0:00:20 > 0:00:23Today I'm on a journey through East Anglia.
0:00:23 > 0:00:26I'll be meeting iconic animals, intriguing characters
0:00:26 > 0:00:29and sampling some of the delights that Suffolk has to offer.
0:00:35 > 0:00:38'My journey begins on a farm in the village of Rede,
0:00:38 > 0:00:40'where I will be helping to train
0:00:40 > 0:00:44'one of the rarest horse breeds in the world,
0:00:44 > 0:00:47'and hear of a foal's amazing story of survival.'
0:00:47 > 0:00:50The old mare was glad to have, well, not a companion,
0:00:50 > 0:00:53but she liked the idea of having another young one, I think.
0:00:53 > 0:00:57'From there, it's a short trip to Bury St Edmunds,
0:00:57 > 0:01:00'where I'll visit the ancient ruins of the Abbey
0:01:00 > 0:01:03'and learn about the origins of our legal system.
0:01:03 > 0:01:06'My next stop is near the border with Norfolk,
0:01:06 > 0:01:08'where I'll be finding out
0:01:08 > 0:01:10'what it's like to own your very own piece of woodland.'
0:01:10 > 0:01:13What made you pick this particular bit of woodland?
0:01:13 > 0:01:16Because it was breathtakingly beautiful.
0:01:16 > 0:01:18'My journey ends on the coast at Orford,
0:01:18 > 0:01:21'where I'll taste some of Suffolk's specialities
0:01:21 > 0:01:24'and follow food from sea to plate.'
0:01:24 > 0:01:25Ah!
0:01:25 > 0:01:30Along the way, I'll look back at the best of the BBC's rural programmes
0:01:30 > 0:01:31from this part of the world.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34Welcome to Country Tracks.
0:01:34 > 0:01:38'The Suffolk countryside prides itself on being an authentic slice
0:01:38 > 0:01:42'of real England, with a wide variety of landscape.
0:01:42 > 0:01:45'There is woodland, coastline, farmland and ancient towns,
0:01:45 > 0:01:47'but few hills.
0:01:47 > 0:01:51'In fact, Suffolk is very flat, creating vast skies
0:01:51 > 0:01:54'and a great feeling of open space.
0:01:54 > 0:01:57'The county is edged with 40 miles of coastline to the east,
0:01:57 > 0:02:02'which is largely unspoiled, and dotted with shingle beaches.'
0:02:02 > 0:02:06But I'm starting inland, pretty near to Bury St Edmunds.
0:02:06 > 0:02:08I've come to this farm in Rede
0:02:08 > 0:02:10to meet one of the icons of the county -
0:02:10 > 0:02:12the Suffolk Punch horses.
0:02:15 > 0:02:18'These beautiful animals are one of the oldest breeds
0:02:18 > 0:02:22'of working horse in the world. They have the longest written pedigree of any such breed,
0:02:22 > 0:02:26'which specifies their colouring and unique shape.
0:02:26 > 0:02:29'Although the Suffolk Punch is held fondly in the hearts of many,
0:02:29 > 0:02:31'they are sadly now very rare,
0:02:31 > 0:02:33'and are classed as critical
0:02:33 > 0:02:37'on the Rare Breeds Species Trust watch list.
0:02:37 > 0:02:41'Fewer and fewer are being used for working the fields.
0:02:41 > 0:02:44'Thankfully, there are people, like Nigel Oakley,
0:02:44 > 0:02:45'who truly love the breed
0:02:45 > 0:02:49'and are working hard to increase their popularity and numbers.
0:02:49 > 0:02:53'Jasper is a five-year-old Suffolk Punch.'
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- How many Suffolk Punches are left? - About 500.
0:02:57 > 0:02:59- In the entire world?- Yeah.
0:02:59 > 0:03:03The Suffolk Horse Society in Woodbridge monitors the whole breed.
0:03:03 > 0:03:06It still monitors the Australians,
0:03:06 > 0:03:08like New Zealand, Australia and so on.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12The Americans have a Suffolk Horse Society.
0:03:12 > 0:03:15But it's not recognised in England.
0:03:15 > 0:03:20- Are you worried about the number of Suffolk Punches that are left? - I don't think I do.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23When I started keeping Suffolks 30 years ago,
0:03:23 > 0:03:25there were only something like 240.
0:03:25 > 0:03:27Last year, we had 50 live foals,
0:03:27 > 0:03:31which was the best year since 1950-something.
0:03:31 > 0:03:33He looks great. He's great for working for you,
0:03:33 > 0:03:34but why do you think
0:03:34 > 0:03:38it's so important to make sure we keep breeding Suffolk Punches?
0:03:38 > 0:03:42Well, I think it's essential we don't lose any of our breeds,
0:03:42 > 0:03:44whether they are native birds, animals...
0:03:44 > 0:03:48Suffolk's a beautiful county. The Breadbasket of England.
0:03:48 > 0:03:50All the cereals were grown in East Anglia,
0:03:50 > 0:03:53and that horse shaped this county,
0:03:53 > 0:03:56because he worked the field, and I think it's a shame
0:03:56 > 0:03:59if our grandchildren's children don't have the privilege
0:03:59 > 0:04:01to do what we're doing now.
0:04:03 > 0:04:07'Obviously, the survival of the Suffolks depends on breeding them,
0:04:07 > 0:04:11'which Nigel happens to be good at. There are a couple of foals on the farm.
0:04:11 > 0:04:14'One in particular has had a tough start in life,
0:04:14 > 0:04:17'but thanks to the amazing support of one of the older mares,
0:04:17 > 0:04:18'the foal has survived.'
0:04:18 > 0:04:22Right, Nigel, who have we got here?
0:04:22 > 0:04:27We've got Philippa holding Pride, a mare that I bred.
0:04:27 > 0:04:31She's an elderly mare of 17.
0:04:31 > 0:04:36The foal is Max, who Debbie is holding.
0:04:36 > 0:04:37Debbie's doing well to hold!
0:04:37 > 0:04:41Debbie, bless her, is used to this sort of thing.
0:04:41 > 0:04:44Max is a four-month-old foal.
0:04:44 > 0:04:46And what's unique about these two,
0:04:46 > 0:04:51they aren't really mare and foal, or mother and daughter.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56'Max's mother sadly didn't survive after his birth,
0:04:56 > 0:04:58'and bottle-feeding isn't a great option,
0:04:58 > 0:05:00'as the foal becomes humanised.
0:05:00 > 0:05:06'So, Nigel decided to put this mare Pride with Max for companionship.'
0:05:07 > 0:05:10We brought the mare in and, obviously,
0:05:10 > 0:05:13you don't put them together straightaway.
0:05:13 > 0:05:16We let the mare see the foal and let it sniff the foal.
0:05:16 > 0:05:18It wasn't long before we realised
0:05:18 > 0:05:21it wasn't going to be a problem,
0:05:21 > 0:05:25that the old mare was glad to have, well, not a companion,
0:05:25 > 0:05:28but she liked the idea of having another young one, I think.
0:05:28 > 0:05:33The foal didn't even realise it was a different horse, I'm certain.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36It was that young that, from the foal's point of view,
0:05:36 > 0:05:41it was very easy to get an adoption onto that mare.
0:05:41 > 0:05:45But the mare, not only did she take to the foal as a companion,
0:05:45 > 0:05:49but within three days, she started to bag up and come in to milk,
0:05:49 > 0:05:51which I've never known with a horse.
0:05:51 > 0:05:56And now, she's actually feeding, or was when we last checked it,
0:05:56 > 0:05:58feeding full-strength milk to the foal,
0:05:58 > 0:06:01so it's nothing shorter than some really good news.
0:06:01 > 0:06:04- That's a mini-miracle, isn't it? - It's a major miracle.
0:06:04 > 0:06:06- A major miracle!- A major miracle.
0:06:07 > 0:06:09'It's important to Nigel
0:06:09 > 0:06:12'his Suffolks are well behaved and represent their breed well.
0:06:12 > 0:06:14'So, training them to work the fields is
0:06:14 > 0:06:16'a big part of what he does.'
0:06:16 > 0:06:19Nigel, what are you getting Jasper to do?
0:06:19 > 0:06:22What I'm getting to do is teaching him to stand square,
0:06:22 > 0:06:24go back when I tell him.
0:06:24 > 0:06:29Go back. If you're working him, the horse has got to back readily.
0:06:29 > 0:06:33Come on. Go on, go back. Don't worry about them chickens. Go back.
0:06:33 > 0:06:38Go on. Whoa. That's it, good boy.
0:06:38 > 0:06:43And then I want him to stand there without me holding him. Stand up!
0:06:43 > 0:06:46If I was ploughing in the field and I wanted to adjust the plough,
0:06:46 > 0:06:50the horse should stand there quiet, because if he goes forward,
0:06:50 > 0:06:53he'll tighten the chain, so I wouldn't know where I was.
0:06:53 > 0:06:54It's like with a dog,
0:06:54 > 0:06:57one of the most important things you need them to do is stand still.
0:06:57 > 0:07:00- That's right.- What you're doing is taking the stress out of the horse.
0:07:00 > 0:07:03If the horse is content to stand doing nothing,
0:07:03 > 0:07:05then he's not going to get stressed
0:07:05 > 0:07:07and be told to behave himself all the time.
0:07:07 > 0:07:12The secret with a horse that hasn't worked is to do it regularly.
0:07:12 > 0:07:15You'd better do ten minutes a day, every day.
0:07:15 > 0:07:21- The horse gets handled on a regular basis and keeps to a routine.- Yes.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25There's a good boy. Come up, then. Come up. Oi.
0:07:25 > 0:07:28'Today, the horses are only occasionally used
0:07:28 > 0:07:30'for ploughing and field work,
0:07:30 > 0:07:32'because there have been advances in technology
0:07:32 > 0:07:35'that replaced their natural strength,
0:07:35 > 0:07:37'as Jimmy Doherty found out.'
0:07:37 > 0:07:40For me, this is such a familiar landscape.
0:07:40 > 0:07:44It fills me full of joy, because the huge skies, massive horizons,
0:07:44 > 0:07:48and it's a space that you can really dream in.
0:07:48 > 0:07:53But the weird thing is that, in terms of farming, it's really alien to me.
0:07:53 > 0:07:56My farm's just down the road. It's 150 acres.
0:07:56 > 0:07:59But I'm pin prick in terms of food production.
0:07:59 > 0:08:01I mean, some of the farms here,
0:08:01 > 0:08:04some of the fields, are bigger than my entire farm.
0:08:04 > 0:08:08I really want to understand how these big boys produce
0:08:08 > 0:08:10such huge quantities of food.
0:08:17 > 0:08:19- Hi, Jim. - How are you getting on, Ali?
0:08:19 > 0:08:21Not too bad at all, and yourself?
0:08:21 > 0:08:25- All right, not bad, not bad. Harvest time, busy?- Very busy. Very busy.
0:08:25 > 0:08:29'Ali Kerr's the key man behind this large-scale set-up.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32'He's the third generation of his family to farm here.'
0:08:32 > 0:08:37- It's like a house in here. Look at this!- It costs the same.
0:08:37 > 0:08:41'I'm here to help him harvest in this 300 grand machine.'
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- How do I operate this beast? - Push the pedal on the floor
0:08:44 > 0:08:46and you pull the steering wheel back. Keep it close to you.
0:08:46 > 0:08:48Get it so you're comfortable.
0:08:48 > 0:08:51This is terrifying. Here we are. Right.
0:08:51 > 0:08:53- Have you ever crashed it?- No.
0:08:53 > 0:08:57- Don't crash it. The handle is called a joystick.- Yeah.
0:08:57 > 0:09:01- The buttons on it control the front. - Yeah.- Fire it up to full power.
0:09:01 > 0:09:04- Maximum power.- Maximum power.
0:09:04 > 0:09:05Take the yellow switch, lift it up.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10So, your front is now OK.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12- Ready?- Yeah, let's do it.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31It's now starting to feed its way into the front of the crop.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39You need to press the "A" button on the lever.
0:09:39 > 0:09:41- Where's the "A"? Here? - Yeah. Press that.
0:09:41 > 0:09:45Your green light comes on. Let go of the steering wheel.
0:09:45 > 0:09:47- And it's now steering for you.- What?!
0:09:52 > 0:09:54'Nothing is left to chance here.
0:09:54 > 0:10:00'It's precision farming, driving down costs and increasing efficiency.
0:10:00 > 0:10:04'The harvester is now using infrared beams to line itself up
0:10:04 > 0:10:07'with the edges of the crop.
0:10:07 > 0:10:11'That keeps it cutting in straight lines.
0:10:11 > 0:10:13'No part of the field is missed or overlapped.
0:10:18 > 0:10:20'And all the time, on-board sensors are measuring
0:10:20 > 0:10:23'exactly how much wheat is being harvested.'
0:10:23 > 0:10:27- It's recording the amount of crop coming into the combine.- Yeah.
0:10:27 > 0:10:32As you get all that crop coming in, it's bringing it in from 30 feet.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35It's recording that volume of crop the whole time.
0:10:38 > 0:10:42'The crop output is then matched up with a satellite map
0:10:42 > 0:10:48'to tell Ali exactly how well each part of his farm is performing.
0:10:48 > 0:10:50'Blue areas are producing high yields,
0:10:50 > 0:10:54'the orange ones are doing badly. Ali can target precisely
0:10:54 > 0:10:58'where chemical fertilisers are needed, so none get wasted.
0:11:01 > 0:11:06'Even the crop itself has been designed for maximum efficiency.
0:11:06 > 0:11:09'New varieties of wheat were developed in the 1960s,
0:11:09 > 0:11:13'part of what became known as the Green Revolution.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16'They were shorter, but higher yielding.'
0:11:16 > 0:11:19If you only get a limited amount of sunlight,
0:11:19 > 0:11:21you don't want to use it to grow straw.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23To feed the world, you've got to grow wheat.
0:11:23 > 0:11:25That's what the Green Revolution was.
0:11:25 > 0:11:26This was the breakthrough,
0:11:26 > 0:11:31reducing the height of the corn and producing higher yields.
0:11:31 > 0:11:32By reducing it down,
0:11:32 > 0:11:35we can focus more of that sunlight on producing ears.
0:11:35 > 0:11:38You weren't looking to produce straw.
0:11:38 > 0:11:42- You're interested in the business end, this bit here.- Yeah.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- And not the stalk, which would be wasted.- Yeah.
0:11:45 > 0:11:46If the crop was so high,
0:11:46 > 0:11:49with the weight of the corn, it would fall over.
0:11:49 > 0:11:53- It helps it be nice and sturdy. - We're trying to produce food,
0:11:53 > 0:11:56so we focus on producing food and not the by-product.
0:12:03 > 0:12:06'Advances like these have seen yields in wheat
0:12:06 > 0:12:10'triple in Britain in the past 50 years.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14'That sounds impressive to me.
0:12:14 > 0:12:19'Especially when you think what this kind of farming used to be like.
0:12:19 > 0:12:24'Just two generations ago, getting the harvest in would have been
0:12:24 > 0:12:27'a lot harder work, and a lot less efficient.
0:12:27 > 0:12:33'And this is what you used - the horse-drawn binder.'
0:12:33 > 0:12:36- It's much quieter than a combine. - It is at the moment.
0:12:36 > 0:12:39Once I start it up, it clanks and bangs a bit.
0:12:39 > 0:12:41- You haven't got that engine sound.- No.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44- There's something quite graceful about it.- Oh, yeah.
0:12:44 > 0:12:46Whoa.
0:12:46 > 0:12:50Go on.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53Go on, Al.
0:12:53 > 0:12:57'This contraption cut and tied the stalks of wheat into the sheaves.
0:12:59 > 0:13:04'It was still the main way of harvesting right up until the 1930s.'
0:13:04 > 0:13:07Brilliant.
0:13:07 > 0:13:11It's taking in the crops and being cut at the bottom.
0:13:11 > 0:13:14As they come through, they come bound.
0:13:16 > 0:13:19You've lost...
0:13:19 > 0:13:22You've lost a part of it!
0:13:22 > 0:13:26'It's fair to say that it wasn't always reliable.'
0:13:30 > 0:13:31First problem?
0:13:31 > 0:13:36- First problem?- What is it? Has something spooked them?
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- No, he's just being lazy.- Combines don't have that problem.- They don't.
0:13:40 > 0:13:44'The big breakthrough was designing a single device
0:13:44 > 0:13:46'that could thresh the wheat on the move,
0:13:46 > 0:13:51'removing the straw and husk and leaving the all-important grain.
0:13:51 > 0:13:54'Combining all these jobs in one machine gave us
0:13:54 > 0:13:57'the combine harvester.'
0:13:57 > 0:14:02- Right, blimey. Go on, lads, go on.- Alf, get on.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05Have you got the break on? Go on, Alf.
0:14:05 > 0:14:08Woo hoo hoo!
0:14:14 > 0:14:15Come on, lads.
0:14:15 > 0:14:20Let's get it harvested. Come on, fellas.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22- That's it. Do I look like Ben Hur?- Yeah!
0:14:22 > 0:14:25HE LAUGHS
0:14:25 > 0:14:28'It's tempting to get nostalgic about the old days,
0:14:28 > 0:14:31'when farmers relied more on skill and muscle
0:14:31 > 0:14:33'than on science and technology.
0:14:33 > 0:14:37'But this shows how hard it was for our grandparents' generation
0:14:37 > 0:14:38'to put bread on the table.'
0:14:38 > 0:14:40I'll beat that other machine!
0:14:42 > 0:14:43Whoa, whoa!
0:14:46 > 0:14:51Here he comes, whoa, whoa, whoa. Are you catching up yet?
0:14:51 > 0:14:54We've just about caught up. How did you get on?
0:14:54 > 0:14:58A cinch, no problem at all. I've just done this strip here.
0:14:58 > 0:15:01We've got about eight little stacks. Quite impressed, really.
0:15:01 > 0:15:04What have you been doing with all your time?
0:15:04 > 0:15:07This is what you call the convertible version of yours.
0:15:07 > 0:15:12But in terms of getting a harvest in, yeah, it's not brilliant.
0:15:12 > 0:15:15But to be fair to it, this machine was designed to collect
0:15:15 > 0:15:18a completely different type of wheat.
0:15:18 > 0:15:23Not your short, fat variety that you grow - the tall, elegant variety.
0:15:23 > 0:15:25- Exactly.- How long do you reckon it'll take
0:15:25 > 0:15:26to harvest this whole field?
0:15:26 > 0:15:28To harvest it and collect it, a few days,
0:15:28 > 0:15:31and then probably another two days to thrash.
0:15:31 > 0:15:33- A good week's work. - For about 15 men.
0:15:33 > 0:15:3515 men here. And for you?
0:15:35 > 0:15:39An hour. And it's threshed at the end of it.
0:15:39 > 0:15:43I have to keep going up and down... That's yours.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46Hang on, this is your stuff.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49- You carry it back to the barn. - It's all money.- Come on, load up.
0:15:49 > 0:15:52But I have to keep going up and down and turning round.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54- One more.- And then...
0:15:54 > 0:15:57- You've got to get it back before it rains.- You swine!
0:15:57 > 0:16:00'Ali's style of farming may not be romantic.
0:16:00 > 0:16:04'But ultimately, its efficiency is something we all rely on.'
0:16:07 > 0:16:10'After meeting the Suffolk punch horses,
0:16:10 > 0:16:14'I reckon the old-fashioned way is still the best.
0:16:14 > 0:16:16'It's just a short journey from Rede
0:16:16 > 0:16:19'to the nearby town of Bury St Edmunds.
0:16:19 > 0:16:25'This is a beautiful market town with a rich and important history.
0:16:25 > 0:16:28'The buildings are made up of mediaeval architecture,
0:16:28 > 0:16:30'elegant Georgian squares
0:16:30 > 0:16:33'and, of course, the Abbey Cathedral and gardens.
0:16:33 > 0:16:38'Lying here are the remains of once the wealthiest
0:16:38 > 0:16:43'and most powerful Benedictine abbey in England.'
0:16:43 > 0:16:46The abbey was established in 1020,
0:16:46 > 0:16:49but it wasn't finished until the turn of the 13th century.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52This is the magnificent West front.
0:16:52 > 0:16:56Although its use has been changed and it's now used for accommodation,
0:16:56 > 0:16:59you can still see where the original arches are.
0:17:05 > 0:17:07The relationship between the abbey
0:17:07 > 0:17:09and the townspeople wasn't always great.
0:17:09 > 0:17:12That's because there was such a huge divide
0:17:12 > 0:17:15between the riches inside and the poverty outside.
0:17:15 > 0:17:20It all came to a head in the summer of 1327 with a series of riots
0:17:20 > 0:17:24in which this side entrance was completely destroyed.
0:17:24 > 0:17:28The monks were quick to rebuild, and by 1347, this had been resurrected.
0:17:28 > 0:17:32'In the mid-1500s, King Henry VIII took hold of the Abbey
0:17:32 > 0:17:35'and began to strip it of its valuables,
0:17:35 > 0:17:38'including the building materials holding it together,
0:17:38 > 0:17:41'so it slowly crumbled, and much of it was lost.'
0:17:41 > 0:17:45At first glance, this might look like a load of jagged ruins,
0:17:45 > 0:17:48but when you spend a bit of time here,
0:17:48 > 0:17:51you start to appreciate that these piles of stones
0:17:51 > 0:17:55are a beautiful reminder of the history in Bury St Edmunds.
0:17:55 > 0:17:59'The Abbey of Bury St Edmunds was also the location
0:17:59 > 0:18:03'of an incredibly important meeting in 1214.
0:18:03 > 0:18:05'It secured the future of the Magna Carta,
0:18:05 > 0:18:09'a rulebook written by the barons and bishops of the time
0:18:09 > 0:18:12'which went on to become the framework
0:18:12 > 0:18:15'of our democratic legal system.
0:18:15 > 0:18:19'Local businessman and historian Simon Pott begins the story
0:18:19 > 0:18:21'at the time of King John.'
0:18:21 > 0:18:25These were an oppressed people, the people in Britain at the time,
0:18:25 > 0:18:30because King John, while he had many good attributes, I'm sure,
0:18:30 > 0:18:34was a bit of a bully and had his own way.
0:18:34 > 0:18:39Therefore the barons, the bishops and the Archbishop
0:18:39 > 0:18:41wanted to have an understanding
0:18:41 > 0:18:44of where the law went, how was this going to develop
0:18:44 > 0:18:48in order that people had what we now know as rights?
0:18:48 > 0:18:51- So they wanted to rein the King in?- Yes.
0:18:51 > 0:18:53Why did they decide to come here?
0:18:53 > 0:18:55This was the biggest place of pilgrimage
0:18:55 > 0:18:58in this part of the country, so truly huge.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02Bear in mind the size of the Benedictine Abbey, quite enormous.
0:19:02 > 0:19:05Therefore, a position in which St Edmund...
0:19:05 > 0:19:08And St Edmund's Day is 20th November,
0:19:08 > 0:19:11and the reason the barons came here on St Edmund's Day
0:19:11 > 0:19:15was because it was a good cover for them all coming and getting together.
0:19:15 > 0:19:19They pretended they were coming for St Edmund's Day?
0:19:19 > 0:19:23Yes, and they bowed in front of the high altar and paid allegiance
0:19:23 > 0:19:27to the King, who they were about to try and stab in the back.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- But they were writing a rulebook for the King?- Absolutely.
0:19:30 > 0:19:36Then they got together and created this exercise
0:19:36 > 0:19:39about the various things they felt they needed
0:19:39 > 0:19:42for the people of the country.
0:19:42 > 0:19:46The secret meeting of the barons took place here in 1214,
0:19:46 > 0:19:50but it wasn't until 1215 they actually met with King John
0:19:50 > 0:19:54in the town of Runnymede where he signed the Magna Carta.
0:19:54 > 0:19:56It wasn't a quick process, though, was it?
0:19:56 > 0:19:59No, no. It'd taken place over some years,
0:19:59 > 0:20:02but then this was fundamentally changing the power of the King.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05And changing the way that a lot of Europe is governed today?
0:20:05 > 0:20:10- And the world. - Do you think people realise how significant the Magna Carta is?
0:20:10 > 0:20:13Because it's a historical document kids learn about.
0:20:13 > 0:20:15That's what we're trying to create here.
0:20:15 > 0:20:17We're trying to say this was an astonishing bit of work,
0:20:17 > 0:20:19an astonishing bit of law-making.
0:20:19 > 0:20:25It didn't stay completely unchanged. What happened, at least it created the springboard
0:20:25 > 0:20:30for the rest of people who now know and understand and love the rights that they have.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33We're walking over towards this plaque. What is this plaque?
0:20:33 > 0:20:37This, near this spot, as it says, they met.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40On the left-hand side are the various people for whom we really should be
0:20:40 > 0:20:44very grateful for the work that their forebears did.
0:20:44 > 0:20:50- We're talking about a register of people who came here in 1214.- Yep.
0:20:50 > 0:20:53It's phenomenal to think that those people met here
0:20:53 > 0:20:57and created something that had such a legacy for the rest of the world.
0:20:59 > 0:21:03'A lot of the abbey remains are still hidden underground.
0:21:03 > 0:21:06'When Matt Baker came to this area, he discovered
0:21:06 > 0:21:09'another of East Anglia's hidden secrets.'
0:21:11 > 0:21:15This is Britain's largest protected wetland.
0:21:15 > 0:21:19A stunning 188 square miles of lakes and rivers.
0:21:23 > 0:21:27It's easy to forget that this watery wilderness is all man-made,
0:21:27 > 0:21:33the result of excavations that began over 1,000 years ago.
0:21:33 > 0:21:36This whole area was once manually dug for peat
0:21:36 > 0:21:39and when sea levels rose, it all naturally flooded,
0:21:39 > 0:21:45creating this waterscape of reeds, windmills, boats and utter peace.
0:21:47 > 0:21:50I'm sailing along here isn't just the best way to see
0:21:50 > 0:21:54the quieter parts of the Broads, it's the only way.
0:21:56 > 0:21:59'Although these waters can get busy with over 12,000 boats each year,
0:21:59 > 0:22:04'I'm looking for the one part of the Broads that is hardly ever visited.
0:22:05 > 0:22:10'A real treat right off the beaten track.'
0:22:10 > 0:22:16Somewhere hidden behind this reed bed is an island.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19But because of these reeds, it looks so similar
0:22:19 > 0:22:22to everything else, you would never know it was there.
0:22:22 > 0:22:24And it's one of Norfolk's best-kept secrets.
0:22:26 > 0:22:28It's known as Heigham Holmes.
0:22:31 > 0:22:34Even from the air, it's hard to see amongst the narrow channels
0:22:34 > 0:22:39and tall reed beds, but these 500 acres are truly cut off,
0:22:39 > 0:22:43as getting onto this secret island is far from straightforward.
0:22:43 > 0:22:47Thankfully, local farmer John Stafford knows the way.
0:22:47 > 0:22:52- John, how are we doing, all right? - Not too bad, how are you? - I'm very good.
0:22:52 > 0:22:56I tell you what, I am very, very intrigued about this bridge here.
0:22:56 > 0:22:58- Yeah.- Is it a bridge, is that what you call it?
0:22:58 > 0:23:02The locals know it as Martham Ferry, but it actually is a floating bridge.
0:23:04 > 0:23:07- First we'll unlock it. - Yeah, so we're all padlocked.
0:23:09 > 0:23:13And then we pull...this chain here.
0:23:13 > 0:23:18- Right. So we just literally grab the chain and pull ourselves across? - Yes.
0:23:20 > 0:23:23- And it hinges...- In that corner. - ..from that point.
0:23:25 > 0:23:28'It's one of just 13 floating bridges in the country
0:23:28 > 0:23:32'and it's the only way onto this island.'
0:23:32 > 0:23:34It's a brilliant bit of kit, this.
0:23:34 > 0:23:36And how long have you been doing this for then,
0:23:36 > 0:23:40- how many years have you been coming across?- Oh...25 years.- 25 years?
0:23:42 > 0:23:45'There's one last trick to this unusual bridge.'
0:23:45 > 0:23:47Here we go.
0:23:47 > 0:23:52Here comes the tipping point. Gently does it...
0:23:52 > 0:23:53Brilliant.
0:23:53 > 0:23:58Absolutely superb. I tell you what, who needs modern technology
0:23:58 > 0:24:00when you've got something as brilliant as that?
0:24:00 > 0:24:03It's idiot-proof, isn't it?
0:24:04 > 0:24:08'And that's how you unlock the secret of Heigham Holmes.'
0:24:13 > 0:24:15This island was once private farmland,
0:24:15 > 0:24:18but since the National Trust bought it in 1987,
0:24:18 > 0:24:22it's open to visitors for just one day every September.
0:24:27 > 0:24:31For the rest of the year, Heigham Holmes is a wildlife refuge and pasture.
0:24:35 > 0:24:39'The only other visitor is the island's warden, Stephen Prowse.'
0:24:39 > 0:24:42Well, it's certainly a very quiet spot.
0:24:42 > 0:24:45People don't know it's here. I had a job finding it.
0:24:45 > 0:24:47Yes, you won't be alone. Many of the locals
0:24:47 > 0:24:50in the village up the road here, they had no idea it was here either
0:24:50 > 0:24:53when we first started having our annual opening day.
0:24:53 > 0:24:56So we manage it as a sanctuary.
0:24:56 > 0:24:59The Broads is perhaps one of the last wilderness areas in southern England.
0:24:59 > 0:25:04Heigham Holmes is probably one of the remotest parts of that. It's really rather special.
0:25:06 > 0:25:08Once a shallow hill rising out of the Fens,
0:25:08 > 0:25:12Heigham Holmes became cut off as the rivers rose.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16Over the years, its banks have been built up
0:25:16 > 0:25:18to stop the pastures from flooding.
0:25:18 > 0:25:22So now much of the island actually lies below sea level.
0:25:24 > 0:25:27And it does seem to arc a little bit, does it?
0:25:27 > 0:25:31Yes, that's right. When I say, "the upland", people laugh,
0:25:31 > 0:25:32but it is about a metre above sea level,
0:25:32 > 0:25:34but the whole site resembles a fried egg.
0:25:34 > 0:25:39You have the white, which is the low-lying area below river level - or sea level, if you like.
0:25:39 > 0:25:41Then you have the high level, which is the yoke,
0:25:41 > 0:25:44the yellow bit in the middle with the buildings on.
0:25:44 > 0:25:48'The open grassland and big skies are quintessentially Norfolk
0:25:48 > 0:25:53'but a hidden Norfolk, one that few people ever get to see.'
0:25:54 > 0:25:56'I've left the abbey of Bury St Edmunds
0:25:56 > 0:25:59'and headed north-east to the village of Flixton.
0:25:59 > 0:26:03'My destination is deep within the trees of Priory Wood.'
0:26:03 > 0:26:07In recent years, there's been plenty of controversy surrounding woodland.
0:26:07 > 0:26:09Who should own it, what should be done with it.
0:26:09 > 0:26:14But whichever side of the fence you sit on, there's one thing that cannot be denied.
0:26:14 > 0:26:17Woodland is a vital part of our landscape.
0:26:19 > 0:26:22Woods are used for recreation, walking and camping,
0:26:22 > 0:26:25for shelter and to provide us with raw materials.
0:26:25 > 0:26:30They're home to wildlife, store carbon and generate oxygen.
0:26:30 > 0:26:34Above all, they are magical, beautiful places.
0:26:34 > 0:26:37But what would it be like to own your own woodland?
0:26:37 > 0:26:39It's not just a nice idea,
0:26:39 > 0:26:42it's actually a reality for an increasing number of people.
0:26:42 > 0:26:46Somewhere among these trees is the owner of this woodland, Peter Forster.
0:26:50 > 0:26:55'Peter bought this wood a couple of years ago after he retired.'
0:26:55 > 0:26:59How on earth did you end up owning a bit of a wood?
0:26:59 > 0:27:02Well, I knew from a friend, who owns a patch of woodland in Kent,
0:27:02 > 0:27:05that it was possible to buy wood, small acres of wood.
0:27:05 > 0:27:07And this is only 3.5 acres.
0:27:07 > 0:27:12There are companies that buy areas of woodland and then sell them on
0:27:12 > 0:27:14to people such as myself.
0:27:14 > 0:27:16It is undoubtedly beautiful,
0:27:16 > 0:27:19and I can see why you'd want to spend time here, but...
0:27:19 > 0:27:23I was brought up on a farm, and you buy land that is of value.
0:27:23 > 0:27:25You buy land that you can grow crops on.
0:27:25 > 0:27:30I can't imagine you can grow much here. Why buy it?
0:27:30 > 0:27:34I like being out of doors, so it was a love of the outdoors.
0:27:34 > 0:27:39I like physical exercise involved in managing a wood, moving wood,
0:27:39 > 0:27:41cutting down trees with permission,
0:27:41 > 0:27:46supplying my home with wood for my wood-burning stoves.
0:27:46 > 0:27:48I want to learn about conservation
0:27:48 > 0:27:51and I would love to restore this woodland to some of the majesty
0:27:51 > 0:27:55it used to have, because it's declining at the moment.
0:27:58 > 0:28:02Woodland can set you back anything from £10,000 upwards,
0:28:02 > 0:28:05depending on the acreage and location.
0:28:05 > 0:28:07Anyone can buy it, but it's a good idea to get in touch
0:28:07 > 0:28:12with companies like the Woodland Trust or Natural England to understand
0:28:12 > 0:28:15more about caring for it.
0:28:15 > 0:28:18Does it worry you that bits of the countryside can be handed over
0:28:18 > 0:28:21to individuals? What if someone did come down here
0:28:21 > 0:28:24and have a barbecue every weekend and park a caravan up?
0:28:24 > 0:28:27There's quite a lot of responsibility that comes
0:28:27 > 0:28:28with owning a bit of wood.
0:28:28 > 0:28:33There is. We view ourselves as custodians. I know we own it, we bought it.
0:28:33 > 0:28:36But we are holding it, if you like, for the next generation.
0:28:36 > 0:28:41While one buys a piece of woodland like this, you have to sign
0:28:41 > 0:28:45a covenant with the company who sell it to you,
0:28:45 > 0:28:48that you say you won't cover it over in tarmac
0:28:48 > 0:28:52and use it as a car park, you won't put up a caravan site.
0:28:52 > 0:28:57'Peter has a five-year management plan for this ancient
0:28:57 > 0:29:00'broadleaved woodland as agreed with Natural England.
0:29:00 > 0:29:02'Part of this plan is to create a glade in the middle
0:29:02 > 0:29:05'of the wood by chopping down a few of the trees.
0:29:05 > 0:29:10'He's still drying out the log, so I'm giving him a hand stacking them.'
0:29:12 > 0:29:16How long did it take you to clear this glade then, Peter?
0:29:16 > 0:29:19I've been doing it for the last year
0:29:19 > 0:29:24and I've cleared about 10 trees.
0:29:24 > 0:29:30It created this area of about 30 metres by 10 metres,
0:29:30 > 0:29:34really to allow more light into the lower parts of the wood.
0:29:34 > 0:29:38I know it's only a year, but are you seeing much benefit?
0:29:38 > 0:29:41Before we had this glade, we'd never seen any butterflies in here,
0:29:41 > 0:29:44but this spring, we saw some butterflies,
0:29:44 > 0:29:47small white butterflies, and that was very exciting, because it showed
0:29:47 > 0:29:50that this intervention was having some benefit.
0:29:50 > 0:29:52There's more light.
0:29:52 > 0:29:54There's more light, so the butterflies were present.
0:29:54 > 0:29:57That must be really rewarding.
0:29:57 > 0:30:00It may seem a very small reward, but from my point of view,
0:30:00 > 0:30:03it was enormously rewarding for the amount of effort
0:30:03 > 0:30:05which it had taken to clear this wood.
0:30:05 > 0:30:09Why did you pick this particular bit of woodland, Peter?
0:30:09 > 0:30:11- Because it was breathtakingly beautiful.- Yeah.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14I knew within a very short time of entering the woodland
0:30:14 > 0:30:17that this was what I was looking for.
0:30:17 > 0:30:21I think anyone who bought it would buy it primarily
0:30:21 > 0:30:24out of love for the countryside, rather than for finance.
0:30:25 > 0:30:32There are about 100,000, 120,000 small woodland owners
0:30:32 > 0:30:37in the United Kingdom and they're doing a huge amount of work conservation.
0:30:37 > 0:30:41They're an unsung army of heroes, because they are planting trees,
0:30:41 > 0:30:45putting up bird boxes, digging ponds.
0:30:45 > 0:30:49They don't get any money for this, but they get enormous pleasure
0:30:49 > 0:30:52and they're improving the countryside.
0:31:03 > 0:31:04In all honesty,
0:31:04 > 0:31:08initially I was a bit concerned about handing over huge chunks
0:31:08 > 0:31:11of the countryside to individuals, but if the people buying woodland
0:31:11 > 0:31:15are half as passionate as Peter is, I think we're going to be all right.
0:31:15 > 0:31:20It's great news the butterflies have been spotted in Peter's wood
0:31:20 > 0:31:24and it was butterflies that brought Miranda Krestovnikoff to a special haven in Norfolk
0:31:24 > 0:31:27when she was on the trail of the elusive swallowtail.
0:31:28 > 0:31:32I'm on the hunt for five of Britain's most fascinating butterflies.
0:31:32 > 0:31:35But today is definitely my toughest challenge.
0:31:35 > 0:31:38I'm looking for the swallowtail.
0:31:38 > 0:31:45They're rare, elusive and they're completely unpredictable. Nightmare.
0:31:45 > 0:31:49But this area of the Norfolk Broads is their main stronghold,
0:31:49 > 0:31:51so I am in with a chance.
0:31:51 > 0:31:53To help me track them down, Matthew Oates,
0:31:53 > 0:31:56our butterfly expert, is on hand.
0:31:56 > 0:32:00Why is it that the swallowtails are found here especially?
0:32:00 > 0:32:04Well, it needs huge areas of marsh and swamp
0:32:04 > 0:32:07and also where a very special plant grows.
0:32:07 > 0:32:09What's the food plant they're looking for?
0:32:09 > 0:32:12It's a very strange plant called milk parsley, which only lives
0:32:12 > 0:32:17in this sort of place. And even then, it's not common.
0:32:19 > 0:32:23This plant is so crucial to the swallowtail's survival
0:32:23 > 0:32:26that it has to be carefully managed.
0:32:26 > 0:32:29Polish ponies have been brought in to graze the sedge,
0:32:29 > 0:32:32enabling the milk parsley plants to flourish
0:32:32 > 0:32:36and provide food for hungry swallowtail caterpillars.
0:32:40 > 0:32:44So the caterpillars are here, albeit rather tiny.
0:32:44 > 0:32:46I still haven't seen butterflies.
0:32:46 > 0:32:49I think it's time we get out on the water.
0:33:03 > 0:33:05- Into the real world.- Yeah.
0:33:10 > 0:33:12Our sightings are going to be momentary.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15Keep your eyes peeled, then.
0:33:20 > 0:33:23'After a couple of hours of searching out on the water,
0:33:23 > 0:33:27'I was beginning to wonder if we'd ever see a swallowtail.
0:33:27 > 0:33:29'But our luck was about to change.'
0:33:29 > 0:33:32One has just gone over. Yes!
0:33:32 > 0:33:35Oh, God. Yes!
0:33:36 > 0:33:41- Good boy, good boy, good boy. - Look at that.
0:33:41 > 0:33:44- Oh, yes, yes, yes! - Oh, that has made my day now.
0:33:44 > 0:33:46I really thought we weren't going to see one.
0:33:46 > 0:33:49'That first glimpse was great, but Matthew and I want to see
0:33:49 > 0:33:52'if we can get an even closer look.'
0:33:54 > 0:33:55To the right of the kit.
0:33:55 > 0:33:58To the right, coming towards us.
0:33:58 > 0:34:03- Coming right into the camera now. - Bother.
0:34:03 > 0:34:06- Oh, he's going to land on the... - No, he's not.
0:34:06 > 0:34:10He's not going to land anywhere. He's skittish.
0:34:10 > 0:34:13He's going to come and see us.
0:34:13 > 0:34:15He's up again, coming towards us.
0:34:15 > 0:34:18He's going to come right between us...now.
0:34:18 > 0:34:20There he goes. Yes!
0:34:21 > 0:34:23- Amazing!- Look at that.
0:34:23 > 0:34:27I've never been so excited to see a butterfly in my life, actually.
0:34:27 > 0:34:29There has been this build-up, and the fact we weren't going to see it.
0:34:29 > 0:34:34This is a tropical experience, this butterfly.
0:34:34 > 0:34:36Fantastic.
0:34:36 > 0:34:38So how old would he be, because he looks quite battered?
0:34:38 > 0:34:41My guess is he's a couple of weeks old.
0:34:41 > 0:34:45We don't rightly know how long they live for, maybe two to three weeks.
0:34:45 > 0:34:47Everything depends upon the weather.
0:34:47 > 0:34:50- His right wing is pretty much intact.- Yes.
0:34:50 > 0:34:54There's a little bit of the tail there, which is why they've got this name, the swallowtail,
0:34:54 > 0:34:58because of the beautiful tails which do look exactly like a swallow,
0:34:58 > 0:35:00apart from the colourings of the rest of the body.
0:35:00 > 0:35:03He's lost a lot of his colourings, a lot of his blue.
0:35:03 > 0:35:06- Is that just through...- age. He's an old boy, let's be honest.
0:35:06 > 0:35:10- Two weeks is an old boy. - He's still utterly beautiful.
0:35:11 > 0:35:14When you get a magic moment like this,
0:35:14 > 0:35:17it really does reach deep into the soul.
0:35:17 > 0:35:23- We really are immensely fortunate. It's party time for us.- Great stuff.
0:35:26 > 0:35:30Well, I have to say, I really had my doubts when we started off here.
0:35:30 > 0:35:33Things were not looking good, but those hours of searching
0:35:33 > 0:35:37and waiting have really paid off. We got some fantastic and really,
0:35:37 > 0:35:42really close-up views of Britain's largest and most secretive butterfly.
0:35:45 > 0:35:47I've driven down the coast
0:35:47 > 0:35:49to the pretty waterside village
0:35:49 > 0:35:51of Orford in search of some food.
0:35:51 > 0:35:54With Suffolk's range of landscapes comes a delicious variety
0:35:54 > 0:35:57of food produce, and lots of the food and drink
0:35:57 > 0:36:01from Suffolk can be followed from source to plate.
0:36:01 > 0:36:05There's nothing better than knowing exactly where your food comes from.
0:36:06 > 0:36:10'When Polly Robinson moved to Suffolk a few years ago,
0:36:10 > 0:36:13'she wanted to make the most of the amazing wealth of produce
0:36:13 > 0:36:18'around her, so she now takes people on food safari tours.
0:36:18 > 0:36:22'Today, she wants to show me some of the seafood available right here
0:36:22 > 0:36:25'on her doorstep and later the best ways to eat it.'
0:36:28 > 0:36:29Are you OK?
0:36:34 > 0:36:38'We're boarding the Regardless for a trip on the River Or with skipper Peter.'
0:36:40 > 0:36:43Polly, what has Suffolk got to offer in terms of food?
0:36:43 > 0:36:48Suffolk has traditionally been the breadbasket of England, hasn't it?
0:36:48 > 0:36:50There's a lot of big arable farms here.
0:36:50 > 0:36:54There are also a lot of farms diversifying
0:36:54 > 0:36:55and doing new foodie things.
0:36:55 > 0:36:59There's also great fish, great beer, we've got lots of breweries.
0:36:59 > 0:37:03Pork is another thing that this area is famous for.
0:37:03 > 0:37:06And there's a wealth of small businesses.
0:37:06 > 0:37:10I think there's an absence of big supermarkets in quite a wide area,
0:37:10 > 0:37:14which has meant that small, independent retailers have thrived.
0:37:14 > 0:37:17That has given an opportunity to small food producers as well
0:37:17 > 0:37:19to sell their stuff direct.
0:37:19 > 0:37:24We're heading out to the North Sea, but where exactly are we? What's this river?
0:37:24 > 0:37:26This is both the Alde and the Ore.
0:37:26 > 0:37:30The Alde comes into the River Ore at Orford, where we are now.
0:37:30 > 0:37:33And it goes out, down to the sea, down towards Felixstowe.
0:37:33 > 0:37:37So this is an unusual river. The salt content is really high.
0:37:37 > 0:37:39What does that mean in terms of the fish?
0:37:40 > 0:37:44It means that things you'd not normally find in a river here,
0:37:44 > 0:37:47so we get lobsters, which we'll hopefully find today,
0:37:47 > 0:37:51different kinds of crab, starfish and other shellfish.
0:37:53 > 0:37:56'Peter Merrion is just one of the local fishermen
0:37:56 > 0:37:59'proud to share his trade.
0:37:59 > 0:38:03'Today we're hoping to catch lobster in the pots that he has out here
0:38:03 > 0:38:05'on the river, and I'm keen to get stuck in.'
0:38:05 > 0:38:08You look as if you're ready to pull that pot up yourself?
0:38:08 > 0:38:10- I'm going to give it a go. - Do you want a hand?
0:38:10 > 0:38:13I probably will do. It's not too bad.
0:38:13 > 0:38:15If it gets too tiring, I'll give you a hand.
0:38:15 > 0:38:17How many lobster pots do you have out here?
0:38:17 > 0:38:19We have about 12 lobster pots.
0:38:19 > 0:38:23- Do you always pull up lobsters in them?- Not every time.
0:38:23 > 0:38:28You're not lucky every time, but on average, we get about three or four.
0:38:28 > 0:38:32- How long is this rope? - It's a very deep river for its size.
0:38:35 > 0:38:37- Oh.- That's it.
0:38:37 > 0:38:39Oh, what?!
0:38:39 > 0:38:42- These ones are shore crabs.- OK.
0:38:44 > 0:38:47So before we put the lobster pot back in, we need to put bait in it.
0:38:47 > 0:38:52We've got a piece of mullet head that we caught earlier. Nothing is wasted.
0:38:52 > 0:38:57- Put the head in.- So that's brilliant bait for a lobster.
0:38:57 > 0:38:59- It is good bait, yeah.- OK.
0:38:59 > 0:39:03The lobster crawls in there to eat that and then he gets stuck inside.
0:39:03 > 0:39:08Instead of coming back out the way it came in, it moves from this chamber into that chamber,
0:39:08 > 0:39:11- and that's where it gets caught.- OK.
0:39:11 > 0:39:13- You can put it in.- All right.
0:39:15 > 0:39:19Make sure the ropes are no where near your feet.
0:39:19 > 0:39:21- Yeah.- One, two, three, go.
0:39:23 > 0:39:26'There are no lobsters in pot number two either.
0:39:26 > 0:39:30'Apparently, summer is the best time of year to catch them,
0:39:30 > 0:39:34'and in the 20 years that Peter has been fishing this river,
0:39:34 > 0:39:36'he reckons the stocks have stayed pretty healthy.
0:39:36 > 0:39:38'So fingers crossed for pot number three.'
0:39:38 > 0:39:39We're there.
0:39:39 > 0:39:41Oh, look at that!
0:39:43 > 0:39:45We've got one. We've got three!
0:39:45 > 0:39:48Third time lucky, three in a pot.
0:39:48 > 0:39:50- How about that?- Oh, yes!
0:39:53 > 0:39:56When you catch lobsters in a pot,
0:39:56 > 0:39:59if you've got one lobster in there, it encourages more into the pot.
0:39:59 > 0:40:03Is there a limit on how many you can catch in a year?
0:40:03 > 0:40:06No, there's not a limit, you can catch as many as you like.
0:40:06 > 0:40:10- As long as they're within a certain size, you can keep them.- OK.
0:40:10 > 0:40:14And the size is normally 87mm from the eye socket
0:40:14 > 0:40:16to the back of the shell.
0:40:16 > 0:40:19- Any smaller, they go back in? - They go back in, yeah.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22I think these are all restaurant size, so they're OK.
0:40:22 > 0:40:26The lobsters are kept alive until they arrive at a restaurant.
0:40:26 > 0:40:29We'll be taking my three back to Orford,
0:40:29 > 0:40:32as we continue to follow their journey to the plate.
0:40:32 > 0:40:36OK, come on then, little fella. Off to the kitchen with you.
0:40:36 > 0:40:39Thank you, Peter - I really enjoyed that. Success.
0:40:40 > 0:40:43'Polly has another great seafood treat for me to see -
0:40:43 > 0:40:46'the oysters on the beds of the estuary.
0:40:46 > 0:40:50'Bill Pinney and his family have been working this water for years,
0:40:50 > 0:40:53'with the help of his team of dredgers.'
0:40:53 > 0:40:57- Oh, wow.- Look at those. - Some of these are huge.
0:40:59 > 0:41:03That's a thick-shelled rock oyster.
0:41:03 > 0:41:06And that's a flat-shelled oyster.
0:41:06 > 0:41:10And that is the native oyster from this country -
0:41:10 > 0:41:13it's what's been in these waters for the last 2,000 years.
0:41:13 > 0:41:16So why are these doing so well? There's loads of those.
0:41:18 > 0:41:21These grow very quickly, they're very hardy.
0:41:21 > 0:41:22These are exactly the opposite.
0:41:22 > 0:41:25Whereas this one takes about three years to mature,
0:41:25 > 0:41:29- this one takes about five or six. That's only a baby one, really.- OK.
0:41:29 > 0:41:33- Would you say these are taking over in England?- Very much so, yeah.
0:41:33 > 0:41:37There are still some natives, but they are extremely rare now.
0:41:37 > 0:41:41- Does it affect what they taste like, their age?- No, not at all.
0:41:41 > 0:41:44Except, obviously it's a bit too much for a mouthful.
0:41:44 > 0:41:48We'd use the bigger ones for soup or cooking or something like that.
0:41:48 > 0:41:51- I can't see any villages or towns near here.- No.
0:41:51 > 0:41:54- That must be good for the oysters. - Fantastic, yes.
0:41:54 > 0:41:57We've got no sewage coming into the water and no pollution,
0:41:57 > 0:42:00so we've got lovely pure water. It makes a huge difference.
0:42:00 > 0:42:03Do oysters taste different around the country?
0:42:03 > 0:42:06Everywhere you go. Every single site is different, yes.
0:42:06 > 0:42:09Even just a couple of miles away it'll be completely different.
0:42:09 > 0:42:11Yeah. It's all to do with the local conditions.
0:42:11 > 0:42:13Once the oysters are brought in,
0:42:13 > 0:42:15they're taken to the tanks for cleaning.
0:42:15 > 0:42:18Water passes through a UV light
0:42:18 > 0:42:22and circulates around the oysters for two days to kill off any nasties.
0:42:22 > 0:42:25Some of them will end up at Bill's restaurant in Orford,
0:42:25 > 0:42:28where I'm heading to next.
0:42:28 > 0:42:31I'm genuinely excited about the seafood we've caught this morning.
0:42:31 > 0:42:35I think you forget what amazing stock we have on our very doorstep.
0:42:35 > 0:42:37You know what makes it even more special?
0:42:37 > 0:42:40Everything has been caught within three miles
0:42:40 > 0:42:41of where I started in Orford.
0:42:43 > 0:42:46Soon I'll be tasting the seafood we've caught.
0:42:46 > 0:42:48But first, when Matt Baker came to Suffolk,
0:42:48 > 0:42:50he met some entirely different animals.
0:42:53 > 0:42:54Come on!
0:42:54 > 0:42:56'Paul Rilott has kept alpacas for five years
0:42:56 > 0:42:59'and is now responsible for a prize-winning herd of 120.'
0:42:59 > 0:43:03- I think they're something else. - We think so, but we're biased!
0:43:03 > 0:43:05Yeah, we really like them.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08With the weather being wet like this, we like to make sure
0:43:08 > 0:43:12they've got plenty of fuel in the tank to keep them warm.
0:43:12 > 0:43:13How did you end up with them here in Suffolk?
0:43:13 > 0:43:17Well, about five years ago, I was made redundant
0:43:17 > 0:43:19from a plant-breeding business.
0:43:19 > 0:43:22We went over to Peru and came across them while up there.
0:43:22 > 0:43:24Jude, my wife, said, "Couldn't we do that?"
0:43:24 > 0:43:28So we started off with just a few and the following year, we managed
0:43:28 > 0:43:32to bring in another 18 Peruvians and a couple from Australia.
0:43:32 > 0:43:34The key was to get the right animals, and that's exactly
0:43:34 > 0:43:35what we were all about.
0:43:35 > 0:43:39They're just packed with character. I mean, their faces!
0:43:39 > 0:43:43- I absolutely love 'em. Big eyes.- The big eyes look right into your soul.
0:43:43 > 0:43:45You just got to love 'em.
0:43:45 > 0:43:48One thing about them coming here is they don't get as much
0:43:48 > 0:43:51vitamin D as they should do from the sunlight,
0:43:51 > 0:43:52so we want to give the cria in particular
0:43:52 > 0:43:55a vitamin boost to make sure they don't get rickets.
0:43:55 > 0:43:57- Talking about the cria, that's the young?- Yep.
0:43:57 > 0:44:00OK, firstly, can I introduce you to Viki?
0:44:00 > 0:44:03- Hiya. - Viki looks after the herd for me.
0:44:03 > 0:44:06As far as I'm concerned, every farm should have a Viki.
0:44:06 > 0:44:09She is like a walking herd book, she knows all of these animals,
0:44:09 > 0:44:13all their names, everything we need to know about them, she'll tell you.
0:44:13 > 0:44:16- Hang on, all their names?- Yeah. - Every single one has a name?
0:44:16 > 0:44:18- Yes, they do.- Really?
0:44:18 > 0:44:21All our white females, for instance, they're named after Bond girls.
0:44:21 > 0:44:27We've got a Domino, Tatiana, an Honor, Miss Moneypenny, to name but a few.
0:44:27 > 0:44:29Come on, girls.
0:44:29 > 0:44:33- A mouthful of vitamins.- Mouthful of vitamins. Good boy, Scratchy.
0:44:33 > 0:44:34Steady, steady.
0:44:36 > 0:44:40- Oh! Did you get it? Mmm, good boy!- Next one.
0:44:42 > 0:44:46'There's approximately 20,000 alpacas in the UK, in 800 herds.
0:44:46 > 0:44:50'This may sound a lot, but when you compare it to sheep,
0:44:50 > 0:44:54'of which there's about 32 million, this is farming on a small scale.'
0:44:54 > 0:44:56- There you are.- Well done!
0:44:58 > 0:45:00Alpacas seem to kind of communicate on a different level.
0:45:00 > 0:45:03- They're really intuitive with their young.- They are.
0:45:03 > 0:45:06They only give birth when it's nice weather,
0:45:06 > 0:45:09so if it's raining, she won't bother. If it's cold, she won't bother,
0:45:09 > 0:45:12she'll hang on till the next day or the next week.
0:45:12 > 0:45:14She'll only give birth between 8am and 2pm.
0:45:14 > 0:45:17So if it gets to two o'clock and she hasn't had her babe,
0:45:17 > 0:45:19she'll hold on till the next day.
0:45:19 > 0:45:23That's because the sun's at the highest point in the sky then
0:45:23 > 0:45:25and it gives the babe its best chance
0:45:25 > 0:45:28to have a feed and to be up and about before dusk.
0:45:28 > 0:45:31They've got this lovely noise, like "Oooh!"
0:45:31 > 0:45:33This little one - very noisy, aren't you, Pen?
0:45:33 > 0:45:35- How is Miss Moneypenny looking? - Looking good.
0:45:35 > 0:45:38'Alpacas come in 22 different colours,
0:45:38 > 0:45:40'and the fleece is in demand for clothing.'
0:45:40 > 0:45:43The first thing you'll notice is it's been a wet day,
0:45:43 > 0:45:45but when you open it up, how dry it is in there.
0:45:45 > 0:45:48- That just shines, yeah?- Yeah.
0:45:48 > 0:45:51This is worth £100 a kilo processed against a sheep's fleece.
0:45:51 > 0:45:54- Is it really? £100 a kilo?- Yeah.
0:45:54 > 0:45:57- Up against a sheep fleece, which is what, less than a pound?- Exactly.
0:45:57 > 0:45:58Big difference.
0:45:58 > 0:46:03Not only that, but it's five times harder-wearing than sheep's wool,
0:46:03 > 0:46:06so you make yourself a proper suit out of alpaca,
0:46:06 > 0:46:08it'll last you a lifetime.
0:46:08 > 0:46:12Come, boys! In you go, my friends.
0:46:12 > 0:46:14'Now it's time to look at the big boys,
0:46:14 > 0:46:16'who Paul constantly monitors, as they're his best studs,
0:46:16 > 0:46:19'one of them being the East Anglian champion.'
0:46:19 > 0:46:22As a champion, what is he worth?
0:46:22 > 0:46:26If you were to offer me somewhere between £20-25,000 today,
0:46:26 > 0:46:28I might take it.
0:46:28 > 0:46:32- 25 grand, really?- Yeah. Some of the top whites could be double that.
0:46:32 > 0:46:34In the States, their supreme champions
0:46:34 > 0:46:36will fetch up to half a million.
0:46:36 > 0:46:38- Never!- Absolutely.
0:46:38 > 0:46:42'Paul can earn £1,500 a time putting these boys out to stud.
0:46:42 > 0:46:47'Not all alpacas cost 25 grand. You can pick one up for around £500.
0:46:47 > 0:46:50'Alpacas are not just kept for their wool, though.
0:46:50 > 0:46:51'Their protective instinct is the reason
0:46:51 > 0:46:54'Sue Sharott keeps three to guard her chickens.'
0:46:54 > 0:46:57When did you come across the alpacas?
0:46:57 > 0:47:01My husband and children went out to buy some more chickens for me
0:47:01 > 0:47:04and came back deciding that we were going to have alpacas instead!
0:47:04 > 0:47:07HE LAUGHS
0:47:07 > 0:47:10- And this is Emma and Sam here?- This is Emma and Sam.- Lovely to see you.
0:47:10 > 0:47:13How are you? What is it like having alpacas in your garden?
0:47:13 > 0:47:15It's a bit unusual.
0:47:15 > 0:47:17We got them primarily
0:47:17 > 0:47:21because we were told that they would stop the foxes getting the chickens.
0:47:21 > 0:47:24- And do they? - Yes, we haven't lost any yet.
0:47:24 > 0:47:26- Fingers crossed it keeps going. - Yes, exactly.
0:47:26 > 0:47:31- Quite expensive guard dogs. - They are expensive guard dogs.
0:47:31 > 0:47:35I know Prince Charles has alpacas to guard his lambs, so obviously
0:47:35 > 0:47:38it's the up-and-coming animal to have as a guard dog, I suppose.
0:47:38 > 0:47:39Definitely.
0:47:39 > 0:47:41'If it's good enough for Prince Charles,
0:47:41 > 0:47:44'it's good enough for me, and it's planted a seed in my mind
0:47:44 > 0:47:48'to buy a couple of these fantastic animals to guard our family flock.'
0:47:48 > 0:47:51They really are charming animals,
0:47:51 > 0:47:53and it's lovely to see fields full of them.
0:47:56 > 0:48:00I'm on my way into Orford village, where local food lover
0:48:00 > 0:48:03Polly Robinson has one last stop on our gastronomic tour of the area -
0:48:03 > 0:48:06Bill Pinney's restaurant.
0:48:06 > 0:48:09It's been here in Orford since the 1960s
0:48:09 > 0:48:11when the Pinney family opened it.
0:48:11 > 0:48:16And as I saw earlier, some of the produce comes straight here
0:48:16 > 0:48:19from the Pinney's very own oyster beds.
0:48:20 > 0:48:23I'll be heading in there to prepare some of the food I caught earlier,
0:48:23 > 0:48:26but first here's the Country Tracks weather for the week ahead.
0:50:50 > 0:50:57.
0:51:06 > 0:51:08Today I'm on a journey through East Anglia.
0:51:08 > 0:51:10I began on a farm in Rede,
0:51:10 > 0:51:14where I met some beautiful Suffolk Punch horses.
0:51:14 > 0:51:17From there, it was a short trip to Bury St Edmunds,
0:51:17 > 0:51:22where I learned about the origins of the Magna Carta.
0:51:22 > 0:51:23At my next stop, Flixton,
0:51:23 > 0:51:27I explored the possibilities of owning a little bit of woodland.
0:51:29 > 0:51:32And today my journey ends here in Orford,
0:51:32 > 0:51:36where I'm about to taste oysters for the very first time.
0:51:37 > 0:51:40My foodie guide, Polly Robinson, has brought me
0:51:40 > 0:51:43to Bill Pinney's restaurant for a lesson in seafood preparation.
0:51:43 > 0:51:48Honestly, I've never eaten an oyster, I've never opened one, so...
0:51:48 > 0:51:50- Right, well.- I'm a total novice.
0:51:50 > 0:51:53There's a deep shell - that's the bottom and the top -
0:51:53 > 0:51:55and at the end, you have a hinge.
0:51:55 > 0:51:58- What we're going to do is put the knife in through the hinge.- OK.
0:51:58 > 0:52:01Just press it in until you've broken the hinge
0:52:01 > 0:52:04and then you just flick the top shell open.
0:52:04 > 0:52:08Then give your blade a little wipe.
0:52:08 > 0:52:11- Move it along the top shell.- Oh, wow!
0:52:11 > 0:52:17And you cut the muscle, the adductor muscle, on the top of the oyster.
0:52:17 > 0:52:20- That looks so clean. - It's a lovely plump oyster.
0:52:20 > 0:52:25And then you...just cut the oyster underneath, and it's ready to eat.
0:52:25 > 0:52:27You serve it in the shell?
0:52:27 > 0:52:28Served in the shell.
0:52:28 > 0:52:32- What makes a good oyster, then?- The really important thing is the meat.
0:52:32 > 0:52:35You can see you have a very nice plump oyster here.
0:52:35 > 0:52:38Sometimes when they've spawned or they are out of condition,
0:52:38 > 0:52:42they can be rather green and transparent.
0:52:42 > 0:52:46But that one you see there is in absolutely prime condition.
0:52:46 > 0:52:48- Can I have a go at opening one, then?- You can.
0:52:48 > 0:52:51- You have to be very careful not to cut your hands.- OK.
0:52:51 > 0:52:52You need special little knife?
0:52:52 > 0:52:55- I think you ought to put gloves on really.- Oh.
0:52:57 > 0:53:00- We don't want blood on the screen. - No.
0:53:00 > 0:53:04- That would put people off oysters full stop.- Yes. Right.- Right.
0:53:04 > 0:53:06Now, you've got to press it in there.
0:53:06 > 0:53:09And you've got to hold that with your left hand,
0:53:09 > 0:53:11press that in quite firmly and wiggle it
0:53:11 > 0:53:15until you feel you've broken through.
0:53:15 > 0:53:17I can see why you don't have much faith in me.
0:53:17 > 0:53:18Keep going. Keep going.
0:53:18 > 0:53:21- You're through, yes, that's good. - OK, yes.
0:53:21 > 0:53:23Now push it in a bit further.
0:53:23 > 0:53:27Right. Little bit further. Now give the knife a turn, a twist.
0:53:29 > 0:53:32Go on, be a little firm with it.
0:53:32 > 0:53:34That will crack open then.
0:53:34 > 0:53:36Leave your knife in.
0:53:36 > 0:53:39Lift it up, wedge it open.
0:53:39 > 0:53:42Now run this knife along the top of the oyster -
0:53:42 > 0:53:43be careful along the top of the shell,
0:53:43 > 0:53:46or you'll cut some of the meat away.
0:53:46 > 0:53:48Just run it along there. That's it.
0:53:48 > 0:53:51- There we go.- That's pretty good.
0:53:51 > 0:53:53Yes, very good.
0:53:53 > 0:53:56How on earth do you throw that back in one gulp?
0:53:56 > 0:53:59- That's a big oyster, isn't it?- Is it? Well, it is a big oyster, yes.
0:53:59 > 0:54:02- I haven't eaten oyster for years. - Really?
0:54:02 > 0:54:04You just don't sometimes, do you?
0:54:08 > 0:54:11- Mm.- Nice?- Lovely, very nice.
0:54:11 > 0:54:15Haven't eaten one for years, but would you eat another one tomorrow?
0:54:15 > 0:54:18- Yes, I would, yes. Yourself? - I've got to try it, haven't I?
0:54:18 > 0:54:21When in Rome.
0:54:21 > 0:54:22Or in Orford.
0:54:24 > 0:54:27- Do I chew it or just throw it back? - Chew it.
0:54:42 > 0:54:47- Salty.- Yes. Sweet but salty? - Certainly an acquired taste.- Yes!
0:54:49 > 0:54:51Well done.
0:54:53 > 0:54:56'I didn't want to be rude, but oysters are definitely not for me.
0:54:56 > 0:55:01'Hopefully the lobsters will be a bit more to my taste.'
0:55:01 > 0:55:04These are the lobster we caught earlier today
0:55:04 > 0:55:07and they look so dramatically different.
0:55:07 > 0:55:09A few minutes in boiling water
0:55:09 > 0:55:11and they go from navy blue to bright pink.
0:55:11 > 0:55:13- These were just plunged in boiling water?- Yes.
0:55:13 > 0:55:16Just brought up to the boil for about 12 minutes.
0:55:16 > 0:55:20- 12 minutes and then they're cooked inside?- They're ready to eat, yes.
0:55:20 > 0:55:22We're not going to eat these chaps just yet,
0:55:22 > 0:55:27because, although I'm proud of them, they're tiny compared to...
0:55:28 > 0:55:32Duh, duh, duh-da-a-a-a!
0:55:32 > 0:55:35Look at those beasts.
0:55:37 > 0:55:42- Now, that is a lobster isn't it? - It is, yes.
0:55:42 > 0:55:45'And those beasts are actually caught out at sea.
0:55:45 > 0:55:48'They're much bigger than the ones we brought back from the river.
0:55:48 > 0:55:52'Because of their size, they're easier to prepare.
0:55:52 > 0:55:55'After cutting down the centre of the underside of the lobster,
0:55:55 > 0:55:59'there's the head meat, the more sought-after tail meat,
0:55:59 > 0:56:01'and the best bit - out comes the hammer
0:56:01 > 0:56:05'to crush the shell and reveal the tasty claw meat.'
0:56:05 > 0:56:09- That's it, and again.- I've never eaten lobster ever.- Haven't you?- No.
0:56:09 > 0:56:11See if you prefer it to oysters.
0:56:13 > 0:56:15Quite a brave chunk I'm going for.
0:56:18 > 0:56:20It's definitely fishier.
0:56:20 > 0:56:25I have to say lobster is definitely above oyster for me.
0:56:25 > 0:56:27Fair enough.
0:56:28 > 0:56:33'It's a great experience to follow food directly from sea to plate,
0:56:33 > 0:56:36'even if the oysters were a bit hard to swallow.'
0:56:36 > 0:56:39You couldn't get more source to plate than this,
0:56:39 > 0:56:41we caught the lobster, it's on our plate.
0:56:41 > 0:56:45But why is it important that people know about that journey?
0:56:45 > 0:56:47I think it's so disconnected now
0:56:47 > 0:56:50when we buy food in the supermarket or eat it in a restaurant.
0:56:50 > 0:56:52We have no idea where it's come from.
0:56:52 > 0:56:56Doing something like we've done today just really reconnecting it
0:56:56 > 0:57:00and experiencing what the fishermen go through, seeing that side of it.
0:57:00 > 0:57:02Then following through every stage.
0:57:02 > 0:57:04And I think it tastes so much better.
0:57:04 > 0:57:06I was satisfied with my lobster
0:57:06 > 0:57:09until I saw the size of the ones Bill showed me,
0:57:09 > 0:57:12and then he told me they can grow up to 50 years old.
0:57:12 > 0:57:17- So, sorry, buddy, you're just a baby.- I'm sure he'll still taste good.
0:57:17 > 0:57:20This has been a rewarding day,
0:57:20 > 0:57:23but it's also been a reminder of the hard work
0:57:23 > 0:57:27that fishermen like Peter do every day to put food on our plates.
0:57:29 > 0:57:32I knew I'd have a good time in Suffolk, because I got to come here
0:57:32 > 0:57:35and enjoy some of the best the county has to offer.
0:57:35 > 0:57:39I've learnt about the plight of Suffolk Punch horses,
0:57:39 > 0:57:43heard tales of secret meetings that paved the way for the Magna Carta,
0:57:43 > 0:57:47I've discovered the benefits of woodland ownership and,
0:57:47 > 0:57:52ultimately, I've developed a taste for some of Suffolk's specialities.
0:57:58 > 0:58:01Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:58:01 > 0:58:04E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk