0:00:18 > 0:00:21Today I'm on a journey through the Lake District,
0:00:21 > 0:00:24one of the world's most spectacular landscapes.
0:00:26 > 0:00:29I start my travels in the North Lakes,
0:00:29 > 0:00:34over 2,500 feet above sea level, in Whinlatter Forest.
0:00:34 > 0:00:39That was so cool. I felled a tree.
0:00:39 > 0:00:43I'll travel to Keswick to learn how a pencil factory
0:00:43 > 0:00:47helped keep Second World War RAF pilots safe behind enemy lines.
0:00:47 > 0:00:50Is that the compass? Oh, my gosh, it is so tiny.
0:00:50 > 0:00:52I'll meet the photographer
0:00:52 > 0:00:55whose collaboration with writer Alfred Wainwright
0:00:55 > 0:00:57immortalised this amazing scenery...
0:00:57 > 0:01:00The landscape has been here
0:01:00 > 0:01:02for hundreds of thousands of years, untouched,
0:01:02 > 0:01:08and I really do try to avoid photographing man's hand upon the landscape.
0:01:08 > 0:01:09..and end my journey
0:01:09 > 0:01:14indulging in any pudding lover's fantasy in Ambleside.
0:01:14 > 0:01:16That looks yummy.
0:01:16 > 0:01:17OK, so it's nothing...
0:01:17 > 0:01:20I'd just eat that with a spoon, Lucy.
0:01:20 > 0:01:25Along the way, I'll be looking back at the best of the BBC's rural programmes
0:01:25 > 0:01:27from this part of the country.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30This is Country Tracks.
0:01:33 > 0:01:36The Lake District was one of the first areas in the UK
0:01:36 > 0:01:38to be given National Park status.
0:01:38 > 0:01:43Here, you can find England's highest mountain and its deepest lake.
0:01:43 > 0:01:46Its vistas have inspired paintings by Constable
0:01:46 > 0:01:48and words by Wordsworth.
0:01:48 > 0:01:49I've come to Whinlatter
0:01:49 > 0:01:53to get a taste of the only true mountain forest in England.
0:01:53 > 0:02:00Whinlatter Forest rises to 2,591 feet above sea level,
0:02:00 > 0:02:04giving spectacular views of the Lake District, and on to Scotland.
0:02:04 > 0:02:08Now it was originally planted after the First World War,
0:02:08 > 0:02:12in order to replenish the dwindling timber supplies in the UK.
0:02:12 > 0:02:17Now back then, the main objective was to grow the most productive tree species possible,
0:02:17 > 0:02:20offering very little diversity for wildlife.
0:02:20 > 0:02:26But by the 1970s, the Forestry Commission decided to change the way they managed this forest.
0:02:28 > 0:02:29Hiya, Nathan.
0:02:29 > 0:02:33'I'm meeting ranger Nathan Fox, to find out why.'
0:02:33 > 0:02:38So, Nathan, why was the decision taken to change the management of this forest?
0:02:38 > 0:02:40The remit changed, really.
0:02:40 > 0:02:44These are public forests and we need to manage them for public benefit,
0:02:44 > 0:02:47so the emphasis on timber production reduced,
0:02:47 > 0:02:54and the emphasis on more wildlife conservation and public facilities obviously increased.
0:02:54 > 0:02:58That's a lovely thing to hear, so what exactly is the scale of this change?
0:02:58 > 0:03:00I mean, how big is the forest for managing?
0:03:00 > 0:03:02Whinlatter is a very big forest, obviously.
0:03:02 > 0:03:07It's about 3,000 acres in size, and forestry's obviously quite a long-term thing.
0:03:07 > 0:03:11So we've got a bit of work to do before we reach our ultimate goal.
0:03:11 > 0:03:12It's a work in progress.
0:03:12 > 0:03:15What are you doing with this particular patch of it?
0:03:15 > 0:03:17The whole area's going to be clear-felled
0:03:17 > 0:03:21and it's going to be replanted, but not with the same type of species
0:03:21 > 0:03:25but with a different type of species to give a bit more diversity.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28Cool. OK. How do you tackle such a big forest?
0:03:28 > 0:03:30I mean, how do you cut this down efficiently?
0:03:30 > 0:03:34Historically, it was done by axes, then it was done by saws.
0:03:34 > 0:03:39- That's hard work.- Then, it was done by chainsaws, but we've do something different with it now.
0:03:39 > 0:03:42- Where is it?- Just round here. I'm going to let you see.
0:03:52 > 0:03:54- Hi, Dave.- Hiya, Nathan.
0:03:54 > 0:03:56- Liz, this is my colleague, Dave. - Hello.
0:03:56 > 0:03:59- This is Liz.- Very nice to meet you. - How are you, love?
0:03:59 > 0:04:04- You have got the best toy in the world.- I've leave you in Dave's capable hands.
0:04:04 > 0:04:05Thanks a million.
0:04:05 > 0:04:08Wow, how many trees do you get through with this baby?
0:04:08 > 0:04:10It'll do 250 trees a day.
0:04:10 > 0:04:12- Not too shabby.- No, that's right.
0:04:12 > 0:04:16How come the wood's all separated into different piles?
0:04:16 > 0:04:19We're cutting that many different products out of the tree.
0:04:19 > 0:04:24The first piece is a saw log, what we call a nice, green saw log, a big, chunky log.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- Used for timber? - Yeah, timber industry. So, we cut that one first,
0:04:28 > 0:04:32then as you start getting down the tree, towards pallet wood.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36Then as we get further down, if it's got any bends or twists in it,
0:04:36 > 0:04:39we cut pulp wood, which is for paper and cardboard.
0:04:39 > 0:04:41- So nothing's wasted.- Nothing at all.
0:04:41 > 0:04:45- That's good news. Can I see it in action?- You can indeed, yeah. You'll have to jump up.
0:04:45 > 0:04:50- Can I go up there with you?- Yes. - Awesome! I'm going to leave my rucksack here.
0:04:56 > 0:04:57Now, where can I stand, Dave?
0:04:57 > 0:05:00- Squeeze in there if you can. - Okey-dokey, no worries.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02Not much room in these cabs. All right?
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- Yeah, yeah.- Are you in?- Yes.
0:05:05 > 0:05:07It's an incredible-looking piece of kit. It really is.
0:05:07 > 0:05:09That's the felling head there.
0:05:09 > 0:05:12Oh, look at that!
0:05:12 > 0:05:14Got feed rollers that feed the tree through,
0:05:14 > 0:05:18and as you feed the trees through, there's knives, these pieces here.
0:05:18 > 0:05:22- Yeah, yeah. Whoa! You wouldn't want to be caught between those.- No.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26Oh, my God. That's incredible. That's better than any Transformer I've ever seen.
0:05:26 > 0:05:28HE LAUGHS
0:05:33 > 0:05:36Basically, this is your length. These are diameters.
0:05:36 > 0:05:40So when I saw this tree off now, it'll zero itself.
0:05:40 > 0:05:45When I feed the tree through, it'll optimise what it can get.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- Would you like to have a go? - Oh! Are you kidding me?
0:05:50 > 0:05:53I can position it so you can fell a tree, if you like.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56- Oh, my gosh! Yes please. Seriously? - Yes.
0:05:56 > 0:06:00Dave, you are amazing. Thank you so much, I would so love to try and have a go.
0:06:01 > 0:06:05- All you need to do is...- Yes. - ..press this little button here.
0:06:05 > 0:06:07- Yeah, and that's it?- That's it.
0:06:07 > 0:06:09OK. Here we go.
0:06:09 > 0:06:14That's it. We just pull that lever back and feed the tree through...
0:06:16 > 0:06:17..like that.
0:06:24 > 0:06:27That was so cool! I felled a tree!
0:06:27 > 0:06:28You cut a tree down.
0:06:31 > 0:06:34There is still a lot of work to be done in this part of the forest,
0:06:34 > 0:06:38but some areas are already geared up for the public.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43Adam Henson saddled up to try out the bike trails.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56You obviously love it up here. What makes you so passionate about it?
0:06:56 > 0:06:58Look where we are, first of all.
0:06:58 > 0:07:01The views are spectacular, and even better on a bike.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03It's just a great place to live and work.
0:07:03 > 0:07:05And the trail itself?
0:07:05 > 0:07:09It's been advertised as putting the mountain back into mountain biking, and it really has.
0:07:09 > 0:07:12We're on one of the biggest, highest mountain trails in England.
0:07:12 > 0:07:14Not only have you got the views,
0:07:14 > 0:07:16but you've got amazing descents and just huge amounts of fun.
0:07:16 > 0:07:19It's graded red. That's like skiing, I suppose, is it?
0:07:19 > 0:07:23Yeah. We start off with green, blue, red and black, so it's second-highest.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26You need to know your stuff, but most people do.
0:07:26 > 0:07:30- I suppose we ought to give it a go. - Absolutely.
0:07:39 > 0:07:42The trail's 19 kilometres long and takes about two hours.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46For a novice rider like me, it's pretty tricky.
0:07:48 > 0:07:53- Rich, that's quite technical stuff, isn't it? Quite tricky some of that. - Good fun though.
0:07:53 > 0:07:57Now, going down past some of those tree roots, my back tyre was slipping out
0:07:57 > 0:07:59and I - well, I nearly fell off.
0:07:59 > 0:08:03That does happen. Often, if front wheel goes, your back wheel's going to follow,
0:08:03 > 0:08:07so either avoid it altogether, stay clear of it, or if you can, front-wheel lift,
0:08:07 > 0:08:09and your back wheel will follow, and you clear it.
0:08:09 > 0:08:11OK. Try the next bit, shall we?
0:08:11 > 0:08:13Happy days, let's go.
0:08:19 > 0:08:24The trail was getting tougher and the mist was closing in.
0:08:27 > 0:08:30Whoa, Adam, slow down.
0:08:30 > 0:08:33Got a bit of a technical feature to look at.
0:08:33 > 0:08:37So what we need to do here, is look past the puddle.
0:08:37 > 0:08:39So where you look is where you're going to go.
0:08:39 > 0:08:42As the front wheel drops down, push the bike away from you.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45That gets the bike over the technical feature quite quickly.
0:08:45 > 0:08:47Go easy on the brakes and just enjoy it.
0:08:47 > 0:08:50What happens if I slip off into the trees?
0:08:50 > 0:08:51First of all, you won't.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54It's all about confidence. If you think about falling, you will fall.
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- Don't think about falling.- OK. Let's give it a go. I'm feeling confident!
0:08:58 > 0:09:00ADAM LAUGHS
0:09:00 > 0:09:02It might not look much, but when you're on a bike
0:09:02 > 0:09:04with a hefty drop next to you,
0:09:04 > 0:09:06it's a different story.
0:09:23 > 0:09:25Well, Adam, what do you reckon, then?
0:09:25 > 0:09:28it's just great. I'm loving it. Really, really good.
0:09:28 > 0:09:30- Thanks for all the tips. It's fantastic.- No problem.
0:09:30 > 0:09:34Don't let me hold you up, you crack on and I'll just make my own way down.
0:09:34 > 0:09:35- OK.- Nice to see you.- See you later.
0:09:48 > 0:09:53The Whinlatter mountain forest is owned by the Forestry Commission,
0:09:53 > 0:09:56so I wanted to find out about their input into the trail.
0:09:56 > 0:09:58- Hi, how are you doing? - Hi, how are you doing?
0:09:58 > 0:10:01It's a brilliant trail. Adrian, how did this come about?
0:10:01 > 0:10:05Well, about five years ago, we were inundated with self-built trails
0:10:05 > 0:10:07within the forest, and that's groups of people
0:10:07 > 0:10:09coming in and building their own trail.
0:10:09 > 0:10:13So the Forestry Commission here at Whinlatter thought, "Well, it's about time we did something,"
0:10:13 > 0:10:17and created a trail that was purpose-built and sustainable.
0:10:17 > 0:10:19How does it fit in with the wildlife?
0:10:19 > 0:10:22That's why a lot of people have been coming here in the past.
0:10:22 > 0:10:26The Bassenthwaite ospreys are in the area, there's a red squirrel reserve here.
0:10:26 > 0:10:28We've got a good population of roe deer.
0:10:28 > 0:10:32So we wouldn't develop something that was unsustainable or detrimental to that either.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35MUSIC: "Kitty Jay" by Seth Lakeman
0:10:35 > 0:10:39One of the great things about this trail is the absolutely stunning views.
0:10:39 > 0:10:42You can see right off across the Lake District and even into Scotland,
0:10:42 > 0:10:46and Keswick's 1,600 feet down in the valley.
0:10:46 > 0:10:51The last kilometre of the trail is specially designed for disabled mountain bikers.
0:10:51 > 0:10:55The bikes have four wheels instead of two, and the momentum is gained
0:10:55 > 0:10:59by the gradient they ride on, rather than through pedalling.
0:10:59 > 0:11:03So I caught up with these rough riders, who tow each other up on a quad bike,
0:11:03 > 0:11:06to get their take on the mountain biking experience.
0:11:07 > 0:11:09Dave, how did this trail come about?
0:11:09 > 0:11:12We approached the Forestry Commission, you know, with our club,
0:11:12 > 0:11:15and asked, basically, that any future trails that are built,
0:11:15 > 0:11:17that they could bear us in mind
0:11:17 > 0:11:19when they come to the construction of them.
0:11:19 > 0:11:20It's worked out quite well.
0:11:20 > 0:11:24It's a first attempt, so it's not brilliant because we're all learning.
0:11:24 > 0:11:27The Forestry Commission are learning and we're learning as well,
0:11:27 > 0:11:31but hopefully with a few tweaks it's going to run a little bit faster and be a little bit better for us.
0:11:31 > 0:11:34The only prohibitive thing about this, if me and Dave
0:11:34 > 0:11:36are riding we can never ride together,
0:11:36 > 0:11:38because either he's towing me or I'm towing him.
0:11:38 > 0:11:42If there's an up lift service, where we can both get a tow behind, we can just come up
0:11:42 > 0:11:45to the top like this, and ride together, which is the next stage.
0:11:45 > 0:11:47We just want to be like everybody else, chuck our bikes in the back of the car,
0:11:47 > 0:11:52come out, and take part without having to bring a trailer and a quad,
0:11:52 > 0:11:57and all that infrastructure, but at the moment that's the starting off and developing.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00That's really what we wanted to do initially, is just be part of the
0:12:00 > 0:12:04mountain biking family, rather than sort of separating in any way, you know.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07And you, when you're going down, you get pretty extreme, you talk about air time.
0:12:07 > 0:12:12Yeah, you know, you can jump them. You know, they're not quite as, you know,
0:12:12 > 0:12:15you can't take the impact with your legs like a normal rider can.
0:12:15 > 0:12:20So what tends to happen is it lands and it will get a rebound kick,
0:12:20 > 0:12:23which can get quite out of hand at times.
0:12:23 > 0:12:26But particularly when you get a good jump, with a good landing transition,
0:12:26 > 0:12:28you can land smoothly and ride away.
0:12:28 > 0:12:30That sounds quite extreme! Are you not worried about hurting yourself?
0:12:30 > 0:12:31Yes!
0:12:33 > 0:12:37- Are you?- Yes and no.
0:12:37 > 0:12:39I still want an adrenaline rush.
0:12:39 > 0:12:42Obviously, self preservation kicks in at some stage, but you can't do
0:12:42 > 0:12:47an extreme sport and be constantly afraid of what might happen.
0:12:47 > 0:12:51Being a wheelchair user, people think, you know, you're disabled
0:12:51 > 0:12:53and you're doing an extreme sport, are you mad?
0:12:53 > 0:12:56But why should I not try it any more than an able-bodied person?
0:12:56 > 0:13:00You know, you might fall off a bike and get injured, same might happen to me.
0:13:00 > 0:13:03It's a slightly different bike but it's the same risks involved.
0:13:03 > 0:13:08In some ways you could sort of see it as, well, I'm in a wheelchair, how much worse can it get?
0:13:08 > 0:13:12Although you don't tend to say that to people!
0:13:27 > 0:13:31and I reckon the more popular this sport becomes, trails like the ones
0:13:31 > 0:13:36they've got here really are going to come into their own for people of all abilities.
0:13:36 > 0:13:40For me, I think it's high time I got that well-deserved pint!
0:13:41 > 0:13:47Whinlatter's mountain bike trails. As well as these bike trails for visitors,
0:13:47 > 0:13:50something else has benefited from the changes to the forest
0:13:50 > 0:13:53The flora and fauna. Barbara Thompson is my guide.
0:13:54 > 0:13:59Barbara, immediately, all around me I can see a very different landscape
0:13:59 > 0:14:01from the one I've just been in.
0:14:01 > 0:14:04Talk to me about the kind of trees that are here then.
0:14:04 > 0:14:08Well, you can see over there, a mosaic of different trees,
0:14:08 > 0:14:11different ages, different species.
0:14:11 > 0:14:15Some of them are conifer, larches, spruce. Some pine in there.
0:14:15 > 0:14:20But there's also some clear fell and some deciduous stuff.
0:14:20 > 0:14:23So you've got a whole range of different trees.
0:14:23 > 0:14:29We've got them in sort of species pens. Each pen is then felled.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32But that, of course, then opens up a whole new place
0:14:32 > 0:14:37where you've got young trees coming up, young deciduous trees coming up.
0:14:37 > 0:14:40And, of course, that means you've got lots of margins for wildlife then.
0:14:40 > 0:14:43- OK.- And different sorts of plants coming up.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46OK, so what kind of wildlife can you find?
0:14:46 > 0:14:49What we've got at the moment, of course, is red squirrel.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53They particularly like mature pines with the pine cones on the edges.
0:14:53 > 0:14:59We've also got small animals. Voles, little mice, bank voles
0:14:59 > 0:15:04- and you have the bigger predators like weasels and stoats coming in. - Fantastic.
0:15:04 > 0:15:08And then you have your big predators on top like buzzards coming in,
0:15:08 > 0:15:11sparrowhawks, occasionally a goshawk coming in
0:15:11 > 0:15:15and they'll be taking all those little animals in the food chain.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17Fantastic. What about ospreys then?
0:15:17 > 0:15:21Well, ospreys are exclusively fish eaters
0:15:21 > 0:15:26so what they like best are these native pine trees we have up here,
0:15:26 > 0:15:29which is our only native pine tree, the Scots pine.
0:15:29 > 0:15:33That's what they like nesting in because it has a big, broad open top to it.
0:15:33 > 0:15:37So this is very different and a big improvement on the original forest.
0:15:37 > 0:15:43Of course, I'm seeing lots of wild plants, some blackberries there.
0:15:43 > 0:15:49- Oh yes, they're just ripening up nicely, aren't they?- Amazing. There's only one that looks a bit ripe.
0:15:49 > 0:15:53Now, if you have a look over there, we've got some wood sage.
0:15:53 > 0:15:56- What, this stuff here? - This stuff here, yeah.
0:15:56 > 0:16:00This is a very interesting one because it's our only native sage.
0:16:00 > 0:16:03You can put it in stews but it's very bitter to eat.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06The Romans brought the Mediterranean sage across
0:16:06 > 0:16:08and it went quite out of fashion then.
0:16:16 > 0:16:20If you have a look here, Liz, there are two different sorts of heather.
0:16:20 > 0:16:24This has been completely eradicated underneath the conifers
0:16:24 > 0:16:27but now we've cleared it again, it's coming up.
0:16:27 > 0:16:30This is the more common Scottish heather.
0:16:30 > 0:16:32It's the one I recognise. What is this one?
0:16:32 > 0:16:34This one's bell heather.
0:16:34 > 0:16:39If you have a look here, you'll see each little flower is like a little ringing bell in there.
0:16:39 > 0:16:40It's so cute.
0:16:40 > 0:16:44So, this is indigenous heather but it was completely eradicated
0:16:44 > 0:16:47because of the old way the forest was planted?
0:16:47 > 0:16:51When you put the conifers in, that would shade out all this sort of thing.
0:16:51 > 0:16:55So, just letting a little bit of light in and it just seems to come up
0:16:55 > 0:16:59- from perhaps ancient seed that was there beforehand.- Fantastic.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02It's also quite nice in the fact that at this time of year
0:17:02 > 0:17:06- it will make a very pleasant golden dye out of the tips.- Really?
0:17:06 > 0:17:08You are a fountain on knowledge, Barbara.
0:17:08 > 0:17:11Beautiful. Great to see it here.
0:17:11 > 0:17:16Barbara, what would you say are the main advantages of managing a forest in this way?
0:17:16 > 0:17:20Well, I suppose it's because of the total diversity of the place.
0:17:20 > 0:17:25- As you can see, you've got lots of different ages of trees.- Yeah.
0:17:25 > 0:17:28Most of those are conifers so they'll be going for wood pulp or timber,
0:17:28 > 0:17:31so you're getting an income from that.
0:17:31 > 0:17:35You've got clear spaces where you'll get wildlife coming up.
0:17:35 > 0:17:39As the trees grow up, you'll get different wildlife coming in.
0:17:39 > 0:17:43It's opened it up so you can see these magnificent views
0:17:43 > 0:17:46and, of course, it's just wonderful for people.
0:17:48 > 0:17:52It's really great to see the transformation of the forest here.
0:17:52 > 0:17:57And it's not only the fells and forest getting a new lease of life.
0:17:57 > 0:17:59When Griff Rhys Jones visited,
0:17:59 > 0:18:02he went underground to check out a slate mine rescued from closure.
0:18:04 > 0:18:09Mark Weir has single-handedly resurrected this relic of Cumbrian industry.
0:18:09 > 0:18:12In the 1980s, the mine was closed down.
0:18:12 > 0:18:16'But Mark's grandfather, who had worked in the mine all his life,'
0:18:16 > 0:18:18always dreamed that it would open again.
0:18:18 > 0:18:22After his death, Mark risked everything and bought it.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26The only problem was that Mark, a former helicopter pilot,
0:18:26 > 0:18:30didn't know the first thing about slate mining.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32I'd never been underground in a mine
0:18:32 > 0:18:35till I actually walked through here for the first time,
0:18:35 > 0:18:38and I hadn't been underground as I bought it.
0:18:38 > 0:18:40Isn't that weird?
0:18:40 > 0:18:44But Mark has been transformed into a slate expert like his grandfather,
0:18:44 > 0:18:46having taught himself the skills.
0:18:46 > 0:18:51- I know this is a good bit of slate because it rings like a bell.- Right.
0:18:51 > 0:18:57So all I would want to do now is hit it in the middle of the middle.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00I just tap it.
0:19:00 > 0:19:02And because it's gone thin on me...
0:19:05 > 0:19:08It's amazing how, with just that knock,
0:19:08 > 0:19:13you've ended up with something as finished as that,
0:19:13 > 0:19:15as beautiful a surface as that.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18'It looked easy enough so I thought I'd have a crack.'
0:19:18 > 0:19:22- Are you a practical sort of guy? - Not really, no, but I'll have a go.
0:19:22 > 0:19:24- At almost anything, I'll have a go at it.- OK.
0:19:24 > 0:19:27- Go into the middle there and a slight tap.- Into the middle?
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- In the middle there like that. - How hard am I going to hit this?
0:19:30 > 0:19:34- A nice, swift strike.- OK.
0:19:34 > 0:19:36Now, I'll probably...
0:19:39 > 0:19:42- And again. You're committed now, Griff.- Am I? OK.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45You just nicely tap it through.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47- Gently, gently?- Yeah.
0:19:47 > 0:19:49Gently, gently.
0:19:55 > 0:19:58That's gone through. There's definitely something coming off.
0:19:58 > 0:20:01- Look at that! I mean, it's not perfect.- No, it isn't.
0:20:01 > 0:20:05No, it's not a tile, so much as a...
0:20:05 > 0:20:07Well, it is a cheeseboard.
0:20:07 > 0:20:11Or possibly it could do in my garden, couldn't it, really?
0:20:11 > 0:20:14It didn't take me that long.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18'After I'd ruined a perfectly good bit of slate for him,'
0:20:18 > 0:20:23Mark took me up the mountain to find the green gold, as slate is called.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27When Mark bought the mine, it was derelict.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31He had 11 miles of tunnels, many of which were blocked or unsafe.
0:20:31 > 0:20:35And he had no money to employ anyone to help him.
0:20:35 > 0:20:40In getting it back to a workable state, he was completely on his own.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43Look at this.
0:20:44 > 0:20:45Wow!
0:20:45 > 0:20:48Isn't that fantastic?
0:20:48 > 0:20:52When I first started, for the first three years
0:20:52 > 0:20:54I used to do seven days a week
0:20:54 > 0:20:59and two 24-hours shifts mixed between that week, every week.
0:20:59 > 0:21:04- You would work here at night on your own?- Yeah.
0:21:04 > 0:21:09- But did you hate the mountain then? - I did. I hated every bit of it.
0:21:09 > 0:21:11So what drove you on?
0:21:11 > 0:21:15Basically, I bought a mine and it wasn't doing anything
0:21:15 > 0:21:17and I was going to lose everything.
0:21:17 > 0:21:21So my great idea of being truly grit and all the rest of it
0:21:21 > 0:21:24and I lose everything, genuinely was on the horizon.
0:21:24 > 0:21:29I was going to lose the lot and the only thing that kept us going,
0:21:29 > 0:21:31the only get-out that I could,
0:21:31 > 0:21:35was to basically work and work and work and work
0:21:35 > 0:21:37until I saw the green gold of Honister.
0:21:39 > 0:21:43But the days and nights of toil paid off
0:21:43 > 0:21:46and now Honister Slate Mine employs 40 people
0:21:46 > 0:21:51and produces 10,000 tonnes of slate a year for building companies in Cumbria and beyond.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58Mark hasn't just been busy extracting slate.
0:21:58 > 0:22:04He also has a project he hopes will leave a legacy to this Cumbrian industry.
0:22:07 > 0:22:13Deep in the mountain we came to an astonishing slate cave.
0:22:13 > 0:22:15- What's your plan here? - I'm creating an amphitheatre.
0:22:15 > 0:22:18A monument to the people that lived and died.
0:22:18 > 0:22:22So you'll put in seats and a stage?
0:22:22 > 0:22:26Yeah, in rock form. Yeah.
0:22:26 > 0:22:31- That's a huge amount of work to do. - It is. This is my home.
0:22:31 > 0:22:34This is my inspiration.
0:22:34 > 0:22:39This is my piece to carry on after my time.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43If Mark's inspiration becomes a reality,
0:22:43 > 0:22:47the slate amphitheatre will be a place of congregation.
0:22:47 > 0:22:50Visitors will be able to sit right inside the mountain
0:22:50 > 0:22:53and feel its might and beauty.
0:22:53 > 0:22:59Since that interview was recorded, Mark Weir has sadly passed away
0:22:59 > 0:23:02but Honister Slate Mine remains as his legacy
0:23:02 > 0:23:07and continues to play an important role in this lakeland community.
0:23:07 > 0:23:09Leaving the mountains of Whinlatter behind,
0:23:09 > 0:23:12I'm heading south to the popular town of Keswick.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17People first started visiting Keswick during the Victorian period
0:23:17 > 0:23:21inspired by the area's close connection with writers
0:23:21 > 0:23:24such as Coleridge, Ruskin and Wordsworth
0:23:24 > 0:23:28and also because of its popularity with artists like Constable and Turner.
0:23:28 > 0:23:31Today, this is a thriving tourist town
0:23:31 > 0:23:36but very few people actually know about one of its major industries.
0:23:36 > 0:23:43In 1500, a local shepherd discovered a strange black material in the roots of an upturned tree.
0:23:43 > 0:23:46That material was actually graphite
0:23:46 > 0:23:50and thus began the pencil-making industry right here in Keswick.
0:23:54 > 0:23:58The local graphite was mined out in the early 1800s
0:23:58 > 0:24:02but the pencil industry here in Keswick survives today.
0:24:05 > 0:24:08750,000 pencils are produced here every week,
0:24:08 > 0:24:12exported to no less than 72 countries.
0:24:14 > 0:24:16These days, production is largely automated.
0:24:16 > 0:24:20It's a far cry from the early days of mass production
0:24:20 > 0:24:21here in the Lake District.
0:24:25 > 0:24:27The first factory opened in 1832
0:24:27 > 0:24:31and back then it was a dirty, labour-intensive industry
0:24:31 > 0:24:34employing hundreds of local people.
0:24:37 > 0:24:39But it was in between these two eras
0:24:39 > 0:24:43that this factory was responsible for a unique product.
0:24:45 > 0:24:48I've come to the museum built on the site of the original factory
0:24:48 > 0:24:51to find out about a secret operation that was going on
0:24:51 > 0:24:55right here during the Second World War.
0:24:55 > 0:24:57I've worked in the museum for three years.
0:24:57 > 0:25:00Keswick is well known for the pencil-making industry
0:25:00 > 0:25:04but there was a big secret that was kept during the Second World War.
0:25:04 > 0:25:07- What was it?- There was a gentleman called Charles Fraser Smith.
0:25:07 > 0:25:10He came from the government in 1941
0:25:10 > 0:25:14to challenge our technical managers to create a pencil
0:25:14 > 0:25:16with a map and a compass inside.
0:25:16 > 0:25:17For use in the Second World War?
0:25:17 > 0:25:23It was. It was given to RAF airmen in standard issue kits
0:25:23 > 0:25:25and to POWs as well.
0:25:25 > 0:25:29Oh, my gosh, so escape maps and stuff like that?
0:25:29 > 0:25:32The maps inside held pictures of Germany
0:25:32 > 0:25:35and they were coded between 101 to 104.
0:25:35 > 0:25:38How on earth did they make this pencil then?
0:25:38 > 0:25:41- First off, they created the pencil as normal.- Yeah.
0:25:41 > 0:25:44Then they drilled out the inside.
0:25:44 > 0:25:47- Right, OK.- To about halfway, three quarters.
0:25:47 > 0:25:51So there's still some pencil here, so they can write. Amazing.
0:25:51 > 0:25:53So, it's hollowed out and then what happens?
0:25:53 > 0:25:57- They would insert a map into the centre, like so.- Oh, right, OK.
0:25:57 > 0:26:02- Nicely bound up.- Yeah. Then a compass was inserted on top.
0:26:02 > 0:26:05Is that the compass? Oh, my gosh, it is so tiny.
0:26:05 > 0:26:09- Oh, look, it's amazing. Brilliant. So you put the compass...- On top.
0:26:09 > 0:26:11And then you put a metal ferrule on top.
0:26:11 > 0:26:16- Which is normal to have on a pencil anyway?- Yep. To help hold the rubber on top of the end.- Great.
0:26:16 > 0:26:18And it would look like a normal pencil.
0:26:18 > 0:26:22How many people actually knew about these special pencils
0:26:22 > 0:26:24because it was a well-kept secret, wasn't it?
0:26:24 > 0:26:29- It was. Only six members of management knew about it.- Really?
0:26:29 > 0:26:33- Yeah, the factory workers created the pencil fully as normal.- OK.
0:26:33 > 0:26:36And then after work hours,
0:26:36 > 0:26:39the management would come in on nights and drill out
0:26:39 > 0:26:43the three-quarter length of pencil, insert the maps, the compasses,
0:26:43 > 0:26:47then put everything in boxes on the shelves ready to be shipped.
0:26:47 > 0:26:51- It was a small number of people who knew, to make sure the secret never got out.- Yeah.
0:26:51 > 0:26:56- So do we know whether Germany ever found out about our amazing secret pencils?- We don't.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59Unfortunately, due to the Official Secrets Act,
0:26:59 > 0:27:02all records were destroyed after being made,
0:27:02 > 0:27:05so we don't know how many were made, how many actually left
0:27:05 > 0:27:09or if they're actually still in people's attics or bedrooms.
0:27:09 > 0:27:12Absolutely genius, though. What a great thing to display here.
0:27:17 > 0:27:20The remarkable story of the secret wartime pencil,
0:27:20 > 0:27:24designed to save pilots' lives behind enemy lines
0:27:24 > 0:27:26and produced right here in Keswick.
0:27:28 > 0:27:31Exploring the Lake District's industrial heritage
0:27:31 > 0:27:35is one good reason for visiting this beautiful part of the world
0:27:35 > 0:27:38but, for most people, the biggest draw continues to be the wilderness
0:27:38 > 0:27:40and the water.
0:27:40 > 0:27:44Lots of people come to the Lake District to soak up the tranquillity,
0:27:44 > 0:27:46stretch their legs and generally take it easy.
0:27:46 > 0:27:50But if you prefer a bit more action and you don't mind getting wet,
0:27:50 > 0:27:53there is an alternative way of exploring this countryside.
0:27:53 > 0:27:56Right, arms crossed, wriggle wriggle. Go!
0:27:56 > 0:28:00Cumbria is bidding to become the UK's adventure capital
0:28:00 > 0:28:03and ghyll scrambling is shaping up to be one of the most popular,
0:28:03 > 0:28:06if not unique, activities here in the Lakes.
0:28:09 > 0:28:12Earlier on, I caught up with local instructor, John Wady.
0:28:12 > 0:28:16He's been running ghyll scrambling courses here for the past nine years.
0:28:16 > 0:28:19Many of them take place at Stoneycroft Ghyll.
0:28:19 > 0:28:23So, John, why is ghyll scrambling the next big thing?
0:28:23 > 0:28:27It's for people who have tried the traditional outdoor activities
0:28:27 > 0:28:29and want to get closer to nature.
0:28:29 > 0:28:33In the unique way the Lake District was formed through volcanic action and glaciation,
0:28:33 > 0:28:37it's left us with many of these really steep mountain streams
0:28:37 > 0:28:40which are the perfect venue for ghyll scrambling.
0:28:40 > 0:28:44'And, unlike many sports, you can do this come rain or shine.
0:28:44 > 0:28:46'I'm taking part with seven others.'
0:28:46 > 0:28:47Quick, get me in the water!
0:28:50 > 0:28:54I don't know what I'm expecting but I'm scared to death.
0:28:54 > 0:28:57Just to give you an idea of how chilly this water is,
0:28:57 > 0:29:00there's icicles hanging above us.
0:29:00 > 0:29:02Guys, we're all wearing wetsuits.
0:29:02 > 0:29:05The only way for a wetsuit to work is if it's wet.
0:29:05 > 0:29:07The clue's in the name, so have a seat.
0:29:07 > 0:29:09THEY LAUGH
0:29:09 > 0:29:12- I love it!- That's it.- Have a seat. - There we go, well done.
0:29:12 > 0:29:15Get your legs up there, hands in the air.
0:29:15 > 0:29:18Do yourselves a favour, put them in the water! Splash!
0:29:18 > 0:29:20Have some of that!
0:29:20 > 0:29:24'We're aiming to get through a kilometre of the ghyll. Here goes.'
0:29:24 > 0:29:28- Arms in, wiggle, wiggle! - If it's a full on adrenaline rush you're after,
0:29:28 > 0:29:32this won't disappoint. Suddenly, sliding down a rocky landscape
0:29:32 > 0:29:35feels like the most natural thing in the world.
0:29:35 > 0:29:36This is so bizarre
0:29:36 > 0:29:40because you'd never believe that it would fit you so naturally.
0:29:40 > 0:29:43It's like you're in a theme park cos you're going down all these slides.
0:29:43 > 0:29:47So where does the term "ghyll scrambling" originate?
0:29:48 > 0:29:52The scrambling is using your hands and feet to move your body along.
0:29:52 > 0:29:55A ghyll is just a local word for a steep mountain stream
0:29:55 > 0:29:57from the old Vikings,
0:29:57 > 0:30:00cos the Vikings had many settlements in this area.
0:30:00 > 0:30:04'Well, I'm pacing myself, as it's about to get even tougher.'
0:30:04 > 0:30:07- This is the first of the dives on the ghyll...- What?!
0:30:07 > 0:30:11- ..So we're thinking swimming pool, a racing dive's coming up.- Really?
0:30:11 > 0:30:14- Yeah. So...- So you go on your belly?- On your belly, yeah.
0:30:14 > 0:30:19We're looking for the best belly flop going. There's an award at the end of the ghyll.
0:30:20 > 0:30:24It looks painful but it's too exhilarating to notice the bumps.
0:30:28 > 0:30:32And can you scramble through any part of the Lake District?
0:30:32 > 0:30:35Obviously, some ghylls are just too steep to be safe.
0:30:35 > 0:30:38You'd have to use rocks and rock-climbing ropes and techniques
0:30:38 > 0:30:43to protect them. But there's 20, 30 ghylls like this
0:30:43 > 0:30:47that can be used really easily by anyone of average ability.
0:30:47 > 0:30:51They've had ghyll scramblers as young as six here.
0:30:51 > 0:30:53Some of these jumps are just incredible.
0:30:53 > 0:30:57If you're brave enough, it's an ideal opportunity to face your fears.
0:30:57 > 0:30:59How are we feeling?
0:30:59 > 0:31:02- I just don't want to do it.- You don't want to do it! Bless you!
0:31:02 > 0:31:07- You'll be all right.- Turn round. - Just go for it.- Go! Yeah!
0:31:07 > 0:31:10I tell you what, she's a brave girl. Here we go. It is a bit slippy
0:31:10 > 0:31:13and it looks like a very long way down.
0:31:13 > 0:31:16- Happy?- Go for it!- On three.
0:31:16 > 0:31:18One, two, three...
0:31:23 > 0:31:27It's been great fun. Loved the jumps and the slides. It's been excellent.
0:31:29 > 0:31:32It's great experience to weather when you're in the water.
0:31:34 > 0:31:37It's been cold, it's been wet but it's been brilliant.
0:31:38 > 0:31:42'I'm feeling a bit battered now but I don't want to get left behind.'
0:31:42 > 0:31:44Woo-hoo!
0:31:49 > 0:31:52Continuing my journey through the Lake District,
0:31:52 > 0:31:54I've arrived at the beautiful Rydal Water.
0:32:11 > 0:32:14The Lake District has been immortalised
0:32:14 > 0:32:17by countless poets and other literary giants.
0:32:17 > 0:32:21But in recent history, one name has become synonymous with this area
0:32:21 > 0:32:24and that name is Alfred Wainwright.
0:32:24 > 0:32:29Wainwright became known for his famous pictorial guides to the Lakeland Fells,
0:32:29 > 0:32:32which he compiled between 1952 and 1966.
0:32:35 > 0:32:38I'm on my way to meet photographer Derry Brabbs,
0:32:38 > 0:32:42who spent nearly a decade working closely with Wainwright
0:32:42 > 0:32:44on seven illustrated walking guides.
0:32:44 > 0:32:48- Hello, Derry.- Good morning.- Sorry to disturb you. How are you getting on?
0:32:48 > 0:32:52- On a day like today, getting on famously.- Gosh, I'm not surprised.
0:32:52 > 0:32:55What are you focusing on now? Can I look?
0:32:55 > 0:32:57I've been trying to get a photograph
0:32:57 > 0:33:00of that beautiful boathouse on the other side of Rydal Water
0:33:00 > 0:33:03but I might have to come back later in the day
0:33:03 > 0:33:05when the sun's moved round further.
0:33:05 > 0:33:09- You've photographed this place many times with Wainwright? - Absolutely, yes.
0:33:09 > 0:33:12Tell me a bit about how you got to work with him.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15Almost by accident. I was wanting to do a book on the Pennine Way
0:33:15 > 0:33:18and somebody at the publishers suggested Wainwright
0:33:18 > 0:33:23because he'd already done his famous pocket guide to the Pennine Way.
0:33:23 > 0:33:26But he said before he would do the book on the Pennine Way,
0:33:26 > 0:33:30he said I had to do one on the Lakeland mountains for him.
0:33:30 > 0:33:34The only problem was that I'd never climbed a Lakeland Fell and suffer from vertigo.
0:33:34 > 0:33:37So, in terms of a job description, it wasn't ideal.
0:33:37 > 0:33:40When it comes to photography, how much experience did you have
0:33:40 > 0:33:43and how much did you learn from Wainwright himself?
0:33:43 > 0:33:47I was a novice at the game so it took me a couple of books with him
0:33:47 > 0:33:51before I started to feel comfortable and know my surroundings
0:33:51 > 0:33:56and also get to grips with the extraordinary microclimate that is the Lakeland Fells.
0:33:56 > 0:34:00What are the top tips about capturing, first of all, that incredible mountain
0:34:00 > 0:34:04and also a body of water like this? What do you need?
0:34:04 > 0:34:09Really and truly, the best time for photography is as soon as you can after sunrise
0:34:09 > 0:34:11and just before sunset.
0:34:11 > 0:34:15When the sun's at a low angle, you get rich colours, textures, shadows,
0:34:15 > 0:34:19and it transforms the landscape into a three-dimensional picture
0:34:19 > 0:34:22rather than, as the sun gets higher later on in the day,
0:34:22 > 0:34:26you lose all those wonderful textures and shadows.
0:34:26 > 0:34:28To me, skies are an integral part of the landscape,
0:34:28 > 0:34:32inasmuch as the reflection in the lake is important,
0:34:32 > 0:34:34because that adds another dimension.
0:34:34 > 0:34:37If you're doing a wide-angled picture of a landscape,
0:34:37 > 0:34:39you've got almost half the image is sky.
0:34:39 > 0:34:43And if you're exposing for the darkness of the trees and the water,
0:34:43 > 0:34:47- then it means that inevitably the sky will become bleached out.- OK.
0:34:47 > 0:34:51Use a graduated filter and it reduces the exposure
0:34:51 > 0:34:52that you need in the sky.
0:34:52 > 0:34:57You can either hold it across the lens like that or you can buy filter holders.
0:34:57 > 0:35:00We're going to focus in on those rugged rocks
0:35:00 > 0:35:03because the sun is directly on them, there's a lovely pebbled...
0:35:03 > 0:35:07Is there a man at the very top dressed in red up there? Look.
0:35:07 > 0:35:11- The top of the mound on the right. - It's entirely possible.
0:35:11 > 0:35:15- That's a brave person.- It doesn't look so bad from up there,
0:35:15 > 0:35:18but when you're looking down here...
0:35:18 > 0:35:21and you realise just how much effort is going to be required
0:35:21 > 0:35:22to get to the summit.
0:35:22 > 0:35:26This is why we have heavy tripods, because your heart rate goes so fast
0:35:26 > 0:35:29you could never hold a camera still in a month of Sundays!
0:35:29 > 0:35:32You will find that if you get just a bit more height,
0:35:32 > 0:35:36you can see so much more in the landscape and the whole perspective changes so much.
0:35:36 > 0:35:40- You're not going to make me climb that?- No. But I can take you to a famous viewpoint
0:35:40 > 0:35:46called Loughrigg Terrace, which has stunning views back over Rydal Water and also over Grasmere.
0:35:46 > 0:35:49- Let's do it.- Tally-ho! - Feeling brave.- Yep.
0:35:49 > 0:35:53- Can you manage with that? - Yes, absolutely. I'm used to it.
0:36:00 > 0:36:03- Well, sorry it was a bit of a climb...- It was a bit.
0:36:03 > 0:36:06..but I think you'll find that the retrospective view
0:36:06 > 0:36:08back to Rydal Water is stunning.
0:36:08 > 0:36:12Ah! That is spectacular! There's the boathouse.
0:36:12 > 0:36:15Exactly, and you can see what I mean by height giving you
0:36:15 > 0:36:17a completely fresh perspective on things.
0:36:17 > 0:36:21We had a wonderful view right down by the lakeside
0:36:21 > 0:36:25but how much more can we see now? The lake itself is set into its context
0:36:25 > 0:36:30and that towering mound of Nab Scar becomes less significant now
0:36:30 > 0:36:33as it's developed into part of a ridge of hills.
0:36:33 > 0:36:37So...this is what we could do.
0:36:37 > 0:36:42And personally, I would probably... In fact, I just have,
0:36:42 > 0:36:47taken quite a tight picture, showing the lake with the boathouse as a predominant feature.
0:36:47 > 0:36:49Oh, right, but not in the centre.
0:36:49 > 0:36:52Not in the centre because it would be off-balance
0:36:52 > 0:36:55with so many islands full of great clumps of trees.
0:36:55 > 0:36:59If I zoom out there and recompose the picture,
0:36:59 > 0:37:03you can see, we've put the lake more in the natural setting
0:37:03 > 0:37:06of the fells that surround it.
0:37:06 > 0:37:10The landscape has been here for hundreds of thousands of years untouched.
0:37:10 > 0:37:15And I really do try and avoid photographing man's hand upon the landscape,
0:37:15 > 0:37:20and so, even though everybody's got a perfect right to be here as well,
0:37:20 > 0:37:24I do try and avoid people, too. A bit like Wainwright.
0:37:24 > 0:37:27Wainwright always said that you should walk by yourself.
0:37:27 > 0:37:31If you wanted to walk with somebody, preferably in single file,
0:37:31 > 0:37:35but if you had to walk with somebody side-by-side, you should not talk.
0:37:35 > 0:37:40- Excuse me while I get this... - Go on, then.- Just in case we get the clouds rolling over.
0:37:40 > 0:37:44- True artist, you are. - It's just too good a day to miss.- Aw!
0:37:57 > 0:38:00One of Wainwright's most successful books
0:38:00 > 0:38:03details his famous coast-to-coast walk.
0:38:03 > 0:38:07The route he plotted is still listed as one of the most popular walks
0:38:07 > 0:38:09in the world today.
0:38:09 > 0:38:11We join Julia Bradbury as she hikes part of it
0:38:11 > 0:38:14between Kidsty Pike and Haweswater.
0:38:14 > 0:38:18A succession of rolling whale-back summits with few crags or cliffs
0:38:18 > 0:38:21to block the elements.
0:38:22 > 0:38:25And at the very top is a peak I know well.
0:38:25 > 0:38:29High Street, named after the road once built by Roman soldiers
0:38:29 > 0:38:33to carry them north-south across this inhospitable landscape.
0:38:36 > 0:38:40It would be very tempting at this spot just to go straight on
0:38:40 > 0:38:41towards High Street,
0:38:41 > 0:38:45but actually, you need to take this left turn by the cairn.
0:38:45 > 0:38:49We've come all the way down from Patterdale to the Knot.
0:38:49 > 0:38:53There's the left turn there and that's Twopenny Crag.
0:38:53 > 0:38:55That's what you're looking for.
0:38:57 > 0:39:02Take the path branching over Twopenny Crag, named pre-decimalisation.
0:39:02 > 0:39:07Skirting the rim of Riggindale, take Kidsty Pike.
0:39:07 > 0:39:11The route now follows in the steps of the Romans.
0:39:12 > 0:39:17And there I'm afforded my first view of Kidsty Pike,
0:39:17 > 0:39:19just beyond Twopenny Crag here.
0:39:23 > 0:39:29Maintaining an elevation of more than 2,000 feet for several continuous miles,
0:39:29 > 0:39:35this road is a permanent memorial to the skill of surveyors and the endurance of the legions,
0:39:35 > 0:39:39who marched along it in all weathers.
0:39:43 > 0:39:48Here we are. The highest point on the coast-to-coast route.
0:39:48 > 0:39:54Sadly, you can't see either coast from here, even on a clear day
0:39:54 > 0:39:57but there is a real sense of satisfaction.
0:39:59 > 0:40:03Kidsty Pike is a milestone on the journey.
0:40:03 > 0:40:08The last place to offer a final look at the fells of Lakeland,
0:40:08 > 0:40:11among which the past few days have been spent.
0:40:12 > 0:40:17It is a sad farewell. But they have not gone for ever.
0:40:18 > 0:40:21They will await for other visits in the future
0:40:21 > 0:40:26and, unlike so much else, they will not change.
0:40:26 > 0:40:29Say, "So long," not "goodbye".
0:40:31 > 0:40:35St Bees is just a gentle buzz in the memory now.
0:40:38 > 0:40:41But there's still a long way to go.
0:40:41 > 0:40:44There's Haweswater
0:40:44 > 0:40:47and we've got to go beyond that, all the way to Shap.
0:40:52 > 0:40:56The broad, grassy slopes off the summit are a rugged alpine environment
0:40:56 > 0:41:01offering an ever-increasing view into one of the lake's quieter valleys.
0:41:06 > 0:41:11This is my last descent of the lakes and it's a real thigh-burner.
0:41:11 > 0:41:16But it is the most direct route down, down the spine of Kidsty Pike,
0:41:16 > 0:41:19straight into Haweswater.
0:41:26 > 0:41:30This ridge would have once led me to the old valley of Mardale
0:41:30 > 0:41:32and into the lands of Riggindale Farm.
0:41:36 > 0:41:40But as with so many landmarks, it was wiped from existence 70 years ago,
0:41:40 > 0:41:45when Haweswater the lake was engulfed by Haweswater the reservoir.
0:41:48 > 0:41:50There's a certain beauty about the new reservoir
0:41:50 > 0:41:54but nothing like the romantic charm
0:41:54 > 0:41:57of the old valley.
0:41:57 > 0:42:02There was a natural lake along here called Haweswater.
0:42:02 > 0:42:06There used to be little green pastures, farmhouses.
0:42:08 > 0:42:10It was fringed with rowans and birches
0:42:10 > 0:42:15and there were little beaches where the cows could come and stand.
0:42:15 > 0:42:17All that's gone.
0:42:17 > 0:42:21It's sad. If you knew Mardale as it used to be in 1930,
0:42:21 > 0:42:23this is a sad sight.
0:42:25 > 0:42:27The old beauty's gone from it.
0:42:31 > 0:42:37There's the Haweswater Dam, and that is my symbol that I'm truly leaving the lakes behind me.
0:42:39 > 0:42:43Unlike Julia, I'm not ready to leave the lakes behind just yet
0:42:43 > 0:42:47because my journey has now brought me to the town of Ambleside.
0:42:49 > 0:42:53I don't know about you but after a mammoth walk like I've had,
0:42:53 > 0:42:55I always fancy a nice big, fat slice of cake,
0:42:55 > 0:42:59and, from what I hear, this is the perfect place.
0:42:59 > 0:43:04Ambleside is a bustling town full of specialist shops and eateries.
0:43:04 > 0:43:09I'm visiting one of its restaurants to learn the art of baking an exotic pud with a local twist.
0:43:09 > 0:43:13Lucy, it's safe to say you're bit of a cake freak, right?
0:43:13 > 0:43:16- I do like some of the sweet stuff! - Good stuff! What are we making,
0:43:16 > 0:43:20- cos the ingredients look very interesting?- We've got some quite nice ingredients.
0:43:20 > 0:43:24We're sort of settling into autumn and winter
0:43:24 > 0:43:27I'm making a Cumberland Rum Nicky but with a bit of a difference,
0:43:27 > 0:43:30cos we're using some Grasmere Gingerbread crumbs as well.
0:43:30 > 0:43:32- This stuff? - That's the stuff.
0:43:32 > 0:43:36This has got the secret recipe that nobody can find out. Is that right?
0:43:36 > 0:43:39Yeah. That's the way things should be occasionally.
0:43:39 > 0:43:42- It smells like coming home. It's so gorgeous.- Yes.- It's divine.
0:43:42 > 0:43:45And you won't be telling me what's in it?
0:43:45 > 0:43:47- No, I can't tell you cos even I don't know!- Rubbish!
0:43:47 > 0:43:50Even I can't find that out. It's locked in a vault.
0:43:50 > 0:43:53Usually, the Rum Nicky doesn't have this in it but we're adding...
0:43:53 > 0:43:57No, but I'm putting that in because we like to play around with some of the recipes.
0:43:57 > 0:44:00And we use it a lot on tops of mince pies and things like that,
0:44:00 > 0:44:03and it's lovely on apple crumble, tart and...
0:44:03 > 0:44:06- Gorgeous.- Yeah, it's good.- OK, what do we have to do first?
0:44:06 > 0:44:10First of all, we've already lined our pastry case here
0:44:10 > 0:44:12with some gorgeous pastry
0:44:12 > 0:44:16into which there is icing sugar and zest of oranges.
0:44:17 > 0:44:21- Mmm.- Can you smell that?- Yes. It smells really orange-y, gorgeous.
0:44:21 > 0:44:22- That's a sweet pastry base.- Nice.
0:44:22 > 0:44:27Now we're going to actually cream together our butter and brown sugar.
0:44:27 > 0:44:29Do you want to have a go at doing that?
0:44:29 > 0:44:31Lucy, I have never made a cake in my life.
0:44:31 > 0:44:32Is that really bad?
0:44:32 > 0:44:35No. But there's always a first time for everything.
0:44:35 > 0:44:39Use nice softened butter. That's really good.
0:44:39 > 0:44:41- You just literally...- Work it.
0:44:41 > 0:44:44..working the butter and sugar together.
0:44:44 > 0:44:46Eventually it becomes nice and pale.
0:44:46 > 0:44:49That's wonderful, that's really good.
0:44:49 > 0:44:53Now we're going to add a bit of the good stuff here which...
0:44:53 > 0:44:55- Rum.- Rum.- What kind of rum?
0:44:55 > 0:44:57This is just dark rum.
0:44:57 > 0:44:59So, you wouldn't use white rum?
0:44:59 > 0:45:03No, the dark rum gives it a nice flavour and also
0:45:03 > 0:45:09you've got to remember the origins of this particular style of dessert.
0:45:09 > 0:45:12Tell me about the origin of this, actually.
0:45:12 > 0:45:16Well, the northwest, and particularly Whitehaven
0:45:16 > 0:45:19were very much the spice capital of the North.
0:45:19 > 0:45:26We have things like ginger, dates, the rum, the sugar,
0:45:26 > 0:45:29everything you could possibly need,
0:45:29 > 0:45:32coming in from the West Indies.
0:45:32 > 0:45:33We used to trade with them.
0:45:33 > 0:45:36So we would have all this stuff, guess what they got?
0:45:36 > 0:45:38- What?- Wool.- That's rubbish.
0:45:38 > 0:45:43- I think we got the better deal. - That's a rubbish trade-off. - That's the ginger syrup.
0:45:43 > 0:45:45Ginger syrup. What kind of ginger is that?
0:45:45 > 0:45:49This is just stem ginger. So, it's nice.
0:45:49 > 0:45:52- My dad used to love this. - I love it.
0:45:52 > 0:45:56- This is good fun.- Now, we've got a nice, creamy mixture there.
0:45:56 > 0:45:58- Put that to one side.- OK.
0:45:58 > 0:46:01Now we need to mix all these drier ingredients together.
0:46:01 > 0:46:05It's very easy. Here we've got some dates.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08I'm going to tip those in like that, aren't they gorgeous?
0:46:08 > 0:46:11- They are.- Can you smell those? - It all smells divine.
0:46:11 > 0:46:14It's really nice and comforting.
0:46:14 > 0:46:18We've got some nice plump raisins here which are lovely,
0:46:18 > 0:46:20which go into there and mix in.
0:46:20 > 0:46:22- Yes.- The ginger.- I love it.
0:46:22 > 0:46:25Finally, we'll have to grate some apple now.
0:46:25 > 0:46:28Do you use the skin of the apple or just the flesh?
0:46:28 > 0:46:31I tend to put the skin in as well. But you can do whatever.
0:46:31 > 0:46:32I'm going to put the skin in
0:46:32 > 0:46:34because I like it and we've washed it.
0:46:34 > 0:46:38- How much apple would you use? - I use the whole apple.
0:46:38 > 0:46:40- Grand.- So we go straight through into it.
0:46:40 > 0:46:43- All right?- It's nice and juicy. - Absolutely.
0:46:43 > 0:46:45It will add a nice bit of liquid together with it.
0:46:45 > 0:46:48So, we're going to go right the way down.
0:46:48 > 0:46:51And then we are going to put this mixture,
0:46:51 > 0:46:53we are going to mix it all up together.
0:46:53 > 0:46:56So, we'll put that to one side.
0:46:56 > 0:46:58OK, I'm going to mix this with my hands.
0:46:58 > 0:47:01All right? Hands came before implements.
0:47:01 > 0:47:03I'm happy to do that.
0:47:03 > 0:47:05See how that nicely...
0:47:05 > 0:47:07Straight on to the floor, that's good(!)
0:47:07 > 0:47:11- It's nicely glistening up. - That looks yummy.
0:47:11 > 0:47:14- OK, so it's nothing...- I would just eat that with a spoon, Lucy.
0:47:14 > 0:47:15Well, you could do.
0:47:15 > 0:47:18It's very like mincemeat type of thing, isn't it?
0:47:18 > 0:47:21- It's that sort of filling. - Great stuff.
0:47:21 > 0:47:23We'll get our nice, little pastry base.
0:47:23 > 0:47:25Don't worry that it's not all... Can you see?
0:47:25 > 0:47:28I mean, this one is a loose-bottomed one.
0:47:28 > 0:47:32Don't worry that it's not neat. People get very fanatical about...
0:47:32 > 0:47:36I prefer food that looks rustic and rough than really, really neat.
0:47:36 > 0:47:39Yes. A lot of it's about... We do eat with our eyes,
0:47:39 > 0:47:44so you need to make sure that it's got some nice textures with it.
0:47:44 > 0:47:47- And it's not slapped on the plate. - Fair enough.
0:47:47 > 0:47:50- That looks great.- That's all going on to the top there.
0:47:50 > 0:47:53So, that looks nice,
0:47:53 > 0:47:57you can see that you've got a nice, even spread of the mixture.
0:47:57 > 0:48:00- All right.- Then we're going to put that...
0:48:00 > 0:48:02just spread that out on the top, really.
0:48:02 > 0:48:03OK.
0:48:03 > 0:48:10As that cooks, that's going to melt through into it.
0:48:10 > 0:48:12So you can get that right out.
0:48:12 > 0:48:16Not much left to lick, but they say you're never too old to lick the bowl,
0:48:16 > 0:48:19- I already thought of that. - You already thought about that?
0:48:19 > 0:48:21You weren't going to... Yeah, look at that!
0:48:21 > 0:48:23No, no, no, that's not going on the cake.
0:48:23 > 0:48:26- Is that nice?- It's so good.
0:48:26 > 0:48:27- Yeah...- Good.
0:48:29 > 0:48:32This is the bit where we make it a little bit different.
0:48:32 > 0:48:38Normally, you would take some more of the pastry and lattice it over.
0:48:38 > 0:48:39We're still going to do that,
0:48:39 > 0:48:42but we are going to take some of these crumbs.
0:48:42 > 0:48:46If you can't get hold of the Grasmere gingerbread,
0:48:46 > 0:48:48then use ginger biscuits finely chopped.
0:48:48 > 0:48:50Feel how a course that is.
0:48:50 > 0:48:53- There's a nice piece there, you could eat that.- Go on, them.
0:48:53 > 0:48:55It's quite different, isn't it?
0:48:55 > 0:48:58It is not like a Ginger Nut.
0:48:58 > 0:49:00It is so much nicer.
0:49:00 > 0:49:01It's heaven.
0:49:01 > 0:49:04I'm going to literally just put a couple of, well,
0:49:04 > 0:49:07three lines of ginger crumbs.
0:49:07 > 0:49:09And the pastry will be across it?
0:49:09 > 0:49:12- The pastry, I'm going to lattice across it.- Cool.
0:49:23 > 0:49:25- So, there we go.- Fun!
0:49:25 > 0:49:27There we are, that is your very own
0:49:27 > 0:49:31Cumberland Grasmere gingerbread Rum Nicky.
0:49:31 > 0:49:35- Awesome. And how long in the oven? - About 40 minutes.
0:49:35 > 0:49:38And we're actually going to serve that up tonight.
0:49:38 > 0:49:39- We are.- For pudding night.
0:49:39 > 0:49:42It better be OK, but with your guidance,
0:49:42 > 0:49:44- I have no worries whatsoever. - It'll be fine.
0:49:44 > 0:49:46It'll be absolutely fine.
0:49:46 > 0:49:49It has to be fine because I don't have one I made earlier.
0:49:49 > 0:49:50No pressure.
0:49:50 > 0:49:55Don't drop it, don't drop it, don't drop it. Right, then.
0:49:55 > 0:49:5740 minutes in this oven
0:49:57 > 0:50:02and this Rum Nicky should be edible and acceptable for all
0:50:02 > 0:50:06the pudding fanatics at Lucy's pudding night in her restaurant.
0:50:06 > 0:50:08Fingers crossed.
0:50:08 > 0:50:11But before that, here's the Country Tracks weather for the week ahead.
0:52:49 > 0:52:57.
0:53:05 > 0:53:08Today, I have been on a journey through the Lake District.
0:53:08 > 0:53:10I began in the North Lakes,
0:53:10 > 0:53:13in England's only true of mountain forest at Whinlatter.
0:53:13 > 0:53:17I travelled to Keswick and learned how a pencil factory played
0:53:17 > 0:53:21a key role keeping RAF pilots safe behind enemy lines
0:53:21 > 0:53:22in the Second World War.
0:53:22 > 0:53:26Then I spent the afternoon with a photographer whose collaboration
0:53:26 > 0:53:30with Alfred Wainwright helped record the area's magnificent scenery.
0:53:30 > 0:53:33Now I'm ending my journey in the town of Ambleside.
0:53:33 > 0:53:37Right, the moment of truth.
0:53:37 > 0:53:40It's actually not looking too bad.
0:53:40 > 0:53:43Wow! Look at that.
0:53:43 > 0:53:47OK. Look at that.
0:53:47 > 0:53:50It actually smells amazing, but I've got to serve this up
0:53:50 > 0:53:54to everyone in that restaurant, so hopefully they will like it.
0:53:54 > 0:53:58Because you know what they say, the proof of the pudding and all that.
0:54:04 > 0:54:07Each month, Lucy's restaurant celebrates all things sweet
0:54:07 > 0:54:11with a night exclusively devoted to puddings.
0:54:13 > 0:54:15From a list of 11 deserts,
0:54:15 > 0:54:18each customer gets to choose six to feast on.
0:54:21 > 0:54:23My very own Rum Nicky is high on that list
0:54:23 > 0:54:28and I want to discover how it's going down with the dessert aficionados
0:54:28 > 0:54:32before getting stuck into six delicious puddings myself.
0:54:33 > 0:54:35Hello, did you order Rum Nicky?
0:54:35 > 0:54:37There you go.
0:54:37 > 0:54:39Now, I made that with my own fair hands
0:54:39 > 0:54:42and I would love you to tell me what you think of it.
0:54:42 > 0:54:46- What's the sauce? - It's a rum butter.
0:54:49 > 0:54:52- That's really nice.- Really?
0:54:52 > 0:54:53- It's really rich.- Awesome! Awesome.
0:54:53 > 0:54:56What's the sauce again...?
0:55:02 > 0:55:04That is really nice.
0:55:04 > 0:55:08- Is that the kind of dessert you usually eat?- Not really, no.
0:55:08 > 0:55:10- I'm more of a chocolate person... - Yeah.
0:55:10 > 0:55:14..more often than not. But I am a big fan of rum, so...
0:55:14 > 0:55:17- Mmm.- Mm-hmm? Yeah? You sure?
0:55:17 > 0:55:19- Smooth.- Smooth?
0:55:25 > 0:55:27- And can you taste the rum? - Yes, you can actually.
0:55:27 > 0:55:30You got a double helping of rum there because
0:55:30 > 0:55:34there's some in the cake and you've got your rum butter to go with it.
0:55:34 > 0:55:36I don't think I'll sleep tonight.
0:55:36 > 0:55:39- The problem is you have to choose 6 from 11.- Difficult?
0:55:39 > 0:55:42You just have to come back and do the others another time.
0:55:42 > 0:55:45How does this rate compared to the others so far?
0:55:45 > 0:55:47So far, they've all been nice.
0:55:47 > 0:55:50I mean, I like them sweet, but not too sweet.
0:55:50 > 0:55:52Is that too sweet for you, or is that OK?
0:55:52 > 0:55:55Well, I think this one, you can give a little bit of leeway with this one.
0:55:55 > 0:55:58- It's meant to be sweet, but not too sweet.- Awesome.
0:55:58 > 0:56:02Thank you so much for your feedback. I'll leave you in peace now,
0:56:02 > 0:56:05because it's time for me to try six puddings. Awesome.
0:56:11 > 0:56:15My journey through the Lake District has been inspiring,
0:56:15 > 0:56:17enlightening, educational,
0:56:17 > 0:56:20and above all stupendously beautiful.
0:56:20 > 0:56:23This might be a slightly unusual way to finish it,
0:56:23 > 0:56:26but I'm ready. Bring on my desserts.
0:56:26 > 0:56:28SONG: "Yummy, Yummy, Yummy."
0:57:06 > 0:57:08Does anybody have any liver salts?
0:57:20 > 0:57:23Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:57:23 > 0:57:26E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk