0:14:44 > 0:14:49And in Britain, we benefit from one of their largest exports - fish.

0:14:49 > 0:14:54Look at that! Now that's fresh cod!

0:14:54 > 0:14:57- Is that whale?- That's whale, yes. - What sort?- Minke whale.

0:14:57 > 0:15:02Minke whale. How big is that when it's full grown?

0:15:02 > 0:15:04- 10 tonnes, maybe.- 10 tonnes.

0:15:06 > 0:15:09What a monster. It's the back legs of a king crab.

0:15:09 > 0:15:13Now, that would give you a fright if you saw it in a rock pool.

0:15:13 > 0:15:17I'd dread to think how you'd go about catching one of these.

0:15:19 > 0:15:26These crabs have come from the very top of Norway, right on the Russian border, near the town of Kirkines.

0:15:26 > 0:15:30The king crabs are newcomers to Kirkines.

0:15:30 > 0:15:33They've made their way there from Russia,

0:15:33 > 0:15:36and they're moving gradually southwards.

0:15:36 > 0:15:40They've already been spotted halfway down Norway's coast.

0:15:40 > 0:15:43Eventually, they might even reach British shores.

0:15:47 > 0:15:53One man who grapples daily with king crabs is diver Lars Petter Oie.

0:16:00 > 0:16:04The king crab were introduced to the Bering Sea by the Russians in 1961.

0:16:04 > 0:16:08The first crab we found here was in 1976.

0:16:08 > 0:16:12And ever since that, it has been increasing.

0:16:12 > 0:16:15Maybe one day you'll have the crabs even in Britain.

0:16:19 > 0:16:23It's always a challenge to be 100% sure where to find the crabs.

0:16:23 > 0:16:26But we have so much experience,

0:16:26 > 0:16:30so we know approximately where to find crabs.

0:16:32 > 0:16:35The biggest we caught here was 1 metre and 70,

0:16:35 > 0:16:38it's exactly my own height actually!

0:16:38 > 0:16:39And it was about eight kilos.

0:16:39 > 0:16:44But commercially it has been caught crabs up to 15 or 16 kilos.

0:16:47 > 0:16:50A crab like this, this is like four, four-and-a-half kilo.

0:16:50 > 0:16:53You wouldn't afford to eat it in London!

0:16:53 > 0:16:58This is, er, this is a lot of money actually!

0:17:08 > 0:17:13So, here's meat all the way from here and all the way here.

0:17:15 > 0:17:17As you see, it's very tender.

0:17:18 > 0:17:21And it's even sweeter than normal lobster.

0:17:21 > 0:17:26This is the way you should eat it, it's straight from the sea.

0:17:26 > 0:17:28- Skol!- Skol!

0:17:38 > 0:17:42On my own journey up to the north of Norway, I'm coming to a spot

0:17:42 > 0:17:45that's a real emotional draw for me - a little town called Televag.

0:17:48 > 0:17:51It's a picture-perfect postcard type of place now.

0:17:51 > 0:17:53But in the Second World War,

0:17:53 > 0:17:59Televag was transformed to become a terrible example of Nazi oppression.

0:18:03 > 0:18:07I've got this photograph that was taken in 1945.

0:18:07 > 0:18:09I'm trying to position myself

0:18:09 > 0:18:13so that I'm where the photographer stood when he took the snap.

0:18:13 > 0:18:15It's important to remind yourself

0:18:15 > 0:18:18what this place looked like at the end of the war,

0:18:18 > 0:18:21because the town was completely erased.

0:18:25 > 0:18:28The story of Televag's destruction

0:18:28 > 0:18:31begins with the German occupation of Norway in 1940.

0:18:31 > 0:18:33Before long, Norway's resistance fighters

0:18:33 > 0:18:38looked across the sea to their British neighbours for help.

0:18:41 > 0:18:45Fishing boats started to ferry refugees and resistance agents

0:18:45 > 0:18:48to and fro between Norway and Shetland.

0:18:48 > 0:18:53This secret boat service became known as the Shetland bus.

0:18:53 > 0:18:56I've seen one side of the story already on Coast,

0:18:56 > 0:18:59when I visited Scalloway on Shetland.

0:19:01 > 0:19:0523, 28, 21, 21... Just wee boys.

0:19:05 > 0:19:08Just boys.

0:19:08 > 0:19:12Many brave young men died running the Shetland bus,

0:19:12 > 0:19:16and here in Norway, an entire town paid a terrible price

0:19:16 > 0:19:19for their part in resisting the Nazis.

0:19:19 > 0:19:21Barbara, can you show me a photograph of Arna,

0:19:21 > 0:19:23- show me what he looked like?- Yes.

0:19:23 > 0:19:28Shetland lass Barbara Melkevik married a Norwegian member of the Shetland bus.

0:19:28 > 0:19:32He was called Arna, and was from Televag.

0:19:33 > 0:19:36I met him when he first came to Scalloway,

0:19:36 > 0:19:40he was going to work on the fishing boats,

0:19:40 > 0:19:43which they were to use on these secret missions to Norway.

0:19:43 > 0:19:48And I was not to ask any questions.

0:19:48 > 0:19:52- If I did, I couldn't get any answers. - Right!

0:19:56 > 0:19:59On one fateful night, Barbara's husband, Arna,

0:19:59 > 0:20:03set sail from Shetland with a secret cargo on board.

0:20:07 > 0:20:11These were dangerous waters - as well as rough seas and strong winds,

0:20:11 > 0:20:17the fishermen had to avoid the constant threat of patrolling German aircraft and U-boats.

0:20:17 > 0:20:19But eventually,

0:20:19 > 0:20:24Arna's boat managed to reach a small creek just outside Televag.

0:20:27 > 0:20:30It was right here, in the dead of night on April 21 1942,

0:20:30 > 0:20:36that Barbara's husband, Arna, arrived to deliver two agents of the Norwegian resistance.

0:20:36 > 0:20:42Their names were Emil Gustaf Hvaal and Arne Vaerum.

0:20:49 > 0:20:52The two agents were taken to a house in the village of Televag.

0:20:52 > 0:20:54They managed to hide for a week,

0:20:54 > 0:20:58until their cover was blown and the secret was out.

0:20:58 > 0:21:01The Nazis stormed the house, and in the ensuing shoot-out,

0:21:01 > 0:21:06two SS officers and one of the Norwegian agents were killed.

0:21:09 > 0:21:11In a furious display of vengeance,

0:21:11 > 0:21:14the Nazis systematically destroyed Televag.

0:21:14 > 0:21:17Families were split up. Some were sent to concentration camps.

0:21:21 > 0:21:24It was the worst act of reprisal in Norway.

0:21:26 > 0:21:29Long after the war, Barbara's husband, Arna,

0:21:29 > 0:21:31struggled to come to terms with the devastation

0:21:31 > 0:21:35he'd unwittingly brought upon his home town.

0:21:38 > 0:21:42Just came bit by bit, now and again.

0:21:42 > 0:21:45He was so pleased that it was all over,

0:21:45 > 0:21:51and could get back to a normal life. But he didn't like talking about it.

0:21:57 > 0:22:00Televag wasn't wiped out by the Nazis,

0:22:00 > 0:22:04because those who survived returned to rebuild it.

0:22:04 > 0:22:07Their new town now stands as a testament

0:22:07 > 0:22:10to the resilience of Norwegian and British resistance

0:22:10 > 0:22:13to the tyranny that stalked these shores.

0:22:22 > 0:22:26Our links across the sea aren't just woven into stories of war.

0:22:26 > 0:22:30They're also etched in the landscape itself.

0:22:30 > 0:22:35Further north along the coastline, we're in the heart of fjord country.

0:22:35 > 0:22:38Wide openings reveal the start of giant inlets,

0:22:38 > 0:22:42some of which snake over 100 miles inland.

0:22:47 > 0:22:51Nick Crane has come to one of Norway's most famous fjords

0:22:51 > 0:22:54to explore a distant connection to our shore.

0:23:00 > 0:23:03Would you look at this?

0:23:04 > 0:23:06Geirangerfjord.

0:23:06 > 0:23:09What a view!

0:23:09 > 0:23:11And what a scale!

0:23:14 > 0:23:20This spectacular fjord is nearly nine miles long, and over 700ft deep.

0:23:22 > 0:23:26It looks extraordinary, very different to our terrain at home.

0:23:26 > 0:23:29But there are more similarities than you might think.

0:23:29 > 0:23:33It's almost impossible to imagine

0:23:33 > 0:23:38that the mighty forces of nature that gouged out this landscape

0:23:38 > 0:23:41are the ones that also shaped Scotland.

0:23:44 > 0:23:47Our connection to these rocks goes back millions of years.

0:23:47 > 0:23:51Here in Norway, we can still see how Britain was built.

0:23:51 > 0:23:55But to do that, I need to go high above the landscape.

0:24:01 > 0:24:06It's an epic story, with action that really is ground-breaking.

0:24:09 > 0:24:15We're heading inland to the uplands, to find out how fjords were made,

0:24:15 > 0:24:20see how the forces that shaped Norway and Scotland are still at work.

0:24:27 > 0:24:30As an amateur geographer this is one of the most exciting days of my life.

0:24:33 > 0:24:36'Ice - the irresistible force that can cut through rock.'

0:24:38 > 0:24:41What an amazing sight, this is like a frozen waterfall.

0:24:44 > 0:24:48This would have been a common sight in Scotland back in the Ice Age.

0:24:48 > 0:24:52What we're looking at is an almost vertical glacier.

0:24:54 > 0:24:58It's carving a U-shaped rocky trench out of the sides of the valley

0:24:58 > 0:25:01and carrying with it lots of rock debris,

0:25:01 > 0:25:04which it will dump further down the valley.

0:25:04 > 0:25:07It's an incredible sight, this is glaciation

0:25:07 > 0:25:10right in front of your eyes. It's happening right now.

0:25:19 > 0:25:23The Norwegian and British coasts are connected by water now.

0:25:23 > 0:25:29But go back 20,000 years, and the link was ice - a giant sheet of ice

0:25:29 > 0:25:33that stretched from Norway to Britain as far south as Norfolk.

0:25:37 > 0:25:41Our landscape still bears the scars of that moving crust of ice.

0:25:41 > 0:25:45It's eroded all but our toughest rock,

0:25:45 > 0:25:47sculpting the peaks of Scotland,

0:25:47 > 0:25:52and gouging the deeply-carved valleys of the Lake District.

0:25:54 > 0:25:58And what's so great about coming to Norway is you can see

0:25:58 > 0:26:03what glaciers in Britain might have looked like 20,000 years ago,

0:26:03 > 0:26:05before our ice melted completely.

0:26:13 > 0:26:19Today, this monumental landscape seems to be at complete peace.

0:26:19 > 0:26:22There's a timeless stillness about it.

0:26:22 > 0:26:26But bits of it are far from still.

0:26:30 > 0:26:34As the glaciers retreat inland, the steep cliffs either side

0:26:34 > 0:26:38of the fjords no longer have anything to prop them up,

0:26:38 > 0:26:43and every so often great hunks of land just fall away,

0:26:43 > 0:26:46down into the fjords.

0:26:46 > 0:26:49The rich vegetation covering the cliff sides

0:26:49 > 0:26:53masks long, potentially lethal fractures in the rock.

0:26:58 > 0:27:00Just look at this.

0:27:00 > 0:27:04This chasm has been formed because the mountainside is splitting -

0:27:04 > 0:27:08parts of it are moving at 20cm a year.

0:27:08 > 0:27:10At some point in the next 300 years,

0:27:10 > 0:27:14all this is going to thunder down into the fjord.

0:27:21 > 0:27:24Up here on the mountainside, I'm meeting Kjell Jogerud,

0:27:24 > 0:27:28whose job it is to monitor the impending landslide.

0:27:29 > 0:27:33- Hello, Kjell.- Hello. - Very good to meet you.

0:27:33 > 0:27:34Yeah. Nice to meet you too.

0:27:34 > 0:27:38Can you tell me what is happening to this mountain.

0:27:38 > 0:27:41Yes. Er, as you see beneath us here,

0:27:41 > 0:27:45more or less everything you see is moving.

0:27:45 > 0:27:47And when these masses hit the fjord,

0:27:47 > 0:27:50they will transport down to the bottom,

0:27:50 > 0:27:53cross the fjord, and move up on the shoreline up on the other side.

0:27:53 > 0:27:56This mountain will reach the far side of the fjord?

0:27:56 > 0:28:01Yes, yes. And they will set off deposits across all the fjord,

0:28:01 > 0:28:05and create quite a large tsunami.

0:28:05 > 0:28:07- A tidal wave.- Yes, yes.

0:28:09 > 0:28:11As the land slides into the fjord,

0:28:11 > 0:28:14the tsunami will funnel down the narrow channels.

0:28:14 > 0:28:184,000 people live in its devastating path.

0:28:18 > 0:28:22It's not a question of if the tsunami will happen, but when.

0:28:22 > 0:28:26So the Norwegians have rigged this hillside with 300 sensors.

0:28:26 > 0:28:28When the land starts to move,

0:28:28 > 0:28:33they hope to have up to 48 hours' notice to warn everyone in the area -

0:28:33 > 0:28:39by text message, automatic phone calls and sirens.

0:28:41 > 0:28:45The tidal wave will come careering down this fjord, straight ahead here,

0:28:45 > 0:28:48over the top of this ferry and hit Hellesylt behind us.

0:28:48 > 0:28:51The wave is always going to search for open water,

0:28:51 > 0:28:54so some of it will shoot up this side fjord, Geirangerfjord.

0:28:54 > 0:28:57And at the end there, there's nowhere else for it to go.

0:29:01 > 0:29:04At the very end of this fjord,

0:29:04 > 0:29:07there's a little town called Geiranger - home to over 300 people.

0:29:07 > 0:29:10I want to find out why they stay

0:29:10 > 0:29:14when they know that a tsunami is inevitable.

0:29:19 > 0:29:22This is Geiranger, and the head of the fjord.

0:29:22 > 0:29:26When the tidal wave reaches here, it has nowhere else to go.

0:29:26 > 0:29:30A catastrophic wall of water 40 metres high will smash into Geiranger

0:29:30 > 0:29:34and reach the spot where I'm standing now.

0:29:34 > 0:29:38All of these buildings will disappear in an instant.

0:29:53 > 0:29:57One family has lived here for 500 years - almost 20 generations.

0:29:57 > 0:30:02Thomas Grande has his home and camping business right at the water's edge.

0:30:02 > 0:30:07He knows that one day in his lifetime, or his children's,

0:30:07 > 0:30:09or their descendants', the tsunami will come.

0:30:13 > 0:30:16Why do you not move to higher ground where it will be safer?

0:30:16 > 0:30:19Er, because we have our roots here.

0:30:19 > 0:30:21We like it very much here.

0:30:21 > 0:30:25It's a good place to grow up, for Noah.

0:30:25 > 0:30:29But when the wave comes, it will destroy your house,

0:30:29 > 0:30:33it will destroy this beautiful bit of foreshore with the grass

0:30:33 > 0:30:36and the ancient barns, the boatsheds, everything will go.

0:30:36 > 0:30:40Yeah. Everything will go, because just materials.

0:30:40 > 0:30:43The most important is that we can get away safely, and that we trust.

0:30:43 > 0:30:49I think we will settle down again and move back and build it up again.

0:30:49 > 0:30:54What does this piece of land mean to you personally?

0:30:54 > 0:30:58I've been walking here since my first steps,

0:30:58 > 0:31:01so it's very important for me.

0:31:08 > 0:31:10I'm really moved by this place,

0:31:10 > 0:31:14by the immense forces of ice and water which shape the fjords

0:31:14 > 0:31:17and which tell us so much about Scotland's early days.

0:31:17 > 0:31:21But I also wonder whether we Britons, who are facing rising sea levels

0:31:21 > 0:31:25and a change in coastline, can't pick up a tip or two from the people there

0:31:25 > 0:31:30who've learnt to adapt to nature's more ferocious moods.

0:31:47 > 0:31:50Travel along Geirangerfjord and out to the open sea

0:31:50 > 0:31:54and there's another symbol of Norwegian resilience in the face of adversity.

0:31:56 > 0:32:01Here at Alesund in January 1904, a small blaze started in the town.

0:32:01 > 0:32:05It spread rapidly through the tightly-packed wooden houses.

0:32:05 > 0:32:1110,000 people lost their homes as the entire town burnt to the ground.

0:32:11 > 0:32:13The tragedy shocked the nation,

0:32:13 > 0:32:18spurring them on to rebuild Alesund completely in just three years.

0:32:23 > 0:32:31Nearby, it took six years to build this extraordinary five mile-long expressway, the Atlantic Road.

0:32:31 > 0:32:33Eight bridges skim across the sea,

0:32:33 > 0:32:36buttressed by island stepping stones.

0:32:36 > 0:32:41Since it opened in 1989, the Atlantic Road has laid claim

0:32:41 > 0:32:45to being one of the world's greatest driving experiences.

0:32:50 > 0:32:55You don't have to go far off the road to find another curious coastal construction.

0:32:59 > 0:33:02Alice Roberts is on her way to Nyhamna,

0:33:02 > 0:33:04to explore a powerful link to Britain.

0:33:11 > 0:33:14Just beyond those islands is the North Sea,

0:33:14 > 0:33:17which means that between here and home,

0:33:17 > 0:33:20there's an awful lot of oil and gas.

0:33:25 > 0:33:28Our North Sea gas may be running out,

0:33:28 > 0:33:31but the Norwegians still have big reserves.

0:33:31 > 0:33:36So, like asking the neighbours for a cup of sugar, we've had to come here.

0:33:36 > 0:33:40This massive gas plant could be keeping you warm this winter,

0:33:40 > 0:33:44because it'll be supplying up to a fifth of Britain's gas requirements.

0:33:47 > 0:33:49A fifth of the UK's gas -

0:33:49 > 0:33:54that's the equivalent of supplying the needs of Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland.

0:33:59 > 0:34:02The gas lies 74 miles out to sea,

0:34:02 > 0:34:05nearly two miles below the waves.

0:34:07 > 0:34:12It's gathered by platforms sitting on the sea bed, then drawn through pipes

0:34:12 > 0:34:15all the way to the processing plant here in Nyhamna.

0:34:17 > 0:34:21I'm meeting the plant director, Bernt Granas,

0:34:21 > 0:34:26to find out what happens before the gas is piped to us in Britain.

0:34:27 > 0:34:30First of all, we have to get rid of liquids.

0:34:30 > 0:34:33And it's a process that starts in these huge pipes here.

0:34:33 > 0:34:37So when the gas comes ashore it's not just pure gas.

0:34:37 > 0:34:41It's sand, it's gas, it's water and it's antifreeze.

0:34:41 > 0:34:44And how long does this whole process take?

0:34:44 > 0:34:49From the gas when it arrive here on the beach, until it's on its way to the UK, it's 10 minutes.

0:34:49 > 0:34:5410 minutes? And what about Norway, how much gas is used here?

0:34:54 > 0:34:57- We hardly use any gas at all. - So where do you get your energy?

0:34:57 > 0:35:00We have hydro-electric power and for almost anything here,

0:35:00 > 0:35:05and of course even this plant is running on hydro-electric power.

0:35:05 > 0:35:08So you've got a plant here that's just cleaning up gas

0:35:08 > 0:35:12- for export to Britain, but itself is powered by hydro-electric.- Yes.

0:35:14 > 0:35:16The Norwegians are fortunate.

0:35:16 > 0:35:20They can fulfil many of their energy needs with hydro-electricity,

0:35:20 > 0:35:23so they've hardly touched their gas.

0:35:23 > 0:35:26But in Britain we've become addicted to the stuff,

0:35:26 > 0:35:30so now we're forced to go to extraordinary lengths to get it.

0:35:31 > 0:35:36The gas leaves the plant here and begins its mammoth journey

0:35:36 > 0:35:41all the way to Easington in Yorkshire. 746 miles in length,

0:35:41 > 0:35:46this is the longest sub-sea pipeline in the world.

0:35:54 > 0:35:56So this is it. I can hear it.

0:35:56 > 0:36:01This is the gas you're hearing, gas going to UK,

0:36:01 > 0:36:0470 million standard cubic metres every day,

0:36:04 > 0:36:08making up one fifth of the gas need.

0:36:08 > 0:36:13How on earth do you lay a pipeline of that length across the seabed?

0:36:13 > 0:36:16Well, it's quite impressive technology in a sense that

0:36:16 > 0:36:19it's laid in 12 metre lengths, welded together, one by one,

0:36:19 > 0:36:22and you put it on the sea bed as you go,

0:36:22 > 0:36:25and in the duration of two summers you can do it.

0:36:25 > 0:36:28I can hear this gas rushing through here at the moment,

0:36:28 > 0:36:33- how many more years do we have?- Well, you have at least 40 more years.

0:36:33 > 0:36:36- And are you still looking for more fields?- Always.

0:36:40 > 0:36:4440 years, that's not long.

0:36:44 > 0:36:49The world is facing up to the fact that we need alternative ways to harness energy.

0:36:51 > 0:36:55But perhaps we can find some solutions to our future energy needs

0:36:55 > 0:36:59using something else that we have in common with Norway -

0:36:59 > 0:37:01our very long coastlines.

0:37:04 > 0:37:06Wherever a river meets the sea,

0:37:06 > 0:37:09you get a mixture of saltwater and fresh water.

0:37:09 > 0:37:14The Norwegians' novel plan is to generate electricity

0:37:14 > 0:37:19using salt and fresh water via a process called osmosis.

0:37:22 > 0:37:28A good way to observe osmosis in action is to see how an egg

0:37:28 > 0:37:33can be pumped up in size when it is immersed in fresh water.

0:37:36 > 0:37:38Here are two ordinary hens' eggs.

0:37:38 > 0:37:41First of all I've placed them both in vinegar

0:37:41 > 0:37:43to dissolve the shells away.

0:37:43 > 0:37:47What is left is a bag of eggy fluid in a membrane.

0:37:47 > 0:37:52All the shell has gone. Now, this one I've left like that as a control

0:37:52 > 0:37:55so we can see how big it was to start with.

0:37:55 > 0:38:03The other egg I put in this glass of pure fresh water for 24 hours,

0:38:03 > 0:38:08and you can just see the difference in size.

0:38:08 > 0:38:09Just look at that.

0:38:09 > 0:38:13So the membrane outside the egg is a semi-permeable membrane,

0:38:13 > 0:38:15it allows water in,

0:38:15 > 0:38:19but it doesn't allow the other substances inside the egg out.

0:38:19 > 0:38:22So this is a good demonstration of osmosis.

0:38:22 > 0:38:26The pressure in this egg is now quite enormous.

0:38:35 > 0:38:40Water went in through my egg membrane making it swell up.

0:38:40 > 0:38:43Now exactly the same thing would happen

0:38:43 > 0:38:46if the fluid inside my egg was saltwater.

0:38:46 > 0:38:51It would still swell up because the fresh water is drawn inside

0:38:51 > 0:38:55to dilute the most concentrated salty water.

0:38:55 > 0:38:59The pressure increases inside the egg and harnessing osmotic pressure

0:38:59 > 0:39:05is the novel idea behind the Norwegians' power plant.

0:39:08 > 0:39:09- Hello.- Hi.

0:39:09 > 0:39:12'I'm meeting Stein Erik Skilhagen.

0:39:12 > 0:39:17'He's created a model to show osmotic power in action.'

0:39:17 > 0:39:21We have three chambers with salt water,

0:39:21 > 0:39:24and we have four chambers with fresh water.

0:39:24 > 0:39:28So we've got alternating chambers of fresh and saltwater,

0:39:28 > 0:39:31- and each one is separated by a membrane.- Yes.

0:39:31 > 0:39:35The pressure will increase and then when it gets high enough it has to evacuate somewhere.

0:39:35 > 0:39:41- That's going to come out through these pipes here, is it, and then turn our turbine?- Ja.

0:39:47 > 0:39:50'Inside Stein Erik's clever contraption

0:39:50 > 0:39:55'are four chambers of fresh water and three chambers of salt water,

0:39:55 > 0:39:58'each separated by a special artificial membrane

0:39:58 > 0:40:01'similar to the one around an egg.

0:40:02 > 0:40:07'Between the chambers, osmosis takes place - water forces its way

0:40:07 > 0:40:12'through the membranes from the fresh water into the salt water chambers,

0:40:12 > 0:40:14'and that creates a pressure,

0:40:14 > 0:40:19'eventually forcing the excess water out through these pipes

0:40:19 > 0:40:22'and hopefully turning our model turbine.'

0:40:26 > 0:40:30Starting to get some drips coming through.

0:40:30 > 0:40:35Oh, look at that, off it goes, that's really impressive.

0:40:35 > 0:40:39And the water that comes out here, that is brackish water - mixture of sea water and fresh water.

0:40:39 > 0:40:43So that's spinning around nicely now,

0:40:43 > 0:40:46so if you were to attach a generator to this, you could make electricity.

0:40:46 > 0:40:51We think this is going to be a very good way to produce new renewable energy.

0:40:54 > 0:40:58The pressure osmosis can produce is enormous.

0:40:58 > 0:41:04An osmotic power plant could harness energy equivalent to nearly a 400-foot waterfall.

0:41:04 > 0:41:07By exploiting this completely natural process,

0:41:07 > 0:41:10far more electricity could be generated

0:41:10 > 0:41:15than from a conventional water wheel driven by the same river.

0:41:19 > 0:41:27The model may work, but scaling it up into a renewable resource to rival wind power is a big challenge.

0:41:27 > 0:41:32Full scale power stations are still a long way off,

0:41:32 > 0:41:37but for me, this is surprising and really promising science.

0:41:38 > 0:41:41If the Norwegian prototype works,

0:41:41 > 0:41:44then just imagine what that could mean for the UK.

0:41:44 > 0:41:46We could look forward to a time

0:41:46 > 0:41:49when we could produce clean, renewable energy

0:41:49 > 0:41:52from the fresh water and salt water

0:41:52 > 0:41:55that's so abundant along our coastline.

0:42:03 > 0:42:06To travel along this coast by land,

0:42:06 > 0:42:10you need time to spare and then some.

0:42:11 > 0:42:15To speed up my journey I'm heading for Trondheim.

0:42:22 > 0:42:26I'm not stopping in the port for long,

0:42:26 > 0:42:30this is my springing off point to the far north.

0:42:33 > 0:42:35Because Norway is so long and thin

0:42:35 > 0:42:39and has that fiddly coastline with all those fjords,

0:42:39 > 0:42:42it makes more sense to travel by sea than by road,

0:42:42 > 0:42:45so they've got a ferry that travels practically the entire coastline,

0:42:45 > 0:42:49so that's me all the way to the Arctic Circle and beyond.

0:42:55 > 0:42:59This is nice, a bit posher than your average ferry, I must say.

0:43:04 > 0:43:08This is one of 12 ferries that make up a scheduled service

0:43:08 > 0:43:12that the locals call the Hurtigruten, or coastal express,

0:43:12 > 0:43:17and it's a transport system with a special place in Norwegian hearts.

0:43:17 > 0:43:21Since 1893, the Hurtigruten fleet of ships has been a reliable way

0:43:21 > 0:43:24to reach some of the most northerly towns and villages.

0:43:26 > 0:43:29In the early years, it was a lifeline

0:43:29 > 0:43:32for the people living in these remote areas.

0:43:35 > 0:43:39Day and night, the ships faithfully ply their way up and down

0:43:39 > 0:43:42the length of the Norwegian coast.

0:43:42 > 0:43:44The Hurtigruten service seems unstoppable,

0:43:44 > 0:43:46even when the weather whips up.

0:43:50 > 0:43:55The oldest ship of the fleet still steams by at an incredible pace.

0:43:58 > 0:44:00That globe on that little island

0:44:00 > 0:44:03marks the start or the boundary of the Arctic Circle,

0:44:03 > 0:44:05so I'm just about to cross it

0:44:05 > 0:44:08and I'm waiting nervously for a siren to blow, actually.

0:44:08 > 0:44:11SHIP'S HORN BLOWS

0:44:11 > 0:44:14That'll be the Arctic Circle, then.

0:44:14 > 0:44:18It's exactly the weather I was expecting, it's the wild north.

0:44:22 > 0:44:26What I wasn't expecting was the arrival of a mythical sea god -

0:44:26 > 0:44:27King Neptune.

0:44:27 > 0:44:33Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome to the Arctic Circle ceremony, King Neptune is here to say hello to you.

0:44:35 > 0:44:37This I don't need.

0:44:45 > 0:44:48Right, do your worst, Neptune.

0:44:53 > 0:44:54Evil despot, that's what he is.

0:44:56 > 0:45:03But Neptune's ice-breaker is nothing compared to Norway's most northerly land.

0:45:06 > 0:45:10Beyond even the Hurtigruten's reach is Svalbard.

0:45:12 > 0:45:16Svalbard is a group of Norwegian Irelands

0:45:16 > 0:45:17on the way to the North Pole.

0:45:17 > 0:45:22It's a tough place to live, but polar bears like it

0:45:22 > 0:45:26and so does one Aussie photographer on the hunt for a good bear shot.

0:45:37 > 0:45:40My name is Jason Roberts, I was born in Australia,

0:45:40 > 0:45:43which from where we're sitting at the moment

0:45:43 > 0:45:46is completely the opposite side of the globe.

0:45:47 > 0:45:49I currently live on Svalbard

0:45:49 > 0:45:52which is one of the most amazing places on the planet.

0:45:53 > 0:45:57Adventure and outdoors is the reason why I come to Svalbard.

0:45:57 > 0:46:00No beautiful girl involved.

0:46:03 > 0:46:06Unfortunately we're too late for any good shots of the bear

0:46:06 > 0:46:08taking a kill here.

0:46:10 > 0:46:12We're too late for dinner.

0:46:17 > 0:46:21I move from height to height, so the next stop will be up on the coastline.

0:46:21 > 0:46:25We're following the ice edge, we have new ice out from the older ice here,

0:46:25 > 0:46:30and more than movement, we're looking for the wrong colour.

0:46:30 > 0:46:35Bears are more creamy yellow colour than the ice.

0:46:45 > 0:46:47He's just walking, licking the air,

0:46:47 > 0:46:50trying to smell for ringed seal lairs.

0:46:50 > 0:46:54Not fussed about us at all - he knows he's a king.

0:47:00 > 0:47:04Polar bears are generally quite good animals, we spend so much time

0:47:04 > 0:47:07with some bears, you really feel you get to know their personality.

0:47:07 > 0:47:11After many days, after weeks with the same polar bear,

0:47:11 > 0:47:15you feel that you can come and find them two weeks later and say,

0:47:15 > 0:47:18"Hi, good to see you again after last time."

0:47:21 > 0:47:26Svalbard is a place that, like a lot of extreme things, eats into you

0:47:26 > 0:47:30like a virus and it's harder and harder to get away from it,

0:47:30 > 0:47:34and everything else seems so mundane, boring.

0:47:36 > 0:47:40Once you get that polar virus in you it's very hard to remove it.

0:47:42 > 0:47:46CAMERA SHUTTER WHIRRS CONSTANTLY

0:47:46 > 0:47:49Totally awesome, totally awesome.

0:47:49 > 0:47:52I could feel the snow around me pound as he went through the lair.

0:47:52 > 0:47:56Hardly ever experience something like that.

0:47:56 > 0:48:00More people have been on the top of Everest than have experienced that.

0:48:00 > 0:48:03Totally awesome.

0:48:15 > 0:48:17Back on the coastal express,

0:48:17 > 0:48:20I'm on course to reach my destination -

0:48:20 > 0:48:22the Lofoten Islands.

0:48:22 > 0:48:25Few Norwegians get this far north,

0:48:25 > 0:48:28but many are in awe of these mystical islands.

0:48:30 > 0:48:34I can feel a knot of anticipation in my stomach,

0:48:34 > 0:48:36but imagine how, over 60 years ago,

0:48:36 > 0:48:40British Commandos and their Navy comrades felt

0:48:40 > 0:48:44as they steamed, in secret, through these waters in 1941,

0:48:44 > 0:48:49about to take the war to Hitler in Nazi-occupied Norway.

0:48:55 > 0:48:58In the early morning of the 4th of March 1941,

0:48:58 > 0:49:00the Germans occupying the Lofoten Islands

0:49:00 > 0:49:03were utterly unaware of what was about to hit them.

0:49:05 > 0:49:08Five destroyers and two ships carrying Commandos

0:49:08 > 0:49:10were creeping up on the islands.

0:49:12 > 0:49:14This was Operation Claymore.

0:49:17 > 0:49:21They came into this harbour at Svolvaer under cover of darkness.

0:49:21 > 0:49:26In early 1941, the German forces were supremely confident,

0:49:26 > 0:49:28the masters of Western Europe,

0:49:28 > 0:49:33but this raid by British and Norwegian forces was the beginning of the fight back.

0:49:36 > 0:49:41Fish oil factories being used to make glycerine for munitions were destroyed.

0:49:41 > 0:49:44German soldiers, officials and collaborators were rounded up

0:49:44 > 0:49:49and the whole operation was filmed to show the folks back home that we were standing up to Hitler.

0:49:49 > 0:49:53'In a daring and highly successful raid, British and Norwegian forces

0:49:53 > 0:49:57'swept down on the Lofoten Islands off Narvik.

0:49:57 > 0:50:02'We sank 18,000 tonnes of enemy merchant shipping and took over 220 prisoners.

0:50:02 > 0:50:06'Stinging blows like this are swinging the war of nerves

0:50:06 > 0:50:09'against Hitler.'

0:50:16 > 0:50:19As the euphoria of success wore off,

0:50:19 > 0:50:23the world viewed the raid on the Lofotens as a vital morale booster,

0:50:23 > 0:50:25but with little strategic value.

0:50:25 > 0:50:30Only a handful of people knew the true significance of this raid -

0:50:30 > 0:50:32how a chance discovery here

0:50:32 > 0:50:36would help change the course of the Second World War.

0:50:39 > 0:50:43While the ships were blazing in the harbour over there,

0:50:43 > 0:50:46a group of brave British soldiers managed to get aboard

0:50:46 > 0:50:49an armed German trawler called the Krebs, which was out there,

0:50:49 > 0:50:52between that big rock and the shore.

0:50:52 > 0:50:56Before it sank, they managed to recover a priceless prize -

0:50:56 > 0:50:58a set of wheels like these,

0:50:58 > 0:51:03top secret rotors from a German Enigma encoding machine.

0:51:05 > 0:51:07Type a letter on the Enigma machine

0:51:07 > 0:51:10and it made these gear wheels rotate,

0:51:10 > 0:51:13producing a message you could only read with another machine

0:51:13 > 0:51:15with the rotors set the same way.

0:51:15 > 0:51:20Not only were rotors captured in the Lofoten raid,

0:51:20 > 0:51:23they also got hold of an Enigma code book.

0:51:23 > 0:51:26All were sent back to Bletchley Park,

0:51:26 > 0:51:29the British code-breaking centre.

0:51:29 > 0:51:32These were vital parts of the puzzle,

0:51:32 > 0:51:35helping finally to crack the Enigma code,

0:51:35 > 0:51:38shortening the war and saving countless lives.

0:51:48 > 0:51:51The Lofoten archipelago is made up of six main islands

0:51:51 > 0:51:55which sit deep within the Arctic Circle.

0:51:55 > 0:51:59These waters aren't as cold as you might imagine -

0:51:59 > 0:52:02they are washed by the warm Gulf Stream

0:52:02 > 0:52:06which attracts huge shoals of cod and the fishermen to catch them.

0:52:09 > 0:52:15The town of Svalvard is dotted with evidence of the boom times of cod fishing.

0:52:15 > 0:52:19Huts like these were built to accommodate an army of fisherman,

0:52:19 > 0:52:23thousands of them sleeping two or even three to a bunk.

0:52:23 > 0:52:29They came every winter when the cod in their millions arrived in the waters off the north of Norway.

0:52:32 > 0:52:36With a big bounty of fish suddenly landing in their laps,

0:52:36 > 0:52:37they needed a way to preserve it.

0:52:39 > 0:52:43So the fish were tied in pairs and hung in the air to dry.

0:52:43 > 0:52:48It's an age-old method for making fast food

0:52:48 > 0:52:50that the Vikings knew all about.

0:52:56 > 0:52:59Right, then, this is the dried cod.

0:52:59 > 0:53:04Every March, these huge racks are festooned with the fresh fish

0:53:04 > 0:53:06and it dries in the wind.

0:53:06 > 0:53:09This is what the Vikings took with them on their epic voyages

0:53:09 > 0:53:14because once dried, it's preserved and it'll last a long time.

0:53:14 > 0:53:17Now, believe it or not, I'm supposed to eat a bit of this

0:53:17 > 0:53:21after first tenderising it by beating it with this hammer, but...

0:53:21 > 0:53:24I've eaten some things in my time, but I draw the line.

0:53:24 > 0:53:26This is beyond rank.

0:53:26 > 0:53:31If this is what the Vikings ate as well as being terrifyingly violent,

0:53:31 > 0:53:35they must have had breath that would stun a monkey.

0:53:36 > 0:53:40The Vikings didn't just keep the dry cod for themselves,

0:53:40 > 0:53:43they traded it with other countries.

0:53:46 > 0:53:49You don't really think of the Vikings as fish salesmen,

0:53:49 > 0:53:53but as Christianity became more and more established in Britain,

0:53:53 > 0:53:57the church began to discourage the eating of meat on Fridays,

0:53:57 > 0:53:59so fish was on the menu instead.

0:53:59 > 0:54:03Of course fresh fish stock started to fall,

0:54:03 > 0:54:05and dried cod was in demand.

0:54:07 > 0:54:10Trading cod with countries like Britain

0:54:10 > 0:54:16helped make the Viking rich enough to indulge in some grand designs.

0:54:16 > 0:54:20Here in the Lofotens they've reconstructed a Viking chieftain's long house,

0:54:20 > 0:54:25based on evidence from archaeological remains nearby.

0:54:25 > 0:54:29You could say it's the replica of a house that cod built.

0:54:29 > 0:54:32- Hello, Margarethe.- Hello, welcome.

0:54:32 > 0:54:36'Archaeologist Margarethe Rabas is going to show me around.'

0:54:42 > 0:54:46So what happens in here then? It looks like a bit of everything.

0:54:46 > 0:54:50This is what we believe has been the living quarters,

0:54:50 > 0:54:54most of the everyday life has been going on here.

0:54:54 > 0:55:00How many people would have lived and worked in this building?

0:55:00 > 0:55:06It's really hard to say, but an estimate is between 70 and 80 people.

0:55:06 > 0:55:10- That's a big group.- Yeah.

0:55:10 > 0:55:14This is the great hall, and this room has been

0:55:14 > 0:55:18the political and social centre also.

0:55:18 > 0:55:23So, this is the heart, the beating heart of the community here.

0:55:23 > 0:55:25What was found by the archaeologists

0:55:25 > 0:55:27on the actual site?

0:55:27 > 0:55:32They found everyday tools and things like that,

0:55:32 > 0:55:37but also really precious imported items like glass and pottery.

0:55:37 > 0:55:41There was glass imported from Britain found here.

0:55:45 > 0:55:48These artefacts of commerce and conflict

0:55:48 > 0:55:50show there were two sides to the Vikings.

0:55:50 > 0:55:53We know they were war-like,

0:55:53 > 0:55:58but they didn't just come to Britain to raid, they also came to trade.

0:56:03 > 0:56:07The Norwegians have preserved the heritage of their seafaring ancestors

0:56:07 > 0:56:12who reached out from this shore to Britain and beyond.

0:56:12 > 0:56:16Records of their voyages were written down in the great Norse sagas.

0:56:16 > 0:56:20Reading about it is all very well.

0:56:20 > 0:56:24But if I really want to find out about how the Vikings got around,

0:56:24 > 0:56:26I've to get aboard one of these.

0:56:26 > 0:56:32This beautiful clinker-built longship is modern, but it's made to an ancient blueprint,

0:56:32 > 0:56:38and the feeling on board is authentic and timeless.

0:56:38 > 0:56:41HE SINGS IN NORWEGIAN

0:56:42 > 0:56:47On a Viking longship on a fjord in Norway, brilliant.

0:56:47 > 0:56:50HE SINGS IN NORWEGIAN

0:56:54 > 0:57:00Listening to the old Viking song, I'm reminded of what we've found on our trip to Norway.

0:57:02 > 0:57:05That memories of our shared histories across the North Sea

0:57:05 > 0:57:10keep this country and our own fundamentally linked.

0:57:12 > 0:57:16Our landscapes shaped by ice...

0:57:16 > 0:57:18our common thirst for energy...

0:57:18 > 0:57:20our reliance on the sea.

0:57:25 > 0:57:27And the bond of blood between seafaring folk

0:57:27 > 0:57:31whose lives have touched in friendship and in war.