Marine Reserve

0:00:31 > 0:00:33This is one of the most spectacular

0:00:33 > 0:00:37wildlife reserves anywhere in the UK.

0:00:40 > 0:00:43The gateway to the reserve

0:00:43 > 0:00:46is the sleepy little fishing village of St Abbs.

0:00:46 > 0:00:48The dramatic cliffs are impressive enough

0:00:48 > 0:00:51but it's the underwater landscape that's so special.

0:00:51 > 0:00:54It's Scotland's only official Marine Reserve.

0:00:58 > 0:01:02Miranda Krestovnikoff is about to do one of the best dives in the UK.

0:01:04 > 0:01:08The Marine Reserve starts here at St Abbs Head,

0:01:08 > 0:01:10and stretches about a mile out to sea,

0:01:10 > 0:01:13and then all the way down the coastline to Eyemouth,

0:01:13 > 0:01:16which is just visible behind the headland.

0:01:20 > 0:01:24A driving force behind the Marine Reserve's protected status

0:01:24 > 0:01:28is writer, and underwater photographer, Lawson Wood.

0:01:31 > 0:01:34This is just such a beautiful spot.

0:01:34 > 0:01:38What makes this place so special? Why is it unique?

0:01:38 > 0:01:43We actually have a colder water current from the Artic,

0:01:43 > 0:01:47but we also have an arm of the warm waters off the Gulf Stream.

0:01:47 > 0:01:50This has created a huge number of Marine habitats.

0:01:50 > 0:01:54Where, exactly, are we diving? Can we actually see the spot from up here?

0:01:54 > 0:01:57The rocks off of the end of the harbour here, these are just

0:01:57 > 0:02:00the tips of a reef that runs around to a site we call Cathedral Rock.

0:02:00 > 0:02:03It's actually two massive archways under the water,

0:02:03 > 0:02:06- and that's where we're going to be going.- Great!

0:02:09 > 0:02:12Cathedral Rock is only just beyond the harbour.

0:02:14 > 0:02:18But it's one of the must-see dives in the UK.

0:02:18 > 0:02:22'The visibility here is really good.'

0:02:27 > 0:02:32Diving in these conditions is like swimming in a well-kept fish tank.

0:02:32 > 0:02:36And being a protected area, there should be plenty of wildlife to spot.

0:02:39 > 0:02:45Even what looks like a barren sea floor is a sub-aquatic Serengeti.

0:02:45 > 0:02:49'The floor down here is just a carpet of brittlestars.'

0:02:49 > 0:02:52'You can see them all feeding,

0:02:52 > 0:02:55'with their arms raised up catching food as it flows by.'

0:02:56 > 0:03:00Brittlestars gather in huge numbers for protection.

0:03:00 > 0:03:04They link arms and intertwine to prevent strong currents

0:03:04 > 0:03:05sweeping them away.

0:03:07 > 0:03:11But huddling together doesn't always keep them safe.

0:03:11 > 0:03:15There's a seven-arm starfish on the prowl.

0:03:15 > 0:03:20It glides along the seabed with its hundreds of tube feet,

0:03:20 > 0:03:22and it has an appetite for brittlestars.

0:03:22 > 0:03:24'They're really scared.

0:03:24 > 0:03:27'They're moving really fast.'

0:03:31 > 0:03:35It's the incredible variety of life we're seeing on the approach

0:03:35 > 0:03:40to Cathedral Rock that marks this as a unique gathering place.

0:03:44 > 0:03:49A squat lobster is hiding his vivid colours among the rocks,

0:03:49 > 0:03:52they're locals here, and in the Mediterranean.

0:03:52 > 0:03:54'Just look at those colours.

0:03:54 > 0:03:58'They are so vibrant. That lovely, iridescent blue.'

0:04:03 > 0:04:07'Well, Miranda, look at this. We have an angler fish.'

0:04:08 > 0:04:13St Abbs is a haven for the good, the bad and the ugly.

0:04:13 > 0:04:15The angler fish is the kind of creature

0:04:15 > 0:04:18that inspires tales of sea monsters.

0:04:19 > 0:04:21This is one cunning fisherman.

0:04:21 > 0:04:25Its frontal spine has evolved to look like food,

0:04:25 > 0:04:29bait enticing victims towards its cavernous mouth.

0:04:29 > 0:04:32Bigger angler fish can get really greedy.

0:04:32 > 0:04:37Some have even been found with the remains of seabirds inside them.

0:04:37 > 0:04:40'Usually these fish end up in fishermen's nets.'

0:04:40 > 0:04:44'Yes, they're actually sold as monkfish.'

0:04:44 > 0:04:47'I'd hate to be on the receiving end of a bite from that fish.'

0:04:47 > 0:04:54CHORAL MUSIC

0:04:54 > 0:04:57We've reached the heart of Cathedral Rock.

0:04:57 > 0:05:00Its great arches draw you in.

0:05:02 > 0:05:06'Stunning archways, they are huge!'

0:05:06 > 0:05:11These silent guardians have been here for millions of years,

0:05:11 > 0:05:15but the creatures that live amongst them are far more fragile.

0:05:20 > 0:05:25St Abbs is offered some protection by its Marine Reserve status,

0:05:25 > 0:05:29but it's only policed by voluntary good will.

0:05:29 > 0:05:33Surely it's time for the law to properly safeguard

0:05:33 > 0:05:36more of the special environments around our coast.

0:05:56 > 0:06:00We're heading towards North Berwick, at the mouth of the Firth of Forth.

0:06:00 > 0:06:03A huge gash leading deep inland.

0:06:08 > 0:06:11This maritime gateway has a formidable gatekeeper,

0:06:11 > 0:06:14the Bass Rock.

0:06:14 > 0:06:18Once upon a time, the site of one of Scotland's most notorious prisons.

0:06:22 > 0:06:27From a distance, the island appears to be dusted with snow.

0:06:27 > 0:06:29It's only on closer inspection

0:06:29 > 0:06:32that you realise that its colouring comes from birds.

0:06:32 > 0:06:35100,000 or so brilliant white gannets,

0:06:35 > 0:06:38and their slightly less brilliant white droppings.

0:06:40 > 0:06:44It's easy enough from the birds to get on and off of the Bass Rock,

0:06:44 > 0:06:46but it's not so easy for me, which,

0:06:46 > 0:06:50let's face it, is what made it such a a good prison.

0:06:52 > 0:06:56Enemies of the state were sent to rot on the rock in the 17th century.

0:06:56 > 0:07:01It holds a sinister fascination for me.

0:07:01 > 0:07:04I've wanted to set foot on it for ages to get a taste

0:07:04 > 0:07:05of its grim isolation.

0:07:06 > 0:07:10In fact, this will be the third time I've tried to get out

0:07:10 > 0:07:12to the Bass Rock while filming for Coast.

0:07:12 > 0:07:15Rough seas have wrecked my plans every time.

0:07:15 > 0:07:18Maybe today I'll be lucky.

0:07:18 > 0:07:20I'm hitching a ride with Ian Baird

0:07:20 > 0:07:23who works for the Scottish Seabird Centre.

0:07:24 > 0:07:26- Ian.- Neil, how are you doing?

0:07:26 > 0:07:30- Very well. Off to the Rock? - Absolutely, ready to go.- Great!

0:07:30 > 0:07:33He's made the trip out to the rock many times,

0:07:33 > 0:07:36but visiting the birds is never routine.

0:07:37 > 0:07:40The gannets have all left for the winter,

0:07:40 > 0:07:43but right now, their home base is looking idyllic.

0:07:46 > 0:07:47Why do gannets like it out there?

0:07:47 > 0:07:50We're in a really good fish area for them, plenty of food.

0:07:50 > 0:07:53We've got an island away from the mainland,

0:07:53 > 0:07:57so they don't have any land based predators to worry about.

0:07:57 > 0:07:59They also need these big, high imposing cliffs.

0:07:59 > 0:08:03The thermals that come up against the rocks give them that little

0:08:03 > 0:08:05extra lift they need to take off.

0:08:05 > 0:08:08As you well know, I've turned up at North Berwick three times

0:08:08 > 0:08:10looking to get out there.

0:08:10 > 0:08:13How do you fancy my chances today of actually stepping foot on it?

0:08:13 > 0:08:18We'll see what it's like when we get out there, but the swell is already

0:08:18 > 0:08:22bigger than we anticipated from the coastline so we'll just have to see.

0:08:22 > 0:08:24If we do get on, do we face the prospect

0:08:24 > 0:08:26- of being prisoners ourselves? - I hope not!

0:08:26 > 0:08:28Not able to get back on the boat?

0:08:28 > 0:08:31It might happen, we'll just have to watch ourselves there!

0:08:31 > 0:08:36It's over 300 years since prisoners were held on the rock.

0:08:36 > 0:08:41The dungeons were buried long ago beneath the lighthouse.

0:08:41 > 0:08:44A few remaining ruins blend into the cliffs.

0:08:44 > 0:08:46To see any traces of the old prison

0:08:46 > 0:08:49you have to actually set foot on the Rock.

0:08:51 > 0:08:55Easier said than done.

0:09:01 > 0:09:04We're about halfway out, and it's as if the Rock knows we're coming.

0:09:06 > 0:09:12There's a dangerous swell building, and warnings of storm-force winds.

0:09:17 > 0:09:21Before I know it, our skipper, Dougie, pulls the plug.

0:09:22 > 0:09:24Time to turn back.

0:09:24 > 0:09:27Yet again, the Rock has pushed me away.

0:09:29 > 0:09:32That is one unwelcoming rock!

0:09:32 > 0:09:36I know. Looking at this, you'd never believe what we'd just been out in.

0:09:36 > 0:09:38It's still like that out there.

0:09:38 > 0:09:41- I think it's perfect timing on my part.- Absolutely.

0:09:41 > 0:09:44- I don't think you're ever going to get onto the Rock!- That's a jail!

0:09:44 > 0:09:47I can't even break in, never mind break out!

0:09:47 > 0:09:50Subtitling by Red Bee Media Ltd