0:00:24 > 0:00:27Today I'm on a journey along the Great Glen of Scotland,
0:00:27 > 0:00:30following the Caledonian Canal as it weaves its way
0:00:30 > 0:00:32from the Atlantic in the west
0:00:32 > 0:00:34through to the North Sea in the east.
0:00:34 > 0:00:36I'll be travelling the length of the canal,
0:00:36 > 0:00:40starting from high above Fort William on Aonach Mor mountain
0:00:40 > 0:00:43through Neptune's Staircase, across Loch Oich and Loch Ness
0:00:43 > 0:00:45and up to Chanonry Point in the north-east.
0:00:45 > 0:00:48From there, I'll head out into the Moray Firth.
0:00:48 > 0:00:51Along the way, I'll be looking back at the very best
0:00:51 > 0:00:54of the BBC's rural archive from this part of the world.
0:00:54 > 0:00:56Welcome to Country Tracks.
0:01:07 > 0:01:10I'm starting my journey by heading to the top of Aonach Mor
0:01:10 > 0:01:13on this amazing gondola system to take in the breath-taking views
0:01:13 > 0:01:16of the Great Glen and the canal that runs through it.
0:01:16 > 0:01:21Think of a canal and you'll probably picture flat towpaths through gentle countryside,
0:01:21 > 0:01:24or murky strips of water running through our industrial cities.
0:01:24 > 0:01:27The Caledonian Canal, which runs for just over 60 miles
0:01:27 > 0:01:31along the Great Glen of Scotland, is only one third man made.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34The rest is provided by nature - Loch Lochy...
0:01:34 > 0:01:36Loch Oich...
0:01:36 > 0:01:38and Loch Ness.
0:01:43 > 0:01:46The gondola was originally built to lift skiers up to the slopes,
0:01:46 > 0:01:48but now it's widely used as a short cut
0:01:48 > 0:01:50for climbers and mountain bikers.
0:01:52 > 0:01:54The 80 cabins run on a continuous steel cable,
0:01:54 > 0:01:57which itself weighs 40 tons.
0:01:57 > 0:02:00I'm being supported by 18 pylons, two masts
0:02:00 > 0:02:05and two stations at either end, anchored in 200 tons of concrete.
0:02:10 > 0:02:13It's actually quite a serious hill, this one.
0:02:13 > 0:02:16In fact, it's the eighth highest peak in Scotland.
0:02:16 > 0:02:21I've just climbed over 2,000 feet, and I did it in about 14 minutes.
0:02:29 > 0:02:32Starting my journey up here is a great way to get my bearings.
0:02:32 > 0:02:36Can't quite see, but just round to my left is Ben Nevis.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40Then if you look across that loch on a good day, you can see the Inner Hebrides.
0:02:40 > 0:02:45But the most important bit, and very exciting too, is I can see the route I'm about to take.
0:02:45 > 0:02:50The Caledonian Canal winds its way through the start of the Great Glen here in front of me,
0:02:50 > 0:02:52and I can even catch a glimpse of Loch Lochy.
0:02:55 > 0:02:58The paths carved into the side of Aonach Mor
0:02:58 > 0:03:01are mountain bike tracks made for the crazy folk who get their
0:03:01 > 0:03:06pleasure from racing headlong down this steep and treacherous descent.
0:03:06 > 0:03:09Adam Henson took on the challenge in the forest beneath me.
0:03:09 > 0:03:12A few miles from the canal is Leanachan Forest.
0:03:12 > 0:03:16It's got four world-class championship courses,
0:03:16 > 0:03:20including cross-country and the heart-stopping downhill.
0:03:22 > 0:03:26To show me around is mountain biker and Forestry Commission officer, Sarah McClellan.
0:03:26 > 0:03:28Which part are we going to do today?
0:03:28 > 0:03:31We're going to do the cross-country course.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34It's about 8.5 kilometres and it'll take about an hour.
0:03:34 > 0:03:38The athletes do it in 22 minutes per lap and they do six laps, so...
0:03:38 > 0:03:40Crikey! Is it pretty tough for a novice like me?
0:03:40 > 0:03:44Yeah, it's a red grade so there's enough to get your teeth into.
0:03:44 > 0:03:46You'd want to do some other mountain biking if this was
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- going to be your first, you wouldn't dive straight into this.- Let's get to it!
0:04:04 > 0:04:05Oh! Ha, ha!
0:04:07 > 0:04:10- That's so hard!- Yes, pretty tough.
0:04:10 > 0:04:13So what's the technique?
0:04:13 > 0:04:17You've got to slide your bottom right forward on the saddle.
0:04:17 > 0:04:21It doesn't sound very comfortable and it isn't, but it's the only way to do it.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33I soon discovered muscles I didn't even know I had.
0:04:37 > 0:04:39Control the speed, it's not too scary.
0:04:39 > 0:04:41If you let it go, it can be.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56Sarah, that was quite a climb!
0:04:56 > 0:04:59A magnificent view making it all worthwhile.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03- Pretty spectacular.- That looks fairly extreme, going down.
0:05:03 > 0:05:06This is our black section on the cross-country trails.
0:05:06 > 0:05:08What's the technique?
0:05:08 > 0:05:15Weight back off the saddle, level pedals, feathering the brakes gently so just squeezing gently.
0:05:15 > 0:05:16No grabbing of the brakes.
0:05:16 > 0:05:20- I'll follow you. I'll try not to scream too much!- OK!
0:05:20 > 0:05:22Are you sure about this? Remember it's black.
0:05:22 > 0:05:25In for a penny, in for a pound.
0:05:35 > 0:05:37Woah!
0:05:37 > 0:05:39'If at first you don't succeed...'
0:05:47 > 0:05:49Ha-hey! THEY LAUGH
0:05:56 > 0:05:59My route downhill has been much more sedate. I've come down from
0:05:59 > 0:06:03the mountain to the beginning of the Caledonian Canal at Corpach basin
0:06:03 > 0:06:06to sail through Neptune's Staircase.
0:06:07 > 0:06:11This impressive feat of engineering is essentially a ladder of eight lochs
0:06:11 > 0:06:16which raises vessels travelling along the canal to a height of 70ft above sea level.
0:06:16 > 0:06:18Skipper Mike Lofts has invited me aboard.
0:06:18 > 0:06:21Obviously, the best way to see Neptune's Staircase is to travel up it
0:06:21 > 0:06:25so I'm joining this boat, aptly named The Caledonian.
0:06:28 > 0:06:32- Hi, Mike.- Hi, Joe.- You're our skipper for the day.- I am.
0:06:32 > 0:06:36This looks quite exciting ahead of us. Are we approaching it now?
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- Yes, this is Neptune's Staircase. - Wow.
0:06:39 > 0:06:43It's actually so close together, you can see all the levels going up.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46What's the importance of this?
0:06:46 > 0:06:48The importance is manifold really,
0:06:48 > 0:06:51it's to save ships going round the top of Scotland.
0:06:51 > 0:06:54It's the short cut through, which is a lot safer,
0:06:54 > 0:06:58and also for the Royal Navy during the Napoleonic wars.
0:06:58 > 0:07:02It helped the Navy to hide from the French so they could surprise them on attack.
0:07:02 > 0:07:07So they would just bring their ships inland and hide here, and then pop out when the French came along?
0:07:07 > 0:07:10- Yes, and attack.- It sounds so simple. - Yep, marvellous.
0:07:10 > 0:07:14Because these guys, these are hefty sea-going vessels, aren't they?
0:07:14 > 0:07:16Would they be doing what you said,
0:07:16 > 0:07:18doing a short cut instead of going all the way round Scotland?
0:07:18 > 0:07:21Yes, but also doing the Caledonian Canal as a tourist attraction.
0:07:21 > 0:07:24Was there another way of doing this? Because at some point,
0:07:24 > 0:07:28somebody stood at the bottom and said, "We should make the river go up that hill,"
0:07:28 > 0:07:30which must have seemed ambitious.
0:07:30 > 0:07:33Was this the only possible route to link up the lochs?
0:07:33 > 0:07:36It was Thomas Telford who designed it. He did his studies
0:07:36 > 0:07:39and reported back, and he had the all clear to build it.
0:07:39 > 0:07:41Now we've got this fine structure.
0:07:41 > 0:07:44It's incredible, it must have taken some time to build back then.
0:07:44 > 0:07:46Yes, he started in 1801 and finished in 1822.
0:07:46 > 0:07:50- Right.- They thought they would do it in six years, but they were wrong!
0:07:50 > 0:07:53So 21 years later and three times the budget...
0:07:53 > 0:07:57- Ouch.- But it's complete. - The Millennium Dome of its day!
0:07:57 > 0:07:59That's the one!
0:07:59 > 0:08:02I suppose, I mean, it's such a beautiful setting,
0:08:02 > 0:08:07this must be one of the most picturesque lock networks ever.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10We're kind of in the shadow of Ben Nevis there, aren't we?
0:08:10 > 0:08:12Yes, Ben Nevis just in the distance there.
0:08:12 > 0:08:16Absolutely beautiful. A lot of people must come through just to do the route.
0:08:16 > 0:08:19Without a doubt, yes. It's part of Great Glen Way as well
0:08:19 > 0:08:24so cycleways, walkways, it's used by a lot of people.
0:08:24 > 0:08:28As we go up here, am I going to be able to have a go at opening some of the lochs?
0:08:28 > 0:08:30- Sure, course you are. - Is that OK?- Yes.
0:08:30 > 0:08:34That's good! And if I'm really good, you might let me drive the boat?
0:08:34 > 0:08:36Erm, yeah!
0:08:36 > 0:08:39You look nervous, suddenly sweating! Gosh!
0:08:39 > 0:08:42We've got two crew on board, a guy at the front, a guy at the back,
0:08:42 > 0:08:45both have got ropes, but are we being flanked by your heavies?
0:08:45 > 0:08:47No, these are the boat's crew.
0:08:47 > 0:08:50We have a guy to tend the bowline and a guy to tend the stern line
0:08:50 > 0:08:56so when we come into the locks, we can throw the lines ashore and bring the boat safely against the wall.
0:09:04 > 0:09:06Hi. Raymond?
0:09:06 > 0:09:07- Yes.- Hi, I'm Joe.- Hi, Joe.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10- I believe you're the lock keeper here?- I am.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12What are you looking out for now?
0:09:12 > 0:09:15The sluices have been opened now and the water has levelled off.
0:09:15 > 0:09:20- When the disturbance stops there, I know we can open the gate. - So the pressure is equal?
0:09:20 > 0:09:22Yes. The gates won't open unless they're equal.
0:09:22 > 0:09:25Got you. Is that what you're looking for? That looks still.
0:09:25 > 0:09:27That's calm so we can go and open it.
0:09:28 > 0:09:31- So this is the magic box of controls?- Yes.
0:09:31 > 0:09:33- It looks quite simple.- It is, yes.
0:09:33 > 0:09:35So what do you do next?
0:09:35 > 0:09:36First thing, power on.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39OK, now open the gates.
0:09:39 > 0:09:43This lever here, this lever here, up and your two gates open.
0:09:43 > 0:09:45- And they fully open?- They will, yes.
0:09:45 > 0:09:48- Keep the levers up until it's fully open.- So I can do that?
0:09:48 > 0:09:50- Yes.- Here we go then.
0:09:53 > 0:09:55- The gate is opening.- One going there.
0:10:10 > 0:10:13So the boats are all through.
0:10:13 > 0:10:15Yes, close the gate.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18- So this time...?- The lever down and the gates will shut.
0:10:18 > 0:10:21There we go, getting the hang of this!
0:10:27 > 0:10:30So will they just stop when they come together?
0:10:30 > 0:10:31No, when they come together,
0:10:31 > 0:10:35you'll see them vibrate slightly and you'll know that they're shut then.
0:10:36 > 0:10:39- Very good.- And switch off.
0:10:39 > 0:10:41- Just like that.- Thanks, Raymond.
0:10:41 > 0:10:45- You're welcome.- Probably leave the next five or six to you!- OK.
0:10:51 > 0:10:54It looks like we've come to the end, is that correct?
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- Yes, this is the top of the staircase.- Very good.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00A quick favour to ask, do you mind if I have a go on the old captain's wheel?
0:11:00 > 0:11:06- Sure, come on in.- Excellent. So everyone is pulling away... - Yes, you've got a back thruster.
0:11:06 > 0:11:09- Yes.- You need to use it. It's nice and clear.
0:11:09 > 0:11:11The crew are clear, that's good news.
0:11:11 > 0:11:15The throttle on the right. One click to just engage the engine.
0:11:16 > 0:11:18- There we go.- If you find you're going too fast,
0:11:18 > 0:11:21- pull it back into neutral.- Got you.
0:11:21 > 0:11:24The back thrusters will only work when the engine is in neutral.
0:11:24 > 0:11:26Just to push away from the sides?
0:11:26 > 0:11:29Yes. As you can see, you're coming into the side now.
0:11:29 > 0:11:34Wind it round. Quick hard. That's it, you find it's responding,
0:11:34 > 0:11:37and then get back again on to the port.
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- There you go, that's fine. - Very good.
0:11:41 > 0:11:43Step it up one.
0:11:43 > 0:11:46# When the weather is fine
0:11:46 > 0:11:48# Then you know it's a sign
0:11:48 > 0:11:52# For messing about on the river. #
0:11:52 > 0:11:54I think I'll leave the skippering to Mike,
0:11:54 > 0:11:56but if we keep going in this direction,
0:11:56 > 0:11:59we'll eventually get to Loch Lochy and then Loch Oich.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07This is Loch Oich in the Scottish Highlands.
0:12:07 > 0:12:09At four miles long,
0:12:09 > 0:12:12it's the smallest of three lochs found in the Great Glen.
0:12:12 > 0:12:16Its neighbours are Loch Lochy and the infamous Loch Ness.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19The Highland lochs are stunning at this time of year
0:12:19 > 0:12:21with their autumn colours, in spite of the weather.
0:12:21 > 0:12:27This area is renowned for its wildlife, much of which is rare or extinct elsewhere in Britain.
0:12:27 > 0:12:30Because the human population in the Highlands is so sparse,
0:12:30 > 0:12:36this ensures that the wildlife is allowed to thrive, making it a haven for lovers of nature.
0:12:36 > 0:12:41Tourists and locals alike flock to the area, attracted by its flora and fauna.
0:12:41 > 0:12:45Many stroll through the forests enjoying the peace, tranquillity
0:12:45 > 0:12:48and chance to take things at their own pace.
0:12:48 > 0:12:49But the local forest rangers
0:12:49 > 0:12:52have come up with an altogether more adventurous way
0:12:52 > 0:12:54of seeing their local wildlife.
0:13:02 > 0:13:04You can forget the conventional walks.
0:13:04 > 0:13:08The latest way of seeing the Scottish woodlands is from the water.
0:13:08 > 0:13:13Hi, Adele. You're the inspiration behind Woods From The Water tours.
0:13:13 > 0:13:16- How did you come up with that idea? - It's during my time working
0:13:16 > 0:13:19for the Forestry Commission as a forester over the last seven years.
0:13:19 > 0:13:24I've learned to think not just about growing trees, but about the wider picture.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28I'm a very keen canoeist myself, and I'm lucky enough to live and work in the forest.
0:13:28 > 0:13:31It just seemed a natural way of linking the two.
0:13:31 > 0:13:36Does it mean that people who aren't all that keen on walking can just sit in a canoe?
0:13:36 > 0:13:38Yes, and it's still good for you.
0:13:38 > 0:13:41It's healthy, it's a good way to enjoy the environment.
0:13:41 > 0:13:43You get an excellent view of the forest from the water.
0:13:43 > 0:13:46You get into areas that are inaccessible any other way
0:13:46 > 0:13:50so you can see some good relics of ancient semi-natural woodland.
0:13:50 > 0:13:51You can also see wildlife,
0:13:51 > 0:13:55and just the beautiful remote forest we see around us.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58It's a good way of seeing the forest.
0:14:09 > 0:14:13For this wildlife trip, you can leave your hiking boots at home.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16You need your waterproofs and your life jacket.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22Great.
0:14:25 > 0:14:29My canoe partner is local wildlife ranger, Jeff Dymond.
0:14:29 > 0:14:31More used to life on dry land,
0:14:31 > 0:14:35Jeff has recently taken to the water to guide the tours.
0:14:35 > 0:14:40Is it a good way to see the forest and the wildlife from the canoe then?
0:14:42 > 0:14:45Yes, the beauty about going from the canoe is that
0:14:45 > 0:14:48wildlife doesn't associate danger from man coming from the loch.
0:14:48 > 0:14:51With a large group of people like we have here today,
0:14:51 > 0:14:55you can get quite close to animals that are very shy,
0:14:55 > 0:14:56like the otter.
0:14:56 > 0:14:58The wild deer tend to come to the loch side
0:14:58 > 0:15:00because of the richness of the silt
0:15:00 > 0:15:02that has been deposited over the years -
0:15:02 > 0:15:05it creates a very good vegetation.
0:15:05 > 0:15:09You can see deer in this area, like sika, red deer and roe deer.
0:15:10 > 0:15:11At this time of year,
0:15:11 > 0:15:14it's rutting season for the deer so they're very vocal.
0:15:14 > 0:15:17Jeff has his own unique way of attracting their attention.
0:15:17 > 0:15:21Everybody get ready because they can swim as well so...here we go.
0:15:21 > 0:15:23LENGTHY HIGH-PITCHED SQUEALING
0:15:32 > 0:15:35o far, no reply from the hills. Maybe I'll have more luck.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37SHORTER SQUEAL
0:15:37 > 0:15:40I think I've got a bit of a sore throat!
0:15:40 > 0:15:42I think there's a duck coming!
0:15:55 > 0:15:57And what is this up here?
0:15:57 > 0:16:01It's Invergarry Castle. It was a stronghold of the MacDonnells.
0:16:01 > 0:16:04They were a very fierce, warlike clan
0:16:04 > 0:16:06and they exploited the woodlands
0:16:06 > 0:16:07in their time here.
0:16:14 > 0:16:17I've been 29 years as a ranger in the wilderness
0:16:17 > 0:16:18and I'm seeing things
0:16:18 > 0:16:21that even I haven't seen before from the loch side.
0:16:32 > 0:16:36There's more to the tour than going in search of wildlife on the banks of Loch Oich.
0:16:36 > 0:16:39As well as highlighting the value of the Scottish woodland,
0:16:39 > 0:16:43the Forestry Commission also teaches people how to respect it.
0:16:43 > 0:16:48If people get into a place and they learn about it and they grow to love it, they'll look after it.
0:16:48 > 0:16:53More practically, we're doing things like teaching people to camp more sensitively.
0:16:53 > 0:16:56One thing we want to try to avoid is, for instance people camping,
0:16:56 > 0:17:00leaving behind fire sites, bottles, that type of thing.
0:17:00 > 0:17:02The idea is you go into a place, enjoy it,
0:17:02 > 0:17:05and then leave it exactly as you found it.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08The final part of the tour is a welcome, warming supper,
0:17:08 > 0:17:11cooked over a forest friendly camp fire.
0:17:11 > 0:17:14- Why did you want to come along on this trip?- I think it was the fact
0:17:14 > 0:17:19that we had adventure and a chance to see some wildlife,
0:17:19 > 0:17:23led by experts that knew what they were talking about and could show us what to look for.
0:17:23 > 0:17:27What things have you seen from the water that you wouldn't otherwise
0:17:27 > 0:17:28had you been walking on land?
0:17:28 > 0:17:32We got quite close to a swan that came right up to the canoe.
0:17:32 > 0:17:34We saw other bits and bobs of wildlife,
0:17:34 > 0:17:36but it's just fine being on the water,
0:17:36 > 0:17:39looking at the forest from a different perspective.
0:17:39 > 0:17:42We haven't seen a huge amount, but you can't expect to see everything.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45No, that's the beauty of looking for wildlife.
0:17:45 > 0:17:47It's elusive, and if you saw it every day,
0:17:47 > 0:17:49you wouldn't enjoy what you did see.
0:17:49 > 0:17:52Look at this, just to finish the day off nicely,
0:17:52 > 0:17:54some thick Scottish broth! Who's got the whisky?
0:17:58 > 0:18:01Food and a camp fire sound pretty good to me,
0:18:01 > 0:18:04especially with the weather starting to turn.
0:18:04 > 0:18:09But for now, I have taken to two wheels to enjoy the shores of this breathtaking loch.
0:18:15 > 0:18:18I am heading north along the Caledonian Canal
0:18:18 > 0:18:22following the edge of Loch Oich towards Loch Ness.
0:18:22 > 0:18:27Loch Oich is just over four miles long, making it the shortest of the Great Glen Lochs.
0:18:27 > 0:18:31Not to be outdone, it is the highest of the three
0:18:31 > 0:18:33at just over 100ft above sea level.
0:18:41 > 0:18:46Well, Adam's adventure looked very nice, but I'm after something a little bit faster,
0:18:46 > 0:18:50something you wouldn't normally expect on a loch in Scotland.
0:18:53 > 0:18:55I'm going water-skiing.
0:18:55 > 0:18:57There's loads of activities you can do here on Loch Oich,
0:18:57 > 0:19:00but I've never tried water-skiing before
0:19:00 > 0:19:02so I'm all kitted up and ready to get stuck in.
0:19:16 > 0:19:19First up I need to get to grips with balancing on water
0:19:19 > 0:19:21so I'm starting off on what's called the boom.
0:19:29 > 0:19:34This feels fantastic! It feels surprisingly natural.
0:19:34 > 0:19:36I'm almost trying hard to concentrate
0:19:36 > 0:19:40because I'm just taken in by this incredible beauty all around.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42It's quite a surreal experience.
0:19:48 > 0:19:51It's almost relaxing. I didn't expect to say that,
0:19:51 > 0:19:53but you're kind of just sitting down on it.
0:20:03 > 0:20:05What did I say about sitting down on it?!
0:20:05 > 0:20:06You're pretty good,
0:20:06 > 0:20:09I think you're ready. Do you fancy a go on the short rope?
0:20:09 > 0:20:12Yes, graduating to the short rope!
0:20:18 > 0:20:20Go.
0:20:23 > 0:20:25I'm almost doing it properly!
0:20:47 > 0:20:52Well, that was absolutely fantastic. I'm still grinning from ear to ear.
0:20:52 > 0:20:56It was so much fun! To do it in such a beautiful location,
0:20:56 > 0:20:59I'm pretty sure I could stay here all day, but I can't.
0:20:59 > 0:21:03Onwards with the journey. Next up, Loch Ness.
0:21:09 > 0:21:13Loch Ness is one of the most famous lakes in the world,
0:21:13 > 0:21:15not just for its outstanding beauty.
0:21:15 > 0:21:19It's big, it's the largest lake in Scotland by volume
0:21:19 > 0:21:21and second only to Loch Lomond by area.
0:21:21 > 0:21:25But it's the depth of this vast expanse of water which astounds people
0:21:25 > 0:21:30and which provides a fertile setting for the myths and mysteries which surround this magical place.
0:21:35 > 0:21:38So there it is, the famous Loch Ness.
0:21:38 > 0:21:44It's one of these places you learn about as a kid at school. I can't believe I've never been before.
0:21:44 > 0:21:46It's fantastic. I'm quite glad I'm seeing it now
0:21:46 > 0:21:48because this light looks beautiful.
0:21:48 > 0:21:51But there's also patches of mist and cloud.
0:21:51 > 0:21:53It looks a bit eerie, mysterious,
0:21:53 > 0:21:56which of course fits the reputation perfectly.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58I'm certainly not disappointed.
0:21:58 > 0:22:03So not only is it legendary, it's simply stunning.
0:22:03 > 0:22:04What else can you say?
0:22:17 > 0:22:18On a glorious autumn morning,
0:22:18 > 0:22:22I'm taking a boat ride in a northerly direction towards Inverness.
0:22:22 > 0:22:29My companion is a man who's spent many years studying the mysterious loch in all its moods.
0:22:31 > 0:22:32We're sitting in the middle
0:22:32 > 0:22:36of what I believe is Britain's most significant geographical feature -
0:22:36 > 0:22:38the Great Glen of Scotland.
0:22:38 > 0:22:40Divides Scotland in half.
0:22:40 > 0:22:44At one end is Britain's highest mountain, Ben Nevis, to the south
0:22:44 > 0:22:47and here is Britain's greatest lake, Loch Ness.
0:22:47 > 0:22:49And just how deep is it?
0:22:49 > 0:22:51230 metres. A bit hard to visualise
0:22:51 > 0:22:56but if you were sitting in the restaurant that used to be at the top of the Telecom Tower in London,
0:22:56 > 0:22:58then that would be underneath us now.
0:22:58 > 0:23:02The rest would be water. Talking of water,
0:23:02 > 0:23:05it's actually in volume that Loch Ness is truly pre-eminent.
0:23:05 > 0:23:10It's got more water in it than the whole of England and Wales put together.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13This great volume causes what's called thermal inertia.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17No summer can warm Loch Ness up significantly, no winter can freeze it.
0:23:17 > 0:23:22In the wintertime, the water can be warmer than the air.
0:23:22 > 0:23:25This causes mirage close to the surface on calm days
0:23:25 > 0:23:30which tends to extend images of quite small things into quite tall things.
0:23:30 > 0:23:32What might he be hinting at?
0:23:32 > 0:23:35Ever since the first reports in the 1930s,
0:23:35 > 0:23:39searching for Nessie has almost become a national obsession.
0:23:39 > 0:23:42Special observation teams have been set up.
0:23:42 > 0:23:45Over the years, sightings have been dismissed as fakes,
0:23:45 > 0:23:49floating debris or bow waves from boats.
0:23:49 > 0:23:53That hasn't stopped the excitement and intrigue,
0:23:53 > 0:23:56and in the summer of 1967, a constant watch was kept on the loch
0:23:56 > 0:23:59and every unusual object was filmed.
0:23:59 > 0:24:03Still today, many people are convinced that they have seen something.
0:24:05 > 0:24:08We were sailing up the middle of the loch.
0:24:08 > 0:24:10We had gone just past this area
0:24:10 > 0:24:13and we were going up towards Urquhart Castle.
0:24:13 > 0:24:17All of a sudden, this black object rose up in the water.
0:24:17 > 0:24:22It just broke the surface and it just went straight across
0:24:22 > 0:24:25- the loch and disappeared. - How long was it?
0:24:25 > 0:24:28I would say it was about 25-30 foot.
0:24:28 > 0:24:33You couldn't tell which end was which, it was just like a hump.
0:24:33 > 0:24:37The one and only time that I'd seen it, whatever it was,
0:24:37 > 0:24:40we'd got the camera and we missed it.
0:24:40 > 0:24:42It's like a fatal attraction - once you know it's there,
0:24:42 > 0:24:44you've got to keep going and looking again!
0:24:44 > 0:24:48Christine dismisses the idea that what she saw was a bow wave.
0:24:48 > 0:24:53Despite all the scepticism, everyone who sees the loch with their own eyes
0:24:53 > 0:25:00must secretly wish that, from its deep, dark waters, something will suddenly emerge.
0:25:01 > 0:25:03No joy for John that time.
0:25:03 > 0:25:07Looks like Loch Ness won't be giving up its secrets any time soon.
0:25:07 > 0:25:11I'm travelling along Scotland's Caledonian Canal.
0:25:11 > 0:25:13I started out near Fort William,
0:25:13 > 0:25:17negotiated the locks at Neptune's Staircase and cycled past Loch Oich.
0:25:17 > 0:25:20Now I've reached Drumnadrochit on the shores of Loch Ness.
0:25:21 > 0:25:24There are many people who live and work the land near Loch Ness,
0:25:24 > 0:25:28but I'm heading to a farm to get a taste of real farm life.
0:25:31 > 0:25:36Caroline and Ian Urquhart live in a typical farmhouse with some remarkable views.
0:25:36 > 0:25:40They've signed up to the Farm Stay UK scheme which means they regularly
0:25:40 > 0:25:46take visitors into their B&B who want to try their hand at the farming way of life.
0:25:46 > 0:25:48This is where I come in.
0:25:48 > 0:25:51Hi. Ian, Caroline, hi, I'm Joe.
0:25:51 > 0:25:52Nice to meet you.
0:25:52 > 0:25:55- Come in.- Don't mind if I do! Thank you very much.
0:25:59 > 0:26:04After dumping my bag, I'm straight out in the rain to meet Ian's pride and joy -
0:26:04 > 0:26:08his herd of cattle stoically enduring the Highland weather.
0:26:08 > 0:26:10Ready to roll.
0:26:10 > 0:26:13Ian has gladly saved some work for me to do.
0:26:13 > 0:26:19We are kitted out with fly spray for the cows to keep the bugs off in the warm summer months.
0:26:19 > 0:26:21First, a little treat for one of his favourites.
0:26:21 > 0:26:23We'll start with Taggart.
0:26:23 > 0:26:27I'll introduce you to one of the more friendly animals on the farm.
0:26:27 > 0:26:32- This is Taggart.- Hello, Taggart. - I'll just tie that on there.
0:26:32 > 0:26:35What are we doing for Taggart today?
0:26:35 > 0:26:38Taggart likes to be hand fed and hand groomed.
0:26:38 > 0:26:43- Precious Taggart!- It's a bit of grooming for Taggart at this time.
0:26:43 > 0:26:46If you want to groom him anywhere, he's happy.
0:26:46 > 0:26:50- Is he going to be happy with this? - Oh, yes. ..That's a good boy.
0:26:50 > 0:26:51- Well done, Taggart.- There we go.
0:26:53 > 0:26:56The art of good husbandry is...
0:26:56 > 0:27:00healthy and happy animals so how content do you want?
0:27:00 > 0:27:04Is this to make him content or is this actually for a specific reason?
0:27:04 > 0:27:08If you were showing them, there would be a more specific reason,
0:27:08 > 0:27:12- but it's just contentment that this is all about.- Fantastic.
0:27:13 > 0:27:17Tell me about your farm. It's not a normal farm, is it?
0:27:17 > 0:27:19LAUGHTER
0:27:19 > 0:27:23It's... It's a mix of livestock
0:27:23 > 0:27:27and bed and breakfast which goes very well together
0:27:27 > 0:27:31because the visitors are interested in the working farm,
0:27:31 > 0:27:36and then they arrive here and find they've got the glorious scenery
0:27:36 > 0:27:39and Loch Ness all thrown in.
0:27:39 > 0:27:41It's a real bonus for them.
0:27:41 > 0:27:44What sort of people come and stay?
0:27:44 > 0:27:48Obviously, people who are interested in farm animals and how farms run?
0:27:48 > 0:27:52People from all the UK, Europe, worldwide.
0:27:52 > 0:27:55Quite a lot of farmers from abroad
0:27:55 > 0:27:59because they're interested in how we go about farming in the UK.
0:27:59 > 0:28:03Is that right? So when farmers take holidays, they go to other farms!
0:28:03 > 0:28:04I know, busman's holiday.
0:28:04 > 0:28:08It does happen. ..Good for you, Taggart.
0:28:08 > 0:28:10A little bit of a parting.
0:28:10 > 0:28:14Taggart was never this stylish! Maybe a little quiff...
0:28:15 > 0:28:17- Perfect. Look at that.- A bit like mine.
0:28:17 > 0:28:20What could be better? Well done, Joe.
0:28:20 > 0:28:22Such a bonny boy!
0:28:24 > 0:28:28Taggart is now one very happy, very pampered cow.
0:28:28 > 0:28:30Next up, warding off those flies.
0:28:32 > 0:28:37OK, so this is Hamish. He is first up for treatment.
0:28:37 > 0:28:42Basically, what you're doing is squeezing and moving at the same time.
0:28:42 > 0:28:47You want to get an entire dose of the swish along the back.
0:28:47 > 0:28:49- A nice, even coating? - A nice, even coating.
0:28:49 > 0:28:52- Then it spreads over the animal. - Excellent.
0:28:52 > 0:28:55What happens to Hamish? He comes out and we do the next one?
0:28:56 > 0:29:01- Absolutely perfect.- There, little swish of the tail to finish.- Great.
0:29:01 > 0:29:05- Now this is Hamish's mother. - Hamish's mother?- Come on, lass.
0:29:05 > 0:29:07OK.
0:29:14 > 0:29:16- Absolutely perfect.- There we go.
0:29:16 > 0:29:19- She doesn't have a name this one, is that right?- No.
0:29:19 > 0:29:23Since you're here, if you wish to name her...
0:29:23 > 0:29:25Well, I think we'll call her Flora.
0:29:25 > 0:29:27- Is that all right?- That's perfect.
0:29:27 > 0:29:30- We don't have a Flora on the farm at the moment.- That's perfect.
0:29:30 > 0:29:33- You had a Morag already, so she's going to be Flora.- That's good.
0:29:37 > 0:29:40- Come on, all the way. - She wants company.
0:29:40 > 0:29:42That's for sure.
0:29:44 > 0:29:48I think we might have earned ourselves a cup of tea?
0:29:48 > 0:29:52Well, also a wee dram of Ardbeg. LAUGHTER
0:29:52 > 0:29:55- You're twisting my arm. - It's traditional to
0:29:55 > 0:29:59have a wee shot of whisky after working heavily all day.
0:29:59 > 0:30:01In you come, Joe,
0:30:01 > 0:30:06- and Caroline's prepared some scones and something else.- Wow!
0:30:06 > 0:30:10You must be a mind reader, this is exactly what I feel like.
0:30:10 > 0:30:12- You'll be needing it after your journey?- Yeah!
0:30:12 > 0:30:14Just some scones I baked earlier on
0:30:14 > 0:30:17with cream and jam and that's clootie dumpling,
0:30:17 > 0:30:20- which is traditional up here served as a dessert.- Right.
0:30:20 > 0:30:21And then, the next day,
0:30:21 > 0:30:24- you fry it with bacon and have it with breakfast.- Fantastic.
0:30:24 > 0:30:29- You're being subjected to all our traditions.- Honoured, honoured.
0:30:29 > 0:30:32- You need some cream with it. - Do I? OK, great.
0:30:32 > 0:30:34- You like cream, yes?- Yes, go ahead.
0:30:34 > 0:30:37This is a treat, it's fantastic. This is just what I feel like,
0:30:37 > 0:30:40because I've been water-skiing, cycling and all sorts today.
0:30:40 > 0:30:42So you will be needing calories?
0:30:42 > 0:30:46Yes, calories in the cream and the scones are perfect.
0:30:46 > 0:30:51That's a cloth pudding. That's steamed for three hours in a cloth
0:30:51 > 0:30:56- in boiling water and it keeps for quite a long time.- Here we go.
0:31:00 > 0:31:03- Mmm! That's delicious, isn't it? - Do you like it?- Very nice.
0:31:03 > 0:31:08- And this is the perfect location for doing what you do, isn't it?- Yes.
0:31:08 > 0:31:12Looking out of your window to see Loch Ness behind us, and it's stunning.
0:31:12 > 0:31:17Well, people, I tend to have difficulty getting them out of the breakfast room in the morning.
0:31:17 > 0:31:20They just want to sit in here and look for Nessie.
0:31:20 > 0:31:23I've got to ask, have you ever seen Nessie?
0:31:23 > 0:31:25I've not seen Nessie,
0:31:25 > 0:31:29but my father, who was a great salmon fisher, saw it in the '50s.
0:31:29 > 0:31:32He saw something like a malformed reptile
0:31:32 > 0:31:34and he definitely did see it,
0:31:34 > 0:31:37he wasn't the type of person to say he did.
0:31:37 > 0:31:40He said it was about 30ft long. There was something there,
0:31:40 > 0:31:43I don't know if it still is, but I am a firm believer in Nessie.
0:31:43 > 0:31:46- A lot of people, they play it up, don't they?- Yes.
0:31:46 > 0:31:48But you believe that something...?
0:31:48 > 0:31:51I do believe there was something there of some type.
0:31:51 > 0:31:54I don't know if it still is. Lots of people come here,
0:31:54 > 0:31:55and come for the scenery as well,
0:31:55 > 0:31:59but at the back of their minds is a chance they might see Nessie.
0:31:59 > 0:32:02Sometimes they sit here with binoculars, especially children.
0:32:02 > 0:32:05At breakfast time, you can see them scoping it?
0:32:05 > 0:32:07"What's that in the loch?!" And it's a boat.
0:32:07 > 0:32:11But definitely, there certainly was something there.
0:32:11 > 0:32:13I didn't expect you to say that.
0:32:13 > 0:32:16'It's been great meeting Caroline and Ian and getting
0:32:16 > 0:32:20'an insight into life here on the edge of Loch Ness.
0:32:20 > 0:32:25'With a full stomach and a warm glow from the whisky, I'm continuing north towards Inverness.'
0:32:25 > 0:32:29I'd expect to see Highland cattle and Aberdeen Angus in Scotland,
0:32:29 > 0:32:34I didn't realise however that wild boar are becoming popular in some farmyards.
0:32:34 > 0:32:36Adam Henson saw them first hand.
0:32:38 > 0:32:40SNORTING AND SQUEALING
0:32:40 > 0:32:44'Six years ago, Lucinder Spicer swapped the bright lights
0:32:44 > 0:32:47'and expensive restaurants of the Square Mile to set up
0:32:47 > 0:32:53'one of Britain's most northerly wild boar farms in the remote hills near Inverness.'
0:32:53 > 0:32:56Why did you move out of central London to come to the Highlands?
0:32:56 > 0:32:59We'd always promised ourselves we wouldn't stay
0:32:59 > 0:33:03in London permanently and we got to the stage in our careers
0:33:03 > 0:33:08when it was OK to do so. So we upped sticks and moved.
0:33:08 > 0:33:12We wanted to do something that was economically in tune with where we were settling
0:33:12 > 0:33:16and everyone does sheep and cattle and that kind of thing, and we wanted
0:33:16 > 0:33:19to do something a bit different, wilder and alternative.
0:33:19 > 0:33:25- Did your friends think you were nuts?- They always have thought I was nuts!
0:33:25 > 0:33:28'Wild boar in the UK disappeared 300 years ago,
0:33:28 > 0:33:32'although farms like Lucinder's are helping bring them back.
0:33:32 > 0:33:35'These boar came from stock originally from the harsh wilds of Siberia.
0:33:35 > 0:33:38'They're a tough breed, as I was soon to find out.'
0:33:38 > 0:33:41You can see some lovely little piglets in there?
0:33:41 > 0:33:45Yeah, they are. There's 20 there with the four sows there.
0:33:45 > 0:33:52They're obviously feeding peacefully, but you can see Anthony moving up round the corner
0:33:52 > 0:33:56and he's coming in front to come between us and his family.
0:33:56 > 0:34:01Oh, and... Now he's tearing up the ground
0:34:01 > 0:34:04with his feet, so I think we need to...
0:34:04 > 0:34:08We need to just retreat and leave him to it.
0:34:09 > 0:34:14'Anthony, the father of these litters, quietly asserted himself to protect his family's space.
0:34:16 > 0:34:19'Thankfully, it was all show and no action.'
0:34:23 > 0:34:25How many wild boar have you got?
0:34:25 > 0:34:28On the farm at the moment, we've got 200,
0:34:28 > 0:34:33roughly 40 breeding stock and 160 which will go for meat this year.
0:34:33 > 0:34:38And then we've got 35 little ones that have been born in the last couple of weeks.
0:34:38 > 0:34:43- That's a lot of pigs, isn't it? - It is, and then more will arrive,
0:34:43 > 0:34:48so we could have up to 200 born this year, if we have successful farrowings.
0:34:48 > 0:34:52If I keep them in good condition, they'll farrow again in the summer,
0:34:52 > 0:34:55so they'll go twice through if the conditions are good.
0:34:55 > 0:34:58And to keep wild boar, you need a wild animals licence?
0:34:58 > 0:35:02You do. The councils in England, Wales and Scotland require you
0:35:02 > 0:35:05to be licensed under the Dangerous Wild Animals Act.
0:35:05 > 0:35:09And that's a statutory requirement.
0:35:09 > 0:35:14I notice you've got electric fencing, is that part of the Wild Animals Act criteria?
0:35:14 > 0:35:20It's one condition for keeping them secure and it keeps the animals from digging up fences.
0:35:20 > 0:35:23Do they ever escape and get on to your neighbours' farms?
0:35:23 > 0:35:28No, we're completely covered here by outside deer fencing,
0:35:28 > 0:35:33which is 6ft high and they have low fencing to the enclosures.
0:35:33 > 0:35:36In theory, they can jump over,
0:35:36 > 0:35:41but they don't because they've got everything they need inside.
0:35:49 > 0:35:51Amazing the change in the weather, isn't it?
0:35:51 > 0:35:55One minute, beautiful sunshine, the next minute it's blizzarding.
0:35:55 > 0:35:58Some people say pigs wreck the place?
0:35:58 > 0:36:00LOUD SQUEALING Well, actually, they do.
0:36:00 > 0:36:04These animals have been in here for three weeks and you can see they have
0:36:04 > 0:36:08totally flattened the bracken and they've taken the gorse down.
0:36:08 > 0:36:12You can see the way they are clipping the tops of the gorse to make nests
0:36:12 > 0:36:17- and to make shelter.- How many months before they're ready to be
0:36:17 > 0:36:19made into meat and go for sausages?
0:36:19 > 0:36:25We take them off between 12 and 18 months of age, so they get a pretty good life span.
0:36:25 > 0:36:27They are mature by the time they go.
0:36:27 > 0:36:33We don't, as a matter of policy, sell young animals, suckling pigs.
0:36:33 > 0:36:37There is a demand for them on the Continent, they eat them at six months of age.
0:36:37 > 0:36:41We don't feel they've had any kind of life by then.
0:36:41 > 0:36:46- I understand your husband might have some sausages on the go? - Um, we're hoping, we are hoping.
0:36:47 > 0:36:51- I'm looking forward to tasting it, let's wander back up the hill.- OK.
0:36:51 > 0:36:55- MEAT SIZZLES - Chef, you got the easy part of this
0:36:55 > 0:36:58- rearing pigs, just the cooking? - I think that's about right.
0:36:58 > 0:37:00I do actually help out from time to time.
0:37:00 > 0:37:03Let me give it a taste.
0:37:03 > 0:37:09Wow, it's really lovely, very different to the domesticated pigs I rear at home.
0:37:09 > 0:37:14It is far more like beef. It is a very high-protein meat and it is a dark meat.
0:37:14 > 0:37:18Any regrets, Lucinder? Do you think you'd like to go back to the city?
0:37:18 > 0:37:21Absolutely not, I would never go back.
0:37:21 > 0:37:25I do really enjoy being out on the hill and dealing with
0:37:25 > 0:37:29things that are real and important, it's very satisfying.
0:37:34 > 0:37:38I think I'll stick with my Highland cows. Taggart was much friendlier.
0:37:38 > 0:37:42More importantly, I've just reached the very northern tip of the Caledonian Canal,
0:37:42 > 0:37:46where the waters finally flow out into the North Sea.
0:37:46 > 0:37:48My journey has cut diagonally across Scotland,
0:37:48 > 0:37:51taking me from Fort William, along three incredible lochs
0:37:51 > 0:37:56and now finally to the coast at Inverness and beyond.
0:37:56 > 0:38:02One of the most dramatic views Inverness has to offer is the view of the bridge over the Ness
0:38:02 > 0:38:05and the fantastic panoramic of the city behind it.
0:38:07 > 0:38:12Inverness is known as the capital of the Highlands, it became a city in the year 2000.
0:38:12 > 0:38:16A real contrast to the rural areas I've explored so far.
0:38:16 > 0:38:22To the north of the city, the Caledonian Canal finally reaches the open water as the landscape
0:38:22 > 0:38:28changes to a coastal scene set off by the lighthouse at Chanonry Point.
0:38:28 > 0:38:32The Moray Firth has some famous and well-loved residents.
0:38:32 > 0:38:35Its own pod of bottle-nosed dolphins.
0:38:35 > 0:38:41I've come down here to Chanonry Point, one of the best places in the UK to see dolphins from the shore.
0:38:41 > 0:38:45And if you're lucky, you might also catch a glimpse of Charlie Phillips.
0:38:48 > 0:38:51Charlie is a professional photographer who comes here most days
0:38:51 > 0:38:57to observe and photograph the dolphins. He takes around 60,000 photos a year.
0:38:57 > 0:39:00Hopefully we'll get a sighting today.
0:39:02 > 0:39:07- Morning, Charlie, how are you? - Lovely morning.- Very good morning.
0:39:07 > 0:39:11- Anything out there this morning? - Four dolphins out here this morning.
0:39:11 > 0:39:16- A couple of big males over there, see big Nevis, he's just poked his dorsal fin up.- Yeah.
0:39:16 > 0:39:20And we have Keslet and wee Charlie, our 18-month-old calf.
0:39:20 > 0:39:24They are hunting just in the tidal current, they're only about 20ft off the beach.
0:39:24 > 0:39:26I never thought they'd be so close, it's amazing.
0:39:26 > 0:39:29Yes, the water around here is really deep.
0:39:29 > 0:39:32- That's why this beach is excellent for land watching.- Fantastic.
0:39:32 > 0:39:38There you go, see? The seagull's right on top of the dolphin just now.
0:39:38 > 0:39:40Hoping to get a bit of the fish.
0:39:40 > 0:39:43You mentioned a load of names. Do you know these dolphins well?
0:39:43 > 0:39:48Yes, when you're watching them and studying them for quite a while,
0:39:48 > 0:39:52you begin to get the nick marks and scratches on the dorsal fin
0:39:52 > 0:39:54almost imprinted in your brain.
0:39:54 > 0:39:57We also have a catalogue of animals,
0:39:57 > 0:40:01Aberdeen University for the past 20 years have been compiling, basically,
0:40:01 > 0:40:04a Who's Who of Moray Firth dolphins.
0:40:04 > 0:40:06Really? Using your photos?
0:40:06 > 0:40:09Some of them are mine, some are from the lighthouse field station.
0:40:09 > 0:40:14- You have been doing this for a long time now?- Quite a while, yes. - You're still learning new things?
0:40:14 > 0:40:20Absolutely, bottle-nosed dolphins are very complex animals and they have a very complicated social structure.
0:40:20 > 0:40:25And we're only beginning to just peel back the layers of the onion now
0:40:25 > 0:40:28and it keeps me down here almost every day.
0:40:28 > 0:40:33- I was going to say, are you here every morning?- Almost, it depends on when the tide is running.
0:40:33 > 0:40:38For land watching in this area, rising tides are very important,
0:40:38 > 0:40:41- that's when the dolphins are coming in.- Is that what we've got now?
0:40:41 > 0:40:46Yes, if you imagine, this tidal current is almost like a conveyor belt.
0:40:46 > 0:40:50- A supermarket conveyor belt of food coming towards the dolphins.- OK.
0:40:50 > 0:40:55They're at the end of the conveyor belt waiting for the fish to come, and the rising tide brings new,
0:40:55 > 0:40:58especially at this time of year, migratory salmon coming in
0:40:58 > 0:41:03and the dolphins are intercepting them without wasting too much energy.
0:41:03 > 0:41:07It's a bit harsh on the salmon, almost, it's quite an obstacle course getting past these fellas?
0:41:07 > 0:41:13- Yeah, and the thing is, these are big, big dolphins and they will take some big fish.- OK.
0:41:13 > 0:41:16We see them throwing around 15lb salmon.
0:41:16 > 0:41:21- Some pretty big stuff.- Wow! What about the photos?
0:41:21 > 0:41:25I've gone whale-watching before and I've got a lot of pictures of water!
0:41:25 > 0:41:30- Is that a big problem as they only pop up briefly?- It can be, it depends on what they're doing.
0:41:30 > 0:41:34If they're coming to the surface, as they are just now, they're foraging for food,
0:41:34 > 0:41:39in fairly much the one place, so you have a reasonable chance of getting them with a camera.
0:41:39 > 0:41:43But once they start rocketing around, maybe chasing fish,
0:41:43 > 0:41:47that can be more difficult, because they're moving at 20mph plus
0:41:47 > 0:41:51- and trying to film that or photograph that can be quite difficult.- I bet.
0:41:54 > 0:41:59'Charlie has brought along part of his identification catalogue with him today.
0:41:59 > 0:42:02'And when identifying dolphins, it's all about the dorsal fins.'
0:42:05 > 0:42:08So, big Nevis, who is out there just now.
0:42:08 > 0:42:12- See the scratches on his dorsal fin? - Incredible, what would make those?
0:42:12 > 0:42:16Other dolphins' teeth. This is interaction with other animals.
0:42:16 > 0:42:19You see the way the skin's bitten away at the back?
0:42:19 > 0:42:25Males quite often have this, they're competing with each other for access to females.
0:42:25 > 0:42:29- OK.- It may be territory as well. - I wouldn't be able to spot that from here.
0:42:29 > 0:42:35No, you might need to be looking through binoculars or if the animals were really close in to the beach,
0:42:35 > 0:42:38once your eye becomes accustomed to different dorsal fins...
0:42:38 > 0:42:41- Which yours has?- Yeah. I've been doing it for a while.
0:42:41 > 0:42:46In conclusion, you need to keep doing this and keep going and getting more information.
0:42:46 > 0:42:50Say one of these animals got into a fight with another dolphin
0:42:50 > 0:42:53and that other dolphin took a bite out of the back of the dorsal fin.
0:42:53 > 0:42:56- The likes of Rainbow has a very small nick there.- Uh-huh.
0:42:56 > 0:43:01She could quite easily pick up another and that'd change the whole look of her dorsal fin.
0:43:01 > 0:43:06So that next photograph becomes your latest passport photo for that dolphin.
0:43:06 > 0:43:10And the calf out there now, I believe is named after you.
0:43:10 > 0:43:12Yeah, wee Charlie.
0:43:12 > 0:43:15Keslet, his mother, who is around here somewhere,
0:43:15 > 0:43:20she has been my favourite dolphin in this population
0:43:20 > 0:43:21for a long, long time.
0:43:21 > 0:43:25She had her own calf in 2007.
0:43:25 > 0:43:28He's just like her when she was small, he's cheeky.
0:43:28 > 0:43:32He's got a real attitude and he's wonderful to watch.
0:43:32 > 0:43:35He'll be coming up to about 18 months old now.
0:43:35 > 0:43:40- You have a duty to keep looking out for him?- Absolutely. You've got to look after your namesake.
0:43:41 > 0:43:47'It's no surprise these superb creatures are a huge draw for tourists and visitors.
0:43:47 > 0:43:50'But the numbers of people wanting to see them brings with it challenges.'
0:43:54 > 0:44:02Back in 1995, Jilly Parton reported on some of the issues facing this precious but fragile population.
0:44:02 > 0:44:06If you really want to get close to nature, this is a fantastic way of doing it.
0:44:06 > 0:44:12Wind in your hair, the faint smack of salt on your lips and masses to see.
0:44:12 > 0:44:16'The waters of the Moray Firth are beautiful, deep and dark
0:44:16 > 0:44:20'and they are home to around 150 bottle-nosed dolphins.
0:44:22 > 0:44:25'Watching them is magical and the joy is,
0:44:25 > 0:44:29'they're not just passing through, they're born and bred here.
0:44:29 > 0:44:34'People are drawn to the dolphins, so much so, not even a good drenching
0:44:34 > 0:44:37'on the wettest Scottish day in 10 years can put them off.
0:44:37 > 0:44:41'It's misty out there, but no-one's complaining.'
0:44:41 > 0:44:44We've driven about 30 miles to come on this trip.
0:44:44 > 0:44:47Hopefully to see some dolphins in the wild.
0:44:47 > 0:44:50You know they're here, so it's nice to be able to see them.
0:44:50 > 0:44:54The dolphins'll come alongside the boat and then jump out
0:44:54 > 0:44:57and turn and fall back and splash everyone on the boat.
0:44:57 > 0:44:59We've had that happen quite a few times.
0:44:59 > 0:45:02But to see them doing it, because they want to do it,
0:45:02 > 0:45:06they're not being fed to do it, not being paid or looked after,
0:45:06 > 0:45:10they're doing it cos they're free and want to do it. It's brilliant.
0:45:10 > 0:45:12And it's big business.
0:45:12 > 0:45:16September alone will see around 40,000 trippers in Inverness.
0:45:16 > 0:45:20This shop will shift 1,000 T-shirts.
0:45:20 > 0:45:23And there's always something for the mantelpiece.
0:45:25 > 0:45:29So, the word has spread about the Moray Firth dolphins
0:45:29 > 0:45:33and as it has done so, more and more people are turning up to enjoy them.
0:45:33 > 0:45:36But the souvenirs and the T-shirts are one thing.
0:45:36 > 0:45:40What's really causing concern, though, are some of the boat trips.
0:45:40 > 0:45:42Let me put you in the picture.
0:45:42 > 0:45:45This is the Moray Firth and the dolphins absolutely love it here.
0:45:45 > 0:45:48Why? Because it's an excellent feeding ground.
0:45:48 > 0:45:51There are really good strong currents, which the dolphins like,
0:45:51 > 0:45:55and it's nice and sheltered. But some of them go further.
0:45:55 > 0:45:58They swim all the way down here and under the bridge
0:45:58 > 0:46:02and into Kessock Narrows or what's known locally as the Kessock Channel
0:46:02 > 0:46:05and this is the problem area.
0:46:05 > 0:46:12And here it is, the ribbon of water that flows from just out there beyond the bridge and into the narrows here.
0:46:12 > 0:46:18At the moment, two boat operators ply this route and one of them is Moray Firth Cruises.
0:46:18 > 0:46:21Between them, they make about 12 boat trips every day in the summer
0:46:21 > 0:46:24taking sightseers out to watch for dolphins.
0:46:24 > 0:46:27What's the problem? Well, Scottish Natural Heritage
0:46:27 > 0:46:31and the Scottish Wildlife Trust want to limit the number of trips,
0:46:31 > 0:46:37they say to protect the dolphins and the environment that they love from too much human interference.
0:46:37 > 0:46:41'They've done it by introducing the Dolphin Space Programme,
0:46:41 > 0:46:44'asking everyone to respect the dolphins' need for room.
0:46:44 > 0:46:49'It includes a voluntary code of conduct for the six regular boat operators on the Firth to follow.
0:46:49 > 0:46:53'Its key points are, maintain a slow, steady speed throughout the trip.
0:46:53 > 0:46:56'Follow an agreed route without stopping or deviating.
0:46:56 > 0:47:00'Slow down if dolphins appear directly ahead. So far, so good.
0:47:00 > 0:47:04'The sticking point for the boatmen in the Narrows is this.'
0:47:04 > 0:47:07We have asked in this particularly sensitive area, which is considered
0:47:07 > 0:47:11the most sensitive area in the Moray Firth for the dolphins,
0:47:11 > 0:47:13we've asked that trips
0:47:13 > 0:47:18going round and about this particular area be limited to four overall a day.
0:47:18 > 0:47:21And since there are two operators, it would be two each.
0:47:21 > 0:47:27Science at the moment indicates that boating behaviour can have an effect on the dolphins.
0:47:27 > 0:47:33And short term effects have been seen and they've also been seen here where the animals dive for longer,
0:47:33 > 0:47:36they stop communicating with each other.
0:47:36 > 0:47:40There are various different short-term studies which have been done.
0:47:40 > 0:47:46In fact, it will be another 10 to 11 years before we know whether this population is remaining stable
0:47:46 > 0:47:49or whether the numbers are increasing or decreasing.
0:47:49 > 0:47:53What if you had to do 2 trips a day, then, what would that do to business?
0:47:53 > 0:47:57We'd be bankrupt. The bank would have the boat, the boat would be sold,
0:47:57 > 0:48:00which is annoying when Scottish National Heritage
0:48:00 > 0:48:05knew last year before we invested in the boat that we'd be doing five, six and even seven trips a day.
0:48:05 > 0:48:08But they never said anything about restricting trips.
0:48:08 > 0:48:12We are not here to upset the dolphins at all, we've been born and brought up here.
0:48:12 > 0:48:14We've seen them all our lives.
0:48:14 > 0:48:20There has been a ferry boat service here, there's been 60 to 100 trawlers which used to fish in here.
0:48:20 > 0:48:24So when they've been here for four or five years and say, "We think this is what'll happen,"
0:48:24 > 0:48:27they've no evidence, no proof.
0:48:27 > 0:48:30The proof we have is the dolphins play with the boat.
0:48:30 > 0:48:34Every time we go out, the dolphins play with the boat, the calves come near the boat.
0:48:34 > 0:48:38If they felt threatened, they wouldn't come near us at all.
0:48:38 > 0:48:44The harbourmaster is confused, too. After all, there are 3,000 ship movements in the Channel every year.
0:48:44 > 0:48:48The environmentalists can't stop that, but he says, why pick on the boatmen?
0:48:48 > 0:48:51I do think the boatmen are being targeted unfairly,
0:48:51 > 0:48:54because I see the main problem, in fact, as
0:48:54 > 0:48:57the people involved in the leisure watersports sector.
0:48:57 > 0:49:01Mainly the high-speed boats,
0:49:01 > 0:49:04the run-arounds, the jet skiers, the water-skiers.
0:49:04 > 0:49:08In fact, only a couple of weeks ago, we had a complaint from the coastguards
0:49:08 > 0:49:13wanting to know if the lifeboat could be launched because it was the only boat fast enough
0:49:13 > 0:49:20to try and get under control a powerboat that was in actual fact actively chasing the dolphins.
0:49:20 > 0:49:23It must be said, the jet ski generation is on the hit list,
0:49:23 > 0:49:29but limiting the boat trips takes priority for Holly Arnold, even if it means legislation.
0:49:29 > 0:49:33In a number of other countries where there are whale and dolphin watching operations,
0:49:33 > 0:49:39they have regulations, which are legal licensing systems, if you like,
0:49:39 > 0:49:43to allow people to go and look at the dolphins from boats.
0:49:43 > 0:49:46And it's that sort of thing we would then, let's say,
0:49:46 > 0:49:50might be the next step if the voluntary and co-operative approach doesn't work.
0:49:53 > 0:49:5914 years on, I'm interested to find out how the Dolphin Space Programme is going.
0:49:59 > 0:50:03Deborah Benham has agreed to take me out on a trip to find out.
0:50:04 > 0:50:08- You're the project officer for Dolphin Space Programme.- Right.
0:50:08 > 0:50:12How's it been going? Did you have to introduce legislation at any point?
0:50:12 > 0:50:15No, we didn't. The Dolphin Space Programme has been very successful.
0:50:15 > 0:50:17We've been going 14 years now.
0:50:17 > 0:50:23Over those years, the scheme's expanded over a much broader area in the Moray Firth,
0:50:23 > 0:50:26so we now have 12 members all the way from Portmahomack in the north,
0:50:26 > 0:50:29all the way over to Aberdeenshire, Banff and Macduff.
0:50:29 > 0:50:32It's really developed into a nice partnership.
0:50:32 > 0:50:36Everyone comes together and we do a lot of collaborative work, so I think it's been a success.
0:50:36 > 0:50:40Have you had to get really tough with anyone?
0:50:40 > 0:50:41Nothing really tough.
0:50:41 > 0:50:46We're asking operators to adhere to a voluntary code of conduct and sometimes that gets broken
0:50:46 > 0:50:51when it's just too tempting to go to where the dolphins are hanging out or something like that.
0:50:51 > 0:50:54But usually, just by talking with the tour operators
0:50:54 > 0:50:59and reminding them how sensitive some of these areas are, like for feeding or resting,
0:50:59 > 0:51:02that usually brings people back into line with the code of conduct.
0:51:02 > 0:51:08Obviously, some tour operators were worried that this programme might end their livelihoods.
0:51:08 > 0:51:10- Has that happened?- I don't think so.
0:51:10 > 0:51:14Several of the ones that joined back at the beginning are still in business and still going strong
0:51:14 > 0:51:18and lots more operators have started in the last few years.
0:51:18 > 0:51:21There's a perception that dolphins always want to spend time with us,
0:51:21 > 0:51:23they're very social creatures.
0:51:23 > 0:51:26They are quite sociable compared to, say, a lion or something,
0:51:26 > 0:51:30but they do need their own time to feed and look after their young and to rest as well.
0:51:30 > 0:51:34So the most important thing for recreational boat users to realise
0:51:34 > 0:51:37is that they need to let the interactions be on the dolphins'
0:51:37 > 0:51:39or the other animals' own terms.
0:51:39 > 0:51:45So maybe approach to within 50 or 60 metres and then let the animals come to you the rest of the way.
0:51:45 > 0:51:49If they leave, let them leave, cos they have something else to do.
0:51:49 > 0:51:52- So reining in the human ego?- Maybe.
0:51:52 > 0:51:55It is exciting sometimes to be with the animals, but yes,
0:51:55 > 0:51:57just letting them have their space
0:51:57 > 0:52:01to do their own natural behaviours as well, that's really important.
0:52:01 > 0:52:03I was very lucky this morning.
0:52:03 > 0:52:07We went to a beach, we saw some dolphins. It was fantastic.
0:52:07 > 0:52:11So I've shared in that excitement. What can we see out here?
0:52:11 > 0:52:13We're coming a bit further out into the Moray Firth now.
0:52:13 > 0:52:17As you get further out, you start to see species like common dolphins.
0:52:17 > 0:52:21We get minke whales up here. There's lots of places along the coastline
0:52:21 > 0:52:23to see fantastic bird colonies.
0:52:23 > 0:52:28And there's lots of other wildlife. Harbour porpoises, killer whales.
0:52:28 > 0:52:30We've had all sorts of wildlife.
0:52:30 > 0:52:33It really is a very rich, fantastic area for wildlife watching.
0:52:33 > 0:52:38- Wow, what a variety. You've got your binoculars to hand.- I have. - Feeling lucky?- I hope so.
0:52:38 > 0:52:41- It's a beautiful day for it. - Let's keep our eyes peeled.
0:52:45 > 0:52:49If you see any splashes or birds circling, then have a look through the binoculars.
0:52:49 > 0:52:53The temptation is to quickly glance round, but you see nothing.
0:52:53 > 0:52:54If you've got dolphins,
0:52:54 > 0:52:57they can be down for a few seconds or even a couple of minutes,
0:52:57 > 0:53:04so it's good to do a slow scan one way, back the other way, looking for any birds or anything like that.
0:53:09 > 0:53:11- Oh, that's a guillemot or something flying there.- Oh!
0:53:11 > 0:53:16- You can see the short, staccato wing beats. - They've got really short wings.
0:53:16 > 0:53:20Yes, they look like little round penguins, so they have quite short wing beats.
0:53:23 > 0:53:26'There doesn't seem to be a lot out there today,
0:53:26 > 0:53:32'but the sun is shining and it's a great way to appreciate this fantastic coastline.'
0:53:32 > 0:53:36Well, I've seen a seal and a handful of guillemots, which is pretty good going.
0:53:36 > 0:53:41But looking out to the North Sea here makes you realise just how incredible the Caledonian Canal is.
0:53:41 > 0:53:44I mean, here, we've got the north-east coast of Scotland,
0:53:44 > 0:53:48but it's linked to the Atlantic way over there to the west,
0:53:48 > 0:53:51despite the indomitable mountains that seem to stand in the way.
0:53:51 > 0:53:56Three stunning, natural lochs, linked up by a man-made canal,
0:53:56 > 0:54:00have allowed me to make this absolutely amazing journey.
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